

OAD, 



Wh 



W 



mpobello, 

AD LAKES, 



PORTLAND, BANGOR, 

ST. JOHN, HALIFAX, 

And all parts of 

MAINE & EASTERN PROVINCES. 

For sixty miles from Boston the line follows the Atlantic Shore, touching 
en route the well-known summer resorts, Lynn, Nahant, Swampscott, 
Salem, Marblehead, Beverly, Manchester-by-the-Sea, Magnolia, Glouces- 
ter, Rockport, Pigeon Cove, Newburyport, Hampton Beach, Eye Beach, 
Portsmouth, York, Isles of Shoals, and the Wentworth. 

Pullman Parlor or Sleeping Cars on All Through Trains. 

Seats or Berths reserved by Mail or Telegrai)h. 

Through Tickets are sold at all principal ticket-offices in New York, 

Philadelphia, Baltimore, Washington. &c. 

BOSTON CITY TICKET-OFFICE, 306 WASHINGTON ST. 

(Next door to Old South Church.) 

DEPOT ON CAUSEWAY STREET. 

Books giving Excursion Routes, Maps, Hotel Lists, &c., will be mailed 
free on application to 

L,UCIUS TUTTI.E, General Passenger Agent, 

BOSTOlSr, 3S^-A.SS- 

G. E. B. JACKSON, President. PAYSON TUCKER, General Manager. 



TRAVELLERS, 

Whether for Business or Pleasure, will find this the 

MOST DESIRABLE ROUTE 

Between 

BOSTOlSr 

And 

St. John, Halifax, Cape Breton, 

PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND, 

Or any part of the 

MARITIME PROVINCES. 

Special Attention is being paid to forming a Through Line between 
Boston and the Provinces, which shall supply the 

MAXIMUM OF COMFORT AND SAFETY 

And consume the 
MINIMUM OF TIME AND MONEY. 

With these ends in view, new trains have been adiied for the Summer of 
1883, by which passengers, leaving Boston at 12.30, noon, reach St. John the 
following morning, and Halifax the following evening; or, leaving Boston 
at 7.00 p. M., arrival is made at St. John the next afternoon, and Halifax 
the second morning. 

West-bound passengers leaving Halifax in the evening, reach St. John 
at 6.00 A, M. , connecting there with the 7.00 A. M. train, 

REACHING BOSTON AT 10.00 P. M. THE SAME DAY ; 

or, leaving Halifax in the morning and St. John in the evening, passengers 
reach Boston the following day at 6 30 A. M. 

Time tables giving latest information vyill be mailed free at any time upon 
application. 



Boston and Maine Railroad. 

THE GREAT 

SEA-SHORE ROUTE 

FROM 

BOSTON" 

TO 

PORTLAND. BANBOR, ST. JOHN & HALIFAX. 

Also the Direct Koute to 

WELLS, KENNEBUNK, OLD ORCHARD, &SGARBORO 

The Only Line running in Direct Connection with Steamers running the 

ENTIRE LENGTH OF LAKE WINNIPISEOGEE. 

This line makes Direct Connections with the Maine Central, Grand Trunk, 
and Portland & Ogdensburg Railroads at Portland, and with the Portland, 
Bangor, & Machias, and International Steamboat Lines ; and thus afifordti 

Tlie Most Direct Xjine 

to the 

WHITE MOUNTAINS, SEBAG-G LAKE, 

MOUNT DESERT, 

Oampobello, Machias, Jonesport, Lamoine, 

and the 

RANGELEY and MOOSEHEAD LAKES. 

PARI.OR CARS ON AliL TRAINS. 

Trains leave Boston for Portland at 9 a.m., 12.30, 3.30, and 7 p.m. 

BOSTON CITY OFFICE, 280 WASHINGTON STREET. 

General Offices in Station in Haymarket Sq., Boston. 

For Information and Circulars apply to 
D. J. FLANDERS, M. L. WILLIAMS. 

Gen. Ticket Agent, Boston, Ticket Agent, Portland, 

F, D. GouBLEY, Travelling Agent. 

Or to any of the Ticket Offices on the Line. 

JAMES T. FURBER, Gen. Supt. 



5 



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\t 



THE 



MARITIME PROVINCES: 



HANDBOOK FOR TRAVELLERS. 



A GUIDE TO 



THE CHIEF CITIES, COASTS, AND ISLANDS OP THE MARITIME PEOT- 

INCES OF CANADA, AND TO THEIR SCENERY AMD HISTORIC 

ATTRACTIONS ; WITH THE GULF AND RIVER OF ST. 

LAWRENCE TO QUEBEC AND MONTREAL; 

ALSO, NEWFOUNDLAND AND THE 

LABRADOR COAST. 

With Four Maps and Four Plans, 

THIRD .EDITION. REVISED AND ENLARGED. 




B O S T ON : 

JAMES R. OSGOOD AND COMPANY, 

1883. 



1- 



f 



1 



Copyright 1875 aio) 1883, 
BY JAMES R. OSGOOD & CO. 



do 






Y^ 



Univeksity Press: 
JOHN Wilson and Son, Cambridge. 



PREFACE. 



The chief object of the Handbook to the Maritime Provinces 
is to supply the place of a guide in a land where professional 
guides cannot be found, and to assist the traveller in gaining 
the greatest possible amount of pleasure and information while 
passing through the most interesting portions of Eastern British 
America. The St. Lawrence Provinces have been hitherto casu- 
ally treated in books which cover wider sections of country (the 
best of which have long been out of print), and the Atlantic 
Provinces have as yet received but little attention of this kind. 
The present guide-book is the first which has been devoted to 
their treatment in a combined form and according to the most 
approved principles of the European works of similar purpose 
and character. It also includes descriptions of the remote and 
interesting coasts of Newfoundland and Labrador, which have 
never before been mentioned in works of this character. The 
Handbook is designed to enable travellers to visit any or all 
of the notable places in the Maritime Provinces, with economy 
of money, time, and temper, by giving lists of the hotels with 
their prices, descriptions of the various routes by land and water, 
and maps and plans of the principal cities. The letter-press 
contains epitomes of the histories of the cities and the ancient 
settlements along the coast, statements of the principal scenic 
attractions, descriptions of the art and architecture of the cities, 
and statistics of the chief industries of the included Provinces. 
The brilliant and picturesque records and traditions of the early 
French and Scottish colonies, and the heroic exploits of 4Jae 
Jesuit missionaries, have received special attention in connection 
with the localities made famous in those remote days ; and the 
remarkable legends and mythology of the Micmac Indians are 



iv PREFACE. 

incorporated witli tlie accounts of the places made classic "by 
them. The naval and military operations of the wars which 
centred on Port Royal, Louisbourg, and Quebec have been con- 
densed from the best authorities, and the mournful events which 
are commemorated in " Evangeline " are herein analyzed and 
recorded. The noble coast-scenery and the favorite summer- 
voyages with which the northern seas abound have been de- 
scribed at length in these pages. 

The plan and structure of the book, its system of treatment 
and forms of abbreviation, have been derived from the European 
Handbooks of Karl Baedeker. The typography, binding, and 
system of city plans also resemble those of Baedeker, and hence 
the grand desiderata of compactness and portability, which have 
made his works the most popular in Europe, have also been 
attained in the present volume. Nearly all the facts concerning 
the routes, hotels, and scenic attractions have been framed or 
verified from the Editor's personal experience, after many 
months of almost incessant travelling for this express purpose. 
But infallibility is impossible in a work of this nature, especial- 
ly amid the rapid changes which are ever going on in America, 
and hence the Editor would be grateful for any bona fide cor- 
rections or suggestions with which either travellers or residents 
may favor him. 

The maps and plans of cities have been prepared with the 
greatest care, and will doubtless prove of material service to all 
who may trust to their directions. They are based on the system 
of lettered and numbered squares, with figures corresponding to 
similar figures, attached to lists of the chief public buildings, 
hotels, churches, and notable objects. The hotels indicated by 
asterisks are those which are believed by the Editor to be the 
most comfortable and elegant. 

M. F. SWEETSER, 

Editor of Osgood's American Handbooks, 

211 Tremont St., Boston, 



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Digitized by the Internet Archive 
in 2010 with funding from 
The Library of Congress 



http://www.archive.org/details/maritimeprovince02swee 



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CONTENTS. 



PAGE 

I. Plan of Tour 1 

II. Newfoundland and Labrador 2 

III. Money and Travelling Expenses . . . . • . . -4 

IV. Railways and Steamboats ■* 

V. Round-Trip Excursions 5 

VI. Hotels 7 

VII. Language 7 

VIII. Climate and Dress ." 8 

IX. Fishing 8 

X. Miscellaneous Notes .- 9 

NEW BRUNSWICK. 

route 

General Notes 13 

1. St. John 15 

2. The Environs of St. John 22 

1. Lily Lake. Marsh Road 22 

2. Mispeck Road. Suspeusion Bridge 23 

3. Carleton 24 

3. St. John to Eastport and St. Stephen. Passamaquoddy Bay . 25 

4. Grand Manan 28 

78. Campoeello 30a 

5. St. John to St. Andrews and St. Stephen. Passamaquoddy Bay 30 

1. St. George. Lake Utoi)ia 32 

2. St. Andrews. Chamcook Mountain 33 

3. St. Stephen. Schoodic Lakes 35 

6. St. Andrews and St. Stephen to Woodstock and Houlton . 36 

7. St. John to Bangor 37 

8. St. John to Fredericton. The St. John River .... 39 

1. Kennebecasis Bay 40 

2. Belleisle Bay 42 

3. Fredericton ............. 44 

4. Fredericton to Miramichi 46 

9. Washademoak Lake 47 

10. Grand Lake 48 

11. Fredericton to Woodstock 49 

12. Fredericton to Woodstock, by the St. John River ... 51 

13. Woodstock to Grand Falls and Riviere du Loup . . . .53 



vi CONTENTS. 

ROUTE PAGE 

1. Tobique to Bathurst 54 

2. The St. John to the Restigouche ....... 56 

3. The Madawaska District ... * 57 

4. The Maine Woods. Temiscouata Lake 58 

14. St. John to Shediac 59 

15. The Bay of Chaledr and the North Shore of New Brunswick 60 

1. Chatham to Shijjpigan 61 

2. Shippigan. Bay of Chaleur 64 

3. Bathurst to Caraquette ^ 66 

4. Campbellton to St. Flavie 69 

16. St. John to Amherst and Halifax 70 

1. Quaco. Sussex Vale . . . . . , . . .71 

2. Albert County. Moncton to Quebec 72 

3. Dorchester. SackviUe 73 

NOVA SCOTIA. 

General Notes 75 

17. St. John to Amherst and Halifax . . . . . . .78 

1. Tantramar Marsh. Chignecto Peninsula 79 

2. North Shore of Nova Scotia 81 

18. St. John to Halifax, by the Annapolis Valley ... 83 

1. Annapolis Royal . 85 

2. The Annapolis Valley 88 

3. KentviUe to Chester 90 

19. Halifax ■ . . . . 93 

20. The Environs of Halifax 100 

1 . Bedford Basin. Point Pleasant 100 

21. The Basin of Minas. Halifax to St. John 101 

1. Advocate Harbor and Cape d'Or 103 

2. The Basin of Minas 104 

22. The Land of Evangeline 107 

23. Annapolis Royal to Clare and Yarmouth 112 

1. The Clare Settlements 113 

2. The Tusket Lakes and Archipelago 115 

24. DiGBY Neck .116 

25. Halifax to Yarmouth. The Atlantic Coast of Nova Scotia . 117 

1. Cape Sambro. Lunenburg 118 

2. Liverpool 120 

3. Shelburne 121 

4. Cape Sable 123 

26. Halifax to Yarmouth, by the Shore Route .... 126 

1. Chester. Mahone Bay 127 

2. Chester to Liverpool . . 128 

27. The Liverpool Lakes 129 

28. Halifax to Tangier 131 

29. The Northeast Coast of Nova Scotia T 133 

30. Sable Island 134 



CONTENTS. vii 

ROUTE PAGE 

31. St. John and Halifax to Pictott 136 

32. St. John and Halifax to the Strait of Canso and Cape Breton 138 

CAPE BKETON. 

General Notes 141 

33. The Strait of Canso 142 

34. Arichat and Isle Madame 145 

35. The Strait of Canso to Sydney, Cape Breton .... 146 

36. Halifax to Sydney, Cape Breton 148 

37. The East Coast of Cape Breton. The Sydney Coal-Fields . 152 

38. The Fortress of Louisbourg ...*..... 154 

39. The North Shore of Cape Breton 158 

1. St. Anne's Bay . 158 

2. St. Paul's Island .160 

40. The Bras d'Or Lakes 161 

1. Baddeck 162 

2. Great Bras d'Or Lake 164 

3. The Bras d'Or to Halifax 166 

41. Baddeck to Mabod and Port Hood 167 

1. St. Patrick's Channel. Whycocomagh 167 

42. The West Coast of Cape Breton 168 

1. Port Hood. Mabou 169 

2. Margaree. The Lord's Day Gale 170 

PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND. 

General Notes 172 

43. Shediac to Summerside and Charlottetown .... 174 

1. The Northumberland Strait 174 

44. PicTou TO Prince Edward Island 175 

45. Charlottetown 175 

1. Environs of Charlottetown 177 

46. Charlottetown to Summerside and Tignish. The Western 

Shores of Prince Edward Island . . . . . 177 

1. Rustico. Summerside ' . 178 

47. Charlottetown to Georgetown 180 

48. Charlottetown to Sour is . , . . . . . . . 182 

49. The Magdalen Islands . . , 183 

50. St. Pierre and Miquelon 185 

NEWFOUNDLAND. 

General Notes 187 

51. Halifax to St. John's, Newfoundland 188 

52. St. John's, Newfoundland 189 

53. The Environs of St. John's 195 

1. Portugal Cove. Eogie Bay. Torbay 195 

54. The Strait Shore of Avalon. St. John's to Cape Race . . 196 



viii CONTENTS. 

ROUTE PAGE 

1. The Grand Banks of Newfoundland ,199 

55. St. John's to Labrador. The Northern Coast of Newfoundland 200 

1. Bonavista Bay 203 

2. Twillingate. Exploits Island 205 

56. St. John's to Conception Bay 206 

57. Trinity Bay 208 

58. The Bay of Notre Dame 210 

59. Placentia Bay 212 

60. The Western Outports. St. John's to Cape Ray .... 213 

1. Fortune Bay 214 

2. Hermitage Bay ^ 215 

61. The French Shore. Cape Ray to Cape St. John . . . 216 

1. The Interior of Newfoundland 218 

2. The Strait of Belle Isle 220 

LABRADOR. 

General Notes 223 

62. The Atlantic Coast, to the Moravian Missions and Greenland 224 

1. The Moravian Missions 226 

63. The Labrador Coast of the Strait of Belle Isle . , . 227 

64. The Labrador Coast of the Gulf of St. Lawrence . . . 229 

1. The Mingan Islands 231 

2. The Seven Islands . 232 

^5. Anticosti 234 

PROVINCE OF QUEBEC. 

General Notes 235 

66. PiCTou TO Quebec. The Coasts of Gasp^ 238 

1. Paspebiac 240 

2. Perc6 242 

3. Gaspe 244 

67. The Lower St. Lawrence 246 

1. Father Point. Rimouski SSO 

2. Bic. Trois Pistoles 251 

3. St. Anne de la Pocatiere. L'Islet 253 

68. Quebec 255 

1. Durham Terrace . 259 

2. Jesuits' College. Basilica • . . 261 

3. Seminary 262 

4. Laval University. Parliament Building 263 

5. Hotel Dieu. Around the Ramparts . . . . . . 266 

6. The Lower Town 271 

69. The Environs of Quebec . . . 276 

1. Beauport. Montmorenci Falls 276 

2. Indian Lorette 278 

3. Ch5,teau Bigot. Sillery 280 

4. Point Levi. Chaudiere Falls 282 



CONTENTS. ix 

ROUTE PAGE 

70. Quebec to La Bonne Ste. Anne ........ 283 

1. The Falls of St. Anne 286 

71. The Isle of Orleans 288 

72. Quebec to Cacouna and the Saguenay Eiver .... 291 

1. St. Paul's Bay 292 

2. Murray Bay 294 

3. Cacouna . . • 296 

73. The Saguenay River 297 

1. Tadousac 299 

2. Chicoutimi .300 

8. Ha Ha Bay. Lake St. John . . 301 

4. Eternity Bay. Cape Trinity 303 

74. Quebec to Montreal. The St. La-vvrence Eiver .... 305 

75. Montreal 309 

1. Victoria Square. Notre Dame 311 

2. The GesiL St. Patrick's Church 313 

3. Cathedral. McGill University. Great Seminary . \ . . . 314 

4. Hotel Dieu. Mount RoyaL Victoria Bridge .... 316 

76. The Environs of Montreal 318 

1. Around the Mountain. Sault au Recollet 318 

2. Lachine Rapids. Caughnawaga ....... 319 

3. BelceU Mt. St. Anne . 320 

Index to Localities 321 

Index to Historical and Biographical Allusions .... 332 

Index to Quotations \ 333 

Index to Railways and Steamboats . . . . . . . 334 

List of Authorities Consulted ......... 334 



MAPS. 

1. Map of the Maritime Provinces. 

2. Map of Newfoundland and Labrador. 

3. Map of the Acadian Land, 

4. Map of the Saguenay River. 

5. Map of the Lower St. Lawrence River. 



PLANS OF CITIES. 

1. St. John : between pages 14 and 15. 

2. Halifax : between pages 92 and 93. 

3. Quebec : between pages 2-54 and 255. 

4. Montreal : between pages 308 and 309. 



ABBREVIATIONS. 



N. — North, Northern, etc. 

S. — South, etc. 

E. — East, etc. 

W. — West, etc. 

N. B. — New Brunswick. 

N. S. — Nova Scotia. 

N. F. — Newfoundland. 

Lab. — Labrador. 



P. E. L — Prince Edward Island. 

P. Q. — Province of Quebec. 

M. — mile or miles. 

r. — right. 

1. — left. 

ft. — foot or feet. 

hr. — hour. 

miu. — minute or minutes. 



Asterisks denote objects deserving of special attention. 



INTRODUCTIOK 



I. Plan of Tour. 

The most profitable course for a tourist in the Lower Provinces is to 
keep moving, and his route should be made to include as many as pos- 
sible of the points of interest which are easily accessible. There are but 
few places in this region where the local attractions are of suflftcient inter- 
est to justify a prolonged visit, or where the accommodations for stran- 
gers are adapted to make sach a sojourn pleasant. The historic and 
scenic beauties are not concentrated on a few points, but extend through- 
out the country, affording Trare opportunities for journeys whose general 
course may be replete with interest. The peculiar charms of the Mari- 
time Provinces are their history during the Acadian era and their noble 
coast scenery, — the former containing some of the most romantic episodes 
in the annals of America, and the latter exhibiting a marvellous blending 
of mountainous capes and picturesque islands with the blue northern sea. 
And these two traits are intertwined throughout, for there is scarce a 
promontory that has not ruins or legends of French fortresses, scarce a 
bay that has not heard the roaring broadsides of British frigates. 

The remarkable ethnological phenomena here presented are also cal- 
culated to awaken interest even in the lightest minds. The American tour- 
ist, accustomed to the homogeneousness of the cities and rural communi- 
ties of the Republic, may here see extensive districts inhabited by French- 
men or by Scottish Highlanders, preserving their national languages, cus- 
toms, and amusements unaffected by the presence and pressure of British 
influence and power. Of such are the districts of Clare and Madawaska 
and the entire island of Cape Breton. The people of the cities and the 
English settlements are quaintly ultra- Anglican (in the secular sense of 
the word), and follow London as closely as possible in all matters of cos- 
tume, idiom, and social manners. 

All these phases of provincial life and history afford subjects for study 
or amusement to the traveller, and may serve to make a sunmier voyage 
both interesting and profitable. 

Travelling has been greatly facilitated, within a few years, by the es- 
tablishment of railways and steamship routes throughout the Provinces. 
From the analyses of these lines, given in the following pages, the tourist 
1 ^ 



2 INTRODUCTION. 

will be able to compute the cost of his trip, both in money and in time. 
The following tour would include a glimpse at the chief attractions of the 
country, and will serve to convey an idea of the time requisite : — 

Boston to St. John 1| days. 

St. John . . . 1 

St. John to Annapolis and Halifax .... 2 

Halifax . 1 

Halifax to Sydney 1^ 

The Bras d'Or Lakes 1 

Port Hawkesbury to Pictou, Charlottetown, and Shediac 2 
Shediac to Quebec (by steamer) . . .. . . 4 

Quebec 3 

Quebec to Boston 1 

Failures to connect 3 



21 days. 

To this circular tour several side-trips may be added, at the discretion 
of the traveller. The most desirable among these are the routes to Pas- 
samaquoddy Bay, the St. John River, the Basin of Minas (to Parrsboro'), 
from Halifax to Chester and Mahone Bay, Whycocomagh, or Louisbourg 
(in Cape Breton), and the Saguenay River. Either of these side-trips will 
take from two to four days. 

If the tourist wishes to sojourn for several days or weeks in one place, 
the most eligible points for such a visit, outside of St. John and Halifax, 
are St. Andrews, Grand Manan, or Dalhousie, in New Brunswick ; An- 
napolis, Wolfville, Parrsboro', or Chester, in Nova Scotia ; Baddeck, in 
Cape Breton ; and, perhaps, Summerside, in Prince Edward Island. At 
each of these villages are small but comfortable inns, and the surround- 
ing scenery is attractive. 

II. Newfoundland and Labrador. 

Extended descriptions of these remote northern coasts have been given 
in the following pages for the use of the increasing number of travellers 
who yearly pass thitherward. The marine scenery of Newfoundland is 
the grandest on the North Atlantic coast, and here are all the varied phe- 
nomena of the northern seas, — icebergs, the aurora borealis, the herds of 
seals, the desolate and lofty shores, and the vast fishing-fleets from which 
France and the United States draw their best seamen. English and 
American yachtsmen grow more familiar every year with these coasts, 
and it is becoming more common for gentlemen of our Eastern cities 
to embark on fishing-schooners and make the voyage to Labrador or the 
Banks. 

The tourist can also reach the remotest settlements on the Labrador 



INTRODUCTION. 3 

coast by the steamship lines from Halifax to St. John's, N. F., and thence 
to Battle Harbor. This route takes a long period of time, though the 
expense is comparatively light ; and the accommodations on the steam- 
ships beyond St. John's are quite inferior. A shorter circular tour may 
be made by taking the steamer from Halifax to St. John's, and at St. 
John's embarking on the Western Outports steamship, which coasts along 
the entire S. shore of the. island, and runs down to Sydney, C. B., 
once a month. From Sydney the tourist can return to Halifax (or St. 
John, N. B.) by way of the Bras d'Or Lakes. The "Western Outports 
steamship also visits the quaint French colony at St. Pierre and Miquelon 
fortnightly, and the traveller can stop off there and return directly to 
Halifax by the Anglo-French steamship, which leaves St. Pierre fort- 
nightly. 

Sea-Sickness. The chief benefit to be derived on these routes is the 
invigoration of the bracing air of the nortliern sea. Persons who are 
liable to sea-sickness should avoid the Newfoundland trip, since rough 
weather is frequently experienced there, and the stewards are neither as 
numerous nor as dexterous as those on the transatlantic steamships. The 
Editor is tempted to insert here a bit of personal experience, showing 
how the results of early experiences, combined with the advice of veteran 
travellers, have furnished him with a code of rules which are useful against 
the mal du mer in all its forms. During 28 days on the Mediterranean 
Sea and 45 days on the Canadian waters, the observance of these simple 
rules prevented sickness, although every condition of weather was expe- 
rienced, from the fierce simoom of the Lybian Desert to the icy gales of 
Labrador. The chief rule, to which the others are but corollaries, is. 
Don't think of your physical self. Any one in perfect health, who will 
busy himself for an hour in thinking about the manner in which his 
breath is inhaled, or in which his eyes perform their functions, will soon 
feel ill at ease in his limgs or eyes, and can only regain tranquillity by 
banishing the disturbing thoughts. Avoid, therefore, this gloomy and 
apprehensive self-contemplation, and fill the mind with bright and en- 
grossing themes, — the conversation of merry companions, the exciting 
vicissitudes of card-playing, or the marvellous deeds of some hero of ro- 
mance. Never think of your throat and stomach, nor think of thinking 
or not thinking of them, but forget that such conveniences exist. Keep 
on deck as much as possible, warmly wrapped up, and inhaling the salty 
air of the sea. Don't stay in the lee of the funnel, where the smell of oil 
is nauseating. And if you are still ill at ease, lie down in your state- 
room, with the port-hole slightly opened, and go to sleep. The tourist 
should purchase, before leaving Halifax, two or three lively novels, a flask 
of fine brandy, a bottle of pickled limes, and a dozen lemons. 



INTRODUCTION. 



m. Money and Travelling Expenses. 

The tourist will experience great inconvenience from the lack of a uni- 
form currency in the Provinces. If he carries New-Brunswick money into 
Nova Scotia or Quebec, it can only be passed at a discount ; and the same 
is true with Nova Scotia or Quebec bills in either of the other Provinces. 
Dominion notes for small amounts are in circulation. To save frequent 
discounts, it is best for the tourist to carry notes of the Bank of Montreal, 
or IT. S. money, changing it, in each Province, for the amount )f local 
currency that he will be likely to need there. Respectable shop-keepers 
in the cities take U. S. money in payment for their goods, valuing it at 
the rate at which it is quoted on the local exchange. It is, however, more 
economical and convenient to take the U. S. money to an exchange oflSce 
and buy as much of the local currency as will be needed during the so- 
journ. The shop-keepers are apt to charge at least full prices to people 
who have American monej'. 

Canada bills are issued for one and two dollars. American silver is 
very unstable in its valuation, since a 25-cent piece goes for from 20 to 
24 cents in the same city and on the same day, the rate of exchange 
apparently depending on the time of day and the mood of the shop-keeper. 
Nova-Scotian or Canadian money is held at a heavy discount in New- 
foundland, and it is better to carry greenbacks there. 



IV. Sailways and Steamboats. 

The new-bom railway system of the Maritime Provinces is being ex- 
tended rapidly on all sides, by the energy of private corporations and 
the liberality of the Canadian Government. The lines are generally well 
and securely constructed, on English principles of solidity, and are not 
yet burdened by such a pressure of trafl&c as to render travelling in any 
way dangerous. The cars are built on the American plan, and are suf- 
ficiently comfortable. On most trains there are no accommodations for 
smokers, and, generally, when any such convenience exists, it is only to 
be had in the second-class cars. Pullman cars were introduced on the 
Intercolonial Railway in 1874, and will probably be retained there during 
the summer seasons. They have been used on the European and North 
American road for some years. There are restaurants at convenient dis- 
tances on the lines, where the trains stop long enough for passengers to 
take their meals. The narrow-gauge cars on the Prince Edward Island 
Railway will attract the attention of travellers, on account of their singular 
construction. The tourist has choice of three grades of accommodation 



INTRODUCTION. 5 

on the chief railways, — Pullman car, first-class, and second-class. The 
latter mode of travelling is very uncomfortable. 

The steamships which ply along these coasts aiford material for a 
naval museum. At least two vessels of the Quebec and Gulf Ports 
fleet were captured blockade-runners ; the Edgar Stuart was one of the 
most daring of the Cuban supply-ships, and was neaiiy the cause of 
a battle between the Spapish steamer Tornado and the U. S. frigate 
Wyoming, in the harbor of Aspinwall ; the M. A . Starr was built for 
a British gunboat ; it is claimed that the Virgo was intended for a U. S. 
man-of-war ; and there are several other historic vessels now engaged in 
these peaceful pursuits. Good accommodations are given on the vessels 
which ply between Boston and St. John and to Halifax and Prince Ed- 
ward Island. The cabins of the Quebec and Gulf Ports steamships are 
elegantly fitted np, and are airy and spacious. The Annapolis, Minas, 
Prince Edward Island, and Newfoundland lines have comfortable accom- 
modations, and the Yarmouth and North Shore vessels are also fairly 
equipped. The lines to the Magdalen Islands, St. Pierre, and along the 
Newfoundland and Labrador coasts are primarily intended for the trans- 
portation of freight, and for successfully encountering rough weather and 
heavy seas, and have small cabins and plain fare. The Saguenay steam- 
ers resemble the better class of American river-boats, and have fine 
accommodations. Since the Canadas are under the English social system 
and have retained the Old- World customs, it will be found expedient, in 
many cases, to conciliate the waiters and stewards by small gifts of 
money. As the results thereof, the state-rooms will be better cared for, 
and the meals will be more promptly and generously served. 

The Mail-Stages. — The remoter districts of the Provinces are visited 
by lines of stages. The tourist will naturally be deceived by the grandil- 
oquent titles of "Royal Mail Stage," or "Her Majesty's Mail Route," 
and suppose that some reflected stateliness will invest the vehicles that 
bear such august names. In point of fact, and with but two or three 
exceptions, the Provincial stages are far from corresponding to such ex- 
pectations ; being, in most cases, the rudest and plainest carriages, some- 
times drawn by but one horse, and usually unprovided with covers. The 
fares, however, are very low, for this class of transportation, and a good 
rate of speed is usually kept up. 

V. Eound-Tyip Excursions. 

During .the summer and early autumn the railway and steamship com- 
panies publish lists of excursions at greatly reduced prices. Infoi-mation 
and lists of these routes may be obtained of Lucius Tuttle, General Pas- 
senger Agent of the Eastern R. R., Boston; "W. H. Kilby, of the In- 
ternational Steamship Co., Boston; and Leve & Alden, Passenger Agents, 



6 INTRODUCTION. 

15 State Street, Boston, and 207 Broadwaj', New York. Small books are 
issued every spring by these companies, each giving several hundred 
combinations of routes, with their prices. They may be obtained on 
application, in person or by letter, at the above-mentioned offices. The 
excursion tickets are good during the season, and have all the privileges 
of first-class tickets. The following tours, selected from the books of the 
three companies, will serve to convey an idea of the pecuniary expense 
incurred in a trip from Boston through the best sections of the Mr,ritime 
Provinces. 

INTERNATTONAL STEAMSHIP CO. 

Halifax Bound Trip Excursion. — Boston to St. John by International 
Steamship Co.'s Steamers ; St. John to Annapolis by Bay of Fundy Steamers ; 
Annapolis to Halifax by W. & A. Railway ; Halifax to St. John by Intercolonial 
Railway ; St. John to Boston by International Steamship Co.'s Steamers. Fare, $18. 

Three Provinces Excursion. — Boston to St. John by International Steam- 
ship Co.'s Steamers ; St. John to Annapolis by Bay of Fundy Steamers ; Annapolis 
to Halifax by W. & A. Railway ; Halifax to Pictou by Intercolonial Railway ; Pic- 
tou to Charlottetown by P. E. I. Steamers ; Charlottetown to Summerside by 
P. E. I. Railway ; Summerside to Shediac by P. E. I. Steamers ; Shediac to St. 
John by Intercolonial Railway ; St. John to Boston by International Steamship 
Co.'s Steamers. Fare, $ 22. 

Eastport Excursion. — Boston to Eastport, and return, by International Steam< 
ship Co.'s Steamer. Fare, $ 7.50. 

St. John Excursion. — Boston to Eastport, and St. John, and return, by Inter- 
national Steamship Co.'s Steamer. Fare, $ 8.50. 

EASTERN RAILROAD. 

Grand Falls, N. B., and Betum, via Fredericton. 

Boston to Portland Eastern Railroad. 

Portland to Bangor Maine Central Railroad. 

Bangor to Vanceboro' European and North American R'y. 

Vanceboro' to Wood.stock New Brunswick and Canada R'y. 

Woodstock to Grand Falls New Brunswick Railway. 

Grand Falls to Gibson (opposite Frederic- 
ton) New Brunswick Railway. 

Fredericton to Fredericton Junction Fredericton Railway. 

Fredericton Junction to Vanceboro' St. John and Maine Railway. 

Vanceboro' to Ba»gor European and North American Railway. 

Bangor to Portland Maine Central Railroad. 

Portland to Boston Eastern Railroad. 

Hate from Boston $ 19. 

Halifax, N. S., and Betum. 

Boston to Portland Eastern Railroad. 

Portland to Bangor Maine Central Railroad. 

Bangor to Vanceboro' European and North American R'y. 

Vanceboro' to Carleton St. John and Maine Railway. 

Carleton to St. John Ferry. 

St. John to Annapolis.... Union Line Steamers. 

Annapolis to Halifax Windsor and Annapolis Railway. 

Return same route. 
Kate from Boston $ 21.75. 

Halifax, JV^ S., and Betum, via Quebec and Montreal. 

Boston to Portland Eastern Railroad. 

Portland to Bangor Maine Central Railroad. 

Bangor to Vanceboro' European and North American, R'y. 

Vanceboro' to Carleton St. John and Maine Railway. 



INTRODUCTION. 7 

Carleton to St. John Ferry. 

St. John to Halifax Intercolonial Railway. 

Halifax to Quebec Intercolonial Railway. 

Quebec to Montreal .Grand Trunk Railway. 

Montreal to Portland Grand Trunk Railway. 

Portland to Boston Eastern Railroad. 

Kate from Boston $ 40.50. 

The route-book of the Boston & Maine Railroad may be obtained by- 
sending to the General Passenger Agent, D. J. Flanders, Boston. The 
prices of its excursion-tickets are about the same as those of the Eastern 
Railroad. 

VI. Hotels. 

The hotels of the Maritime Provinces are far behind the age, and 
thereby the pleasure of a journey in this beautiful region is greatly 
lessened for the sybaritic Americans. The general rates at the better ho- 
tels of the second-class is :g 2 a day ; and the village inns and country tav- 
erns charge from $ 1 to $ 1.50, with reductions for boarders by the week. 

'VII. Language. 

The English language will be found sufficient, unless the tourist desires 
to visit the more remote districts of Cape Breton, or the Acadian settle- 
ments. The Gaelic is probably the predominant language on Cape Breton, 
but 'English is also spoken in the chief villages and fishing-communities. 
In the more secluded farming-districts among the highlands the Gaelic 
tongue is more generally used, and the tourist may sometimes find whole 
families, not one of whom can speak English. 

In the villages along the Lower St. Lawrence, and especially on. the 
North Shore, the French language is in common use, and English is 
nearly unknown. The relation of this language to the polite French 
speech of the present day is not clearly understood, and it is frequently 
stigmatized by Americans as "an unintelligible patois.'' This state- 
ment is erroneous. The Canadian French has borrowed from the Eng- 
lish tongue a few nautical and political terms, and has formed for itself 
words describing the peculiar phenomena and conditions of nature in the 
new homes of the people. The Indians have also contributed numerous 
terms, descriptive of the animals and their habits, and the operations of 
forest-life. But the interpolated words are of rare occurrence, and the 
language is as intelligible as when brought from the North of France, two 
centuries ago. It is far closer in its resemblance to the Parisian speech 
than are the dialects of one fourth of the departments of France. Trav- 
ellers and immigrants from Old France find no difficulty in conversing 
with the Lower-Canadians, and the aristocracy of Quebec speak as pure 
an idiom as is used in the Faubourg St. Germain. 



8 INTRODUCTION. 

This language has an extensive and interesting literature, which in- 
cludes science, theology, history, romance, and poetry. It has also 
numerous newspapers and magazines, and is kept from adulteration by 
the vigilance of several colleges and a powerful university. It is used, 
co-ordinately with the English language, in the records and journals of 
the Dominion and Provincial Parliaments, and sj)eeches and pleadings 
in French are allowable before the Parliaments and courts of Canada. 

Thus much to prove the substantial identity of the Lower-Canadian and 
French languages. The tourist who wishes to ramble through the an- 
cient French-Canadian districts will, therefore, get on very well if he has 
travelled much in Old France. But if the language is unknown to him, 
he will be subjected to many inconveniences and hardships. 

VIII. Climate and Dress. 

The more northerly situation of the Maritime Provinces and their vicin- 
ity, on so many sides, to the sea, render the climate even more severe and 
uncertain than that of New England. The extremes of heat and cold are 
much farther apart than in the corresponding latitudes of Europe, and, 
as Marmier expresses it, this region "combines the torrid climate of 
southern regions with the severity of an hyperborean winter." During 
the brief but lovely summer the atmosphere is clear and balmy, and 
vegetation flourishes amain. The winters are long and severe, but ex- 
ercise no evil effect on the people, nor restrain the merry games of the 
youths. Ever since Knowles sent to England his celebrated dictum that 
the climate of Nova Scotia consisted of " nine months of winter and three 
months of fog," the people of Britain and America have had highly ex- 
aggerated ideas of the severity of the seasons in the Provinces. These 
statements are not borne out by the facts ; and, though Nova Scotia 
and New Brunswick have not the mild skies of Virginia, their coldest 
weather is surpassed by the winters of the Northwestern States. The 
meteorological tables and the physical condition of the people pi'ove that 
the climate, though severe, is healthy and invigorating. The time has 
gone by for describing these Provinces as a gloomy land of frozen Hyper- 
boreans, and for decrying them with pessimistic pen. 

The worst annoyance experienced by tourists is the prevalence of dense 
fogs, which sometimes sweep in suddenly from the sea and brood over the 
cities. In order to encounter such unwelcome visitations, and also to be 
prepared against fresh breezes on the open sea, travellers should be pro- 
vided with heavy shawls or overcoats, and woollen ■underclothing should 
be kept at hand. 

IX. Fishing. 

" Anglers in the United States who desire to fish a salmon-river in the 
Dominion of Canada should club together and apply for the fluvial parts 



INTRODUCTION. 9 

of rivers The government leases the rivers for a term of nine years, 

and rivers unlet on the first day of each year are advertised by the gov- 
ernment to be let to the highest bidders. The places of residence of those 
tendering for fishings are not considered in letting a river ; and if a gen- 
tleman from the States overbids a Canadian, the river will be declared as 
his. Rivers are therefore hired by Europeans as well as by Canadians 

and citizens of the States Rivers are either let in whole or parts, 

each part permitting the use of a given number of rods, generally four. 
Parties who desire to lease a Canadian river should address a letter to the 
Minister of Marine and Fisheries, at Ottawa, stating how many rods they 
have, and the district which they prefer to fish. He will forward them 
a list of the leasable rivers, and a note of information, upon which they 
should get some Canadian to make the tender for them. The leases of 
fluvial parts of rivers vary from two to six hundred dollars a year for 
from thi-ee to eight rods, and the price for guides or gaffers is a dollar a 
day." (This subject is fully discussed in Scott's " Fishing in American 
Waters.") 

''The Game Fish of the Northern States and British Provinces," by 
Robert B, Roosevelt (published by Carleton, of New York, in 1865), 
contains an account of the salmon and sea-trout fishing of Canada and 
New Brunswick. The pursuit of sea-trout on the Lower St. Lawrence 
and Laval is described in pages 50-88 and 315-321; the Labrador rivers, 
pages 107-111 ; the Miramichi and Nepisiguit Rivers, pages 111-145; 
the Schoodic Lakes, pages 145-147. 

" Fishing in American Waters," by Genio C. Scott (published by Har- 
per and Brothers, 1869), contains practical directions to sportsmen, and 
graphic descriptions of fishing in the rivers of New Brunswick and Lower 
Quebec. 

" Frank Forester's Fish and Fishing of the United States and British 
Provinces of North America," by H. W. Herbert (New York, 1850), is to 
a large extent technical and scientific, and contains but a few incidental 
allusions to the provincial fisheries. 

"The Fishing Tourist," by Charles Hallock (published by Harper and 
Brothers, 1873), contains about 100 pages of pleasant descriptions relat- 
ing to the Schoodic Lakes, the best trout and salmon streams of Nova 
Scotia, New Brunswick, and Cape Breton, the Bay of Chaleur, the Sague- 
nay and Lower St. Lawrence, Anticosti, and Labrador. 

IX. Miscellaneous Notes. 

The times of departure of the provincial steamships are liable to change 
every season. The tourist can find full particulars of the days of sailing, 
etc., on arriving at St. John, from the local and the Halifax newspa- 
pers. The names of the agents of these lines have also been given here- 
1* 



10 INTEODUCTION. 

inafter, and further information may be obtained by writing to their 
addresses. 

The custom-house formalities at the national frontiers depend less upon 
the actual laws than upon the men who execute them. The examination 
of baggage is usually conducted in a lenient manner, but trunks and 
packages are sometimes detained on account of the presence of too many 
Canadian goods. It is politic, as well as gentlemanly, for the tourist to 
afford the officers every facility for the inspection of his baggage. 

Travellers are advised to carefully inspect the prices of goods oflFered 
them by shop-keepers, since tlie lavish and unquestioning extravagance 
of American tourists has somewhat influenced the tone of commercial 
morality. 

The people of the Provinces are generally courteous, and are willing to 
answer any civilly put questions. The inhabitants of the more remote 
districts are distinguished for their hospitality, and are kindly disposed 
and honest. 



EOUTES FEOM BOSTOIT TO THE MAEITIME 

PROYIJSrCES. 



1. By Railway. 

The Eastern and Maine Central R. R. Lines form the usuul mode of ap- 
proach by land. Their trains leave the terminal station on Causeway St., 
Boston, and run through to-Bangor, without change of cars. Pullman cars 
ai*e attached to the through trains, and tickets are sold to nearly all points 
in the Eastern Provinces. At Bangor passengers change to the cars of 
the European & North American R. R., which runs E. through the great 
forests of Maine and New Brunswick to the city of St. John. Between 
Boston and Portland this route traverses a peculiarly interesting country, 
with frequent glimpses of the sea; but the country between Bangor and 
St. John is almost devoid of attractions. 

The Boston cf Maine R. R. may also be used as an avenue to the Eastern 
Provinces, connecting at Portland with the lines to the Eastward, with 
good accommodations and swift trains, parlor cars, and other first-class 
accommodations. This route is identical with the preceding, beyond 
Portland. 

2. By Steamship. 

The International Steamship Company despatches vessels three times 
weekly from June 15 to October 1, leaving Commercial Wharf, Boston, at 
8 A. M., on Monday, Wednesday, and Friday. They touch at Portland, 
which is left at 6 p. m. ; and afterwards they run along the Mtiine coast, 
calling at Eastport and traversing Passamaquoddy Bay. Fares, — from 
Boston to Eastport, $5; to St. John, $5.50. 

The Nova Scotia S. S. Co. {Clements' Line) affords the most convenient 
route to visit the famous hunting and fishing grounds of the western coun- 
ties of Nova Scotia. Their steamships leave T Wharf, Boston, once a 
week, for Yarmouth, Lunenburg, and Lockport, giving an exhilarating 
voyage across the open sea. Another stanch vessel of this line plies reg- 
ularly between Boston, Digby, and Annapolis (22 hours at sea). 



12 FEOM BOSTON TO THE MARITIME PEOVINCES. 

The Boston, Halifax, and Prince Edward Island Steamship Line de-. 
spatch vessels from Nickerson's Wharf, Boston, every Saturday. After 
reaching Halifax these steamships run N. E. along the Nova-Scotia coast, 
round Cape Canso, and traverse the picturesque Gut of Canso. They call 
at Pictou and then run across to Charlottetown. By leaving the vessel at 
Port Hawkesburv, the tourist can easily reach the Bras d'Or and other 
parts of the island of Cape Breton. These vessels connect at Halifax ^Yith. 
the railways for Windsor, etc., and the Newfoundland steamships; and 
Port Hawkesbury Avith the Bras d'Or steamers; and at Pictou with the 
steamships of the Quebec S. S. Co., for Quebec and Montreal. 

3. Routes hy way of Montreal and Quebec. 

Montreal may be reached by either the Central Vermont R. R., the Mon- 
treal & Boston Short Line (Passumpsic R. R.), or the Eastern and Grand 
Trunk Lines. These routes are all described in Osgood's New England: 
a Handbook for Travellers. The most picturesque route from Quebec to 
the Maritime Provinces is by the vessels of the Quebec Steamship Company, 
which leave every week for the eastern ports of Quebec and Nova Scotia, 
connecting with the local lines of travel . The Intercolonial Railway extends 
around from Quebec to St. John and Halifax, but rims through a desolate 

region. 

4. Newfoundland. 

Passengers bound for the remoter East, for Newfoundland or Labrador, 
will find the best accommodations on the steamships of the Allan Line, 
which run from Halifax and Baltimore to St. John's, N. F. (and thence 
to Liverpool, etc.). The smaller vessels of the Cromwell Line (from New 
York) and the Acadian Line (from Montreal) also run to St. John's. 



Further pai*ticulars about these lines and their accommodations, the days 
on which they depart for Boston, etc., may be found in their advertise- 
ments, which are grouped at the end of the book. There, also, may be 
found the names and addresses of the agents of the lines, from whom other 
information may be obtained, by letter or by personal application. The 
main question for the summer tourist Avill naturally be whether he shall 
go eastAvard by rail or by a short sea-voyage. The Editor has travelled 
on each of the above-mentioned lines (with one exception) and on some of 
them several times, and has found them well equipped and comfortable. 



MARITIME-PROymCES HANDBOOK. 



NEW BRUNSWICK. 

The Province of New Brunswick is situated nearly in the centre of the 
North Temperate Zone, and is bounded by Maine and Quebec on the W., 
Quebec and the Bay of Chaleur on the N., the Gulf of St. Lawrence and 
the Northumberland Strait on the E., and Nova Scotia and the Bay of 
Fundy on the S. It is 140 M. long from E. to W., and 190 ]M. from N. to 
S., and contains 27,105 square miles. The direct coast-line (exclusive of 
indentations) is 410 M., which is nearly equally divided between the S. 
and E. shores, and is broken by many fine harbors. The Bay of Fundy 
on the S., and the Bay of Chaleur on the N., are of great size and com- 
mercial importance, — the former being 140 M. long by 30-50 M. wide; 
the latter being 90 M. long by 10 - 25 M. wide. The fisheries in the great 
bays and in the Guif are of immense value, employing many thousand 
men, and attracting large American fleets. They have furnished suste- 
nance to the people of the maritime counties, and have been the occasion 
of developing a race of skilful mariners. During the past 50 years 6,000 
vessels have been built in this Province, valued at neaidy $80,000,000. 
The lumber business is conducted on a vast scale on all the rivers, and 
the product amounts to $4,000,000 a year. 

The country is generally level, and is crossed by low ridges in the N. 
and W. There are numerous lakes, whose scenery is generally of a sombre 
and monotonous character. The interior is traversed by the rivers St. 
John, Restigouche, Miramichi, Petitcodiac, Nepisiguit, and Richibucto, 
which, with their numerous tributaries, afford extensive facilities for boat- 
navigation. The river-fisheries of New Brunswick are renowned for their 
variety and richness, and attract many American sportsmen. 

There are 14,000,000 acres of arable land in the Province, a great por- 
tion of which has not yet been brought into cultivation. The intervales 
of the rivers contain 60,000 acres, and are very rich and prolific, being 
fertilized by annual inundations. The chief agricultural products are 
wheat, buckwheat, barley, oats, potatoes, butter, and cheese ; but farming 
operations are still carried on in an antiquated and unscientific manner. 

The climate is less inclement on the Bay of Fundy than farther inland. 
The mean temperature for the last ten years at St. John was, for the 
winter, 17^°; spring, 37;^"'; summer, 58°; autumn, 44|°. The thermom- 



14 NEW BEUNSWICK. 

eter ranges between —22° and 87° as the extremes marked during the 
past ten years. 

The present domain of New Brunswick was formerly occupied by two 
distinct nations of Indians. The Micmacs were an offshoot of the Algon- 
quin race, and inhabited all the sea-shore regions. They were powerful 
and hardy, and made daring boatmen and fishermen. The Milicetes were 
from the Huron nation, and inhabited the St. John valley and the inland 
forests, being skilful in hunting and all manner of woodcraft. They were 
less numerous and warlike than the Micmacs. Both tribes had a simple 
and beautiful theology, to which was attached a multitude of quaint 
mythological legends. 

This region was included in the ancient domain of Acadie (or Acadia), 
which was granted to the Sieur De Monts by King Henri IV. of France, 
in 1603. De Monts explored the St. John River, and planted an ephemeral 
colony on the St. Croix, in 1604. From 1635 until 1645 the St. John River 
was the scene of the feudal wars between La Tour and Charnisay. Oliver 
Cromwell sent an expedition in 1654, which occupied the country; but 
it was restored to France by Charles II. in 1670. After the war of 1689 - 
97, this region was again confirmed to France, and its W. boundary was 
located at the St. George River, W. of Penobscot Bay. Meantime the 
shores of the Bay of Chaleur and the Gulf of St. Lawrence had been set- 
tled by the French, between 1639 and 1672. The New-Englanders invaded 
the Province in 1703, and in 1713 Acadia was ceded to England. 

The French limited the cession to Nova Scotia, and fortified the line of 
the Missiguash River, to protect the domains to the N. In 1755 a naval 
expedition from Boston took these forts, and also the post at St. John; 
and in 1758 the whole Province was occupied by Anglo-American troops. 
In 1763 it was surrendered to England by the Treaty of Versailles. 

The Americans made several attacks on northern Acadia during the 
Revolutionary War, but were prevented from holding the country by the 
British fleets at Halifax. At the close of the war many thousands of 
American Loyalists retired from the United States to this and the adjoin- 
ing countries. In 1784 New Brunswick was organized as a Province, 
having been previously dependent on Nova Scotia; and in 1788 the capi- 
tal was established at Fredericton. Immigration from Great Britain now 
commenced, and the forests began to give way before the lumbermen. In 
1839 the Province called out its militia on the occasion of the boundary 
disputes with Maine; and in 1861 it was occupied with British troops on 
account of the possibility of a war with the United States about the Trent 
affair. In 1865 New Brunswick refused, by a popular vote, to enter the 
Dominion of Canada, but it accepted the plan the next year, and became 
a part of the Dominion in 1867. 

The population of New Brunswick was 74,176 in 1824, 154,000 in 1840, 
285,777 in 1871, and 321,233 in 1881. 




Duffinn. 
New V/eteria. 



ST. JOHX. Route 1. 15 



1. St. John. 

Arrival from the Sea. — Soon after passing Negro Head, the steamer runs 
in by Partridge hcand, the round and rocky guard of the harbor of St. John. Its 
precipitous sides are seamed with deep clefts and narrow chasms, and on the upland 
are seen the Quarantine Hospital, the buildings of the steam fog-horn and the light- 
house, and the ruins of a cliff battery. On the 1. is the bold headland of Negrotown 
Point, crowned by dilapidated earthworks. The course now leads in by the Beacon- 
light (I. side), with the Martello Tower on Carleton Heights, and the high-placed 
St. Jude's Church on the 1. In front are the green slopes and barracks of the Mili- 
tary Grounds, beyond which are the populous hills of St. John. 

Hotels. — The Hotel Dufferin, at the corner of Charlotte St. and King Square, 
is the best (.^ 2.50 a day). The Now Victoria is a good hotel, on Princess St., near 
Germain St. The Park Hotel is'on the N. E. side of King's Square, and several 
smaller houses of varying grades are in the same vicinity. The Waverley is on 
King St., and is an old-fashioned British public-house. 

Ainusementsjj— Theatrical performances and other entertainments are fre- 
quently given at the Academy of Music, on Germain St, near Duke St. The 
Academy can accommodate 2,000 people. Lectures and concerts are given in the 
hall of the Mechanics' Institute, near the head of Germain St. 

Reading- Rooms. — The Young Men's Christian Association, on Charlotte 
St., near King Square ; open from 9 A. M. until 10 p. M. The Mechanics' Institute, 
near the head of Germain St., has an extensive variety of British papers on file. 

Carriages. — For a course within the city, 30c. for one passenger, lOc for each 
additional one. For each half-hour, 50c. If the river is crossed the passenger pays 
the toll, which is, for a double carriage, 15c. each way by ferry, 20c. by the bridge. 

Omnibuses run from Market Square through Dock and Mill Sts., to the ter- 
minus of the river steamboat-lines, at Indiantown. 

Railways. — The St. John and Maine Railway runs W. to Bangor in 206 M., 
connecting there with the Maine Central and Eastern lines for Boston, 449 M. from 
St. John. The same road also has a branch to Fredericton. The Intercolonial 
Railway runs E. to Shediac, Truro, and Halifax (276 M.), and to Quebec. 

Steamships. — The Temperley and other lines run steamships occasionally 
between St. John and Liverpool, or London. The International Steamship Com- 
pany despatch their sea- worthy vessels from St. John for Boston, touching at East- 
port and Portland, and connecting with steamers for St. Andrews, St. Stephen, 
Calais, and Grand Manan. In Jan. and Feb. they leave St. John on Thursdays; 
from March to July, and from Sept. 22 to Jan , they leave on Mondays and Thurs- 
days ; and July, Aug., and early Sept., on Monday, Wednesday, and Friday. Sail- 
ing time, 8 a.m. Fare to Boston, .'^ 5.50. Time, St, John to Eastport, 4 hrs. ; to 
Portland, 19 hrs.; to Boston, 27 hrs. The Annapolis steamers cross the Bay of 
Fundy to Digby and Annapolis several times weekly, at 8 a.m., connecting at An- 
napolis with the railway for Halifax. During .some seasons, steamers run from St. 
John to Yarmouth, to the Basin of Minas (Parrsboro' and Windsor), and to St. 
Andrews, and St. Stephen, The railway to St. Stephen is finished, 

St. John River Lines. — The steamers of the Union Line leave Indiantown daily 
at 9 A. M , for Fredericton and the intermediate landings Three times a week 
there is a night-boat, leaving at 5 P. m., for Fredericton and the intermediate land- 
ings. The Fawn leaves Indiantown on Wednesday and Saturday, at 8 a. m , 
for Gagetown and Grand Lake. Boats to the Washademoak Lake are uncertain. 

The Carleton ferry-steamers leave the foot of Princess St. every 15 minutes until 
9.30 p M. Fare, 3 c. ; for one-horse carriages, 9 c ; for two-horse carriages, 15 c. 



16 Route 1. ST. JOHN. 

St. John, the chief city of the Province of New Brunswick and the 
commercial metropolis of the Bay of Fundy, occupies a commanding 
position at the mouth of the St. John River. From its favorable situation 
for the purposes of commerce it has been termed "the Liverpool of 
Canada," and claims the proud position of the fourth port of the British 
Empire, next after London, Liverpool, and Glasgow. The city has 26,127 
inhabitants (census of 1881), and the contiguous city of Portland has 
15,227 more. The ridge upon which it is built is composed of solid rock, 
through which streets have been cut at great expense ; and the plan of the 
streets is regular, including a succession of rectangular squares. The 
general appearance of the city is, however, somewhat uneven and dingy, 
owing to the difference in the size of the buildings and to the absence of 
paint. Tlie harbor is good, and is kept free from ice by the high tides of 
the Bay of Fundy and the sweeping current of the St. John River. It is 
usually well filled with shipping, and the shores are lined with wharves 
and mills. The hill-country in the vicinity is barren but picturesque, and 
affords a variety of pleasing marine views. The fire department has 3 
steam-engines, but is seldom called into service. There are 41 churches 
in St. John and Portland, of which the Church of England claims prece- 
dence in point of numbers. There are 4 banks, and 4 daily and several 
weekly papers. 

Kinri Street is the main business street of the city, and runs from the 
harbor across the peninsula to Courtenay Bay. All the principal shops 
are on this street, between the harbor and King Square, and along Prince 
William St., which intersects it near the water. At the foot of the street 
is the Market Slip, into which the light packet-boats and produce-vessels 
from the adjacent rural counties bring wood and provisions for the use 
of the city. At low tide, these vessels are, for the most part, left to 
hold themselves up on the muddy flats. At this point landed the weary 
and self-exiled Amei'ican Loyalists, in 1783, and founded the city of St. 
John. The rather dreary breadth of King St. is occupied in its lower 
part by wagoners and unemployed workmen. From this point the street 
ascends a steep hill, passing the chief retail shops, and several banks and 
hotels, with numerous fine buildings on the rebuilt district. King Square 
is an open space of about 3 acres in area, studded with trees, and adorned 
in the centre with a fountain. Before the great fire, its entrance was 
adorned with a pretentious triumphal arch, erected in honor of Prince 
Arthur's visit, and afterwards utilized for sustaining the fire-alann hell. 
The City Market House is on the E., and exhibits the products of this 
region on well-arranged stalls. A few steps N. W. of the Square (on 
Charlotte St.) is the handsome building of the Young Men's Christian 
Association, containing a large hall, gymnasium, parlors, and class-rooms. 
The library and reading-room are open daily (except Sunday) from 9 A. M. 
to 10 p. M., and strangers are welcomed. The building cost $38,000, and 



ST. JOHN. JimUel. 17 

was dedicated in 1872, but subsequently gave signs of instability, and has 
since been strengthened at considerable expense. The County Coiirt 
House and Jail are at the S. E. corner of King Square, and are antiquated 
and liomely stone buildings. To the E. is the Old Burning-Ground, con- 
taining the graves of the pioneers of the province, with epitaphs in many 
cases quaint and interesting. 

Trinity Church extends frdm Germain St. to Charlotte St., near Prin- 
cess St., and is the finest church-building in the Maritime Provinces, being 
massively constructed of gray stone, with rambling connections, and a 
very striking interior. Occupying a conspicuous position near the crest 
of the hill, it is visible for a great distance. The first church on this site 
was built in 1788, and contained mural tablets and the Eoyal Arms from 
Trinity Church, New York, brought here by the Loyalists in 1783. This 
venerable building was destroyed in the great fire of 1877. Not far from 
Trinity is the Masonic Temple, a large and costly new edifice of brick. 
The publishing house of the McMillans is on an adjacent street, with its 
printing-office and book-stoi-e,^ 

By ascending the next street (Queen) to the 1., Queen Square is reached, 
— a carelessly kept park surrounded with dwelling-houses. A short dis- 
tance to the E., on St. James St., is the Wiggins Male Orphan Institu- 
tion, a new building in Gothic architecture, of red and gray sandstone. 
It is the most elegant and symmetrical structure of its size in the Prov- 
ince, and cost over $ 100,000, but is only adequate to the accommodation 
of 30 orphans. The Marine Hospital is in this vicinity. 

A short walk out Sydney St. or Caermarthen St. leads to the Military 
Grounds, on the extreme S. point of the peninsula. Here is a spacious 
parade-ground, which is now used only by the cricket and base-ball clubs, 
with a drill-shed which will hold 2,000 soldiers. These grounds were 
formerly occupied by large detachments from the British army, whose 
officers were a desired acquisition to the society of the city, while the mili- 
tary bands amused the people by concerts on Queen Square. 

Prince William Street runs S. from Market Square to Reed's Point, and 
is one of the chief thoroughfares of the city, containing several hotels and 
some of the largest shops. Where it crosses Princess St., the Carleton 
ferry is seen to the r. The * Post-Office is an elegant building of gray 
sandstone, at the corner of Princess St. ; opposite which is the new City 
Hall, a handsome stone building. The Savings Bank, the Bank of New 
Brunswick, and other institutions, are luxuriously domiciled in this vi- 
cinity. The great fire of 1877, which destroyed several millions' worth 
of property in St. John, swept this district clean, and many elegant new 
buildings have since arisen. The * Custom House is of creamy Dorches- 
ter sandstone, costing $250,000, with iron roofs and fire-proof floors, and 
two tall towers for the time-ball, the shipping signals, and the storm- 
drum. It contains several of the provincio-national offices, and a storm- 
signal station which receives warnings from " Old Probabilities " at Wash- 



18 Route 1. ST. JOHN. 

ington. The street ends at Reed's Pointy the headquarters of several 
lines of coasting-steamers, whence may be seen the Breakwater, W. of 
the Military Grounds. 

At the N. end of Germain St. is the old Stone Churchy a sanctuary of 
the Episcopalians under the invocation of St. John. Its square stone 
tower is visible for a long distance, on account of the elevation of the site 
on which it stands. Nearly opposite is the brick Calvin Church (Presb}-- 
terian); and in the same vicinity is the classic wooden front of the Me- 
chanics' Institute, which has a large hall, and is the domicile of one of the 
city schools. The reading-room is supplied with Canadian and British 
newspapers, and the library contains about 7, GOO volumes (open from 2^ to 
5 o'clock). From this point roads descend to the water-side and to the 
railway station in the Valley. 

The Eoman Catholic * Cathedral is situated on Waterloo St., and is 
the largest church in the Province. It is constructed of marble and sand- 
stone, in pointed architecture, and has a tall and graceful stone spire. 
The interior is in a style of the severest simplicity, the Gothic arches of 
the clere-story being supported on plain and massive piers. The windows 
are of stained glass, and are very brilliant and rich. The chancel and 
transept windows are large and of fine design ; a rose window is placed over 
the organ-loft ; and the side windows represent Saints Bernard, Dominic, 
Ambrose, Jerome, Mark, Matthew, Andrew, Benedict, Francis, John, 
Luke, Augustine, and Gregory. The building is 200 ft. long, and 110 ft. 
wide at the transepts. The Bishop'' s Palace is the fine sandstone building 
towards Cliff St., beyond which is the extensive building of the Orphan 
Asylum, fronting on Cliff St. On the other side of the Cathedral is the 
plain brick building of the Nunnery. The visitor should notice, over the 
Cathedral portal adjacent to the Nunnei*y, the great marble bas-relief of 
the Last Supper (after Leonardo Da Vinci's painting at Milan). 

From this point Waterloo St. descends to the Marsh Bridge, at the head 
of Courtenay Bay. By ascending Cliff St. for a short distance, a point 
may be reached from which are seen the Valley, with its churches and 
streets, and the embowered villas on Portland Heights, over which Eeed's 
Castle is prominent. 

The General Public Hospital is situated on a bold rocky knoll which 
overlooks the Marsh Valley, and is entered from Waterloo St, It consists 
of a large brick building with one wing, and accommodates 80 patients. 
The structure pertains to the city, and was erected in 1865 at a cost of 
$ 54,000. Directly below the precipitous sides of the knoll on which it is 
built is the broad Marsh, covered with houses, and extending on the r. 
to Courtenay Bay. The geologists entertain a plausible theory that in 
remote ages the St. John Eiver flowed down this valley from the Kenne- 
becasis to the sea, until finally the present channel through the Narrows 
was opened by some convulsion of nature. 



ST. JOHN. Route 1. 1 9 

That suburb which is known as the Valley lies between the rocky hills 
of the city proper and the line of the Portland Heights. It is reached 
from King Square by Charlotte and Cobourg Sts., and contains the tracks 
and station of the Intercolonial Railway. The most prominent object in 
the Valley Is St. PauVs Church (Episcopal), a graceful wooden edifice with 
transepts, a clere-story, and a tall spire. The windows are of stained glass. 
The brick church of St. Stephen and the white Zion Church (Reformed 
Episcopal) are also situated in the Valle}'', and the road to Lily Lake di- 
verges to the r. from the latter. Farther to the E., on the City Road, is 
the Skating Rink, a round wooden building, 160 ft. in diameter, covered 
with a domed roof. This is the favorite winter resort of the aristocracy 
of St. John, and strangers can gain admission only by introduction from 
one of the directors. 

The site of St. John was the Menagwes of ancient Micmac tradition, where the 
divine Glooscap once had his home. Hence, during his absence, his attendants 
"were carried away by a powerful evil magician, who tied with them to Grand Manan, 
Cape Breton, and Newfoundland, where he was pursued by Glooscap, who rode 
much of the way on the backs of whales which he called in from the deep sea. 
Passing through Cape Breton, he at length reached the dark Newfoundland shores, 
where he assumed such a stature that the clouds rolled about his head. The evil- 
doing wizard was soon found and put to death and the servants of Glooscap were 
set free. 

The site of St. John was discovered by Champlain and De Monts, on St. John's 
Day (June 2i), 1604, but was not occupied for 30 years after. 

Claude de la Tour, a Huguenot noble, was one of the earliest of the French adven- 
turers in this region, and received a grant of all Acadia from Charles I. of England. 
After his repulse and humiliation (see Route 25), the French government divided 
Acadia into three provinces, placing there as governors, M. Denys, Razilly, and the 
young and chivalrous Charles de St. Estienne, Lord of La Tour (son of Claude). 
Denys contented himself with the ocean-fisheries from Canso and Cape Breton. 
Razilly soon died, leaving his domain to his kinsman Charles de Menou,Sieurd'Aul- 
nay Charnisay, who was also related to Cardinal Richelieu. D'Aulnay and La Tour 
began to quarrel about the boundaries of their jurisdictions, and the former em- 
ployed a powerful influence at the Court of France to aid his cause. Louis XIII. 
finally ordered him to carry La Tour to France, in chains, and open war ensued 
between these patrician adventurers. La Tour had erected a fort at St. John in 
1634, whence he carried on a lucrative fur-trade with the Indians. In 1643 this 
stronghold was attacked by D'Aulnay with six vessels, but La Tour escaped on the 
ship Clement, leaving his garrison to hold the works. He entered Boston Harbor 
with 140 Huguenots of La Rochelle, and sought aid from Massachusetts against the 
Catholic forces which were besieging him. The austere Puritans referred to the 
Bible to see if they could find any precedent for such action, but found no certain 
response from that oracle. "On the one hand, it was said that the speech of the 
Prophet to Jehoshaphat, in 2d Chronicles xix. 2, and the portion of Solomon's 
Proverbs contained in chap, xxvi, 17th verse, not only discharged them from any 
obligation, but actually forbade them to assist La Tour ; while, on the other hand, 
it was agreed that it was as lawful for them to give him succor as it was for Joshua 
to aid the Gibeonites against the rest of the Canaanites, or for Jehoshaphat to aid 
Jehoram against Moab, in which expedition Elishawas present, and did not reprove 
the King of Judah." But when they had assured themselves that it would bo 
allow-ible for them to aid the distressed nobleman, they sent such a fleet that D'Aul- 
nay's forces were quickly scattered, and the siege was raised. Two years later, 
while La Tour was absent, D'Aulnay again attacked the fort, but was handsomely 
repulsed (with a loss of 33 men) by the little garrison, headed by Madame La Tour. 
Some months later he returned, and opened a regular siege on the landward side 
(the fort was in Carleton, near Navy Island). After three days of fighting a treach- 
erous Swiss sentry admitted the enemy into the works ; and even then Madame La 
Tour led her troops so gallantly that the victor gave her her own terms. These 



20 Route 1, ST. JOHN. 

terms, however, were shamefully violated, and the garrison was massacred before 
her face. Three weeks afterward, she died of a broken heart. La Tour came back 
to St. John some years later, and found that D'Aulnay was dead, whereupon he 
effectually recaptured his old domain by marrying the widow of the conqueror 
(1653). D'Aulnay died in 1650, having spent 800,000 livres in Acadia, and built 5 
fortresses, 2 seminaries, and several churches. He had several sons, all of whom 
entered the French army, and were slain in the service. 

In 1690 a sharp engagement took place in St. John harbor, between the French 
frigate Union and two English vessels. The former had entered the harbor bearing 
the Chevalier de Villebon, and was taken at a disadvantage. After a severe cannon- 
ade, the Union hauled down her colors. Villebon soon descended the river with 
a party of Indians and attacked the ships, but without success. In 1696. while the 
Chevalier de Yillebon governed Acadia from the upper St. John and hurled de- 
structive Indian bands upon New England, Massachusetts sent three men-of-war to 
blockade the mouth of the river and cut off his supplies. They were soon attacked 
by D'Iberville's French frigates, and made a desperate resistance. But the New- 
port, 24, was unable to withstand the heavy fire of the Profond, and soon lay dis- 
masted and helpless. After her surrender the other American vessels escaped 
under cover of a thick fog. A new fleet from Boston soon afterwards overhauled 
the French frigates, cruising between Mount Desert and St. John, and captured 
the Profond^ with M. de Villebon, the Governor of Acadia, on board. In 1701 the 
fort of St. John was dismantled by Brouillan : but in 1708 it was rebuilt, and had 
4 bastions and 24 pieces of artillery. 

In July, 1749, H. B. M. sloop-of-war Albany entered the harbor and drove away 
the French troops, lowering also the standard of France. The frigates Hound and 
York had a skirmish with the French here in 1750, and were ordered out of the 
port by Boishebert, the commandant of the fort. In 1755, four British war-vessels 
entered the harbor, and the French garrison demolished the fort, blew up the mag- 
azine, and retreated into the country. In 1758 Fort La Tour was still garrisoned 
by French soldiers, but, after a short siege by an Anglo-American force, the post 
was surrendered at discretion. Two years later, the place wa.s visited by James 
Simonds, an adventurous New-Englander, who was, however, soon driven away by 
the Indians, " Catholics and allies of France.'' In 1764 he returned with a party 
of Massachusetts fishermen, and settled on the present site of the city, erecting de- 
fensive works on Portland Heights, under the name of Fort Howe. In 1775 a naval 
expedition of Americans from Machias entered the harbor and destroyed the old 
French fortifications (then called Fort Frederick), completing their work by plun- 
dering and bombarding the village. May 18, 1783, a British fleet arrived in the 
port bringing 5,000 of the self-styled '"United Empire Loyalists," Americans who 
were loyal to King George and could not or would not remain in the new Republic 
of the United States. From this day may be dated the growth of the city of St. 
John. 

New Brunswick was set off from Nova Scotia as a separate Province the next 
year, and in 1786 its first Legislative Assembly was convened here. In 1787 
Trinity Church was founded ; in 1788 harbor-lights were established on Partridge 
Island, and in 1799 the Royal Gazette was started. In 1837 one third of the com- 
mercial portion of the city was burned, involving a loss of £250,000. During the 
boundary dispute with the State of Maine (1839-42) the citizens were all enrolled 
and drilled in military exercises, in preparation for a war on the borders. Large 
fortunes were made by the merchants during the Crimean war, when the British 
timber-market, which had depended largely on the Baltic ports for its supply, was 
by their closing fore ed to draw heavil}' on the American Provinces. The last his- 
toric event at St. John was its occupation, in the winter of 1861, by several of the 
choicest regiments of the British army, among which were the Grenadier Guards, 
the Scotch Fusiliers, and other elite corps. After the peaceful solution of the Trent 
affair this formidable garrison was removed, and the city has since been left to 
prosper in the arts ot peace and industry. 

" Here is picturesque St. John, with its couple of centuries of history and tradi- 
tion, its commerces, its enterprise felt all along the coast and through the settle- 
ments of the territoi'y to the northeast, with its no doubt charming society and 
solid English culture ; and the summer tourist, in an idle mood regarding it for 
a day, says it is naught." (AVarner's Baddeck.) 

The great exodus to the United States has recently seriously reduced the popula- 
tion of St. John, and all the Eastern Provinces. In October, 1883, St. John cele- 
brates its centennial anniversary, b^ a grand Dominion-of-Canada Exhibition. 



ST. JOHN. 



Route L 21 



St. John. 1647. 



" To the winds give our banner I 

Bear homeward again ! " 
Cried the Lord of Acadia, 

Cried Charles of Estienne ; 
From the prow of his shallop 

He pazed, as the sun, 
From its bed in the ocean. 

Streamed up the St. John. 

O'er the blue western waters 

That shallop had passed, 
"Where the mists of Penobscot 

Clun^ damp on her mast. 
St. Savior had looked 

On the heretic sail. 
As the songs of the iluguenot 

Rose on the gale. 

The pale, ghostly fathers 

Remembered her well. 
And had cursed her while passing, 

With taper and bell. 
But the men of Monhegan, 

Of Papists abhorred. 
Had welcomed and feasted 

The heretic Lord. 

They had loaded his shallop 

With dun-fish and ball, 
With stores for his larder, ' 

And steel for his wall. 
Pemequid, from her bastions 

And turrets of stone. 
Had welcomed his coming 

With banner and gun. 

And the prayers of the elders 

Had followed his way, 
As homeward he glided 

Down Pentecost Bay. 
O, well sped La Tour ! 

For, in peril and pain, 
His lady kept watch 

For his coming again. 

0"er the Isle of the Pheasant 

The morning sun shone. 
On the ulane-trees which shaded 

The shores of St. John. 
" Now why from yon battlements 

Speaks not my love? 
Why waves there no banner 

My fortress above ? " 

Dark and wild, from his deck 

St. Estienne gazed about, 
On fire-wasted dwellings, 

And silent redoubt ; 
From the low shattered walls 

Which the flame had o'errun, 
There floated no banner. 

There thundered no gun. 

But beneath the low arch 

Of its doorway there stood 
A pale priest of Rome, 

In his cloak and his hood. 
With the bound of a lion 

La Tour sjiranp to lond. 
On the throat of the Papist 

He fastened his hand. 

" Speak, son of the Woman 

Of scarlet and sin I 
What wolf has been prowling 

My castle within ? " 
From the grasp of the soldier 

The Jesuit broke. 
Half in scorn, half in sorrow, 

He smiled as he spoke : 



" No wolf. Lord of Estienne, 

Has ravaged thy hall. 
But thy red-hand.ed rival. 

With fire, steel, and balll 
On an errand of mercy 

I hitherward came. 
While the walls of thy castle 

Yet spouted with flame. 

" Pentagoet's dark vessels 

Were moored in the bay, 
Grim sca-lioiis, roaring 

Aloud for their preyl" 
*' But what of my lady 'i " 

Cried Charles of Estienne. 
" On the shot-crumbled turret 

Thy lady was seen : 

" Half veiled in the smoke-cloud, 

Her hand grasped thy pennon, 
While her dark tresses swayed 

In the hot breath of cannon 1 
But woe to the heretic. 

Evermore woe! 
When the son of the church 

And the cross is his foe 1 

"In the track of the shell. 

In the path of the ball, 
Pentagoet swept over 

The breach of the wall! 
Steel to steel, gun to pun, 

(Jne moment, — and then 
Alone stood the victor. 

Alone with his men! 

" Of Its sturdy defenders, 

Thy lady alone 
Saw tlie cross-bill zoned banner 

Float over St. John." 
" Let the dastard look to it I " 

Cried fiery Estienne, 
"Were D Aulnay King Louis, 

1 d free her again 1 " 

" Alas for thy lady I 

No service from thee 
Is needed by her 

Whom the Lord hath set free : 
Nine days, in stern silence. 

Her thraldom she bore. 
But the tenth morning came. 

And Death opened her door I " 

As if suddenly smitten. 

La Tour staggered back : 
His hand grasjjed his sword-hilt. 

His forehead grew black. 
He sprang on the deck 

Of his shallop again, 
"We cruise now for vengeance I 

Give way 1 " cried Estienne. 

" Massachusetts shall hear 

Of tne Huguenot s wrong. 
And from island and creekside 

Her fishers shall throng ! 
Pentagoet shall rue 

What his Papists have done. 
When his palisades echo 

The Puritans gun ! " 

O, the loveliest of heavens 

Hung tenderly o er him. 
There were waves in the sunshine. 

And green isles before him : 
But a pale hand was beckoning 

The Huguenot on ; 
And in blackness and ashes 

Behind was St. John ! 

John G. Whiiiisb. 



22 Route S. THE ENVIEONS OF ST. JOHN. 

2. The Environs of St. John. 

* Lily Lake is about 1 M. from King Square, and is reached by cross- 
ing the Valley and ascending Portland Heights. The road which turns to 
the r. from the white (Zion) church conducts past several villas and rural 
estates. From its end a broad path diverges to the r., leading in a few 
minutes to the lake, a beautiful sheet of water surrounded by high rocky 
banks. The environs are thickly studded with clumps of arbor-vita and 
evergreens, among which run devious rambles and pathways. No houses 
or other signs of civilization are seen on the shores, and the citizens wish 
to preserve this district in its primitive beauty by converting it into a pub- 
lic park. The water is of rare purity, and was used for several years to 
supply the city, being pumped up by expensive machinery. This is a 
favorite place for skating early in the season, and at that time presents a 
scene of great activity and interest. A pleasant pathway leads on one 
side to the Lily Lake Falls, which are attractive in time of high water. 

The Marsh Road is the favorite drive for the citizens of St. John, and 
presents a busy scene on pleasant Sundays and during the season of sleigh- 
ing. It is broad, firm, and level, and follows the (supposed) ancient bed 
of the St. John River. At IJ M. from the city the Rural Cemetery is 
reached (only lot-owners are admitted on Sunda}'). This is a pleasant 
ground occupying about 12 acres along a cluster of high, rock}' knolls, 
and its roads curve gracefully through an almost unbroken forest of old 
(but small) evergreen trees. The chief point of interest is along Ocean 
Avenue, where beneath uniform monuments are buried a large number 
of sailors. 1^ M. beyond the Cemeterj'- the Marsh Road passes the Three- 
Mile House and Moosepath Park, a half-mile course which is much used 
for hoi'se-racing, especially during the month of August. 3 - 4 M. farther 
on (with- the Intercolonial Railway always near at hand) the road reaches 
the Torryhurn House, near the usual course for boat-racing on the broad 
Kennebecasis Bay. The course of this estuary is now followed for 2 M., 
with the high cliff called the Minister'' s Face on the farther shore. Pass- 
ing several country-seats, the tourist arrives at Rothesay, prettily situated 
on the Kennebecasis. This village is a favorite place of summer residence 
for families from the city, and has numerous villas and picnic grounds. 
The facilities for boating and bathing are good. Near the railway station 
i^ Rothesay Hall, a summer hotel, accommodating 30-40 guests ($8-10 
a week). There are pleasant views from this point, including the broad 
and lake-like Kennebecasis for many miles, the palisades of the Minister's 
Face, and the hamlet of Moss Glen. 

Loch Lomond is about 11 M. N. E. of St. John, and is a favorite resort 
for its citizens. Many people go- out to the lake on Saturday and remain 
there until Monday morning. The road crosses the Marsh Bridge and 
passes near the Silver Falls, a pr^^ty cascade on Little River (whence the 



THE ENVIRONS OF ST. JOHN. Route 2. 23 

city draws its water supply). There are two small hotels near Loch 
Lomond, of which Bunker's is at the lower end and Dalzell's is 3-4 M. be- 
yond, or near the head of the First Lake. These waters are much re- 
sorted to by trout-fishers, and the white trout that are found near Dalzell's 
Lake House are considered a delicacy. Boats and tackle are funaished 
at the hotels; and there is good shooting in the vicinity. The shores con- 
sist, for the most part, of low rolling hills, covered with forests. The First 
Lake is 4 x ^ M. in area, and is connected by a short stream with the 
Second Lake, which is nearly 2 M. long, and very narrow. The Third 
Lake is smaller than either of the others. 

" An elevated ridge of hard-wood land, over which the road passes near the nar- 
rovrest part, afforded me from its summit a view of the lower lake, which would not 
suffer in comparison with many either of our English or our Scottish lakes. Its 
surface was calm and still ; heyond it rose a wooded ridge of rounded hills, purpled 
by the broad-leaved trees which covered them, and terminated at the foot of the 
lake by a lofty, so-called Lion's Back, lower considerably than Arthur's Seat, yet 
still a miniature Ben Lomond." — Prof. Johnston. 

Ben Lomond, Jones, Taylor's, and other so-called lakes (being large forest-ponds) 
are situated in this neighborhood, and afford better fishing facilities than the much- 
visited waters of Loch Lomond. Both white and speckled trout are caught in great 
numbers from rafts or floats on these ponds ; and Bunker's or Dalzell's affords a 
favorable headquarters for the sportsman, where also more particular information 
may be obtained. 

The Penitentiary is a granite building 120 ft. long, situated in an in- 
walled tract of 18 acres, on the farther side of Courtenaj' Bay. The Poor 
House is a spacious brick building in the same neighborhood. The road 
that passes these institutions is prolonged as far as Mispech, traversing a 
diversified country, and at times affording pretty views of the Bay of 
Fundy. Mispeck is a small marine hamlet, 10 M. from St. John. 

4 M. N. of the city is the estate of the Highland Park Company, an asso- 
ciation of citizens who have united for the purpose of securing rural homes 
in a beautiful and picturesque region. There are three lakes on the tract 
(which includes 500 acres), the chief of which is Hoive's LaJce, a small but 
pretty forest-pond. 

The * Suspension Bridge is about IJ M. from King Square, and most 
of the distance may be traversed by omnibuses, passing through the city 
of Portland and under Fort Howe Hill (whence a good view of the city is 
afforded). The bridge crosses the rocky gorge into which the wide waters 
of the St. John Eiver are compressed, at a height of nearly 100 ft. above 
low water. The rush of the upward tide, and the falls which become 
visible at low tide, fill the stream with seething eddies and whirls and 
render navigation impossible. At a certain stage of the flood-tide, and for 
a few minutes only, this gorge may be passed by vessels and rafts. 

The St. John E,iver is over 450 M. long, and, with its many tributaries, drains a 
vast extent of country. Yet, at this point, where its waters are emptied into the 
harbor, the outlet of the river is narrowed to a channel which is in places but 450 
ft. wide, with cliffs of limestone 100 ft. high hemming it in on either side. The stream 
rushes through this narrow pass with great impetuosity, and its course is further 
disturbed by several rocky islets. The tides in the harbor rise to a height of 22-26 



24: Route 2. THE ENVIRONS OF ST. JOHN. 

ft. , and rush up the river with such force as to overflow the falls and produce level 
water at flood- tide. The bridge was built in 1852 by an American engineer, and cost 
S 80,000. It is 640 ft. long and contains 570 M. of wire, supported on 4 slender but 
solid towers. 

Over the head of the bridge, on the Carleton shoi*e, is the Provincial 
Lunatic Asylum, an extensive brick building with long Avings, situated in 
pleasant grounds. Its elevated situation i-enders it a prominent object in 
approaching the city from almost any direction. The building was erected 
in 1848, and accommodates 200 patients. From this vicinity, or from the 
bridge, are seen the busy manufacturing villages about Indiantown and 
Point Pleasant, most of which are engaged in the lumber business. 

On the summit of the highest hill in Carleton is a venerable and pic- 
turesque stone tower, which gives an antique and feudal air to the land- 
scape. It is known as the Martello Tower, and was built for a harbor- 
defence at the time when this peculiar kind of fortification was favored 
by the British War Office. Many of these woi-ks may be seen along the 
shores of the British Isles, but they are now used (if used at all) only as 
coast-guard stations. The tower in Carleton is under the charge of a sub- 
officer, and near by are seen the remains of a hill-battery, with a few old 
guns still in position. The *yiew from this point is broad and beautiful, 
including St. John, with the spires of Trinity and the Cathedral most 
prominent, Portland and the Fort Howe Hill, the wharves of Carleton and its 
pi'etty churches, the harbor and shipping, the broad Bay of Fundy, ex- 
tending to the horizon, and in the S. the blue shoi-es of Nova Scotia (the 
North Mt.), with tiie deep gap at the entrance to the Annapolis Basin, 
called the Digby Gut. 

The streets of Carleton are as yet in a transition state, and do not invite 
a long sojourn. On the hill near the Martello Tower is the tall and grace- 
ful Church of the Assumption, with pleasant grounds, in which is the 
fine building of the presbytery. Below this point is the Convent of St. 
Vincent, S. of which is seen the spire of St. Jude's Episcopal Church. 

The Fern Ledges are about 1 M. from Carleton, on the shore, and are much 
visited by geologists. They consist of an erratic fragment of the Old RedSaudstone 
epoch, and are covered with sea-weed and limpets. On clearing away the weeds and 
breaking the rock, the most beautiful impressions of ferns and other cryptogamous 
plants are found. 

The Mahogany 1 Road affords a fine drive along the Bay shore, with a 
succession of broad marine views. It is gained by crossing the Suspen- 
sion Bridge and passing the Insane Asylum. About 4 M. from the city is 
the Four-Mile House, a favorite objective point for drives. The road is 
often followed as far as Spruce Lake, a fine sheet of water 5 M. long, and 
situated about 7 M. from St. John. Perch are found here in great num- 
bers, but the facilities for fishing are not good. The water supply of the 
suburb of Carleton is drawn from this lake. 

1 Mahogany, a popular adaptation of Sie Indian word Manawagonish, applied to the 
neighboring bay. 



CAMPOBELLO. Route 3. 25 

a St. John to Eastport and St. Stephen. - Passamaquoddy 

reach Eastport (60 M di^taut^T WttutnJl^^^ I' J?iwa\,at 8 a, m., aud 

The Grand Southern Eailway runs from St. John to St. Stephen, 8G M 
y\ ., and It IS hoped that it may be extended down through Maine to 13an^ 
gor, crossing the frontier at Calais, and running around through the coast 
counties._ It is not yet perfect in route and equipment, and is content with 
runmng m a very leisurely way down this picturesque and thinly settled 
coast. The localities which it approaches are more particularly described 
on pages 31, 32, 33, 34, and 35 of this book. 

Djer's, 62 j ok Bay, 67 ; St 'Stephen, 82.' ' ^'- '^'°'^'' *^ ' ^^^^^^ ^'^'''> 58 ; 
After leaving St. John, the steamer runs S. W. into the Bay of Fundy 
and soon passes Split Rock, and stretches across to Point Lepreau The 
peculiarities of the coast, which is always visible (in clear weather) on the 
N., are spoken of in Route 5, and are thus epitomized by Mr. Warner • 
"A pretty bay now and then, a rocky cove with scant foliage, a light- 
house, a rude cabin, a level land, monotonous and without noble forest^; — 
this was New Brunswick as we coasted along it under the most favorable 
circumstances." 

After passing the iron-bound islets called the Wolves (where the New 
England was wrecked in 1872), the steamer runs in towards the West 
Isles, whose knob-like hills rise boldly from the blue waters. Sometimes 
she meets, in these outer passages, great fleets of fishing-boats, either 
dnftmg over schools of fish, or, with their white and red sails stretched 
pursuing their prey. If such a meeting occurs during one of the heavy 
fogs which so often visit this coast, a wonderfully weird eff^ect is caused 
by the sudden emergence and disappearance of the boats in the dense 
white clouds. 

Soon after passing the White Horse islet, the steamer enters the Eastern 
Passage, and runs to the S. W. into Friar's Road. On the r is Deer 
Isle a rugged island, 7 M. long by 3 M. wide, with a poor soi'l and no 
good harbors. There are about 1,600 inhabitants on this island, and it is 
surrounded by an archipelago of isolated rocky peaks. The shores attain 
an elevation of 300 ft., and from some of the higher hills are gained beau- 
tiful panoramic views of the Passamaquoddy Bay, on one side, and the 
Bay of Fundy, on the other. 



2 



26 Route 3. EASTPORT. 

On the other side are the grandly picturesque headlands of Campobello, 
the island which has recently become so well known as an American sum- 
mer-resort, particularly affected by the best people of Boston and Cam- 
bridge. A more tl»rough account of this localitj^ is found on page 30 a, 
hereinafter. 



The earliest settlement on the Bay was established about 1770, by the Campo- 
bello Coir.panj% and was located at Harbor dc Lute, on Campobeilo Island It was 
named Warrington, but the Welebpool settlement has long since surpassed it. The 
island was for some time the property of Capt. Owen, of the Royal Navy, to whom 
the residents paid tenants' dues. At certain stages of the tide, Lrxstport can only 
be approached by passing around Campobello, concerning which Mr. 'VVamer in- 
dulges in the following pleasantry : " The possession by the British of the island of 
Campobello is an insufTerablo menace and impertinence. I write with a full knowl- 
edge of what war is. We ought to instantly dislodge the British from Campobello. 
It entirely shuts up and commands our harbor, — one of our chief Eastern har- 
bors and war stations, where we keep a flag and cannon and some soldiers, and 
where the customs officers look out for smuggling. There is no way to get into our 
own harbor, except in favorable circumstances of the tide, without begging the 
courtesy of a passage through British waters. Why is England permitted to stretch 
along down our coast in this straggling and inquisitive manner ? She might almost 
as well own Long Island. It was im.possiblc to prevent our cheeks mantling with 
shame as we thought of this, and saw ourselves, free American citizens, landlocked 
by alien soil in our own harbor. We ought to have war, if war is necessary to pos- 
sess Campobello and Deer Islands, or else we ought to give the British Eastport. I 
am not sure but the latter would be the better course." 



Eastport (^Passamaquodcly House, $2M a day; Island Rouse, $2) is 
an American border-town, on the coast of Maine, and has 4,200 inhabi- 
tants and 8 churches. It is built on the slope of a hill at the E. end of 
Moose Island, in Passaraaqiioddy Bay, and is engaged in the fisheries and 
the coasting-trade. Over the village are the ramparts of Fort Sullivan, 
a garrisoned post of the United States, commanding the harbor with its 
artillery. Eastport is much visited in summer for the sake of the salt- 
water fishing and the unique marine scenery in the vicinity, and has sev- 
eral reputable boarding-houses. It is connected with the mainland by a 
bridge, over which lies the road to the Indian village. Eastport is the 
most convenient point from v'hich to reach Campobello, Grand IManan 
(see Route 4), and the adjacent islands. A steam-ferry runs hence in 3 M. 
to Lubec [Lubec House, CohscooTc Hotel), a picturesque marine village to- 
wards Quoddy Head, with advantages for summer residents. This pleasant 
little place is decaying slowly, having lost over 400 inhabitants between 
1860 and 1870. The present population is a little over 2,000. Lubec is 
1 M. farther E. than Eastport, and is therefore the easternmost toAvn of 
the United States. The purple cliflfs of Grand Manan are seen from 
Quoddy Head. 



EASTPORT. Routes. 27 

In 1684 the Passamaquoddy islands were granted by the King of France to Jean 
Sarreau de St. Aubin. In the summer of 1704 the few French settlers about Passa- 
maquoddy Bay were plundered by an expedition under Col Church, consisting of 
600 Massachusetts soldiers, escorted by the men-of-war Jersey, 48, and Gosfiort, 32. 
They ascended the St. Croix as far as the head of navigation, then returned 'and 
crossed the bay to ravage the Minas settlements. They visited Moose Island and 
the adjacent main, and carried off all the settlers as prisoners. Eighteen years later 
a Boston ship was captured by the Indians among these islands, but was retaken by 
its crew when a fair wind arose. In 1744 Massachusetts declared war against the 
Indians on this bay and on -the St. John lliver; and in 1760 the tribes sued for 
peace, sending hostages to Boston. In 1734 Gov. Belcher (of Mass.) visited the 
bay, and in 1750 and 1762 its shores and islands were regularly surveyed. 

During the War of the Revolution the Passamaquoddy Indians were loj'al to 
the United States, and declined all offers from the British agents. The boundary 
question began to assume great importance after the close of the war. The treaty 
stipulated that the St. Croix River should form the frontier ; but Massachusetts 
supported by the Indians, claimed that the Magaguadavic was the true St. Croix ;' 
■while Great Britain asserted and proved that the outlet of the Schoodic Lakes was 
the veritable river. The islands were surrendered to Britain ; but Moose, Dudley 
and Frederick Islands were restored to the United States in 1818. ' 

Eastport was founded about 1784, by fishermen from the coast of Essex County, 
Mass., who settled here on account of the facilities for catching and curing fish. In 
1808 the walls of Fort Sullivan were raised, and a detachment of troops was sta- 
tioned there. In 1813 the valuable British vessel, the Eliza Ann, was captured by 
the privateer Timothy Pickering: and sent into Eastport. She Avas followed by 
H. M. S. Martiii, whose comniander demanded her surrender, on pain of destroying 
the town. The citizens refused to release the prize, and the Martin opened fire on 
Eastport, but was soon driven away by the guns of the fort. July 11, 1814, a Brit- 
ish fleet appeared off the town, and informed the commander that if he did not haul 
down his flag within five minutes they would bombard the town. The flag came 
down, the garrison laid down their arms, and the hostile fleet, headed by fho^Rami- 
lies, 74, anchored off the town. British martial law was enforced here for the next 
four years, after which the place was restored to the United States. 



The river-steamboat, in ascending the baj, runs for some distance 
between Deer Isle and Moose Island. At about 5 M. from Eastport, 
Pleasant Point (known to the Indians as Syhaik) is seen on the 1. Here 
is the chief settlement of the Passamaquoddy Indians, who were driven 
from the peninsula of St. Andrews nearly a century ago, and received 
their present domain from the American government. They are about 400 
in number, and draw an annuity and a school-fund from the Republic, 

They are the remnant of the ancient Openango tribe of the Etchemin nation, and 
they cling tenaciously to the faith delivered unto them of old by the Jesuits. Their 
church is dedicated to St. Anne, and is served by Indian deacons ; and the pictu- 
resque cemetery is in the same vicinity. They support themselves by hunting, fish- 
ing, and basket-making, and their favorite amusement is dancing, for which they 
have built a hall. There are scarcely any pure-blooded Indians here, but the 
adulteration has been made with a choicer material than among the other tribes 
since these are mostly French half-breeds, in distinction from the negro half-breeds 
of the lower coasts. Many years ago there was a controversy about the chieftaincy, 
in consequence of which a portion of the tribe seceded, and are now settled on the 
Schoodic Lakes. 

The name Passamaquoddy is said to be derived from Pesmo-acadie, " pollock- 
place " Others say that Quoddy means "pollock"; but Father Vetromile, the 
scholarly Jesuit missionary, claims that the whole word is a corruption of the Indian 
Peskamaquonlilc, derived from Peskadaminkkanti, a term which signifies "it eoes 
Up into the open field." 



28 Routed. GRAND MANAN. 

As the bay is entered, above Pleasant Point, the West Isles are seen 
opening on the r., displaying a great variety of forms and combinations. 
On the 1. are the pleasant shores of Perry, and far across, to the r., are the 
highlands about the Magaguadavic Eiver. After passing Navy Island, the 
boat rounds in at St. Andrews. 

St. Andrews, the St. Croix River, and St. Stephen, see pages 33-36. 

4. Grand Manan. 

This " paradise of cliffs " is situated off Quoddy Head, about 7 M. from the 
Maine coast, and pertains to the Province of New Brunswick. It is easily reached 
from Eastport (dviring fair winds), with which it has a mail communication. The 
Bummer climate would be delicious were it not for the fogs ; and it is claimed that 
invalids suffering from gout and dyspepsia receive much benefit here (very likely 
from the enforced abstinence from rich food). The brooks and the manj' fresh- 
water ponds afford fair trouting and bird-shooting, and a few deer and rabbits are 
found in the woods. There are no bears nor reptiles on the island. There is a 
small inn at Grand Harbor, but the sojourner will prefer to get board in some of 
the private houses. Neat rooms and simple fare may there be obtained for $ 4 - 7 a 
■week. 

" As we advanced, Manan gradually rose above the waves and changed its aspect, 
the flat-topped purple wall being transmuted into brown, rugged, perpendicular 
cliffs, crowned with dark green foliage. Passing, as we did, close in by the extreme 
northern point, we were impressed by its beauty and grandeur, which far exceeds 
even that of the cliffs at Mount Desert. 

" As a place of summer resort, Grand Manan is in some respects unequalled. At 
certain seasons the fog is abundant, yet that can be endured. Here the opportuni- 
ties for recreation are unequalled, and all persons fond of grand sea-shore views 
may indulge their taste without limit. The people are invariably kind and trust- 
worthy, and American manners aud customs prevail to such an extent that travel- 
lers at once feel at home." (Db Costa.) 

The island of Grand Manan is 22 M. long and 3-6 M. wide, and lies in 
the mouth of the Bay of Fundy, whose powerful tides sweep impetuously 
by its shores. It has about 2,700 inhabitants, who dwell along the road 
which connects the harbors on the E. shore, and are famous for their dar- 
ing and expertness in the fisheries. They have 10 schools, 8 churches (5 
Free-Will Baptist, and 2 Church of England); while the advantages of 
free-trade, insignificant taxation, government-built roads, and complete 
self-legislation, give reason for the apostrophe, " Happy Mananites, who, 
free from grinding taxation, now rove out from rock-bound coves, and 
quarry at will in the silvery mines of the sea! " The harbors on the E. 
shore afford safe shelter for small vessels, and are connected with the 
gi-eat cliff's on the W. by narrow roads through the woods. The fisheries 
of cod, herring, and haddock are very extensive in this vicinity, and form 
the chief resource of the people, who are distinguished for the quaint sim- 
plicity which usually pertains to small and insulated maritime communi- 
ties. Grand Manan has been for many years a favorite resort for Amer- 
ican marine painters, who find excellent studies in its picturesque cliffs 
and billowy seas. It was visited by Champlain in 1605, but was occupied 
only by the Indians for 180 years after. Col. Allan, the American com- 
mander in E. Maine during the Revolution, held the island with his Indian 



GRAND MANAN. Route If. 29 

auxiliaries, but it was finally ceded to Great Britain. After the war it 
was settled by several Loyalists from Massachusetts, chief among whom 
was Moses Gerrish. A recent writer demands that the island be fortified 
and developed, claiming that its situation, either for commerce or war, 
is strategically as valuable as those of the Isle of Man, Guernsey, and 
Jersey, and that it would make a fine point of attack against Portland 
and the coast of Maine. 

Grand Harbor is the chief of the island hamlets, and is situated on the 
safe and shallow bay of the same name. It has an Episcopal church of 
stone and two or three stores, besides a small inn. Off shore to the S. E. 
lie Ross, Cheyne, and White Head Islands, on the latter of which Audu- 
bon studied the habits of the herring-gulls, in 1833. To the E. are the 
rock-bound shores of Nantucket Island, and on the S. are the Grand 
Ponds. 

The South Shore is reached by a good road leading down from Grand 
Harbor. At 5 M. distance is the narrow harbor of Seal Cove, beyond 
which the road lies nearer to the sea, affording fine marine views on the 
1., including the Wood Islands and the Gannet Rock Lighthouse, 9-10 
M. at sea. 4 M. beyond Seal Cove the road reaches Broad Cove, whence 
a path leads across the downs for about 2 M. to the high and ocean- 
viewing cliffs of S. W. Head. Among the rugged and surf-beaten rocks 
of this bold promontory is one which is called the Old Maid, from its 
rude resemblance to a colossal woman. About the S. W. Head is a favor- 
ite resort and breeding-place of the gulls, whose nests are made in the 
grass. A forest -path leads N. to Bradford's Cove, on the W. shore, a 
wide bight of the sea in which the ship Mavourneen was wrecked. 

The North Shore. The road from Grand Harbor to Whale Cove is 7-8 
M. loug, and is firm and well-made. 14 M. N. of Grand Harbor, Wood- 
ward's Cove is passed, with its neat hamlet, 4 M. beyond which is Flagg's 
Cove. Sprague's Cove is a pretty fishing-hamlet on the S. side of Swal- 
low-Tail Head, where "everything appears to have been arranged for 
artistic effect. The old boats, the tumble-down storehouses, the pic- 
turesque costumes, the breaking sui'f, and all the miscellaneous para- 
phernalia of such a place, set off as they are by the noble background 
of richly-colored cliff's, produce an effect that is as rare as beautiful." 
Swallow-Tail Head is a fan-shaped peninsula, surrounded by wave-worn 
cliff's, and swept by gales from every quarter. On its outer point is a 
lighthouse which holds a fixed light (visible for 17 M.) 148 ft. above 
the sea. 

Whale Cove is on the N. E. shore, and is bordered by a shingle-beach 
on which are found bits of porphyry, agate, jasper, and other minei'als. 
" Here the view is surprisingly fine, the entire shore being encircled by 
immense cliffs that rise up around the border of the blue waves, with a 
richness of color and stateliness of aspect that cannot fail to impress the 



30 Routes. GEAND MANAN. 

beholder On the E. side is Fish Head, and on the W. Eel Brook and 

Northern Head, the latter extending out beyond its neighbor, and be- 
tween are the blue sky and water." On the melancholy cliffs at Eel 
Brook Cove the ship Lord Ashburton was wrecked, and nearly all on 
board were lost (21 of them are buried at Flagg's Cove). Beyond this 
point, and near the extreme northern cape, is the Bishop^s Head, so called 
because of a vague profile in the face of the cliff. 

The W. coast of Grand Manan is lined with a succession of massive cliffs, 
which appear from West Quoddy like a long and unbroken purple wall. 
These great precipices are 3-400 ft. high (attaining their greatest eleva- 
tion at the N. end), and form noble combinations of marine scenery. A 
cart-track leads across the island from near Woodward's Cove to the ro- 
mantic scenery about Darh Cove ; near which is Money Cove, so named 
because search has been made there for some of Capt. Kidd's buried 
treasures. To the N. is Indian Beach, where several lodges of the Passa- 
maquoddy tribe pass the summer, attending to the shore fishery of por- 
poises. Still farther N. are the rocky palisades and whirling currents of 
Long's Eddy. 

" When the cliff is bronght out on such a stupendous scale as at Grand Manan, 
■with all the accessories of a wild ocean shore, the interest becomes absorbing. The 
other parts of the island are of course invested with much interest. The low eastern 
shore, fringed with small islands and rocks, affords many picturesque sights. In a 
pleasant day a walk southward has many charms. The bright sky, the shingle 
beach, the picturesque boats, and blue land-locked bays continually enforce the 
admiration of an artistic eye, and allure the pedestrian on past cape, cove, and 
reach, until he suddenly finds that miles of ground intervene between him and his 
dinner." (De Costa.) 

" Grand Manan, a favorite summer haunt of the painter, is the very throne of 
the bold and romantic. The high precipitous shores, but for the woods which beau- 
tify them, are quite in the style of Labrador." (L. L. Noble.) 



Charlevoix speaks of an old-time wonder which seems to have passed away from 
these shores : " It is even asserted that at | of a league ofiF Isle Menane, which serves 
as a guide to vessels to enter St. John's River, there is a rock, almost always cov- 
ered by the sea, which is of lapis-lazuli. It is added that Commander de Razilli 
broke off a piece, which he sent to France, and Sieur Denys, who had seen it, says 
that it was valued at ten crowns an ounce." 



"But, interesting as are all parts of this picturesque island, the climax of solitary 
■wildness and grandeur is to be found only in the ' Great (or Gull) Cliffs,' at Southern 
Head. Landing from the Eastport steamer, either at Flagg's or at Woodward's Cove, 
let us charter an open vehicle and ride down the island. The smooth brown road 
skirts along the E. shore for the mo?t part, showing us in succession the half-dozen 
peaceful fi.shing-hamlets which contain its entire population, with their seven neat 
churches and their remarkably handsome and commodious schoolhouses. After 3 
hrs. delightful drive, we arrive at 'Harvey's,' a very small but most home- 
like cottage inn. Alighting here, let us take the picturesque path that leads to 
the ' Great (or Gull) Cliffs.' For the first i M. the path takes us across elevated 
pasture-land, showing us the open sea upon three sides. For another quarter it 
plunges into a dense forest, and presently descends to the edge of the water, which 
it reaches at a little stony level known as ' Southern Head Beach.' Crossing this, 
and skirting the S. W. coast, we soon commence rising with the rising shore, until 
at the end of a short mile we emerge from the shrubbery to find ourselves on the 
top of ' Hay Point,' gazing perpendicularly down at the sea,, which dashes, at the 



CAMPOBELLO. Route 78. 30 a 

base of the cliff over which we lean, some 250 feet below! A few rods further on, 
anil we come to the new Southern Head Lighthouse. From hence for a mile fur- 
ther we pace along the deeply indented edge of this dizzy height, as upon a lofty 
esplanade, enjoying its solitary grandeur, enhanced by the wild screams of hun- 
dreds of circling sea gulls, until at last we arrive opposite the ' Old Maid.' " 

A stanch steaniboat runs between Eastport and Grand Manan, con- 
necting with the International steamships from Boston at Eastport, and 
crossing to the island in 2 lirs. There is a good pier at Flagg's Cove 
(iSTorth Head). Two small but comfortable hotels have been erected near 
North Head (the Marble-Ridge House); and Grand Manan has latterly 
grown rapidly in public favor. A submarine cable runs hence to Eastport. 
There are 5 telegraph-offices on the island. There are also several livery 
stables, and good roads. Complete immunity from hay-fever is enjoyed 
here. Myriads of gulls and stormy petrels breed on the adjacent islets. 

78. Campobello. 

Small steamboats run from Eastport to Campobello hourly. 

The O^ven is an Eesthetic summer-hotel, composed of the old Owen mansion, 
devoted to office, billiard-room, bitchen, and dining-room, and the main building, 
a huge modern erection, containing parlors and chambers, and connected with the 
old mansion by a long open corridor. The surrounding grounds are pleasantly laid 
out, and contain the old porter's lodge, sun-dial. Lovers' Lane, and the Admiral's 
hawthorn hedges. 

The Tyn-y-Cr>edcl (House in the Wood) is another large summer-hotel, per- 
taining to the Campobello Company, and devoted mainly to the accommodation of 
families, being quieter and more secluded than the Owen. 

Campobello is an island 8 M. by 3 in area, Ij'ing off the Bay of Fundy, 
and pertaining to the Province of ISTew Brunswick. It has 1,160 inhabi- 
tants, most of whom live in two villages, — WeU hjjool, on a pretty harbor 
to the N., and Wilson's Beach, a populous fishing-settlement on the S. 
shore, settled by squatters, in defiance of the Owens, who frequently 
burned their houses and schooners, but were finally obliged to allow them 
to stay. The fine old Owen roads across the island have been extended 
by new highways opened by the Campobello Compniy, and afford beauti- 
ful drives across the breezy uplands, through leagues of silent evergreen 
forests, and out on sea-beaten promontories. There are a few profitable 
farms on the island, and minerals are found in the hills and glens ; but the 
chief source of income is the fishing business. 

The Episcopal Church is ultra-Anglican, with its imported vicar praying 
for the Queen and all the Royal Family, with the usual English intonation ; 
its great chancel-carpet, embroidered by the ladies of New Brunswick, with 
the three feathers of the Prince of Wales; and its rich altar-cloths, pre- 
sented by Sister Portia, Admiral Owen's granddaughter. The only other 
church on the island is Baptist. The chief local holidays are the Queen's 
Birthday and Dominion Day (July 1). 

Glea Severn (the ancient Herring Cove) is a lovely cove on the outer 



30 h Route 78. CAMPOBELLO. 

shore, with brilliant-hued pebbles, craggy headlands, and a contiguous 
lake of fresh water. Friar'' s Head, within 1^ M. of the Owen, is a rocky 
pillar in the sea, off cliffs 146 ft. high, and badly battered by artillery. 
Eastern Head, Harbor de Lute, the lighthouses at the ends of the island, 
and other interesting points, are visited by summer-sojourners. The west- 
ern side of Campobello fronts on the beauties of Passamaquoddy Bay, 
around which appear Lubec, Eastport, and other white villages, with the 
purple hills of New Brunswick in the distance. 

Campobello, the ancient Passamaquoddy Island, was granted by the British 
Crown to Admiral William Fitzwilliam Owen in 1767, and that gentleman and his 
heirs, of a noble nayal family, occupied the domain for moi-e than a hundred years. 
Tne Admiral built a quarter deck over the rocks, oh which he used to promenade 
in full uniform. He was buried by candle-light, in the churchyard of the little 
Epi.-copal church, where his descendants have since followed him. There are num- 
berless quaint legends of the old regime here ; of Sir Robert Peel's visit, and the 
advent of Britis.h frigates ; of mysterious wrecks, pirates, apparitions, and other 
marvels. 

After Admiral Owen died, the estate fell to his son-in-law, Captain Robinson, of 
the Royal Navy, who thereupon assumed the Owen name and settled upon the island. 
Tliere was great excitement here in 1866, when many armed Irish patriots came to 
Eastport, apparently with a design of invading Campobello, and twisting the tail of 
the British lion. The island was nearly deserted by its inhabitants ; British frig- 
ates and American cutters cruised in the adj-icent waters ; St. Andrews and St. 
Stephen were garri.^oned by British troops; and General Meade occupied Eastport 
with a detachment of United States regulars. The last of the Owens moved to Eng- 
land, tired of the monotonous life of the old manor-house, and in 1880 Campobello 
was purchased by a syndicate of Boston and New York capitalists, to be made into a 
summer-resort. Besides the great hotels, many summer-cottages and villas are being 
erected here by well-known famihes from Boston, Cambridge, and other cities. 

The new development of this remote island as a summer-resort has been 
rapid and secure, and already Campobello bids fair to become a formidable 
rival of Mount Desert, in a fashionable point of view, although its scenery 
is in almost every Avay inferior. The novel and original architecture and 
equipments of the great hotels, and the attractiveness of their grounds and 
surroundings combine with the insular and provincial quaintnesses of the 
islanders to make a sojourn here very interesting. 



BAY OF FUNDY. Routed. 31 

After leaving the harbor of St. John the steamer runs S. W. by W. 9J 
M., passing the openings of Manawagonish Bay and Pisarinco Cove. The 
course is laid well out in the Bay of Fundy, which " wears a beautiful 
aspect in fine summer weather, — a soft chalky hue quite different from 
the stern blue of the sea on the Atlantic shores, and somewhat approach- 
ing the summer tints of the channel on the coast of England." Beyond 
the point of Split Rock, Musquash Harbor is seen opening to the N. It is 
a safe and beautiful haven, 2 M. long and very deep, at whose head is the 
pretty Episcopal village of Musquash (Musquash Hotel), with several lum- 
ber-mills. About two centuries ago a French war-vessel was driven into 
this harbor and destroyed by a British cruiser. From Split Rock the 
course is W. \ S. for \\\ M. to Point Lepreau, passing the openings of 
Chance Harbor and Dipper Harbor, in which are obscure marine hamlets. 
In the latter, many years ago, the frigate Plumper w^as wrecked, with a 
large amount of specie on board. The harbor is now visited mostly by 
lobster-fishers. Point Leqyrecm is a bold and tide-swept promontory, on 
which are two fixed lights, visible for 18 and 20 M. at sea. 

The traveller will doubtless be amazed at the rudeness and sterility of these frown- 
ing shores. " Two very different impressions in regard to the Province of New 
Brunswick will be produced on the mind of the stranger, according as he contents 
himself with visiting the towns and inspecting the lands which lie along the sea- 
board, or ascends its rivers, or penetrates by its numerous roads into the interior of 
its more central and northern counties. In the former case he will feel like the 
traveller who enters Sweden by the harbors of Stockholm and Gottenburg, or who 
sails among the rocks on the western coast of Norway. The naked cliffs or shelving 
shores of granite or other hardened rocks, and the unvarying pine forests, awaken 
in his mind ideas of hopeless desolation, and poverty and barrenness appear neces- 
sarily to dwell within the iron-bound shores But on the other hand, if the 

stranger penetrate beyond the Atlantic shores of the Province and travel tlirovigh 
the interior, he will be struck by the number and beauty of its rivers, by the fertility 
of its river islands and intervales, and by the great extent and excellent condition 
of its roads." (Prof. J. F. W. Johnston, P. R. S.) 

From Point Lepreau the course is laid nearly W. for 16^ M. to Bliss 
Island, crossing the bight of Mace's Bay, a wide and shallow estuary in 
which are two fishing-hamlets. The Saturday steamer stops on this reach 
at Beaver Harbor, a place of 150 inhabitants. S. of this harbor, and seen 
on the 1. of the course, are the five black and dangerous islets called the 
Wolves, much dreaded by navigators. A vessel of the International Steam- 
ship Company was wrecked here two or three years ago. One of the 
Wolves bears a revolving light, 111 ft. high, and visible for 16 M. 

The steamer now rounds Bliss Island (which has a fixed red light), and 
to the N. is seen the entrance to V Etang Harbor, a deep and picturesque 
inlet which is well sheltei'ed by islands, the largest of which is called Cai- 
tiff. A few miles S. W. are seen the rolling hills of Campobello; Deer 
Island is nearer, on. the W. ; and the bay is studded with weird-looking 
hummocky islands, — the Nubble, White, and Spruce Islands, the grim 
trap-rock mamelon of White Horse, and many other nameless rocks. 
They are known as the West Isles, and most of them are inhabited by 
hard-working fishermen. 



32 Route 5. ST. GEORGE. 

St. George (three inns), a village of 1,200 inhabitants devoted to the 
lumber and granite trades, is at the head of the tide, 4 M. from the ship- 
harbor below, and stands on both sides of the Magaguadavic, at the 
Lower Falls, where the river is compressed into a chasm 30 ft. wide, and 
falls about 50 ft. These falls in several steps furnish a water-power un- 
surpassed in Canada, and along the sides of the gorge, clinging to the 
rocks like eagles' nests, are several mills in which lumber and granite are 
manufactured. Geologists have found in this vicinity marked evidences of 
the action of icebergs and glaciers. The gorge through which the waters 
rush with an almost Niagara roar has been caused by some convulsion of 
nature, which in its mighty throes rent the cliffs asunder, giving vent to 
what must have been a great lake above. This district has become cele- 
brated for its production of a fine granite of a rose-red color which receives a 
high polish, and is extensively used for ornamental columns and monu- 
ments. It is pronounced by competent judges to be superior to the Scotch 
granite of Peterhead (popularly called "Aberdeen Granite"), and is 
beautifully tinted. The construction of the Grand Southern Eailway 
affords improved facilities for visiting this interesting locality. 

" The Tillage, the cataract, the lake, and the elevated -wilderness to the N., render 
this part of the country peculiarly picturesque ; indeed, the neighborhood of St. 
George, the Digdeguash, Chamcook, and the lower St. Croix, present the traveller 
•with some of the finest scenery in America." (Dr. Gesner.) 

liake Utopia is picturesquely situated in a deep and sheltered depression, 
along -whose slopes ledges of red gr;-nite crop out. It is about 1 M. from St. 
George, and 6 M. long, and connects -with the Magaguada-vic River 3 M. above 
the village, by a natural canal 1 M. long, -which is -well bordered by magnificent 
forest trees, and furnishes a beautiful resort for boating parties, sportsmen, and 
anglers eoi route to the Lake. The earliest pioneers found the remains of an ancient 
and mysterious temple, all traces of -which "have now passed away. Here also was 
found a slab of red granite, bearing a large bas-relief of a human head, in style re- 
sembling an Egyptian sculpture, and having a likeness to Washington. This re- 
markable medallion has been placed in the Natural History Museum at St. John. 
For nearly 40 years the Indians and lumbermen near the lake have told mai'vellous 
stories of a marine prodigy called " the Monster of Utopia," which dwells in this 
fair forest-loch. His last appearance was in 1867, when several persons about the 
shores claimed to have seen furious disturbances of the waters, and to have caught 
momentary glimpses of an animal 10 ft. thick and 30 ft. long. The lake abounds in 
silvery -graj' trout, and its tributary streams contain many brook-trout and smelt. 

Among the hills along the valley of the Magaguadavic River are the favorite haunts 
of large numbers of Virginian deer. Moose were formerly abundant in this region, 
and it is but a few years since over 400 were killed in one season, for the sake of their 
hides. This noble game animal has been nearly exterminated by the merciless set- 
tlers, and ^Yill soon Ibecome extinct in this district. 

The Magaguadavic Kiver (an Indian name meaning " The River of the 
Hills ") rises in a chain of lakes over 80 M. N. W., within a short portage of the 
Sheogomoc River, a tributary of the upper St. Jchn. Traversing the great Lake 
of Magaguadavic it descends through an uninhabited and barren highland region, 
tersely described by an early pioneer as " a scraggly hole." Much of its lower valley 
is a wide intervale, which is supposed to have been an ancient lake-bottom. The 
river is followed closely by a rugged road, which leads to the remote Ilarvey and 
Magaguadavic settlements. 

After leaving the port of St. George, the steamer runs S. W. across 

Passamaquoddy Bay, with the West Isles and the heights of Deer Island 

on the S., and other bold hummo#ks on either side. On the N. are the 



ST. ANDREWS., Route 5. 33 

estuaries of the Digdeguash and Bocabec Rivers, and the massive ridge 
of the Chamcook Mt. 

St. Andrews {Central Exchange, $1.50 a day), the capital of Chariotte 
County, is finely situated on a peninsula at the mouth of the St. Croix 
River, which is here 2 M. wide. It has about 1,800 inhabitants, and a few 
quiet old streets, surrounded by a broad belt of farms. The town was 
founded about a century ago, and soon acquired considerable commercial 
importance, and had large fleets in its harbor, loading with timber for 
Great Britain and the West Indies. This era of prosperity was ended by 
the rise of the town of St. Stephen and by the operation of the Reciprocity 
Treaty, and for many years St. Andrews has been retrograding, until now 
the wharves are deserted and dilapidated, and the houses seem antiquated 
and neglected. It has recently attracted summer visitors, on account of 
the pleasant scenery and the facilities for boating, fishing, and excur- 
sions. 

St. Andrews was once strongly fortified by the British Government, and 
some remains of these works, still exist. It is hoped that the Canadian 
Pacific Railway, which is now building across Maine, from Lake Megan- 
tic by Moosehead, will make its chief winter-port here. Fogs are very 
rare; summer nights are cool; and the environs are lovely. The town 
is laid out in square blocks, and the streets are wide and kept in good 
order. The roads are excellent for driving, and from many points give 
picturesque views. The public buildings are the court-house, jail, rec- 
ord ofiice, and marine hospital; and there are a number of neat private 
residences, including that of Sir Leonard Tilley, K. C. B., Finance Min- 
ister of the Dominion. Of churches it has Presbyterian, Methodist, 
Baptist, Roman Catholic, and Church of England. The "Argvll" a 
large structure, with rooms for 200 guests, was opened in 1881 as a 
summer-hotel. It is pleasantly located on elevated ground, and con- 
venient to the beaches, where the facilities for sea-bathing are unrivalled. 

Trains of the New Brunswick Railway run to and from St. Andrews, connecting 
with trains for Woodstock, Iloulton, St. John, Bangor, Portland, and Boston. 
Steamboats run daily between St. Andrews, Calais, Eastport, and Campobello, 
connecting at Eastport with steamers for St. John, Grand Manan, Portland and 
Boston. 

The Chamcook Mt. is about 4 M. N. of St. Andrew, and its base is 
reached by a good road (visitors can also go by railway to the foot of the 
mountain). It is often ascended by. parties for the sake of the view, 
which includes "the lovely Passamaquoddy Bay, with its little islands 
and outline recalling recollections of the Gulf of Naples as seen from the 
summit of Vesuvius, whilst the scenery toward the N. is hilly, with 
deep troughs containing natural tarns, where trout are plentiful." 

As the steamer swings out into the river, the little ship-building village 
of Robbinston is seen, on the American shore. On the r. the bold bluffs of 



34 Routes. ST. CROIX RIVER. 

Chamcook Mt. are passed, and occasional farm-houses are seen along the 
shores. 6-6 M. above St. Andrews, the steamer passes on the E. side of 
Doucet's Island, on which a lighthouse has been ei-ected by the Ameri- 
can government. W. of the island is the village of Red Beach, with its 
plaster-mills, and on the opposite shore is the farming settlement of Bay 
Shore. 

In the year 1604 Henri TV. of France granted a large part of America to Pierre du 
Guast, Sieur de Monts, and Governor of Pons. This tract extended from Phila- 
delphia to Quebec, and was named Acadie, which is said to be derived from a local 
Indian word. De Monts sailed from Havre in April, with a motley company of im- 
pressed vagabonds, gentlemen-adventurers, and Huguenot and Catholic clergymen, 
the latter of whom quarrelled all the way over. .After exploring parts of Nova 
Scotia and the Bay of Fundy, the voyagers ascended the Passamaquoddy Bay and 
the river to St. Croix Isle, where it was determined to found a settlement. Bat- 
teries were erected at each end, joined by palisades, within which were the houses 
of De Monts and Champlain, workshops, magazines, the chapel, and the barracks of 
the Swiss soldiery. But the winter soon set in with its intense cold, and the rav- 
ages of disease were added to the miseries of the colonists. 35 out of 79 men died 
of the scurvy during the winter; and when a supply-ship arrived from France, in 
June, the island was abandoned. 

" It is meet to tell you how hard the isle of Sainte Croix is to be found out to 
them that never were there ; for there are so many isles and great bays to go by 
(from St. John) before one be at it, that I wonder how one might ever pierce so far 
as to find it. There are three or four mountains imminent above the others, on the 
sides ; but on the N. side, from whence the river runneth down, there is but a sharp 
pointed one, above two leagues distant. The woods of the main land are fair and 
admirable high, and well grown, as in like manner is the grass Now let us pre- 
pare and hoist sails. M. de Poutrincourt made the voyage into these parts, with 
some men of good sort, not to winter there, but as it were to .eeek out his seat, and 
find out a land that might like him. AVhich he having done, had no need to sojourn 
there any longer." Late in the year, " the most urgent things being done, and 
hoary snowy father being come, that is to say, Winter, then they were forced to 
keep within doors, and to live every one at his own home. During which time our 
men had three special discommodities in this island : want of wood (for that which 
was in tlie said isle was spent in buildings), lack of fresh water, and the continual 
■watch made by night, fearing some surprise from the savages that had lodged them- 
selves at the foot of the said island, or some other enemy. For the malediction and 
rage of many Christians is such, that one must take heed of them, much more than 
of infidels." (Lescarbot's Noi/velle France.) 

In 1783 the river St. Croix was designated as the E. boundary of Maine, but the 
Americans claimed that the true St. Croix was the stream called the Magaguadavic. 
It then became important to find traces of De Monts's settlement of 180 years pre- 
vious, as that would locate the true St. Croix River. So, after long searching among 
the bushes and jungle, the boundary -commissioners succeeded in finding remnants 
of the ancient French occupation on Neutral (Doucet's) Island, and thus fixed the 
line. 

About 10 M. above St. Andrews the river deflects to the W., and to the 
N. is seen the deep and spacious * Oak Bay, surrounded b}' bold hills, and 
forming a benutiful and picturesque prospect. It is supposed that the 
French explorers named the St. Croix River from the resemblance of its 
waters at this point to a cross, — the upright arm being formed by the 
river to the S. and Oak Bay to the N., while the horizontal arm is outlined 
by the river to the W. and a cove and creek on the E. At the head of the 
bay is the populous farming-village of Oah Bay, with three churches. 

Rounding on the 1. the bold bluff called DeiiPs Head (from one Duval, 
who formerly lived there), the^ourse is laid to the N. W., in a narrow 



ST. STEPHEN.' Route 5. 35 

channel, between ster'^^ ^^^^^^^^ 2-3 M. above is the antiauated marine 
hamlet called The Le ^^^ ^^^^^^^ ^^^^^^ ^^ ^^.^^^^^ inhabitants are depend- 
ent on the sea for thc^.^ j.^,.^^_ ^ ^^ ^^^^^,^ ^^^.^ .^^ ^^^^ ^^g^,^,^, reaches 

her dock at St. Stepl " 

en. 

St. Stephen (<2we^ Hotel) is an active and enterprising provincial 
town, situated at ^[^^^^^^^ ^f navigation on the St. Croix River, opposite 
the American citv ^^ ^^^^.^^ r^^^ population is about 5,000, with 6 
churches, 1 uewsi:! ^^^ 2 banks. The business of St. Stephen is 

mostly connected ';^..^^' ^^^ j^^nufacture and shipment of lumber. The 
falls of the river . ^ ^^^.^ ^^.^^ ^.^.^ ^ valuable water-power, which will 
probably be devotea ^^ ^^^^^^.^^ manufacturing purposes after the lumber 
supply begins to fail. . , ^^^.^^^^ ^^-^^^^^ connects St. Stephen with Calais 
{The American House ; &i. ^^.^^ Exchange), a small citv of the State of 
Maine, with 6,000 inhabitants, ^ ^Xxmc\iQ^, 2 weeklv papers, and 2 banks. 
Although under different flags, ai ,^ .^p.^.-.^ted bv lines of customs-officers, 
St. Stephen and Calais form practic.^n^, ^^^ ^^; coramunitv, with identi- 
cal pursuits and interests. , Their citizt.^g j^^^.^ ^i,,,.,,.^ y^^.^^^ j^ ^^^.f^^^ 
fraternity, and formed and kept an agreen ^^^^^ ^^^ which^thev abstained 
from hostilities during the War of 1812. At' ^j^.^^ [-^^^^^ ^^^^ authorities also 
restrained the restless spirits from the back cOu.,^|.j.^. from acts of violence 
across the borders. 2-3 M. above is another Ca iiado-American town 
with large lumber-mills at the falls, which is divide, ^ j^y ^i^q river into 
Milltown-St. Stephen and ]Milltown-Calais. Travellers v,,{jq ^ross the river 
either at Calais or Milltown will have their baggage loU i-^^j [j^^q \)y t^ie 
customs-officers, squads of whom are stationed at the ends ot'.fi^g brid^-es. 

The New Brunswick & Canada Railvray runs N. from St. Stephen to Ht mUon and 
Woodstock (see Route 6). Calais is connected with the Schoodic Lakes Us ~;iwiv 
afld with Eastport by stages. The U. S. Mail-stage runs dailv to Bangor., q^ \f \y 
(fare, $ 7.50), passing through a wide tract of unoccupied wilderness. '30 ^ steam- 
boat le.aves Calais or St. Stephen daily in summer, and semi-weekly in "tsyi^ter for 
Eastport, where it connects with the International steamships for Por :-\^^^ and 
Boston (see also Route 3, and Osgood's Xeic England). Fares, Calais tc Portland 
$ 4.50 ; to Boston, by water, § 5.50 ; to Boston, by rail from Portland, § '? ' 

The Schoodic Lakes. i 

A railway runs 21 il. N. W. from Calais to Lewey^s Isla7id (th) jnns) 
in Princeton, whence the tourist may enter the lovely and pictPlji-esque 
Schoodic Lakes. The steamer Gipsey carries visitors 12 M. up tht^^ \fi^e to 
Grand Lake Stream, one of the most famous fishing-grounds in A ^'\nerica. 
The trout in Lewey's Lake. have been neai'ly exterminated by the v<^ gracious 
pike, but the upper waters are more carefully guarded, and contaif ^•^ perch 
pickerel, land-locked salmon, lake-trout, and ffiie speckled-trour'M. ^he 
Grand Lake Stream is 3 - 4 M. long, and connects the Grand a^^^^d Bio- 
Lakes with its rapid waters, in which are found many of the farar K^^g gji. 
very salmon-trout. The urban parties who visit these forest-lakes *» Usually 
engage Indian guides to do the heavy work of portages and camp \build- 



36 Route 6. SCHOODIC LAKES. 

ing, and to guide their course from lake to lake . , 

of the Passamaquoddy tribe near the foot of Bi/:'? '' ""a ""^^ ^^ ^^^ 

portage leads to Grand Lake, a broad and bea:f'V ^ ^wo hours' 

gravelly shores, picturesque islets, and transpareu , *°'^';-'^^' ^^^^ 

the loon is often heard here, and a few bear and de'^^n't' J f ''^ f 

shores. From Grand Lake a labyrinth of smaller ^""'^ ^^"""^ ^^^ 

lakes may be entered; and porkges conduct then TT"^ ''^?f 

tributaries of the Machias and Penobscot Eivers. ' navigable 

T ',' ^^^r^^. *^® ™°^* picturesque portions of the westPT-n «?n 

Lake This noble sheet of water is broken here and there bvi.""^^^ ^^^5^°° ^^ ^''^^^ 

even to the waters edge, with forests of pine and hard won^'^^''^"'! surrounded, 

covered with granitic bowlders, which, in ?ombSationwirhH-^^^ "^ ^o"o°» ^^ 
wide among the arboreal vegetation around." ^"^ %t, are spread lar and 

And the white trout are leapino- fo J^ake, 
It s exciting sport those beauties"- flies, 
Jogging the nerves and feastir'- take, 

^g the eyes." 

Genio C. Scott. 

6. St Andrews and St. Stephp-. -rrr ^ * i ^ xr i* 
T, ,^ ^, ^ ^"-i to Woodstock and Houlton. 

By the New Brunswick & Canar^ 
stock, $ 2.90. ^a Railway. Fare from St. Stephen to Wood- 

Distances. — St. Andrews t 
Koix Road, 15; Hewitt's, 19; F Chanacook, 5 M. ; Bartlett's. 11; Waweig, 13; 
27 (St. Stephen to Watt Jur^ rolling Dafti, 20: Dumbarton, 24; Watt Junction, 
Junction, 43 ; Deer Lake..af ^tlon, 19) ; Lawrence, 29 ; Barber Dam. 34 ; McAdam 
Junction, 90 (Houlton/&9 ; Canterbury, 65 ; Eel River, 75 ; Wickham, 80 ; Debec 

rp, , 98) ; Hodgdon, 98 ; Woodstock, 101. 

The country tra' ^ ' & » ' 

elate reo-ions in '''^^^^^ ^J *^i^ ^^°® ^^ ^^^ ^f the most irredeemably des- 
sents a conth-""^'^ iS^orth America. The view from the car-windows pre- 
with stumr '^^^^ succession of dead and dying forests, clearings bristling 
The trac -t^^' ^"*^ funereal clusters of blasted and fire-scorched tree-trunks, 
gloomy 1;^^ °^ human habitation, which at wide interv'^als are seen In this 
occupant^^*^' ^^^ cabins of logs, where poverty and toil seem the fittest 
rudely a^^ ' ^'^^ Nature has withheld the hills and lakes with Avhich she 
ume inV^^^^^ other wildernesses. The sanguine Dr. Gesner wrote a vol- 
in lanfiTt'^*'^"^ immigration to New Brunswick, and describing its domains 
in presei^S^ which reaches the outer verge of complaisant optimism; but 
pen los^^*^^ ^^ t^^® lands between the upper St. John and St. Stephen his 
the stre ^*-^ hj'perbolical fervor. He says: " Excepting the intervales of 
general ^"^' '^^ ^^ necessary to speak with circumspection in regard to the 
turage.i.,^^^^^*3^ of the lands. Many tracts are fit for little else but pas- 
soft- wo( ' ^^^^ district is occupied, for the most part, by the remains of 
wood di'^ forests, whose soils are always inferior to those of the hard- 

Yqy iistricts. 
shores ^ short distance beyond St. Andrews the railway lies near the 
the gra^^ Passamaquoddy Bay, affording pleasant views to the r. Then 
rounde- ^^ naass of Chamcook Mt. is passed, with its abrupt sides and 
(see p ^ summit. Waweig is between Bonaparte Lake and Oak Bay 
ige 34). About 7 M. beyond, the line approaches the Digdeguash 



ST. JOHN TO BANGOR. Route?. 37 

River, which it follows to its source. At Watt Junction the St. Stephen 
Branch Railway comes in on the 1., and the train passes on to McAdam 
Junction, where it intersects the European & Noi'th American Railway 
(page 38). There is a restaurant at this station, and the passenger will 
have time to dine while the train is waiting for the arrival of the trains 
from Bangor and from St. John. 

The forest is again entered, and the train passes on for 16 M. until it 
reaches the lumber-station at Deer Lake. The next station is Canter- 
bury (small inn), the centre of extensive operations in lumber. Running 
N. W. for 10 M., the Eel River is crossed near Rankin's Mills, and at 
Debec Junction the passenger changes for Woodstock. 

A train runs thence 8 M. N. W. to Houlton {Snell House, Buzzell House), 
the shire-town of Aroostook County, in the State of Maine (see Osgood's 
New England, Route 50) The other train runs N. E. down the valley of 
the South Brook, and in about 6 M. emerges on the highlands above tho 
valley of the St. John River. For the ensuing 5 M. there are beautiful 
views of the river and its cultivated intervales, presenting a wonderful 
contrast to the dreary regiofi behind. The line soon reaches its terminus 
at the pretty village of Woodstock (see Route 11). 

7. St. John to Bangor. 

By the St. John k Maine "Railwav in 10-12 hrs. 

Distances. — St. John; Carleton, J M. ; Fairville, 4; South Bay, 7; Grand 
Bay, 12; "Westfield, 16; Nerepis,20; Welsford, 26; Clarendon, 30; Gaspereaux, 
33; Enniskillen, 33; Hoyt, 39; Blissville, 42; Fredericton Junction, 46; Tracy, 
49; Cork, 61; Harvey, 66; Magaguadavic , 76; McAdam Junction, 85; St. Croix, 
91; Vanceboro', 92; Jackson Brook, 112; Danforth, 117; Bancroft, 126; King- 
man, 139; Mattawamkeag, 147; Winn, 1.50; Lincoln Centre, 159; Lincoln, 161; 
Enfield, 170; Passadumkeag, 175; Olamon, 179; Greenbush, 182; Costigan, 187', 
Milford, 192; Oldtown,193; Great Works, 194; Webster, 196; Orono, 197; Basin 
Mills, 198 ; Veazie, 201 ; Bangor, 205. (Newport, 233 ; Waterville, 260 ; Augusta, 
281; Brunswick, 315; Portland, 343; Portsmouth, 395; Newburyport, 415; Bos- 
ton, 451.) 

The traveller crosses the Princess St. ferry from St. John to Carleton, 
and takes the train at the terminal station, near the landing. The line 
ascends through the disordered suburb of Carleton, giving from its higher 
grades broad and pleasing views over the citj", the harbor, and the Bay of 
Fundy. It soon reaches Fairville, a growing toAvn near the Provincial 
Lunatic Asylum and the Suspension Bridge. There are numerous lumber- 
mills here, in the coves of the river. The train sweeps around the South 
Bay on a high grade, and soon reaches the Grand Bay of the St. John 
River, beyond which is seen the deep estuary of the Kennebecasis Bay, 
with its environment of dark hills. The shores of the Long Reach are fol- 
lowed for several miles, with beautiful views on the r. over the placid 
river and its vessels and villages (see also page 41). To the W. is a 
sparsely settled and rugged region in which are many lakes, — Loch 
Alva, the Robin Hood, Sherwood, and the Queen's Lakes. 



38 Route?. CHIPUTNETICOOK LAKES. 

The line leaves the Long Reach, and turns to the N. W. up the valley < 
of the Nerepis River, which is followed as far as the hamlet of Welsford 
(small inn). The country now grows very tame and uninteresting, as the 
Douglas Valley is ascended. Clarendon is 7 M. from the Clarendon Set- 
tlement, with its new homes wrested from the savage forest. From Gas- 
pereaux a wagon conve3^s passengers to the South Oromocto Lake, 10 - 12 
M- S. W., among the highlands, a secluded sheet of water about 5 M. long, 
abounding in trout. Beyond the lumber station of Enniskillen, the train 
passes the prosperous village of Blissville ; and at Fredei^icton Junction a 
connection is made for Fredericton, about 20 M. N. 

Tracy's Mills is the next stopping-place, and is a cluster of lumber-mills 
on the Oromocto River, which traverses the village. On either side are 
wide tracts of unpopulated wilderness; and after ci'ossing the parish of 
New Maryland, the line enters Manners Sutton, passes the Cork Settle- 
ment, and stops at the Harvey Settlement, a rugged district occupied by 
families from the borders of England and Scotland. To the N. and N. W. 
are the Bear and Cranberry Lakes, affording good fishing. A road leads 
S. 7-8 M. from Harvey to the Oromocto Lake, a fine sheet of water 
nearly 10 M. long and 3-4 M. wide, where many large trout are found. 
The neigliboring forests contain various kinds of game. Near the N. W. 
shore of the lake is the small hamlet of Tweedside. The Bald Mountain, 
"near the Harvey Settlement, is a great mass of porphyry, with a lake 
(probably in the crater) near the summit. It is on the edge of the coal 
measures, where they touch the slate." 

Magaguadavic station is at the foot of Magaguadavic Lake, which is 
about 8 M. long, and is visited by sportsmen. On its E. shore is the low 
and bristling Magaguadavic Ridge ; and a chain of smaller lakes lies to 
the N. 

The train now runs S. W. to McAdam Junction (restaurant in the sta- 
tion), where it intersects the New Brunswick and Canada Railway (see 
Route 6). 6 M. beyond McAdam, through a monotonous wilderness, is 
St. Croix, on the river of the same name. After crossing the river the 
train enters the United States, and is visited by the customs-officers at 
Vanceboro' ( Chiputneticooh House). This is the station whence the beau- 
tiful lakes of the upper Schoodic may be visited. 

The Cliiputneti cook ILaltes are about 45 M. in length, in a N. W. course, 
and are from y^ to 10 M. in width. Their navigation is very intricate, by reason of 
the multitude of islets and islands, narrow passages, coves, and deep inlets, which 
diversity of land and water affords beautiful combination? of scenery. The islands 
are covered with cedar, hemlock, and birch trees; and the bold highlands which 
shadow the lakes are also well wooded. One of the most remarkable features of the 
scenery is the abundance of bowlders and ledges of fine white granite, either seen 
through the transparent waters or lining the shore like massive masonry. "Uni- 
versal gloom and stillness reign over these lakes and the forests around them." 

Beyond Vanceboro' the train passes through an almost unbroken wilder- 
ness for 55 M., during the last 16 M. following the course of the ilatta- 



ST. JOHN RIVER. Route 8. 39 

■wamkeag River. The station of Mattawamkeag is' at the confluence of 

the Mattawamkeag and Penobscot Rivers ; and the railway from thence 

follows the course of the latter stream, traversing a succession of thinly 

populated lumbering towns. 45 M. below Mattawamkeag, the Penobscot 

is crossed, and the train reaches Oldtown (two inns), a place of about 

4,000 inhabitants, largely engaged in the lumber business. The traveller 

should notice here the immense and costly booms and mills, one of which 

is the largest in the world and has 100 saws at work cutting out planks. 

On an island just above Oldtown is the home of the Tarratine Indians, formerly 
the most powei-ful and warlike of the Northern tribes. They were at lirst well-dis- 
posed towards the colonists, but after a series of wrongs and insults they took up 
arms in 1678, and inflicted such terrible damage on the settlements that Maine be- 
came tributary to them by the Peace of Casco. After destroying the fortress of Pem- 
aquid to avenge an insult to their chief, St. Castin, they remained quiet for many 
years. The treaty of 1720 contains the substance of their present relations with the 
State. The. declension of the tribe was marked for two centuries; but it is now 
slowly increasing. The people own the islands in the Penobscot, and have a reve- 
nue of $ 6 - 7,000 from the State, which the men eke out by working on the lumber- 
rafts, and by hunting and fishing, while the women make baskets and other trifles 
for sale. The island-village isj,vit.hout streets, and consists of many small houses 
built around a Catholic church. There are over 400 persons here, most of whom 
are half-breeds. 

Below Oldtown the river is seen to be filled with booms and rafts of 
timber, and lined with saw-mills. At Orono is the State Agricultural 
College; and soon after passing Veazie the train enters the city of 
Bangor. 

For descriptions of Bangor, the Penobscot River, and the route to Bos- 
ton, see Osgood's New England. 

8. St. Jolin to Fredericton. — The St. John River. 

The steamers David Weston and Star, of the Union Line, leave St. John (Indian- 
town) at 9 A. M. daily. See also Routes 9 and 10. These vessels are comfortably 
fitted up for passengers, in the manner of the smaller boats on the Hudson River. 
Dinner is served on board ; and fredericton is usually reached late in the afternoon. 
On Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday there is a night-beat, leaving St. John at 
5 P. M. ; and returning from Fredericton at 4 p. m., reaching St- John at 11 p. m. 

The scenery of the St. John River is pretty, and has a pleasing pastoral quiet- 
ness. The elements of the landscapes are simple ; the settlements are few and 
small, and at no time will the traveller find his attention violently drawn to any 
passing object. There are beautiful views on the Long Reach, at Belleisle Bay, 
and during the approach to Fredericton, but the prevalent character of the 
scenery is that of quiet and restful rural lands, by which it is pleasant to drift on 
a balmy summer-day. Certain provincial writers have done a mischief to the St. 
John by bestowing upon it too extravagant praise, thereby preparing a disappoint- 
ment for such as believed their report. One calls it " the Rhine of America," and 
another prefers it to the Hud.^on. This is wide exaggeration ; but if the traveller 
would enjoy a tranquillizing and luxurious journey through a pretty farming coun- 
try, abounding in mild diversity of scenery, he should devote a day to this river. 

Distances. — (The steamboat-landings bear the names of their owners, and the 
following itinerary bears reference rather to the villages on the shores than to the 
stopping-places of the boats.) St. John ; Brundage's Point, 10 M. ; Westfield, 17 ; 
Greenwich Hill, 19; Oak Point, 25; Long Reach, 26; Tennant's Cove (Belleisle 
Bay), 29; Wickham, 32; Hampstead, 33; Otnabog, 41; Gagetown, 50; Upper 
Gagetown, 58 ; Maugerville, 72 ; Oromocto, 75 ; Glasier's, 81 ; Fredericton, 86. 

Fares. — St. John to Fredericton, $1. 



40 Routes. KENNEBECASIS BAY. 

This river was called Looshtooh (Long River) by the Etchemin Indians, and ' 
Ouangoudie by the Micmacs. It is supposed to have been visited by De Monts, 
or other explorers at an early day, and in the commission of the year 1598 to the 
Lieut -General of Acadia it is called La Riviere de la Grandf Bale. But no exam- 
ination was made of the upper waters until St. John's Day, 1604, when the French 
fleet under De Monts and Poutrincourt entered the great river. In honor of the 
saint on whose festival the exploration was begun, it was then entitled the St. John. 
After spending several weeks in ascending the stream and its connected waters, the 
discoverers sailed away to the south, bearing a good report of the chief river of 
Acadia. De Monts expected to find by this course a near route to Tadousac, on the 
Saguenay, and therefore sailed up as far as the depth of water would permit. " The 
extent of this river, the fish with which it was filled, the grapes growing on its 
banks, and the beauty of its scenery, were all objects of wonder and admiration." 
At a subsequent day the fierce struggles of the French seigneurs were waged on its 
shores, and the invading fleets of New England furrowed its tranquil waters. 

The St. John is the chief river of the Maritime Provinces, and is over 450 M. 
in length, being navigable for steamers of 1,000 tons for 90 M., for light-draught 
steamers 270 M. (with a break at the Grand Falls), and for canoes for nearly its 
entire extent. It takes its rise in the great Maine forest, near the sources of the 
Penobscot and the Chaudiere ; and from the lake which heads its S. W. Branch 
the Indian voyageurs carry their canoes across the Mejarmette Portage and launch 
them in the Chaudiere, on which they descend to Quebec. Flowing to the N. E. 
for over 150 M. through the Maine forest, it receives the Allagash, St. Francis, and 
other large streams ; and from the mouth of the St. Francis nearly to the Grand 
Falls, a distance of 75 M., it forms the frontier between the United States and 
Canada. It is the chief member in that great system of rivers and lakes which has 
won for New Brunswick the distinction of being " the most finely watered country 
in the world." At Madawaska the course changes from N. E to S. E-, and the 
sparsely settled N. W. counties of the Province are traversed, with large tributaries 
coming in on either side. During the last 50 M. of its course it receives the waters 
of the great basins of the Grand and Washademoak Lakes and the Belleisle and 
Kennebecasis Baj-s, which have a parallel direction to the N. E. , and afibrd good 
facilities for inland navigation. The tributary streams are connected with those of 
the Gulf and of the Bay of Chaleur by short portages (which will be mentioned in 
connection with their points of departure). 

Immediately after leaving the dock at St. John a fine retrospect is 
given of the dark chasm below, over which is the light and graceful 
suspension-bridge. Running up by Point Pleasant, the boat ascends a 
narrow gorge with high and abrupt banks, at whose bases are large 
lumber-mills. On the r. is Boar''s Head, a picturesque rocky promon- 
tory, in whose sides are quarries of limestone; 3-4 M. above Indiantown 
the broad expanse of Grand Bay is entered, and South Bay is seen open 
ing on the 1. rear. 

The Kennebecasis Bay is now seen, opening to the N. E. This noble 
sheet of water is from 1 to 4 M. wide, and is navigable for large vessels 
for over 20 M. It receives the Kennebecasis and Hammond Rivers, and 
contains several islands, the chief of which, Long Island, is 5 M. long, 
and is opposite the village of Rothesay (see page 22). The E. shore is fol- 
lowed for many miles by the track of the Intercolonial Railway. 

The testimony of the rocks causes scientists to believe that the St. John formerly 
emptied by two mouths, — through the Kennebecasis and the Marsh Yalley, and 
through South Bay into Manawagonish Bay, — and that the breaking down of the 
present channel through the lofty hills W. of St. John is an event quite recent in 
geological history. The Indians still preserve a tradition that this barrier of hills 
■was once unbroken and served to divert^he stream. 



LONG REACH.. Route 8. 41 

On tiie banks of the placid Kennebecasis the ancient Micmac legends locate the 
home of the Great Beaver, " feared by beasts and men," whom Glooscap finally 
conquered and put to death. In this vicinity dwelt the two Great Brothers, Gloos- 
cap and Malsunsis, of unknown origin and invincible power. Glooscap knew that 
his brother was vulnerable only by the touch of a fern-root ; and he had told Mal- 
sunsis (falsely) that the stroke of an owl's feather would kill him. It came to pass 
that Malsunsis deternuned to kill his brother (whether tempted thus by Mik-o, the 
Squirrel, or by Quah-beet-e-sis, the son of the Great Beaver, or by his own evil am- 
bition) ; wherefore with his arrow he shot Koo-koo-skoos, the Owl, and with one of 
his feathers struck the sleeping Glooscap. Then he awoke, and reproached Malsun- 
sis, but afterwards told him ttiat a blow from the root of a pine would kill him. 
Then the traitorous man led his brother on a hunting excursion far into the forest, 
and while he slept he smote him with a pine-root. But the cautious Glooscap arose 
unharmed, and drove Malsunsis forth into the forest ; then sat down by the brook- 
side and said to himself, " Naught but a flowering rush can kill me." Musquash,, 
the Beaver, hidden among the sedge, heard these words and reported them to Mal- 
sunsis, who promised to do unto him even as he should ask. Therefore did Mus- 
quash say, " Give unto me wings like a pigeon." But the warrior answered, " Get 
thee hence, thou with a tail like a file ; what need hast thou of pigeon-s wings ? " 
and went on his way. Then the Beaver was angry, and went forth unto the camp 
of Glooscap, -to whom he told what he had done. And by reason of these tidings, 
Glooscap arose and took a root pf fern and sought Malsunsis in the wide and gloomy 
forest ; and when he had found him he smote him so that he fell down dead. " And 
Glooscap sang a song over him and lamented." 

Now, therefore, Glooscap ruled all beasts and men. And there came unto him 
three brothers seeking that he would give them great strength and long life and 
much stature. Then asked he of them whether they wished these things that they 
might benefit and counsel men and be glorious in battle. But they said, " No; we 
seek not the good of men, nor care we for others." Then he offered unto them suc- 
cess in battle, knowledge and skill in diseases, or wisdom and subtlety in counsel. 
But they would not hearken unto him. Therefore did Glooscap wax angry, and 
said: "Go your ways; you shall have strength and stature and length of days." 
And while they were yet in the way, rejoicing, "lo ! their feet became rooted to the 
ground, and their legs stuck together, and their necks shot up, and they were 
turned into three cedar-trees, strong and tall, and enduring beyond the days of men, 
but destitute alike of all glory and of all use." 

Occasional glimpses of the railway are obtained on the 1., and on the r. 
is the large island of Kennebecasis, which is separated from the Kingston 
peninsula by the Milkish Channel. Then the shores of Land's End are 
passed on the r. ; and on the 1. is the estuary of the Nerepis Kiver. At 
this point the low (but rocky and alpine) ridge of the Nerepis Hills crosses 
the river, running N. E. to Bull Moose Hill, near the head of Belleisle 
Bay. 

The steamer now changes her course from N. W. to N. E., and enters the 
Long Eeach, a broad and straight expanse of the river, 16 M. long and 
1-3 M. wide. The shores are high and bold, and the scenery has a lake- 
like character. Beyond the hamlets of Westfield and. Greenwich Hill, on 
the 1, bank, is the rugged and forest-covered ridge known as the DeviVs 
Bach, an off-spur of the minor Alleghany chain over the Nei-epis Valley. 
Abreast of the wooded Foster's Island, on the E. shore, is a small ham- 
let clustered about a tall-spired church. Caton's Island is just above Fos- 
ter's, and in on the W. shore is seen the pretty little village of Oak Point 
(Lacey's inn), with a lighthouse and the spire of the Episcopal church of 
St. Paul. Farther up is the insulated intervale of Grassy Island, famous 



42 Routed. BELLEISLE BAY. 

for its rich hay, which may be seen in autumn stacked all along the shor«.i 
The steamer now passes through the contracted channel off Mistaken 
Point, where the river is nearly closed by two narrow peninsulas which 
project towards each other from the opposite shores. 

Belleisle Bay turns to the N. E. just above Mistaken Point. The estuary is 
nearly hidden by a low island and by a rounded promontory on the r., beyond which 
the bay extends to the N. E. for 12 - 14 M. , with a uniform width of 1 M. It is navi- 
gable for the largest vessels, and is bordered by wooded hills. On the S. shore near 
the mouth is Kingston Creek, which leads S. in about 5 M. to Kingston (two 
inns), a sequestered village of 200 inhabitants, romantically situated among the hills 
in the centre of the peninsular parish of Kingston. This peninsula preserves an 
almost uniform width of 5-6 M. for 30 M. , between the Kennebecasis Bay and river 
on the S. E. and the Long Reach and Belleisle Bay on the N. W. The scenery, 
though never on a grand scale, is pleasant and bold, and has many fine water views. 
A few miles E. of Kingston is the remarkable lakelet called the Pickivaakef-t , occu- 
pying an extinct crater and surrounded by volcanic rocks. This district was origi- 
nally settled by American Loyalists, and for many years Kingston was the capital of 
Kings County. The village is most easily reached "from Rothesay (see page 22). 

TennanVs Cove is a small Baptist village at the N. of the entrance to the bay ; 
whence a road leads in 5 M. to the hamlet of Belleisle Bay on the N. shore (nearly 
opposite Long Point village) ; from which the bay road runs in 3-4 M. to the larger 
Baptist settlement at Spragg's Point, whence much cord-wood is sent to St. John. 
4 M. beyond is Sjiringfield (small inn), the largest of the Belleisle villages, situated 
near the head of the bay, and 7 M. from Norton, on the Intercolonial Railway 
(Route 16). 

At the head of the Long Eeach a granite ridge turns the river to the N. 
and N. W. and narrows it for several miles. 4-5 M. above Belleisle Bay 
Spoon Island is passed, above which, on the r. bank, is the shipbuilding 
hamlet of Wichliam. A short distance beyond, on the W. bank, is Hamp- 
stead, with several mills and a granite-quarry. The shores of the river 
now become more low and level, and the fertile meadows of Long Island 
are coasted for nearly 5 M. This pretty island is dotted with elm-trees, 
and contains two large ponds. On the mainland (W. shore), near its head, 
is the hamlet of Otnabog, at the mouth of a river which empties into a lake 
3 M. long and 1-2 M. wide, connected with the St. John by a narrow 
passage. The boat next passes the Lower Musquash Island, containing a 
large pond, and hiding the outlet of the WashademoaJc Lake (see Route 9). 

" This part of the Province, including the lands around the Grand Lake and along 
the Washademoak, must become a very populous and rich country. A great propor- 
tion of the land is intervale or alluvial, and coal is found in great plentj^ near the 

Grand Lake No part of America can exhibit greater beauty or more luxuriant 

fertility than the lands on each side, and the islands that we pass in this distance." 
(McGregor's British America.) 

After passing the Upper Musquash Island, the steamboat rounds in at 
Gagetown (2 inns), a village of 300 inhabitants, prettily situated on the W. 
bank of the river. It is the shire-town of Queen's County, and is the shipping- 
point for a broad tract of farming-country. After leaving this point, the 
steamer passes between Grimross Neck (1.) and the level shores of Cam- 
bridge (r.), and runs by the mouth of the Jemseg River. 

About the year 1640 the French seigneur erected at the mouth of the Jemseg a 
fort, on whose ramparts were 12 iron guns and 6 " murtherers." It was provide^ 



M AUGER VILLE. Route 8. 43 

with a court of guard, stone barracks and magazines, a garden, and a chapel " 6 paces 
square, with a bell weighing 18 pounds." In 1654 it was captured by an expedition 
sent out by Oliver Cromwell ; but was yielded up by Sir Thomas Temple to the 
Seigneur de Soulanges et Marsou in 1670. In 1674 it was taken and plundered by 
" a Flemish corsair." The Seigniory of Jemseg was granted by the French Crown to 
the ancient Breton family of Damour des Chaffour. In 1686 it was occuiJed by the 
seignorial family, and in 1698 there were 50 persons settled here under its auspices. 
In 1739 the lordship of this district was held by the Marquis de Vaudx-euil, who liad 
116 colonists in the domain of Jemseg. In 1692 it was made the capital of Acadia, 
under the command of M. de Villebon ; and after the removal of the seat of govern- 
ment to Fort Nashwaak (Fredericton), the Jemseg fort suffered the vicissitudes of 
British attack, and was finally abandoned. About the year 1776, 600 Indian warriors 
gathered here, designing to devastate the St. John valley, but were deterred by the 
resolute front made by the colonists from the Oromocto fort, and were finally ap- 
peased and quieted by large presents. 

The Jemseg River is the outlet of Grand Lake (see Route 10). Beyond 

this point the steamer runs N. W. by Grimross Island, and soon passes the 

hamlets of Canning (r.) and Upper Gagetown (1.). Above Mauger's Island 

is seen the tall spire of Burton church, and the boat calls at Sheffield, the 

seat of the Sheffield Academy. 

" The whole river-front of the parishes of Maugerville, Sheffield, and "Water- 
borough, an extent of nearly 30 M., is a remarkably fine alluvial soil, exactly re- 
sembling that of Battersea fields and the Twickenham meadows, stretching from the 
river generally about 2 M. This tract of intervale, including the three noble islands 
opposite, is deservedly called the Garden of New Brunswick, and it is by far the 
most considerable tract of alluvial soil, formed by fresh water, in the Province." 

Above Sheffield the steamer passes Middle Island, which is 3 M. long, 
and produces much hay, and calls at Maugerville, a quiet lowland village 
of 300 inhabitants. On the opposite shore is Oromocto (two inns), the 
capital of Sunbury County, a village of 400 inhabitants, engaged in ship- 
building. It is at the mouth of the Oromocto River, which is navigable 
for 22 M. 

The settlement of Maugerville was the first which was formed by the English on 
the St. John River. ItVas established in 1763 by families from Massachusetts and 
Connecticut, and had over lOO families in 1775. In May, 1776, the inhabitants of 
Sunbury County assembled at Maugerville, and resolved that the colonial policy of 
the British Parliament was wrong, that the United Provinces were justified in re- 
sisting it, that the county should be attached to Massachusetts, and that men and 
money should be raised for the American service : saying also, " we are Ready with 
our Lives and fortunes to Share with them the Event of the present Struggle for 
Liberty, however God in his Providence may order it." These resolutions were 
signed by all but 12 of the people ; and Massachusetts soon sent them a quantity of 
ammunition. At a later day Col. Eddy, with a detachm.ent of Mass. troops, ascended 
the St. John River to Maugerville, where he met with a warm welcome and was 
joined by nearly 50 men. 

Oromocto was in early days a favorite resort of the Indians, one of whose grea.t 
cemeteries has recently been found here. When the hostile tribes concentrati-d on 
the Jemseg during the Revolutionary "War, and were preparing to devastate the 
river-towns, the colonists erected a large fortification near the mouth of the Oromocto, 
and took refuge there. They made such a bold front that the Indians retired and 
disbanded, after having reconnoitred the works. 

" The rich meadows are decorated with stately elms and forest trees, or sheltered 
by low coppices of cranberry, alder, and other native bushes. Through the numer- 
ous openings in the shrubbery, the visitor, in traversing the river, sees the white 
fronts of the cottages, and other buildings ; and, from the constant change of posi- 
tion, in sailing, an almost endless variety of scenery is presented to the traveller's 
eye. During the summer season the surface of the water affords an interesting 



44 Routes. FREDERICTOIT. 

spectacle. Vast rafts of timber and logs are slowly moved downwards by the cur- 
rent. On them is sometimes seen the shanty of the lumberman, with his family, a 
cow, and occasionally a haystack, all destined for the city below. Numerous canoes 
and boats are in motion, while the paddles of the steamboat break the polished sur- 
ftice of the stream and send it rippling to the shore. In the midst of this landscape 
stands Fredericton, situated on an obtuse level point formed by the bending of the 
river, and in the midst of natural and cultivated scenery." (Gesner.) 

Fredericton. 

Hotels. Barker House, Queen St. , $ 2 a day ; Queen's Hotel, Queen St., $ 2 a day. 

Stages leave tri- weekly for Woodstock (62 M. ; fare, $ 2.50) ; and tri- weekly for 
Boiestowa and the Miramichi (105 M. ; fare, $6). 

Kail ways. The European & North American (branch line) to St. John, in 
about 64 M. ; fare, S2. The New Brunswick Railway from Gibson (across the river) 
to Woodstock, Aroostook, and Edmundston, 176 M. Fare to Woodstock, $ 1.75 
(page 50). 

Steamboats. Daily to St. John, stopping at the river-ports. Fare, % 1.50. 
In the summer there are occasional night-boats, leaving Fredericton at 4 p. M. 
When the river has enough water, steamboats sometimes run from Fredericton, 
65 - 70 M. N. W. to Woodstock and Grand Falls. Ferry-steamers cross to St. Mary's 
at frequent intervals. 

Fredericton, the capital of the Province of New Brunsw^ick, is a small 
city pleasantly situated on a level plain near the St. John River. In 1882 
it had 6,006 inhabitants, with five newspapers and a bank. It is prob- 
ably the quietest place, of its size, north of the Potomac River. The 
streets are broad and airy, intersecting each other at right angles, and are 
lined with fine old shade trees. The city has few manufacturing interests, 
but serves as a shipping-point and depot of supplies for the young settle- 
ments to the N. and W. Its chief reason for being is the presence of the 
offices of the Provincial Government, for which it was founded. 

Queen St. is the chief thoroughfare of the city, and runs nearly parallel 
with the river. At its W. end is the Government House, a plain and spa- 
cious stone building situated in a pleasant park, and used for the official 
residence of the Lieutenant-Governor of New Brunsvvick. Nearly in the 
middle of the city, and between Queen St. and the river, are the Military 
Grounds and Parade-ground, with the large barracks (accommodating 
1,000 men), which were formerly the headquarters of the British army in 
this Province. Near the E. end of Queen St. is the Parliament Building, 
a handsome modern freestone structure, from whose top a fine view is 
obtained. It contains the spacious halls of the Lower House, Legislative 
Council, and Supreme Court (with its law library). The Legislative 
Library-, in a fire-proof building adjacent, contains 15,000 volumes, includ- 
ing Louis Philippe's copy of Audubon's '' Birds " (open during session, 
and on Wednesday afternoons). The chief wealth of Fredericton is em- 
ployed in lumbering, and there are great booms above and below the city, 
with an important British and West-Indian trade. 

* Christ Church Cathedral is a short distance beyond the Parliament 
Building, and is embowered in a grove of fine old trees near the river 
(corner of Church and Queen Sts.). It is under the direct care of the 
Anglican Bishop of Fredericton, and its style of construction is modelled 



FREDERICTON. - Route 8. 45 

after that of Christ Church Cathedral at Montreal. The beauty of the 
English Gothic architecture, as here wrought out in fine gray stone, is 
heightened by the picturesque effect of the surrounding trees. A stone 
spire, 178 ft. high, rises from the junction of the nave and transepts. The 
interior is beautiful, though small, and the chancel is adorned with a 
superb window of Newcastle stained-glass, presented by the Episcopal 
Church in the United States, it represents, in the centre, Christ cruci- 
fied, with SS. John, James, and Peter on the 1., and SS. Thomas, Philip, 
and Andrew on the r. In the cathedral tower is a chime of 8 bells, each 
of which bears the inscription : 

" Ave Pater, Rex, Creator, Ave Simplex, Ave Trine, 

Ave Fill, Lux, Salvator, Ave Regnaus in Sublime, 

Ave Spiritus Consolator, Ave Resonet sine line, 
Ave Beata Unitas. Ave Sancta Trinitas." 

St. Ann's is a pretty Episcopal Church, at the W. end; and in 1883 the 
Baptists and Presbyterians erected fine stone churches. Between Queen 
St. and the river are the substantial City Hall and Post-Ofiice, and the 
well-equipped Normal School, where the teachers of the Province are 
trained. 

The University of New Brunswick is a substantial freestone building, 170 
f£. long and 60 ft. wide, occupying a fine position on the hills which sweep 
around the city on the S. It was established by roj'al charter in 1828, 
while Sir Howard Douglas ruled the Province; and was for many years a 
source of great strife between the Episcopalians and the other sects, the 
latter making objection to the absorption by the Anglicans of an institu- 
tion which had been paid for by the whole people. It is fairly endowed 
by the Province, and does an important work in carrying on the higher 
education of the country, despite the competition of denominational col- 
leges. The view from the University is thus described by Prof. Johnston : 

" From the high ground above Fredericton I again felt how very delightful it is to 
feast the eyes, weary of stony barrens and perpetual pines, upon the beautiful river 
St John Calm, broad, clear, just visibly flowing on ; full to its banks, and re- 
flecting from its surface the graceful American elms which at intervals fringe its 
shores, it has all the beauty of a long lake without its lifelessness. But its acces- 
sories are as yet chiefly those of nature, — wooded ranges of hills varied in outline, 
now retiring from and now approaching the water's edge, with an occasional clear- 
ing, and a rare white-washed house, with its still more rarely visible inhabitants, 

and stray cattle In some respects this view of the St. John recalled to my 

mind some of the points on the Russian river (Neva) : though among European 
scenery, in its broad waters and forests of pines, it most resembled the tamer por- 
tions of the sea-arms and fiords of Sweden and Norway." 

St. Mary''s and NashwaaJcsis are opposite Fredericton, on the 1. bank of 
the St. John, and are reached bj^ a steam-ferry. Here is the terminus of 
the New Brunswick Railway (to Woodstock) ; and here also are the great 
lumber-mills of Mr. Gibson, with the stately church and comfortable 
homes which he has erected for his workmen. Nearly opposite the city 
is seen the mouth of the Nashwaak River, whose valley was settled by 
disbanded soldiers of the old Black Watch (42d Highlanders). 



46 Routes. FREDERICTON. 

In the year 1690 the French government sent out the Chevalier de Yillebon as 
Governor of Acadia. When he arrived at Port Royal (Annapolis), his capital, he 
found that Sir WilUam Phipps's New-England fleet had recently captured and de- 
stroyed its fortifications, so he ascended the St. John River and soon fixed his capi- 
tal at Nashwaak, where he remained for several years, organizing Indian forays on 
tte settlements of Maine. 

In October, 1696, an Anglo-American army ascended the St. John in the ships 
Arundel, Province, and others, and laid siege to Fort Nashwaak. The Chevalier de 
Viilebon drew up his garrison, and addressed them with enthusiasm, and the de- 
tachments were put in charge of the Sieurs de la Cote, Tibierge, and Clignancourt. 
The British royal standard was displayed over the besiegers' works, and for three 
days a heavy fire of artillery and musketry was kept up. The precision of the fire 
from La Cote's battery dismounted the hostile guns, and after seeing the Sieur de 
Falaise reinforce the fort from Quebec, the British gave up the siege and retreated 
down the river. 

The village of St. Anne was erected here, under the protection of Fort Nashwaak. 
Its site had been visited by De Monts in 1604, during his exploration of the river. 
In 1757 (and later) the place was crowded with Acadian refugees fleeing from the 
stern visitations of angry New England on the Minas and Port Royal districts. In 
1784 came the exiled Am.erican Loyalists, who drove away the Acadians into the 
■wilderness of Madawaska, and settled along these shores. During the following 
year Gov. Guy Carleton established the capital of the Province here, in view of the 
central location and pleasant natural features of the place. Since the formation of 
the Canadian Dominion, and the consequent withdrawal of the British garrison, 
Fredericton has become dormant. 

7 M. above Fredericton is Auhpaqiie, the favorite home-district of the ancient 
Indians of the river. The name signifies " a beautiful expanse of the river caused 
by numerous islands." On the island of Sandous were the fortifications and quar- 
ters of the American forces in 1777, when the St. John River was held by the expe- 
dition of Col. Allan. They reached Aukpaque on the 5th of June, and saluted the 
new American flag with salvos of artillery, while the resident Indians, under Am- 
brose St. Aubin, their " august and noble chief," welcomed them and their cause. 
They patrolled the river with guard-boats, aided the patriot residents on the banks, 
and watched the mouth of St. John harbor. After the camp on Aukpaque had 
been established about a month it was broken up by a British naval force from 
below, and Col. Allan led away about 500 people, patriot Provincials, Indians, and 
their families. This great exodus is one of the most romantic and yet least known 
incidents of the American borders. It was conducted by canoes up the St. John to 
the ancient French trading-post called Fort Meductic, whence they carried their 
boats, families, and household goods across a long portage ; then they ascended the 
rapid Eel River to its reservoir-lake, from whose head another portage of 4 M. led 
them to North Pond. The long procession of exiles next defiled into the Grand 
Lake, and encamped for several days at its outlet, after which they descended the 
Chiputneticook Lake and the St. Croix River, passed into tlie Lower Schoodic Lake, 
and thence carried their families and goods to the head-waters of the Machias River. 
Floating down that stream, they reached Machias i in time to aid in beating off the 
British squadron from that town. 



From Fredericton to the Miramichi. Through the Forest. 

The Royal Mail-stage leaves on Monday, Wednesday, and Friday, at 
a very early hour, and the passenger gets breakfast at Eastman's, and 
sleeps at Frazer's. The trip requires 2 days, and costs $6 (exclusive of 
hotels), and the distance from Fredericton to Newcastle is 105 M. By far 
the greater part of the route leads through an unbroken forest, and the 
road leaves much to be desired. After crossing the ferry at Fredericton 

1 Machias is said to be derived from the French word Mages (meaning the Magi), and it 
is held that it was discovered by the ancient^French explorers on the Festival of the Magi. 



WASHADEMOAK LAKE. Routed. 47 

the route lies due N. and is as straight as an arrow for 9 M., when it reaches 
Nashwaak Village (small inn); thence it follows the Nashwaak River for 
5 M., to thd' hamlet of Nashwaak^ above which it enters a wild country 
about the head-waters of the river. To the W. are the immense domains 
of the New Brunswick Land Company, on which a few struggling settle- 
ments are located. In the earlier days there was a much-travelled route 
between the St. John valley' and the Miramichi waters, by way of the 
Nashwaak River, from whose upper waters a portage was made to the 
adjacent streams of the Miramichi (see " Vacation Tourists," for 1862-3, 
pp. 464-474). At about 40 M. from Fredericton the stage reaches Boies- 
toivn (small inn), a lumbei'ing-village of 250 inhabitants, on the S. W. 
Miramichi River. This place was founded in 1822, by Thomas Boies and 
120 Americans, but has become decadent since the partial exhaustion of 
the forests. The road now follows the course of the S. W. Miramichi, 
passing the hamlets of Ludlow, 52 M. from Fredericton ; Doaktown, 55 
M.; Blissfield, 62; Dunpliy, 73; Blackville, 79; Indiantown (Renous River), 
87;Dei-by, 96; and Newcastle, 105 (see Route 15). 

9. Washademoak Lake. 

Steam Tioats occasionally run from St. John to this point, a distance of 60 M. A 
regular line formerly plied on this route, but it was given up, some years since. 

The steamboat ascends the St. John River (see page 89) to the upper 
end of Long Island, where it turns to the N. E, in a narrow passage be- 
tween the Lower Musquash Island and the shores of Wickham. On either 
side are wide rich intervales, over which the spring inundations spread 
fertilizing soil; and the otherwise monotonous landscape is enlivened by 
clusters of elms and maples. After following this passage for 1^ M., the 
steamer enters the Washademoak Lake, at this point nearly 2 M. wide. 
The Washademoak is not properly a lake, but is the broadening of the 
river of the same name, which maintains a width of from ^ M. to 2 M. 
from Cole's Island to its mouth, a distance of 25 - 30 M. It is deep and 
still, and has but little current. In the spring-time and autumn rafts de- 
scend the lake from the upper rivers and from the head-waters of the 
Cocagne, and pass down to St. John, The scenery is rather tame, being 
that of alluvia] lowlands, diversified only by scattered trees. There are- 
10 small hamlets on the shores, with from 150 to 250 inhabitants each, 
most of them being on the E. shore. The people are engaged in farming 
and in freighting cord-wood to St. John. About 6 M. above McDonald's 
Point, Lewis Cove opens to the S. E., running down for about 3 M. into the 
parish of Wickham ; and 4-5 M. farther on are the Narrows, where the 
Jake is nearly cut in two by a bold bluff projecting from the E. shore. 
CoWs Island has about 200 inhabitants, and a small hotel. It is 20 M. 



48 RmdelO. GKAND LAKE. 

from Apohaqui, on the Intercolonial Eailway. Roads run across the p^ 

ninsula on the N. W. to Grand Lake in 5 -7 M. It is 38 M, from Cole's 
Island to Petitcodiac, on the Intercolonial Eailway, by way of Brookvale, 
The Forks, and New Canaan. The Washademoak region has no attrac- 
tions for the summer tourist. 

10. Grand Lake. 

The river-steamer Fawn leaves St. John (Indian town) on Wednesday and Satur- 
day at 8 A.M., for Grand Lake and the Salmon River. The distance is 85 M. ; the 
fare is $ 1.50. She leaves Salmon River on Monday and Thursday mornings ; and 
touches at Gagetown in ascending and descending. 

Grand Lake is 30 M. long and from 3 to 9 M. wide. It has a tide of 6 
inches, caused by the backwater of the St. John River, thrown up by the 
high tides of the Bay of Fundy. The shores are low and uninteresting, 
and are broken by several deep coves and estuaries. There are numerous 
hamlets on each side, but they are all small and have an air of poverty. 
It is reasonably hoped, however, that these broad alluvial plains will be- 
come, in a few decades, the home of a large and prosperous population. 

The lands in this vicinity were granted at an early date to the Sieur de Freneuse, 
a young Parisian, the son of that Sieur de Clignancourt who was so active in settling 
the St. John valley and in defending it against the New-Englanders. On Charle- 
voix's map (dated 1744) Grand Lake is called Lac Freneuse, and a village of the same 
name is indicated as being a few miles to the N. These shores were a favorite camp- 
ing-ground of the ancient Milicete Indians, whose descendants occasionally visit 
Grand Lake in pursuit of muskrats. The lumber business, always baneful to the 
agricultural interests of a new country, has slackened on account of the exhaustion 
of the forests on the Salmnn River ; and it is now thought that a farming population 
will erelong occupy the Grand Lake country. 

The steamer ascends the St. John River (see page 39) as far as Gage- 
town, where it makes a brief stop (other landings on the lower river are 
sometimes visited). She then crosses to the mouth of the Jemseg (see 
page 43), where the Jemseg River is entered, and is followed through its 
narrow, tortuous, and picturesque course of 4 M. This is the most inter- 
esting part of the journey. When nearly through the passage the boat 
stops before the compact hamlet of Jemseg, occupying the slope of a hill 
on the r. On entering the lake, a broad expanse of still water is seen in 
front, with low and level shores denuded of trees. On the 1. is Scotch- 
town (150 inhabitants), near which is a channel cut through the alluvium, 
leading (in 2 M.) to Maquapit Lake, which is 5 M. long and 2-3 M. wide. 
This channel is called the Thoroughfare ; is passable by large boats; and 
leads through groves of elm, birch, and maple trees. 1 M. from the W. 
end of Maquapit Lake is French Lake, accessible by another " Thorough- 
fare," and 3-4 M. long, nearly divided by a long, low point. This lake is 
5 - 6 M. from Sheffield, on the St. John River, 

The channel is marked out by poles rising from the flats on either side. 
(The course of the steamer is liable to variation, and is here described as 
followed by the Editor.) Robinson's Point is first visited, with its white 



GEAND LAKE. Route 11. 49 

lighthouse rising from the E. shore ; and the steamer passes around into 
White's Cove, where there is a farming settlement of 200 inhabitants. 
Thence the lake is crossed to the N. to Keyhole, a curious little harbor 
near the villages of Maquapit and Douglas Harbor. After visiting Mill 
Cove and Wiggin's Cove, on the E. shore, and Young's Cove (2 inns), the 
boat rounds Cumberland Point and ascends the deep Cumberland Bay, at 
whose head is a populous farming settlement. On the way out of the bay 
Cox's Point is visited, and then the narrowing waters at the head of the 
lake are entered. At Neiccastle and other points in this vicinitj'-, attempts 
have been made at coal-mining. The coal district about the head of Grand 
Lake covers an area of 40 square miles, and the coal is said to be of good 
quality and in thick seams. But little has yet been done in the way of 
mining, owing to the difficulty of transporting the coal to market. 

Soon after passing Newcastle Creek the steamer ascends the N. E. arm, 
rounds a long, low point, and enters the Salmon River. This stream is 
ascended for several miles, through the depressing influences of ruined 
forests not yet replaced by farms. Beyond Ironbound Cove and the Coal 
Mines, the boat ties up for the night at a backwoods settlement, where the 
traveller must go ashore and sleep in a room reserved for wayfarers in an 
adjacent cottage. 

Brigg''s Corner is at the head of naTigation, and a road runs thence N. E. across 
the wilderness to Richibucto, in 50-60 M. It is stated by good authority that the 
fishing in the Salmon River has been ruined by the lumber-mills ; but that very 
good sport may be found on the Lake Stream, 15-20 M. beyond Brigg's Corner. 
Visitors to this district must be provided with full camp-equipage. A road also 
leads N. W. from Brigg's Corner (diverging from the Richibucto road at Gaspereau) 
to Blissville, on the S. W. Miramichi, in about 40 M. 

11. Fredericton to Woodstock. 

By the New Brunswick Bailway, which is now completed to Edmundston. 
The company hopes that the line will be carried through to Riviere du Loup, on 
the St. Lawrence, at no distant date. 

Stations. — Gibson ; St Mary's, 1 M.; Douglas, 3; Springhill, 5|; Rockland, 
10; Keswick, 12; Cardigan, 16^; Lawrence, I7i ; Zealand, 20; Stoneridge, 22i ; 
Burnside, 25 ; Upper Keswick, 28i ; Burt Lake, 32 ; Haynesville, 36 J ; Millville, 38i ; 
Nackawic,43; Falls Brook, 48; Woodstock Junction, 52; Newburgh, 57; River- 
side, 60 ; Northampton, 61i. Fare from Fredericton to Woodstock, $ 1.75. 

Beyond Woodstock Junction the New Brunswick Railway runs N. to Hartland 
(61 M. from Fredericton) and to Florenceville (71 M.), and thence to Tobique and 
the upper St. John valley. 

The traveller crosses the St. John River by the steam ferry-boat (5 c.), 
from Fredericton to Gibson ; and the terminal station of the railway is 
near the ferry-landing. As the train moves out, pleasant views are afforded 
3 D 



50 Route 11. FREDERICTON TO WOODSTOCK. 

of the prosperous and happy settlements which have been founded here, by- 
Mr. Gibson, the lumber-merchant. Glimpses of Fredericton are obtained 
on the 1., and beyond St. Mary's the Nashwaaksis River is crossed. Then 
follows a succession of beautiful views (to the 1.) over the wide and placid 
St. John, dotted with numerous large and level islands, upon Avhich are 
clusters of graceful trees. On the farther shore is seen the village of 
Springliill (see page 51) ; and the broad expanse of Sugar Island crosses 
the river a little way above. At about 10 M. from Fredericton the line 
changes its course from W. to N. W., and leaves the St. John valley, 
ascending the valley of the Keswick, — a district which is beginning to 
show the rewards of the arduous labors of its .early pioneers. The Keswick 
Valley was settled in 1783, by the disbanded American-loyalist corps of New 
York and the Royal Guides, and their descendants are now attacking the 
remoter back-country. The Keswick flows through a pleasant region, and 
has bold features, the chief of which is the escarped wall of sandstone on 
the 1. bank, reaching for 8-10 M. from its mouth. From Cardigan station 
a road leads into the old Welsh settlement of Cardigan. 

The line next passes several stations on the ol8 domain of the New Brunswick 
Land Company, an association -which was incorporated by royal charter before 1840, 
and purchased from the Crown 550,000 acres in York County. They established 
their carital and chief agency at the village of Stanley, opened roads through the 
forest, settled a large com} any of peo];le from the Isle of Skyeupon their lands, and 
expended ^500,000 in vain attempts to colonize this district. 

The country now traversed by tlie line seems desolate and unpromising, 
and but few signs of civilization are visible. This forest-land is left be- 
hind, and the open valley of the St. John is approached, beyond New~ 
burgJi. For the last few miles of the journey beautiful views are given 
from the high grades of the line, including the river and its intervales and 
surrounding hills. The St. John River is crossed by a long wooden rail- 
way bridge. 

Woodstock {American ffouse, comfortable), the capital of Carleton 
County, is situated at the confluence of the St. John and Meduxnekeag 
Rivers, in the centre of a thriving agricultural district. The population is 
over 2,000, and the town is favorably situated on a high bluff over the St. 
John River. The Episcopal Church of St. Luke and the Catholic Church 
of St. Gertrude are on Main St., where are also the chief buildings of the 
town. The academy called Woodstock College is located here. The 
country in this vicinity is very attractive in summer, and is possessed of a 
rich rural beauty which is uncommon in these Provinces. The soil is a 
calcareous loam, producing more fruit and cereal grains than any other 
part of New Brunswick. The bold bluff's over the St. John are generally well- 
wooded, and the intervales bear much hay and grain. There are large saw- 
mills at the mouth of the Meduxnekeag, where the timber which is cut on 
its upper waters, in Maine, is made into lumber. 12 M. from Woodstock 



WOODSTOCK. Route 12. 51 

is the American village of HouUon, the capital of Aroostook County, Maine; 
and the citizens of the two towns are in such close social relations that 
Woodstock bears great resemblance to a Yankee town, both in its archi- 
tecture and its society. 

" Of the quality of the Woodstock iron it is impossible to speak too highly, espe- 
cially for making steel, and it is eagerly sought by the armor-plate manufacturers in 
England. On six different, trials, plates of Woodstock iron were only slightly in- 
dented by an Armstrong shot, which shattered to pieces scrap-iron plates of the best 
quality and of similar thickness. When cast it has a fine silver-gray color, is singu- 
larly close-grained, and rings like steel on being struck. A cubic inch of Wood- 
stock iron weighs 22 per cent more than the like quantity of Swedish, Russian, or 
East Indian iron." (Hon. Arthur Gordon.) The mines are some distance from 
the village, and are being worked efficiently, their products being much used for the 
British iron-clad frigates. 

The N. B. & C. Railway runs S. from Woodstock to St. Stephen and St. Andrews 
(see page 3S) ; fare, $ 2.90. The N. B. Railway goes S. E. to Fredericton ; fare, 
$ 1.75. Steamers run to Fredericton and to Grand Falls, when the river is high 
enough. Trains run N. to Grand Falls, and W. to Houlton. 

12. Fredericton to Wcodstsck, by the St. John River. 

During the spring and autumn, when there is enough water in the river, this 
route is served by steamboats. At other times the journey may be made by the 
mail-stage. The distance is 62 M. ; the fare is $2.50. The stage is uncovered, and 
hence is undesirable as a means of conveyance except in pleasant weather. Most 
travellers will prefer to pass between Fredericton and Woodstock by the new rail- 
way (see Route 11). The stage passes up the S. and W. side of the river. The en- 
suing itinerary speaks of the river-villages in their order of location, without refer- 
ence to the stations of the stages and steamboats. 

Distances. — Fredericton to Springhill, 5 M. ; Lower French Village, 9; Bris- 
tol (Kingsclear), 16 ; Lower Prince William, 21 ; Prince William, 25 ; Dumfries, 32 ; 
Pokiok Falls, 39 ; Lower Canterbury, 44 ; Canterbury, 51 ; Lower Woodstock ; Wood- 
stock, 52. 

On leaving Fredericton, pleasant prospects of the city and its Nash- 
waak suburbs are afforded, and successions of pretty views are obtained 
over the rich alluvial islands which fill the river for over 7 M., up to the 
mouth of the Keswick River. Springhill (S. shore) is the first village, 
and has about 250 inhabitants, with an Episcopal church and a small inn. 
The prolific intervales of Sugar Island are seen on the r., nearly closing 
the estuary of the Keswick, and the road passes on to the Indian village, 
where reside 25 families of the Milicete tribe. A short distance beyond 
is the Lower French Village (McKinley's inn), inhabited by a farming 
population descen5ed from the old Acadian fugitives. The road and river 
now run to the S. W., through the rural parish of Kingsclear, which was 
settled in 1784 by the 2d Battalion of New Jersey Loyalists. Beyond the 
hamlet of Bristol (Kingsclear) Burgoyne's Ferry is reached, and the scat- 
tered cottages of Lower Queensbury are seen on the N. shore. After 
crossing Long's Creek the road and river turn to the N. W., and soon 
reach the village of Lower Prince William ( Wason's inn). 9 M. S. W. of 
this point is a settlement amid the beautiful scenery of Lake George, 
where an antimony-mine is being Avorked; 3 M. beyond which is Magundy 
(small inn), to the W. of Lake George. 



52 Route 12. FOKT MEDUCTIC. 

The road passes on to Prince William, through a parish which was 
originally settled by the King's American Dragoons, and is now occupied 
by their descendants. On the N. shore are the hilly uplands of the parish 
of Queensbury, which were settled by the disbanded men of the Queen's 
Kangers, after the Revolutionaiy War. Eich intervale islands are seen in 
the river between these parishes. Beyond Dumfries (small hotel) the 
hamlet of Upper Queensbury is seen on the N. shore, and the river sweeps 
around a broad bend at whose head is Pokioh, with large lumber-mills, 
3 M. from Allandale. There is a fine piece of scenery here, where the 
Eiver Pokiok (an Indian word meaning "the Dreadful Place "), the out- 
let of Lake George, enters the St. John. The river first plunges over a 
perpendicular fall of 40 ft. and then enters a fine gorge, 1,200 ft. long, 75 ft. 
deep, and 25 ft. wide, cut through opposing ledges of dark rock. The 
Pokiok bounds down this chasm, from step to step, until it reaches the 
St. John, and aflbi'ds a beautiful sight in time of liigh water, although 
its current is often encumbered with masses of riflf-raflf and rubbish from 
the saw-mills above. The gorge should be inspected from below, although 
it cannot be ascended along the bottom on account of the velocity of the 
contracted stream. About 4 M. from Pokiok (and nearer to Dumfries) is 
the. pretty highland water of Prince William Lake, which is nearly 2 M. 
in diameter. 

Lower Canterbury (inn) is about 5 M. beyond Pokiok, and is near the 
mouth of the Sheogomoc Eiver, flowing out from a lake of the same name. 
At Canterbury (Hoyt's inn) the Eel Eiver is crossed; and about 5 M. be- 
yond, the road passes the site of the old French works of Fort Meductic. 

This fort commanded the portage between the St. John and the route by the upper 
Eel River and the Eel and Korth Lakes to the Chiputneticook Lakes and Pa^sama- 
quoddy Bay. Portions of these portiiges are marked by deep pathways worn in the 
rocks iby the moccasons of many generations of Indian hunters and warriors. By 
this route marched the devastating savage troops of the Chevalier de Tillebon to 
manv a merciless foray on the i^ew England borders. The land in this vicinity, 
and the lordship of the Milicete town at Meductic, were granted in 1684 to the Sieur 
Chgnancourt, the brave Parisian who aided in repelling the troops of Massachusetts 
from the fort on the Jem seg. Here, also, during high water, the Indians were 
obliged to make a portage around the Meductic Eapids, and the command of this 
point was deemed of great importance and value. (See also th& account of Allan's 
retreat, on page 46.) 

Off this point are the Meductic Rapids, where the stetoiboats sometimes 
find it difficult to make headway against the descending waters, accel- 
erated by a slight incline. The road now runs N. through the pleasant 
valley of the St. John, with hill-ranges on either side. Lower Woodstock 
is a prosperous settlement of about 500 inhabitants, and the road soon 
approaches the N. B. Eailway (see page 37), and runs between that line 
and the river. 

" The approach to Woodstock, from the old church upwards, is one of the pleas- 
antest drives in the Province, the road being shaded on either side with fine trees, 
and the comfortable farm-houses and gardens, the scattered clumps of wood, the 



FLORENCEVILLE. Route 13- 53 

windings of the great river, the picturesque knolls, and the gay appearance of the 
pretty straggling little town, all giving an air of a long-settled, peaceful, English- 
looking country." (Gordon.) 

13. Woodstock to Grand Falls and Eiviere du Loup. 

The New-Brunswick Railway runs up the valley, from Woodstock to 
Edmundston, tlirough a rather picturesque and diversified country, with charming 
river-views, and furnishing access to very good fishing-grounds. Along the 16 M., 
where the St. John forms the international boundary, extending from 2,^ M. above 
Grand Falls to Edmundston, the scenery is very pleasing, with bold hiUs enclosing 
lake-like reaches of river, graceful islands, and fair meadows. 

Stations. — Woodstock to Upper Woodstock, 2 M. ; Newburgh Junction, 6 ; 
Hartland, 13; Peel, 17; Florenceville, 23 ; Kent, 26; Bath, 29; Muniac,41; Perth, 
49; Andover (Tobique), 51; Aroostook, 55 (branch hence to Fort Fairfield, 7 M. ; 
E.Lyndon, 14; Caribou, 19; Presque Isle, 34); Grand Falls, 73; St. Leonard's, 
87 ; Green River, 104 ; St. Basil, 107 ; Edmundston, 113. 

It is 80 M. by stage from Edmundston to lUviere du Loup, on the St. Law- 
rence (Sp). 

The road from Woodstock to Florenceville is pleasant and in an attrac- 
tive country. "It is rich, English, and pretty. When I say English, 
I ought, perhaps, rather £o say Scotch, for the general features are those 
of the lowland parts of -Perthshire, though the luxuriant vegetation — 
tall croi^s of maize, ripening fields of golden wheat, and fine well-grown 
hard-wood — speaks of a more southern latitude. Single trees and clumps 
are here left about the fields and on the hillsides, under the shade of 
which well-looking cattle may be seen resting, whilst on the other hand are 
pretty views of river and distance, visible under fine willows, or through 
birches that carried me back to Deeside." (Hon. Arthur Gordo jST.) 

The train runs out E. from Woodstock across the St. John valley to 
Newburgh (or Woodstock) Junction, where it turns N". on the main line, 
and runs rapidly through the forest, emerging upon the meadows of the St. 
John, which are followed for a hundred miles. Victoria and Middle 
Simonds (Mills's Hotel) are quiet hamlets on the river, centres of agricul- 
tural districts of 5-800 inhabitants each. Florenceville (large hotel) is a 
pretty village, "perched, like an Italian town, on the very top of -a high 
bluff far over the river." The district between Woodstock and Wicklow 
was settled after the American Revolution by the disbanded soldiers of the 
West India Rangers and the New Brunswick Fencibles. 

" Between Florenceville and Tobique the road becomes even prettier, 
winding along the bank of the St. John, or through woody glens that 
combine to my eye Somersetshire, Perthshire, and the green wooded part 
of southwestern Germany." There are five distinct terraces along the 
valley, showing the geological changes in the level of the river. 5 M. S. 
W. of the river is Mars Hill, a steep mountain about 1,200 ft. high, which 
overlooks a vast expanse of forest. This was one of the chief points of 
controversy during the old border-troubles, and its summit was cleared by 
the Commissioners of 1794. 



54 Route 13. TOBIQUE. 

From Florfenceville the train runs E". 3 M. to Kent, where a road leads 
across in 15 M. to the upper Miramichi waters, whence canoes and fisher- 
men descend the great river, 60 M., to Boiestown (see page 47), through 
rich hill and forest scenery, and with the best of salmon and trout fish- 
ing. (For guides, etc., write to Eichards & Son, Fredericton, N". B.). 

Beyond the long-drawn town of Kent, the train traverses the pleasant 
(but rather lonely) glens of Muniac, celebrated in Indian tradition; and 
reaches the little village of Perth, on the E. shore of the St. John, with 
a hotel and four or five stores, and mills. The frequent views of the bright 
river, on the left, give an appearance of diversity and cheerfulness to the 
landscape. 

ToMf[ue (/. A. Perley^s inn), otherwise known as Andover, is pleasantly 
situated on the W. bank of the St. John, neai-ly opposite the mouth of the 
Tobique River. It has 400 inhabitants and 2 churches, and is the chief 
depot of supplies for the lumbering-camps on the Tobique Eiver. Nearly 
opposite is a large and picturesque Indian village, containing about 150 
persons of the Milicete tribe, and situated on the bluff at the confluence of 
the rivers. They have a valuable reservation here, and the men of the 
tribe engage in lumbering and boating. 

Fort Fairfield (Fort Fairfield House) is 7 M. N. W. of Tobique, and is an 

American border-town, with 900 inhabitants, 5 churches, and several small fac- 
tories. This town was settled by men of New Brunswick in 1816, at which time it 
was supposed to be inside the Pi-ovincial line. A road runs from Fort Fairfield S. W. 
to Presqiie Isle ( Presqve Isle Hotel), a village of about 1 000 inhabitants, with 4 
churches, an academy, several factories, and a newspaper (the " Presque Isle Sun- 
rise "). This town is 42 M. N. of Houlton, on the U. S. military road which runs 
to the Madawaska district, and is one of the centres of the rich farming lands of the 
Aroostook Valley, parts of which are now occupied by Swedish colonists. 

From Tobique to Bathurst. Through the Wilderness. 

Guides and canoes can be obtained at the Indian village near Tobique. Aboofc 
1 M. above Tobique the voyagers ascend through the Narroios, where the rapid cur- 
rent of the Tobique River is confined in a winding canon (1 M. long, 150 ft wide, 
and 50-100 ft. deep) between high limestone cliffs Then the river broadens out 
jnto a pretty lake-Hke reach, with rounded and forest-covered hills on either side. 
The first night-camp is usually made high up on this reach. Two more rapids are 
next passed, and then commences a stretch of clear, deep water 70 M. long. Near 
the foot of the reach is the settlement of Artliurette, with about 400 inhabitants. 
The Red Rapids are 11 M from the mouth of the river, and descend between high 
shores. Occasional beautifully wooded islands are passed in the stream ; and by 
the evening of the second day the voyagers should reach the high red cliffs at the 
mouth of the broad Wapskehegan River. This Indian nam.e signifies " a river with 
a wall at its mouth," and the stream may be ascended for 20 M., through a region 
of limestone hills and alluvial intervales. The Wapskehegan is 81 M. above the 
mouth of the Tobique. 

Infrequent clearings, red cliffs along the shore, and blue hills more remote, en- 
gage the attention as the canoe ascends still farther, passing the hamlet of Foster^s 
Cove on the N. bank, and running along the shores of Diamond and Long Island, 
44 M. up river is the Agulquac River, coming in from the E., and navigable by 
canoes for 25 M. As the intervales beyond this confluence are passed, occasional 
glimpses are gained (on the r.) of the Blue Mts. and other tall ridges. At 80 M. 
from the mouth of the river, the canoe reaches The Forks (4-5 days from Tobique). 



NICTOR LAKE. Route 13. 55 

The Campbell River here comes in from the E. and S. E., from the great Tobique 
Lake and other remote wilderness- waters ; the Momozeket descends from the N., 
and from the N. W. comes the Nietor, or Little Tobique River. It is a good day's 
journey from the Forks to Cedar Brook, on the Nietor; and another day conducts 
to the * Nietor Lake, " possessing more beauty of scenery than any other locality 
I have seen in the Province, except, perhaps, the Bay of Chaleur. Close to its 
southern edge a granite mountain rises to a height of nearly 3,000 ft., clothed with 
wood to its summit, except where it breaks into precipices of dark rock or long gray 
shinglv slopes. Other mountains of less height, but in some cases of more pictur- 
esque forms, are on other sides ; and in the lake itself, in the shadow of the moun- 
tain, is a little rocky islet of most inviting appearance." It takes 2-3 hours to 
ascend the mountam (Bald, or Sagamook), whence " the view is very fine. The lake 
lies right at our feet, — millions of acres of forest are spread out before us like a 
map, sinking and swelling in one dark mantle over hills and valleys, whilst Katah- 
din and Mars Hill in Maine, Tracadiegash in Canada, the Squaw's Cap on the 
Restigouche. and Green Mountain in Victoria, are all distinctly visible. " (Gordon. ) 
From the head of Nietor Lake a portage 3 M. long leads to the Nepisigiiit Lake, 
on whose E. shore is the remarkable peak called Mount Teneriffe. Near the outlet 
is a famous camping-ground, where the fishing is good and in whose vicinity deer 
and ducks are found. It takes about six days to descend the Neplslguit River to 
the Great Falls, the larger part of the way being through forests of fir and between 
distant ranges of bare granite hills. 

The Tobique affords the very best of salmon-fishing, with many trout also. The 
scenery is very interesting, with noble red cliffs, and canons, seething rapids, hill- 
girt lakes, and true forest wildness. The Tobique is the most picturesque stream 
in New Brunswick. 

Grand Falls {Grand-Falls Hotel^ a new summer-resort; American', 
Glasier's), the central point of the upper St. John region, once a British 
garrison, and now capital of Victoria Count}', has latterly become famous 
as a watering-place, the attractions being the noble river and goi'ge and 
hill scenery adjacent, the summer coolness, beautiful drives, fine fishing- 
grounds, etc. The pretty little village, with its three churches, stands ou 
a square peninsular plateau, with the river on three sides, and a dry ravine 
on the fourth. The immensely wide Broadway runs from the railway 
to the bridge. The diverse manners of the French hahitans and Danish 
immigrants are worthy of observation. Partridges and wild ducks abound 
here, in the fall, and furnish good sport ; and the strawberries of July are 
delicious. The Falls are at their best in May, when magnificent convul- 
sions of the flooded river are seen. A month later, the logs come down. 
Besides the view from the bridge, the Falls and the gorge should be seen 
from the old mill above, from the Wells (5 huge eroded pot-holes, with 
grand prospect of the caiion aitd rapids), and from Lover's Leap, over the 
profound Falls-Brook Basin. The scenery is majestic and awe-inspiring. 
There are lovely views from the mountain W. of (and 700 ft. nbove), 
the village, including Blue Bell, Bald Head, and the long lines of the Sal- 
mon-River and Blue Mts. 

The ** Grand Falls are near the village, and form the most imposing 
cataract in the Maritime Provinces. The river expands into a broad basin 
above, affording a landing-place for descending canoes ; then hurries its 
massive current into a narrow rock-bound goi'ge, in which it slants down 
an incline of 6 ft., and then plunges over a precipice of calcareous slate 



56 Route 13. GRAND FALLS. 

68 ft. high. The shape of the fall is singular, since the water leaps' from 
the front and from both sides, with minor and detached cascades over the 
outer ledges. Below the cataract the river whirls and whitens for | M. 
through a rugged gorge 250 ft. wide, whose walls of dark rock are from 
100 to 240 ft. high. " It is a narrow and frightful chasm, lashed by the 
troubled water, and excavated by boiling eddies and. whirlpools always 
in motion ; at last the water plunges in an immense frothy sheet into a 
basin below, where it becomes tranquil, and the stream resumes its origi- 
nal features." Within the gorge the river falls 58 ft. more, and the rug- 
ged shores are strewn with the wrecks of lumber-rafts which have become 
entangled here. The traveller should try to visit the Falls when a raft is 
about passing over. 3-4 M. below the Falls is the dangerous Rapide de 
Femme. Small steamers have been placed on the river above the Falls, 
and have run as far as the mouth of the St. Francis, 65 M. distant. 

It is a tradition of the Micmacs that in a remote age two families of their tribe 
were on the upper St. John hunting, and were surprised by a war-party of the 
strange and dreaded Northern Indians. The latter were descending the river to at- 
tack the lower Micmac villages, and forced the captured women to pilot them down. 
A few miles above the falls thej' asked their unwillicg guides if the stream was all 
smooth below, and on receiving an affirmative answer, lashed the canoes together 
into a raft, and went to sleep, exhausted with their march. When near the Grand 
Falls the women quietly dropped overboard and swam ashore, while the hostile war- 
riors, wrapped in slumber, were swept down into the rapids, only to awaken when 
escape was impossible. Their bodies were stripped by the Micmacs on the river be- 
low, and the brave women were ever afterward Jaeld in high honor by the tribe. 

Crossing the St. John at Grand Falls, the line ascends the E. bank of 
the sti-eam, and soon enters the Acadian-French settlements and farming- 
districts. 8-10 M. up the road is the village of St. Leonard, nearly all of 
whose people are French; and on the American shore (for the St. John 
River is for man}* leagues the frontier between the nations) is the simi- 
larly constituted village of Van Buren (two inns). This district is largely 
peopled by the Cyr, Violette, and Michaud families. 

The Hon. Arthur Gordon thus describes one of these Acadian homes near Grand 
River (in 1863): " The whole aspect of the farm was that of a nietairit in Nor- 
mandy ; the outer doors of the house gaudily painted, the panels of a different 
color from the frame, — the large, open, uncarpeted room, with its bare shining 
floor, — the lasses at the spinning-wheel, — the French costume and appearance of 
Madame Violet and her sons and daughters, — all carried me back to the other side 
of the Atlantic." 

Grand River (TardifF's inn) is a hamlet about 4 M. beyond St. Leonard, 
at the mouth of the river of the same name. 

The St. John River to the Restigouche. 

A rugged wilderness-journey may be made on this line, by engaging Acadian 
guides and canoes at the Madawaska settlements. 3-4 weeks will be sufficient time 
to reach the Bay of Chaleur, with plenty of fishing on the way. On leaving the St. 
John the vojagers ascend the Grand River to its tributary, the Waagansis. A port- 
age of 5-6 M. from this stream leads to the Waagan, down whose narrow current 
the canoes float through the forest until the broad Restigouche is entered (see Route 
16 ; see also Hon. Arthur Gordon in " Vacation Tourists " for 1862 - 63, p. 477). 



MAD AW ASK A. Route 13. 57 

6 M. above Grand River is St. Basil (two inns), which, with its back 
settlements, has over 1,400 inhabitants. A few miles beyond are some 
islands in the St. John River, over which is seen the American village of 
Grant Isle (Levecque's inn), a place of TOO inhabitants, all of whom are 
Acadians. This village was incorporated in 1869, and is on the U. S. mail- 
route from Van Buren to Fort Kent. Beyond the populous village of 
Green River the road continues around the great bend of the St. John to 
the Acadian settlement of Edmundston ( Whitneifs Hotel), at the con- 
fluence of the Madawaska and St. John Rivers. This is the centre of 
the Acadian-French settlements which extend from the Grand Falls. 
This district is studded with Roman Catholic chapels, and is divided into 
narrow farms, on which are quaint little houses. There are rich tracts of 
intervale along the rivers, and the people are generallj^ in a prosperous 
and happy condition. The visitor should ascend to the top of the loftily- 
situated bid block-house tower, over Edmundston, for the sake of the 
wide prospect over the district. The village is rather crude, but the 
scenery about it, including the great river, the rich meadows, the far- 
away Mt. Carmel, is very charming. The best of fishing (trout and 
whitefish, tuladi and toque, — these latter weighing from 15 to 35 pounds 
each) is to be enjoyed in this vicinit}-, particular!}^ in Fish River and the 
Eagle Lakes, Green River, and the Temiscouata region. 

This people is descended from the French colonists who lived on the shores of the 
Bay of Fundy and the Basin of Minas at the middle of the 18th century. When 
the cruel edict of exile was carried into effect in 1755 (see Route 21), many of the 
Acadians fled from the Anglo-American troops and took refuge in the forest. A por- 
tion of them ascended the St. John to the present site of Fredericton, and founded 
a new home ; but they were ejected 30 years later, in order that the land might be 
given to the refugee American Loyalists. Then they advanced into the trackless 
forest, and settled in the Madawaska region, where they have been permitted to re- 
main undisturbed. When the American frontier was pushed forward to the St. 
John River, by the sharp diplomacy of Mr. Webster, the Acadians found themselves 
divided by a national boundary ; and so they still remain, nearly half of the villages 
being on the side of the United States. It is estimated that there are now about 
8,000 persons in these settlements. 

" It was pleasant to drive along the wide flat intervale which formed the Mada- 
waska Valley ; to see the rich crops of oats, buckwheat, and potatoes; the large, 
often handsome, and externally clean and comfortable-looking houses of the inhab- 
itants, with the wooded high grounds at a distance on our right, and the river on 
our left, — on which an occasional boat, laden with stores for the lumberers, with 
the help of stout horses, toiled against the current towards the rarely visited head- 
waters of the tributary streams, where the virgin forests still stood unconscious of 
the axe. This beautiful valley, with the rich lands which border the river above 
the mouth of the Madawaska, as far almost as that of the river St. Francis, is the 
peculiar seat of the old Acadian-French." (Prof. Johnston.) 

The American village of Madawaska (two inns) is opposite Edmundston, and 
has over 1,000 inhabitants. The U. S. mail-stages run from this point up the val- 
ley of the St. John for 10 M. to another Acadian village, which was first named 
Dionne (in honor of Father Dionne, who founded here the Church of St. Luce) ; in 
1869 was incorporated as Dickey ville, in honor of some local statesman ; and in 1871 
received the name of Frenchville, " as describing the nationality of its settlers." 
From near Frenchville a portage 5 M. long leads to the shores of Lake Cleveland, 
a fine sheet of water 9 M. long, connected by Second Lake and Lake Preble with 
Lake Sedgwick, which is nearly 10 M. long. 

3* 



58 Route 13. TEMISCOUATA LAKE. 

16 M. S. W. of Madawaska is Fort Kent, an old border-post of theU. S. Army. :^t 
has two inns and about 1,000 inhabitants (including the adjacent farming settle- 
ments), and is the terminus of the mail-route from Van Buren. From this point 
stages run W. 20 M. to the Acadian Tillage of St. Francis, near the mouth of the St. 
Francis River. The latter stream, flo-ning from the N. W., is the boundary of the 
United States for the next 40 M., descending through the long lakes called A'i'ela- 
stookwaagamis, Pechtaweekaagomic, and Pohenegamook. Above the mouth of 
the St. Francis, the St. John River is included in the State of Maine, and flows 
through that immense and trackless forest which covers " an extent seven times that 
of the famous Black Forest of Germany at its largest expanse in modern times. The 
States of Rhode Island, Connecticut, and Delaware could be lost together in our 
northern forests, and still leave about each a margin of wilderness sufficiently wide 
to make the exploration without a compass a work of desperate adventure." Its 
chief tributary in the woods is the Allagash, which descends from the great Lakes 
Pemgockwahen and Chamberlain, near the Chesuncook and Moosehead Lakes and 
the head-waters of the Penobscot. 

The Eagle L.akes, in Maine, are visited hence (guides obtained at Whitney's) 
by a portage of Sg- M. from Frenchville, 5 M. above Edmundston, to Long Lake, 
whence, by Mud, Cross, Square, and Eagle Lakes, and Fish River, the canoes de- 
scend through beautiful scenery to Fort Kent, 20 M. above Edmundston. There 
are famous burbot and whitefish in these lakes. 

At Edmundston the Royal mail-route leaves the St. John River, and 
ascends the W. shore of the Madawaska. Bat few settlements are passed, 
and at 12 M. from Edmundston the Province of Quebec is entered. 
About 25 M. from Edmundston the road reaches the foot of the picturesque 
Temiseouata Lake, where there is a small village. The road is parallel 
with the water, but at a considerable distance from it, until near the 
upper part, and pretty views are afforded from various points where it 
overlooks the lake. 

Temiscounta is an Indian word meaning " Winding Water," and the lake 
is 80 M. long by 2 - 3 M. wide. The scenery is very pretty, and the clear 
deep waters contain many fish, the best of which are the tuladi, or great 
gray trout, which sometimes weighs over 12 pounds. There are also white- 
fish and burbot. Visitors to the lake usually stop at the Lake-Side House, 
where canoes may be obtained. From the W., Temiscouata receives the 
Cabineau River, the outlet of Long Lake (15 by 2 M.) ; and on the E. is 
the Tuladi River which rises in the highlands of Rimouski and flows 
down through a chain of secluded and rarely visited lakelets. The chief 
settlement on Temiscouata Lake is the French Catholic hamlet of Notre 
Dame du Lac, which was founded since 1861 and has 180 inhabitants. 
Fort Ingalls commanded the lake, and had a garrison of 200 men as late 
as 1850. 

At the mouth of the Tuladi, 285 barrels of whitefish were taken in the fall run 
of 1378. 1 M. up are falls, from which the still Tuladi may be ascended for 16 M., 
to the Forks, where the fishing is very good. Deer, bears, caribou, and other game 
abound in these vast untrodden forests. A favorite trip for sportsmen leads from 
Edmundston (by carriage) up the Madawaska to Griffin's, 16 M, , then a portage of 
21- M. to Mud Lake ; then a long and delightful canoe-descent to Fourth Squa-took 
Lake ; then down into Third Squa-took, from whose shore rises the noble-viewing 
Squa-took Peak ; and then down to the Forks, and along the Tuladi River to Temis- 
couata Lake. 

The road from Temiscouata Lake to Riviere du Loup is 40- 50 M, lon^ 
and descends through a wild regioi? into which few settlers have advanced. 



SHEDIAC. Route I4. 59 

14. St. John to Shediac. 

Distances. — St. John to Moncton, 89 M. ; Painsec Junction, 97 ; Dorchester 
Road, 102 ; Shediac, 106 ; Point du Cheue, 108. 

St. John to Painsec Junction, see Route 16. 

Passengers for Shediac and Point du Chene change cars at Painsec 
Junction, and pass to the N. E. over a level and unproductive country. 

Shediac ( Weldori's ; Waverley ) is a village of 500 inhabitants, with 3 
churches, — Baptist, the Catholic St. Joseph de Shediac, and St. Andrew's, 
the head of a rural deanery of the Anglican church. The town is well 
situated on a broad harbor, which is sheltered by Shediac Island, but its 
commerce is inconsiderable, being limited to a few cargoes of lumber and 
deals sent annually to Great Britain. The small oysters ( Ostrea canadensis) 
of the adjacent waters are also exported to the provincial cities. Shediac 
was occupied by a French garrison in 1750, to protect the borders of 
Acadia, and in 1757 there were 2,000 French and Acadian troops and 
settlers here. The French element is still predominant in this vicinity, 
and its interests are represented by a weekly paper called "Xe Moniteur 
Acadien.'" 

Point du Chene (Schurman's Point du Chene House) is 2 M. N. E. of 
Shediac, and is the E. terminus of the railway and the St. Lawrence port 
nearest to St. John. It has a village of about 200 inhabitants, with long 
piers reaching out to the deep-water channels. From this point passen- 
gers embark on the steamers for Prince Edward Island. Daily steamers 
run from Point da Chene to Summerside, P. E. I., where they make con- 
nections with the trains of the P. E. I. Railway (see Route 43) for Char- 
lottetoAvn and all parts of the island. 

Passengers leave St. John at 8 a. m., and reach Charlottetown at 8 p. m. 



The Westmorland Coast. Infrequent mail-stages run E. from Shediac by Point 
du Chene to Barachois, 8 M. ; Tedish, 17; Great Shemogue (Avard's Hotel), 22; 
and Little Shemogue, 24. These settlements contain about 1,500 inhabitants, most 
of whom are Acadians. Capes Jourimain (fixed white light, visible 14 M.) and Tor- 
mentine are respectively 15 M. and 20 M. E. of Little Shemogue. 

10-12 M. N . of Shediac (mail-stage daily) are the large and prosperous Acadian settle- 
ments of the Cocagnes (three inns), having about 1,500 inhabitants, seven eighths of 
whom are of French descent. These people are nearly all farmers, engaged in tilling 
the level plains of Dundas, although a good harbor opens between the villages. 21 M. 
from Shediac is Buctouche (two inns), a prosperous Acadian village of 400 inhab- 
itants, engaged in shipbuilding and in the exportation of lumber and oysters. 



60 Route 15. RTCHIBUCTO. 

15. The Bay of Chaleur and the North Shore of New 

Brunswick. 

Since the construction of the Intercolonial Railway, the routes of Pro- 
vincial travel have undergone many important chauf^cs, particularly 
around the N. shore of New Brunswick, where the trains on this groat 
route have supplanted the services of the steamships. Tlie regular steam- 
ship lines between Quebec and Prince Edward Island, which used to serve 
these ports, now no more visit the shores of New Brunswick. 

The following account is preserved for the use of travellers by sea, 
although the descri|)tions of the towns were revised in 3883. 

The Quebec steamships do not now go up the Ba}' of Chaleur, but the 
account of the Bay is retained for the use of voyagers by other vessels. 
A steamboat of the St. Lawrence Steam Navigation Co. leaves Campbell- 
ton every Wednesday and Saturdav, at 5 A. m., and runs out to Carleton, 
New Richmond, New Carlisle, Paspebiac, Port Daniel, Newport, Grand 
River, Percc^ and Gaspc'^ Basin. It leaves Gaspd on the return voj'age at 
2 A.M., Thursdaj's and Moiida3'3. 

The steamship leaves tlio long railway wharf at Point du Chene, and 
passes tlic low shores of Shediac Ishind on the 1. Tlio course is laid well 
out into the Northumberland Strait. Between Shediac Point and Cape 
Egmont (on Prince Edward Island) the strait is nearly 20 M. wide. On the 
1. the harl)<)rs of Cocagne and Buctoutdie (see page 50) are soon passed. 
14^ M. N. of Buctoucho are the low clifls and liglithouse of Jiichibucto 
Ileail, beyond which (if the weather ])ermits) the steamer takes a more 
westerly course, and enters the great liichibucto River, which empties its 
stream through a. broad lagoon enclosed by sand-l)ars. 

Rich.ibuoto {Kent JJutvl) is tlie capital of Kent County, and occupic^ a 
favorable position for commerce and shipbuilding, near the mouth of tlio 
RIchibucto River. It has about 800 inhabitants and 3 churches, and i.s 
engaged in the exportation offish and lumber. The river is navigable fur 
20 M., and lias been a great highway for lumber-vessels, although now the 
supply of the forests is wellnigh exhausted. Tlie rubbish of the sav,-- 
mills has destroyed the once valuable fisheries in this river. In the region 
about Richibucto are many Acadian farmers, and the hamlet of Aldouin 
River, 4 M. from the town, pertains to this people. Daily stages run from 
Richibucto to Shediac and to Chatham (see page Gl). A road leads S. W. 
through the wilderness to the Grand Lake district (lioute 10). 

Tho name Richibucto pigniflos " the River of Fire," and the shores of the river 
and l)ii.y w(m-c lonncrly iiiliiihitcd by a ferocious and bloodthirsty triljc of Tndiiin;!. 
So late lis 1 j'sy, when the American Loyalist Powell t^ottlcd hcrc^, Micre were but four 
Cliristiun familicM (and they were Acadians) in all this rej;ion (the present county of 
Kent). The power of tho llichibuctos was brolceu in 1724, when all their warriors, 



CHATHAM. Route 15. 61 

undpr commnnd of Arp;iniooali (" tlio Orojvt Wiznrd "), nttackod C;inso and captured 
17 Massacliusotta vessels. Two well-in;mne(l vessels of IJosLoii and (lape Ami were 
sent after them, and overtook tlie Indiiiii IliH'ton t\u\ c^oast. A despera.te naval lia.ttlo 
ensued betwet^n the Massachnsi>tts sloops and the Imlian i)ri/,e-sliips. 'rh(> Itichi- 
bnetos lonsxht witli grea.t valor, Imt were finally diseoneerh^l by showers of hand- 
grenades from the Americans, anel nearly every warrior was either killed or drowned. 

After cmoroino- from Kii'liihiu-to Inirbor, tlio stciimer runs N. ncross tho 
opening of the sliallow KoueliihouguMC Ray, Avlioso sliorcs arc low sfiiid- 
biirs and beaclies wliicli enclose shoal lagoons. 5 IM. above Point Sapin is 
E$cuminac Point, on which is a powcrfnl Avhite light, visible for 25 I\l. 
The course is now laid more to tho W., across the Miramichi Bay, and on 
tlie 1. are seen the pilots' village and tho lighthouses on Preston's Beach. 
'Hie entrance to the Inner Bay of Miramichi is between Fox Island and 
I'ortage Island, the latter of which bears a lighthouse. The Inner Bay is 
!;> M. long and 7-8 M. wide, and on tho S. is seen Vin Island, back of 
whit'li is tho B(ty du i-7/i. Two centuries ago all this shoro was occupied 
by l<'rencli settlements, whone only remnant now is tho hamlet of Portago 
i.'oad, in a remote corner of the bay. 

Wiien about 9 M. from the. entrance, the steamer passes between Point 
Quart and Grand Dune Island (on the r.), which are 3^ M. apart. 3-4 
]\I. farther on, the course is between Oak Point, with its two lighthouses 
(on the r.), and Cheval Point, beyond which is the populous valley of tho 
Napan River, on tho S. The hamlet of Black Brook is visible on the 1., 
and otr Point Napan is Sheldrake Island, a low and swampy land lying 
across the mouth of the river. Tiie vessel now enters tho Miramichi 
Rivor, and on the r. is the estuary of the Great Bartibog, with the beacon- 
lights on Malcolm Point. The Miramichi is hero a noble stream, fully 
1 M. wide, but flowing between low and uninteresting shores. 

Chatham ( Canada Hotel; Bowser's Hotel) is the chief town on the North 
Shore, and has a population of nearly 8,000, with 5 churches, a weekly 
newspaper, and a Masonic hall. It is 24 M. from the sea, and is built 
along the S. shore of the river for a distance of li M. On the summit of 
the hill along which the town is built is seen a great pile of Catholic in- 
stitutions, among which are the Cathedral of St. Michael, the convent and 
hospital of the Hotel Dieu do Chatham, and St. Michael's College. These 
buildings, like all the rest of the town, are of wood. The chief industries 
of Chatham are shipbuilding and the exportation of fish and lumber, and 
the river here usually contains several largo ships, which can anchor off 
tho wharves in 6-8 fathoms. 



About 22 M. beyond Chatham arc tho hoad-watcrs of the Tabusiiitac Rivor, 

" the spDrtsman'd paradise," a narrow and shallow stream in which an abuudauce 
of trout is found. 

Tri-weekly sta;j,cs run from Chatham N. E. to Oak Point, 11 M. ; Burnt Church, 
20; Neguac, 25; Tabusintae, 37; Tnicadie, 52; I'oekmouche, (54; Shipi)igan, 70; 
aud Caraquette (Lower), 73. Tho first 30 M. of tills road arc along (or near) tho N. 
shore of the Miramichi Uiver aud the luuor liay, by the hamlets of Oak Poiut and 
Burnt Church. 



62 Route 15. THE MIRAMICHI. 

Burnt CliTircli is still the capital of the Micmac Indians of the Prorince, and 
here they gather in great numbers on St. Anne's Day and engage in religious rite^ 
and athletic sports and dances. Hon. Arthur Gordon says: "I was surprised by 
the curious resemblance between these dances and those of the Greek peasantry. 
Even the costumes were in some degree similar, and I noticed more than one short 
colored-silk jacket and handkerchief-bound head that carried me back to Ithaca 
and Paxo." (Vacation Tourists, 1863 ) 

Tabusintac (small inn) is near the mouth of the Tabusintac River, and is a 
Presbyterian village of about 400 inhabitants, most of whom are engaged in the 
fisheries. Many large sea-trout are caught near the mouth of the river, and in 
October immense numbers of wild geese and ducks are shot in the adjacent lagoons. 

Traf-adie is a settlement which contains 1,2C0 French Acadians, and is situated 
near a broad lagoon which lies inside a line of sand-bars. Salmon, cod, and herring 
are found in the adjacent v.aters, and most of the people are engaged in thefish- 
eries. The Tracadie Lazaretto is devoted to the reception of persons afflicted with 
the leprosy, which prevails to some extent in this district, but has diminished since 
the government secluded the lepers in this remote hospital There is an old tradi- 
tion that the leprosy was introduced into this region during the last century, when 
a French vessel was wrecked on the coast, some of whose sailors were from Mar- 
seilles and had contracted the true elephantiasis grceconnn (Eastern leprosy) in the 
Levant. Its perpetuation and hereditary transmission is attributed to the closeness 
of the relation in which intermarriage is sanctioned among the Acadians (sometimes 
by dispensations from the Church) 

Pockmouche is a settlement of 800 Acadian farmers, and here the mail-route 
forks, — one road running 6 M. N. E. to Shippigan (see page 64), the other run- 
ning 9 M. N. to Lower Caraquette (see page 66j. 

River-steamers run up the N. W. and S. \V. branches, and occasionally to Burnt 
Church and Bay du Yin. Another river-steamer runs up the river four times daily 
to Newcastle (6 M.), touching at Dougiastown, a dingy village on the N. bank, where 
much lumber is loaded ou the ships which take it hence to Europe. This village 
contains about 400 inhabitants, and has a marine hospital, built of stone. 

Newcastle ( Waverley Hotel) is the capital of ISTorthumberland County, 
and is situated at the head of deep-water navigation on the Miramichi 
River. It has about 1,500 inhabitants, and is engaged in shipbuilding 
and the exportation of fish and lumber, oysters, and preserved lobsters. 
One of the chief stations of the Intercolonial Railway is located here, and a 
branch line has been built to Chatham. 150,000,000 ft. of lumber are ex- 
ported hence annually. There are 5 churches here. 

A short distance above Newcastle, and beyond the Irish village of Nel- 
son, is the confluence of the great rivers known as the N. W. Miramichi 
and the S. W. ]\Iiramiohi. These streams are crossed by the largest and 
most costly bridges on the line of the Intercolonial Railway. The name 
Miramichi signifies "Happy Retreat," and signifies the love that the In- 
dians entertained for these fine hunting and fishing grounds. The upper 
waters of the rivers traverse wide districts of unsettled country, and are 
visited by hardy and adventurous sportsmen, who capture large numbers 
of trout and salmon. This system of waters is connected by portages with 
the Nepisiguit, the Restigouche, the Upsalquitch, the Tobique, and the 
Nashwaak Rivers. The best salmon-pools are on the S. W. Miramichi, 
beyond Boiestown, at the mouths of the Salmon, Rocky, Clearwater, and 
Burnt Hill Brooks. A tri-weekly stage runs from Newcastle to Boies- 
town and Fredericton (see page 46), traversing 105 M. of a rude and 
sparsely settled country. >» 



SHIPPIGAN ISLAND. Route 15. 63 

Beaubair^s Island is off upper Nelson, and was formerly occupied by a prosperous 
French town, but few relics of which are now to be seen. It was destroyed by a 
British naval attack in 1759. A colony was planted here in 1722, under Cardinal 
Fleury's administration, and was provided with 200 houses, a church, and a IG gun 
baf'ery. 

In 1642-44 the Miramichi district was occupied by Jean Jaques Enaud, a Basque 
gentleman, who founded trading-posts on the islands and entered also upon the 
walrus fisheries. But a contention soon arose between Enaud's men and the In- 
dians, by reason of which the Basque establishments were destroyed, and their peo- 
ple were forced to flee to Nepisiguit. In 1672, after the Treaty of Breda, several 
families from St. Malo lauded on this coast and founded a village at Bay du Vin. 
From 1740 to 1757 a flourishing trade was carried on between the Miramichi country 
and France, great quantities of furs being exported. But the crops fiiled in 1757, 
and tlie relief-ships from France were captured by the British. In the winter of 
1758 the transport i>'//it?/CT)ne, of Morlaix, was wrecked in the bay, and the dis- 
heartened colonists, famished and pestilence-stricken, were rapidly depleted by 
death. Many of the French settlers died during the winter, and were buried on 
Beaubair's Point. Those who survived fled from the scene of such bitter suffering, 
and by the arrival of spring there were not threescore inhabitants about the bay. 

In 1759 a British war-vessel entered the bay for wood and water, and the first 
boat's-crew which landed was cut off and exterminated by the Indians. The frigate 
bombarded the French Fort batteries, and annihilated the town at Canadian Cove. 
Then sailing to the N. E., the commander lauded a force at Neguac, and burnt the 
Catholic chapel, the inhabitants having fled to the woods. Neguac is known to this 
day only by the name of Burnt Ohui'ch. After this fierce foray all the N. coast of 
New Brunswick was deserted and relapsed into a wilderness state. 

In 1775 there was an insignificant Scotch trading-post on the S. W. Miramichi, 
where 1,500-1,800 tierces of salmon were caught annually. This was once surprised 
and plundered by the Indians in sympathy with the Americans, but in 1777 the 
river was visited by the sloop-of-war Viper and the captured American privateer 
Lafayette. The American flag was displayed on the latter vessel, and it was given 
out that her crew were Bostonians, by which means 35 Indians from the great coun- 
cil at Bartibog were decoyed on board and carried captive to Quebec. 

In 1786 the Scottish settlers opened large saw-mills on the N. \Y. Miramichi, and 
several families of American Loyalists settled along the shore. Vast numbers of 
masts and spars were sent hence to the British dock-yards, and the growth of the 
Miramichi was rapid and satisfactory. In 1793 the Indians of the hills gathered 
secretly and concerted plans to exterminate the settlers (who had mostly taken 
refuge in Chatham), but the danger was averted by the interposition of the French 
Catholic priests, who caused the Indians to disperse. 

In October, 1825, this district was desolated by the great Miramichi Fire, wliich 
swept over 3,000,000 acres of forest, and destroyed $ 1,000,000 worth of property and 
160 human lives. The town of Newcastle was laid in ashes, and all the lower Mi- 
ramichi Valley became a blackened wilderness. The only escape for life was by 
rushing into the rivers while the storm of fire passed overhead ; and here, nearly 
covered by the hissing waters, were men and women, the wild animals of the woods, 
and the domestic beasts of the farm. 

On leaving the Miramichi Eiver and Bay the vessel steams out into the 
Gulf, leaving on the N. W. the lov;^ shores of Tabusintac and Tracadie, in- 
dented by wide and shallow lagoons (see page 62). After running about 
35 M. the low red cliffs of Shippigan Island are seen on the W. This 
island is 12 M. long by 8 M. wide, and is inhabited by Acadian fishermen. 
On the S. W. shore is the hamlet of Alexander Point, on Alemek Bay, 
opposite the populous village and magnificent harbor of Sliij^pigan. There 
are valuable fisheries of herring, cod, and mackerefoff" these shores, and 
the deep triple harbor is well sheltered by the islands of Shippigan and 
Pocksuedie, forming a secure haven of refuge for the American and Cana- 
dian fleets. Noble wild-duck shooting here in spring and fall. 



64 Route 15. BAY OF CHALEUR. 

Sliippigan Harbor, though still surrounded by forests, has occupied a prom- 
inent place in the calculations of commerce and travel. It has been proposed that 
the Intercolonial Railway shall connect here with a transatlantic steamship line, 
thus withdrawing a large portion of the summer travel from Halifax and New York. 
The distance from Shippigan to Livei-pool by the Straits of Belleisle is 148 M. less 
than the distance from Halifax to Liverpool, and Shippigan is 271 M. nearer Montreal 
than is Halifax. 

Tlie Ocean Ferry. — The following plan is ingeniously elaborated and pow- 
erfully supported, and is perhaps destined to reduce the transatlantic passage to 
100 hours. It is to be carried out with strong, swift express steamers on the Ocean 
and the Gulf, and through trains on the railways. The itinerary is as follows : 
London to Valentia, 640 M., 16 hours ; Valentia to St. John's, N. F., 1,640 M., 100 
hours ; St. John's to St. George's Bay (across Newfoundland by railway), 250 M., 
8|- hours; St. George's Bay to Shippigan (across the Gulf), 250 M., 15^ hours; 
Shippigan to New York, 906 M., 31 hours ; London to New York, 171 hours, or 1^ 
days. It is claimed that this route would escape the dangers between Cape Race 
and New York ; would give usually quiet passages across the Gulf; would diversify 
the monotonj'- of the long voyage by three transfers, and would save 4-6 days on 
the recorded averages of the steamships between New York and Liverpool (see maps 
and details in Sandford Fleming's " Intercolonial Railway Survey "). 

The steamer now crosses the Miscou Banks, and approaches Miscoa 
Island, which is 20 M. in circumference and contains about 300 inhab- 
itants. On its S. shore is a fine and spacious harbor, wliich is much used 
as a place of refuge in stormy weather by the American fishing-fleets. 

Settlements -were formed here early in the 17th century by the French, for the 
purpose of hunting the walrus, or sea-cow. Such an exterminating war was waged 
upon this valuable aquatic animal that it soon became extinct in the Gulf, and was 
followed into the Arctic Zone. AVithin five years a few walruses have been seen in 
the Gulf, and it is hoped that they may once more enter these waters in droves. At 
an early date the Jesuits established the mission of St. Charles de Miscou, but the 
priests were soon killed by the climate, and no impression had been made on the 
Indians. It is claimed that there may still be seen tlie ruins of the post of the Royal 
Company of Miscou, which was founded in 1635 for the pursuit offish and walruses, 
and for a time derived a great revenue from this district. Fortifications were also 
erected here by M. Denys, Sieur de Fronsac. 

Tlae steamer alters her course gradually to the W. and passes the 
fixed red light on Bii-ch Point, and Point Miscou, with its high green 
knoll. Between Point ]\Iiscou and Cape Despair, 25 M. N., is the en- 
trance to the Bay of Chaleur. 

The Bay of Chaleur was known to the Indians by the name of Echetuam 
Nemaache, signifying "a Sea of Fish," and that name is still api^licable, 
since the bay contains every variety of fish known on these coasts. It is 
90 M. long and from 10 to 25 M. wide, and is nearly free from shoals or 
dangerous reefs. The waters are comparatively tranquil, and the air is 
clear and bracing and usually free from fog, affording a marked contrast 
to the climate of the adjacent Gulf coasts. The tides are regular and have 
but little velocity. The length of the bay, from Point Miscou to Camp- 
bellton, is about 110 M. These waters are visited every year b}^ great 
American fleets, manned by the hardy seamen of Cape Cod and Glouces- 
ter, and valuable cargoes of fish are usually carried back to the Massa- 
chusetts ports. 



BATHURST. Rmite 15. 65 

This bay was discovered by Jaques Cartier in the summer of 1535, and, froni the 
fact that the heated season was at its height at that time, he named it La Baie des 
Chaleurs (the Bay of Heats). On the earliest maps it is also called La Baie des 
Espagnols, indicating that it was frequented by Spanish vessels, probably for the 
purposes of fishing. 

In these waters is located the scene of the old legend of the Massachusetts coast, 
relative to Skipper Ireson's misdeed, which, with the record of its punishment, has 
been commemorated in the poetry of \Yhittier : — 



* Small pity for him I — He sailed away 
From a leaking ship in Chaleur Bay, — 
Sailed away from a sinking wreck, 
"With his own town's-people on her deck ' 
' Lay by '. lay by ! ' they called to him ; 
Back lie answered, ' Sink or swim ! 
Brag of your catch of fish again ! ' 
And off he sailed through the fog and rain. 
Old Floyd Ireson, for his hard heart, 
Tarred and feathered and carried in a cart 
By the women of Marblehead. 



" Fathoms deep in dark Chaleur 
That wreck shall lie forevermore. 
ISIother and sister, wife and maid. 
Looked from the rocks of Marbleliead 
Over the moaning and rainy sea, — 
Looked for the coming that might not be ! 
What did the winds and the sea-birds say 
Of the cruel captain who sailed away ? — 
Old Floyd Ireson, for his hard heart, 
Tarred and feathered and carried in a cart 
By the women of Marblehead." 



When well within the bay the steamer assumes a course nearly S. W., 
leaving ]\Iiscou and Shippigan Islands astern. The broad Caraquetfe Bay 
is on the S., and the New-Bandon shores (see page 66) are followed into 
Nepisiguit Bay. The harbor of Bathurst is entered by a strait two cables 
wide, between Alston Point and Carron Point, on the latter of which 
there are red and white beacon-lights. 

Bathurst {Wilbur Rouse), the capital of Gloucester County, has 1,000 
inhabitants, and stands on a peninsula 2J M. from the bay. Large quan- 
tities of fish are sent hence to the American cities; and the exportation of 
frozen salmon has become an important business. The Intercolonial Rail- 
way has a station near Bathurst. The beautiful Basin of Bathurst re- 
ceives the waters of four rivers, and its shores are already well populated 
by farmers. Pleasant drives and sailing routes amid lovely scenery abound 
hereabouts, and give Bathurst a summer-resort air. It is 3 M. to the fine 
beach of Alston Point, near which there are farm boarding-houses. 

The Basin of Bathurst was called by the Indians WinkapiguwicJc, or Nepisiguit, 
signifying the " Foaming Waters." It was occupied in 1638 by M. Enaud, a wealthy 
Basque gentleman, and his retainers, forming a town called St. Pierre. Enaud mar- 
ried a Mohawk princess, founded mills, and established an extensive fur-trade, erect- 
ing a commodious mansion at Abshaboo (Coal Point), at the mouth of the Nepisiguit. 
But some family troubles ensued, and Madame Enaud's brother slew her husband, 
after which the French settlements were plundered by the Indians, and such of the 
inhabitants as could not escape by way of the sea were massacred. 

By 1670 the Chaleur shores were again studded with French hamlets, and occu- 
pied by an industrious farming population. In 1692 the Micmacs confederated 
against them, and, under the command of the sagamore Halion, completely devas- 
tated the whole district and compelled the settlers to fly ta Canada. Thenceforward 
for 74 years this country waS unvisited by Europeans. In 1764 a Scotch trading- 
post and fort was erected at Alston Point, on the N. shore of Bathurst harbor, and 
thence were exported great quantities of furs, moose-skins, walrus hides and tusks, 
and salmon. In 1776 this flourishing settlement was destroyed by American priva- 
teers, which also devastated the other shores of Chaleur. The present town was 
founded in 1818 by Sir Howard Douglas, and was named in honor of the Earl of 
Bathurst. 

The Nepisiguit Kiver empties into Bathurst harbor, and is famous for 
its fine fishing. The riparian owners have sold their fishing rights to Bos- 



66 Route 15. CARAQUETTE. 

ton people, and to the Nepisiguit Angling Club of St. John, N. B., iroxp. 
whom a fishhig permit may be bought. A road ascends for 35 M., 
passing the Rough Waters, the brilliant rapids of the Pabineau Falls (9 M. 
up), the dark pools of the Betaboc reach, the Chain of Rocks, and the 
Narrows. The * Grand Falls of the Nepisiguit are 20 M. above Bathurst, 
and consist of 4 distinct and step-like cliffs, with a total height of 140 ft. 
They are at the head of the Narrows, where the river flows for 3-4 M. 
through a cafion between high cliffs of slaty rock. The river boldly takes 
the leap over this Titanic stairway, and the ensuing roar is deafening, 
while the base of the cliff is shrouded in white spray. From the profound 
depths at the foot the river whirls away in a black and foam-flecked 
course for 2 M. 

" Good by, lovely Nepisiguit, stream of the beautiful pools, the fisherman's 
elysium; farewell to thy merry, noisy current, thy long quiet stretches, thy high 
bluffs, thy wooded and thy rocky shores. Long may thy music lull the innocent 
angler into day-dreams of happiness. Long may thy romantic scenery charm the 
eye and gladden the heart of the artist, and welcome the angler to a happy sylvan 
home." (Roosevelt.) 

The * Grand Fulls of the Tete-?i-gouche River are about 8 M. W. of Bathurst, and 
may be visited by carriage. The river here falls about 30 ft., amid a wild confusion 
of rocks and cliffs. 

Tri- weekly stages run E. from Bathurst to Salmon Beach, 8 M. ; Jaraes- 
ville, 12: Clifton, 15; New Bandon, 20; Pockshaw, 28; Grand Anse, 28; 
Upper Caraquette, 36; Lower Caraquette, 43; Shippigan, 60. Fare to 
Caraquette, $ 3.50. This road follows the shores of the Nepisiguit Bay and 
the Bay of Clialeur for nearly 30 M. The hamlets of Clifton (small inn) 
and Neio Bandon were settled by Irish immigrants, and are now engaged 
in making grindstones. Pockshaw has an inn and about 600 inhabitants. 
Grand Anse is an Acadian settlement, and has 700 inhabitants, who are 
engaged in farming and fishing. Thence the road runs 8 M. S. E. to Upper 
Caraquette, where there are about 600 Acadians. Loioer Caraquette (two 
inns) is a French village of 1,500 inhabitants, and is famous for its strong, 
swift boats and skilful mariners. 

Caraquette was founded in 1768 by a colony of Bretons, and owed a part of its 
early growth to intermarriages with the Micmacs. It is a long street of farms in the 
old Acadian style, and is situated in a fruitful and well-cultivated country. The 
view from the hills over the village, and especially from the still venerated spot 
where the old chapel stood, is very pleasant, and includes Miscou and Shippigan, 
the G-aspe ports, and the bold Quebec shores. The Jersey house of Robin & Co. 
has one of its fishing-establishments here, and does a large business. 

Caraquette is one of the chief stations of the N. shore fisheries. In the year 1873 
the fish product of the three lower Maritime Provinces amounted to the value of 
$9,060,342. Nova Scotia caught ^6,577.086 worth of fish; and New Brunswick 
caught % 2,285,660 worth, of which f 527,312 were of salmon, $500,306 of herring, 
$346,925 of lobsters, $338,699 of codfish, $ 108,514 of alewives, $90,065 of hake, 
$64,396 of pollock, $45,480 of oysters, $41,851 of smelt, and $35,477 of mackerel. 

The line of the highway, and the noble-viewing railway track (with several sta- 
tions) follow the coast of the Bay of Chaleur to the N. W. to IMedisco : Rochette, 12 M. ; 
Belledune, 20; Belledune River, 24 ; Armstrong's Brook, 28; River Louison, 33; 
New Mills, 38 ; River Charlo, 44 ; and Dalhousie, 52. Medisco and Rochette are 
French villages ; the others are of British origin , and none of them have as many 



DALHOUSIE. Route 15. 67 

as 500 inhabitants. Many small streams enter the bay from this coast, and the 
■whole district is famous for its iishing and hunting (water-fowl). The hne of this 
shore is followed by the Intercolonial Railway. 

Off Bathurst the Bay of Chaleur is over 25 M. wide, and the steamer 
passes out and takes a course to the N. W., passing the hamlet of Rochette, 
and soon rounding Belledune Point. The imposing liighlands of tlie Gas- 
pesian peninsula are seen on the N. with the peak of Tracadiegash. Tlie 
passage between Tracadiegash Point and Heron Island is about 7 M. wide; 
and 6-8 M. beyond the steamer passes Maguacha Point {Maguacha, In- 
dian for "Always Red") on the r., and enters the Restigouche Harbor. 

" To the person approaching by steamer from the sea, is presented one of the 
most superb and fascinating panoramic views in Canada. The whole region is 
mountainous, and almost precipitous enough to be alpine; but its grandeur is 
derived less from cliffs, chasms, and peaks, than from far-reaching sweeps of out- 
line, and continually rising domes that mingle with the clouds. On the Gaspe 
side precipitous cliffs of brick-red sandstone flank the shore, so lofty that they 
seem to cast their gloomy shadows half-way across the Bay, and yawning with 
rifts and gullies, through which fretful torrents tumble into the sea. Behind 
them the mountains rise and fall in long undulations of ultramarine, and, tow- 
ering above them all, is the famous peak of Tracadiegash flashing in the sunhght 
Uke a pale blue amethyst.^' (Hallock.) 

DalhoTisie (five hotels) is a village of 600 inhabitants, situated at 
the mouth of the long estuary of the Restigouche, and is the capital of 
Restigouche County. It faces on the harbor from three sides, and has 
great facilities for commerce and for handling lumber. The manufacture 
and exportation of lumber are here carried on on a large scale; and the 
town is also famous for its shipments of lobstei's and salmon. The salmon 
fisheries in this vicinity are of great value and productiveness. The line 
of the Intercolonial Railway is about 4 M. S. of Dalhousie. The site of 
this port was called Sickadomec by the Indians. 50 years ago there were 
but two log-houses here, but the district was soon occupied by hardy 
Highlanders from Arran, whose new port and metropolis was "located in 
an alpine wilderness." Directly back of the village is Mt. Dalhousie, 
and the harbor is protected by the high shores of Dalhousie Island. Bo- 
nami Point is at the entrance of the harbor, and has a fixed white light; 
and Fleurant Point is opposite the town, across the estuary. 

" The Bay of Chaleur preserves a river-like character for some distance from the 
point where the river may strictly be said to terminate, and certainly offers the 

most beautiful scenery to be seen in the Province From Mr. Fraser's to the 

sea, a distance of some 20 M. by water, or 14 by land, the course of the river is 
really beautiful. Swollen to dimensions of majestic breadth, it flows calmly on, 
among picturesque and lofty hills, undisturbed by rapids, and studded with in- 
numerable islands covered with the richest growth of elm and maple The 

whole of the distance from Campbellton to Dalhousie, a drive of 17 M. along the coast 
of the Bay of Chaleur, on an excellent high-road, presents a succession of beautiful 
views across the narrow bay, in which Tracadiegash, one of the highest of the Gaspe 
mountains, always forms a conspicuous object, jutting forward as it does into the 
sea below Dalhousie." (Hon. Arthur Gordon) 

" Nothing can exceed the grandeur and beauty of the approach to the estuary of 
the ilestigouche. The pointed hills in the background, the deep green forest with 
its patches of cultivation, and the clear blue of the distant mountains, form a pic- 
ture of the most exquisite kind." (Sir R. Bonntcastle. ) 



68 Route 15. CAMPBELLTON. 

"The expanse of three miles across the mouth of the Restigouche, the dreamy 
alpine land beyond, and the broad plain of the Bay of Chaleur, present one of the 
most splendid and fascinating panoramic prospects to be found on the continent of 
America, and has alone rewarded us for the pilgrimage we have made." (Charles 

Lanman.) 

The estuary of the Restigouche is 2-4 M. wide, and extends from Dal- 
housie to Campbellton, about 16 M. Point a la Garde is 9 M. above Dal- 
housie on the N. shore, and is a bold perpendicu.lar promontory overlooking 
the harbor. On this and Battery Point (the next to the W.) were the 
extensive French fortifications wliich were destroyed by Admiral Byron's 
British squadron in 1780. Several pieces of artillery and other relics have 
been obtained from the water off these points. Battery Point is a rocky 
promontory 80 ft. high, with a plain on the top, and a deep channel around 
its shores. Point Pleasant is 4 M. distant, and 1 M. back is a spiral mass 
of granite 700 ft. high, which is accessible by natural steps on the E. Ig 
M. from this peak is a pretty forest-lake, in which red trout are abundant. 
5 M. N. of Point a la Garde is the main peak of the Scaumenac Mts., which 
attains an altitude of 1,745 ft. 

Campbellton (three hotels) is situated in a diversified region of hills at 
the head of deep-water navigation on the Restigouche, which is here 1 M. 
wide. The Bay-Chaleur steamboats leave here twice weekly, for Paspebiac, 
Gaspe, etc. One of the chief stations of the Intercolonial Railway is lo- 
cated here. The adjacent country is highly picturesque, and is studded 
with conical hills, the chief of which is Sugar Loaf, 900 ft. high. 

Mission Point is nearly opposite Campbellton, and is surrounded by fine 
hill-scenery, which has been likened to that of Wales. The river is rapid 
off these shores, and abounds in salmon. This place is also known as 
Point-a-la-Croix, and is one of the chief villages and reser^'ations of the 
Micraac Indians. It has about 500 inhabitants, with a Catholic church. 

The Micmac language is said to be a dialect of the Huron tongue ; while the Mili- 
cetes, on the St. John River, speak a dialect of Delaware origin. These two tribes 
have an annual council at Mission Point, at which delegates from the Penobscot 
Indians are in attendance. The Micmac nation occupies the waste places of the 
Maritime Provinces, from Newfoundland to Gaspe, and numbers over 6,000 souls. 
These Indians are daring and tireless hunters and fishermen, and lead a life of con- 
stant roving, gathering annually at the local capitals, — Chapel Island, in Cape 
Breton ; Ponhook Lake, in Nova Scotia ; and Mission Point, in Quebec. They are 
increasing steadily in numbers, and are becoming more valuable members of the 
Canadian nation. They have hardly yet recovered from the terrible defeat which 
was inflicted on them by an invading army of Mohawks, in 1639. The flower of tiic 
Maritime tribes hastened to the border to repel the enemy, but they were met by 
the Mohawks in the Restigouche country, and were annihilated on the field of 
battle. 

The chief of the Micmacs at Mssion Point visited Queen Victoria in 1850, and was 
kindly welcomed and received many presents. When Lord Aylmer, Governor Gen- 
eral of Canada, visited Gasp6, he was waited on by 500 Indians, whose chief made 
him a long harangue. But the tribe had recently recovered from a wreck (among 
other things) a box of decanter-labels, marked Ricvi", Brandt, Gin, etc. , and the noble 
chief , not knowing their purport, had adorned his ears and nose with them , and 
Burrounded his head with a crown of the same materials. When the British officers 
recognized the familiar names, they burst into such a peal of laughter as drove the 
astonished and incensed chief from their presence forever. 



RESTIGOUCHE RIVER. Route 15. 69 

3 M. above Mission Point is Point au Bourdo, the ancient site of La 
Petite Rochelle, deriving its present name from Capt. Bonrdo, of the French 
frigate MarchauU, Avho was killed in the battle off this point and Avas 
buried here. Fragments of the French vessels, old artillery, camp equip- 
ments, and shells have been found in great numbers in this vicinity. 

In 1760 Restigouche was .defended by 2 batteries, gari-isoned by 250 French regu- 
lars, 700 Acadians, and 700 Indians ; and in the harbor lay the French war-vessels 
Marchault, 32, Bienfaisant , 22, and Marquis Marloye, 18, with 19 prize-ships which 
had been captured from the English. The place was attacked by a powerful British 
fleet, consisting of the Fmne, 74, Dorsetshire, Scarborougk, Achilles, and Repulse, all 
under the command of Commodore John Byron (grandfather of the poet. Lord By- 
ron). But little resistance was attempted; and the French fleet and batteries sur- 
rendered to their formidable antagonist. The captured ships were carried to Louis- 
bourg, and the batteries and the 200 houses of Restigouche were destroyed. 

The Restigouche River is a stately stream which is navigable for 135 
M. above Campbellton. It runs thi'ough level lands for several miles above 
its mouth, and then is enclosed between bold and rugged shores. There 
are hundreds of low and level islands of a rich and yearly replenished soil ; 
and above the Tomkedgwick are wide belts of intervale. 30 M. from its 
mouth it receives the waters of the Metapedia River, flowing down from 
the Metis Mts. ; and 35 M. from the mouth is the confluence of the trout- 
abounding Upsalquitch. 21 M. forther up is the mouth of the Patapedia; 
and 20 M. beyond this point the Tomkedgwick comes in from the N. W. 
This system of waters drains over 6,000 square miles of territory, and is 
connected by portages with the streams which lead into the Bay of Fundy 
and the River St. LaAvrence. 

Campbellton to the St. Lawrence River. 

The Metapedia Road leaves the N. shore of the Restigouche a few miles 
above Campbellton, and strikes through the forest to the N. W. for the St. 
Lawrence River. This is the route of the new Intercolonial Railway, 
which passes up through the wilderness to St. Flavie. The distance from 
Campbellton to St. Flavie is 106 M., and the railway-fare is f 3. This 
road leads across the barren highlands of Gaspe, and through one of the 
most thinly settled portions of Canada. 

The French hamlet of St. Alexis is near the mouth of the Metapedia 
River. Metapedia is 15 M. above Campbellton, and is situated amid the 
pretty scenery at the confluence of the Metapedia and Restigouche Rivers. 
The salmon-fisheries in this vicinity attract a few enthusiastic sportsmen 
every year. Near the confluence is the old Eraser mansion, famous among 
the travellers of earlier days. The Intercolonial Railway ci-osses the Resti- 
gouche in this vicinity, and has a station at Metapedia. 60 M. beyond this 
village is the Metapedia Lake. 

The Metapedia Lake is 12 M. long by 2 M. Avide, and is^^surrounded by 
low shores of limestone, above and beyond Avhich are distant ranges of 
highlands. Its waters abound in tuladi (gray trout), trout, and white-fish, 



70 Route 16. ST. JOHN TO HALIFAX. 

and afford good sporting. The lake contains a large island, whicli is a 
favorite breeding-place of loons. 

St. Flavie (two inns) is a village of 450 French people, situated on the 
S. shore of the Eiver St. Lawrence, and is the point where the Intercolonial 
Railway reaches the river and turns to the S. W. towards Quebec. It is 
distant from Campbellton, 106 M.; from Father Point, 15 M.; from Riviere 
du Loup, 83 M. ; and from Quebec, 210 M. 

16. St. John to Amherst and Halifax. 

The Intercolonial Railway. 

This route traverses the S. E. counties of New Brunswick, passes the isthmus at 
the head of the Bay of Fundj', and after crossing the Cobequid Mts. and rounding 
the head of Cobequid Bay. runs S. W. to the city of Hahfax. It traverses some in- 
teresting districts and has a few glimpses of attractive scenery, but the views are 
generally monotonous and without any striking beauties. During calm and pleasant 
weather the traveller will find the Annapolis route (see Route 18) much the pleas- 
anter way to go from St. John to Halifax. 

There is no change of cars between St. John and Halifax, and baggage is checked 
through. During the summer there is a day express-ti-ain, leaving St. John at 7 
A. M., and due at Ilalifax at 7.40 p. M. ; and a night express, leaving St. John at 8.30 
P. M., and due at Ilalifax at 9 a. m. Pullman-cars have recently been introduced on 
this line. 

Stations. — St. John ; Moosepath, 3 M. ; Brookville, 5 ; Torryburn, 6 ; River- 
side, 7 ; Rothesay, 9 ; Quispamsis. 12 ; Kauwigewauk,17 ; Hampton, 2*2 ; Pas.<^ekeag, 
26; Bloomficld, 27; Norton, 83; Apohaqui, 39; Sussex, 44; Plumwcseep, 47; 
Penob.'5quis, 51; Anagance,CO; Petitcodiac, 66; PoUet River, 71; Salisbury, 76; 
Boundary Creek, 79; Moncton, 89; Humphrey, 91 ; Painsec Junction, 97 (Dorches- 
ter Road, 102 ; Shediac, 106 ; Point du Chene, 108) ; Jleadow Brook, 101 ; Wemram- 
cook, 108; Dorchester, 116; Sackville, 127; Aulac, 131; Amherst, 138 ; Nappan, 
144; Maccan,147; Athol, 151 ; Spring Hill, 156 ; Salt Springs, 104; River Philip, 
167 ; Thompson, 174 ; Greenville, 181 ; Wentworth, 187 ; Folly Lake, 191 ; Loudoa- 
derry, 199; Debert, 204 ; Ishgonish, 208; Truro, 216; Johnson, 220; Brookfield, 
224; Polly Bog, 229; Stewiacke, 283 ; Shubenacadie, 238; Milford, 242; Elmsdale, 
247; Enfield, 249; Grand Lake, 254; Wellington, 256; AVindsor Junction, 264; 
Rocky Lake, 266 ; Bedford, 269 ; Four-Mile House, 273 ; Halifax, 276. 

Fares from St. John. — To Sussex, 1st class, $ 1.32, — 2d class, 88c. ; to Moncton, 
1st class, $2.07, — 2d class, $1.78; to Shediac, 1st class, $! 3, — 2d class, $ 2 ; to 
Amherst, 1st class, S3. 78, — 2d class, S2.52 ; to Truro, 1st class, 35 5.02, —2d class, 
$ 3.35 ; to Halifax, l^t class, S 6, — 2d class, $ 4. 

Fares from Halifax.— Ho Truro, 1st class, $1 86, — 2d class, $1.24 ; to Pictou, 
1st class,'$ 3 18, — 2d class. $ 2.12 ; to Amherst, 1st class, $ 3.78, — 2d class, $ 2.52 ; 
to Sherliac. 1st class, $4.56, — 2d class, $3.04; to Sussex, 1st class, $5.31,— '2d 
class, % 3 54 ; to St. John, 1st class, $ 6, — 2d class, $ 4. 

TTay-passengers can estimate their expenses easily on the basis of 3c. per mile for 
1st class, and 2c. per mile for 2d class tickets, which is the tariff fixed by the 
Canadian Government for all distances of less than 100 M. on its national rail- 
ways. 

On leaving the Valley station, in the city of St. John (see page 19), the 
train passes out into the Marsh Valley, which is ascended for several miles 
(see page 22). A short distance beyond Moosepath Park the line crosses 
Lawlor's LaTce on an embankment which cost heavily, on account of the 
great depth to.which the ballasting sunk. The Kennebecasis Bay is soon 
seen, on the L, and is skirted for 5 M., passing the villas of Rothesay (see 
page 22), and giving pleasant vi^s over the broad waters. Quispam- 



SUSSEX VALE. Route 16. 71 

sis station is 3 M. S. of Gondola Point, whence a ferry crosses the Ken- 
nebecasis to the pretty hamlet of Clifton. The naiTowing valley is now- 
followed to the N. E., with occasional glimpses of the river on the 1. 
Hampton (two hotels) is the shire-town of Kings County, whose new pub- 
lic buildings are seen to the r. of the track. It is a thriving village of re- 
cent origin, and is visited in summer by the people of St. John, on account 
of the hill-scenery in the vicinity. 

St. Martin's, or Quaco, is about 30 M. S. E., on the Bay of Fundy, and is now 
connefted with Ilauiptou by a new railway. (It is also visited by daily stage 
from St. John in 32 M., fare"$ 1.50 ; a rugged road.) This is one of the chief ship- 
building towns in the province, and has over 1,000 inliabitants, with several churches 
and other public buildings. It was originally settled by the King's Orange Rangers, 
and has recently become a ftivorite point for summer excursions from St. John. 
The hotel accommodation is inferior. S. of the village is the tall lighthouse on 
Quaco Head, sustaining a revolving white light. The name Quaco is a contractiou 
of the Indian words Gulwaligakgee, meaning " the Home of the Sea-cow." 

The shores about Quaco are bold and picturcj^que, fronting the Bay with lofty 
iron-bound cliffs, among which' are small strips of stony beaches. The strata are 
highly inclined and in some cases are strangely contorted, while their shelves and 
crevices are adorned with pine-trees. Quaco Head is 2 M. from St. Martin's, and 
is 350 ft. high, surrounded 'by cliffs of red sandstone 250 ft. in height. This bold 
promontory i-ises directly from the sea, and is crowned by forests. The harbor of 
Quaco is rather pretty, whence it has been likened to the Bay of Naples. Tracy'' s 
Lake is about 5 M. from Quaco, on the Loch Lomond road, and is noted for au 
abundance of trout. 10-12 M. N. of the village is the Mount Theobald Lake, a 
small round forest-pool in which trout are found in great numbers. 

Hampton station is 1 M. from the village of Hampton Ferry, and beyond 
Bloomfield the train reaches Norton^ whence a road runs 7 M. N. W. to 
Springfield, at the head of Belleisle Bay. Ajjohaqui (Apohaqui Hotel) is 
a village of 300 inhabitants, on the upper Kennebecasis, and at the mouth 
of the Mill-stream Valley. 

The train now reaches Sussex (Exchange Hotel), a pleasant little vil- 
lage of 400 inhabitants, whence the famous farm-lands of the Sussex Vale 
stretch off to the S. E. along the course of Trout Brook. There are sev- 
eral hamlets (with inns) amid the pleasant rural scenery of the Vale, and 
good trout-fishing is found on the smaller streams. 8 M. up is the pros- 
perous settlement of Seeley's Mills, with 650 inhabitants. 

The Sussex Vale was settled by the military corps of the New Jersey Loyalists 
(most of whom were Germans), soon after the Revolutionary War, and it is now 
occupied, for the most part, by their descendants. "Good roads, well-executed 
bridges, cleared land, excellent crops, comfortable houses, high-bred cattle and 
horses, good conveyances public and private, commodious churches, well-taught 
schools, well-provided inns, and an intelligent, industrious people, all in the midst 
of scenery lofty, soft, rounded, beautifully varied with hill and valley, mountain 
and meadow, forest and flood, have taken the place of the pathless wilderness, the 
endless trees, the untaught Indian, and the savage moose." (Prof. Johnston.) 

Beyond Plumweseep occasional glimp.ses of the long low ridge of Picca- 
dilly Mt. are obtained on the r., and Mt. Pisgah is just N. of Penohsquis 
station (small inn), which is the seat of the New Brunswick Paper Manu- 
facturing Co. and of several salt-works. Tri-weekly stages run hence 32 
M. S. E. to the maritime village of Alma, on the Bay of Fundy, 5 M. 
N. W. of the shipping-port of Foint Wolf (Stevens's Hotel). 



72 Route 16. MONCTON. 

Petitcodiac {Mansard House; Central Hotel) is 15 M. beyond Penob-" 
squis, and is a busy village of 400 inliabitants, many of whom are con- 
nected with the lumber-trade. 5 M. S. E. is the Pollett River village, near 
which there is good trouting. In this vicinity are the Pollett Falls, where 
the river, after flowing through a narrow defile between lofty and rugged 
hills, falls over a line of sandstone ledges, and then whirls away down a 
dark gorge below. The caverns, crags, and eroded fronts of the sand- 
stone cliffs form picturesque bits of scenery. 

15-18 M. N. of Petitcodiac are the famous fishing-grounds of the 

Canaan River. The railway now descends the valley of the Petitcodiac 

Eiver, which was settled after the Eevolutionary War by Germans from 

Pennsylvania who remained loyal to Great Britain. Salisbury (two imis) 

is a pleasant village of 300 inhabitants. 

Leaving Salisbury, the Albert Railway runs 45 M. S. E. through the vil- 
lages of Hillsboro, Albert Mines, and Kiverside, to Albert, the terminus of the 
line. Hillsboro, a busy village of 700 inhabitants, has 2 hotels, and is a port from 
which schooners and ships transport the plaster manufactured here in large quan- 
tities. Albert Alines, once the most valuable coal-mines linown, have lately closed, 
the supply being exhausted. The village of Biverside may be said to be a part of 
the village of Albert, the latter being the larger. Albert is the busiest and most 
picturesque part of the county. It has 3 hotels, a weekly paper {The Maple Leaf), 
15 general stores, carriage and furniture manufactories, etc. At this point all the 
principal highways centre, and it receives the greater part of the county's trade. 
From the Albert terminus, a railway runs S. 3-4 M. to Harvey Comer and Har- 
vey Bank, where shipbuilding is extensively carried on. Rocher and Cape Enrag^ 
lie to the S. W., on the shore of the Bay of Fundy. The Cape is supplied with a 
fixed light and steam fog-whistle. Continuing on E. from Harvey Bank you come 
to Mary's Point, the famous freestone quarries of the Provinces and a beautiful 
summer resort. Another railway runs 18 M. S. TV. from Albert to Alma, a beau- 
tiful village on the bay shore. Between Albert and Hillsboro is a village of some 
importance, Hopetvell Cape, where are situated the court-house, jail, and regis- 
try oflBces. Shepody JSkmntain is the highest in the county (1,050 ft.), and gives 
a magnificent view of Albert and "Westmoreland Counties. The whole region is 
rich in mines and quarries, and supplies the tourist with very good scenery, fish- 
ing, and game. A branch railway runs from Petitcodiac to £lgiu. 

Beyond Salisbury station the Halifax train runs 13 M. N. E. to Moncton 
{King's Hotel), the headquarters of the Intercolonial Eailway and the site 
of its extensive machine-shops. It is well laid out, and has 10 churches, 
2 daily papers, and large manufacturing works. Its situation at the head 
of navigation on the Petitcodiac gives certain commercial advantages, and 
affords opportunity for the visitor to see the great "Bore," or tide-wave, 
of the Bay of Fundy. At the beginning of the flood-tide a wall of water 
4-6 ft. high, sweeps up the river, and within 6 hours the stream rises 70 ft. 

The new division of the Intercolonial Railway runs N. from Moncton, and is 
completed to meet the Canadian railway system at Riviere du Loup. It passes 
through or near the chief towns of the North Shore, and follows the Bay of Cha- 
leur for many miles. See page 59 a. 

Moncton stands next to St. John in importance, and has 6,000 inhabitants, a 
sugar-refinery, flour-mills, cotton, lock, and knitting factories, etc. 

The Halifax train runs out to the N. E. from Moncton, and after passing 
Painsec Junction (see page 59) deflects to the S. E. into the Memramcook 



SACKVILLE. Route 16. 73 

Valley.. It soon reaches the connected villages of Memramcook and St, 
Joseph (three inns), occupying the centre of a prosperous farming district 
which is inhabited by over 1,000 Acadians, — a pious and sinaple-hearted 
Catholic peasantry, — a large portion of whom belong to the prolific fami- 
lies of Leblane, Cormier, Gaudet, and Bouque. On the opposite shore is 
the College of St. Joseph de Memramcook, where about 100 students 
(mostly from Canada and the United States) are conducted through a 
high-school curriculum by 12 friars and ecclesiastics. Near the college 
is the handsome stone Church of St. Joseph de Memramcook. 

The Valley of the Memramcook, down Avhich the train descends to Dor- 
chester, possesses one of the most charming landscapes in the country. 
Two high parallel ridges, wooded and well settled, are seen on either 
hand, while the valley itself, like the Tantramar Marshes, is a dead level, 
miles in length, being made up from the sea by tidal deposits, and in June 
it is an ocean of bright green. Dorchester {Dorchester Hotel) is a pros- 
perous village of 800 inhabitants, situated near the mouth of the river 
and among the finest wheat -lands in New Brunswick. Dorchester has 4 
churches, the public buildings of Westmoreland County, and numerous 
pleasant residences. On the opposite side of the Memramcook, at Rock- 
land, are quarries of freestone, several thousand tons of which are shipped 
annually to Boston and New York. Shipbuilding and shipowning is the 
leading business. The traveller by train is surprised to see vessels of 
1,000 tons, being built in the woods, two miles fi-om apparent water. 
They are launched at high-tides into a creek at hand. A large and im- 
posing freestone building on the heights above the town is the Maritime 
Penitentiar}'. 

A ferry crosses Shepody Bay to Hopewell Cape (see page 72) ; and 6-8 M. W. of 
Dorchester is Belliveau village, nine tenths of whose inhabitants belong to the fami- 
lies of Belliveau, Gautreault, and Melancon. This settlement was named in honor 
of the venerable M. Belliveau, whose long life extended from 1730 to 1840. In 1776 
many of the Acadians of this vicinity joined the New England forces under Col. 
Eddy, who occupied Sackville and attacked Fort Cumberland (see page 78). 

The train now runs E. 12 M. from Dorchester to Sackville ( Brunsidck 
House), a rising and prosperous village of about 1,500 inhabitants, situated 
on a red sandstone slope at the mouth of the Tantramar i River, near the 
head of the Bay of Fundy. It has ship-yards, a stove foundry, a news- 
paper, and 8 churches. Sackville is the seat of the Mount Allison Wes- 
leyan College, an institution Avhich was founded by Mr. C. F. AlUson, and 
is conducted by the Wesleyan Conference of Eastern British America. It 
includes a small college, a theological hall, and academies for boys and 
girls. A road leads from Sackville S. E. down the rugged headland be- 
tween Cumberland Basin and Shepody Bay, passing the marine hamlets 
of Woodpoint (5 M.), Rockport (12 M.), and N. Joggins, 14 M. from Sack- 
ville, and near the highlands of Cape Marangouin. 

1 Tantramar, from the French word Tintamarre, meaaing " a thundermg noiae." 

4 



74 Route 16. TANTRAMAR MARSH. 

Sackville is the point established for the outlet of the projected Bale Verte 
Canal, a useful work 18 M. long, which would allow vessels to pass from the Bay 
of i'undy to the Gulf of St. Lawrence without having to round the iron-bound pe- 
ninsula of Nova Scotia. This canal has been planned and desired for over a cen- 
tury, but nothing has yet been done, except the surveying of the isthmus. Tri- 
weekly stages run N. E. along the telegraph-road from Sackville to .Tolicoeur (10 M. ), 
Baic Verte Road (14 M.), Baic Verte (18 JI., small inn), and Port Elgin (20 M. ; inn). 
About 16 M. N. E. of Port Elgin is Cape Tormentine, " the great headland 
which forms the E. extremity of New Brunswick within the Gulf Indian Point 
may be said to form the southern, and Cape .Tourimain the northern points of this 
headland, which is a place of importance in a nautical point of view, not only from 
its position, but from its dangerous and extensive shoals." The submarine tele- 
graph to Prince Edward Island crosses from Cape .Tourimain ; and it is from this 
point that the winter mail-service is conducted, when the mails, passengers, and 
baggage are subjected to an exciting and perilous transit in ice-boats to Cape Trav- 
erse. Bale V(!rte is 9 M. wide and 11 M. deep, but affords no good shelter. It re- 
ceives the Tignish and Gaspereau lUvers, and at the mouth of the latter are the 
ancient ruins of Fort Moncton. 

About 200 students attend the Mount-Allison Educational Institution. 
Sackville possesses 40 square miles of marsh lands, that produce enormous 
crops of grasses. Large shipments of hay and cattle are made from here; 
the latter to the English markets. A railway is now being constructed 
to Cape Tormentine (38 M. E.), by a local company, and will be open for 
traffic in 1884. It is intended to connect with the P. E. Island Railway 
system, and to open up a splendid agricultural country. The bogs and 
lakes at the head of the marshes are haunts of snipe and duck, and are a 
favorite resort of sportsmen. 

At Sackville the Halifax train crosses the Tantramar Eiver, and runs 
out over the wide Tantramar Marsh to Aulac, or Cole's Island (stage to 
Cape Tormentine), near Avhich it crosses the Aulac River. Trains are 
sometimes blocked in on these plains during the snow-stoi-ms of winter, 
and the passengers are subjected to great hardships. The Missiguash 
River is next crossed, with the ruins of Fort Beausejour (Cumberland) on 
the N., and of Fort Beaubassin (Lawrence) on the S. The.se forts are best 
visited from Amherst, which is 4-5 M. distant, and is reached after ti-av- 
ersing the Missiguash Marsh. The Missiguash River is the boundary 
between New Brunswick and Nova Scotia, and Amherst is the first town 
reached in the latter Province. 

Fort Lawrence is the W. terminus of the proposed Chignecto Marine 
Railway, whereby it is intended to carry ships of 1,000 tons with their 
cargoes between the Straits of Northumberland and the Bay of Fundy, 
a distance of 17 M. The Canadian Government has subsidized the pro- 
ject with $150,000 per annum for 25 years, and an English Company 
began work in 1883. This scheme is a substitute for the Bale Verte 
Canal, which was abandoned in 1875. 

Amherst to Halifax, see Route 17. 



Is^OVA SCOTIA. 



The Province of Nova Scotia is peninsular in location, and is connected 
with the mainland by an isthmus 8 M. wide. It is bounded on the N. by 
the Bay of Fundy, the Strait of Northumberland, and the Gulf of St. Law- 
rence; on the E. and S. by the Atlantic Ocean; and on the W. by the 
ocean, the Bay of Fundy, and the Province of New Brunswick. Its length, 
from Cape.Canso to Cape St. Mary, is 383 M., and its breadth varies from 
50 M. to 104 M. The area of the peninsula is 10,000 square miles. The 
population is 440,572, of whom 117,487 are Roman -Catholics, 112,000 Pres- 
byterians, 83,500 Baptists, G<),255 Church of England people, 51,000 Metho- 
dists, and G8 Unitarians. 405,000 are natives of Nova Scotia, and 21,000 
from the British Islands. 

" Acadle is much warmer in summer and much colder in winter than 
the countries in Europe lying under the same parallels of latitude" 
(Southern France, Sardinia, Lombardy, Genoa, Venice, Northern Tur- 
key, the Crimea, and Circassia). "The spring season is colder and the 
autumn more agreeable than those on the opposite side of the Atlantic. 
Its climate is favorable to agriculture, its soil generally fertile. The land 
is well watered by rivers, brooks, and lakes. The supply of timber for 
use and for exportation may be considered as inexhaustible. The fish- 
eries on the coasts are abundant. The harbors are numerous and excel- 
lent. Wild animals are abundant, among which are remarkable the moose, 
caribou, and red deer. Wild fowl also are plenty. Extensive tracts of 
alluvial land of great value are found on the Bay of Fundy. These lands 
have a natural richness that dispenses with all manuring; all that is 
wanted to keep them in order is spade-work. As to cereals, — wheat, 
rye, oats, buckwheat, maize, all prosper. The potato, the hop, flax, and 
hemp are everywhere prolific. The vegetables of the kitchen garden are 
successfully raised. Of fruit there ai-e many wild kinds, and the apple, 
pear, plum, and cherry seem almost indigenous. The vine thrives ; good 
grapes are often raised in the open air. It was said by a French writer 
that Acadie produced readily everything that grew in Old France, except 
the olive. 

"In the peninsula, or Acadie proper, there is an abundance of mineral 
wealth. Coal is found in Cumberland and Pictou; iron ore, in Colchester 
and Annapolis Counties ; gypsum, in Hants ; marble and limestone, in dif- 
ferent localities; freestone, for building, at Remsheg (Port Wallace) and 



76 NOVA SCOTIA. 

Pictou; granite, near Halifax, Shclburne, etc.; brick clay, in the counties 
of Halifax and Annapolis. The amethysts of Parrsborough and its vicin- 
ity have been long celebrated, and pearls have been found lately in the 
Annapolis liiver. The discovery of gold along the whole Atlantic shore of 
the peninsula of Nova iScotia has tiiken place since 18G0, and it now gives 
steady remunerative employment to about 800 or 1,000 laborers, with 
every expectation of its expansion." (Beamish Murdoch.) The pro- 
duction of gold from the Nova-Scotia mines amounts to $400,000 a year. 

In 1881, Nova Scotia iiad 440,572 inhabitants, of whom 140,027 are of 
Scotcii origin, 128,!J8G English, G(),0G7 Irish, 41, 210 French. Of these, 
117,487 are Roman Catholics, 112,488 rresbyterians, 83,7G1 Baptists, 
60,255 of the Church of England, and 50,811 Molliodists. 

The territory now occupied by the Maritime Provinces was known for 
nearly two centuries by the name of Acadie,^ and was the scene of fre- 
quent wars between Britain and France. Its first discoverers were the 
Northmen, about the year 1000 A. d., and Sebastian Cabot rediscovered 
it in 1408, In 1518 and 1598 futile attempts were made by French nobles 
to f(jUMd colonies here, and French fishermen, fur-traders, and explorers 
frequented these shores for over a century. In 1005 a settlement was 
founded at Port Royal, after the discoveries of De Monts and Champlain, 
but it was bi'oken up in 1C18 by the Virginians, who claimed that Acadie 
belonged to Britain by virtue of Cabot's discover}^ In 1G21 James I. 
of England granted to Sir William Alexander the domain called NovA 
Scotia, including all the lands E. of a line drawn from Passamoquoddy 
Bay N. to the St. Lawrence; but this claim was renounced in 1G32, and 
the rival French nobles. La Tour and D'Aulnay, commenced their fratri- 
cidal wars, each striving to be sole lord of Acadie. In 1G54 the Province 
was captured by a force sent out by Cromwell, but the French interest 
soon regained its former position. 

The order of the Baronets of Nova Scotia was founded by King Charles 
I., in 1(J25, and consisted of 150 well-born gentlemen of Scotland, who re- 
ceived, with their titles and insignia, grants of 18 square miles each, in the 
wide domains of Acadia. These manors were to be settled by the baronets 
at their own expense, and were expected in time to yield handsome 
revenues. But little was ever accomplished by this order. Meantime 
Cardinal Riciielieu founded and became grand master of a more powerful 
French association called the Com[)any of New France (1627). It con- 

1-Arnrlia is tlifi Anglicized (or Jyutiiiizcd) fomi of Acn(Uo., an Indian word sipnifying 
" tlie pliicf," or " tlic r('f,'ioii." It is a part of tin; (:oini)Oiin<i words Seg4el>cn-uc(i<lir (S\\ii- 
bciiiiciidii;, iiiciuiiiig " place of wild potatoes "; TnUiik-radic (TrucudicJ, nieaniiig " dwelliiif;- 
pliice " ; Siiii-(icii(lic,ov " ])l!ice of crnnl)eirieH "; Kit/ioo-cti-adic, or " place of cnglcs," und 
otIii'iH of Himilar form. 'J'lie Milieete tribes proiiouiieed this word " Quoddy, ' whence 
I'attuiiioo-iiiuxUIji (riissatiKKiuodd V), nieaniii^ "place' of pollocks'; Auodi-i/iioildi/, or 
" place of seals," etc. When ii liritfsji olHcer was descending the Shnhenacndie with ii Mic- 
iniK^ /.^ni(h', he iruiuired how the narru! originated ; tlie Indian answered, " lieeaiiBC plenty 
wild potatoes — .Yf/fy^Dt — once grew liere." " Well, 'acadie,' Paul, what does that mean ?" 
" Meuiis — where you Hiid em," rejoined thfi Micmac, 



NOVA SCOTIA. 77 

sisted of 100 members, who received Acadia, Quebec, Florida, and New- 
foundland " in simple homage," and had power to erect duchies, marquis- 
ates, and seigniories, subject to the royal approval. They allowed French 
Catholics only to settle on these lands, and were protected by national 
frigates. This order continued for 40 years, and vv^as insti'umental in 
founding numerous villages along the Nova-Scotian coast. 

In 1690 the New-Englahders overran the Province and seized the for- 
tresses, but it was restored to France in 1697. In 1703 and 1707 unsuc- 
cessful expeditions were sent from Massachusetts against the Acadian 
strongholds, but they were finally captured in 1710 ; and in 1713 Nova 
Scotia was ceded to Great Britain by the Treaty of Utrecht. The Prov- 
ince was kept in a condition of disorder for the next 40 yeai-s, by the dis- 
affection of its French population and the lawlessness of the Indians, and 
the British fortresses were often menaced and attacked. After the founda- 
tion of Halifax, in 1749, a slow tide of immigi"ation set in and strengthened 
the government. In 1755 the French people in the Province (7,000 in num- 
ber) were suddenly seized and transported to the remote American colo- 
nies, and the French forts on the Baie-Verte frontier were captured. 

In 1758 the first House of Assembly met at Halifax, and in 1763 the 
French power in America was finally and totally crushed. At the close 
of the Revolution, 20,000 self-exiled Americans settled in Nova Scotia; 
and in 1784 New Brunswick and Cape Breton were withdrawn and made 
into separate provinces (Cape Breton was reunited to Nova Scotia in 1820). 
Daring the Revolution and the War of 1812 Halifax was the chief station 
of the British navy, and the shores of the Province were continually 
harassed by American privateers. 

In 1864 a convention was held at CharlottetoAvn, P. E. I., to consider 
measures for forming a federal union of the Maritime Provinces. During 
the session Canadian delegates were admitted, on the request of the St. 
Lawrence Provinces; and a subsequent congress of all the Provinces was 
held at Quebec, at which the plan of the Dominion of Canada was elabo- 
rated. It is now thought that this quasi-national government does not fulfil 
all the original wishes of the seaboard regions, and that it may be well to 
unite (or reunite) the Maritime Provinces into one powerful province 
called Acadia, by which the expense of three local legislatures and cabi- 
nets could be saved, their homogeneous commercial interests could be 
favored by uniform laws, and the populous and wealthy Provinces of Que- 
bec and Ontario could be balanced in the Dominion Parliament. 



• " There are perhaps no Provinces in the Avorld possessing finer harbors, 
or furnishing In greater abundance all the conveniences of life. The climate 
is quite mild and very healthy, and no lands have been found that are not 

of surpassing fertility Finally, nowhere are there to be seen forests 

more beautiful or with wood better fitted for buildings and masts. There 



78 Route 17. AMHERST. 

are in some places copper mines, and in others of coal The fish mqst 

commonly caught on the coast are the cod, salmon, mackerel, herring, 
sardine, shad, tront, gotte, gaparot, barbel, sturgeon, goberge, — all fish 
that can be salted and exported. Seals, walruses, and whales are found 

in great numbers The rivers, too, are full of fresh-water fish, and the 

banks teem with countless game." (Father Charlevoix, 1765.) 

"Herewith I enter the lists as the champion of Nova Scotia Were 

I to give a first-class certificate of its general character, I would aflirm that 
it yields a greater variet}^ of products for export than any territory on the 
globe of the same superficial area. This is saying a great deal. Xet us 
see : she has ice, lumber, ships, salt-fish, salmon and lobsters, coal, iron, 
gold, copper, plaster, slate, grindstones, fat cattle, wool, potatoes, apples, 
large game, and furs," (Charles Hallock, 1873.) 



17. St. John to Amherst and Halifax. 

St. John to Amherst, see preceding route. 

Amherst [Acadia Hotel; Amherst Hotel) is a flourishing town midway 
between St. John and Halifax (138 M. from each). It is the capital of 
Cumberland County, Nova Scotia, and is pleasantly situated at the head 
of the Cumberland Basin, one of the great arms of the Bay of Fundy. It 
has 4,500 inhabitants, and is engaged in the lumber trade; while the im- 
mense area of fertile meadows about the town furnishes profitable employ- 
ment for a large rural population. Bi-weekly stages run N. E. up the 
valley of the La Planche to Tidnish (two inns), a village of 300 inhabitants 
on Bale Verte. Tri-weekly stages run N. E. to Shinlmicas and the large 
farming district called the Head of Amherst, which has over 2,000 in- 
habitants. 

The present dnmain of Nova Scotia was ceded to Great Britain by the Treat}' of 
Utrecht, in 1713, but its boundaries -svere not defined, and the French determined to 
limit it on the N. to the Misf^iguash River. To this end Gov. La Jonquiere Pent M. 
La Corne, -with 600 soldiers, to erect forts on the line of the Missiguash. The -war- 
rior-priest, the Abb6 Laloutre (Yicar-General of Acadie), led many Acadians to this 
vicinity, where the flourishing settlement of Beaubassin was founded. At the same 
time La Corne established a chain of military posts from the Bay of Fundy to Bale 
"Verte, the chief fort being located on the present site of Fort Cumberland, and bear- 
ing the name of Beausejour. The governor of Nova Scotia sent out a British force 
under Major Lawrence, who captured and destroyed Beaubassin, and erected Fort 
Lawrence near its site. The Acadians were industriously laboring in the peaceful 
pursuits of agriculture about Beausejour ; and the King of France had granted 
80,000 livres for the great nhoideau across the Aulac River. The British complained, 
however, that the priests were endeavoring to array the Acadians against them, 
and to entice them away from the Nova-Scotian shores. It was resolved that the 
French forces should be driven from their position, and a powerful expedition was 
fitted out at Boston. Three frigates and a number of transports conveying the New- 
England levies sailed up the Bay of Fundy in May, 1755, and debarked a strong 



FORT CUMBERLAND. Route 17. 79 

land force at Fort Lawrence. Meantime 1,200-1,500 Acadians had been gathered 
about Beausejour, by the influence of the Abbe Laloutre, and a sharp skirmish was 
fought on L'Isle cle la Valliere. On the 4th of June tlie Angio-American forces left 
their camps on the glacis of Fort Lawrence, routed the Acadians at the fords of the 
Missiguash, and advanced by parallels and siegc-liues against the hostile works. 
When the I3ritish batteries reached Butte-a-Oharles the fort was vigorously shelled, 
and with such disastrous effect that it capitulated on June 16th, tiie garrison march- 
ing out with arms, baggage, and banners. The French troops wore paroled and 
sent to Louisbourg, and the Acadians were suffered to remain. Laloutre, escaping 
to Quebec, there received an ecclesiastical censure, and was afterwards remanded to 
France. 

In November, 1776, Col. Eddy led a force of Massachusetts troops, men of Mau- 
gerville, Acadians, and Indians, against Fort Cumberland. He first cut out a store- 
vessel from under the guns of the fort, and captured several detachments of the gar- 
rison (the Royal Fenciblcs). The commandant refused to surrender, and repulsed 
the Americans in a night-attack, by means of a furious cannonade. Eddy then 
blockaded the fort tor several days, but was finally driven off by the arrival of a 
man-of-war from Halifix, bringing a reinforcement of 400 men. The Massachusetts 
camp was broken up by a sortie, and all its stores were destroyed. The Americans 
fled to the forest, and fell back on the St. John River. A large proportion of the 
men of Cumberland County went to Maine after this campaign, despairing of the 
success of Republicanism in the Maritime Provinces. Among them were a consid- 
erable number of Acadians. 

The ruins of Fort Cumberland are a few miles N. W. of Amherst, beyond the 
Aulac River, and on a high bluff at the S. end of the Point do Bute range of hills. 
It was kept in repair by the Imperial Government for many years after its capture, 
and still presents an appearance of strength and solidity, though it has been long 
deserted. The remains of the besiegers' parallels are also vii^iblc near the works. 
On a bold bluff within cannon-shot, on the farther bank of the Missiguash River, 
are the scanty remains of the British Fort Lawrence. Numerous relics of the old 
Acadians may still be traced in this vicinity. 5 M. above the fort, on the Bale V^erte 
road, is Bloody Bridge, where a British foraging party under Col. Dixon was sur- 
prised and massacred by the Indians (uud(>r French officers). 

The * view from the bastions of Fort Cumberland is famous for its extent and 
beauty. It includes Sackville and its colleges on the N. W., Amherst and the 
Nova-Scotian shores on the S^ E., and the bluff and hamlet of Fort Lawrence. The 
wide and blooming expinse of the Tantramar and Missiguash Marshes is over- 
looked, — the view including over 50,000 acres of rich marine intervale, — and on 
the S. the eye travels for many leagues down the blue sheet of the Bay of Fundy 
(Cumberland Basin). 

The great Tantramar Marsh is S. of Sackville, and is 9 M. long by 4 M. wide, 
being also traversed by the Tantramar and Aulac Rivers. It is composed of hue 
silicious matter deposited as marine alluvium, and is called "red marsh," in dis- 
tinction from the " blue marsh " of the uplands. The low shores around the head 
of the Bay of Fundy for a distance of 20 M. have been reclaimed by the erection of 
dikes, with aboideaux at the mouths of the rivers to exclude the flow of the tides. 
The land thus gained is very rich, and produces fine crops of English hay, avcr.vg- 
ing from 1)^ to 2 tons to the acre. The land seems inexhaustible, having been cul- 
tivated now for nearly a century without rotation or fertilization. 

The Chignecto Peninsula. 

Minudie is 8 M. S. W. of Amherst, with which it is connected by a ferry across 
the estuaries of the Maccan and Hebert Rivers. It has 600 inhabitants, and is near 
the rich meadows called the Elysian Fields. In the vicinity are profitable quarries 
of grindstones, and there are shad-fisheries to the S. ^V^ 6-8 M. S. are the JoggJus 
Mines, pertaining to the General Mining Association of London ; and the Victoria 
Mines, on the river Hebert. Coal has been obtained thence for 25 years. This dis- 
trict is reached by stages from Maccan station. About the year 1730 the coal-mines 
at Chignecto were leased to a Boston company, whicli was to pay a quit-rent of one 
penny an acre (on 4,000 acres), and a royalty of 18 pence per chaldron on the 'coal 
raised. But this entei-prise was broken up in 1782, when the warehouses and ma- 
chinery were destroyed by the Indians (probably incited by the French at Louis- 
bourg). 



80 Route 17. COBEQUID MTS. 

The JogiErins Shore extends to the S.W. along the Chignecto Channel, and is 
remarkable for its geological peculiarities, which have been visited and studied ty 
European savans. The local explanation of the name is that the cliffs here "jog in '' 
and out in an unexampled manner. The height of the cliffs is from 130 to 400 ft. ; and 
the width of the Chignecto Basin is from 5 to 8 M. 35-40 M. from Amherst is Aj)rle 
River ^ a sequestered hamlet on the estuary of the Apple River, amidst fine marine 
scenery. Apple Head is just W. of this place, and is 413 ft. high, overlooking the 
Chignecto Channel and the New-Brunswick shores. There is a fixed white light on 
its outer point. To the E , Apple River traverses the Caribou Plains, and on its 
upper waters affords the best of trout-fishing, with an abundance of salmon between 
February and July. 15-20 M. S. W. of Apple River, by a road which crosses the 
Cobequid Mts. E. of Cape Chignecto, is Advocate Harbor (see Route 21). 

' ' The road from Amherst to Parrsboro- is tedious and uninteresting. In places 
it is made so straight that j'ou can see several miles of it before you, which produces 
an appearance of interminable length, while the stunted growth of the spruce and 
birch trees bespeaks a cold, thin soil, and invests the scene with a melancholy and 
flterile aspect." (Judge IIaliburton.) This road is 36 M. long, ascending the val- 
ley of the Maccan River, and passing the hamlet of Cannan, near the Cobequid Mts. 

The Halifax train runs S. from Amherst to Maccan (stages to Minudic 
andJoggins), in the great coal-field of Cumberland Comity. Daily stages run 
from Athol station to Parrsboro'. From Athol the line passes to Spring Hill, 
a coal-mining district, whence a railway has been constructed to Parrs- 
boro' (see Route 21). 11 M. beyond is the station at liive^^ Philip (small 
hotel), a pleasant stream in which good fishing is found. The salmon are 
especially abundant during the springtime. Oxford station (two inns) has 
two small woollen factories, and is 14 M. S. W. of Pugwash, on the 
Northumberland Strait. A railroad runs hence to the North Shore. 

The train now passes through extensive forests, in which many sugar- 
maples are seen, and begins the ascent of the Cobequid Mts., Avith the 
Wallace Valley below on the 1. The Cobequid range runs almost due E. 
and W. from Truro, and is 100 M. long, with an average breadth of 10-12 
M. It consists of a succession of rounded hills, 800- 1,000 feet high, cov- 
ered with tall and luxuriant forests of beech and sugar-maple. From 
Thomson, Greenville, and Wentworth stations stages run to Wallace and 
Pugwash (see page 81), also to Westchester. The railway traverses the 
hill-country by the Folhj Pass, and has its heaviest grades between Folly 
Lake and Londonderry; where are also 2-3 M. of snow-sheds, to protect 
the deep cuttings from the drifting in of snow fi-om the hills. Fine views 
of the Wallace Valley are afforded from the open levels of the line. From 
Londonderry a railway runs to Acadia Mines, a town of 3,000 inhabitants, 
with 4 chui-ches. Here are the blast-furnaces and rolling-mill of the Can- 
ada Steel Co. The ores are magnetic, specular, and hematite, and occur in 
a wedge-shaped vein 7 M. long and 120 ft. thick. The iron is of fine 
quality, but is difficult to Avork. 

The train descends from the Pass along the line of the Folly River, which 
it crosses on a bridge 200 feet above the water. Beyond the farming set- 
tlement of Debert (stages to Economy and Five Islands) the descent is con- 
tinued, and occasional views of the Cobequid Bay are given as the train 
passes across Onslow to Truro. The landscape now becomes more pleas- 
ing and thickly settled. "* 



TRURO. Route 17. 81 

Truro (Parher House ; Prince of Wales Hotel ; Victoria) is a wealthy 
and prosperous town of over 4,000 inhabitants, and occupies a pleasant 
situation 2 M. from the head of Cobequid Bay (an arm of the Basin of 
Minas). The level site of the town is nearly surrounded b^' an amphi- 
theatre of gracefully rounded hills, and on the W. are the old diked 
meadows of the Acadian era. Truro is the capital of Colchester County 
and the seat of the Provincial Normal School. Fishing and shipbuildino- 
are carried on here, and there are large and growing manufactures, in- 
cluding boots and shoes, woollens, and iron-wares. The neighboring 
county has valuable farming-lands, and contains several iron-mines. 

Truro was settled at an early date by the Acadian French, and after their expul- 
sion from Nova Scotia was occupied by Scotch-Irish from New Hampshire la 
1761 a large number of disbanded Irish troops settled here, and engaged in the 
peaceful pursuits of agriculture. 




Stages also run S. W. to Old liarns, on the S. shore of Cobequid Bay, and S E 15 
M.^to Middle Stewiacke, on tlie Stewiacke River. 

f departure for the Pictou Branch of tl 

The North Shore of Nova Scotia. 



Truro is the point of departure for the Pictou Branch of the Intercolonial Rail- 
■way (see Route 31). 




In passing from Ti'uro to Tatamagouche the road crosses the Cobequid 
Mts. and descends through a thinly settled region to the N. Tatamagouche 
(two inns) is situated at the head of a large harbor which opens on the 
Northumberland Strait, and has about 1,500 inhabitants. Some ship- 
building is done here, and there are freestone quarries in the vicinity. 
6 M. to the E. is the large village of Brule Harbor, and 6 M. farther E., 
also on the Tatamagouche Bay, and at the mouth of the River John, is 
the shipbuilding settlement of Etver John, which Avas founded by Swiss 
Protestants in 1763. It is 20 M. from this point to Pictou, and the inter- 
vening coast is occupied by colonists from the Hebrides. 

Blair's stage runs W. from Tatamagouche to Wallace (two inns), a town 
of 2,600 inhabitants, situated on the deep waters of Wallace Harbor (for- 
merly called Remsheg). Plaster, lime, and freestone are found here in 
large quantities, and the latter is being quarried by several companies. 
The Provincial Building at Plalifax was made of Wallace stone. To the 
N. E., beyond the lighthouse on Mullin Point, is the marine hamlet of Fox 
Harbor, whose original settlers came from the Hebrides. Pugioash (small 
inn) is 10 M. beyond Wallace, and is a flourishing port with about 3,300 
4* p 



82 Route 17. GOLD MINES. 

inhabitants. The harbor, though difficult of access, is deep and well shel,- 
tered, and has several ship-yards on its shores. The chief exports of Pug- 
wash are deals and lumber, freestone, lime, and plaster. 



The Halifax train runs S. from Truro to Broohfield, whence hay and 
lumber are exported, and then to Stewiache, which is 3 M. from the pretty 
farming village of the same name, on the Stewiacke River. The next sta- 
tion is Shubenacadie (International Hotel), a busy little manufacturing 
village on the river of the same name. 

Daily stages descend the valley of the Shubenacadie for 18 M. to the N. to the 
town of Wlaitland (two inns), at the mouth of the river (see Route 22). Stages also 
run S- E. (Tuesday and Thursday) to Gay's River (7 M.), Gay's River Road (14 ?I ), 
Middle Musquodoboit (21 M.), Upper Musquodoboit (25 M.)) Melrose, Guysborough, 
and Port Mulgrave, on the Strait of Canso. Gold was discovered near Gay's River 
in 1862, in the cenglomerate rock of the great ridge called the Boar's Back, which 
extends for 60 M. through the inland towns. It nearly resembles the ailuvial de- 
posits found in the placer-diggings of Cahfornia, and the stream-washings have 
yielded as high as an ounce per man daily. Scientific mining was begun in 18G3, 
but has given only light returns. Middle Musquodoboit is a farming-town with 
about 1,000 inhabitants, situated on the S. of the Boar's Back ridge, 42 M. from 
Halifax. Upper Musquodoboit is about the same size, and beyond that point the 
stages traverse a dreary and thinly settled district for several leagues, to Melrose. 

The Halifax train runs S. W. to Elmsdale, a village near the Shuben- 
acadie River, engaged in making leather and carriages. Enfield is the 
seat of a large pottery. 7 M. N. W. are the Renfrew Gold-Mines, where 
gold-bearing quartz was discovered in 1861. Much money and labor were 
at first wasted by inexperienced miners, but of late years the lodes have 
been worked systematically, and are considered among the most valuable 
in Nova Scotia. The average yield is 16 pennyweights of gold to a ton of 
quartz, and in 1869 these mines yielded 3,097 ounces of the precious metal, 
valued at $ 61,490. The Oldham Mines are 3J M. S. of Enfield, and are 
in a deep narrow valley, along whose bottom shafts have been sunk to 
reach the auriferous quartz. Between 1861 and 1869, 9,254 ounces of gold 
were sent from the Oldham diggings, and it is thought that yet richer 
lodes may be found at a greater depth. 

Soon after leaving Enfield the train passes along the S. E. shore of Grand 
Lake, which is 8 M. long by 1-2 M. wide. It crosses the outlet stream, 
runs around Long Lake, and intersects the Windsor Branch Railway at 
Windsor Junction. . Station, Rocky LaJce^ on the lake of the same name, 
where large quantities of ice are cut by the Nova-Scotia Ice Company, for 
exportation to the United States. 3 M. N. E. of this station are the Waver- 
ley Gold-Mines, where the gold is found in barrel -quartz, so named because 
it appears in cylindrical masses like barrels laid side by side, or like a 
corduroy-road. At its first discovery all the floating population of Halifax 
flocked out here, but they failed to better their condition, and the total 
yield between 1861 and 1869 was only about 1,600 ounces. Waverley vil- 
lage is picturesquely situated in a narrow valley between two lakes, and 
has about 600 inhabitants. >" 



ANNAPOLIS KOUTE. Route 18. 83 

After crossing Rocky Lake the train soon reaches the shores of the 
beautiful Bedford Basin, and follows their graceful curves for several 
miles. On the L are fine views of the villas and hiUs beyond the blue 
water. 

Halifax, see page 93. 

18. St. John to Halifax, by the Annapolis Valley. 

This is the pleasantest route, during calm weather, between the chief cities of the 
Maritime Provinces. After a passage of about 4 hours in the steamer, across the Bay 
of Fundy, the pretty scenery of the Annapolis Basin is traversed, and at Annapolis 
the passenger takes the train of the \Yindsor & Annapolis Railway, which runs 
through to Halifax. The line traverses a comparatively rich and picturesque coun- 
try^, abounding in historic and poetic associations of the deepest interest. 

The distance between St. John and Halifax by this route is 86 M. less than by the 
Intercolonial Railway ; but the time on both routes is about the same, on account 
of the delay in crossing the Bay of Fundy. The Aunapolis-Hahfax hne is only prac- 
ticable 4 times a week. The steamer leaves St, John at 8 A. M. , on Monday, Wednes- 
day, Friday, and Saturday, connecting with the express trains which leave Annapolis 
at 2 p.m. and arrive at Hahfax at about 8 p. m. Express trains leave Hahfax at 8.15 a. m 
on Tuesday, Thursday, Friday, and Saturday, connecting with the steamer which 
leaves Annapolis at 2.35 P. m. and arrives at St. John at 8 P. M. 

Fares. — ^t. John to Halifax, 1st class, $5; 2d class, §3.50; to Digby, $150; 
•n ?,^P^^^^ *2. Passengers for Halifox dine on the steamer and take tea at Kent- 
ville (,10 minutes) ; those for St. John dine at Kentville (18 minutes) and take tea 
on the boat. There are two through trains each way daily between Halifax and 
Annapolis. Special rates are made for excursions (limited tune) by the agents of 
this route, Small & Hathaway, 39 Dock St., St John. 

Distances. — St John to Digby, 43 M.; Annapolis, 61 ; Round Hill, 68 : Bridge- 
town /o; Paradise 80; Lawrencetown, 83; Middleton, 89; Wilmot, 92 ; Kingston, 
96 ; Morden Road 101 ; Aylesford, 103 ; Berwick, 108 ; W^aterville, 111 ; Cambridge 
113; Coldbrook, 115; Kentville, 120; Port Williams, 125; Wolfville, 127 ; Grand 
lin' T?i' M ""^.o^^.'li^",' 131; Avonport, 133; Hantsport, 138; Mount Denson, 
140; Falmouth, 143; V\indsor, 14o ; Three-Mi le Plains, 148 ; Newport, 151 ; Ellers- 
houselo4; Stillwater, 15/; Mount Uniacke, 164 ; Beaver Bank, 174 ; Windsor Junc- 
tion, 1/ < ; Rocky Lake, 1/9 ; Bedford, 182 ; Four-Mile House, 186 ; Halifax, 190. 

The steamer Empress leaves her wharf at Eeed's Point, St. John, and 
soon passes the heights and spires of Carleton on the r. and the lighthouse 
on Partridge Island on the 1., beyond which Mispeck Point is seen. Cape 
Spencer is then opened to the E., on the New Brunswick coast, and the 
steamer sweeps out into the open bay. In ordinary summer weather the 
bay is quiet, except for a light tidal swell, and will not affect the traveller. 

Soon after passing Partridge Island, the dark ridge of the North Mt. is 
seen in advance, cleft by the gap called the * Bigby Gut, which, in the 
earlier days, was known as St. George's Channel. The course is laid 
straight for this pass, and the steamer runs in by Prim Point, with its fog- 
whistle and fixed light (visible 13 M.), and enters the tide-swept defile, 
with bold and mountainous bluffs rising on either side. The shores on 
the 1. are 610 feet high, and on the r. 400-560 ft., between which the tide 
rushes with a velocity of 5 knots an hour, making broad and powerful 
swirls and eddies over 12-25 fathoms of water. After running for about 
2 M. through this passage, the steamer enters the Annapolis Basin, and 
runs S. by E. 3 M. to Digby. 



84 Route 18. ANNAPOLIS BASIN. 

"The white houses of Digby, scattered over the downs like a flock of washed 
sheep, had a somewhat chilly aspect, it is true, and made us long for the sun on 
them. But as 1 thiuk of it now, I prefer to have the town and the pretty hillsidea 
that stand about the basin in the light we saw them ; and especially do I like to 
recall the high wooden pier at Digby, deserted by the tide and so blown by the wind 
that the passengers who came out on it, with their tossing drapery, brought to mind 
the windy Dutch harbors that Backhiiysen painted." (W'arnle's Baddedc.) 

Digby {Daley's Hotel) is a maritime village of about 1,800 inhabitants, 
with 6 churches, 2 weekly papers, and 30 shops, situated on the S. W. 
shore of the Annapolis Basin, and engaged in shipbuilding and the fish- 
eries of haddock, mackerel, and herring. The Digby herring are famous for 
tlieir delicacy, and are known in the Provinces as "Digby chickens." 
Porpoises, also, are caught in the swift currents of the Digby Gut. Quite 
recently Digby has become well known as a summer-resort. The fogs 
which hang like a pall over the Bay of Fund}^ are not encountered here-, 
and the lovely scenerj^ hereabouts, and boating, bathing, and fishing afford 
suflicient amusement. The comfortable Myrtle House, near the water, 
amid three acres of fruit-orchards, is crowded all summer by Americans 
and Canadians. There is a steamship line from Boston to Digby direct. 
A French fort stood here in the early days; and in 1783 the township was 
granted to the ex-American Loyalists. Stages run to Annapolis, and a 
railroad to Yarmouth. 

" That portion of Acadia at which the voyagers had now arrived is distinguished 
by the beauty of its scenery. The coast along which they had previously sailed is 
comparatively rugged. But on entering the Ba.sin the scene is changed, many of the 
peculiar elements which lend a charm to the Acadian landscape being found in har- 
monious combination. Towards the east, islands repose on the bosom of the deep, 
their forms being vividly mirrored on its placid surface, and from which canoes may 
be seen darting towards the mainland, with their paddles fitfully flashing in the 
sunlight. In the distance are graceful, undulating hills, thickly clad, from base to 
summit, with birch, maple, hemlock, and spruce woods, constituting an admirable 
background to the whole scene." (Campbell's History of Nova Scotia.) 

The noble * Annapolis Basin gradually decreases from a width of nearly 
b M. to 1 M., and is hemmed in between the converging ridges of the 
North Mt. and the South Mt. The former range has a height of 6 - 700 ft., 
and is bold and mountainous 'in its outlines. The South Mt. is from 300 
to 500 ft. high, and its lines of ascent are more gradual. The North Mt. 
was once insulated, and the tides flowed through the whole valley, until a 
shoal at the confluence of the Blomidon and Digby currents became a bar, 
and this in time became dry land and a water-shed. 

Between the head of Argyle Ba}^ and the slopes of the Annapolis Basin 
are the rarely visited and sequestered hill-ranges called the Blue Moun- 
tains. " The Indians are said to have formerly resorted periodically to 
groves among these wilds, which they considered as consecrated places, 
in order to offer sacrifices to their gods." 

" We were sailing along the gracefully moulded and tree-covered hills of the An- 
napolis Basin, and up the mildly picturesque river of that name, and we were about 
to enter what the provincials all enthj^iastically call the Garden of Nova Scotia. 
.... It i.-^, — this valley of Annapolis, — in the belief of provincials, the most beau- 
tiful and blooming place in the world, with a soil and chmate kind to the husband- 



ANNAPOLIS ROYAL. Route 18. 85 

man, a land of fair meadows, orchards, and vines It was not until we had 

travelled over the rest of the country that we saw the appropriateness of the 
designation. The explanation is, that not so much is required of a garden here as 
in some other parts of the world." 

Soon after leaving Digby, Bear Island is seen in-shore on the r., in front 
of the little port of Bear River (inn), Avhich has a foundry, tanneries, and 
saw-mills. Iron and gold are found in the vicinity, and lumber and cord- 
wood are exported hence to the United States and the West Indies. A few 
miles beyond, and also on the S. shore, is the hamlet of Clementsport (two 
inns), where large iron-works were formerly established, in connection 
with the ore-beds to the S. Roads lead thence to the S. W. in 10-12 M. 
to the romantic districts of the Blue Mts. and the upper Liverpool Lakes 
(see Route 27), at whose entrance is the rural village of Clemenfsvale. 

8-10 M. beyond Digby the steamer passes Goat Island, of which 
Lescarbgt writes, in Les Muses de la Nouvelle France (1609) : 

" Adieu men doux plaisir fonteines et ruisseaux. 
Qui les vaux ot les monts airousez de vos eaux. 
PoLirray-je t'oublier, belle ile foretiere 
Kiche hunuL-ur de ce lieu et de cette riviere ?" 

In 1707 the British frigate Annibal and two brigantines were sailing up the Basin to 
attack Annapolis, when they met such a sharp volley from the lie aux Chevres that 
they vvere forced to retire in confusion. The French name of the island was Ano-M- 
cized by_ translation. On the point near this island was the first settlement of the 
French in Nova Scotia. A fort was erected here by the Scottish pioneers and was 
restored to France by the Treaty of St. Germain, after which it was garrisoned by 
French troops. In 182 < a stone block was found on the point, inscribed with a 

ToZf^i 'T^-""'' t- 'i ^^^ l""^^ '.' 1^^^-" ^"^ ^^^^^ 1'82, there w'as a naval combat 
on boat Island, m which an American war-brig of 8 guns was captured by H. M. S. 

Above the island the Basin is about 1 M. wide, and is bordered by farm- 
streets. To the N. E., across a low alluvial point, are seen the spires and 
ramparts of Annapolis Royal, where the steamer soon reaches her wharf 
after passing under the massive walls of the old fortress. There are sev- 
eral small inns here, the Dominion, Commercial, American, Foster, Per- 
kins, Hillsdale, Granville, etc., and Mrs. Grassie's and Mrs. Cro'zier's 
summer boarding-houses. Their rates are $5-6 a week; and board can be 
obtained on adjacent farms for $3-5 a week. There are weekly steamers 
between Boston and Annapolis. Stages run from Annapolis to Clements- 
port, 81 M.; Victoria Bridge, 13i; Digby, 20^; railway thence to Yar- 
mouth, 87^. Stages also run S. E. 78 M. to Liverpool (see Route 27). 

Annapolis Royal, the capital of Annapolis County, is a maritime and 
agricultural village, situated at the head of the Annapolis Basin, and con- 
tains 1,200 inhabitants. It is frequented by summer visitors on account 
of its pleasant environs and tempered sea-air, and the oppol-tunities for salt- 
water fishing in. the Basin, and trouting among the hills to the S. The 
chief object of interest to the passing traveller is the * old fortress which 
fronts the Basin and covers 28 acres with its ramparts and outworks. It 
is entered by the way of the fields opposite Perkins's Hotel. The works 
are disarmed, and have remained unoccupied for many years. One of the 



86 Route 18. ANNAPOLIS ROYAL. 

last occupations was that of the Eifle Brigade, in 1850; but the post was' 
abandoned soon after, on account of the numerous and successful deser- 
tions which tliinned the ranks of the garrison. But when Canada passed 
into a state of semi-independence in 1867, this fortress was one of the few 
domains reserved to the British Crown. The inner fort is entered by an 
ancient archway which fronts towards the Basin, giving passage to the 
parade-ground, on wliich are the quaint old English barracks, with steep 
roofs and great chimneys. In the S. E. bastion is the magazine, with a 
vaulted roof of masonry, near which are the foundations of the French 
barracks. From the parapet on this side are overlooked the landward out- 
works and the lines of the old Hessian and Waldecker settlements towards 
Clementsport. On the hillside be^'ond the marsh is seen an ancient house 
of the era of the French occupation, the only one now standing in the val- 
ley. In the bastion towards the river is a vaulted room, whence a passage 
leads down to the French garrison-wharf; but the arched way has fallen 
in, and the wharf is now but a shapeless pile of stones. The * view from 
this angle of the works is very beautiful, including the villages of Annapo- 
lis Royal and Granville, the sombre heights of the North and South Mts., 
and the Ba,sin for many miles, with Goat Island in the distance. 

The road which leads by the fortress passes the old garrison cemetery, 
St. Luke's Church, the court-house and county academy, and many 
quaint and antiquated mansions. A ferry crosses to Granville, a little 
shipbuilding village, with 700 inhabitants. A road leads hence across the 
North Mt. in 4r-5 M., to Hillshurn and Leitchjield. 

" Annapolis Royal is a picturesque little town, almost surrounded by water, at 
the head of the Annapolis Basin. On both sides of the Basin rise mountains whose 
background of vegetation lends a peculiar charm to the landscape. Fruit of 
almost every kind common to this continent may be found here in its season. East- 
ward you may proceed by railway to the scene of Longfellow's great poem of ' Evange- 
line ' through a perpetual scene of orchards, dike lands, and viUages, skirted on 
both sides by dreamy mountains, till you reach the grand expanse of the Basin of 
Minas, with Blomidon, the abode of sea-nymphs, holding eternal guard in the 
distance. Annapolis, Royal and Granville Ferry offer special sanitary privileges to 
the weary, the invalid, and the pleasure-seeker ; bathing, trouting, hunting, boat- 
ing, picnicking, are all enjoyed in turn. From the mountain slopes, whither parties 
go for a day's enjoyment, the prospect is unrivalled, and the air invigorating. The 
thermometer rarely rises above 90 degrees in the daj', while the night air is cool 
enough for blankets and light overcoats. A moonhght excursion on the Basin 
is something to remember for a lifetime." 

The Basin of Annapolis was first entered in 1604 by De Monts's fleet, exploring the 
shores of Acadie ; and the beauty of the scene so impressed the Baron de Pou- 
trincourt that he secured a grant here, and named it Port Royal. After the failure 
of the colony at St. Croix Island, the people moved to this point, bringing all 
their stores and supplies, and settled on the N. side of the river. In July, 1606, 
Lescarbot and another company of Frenchmen joined the new settlement, and 
conducted improvements of the land, while Poutrincourt and Champlain explored 
the Massachusetts coast. 400 Indians had been gathered by the sagamore Member- 
tou in a stockaded village near the fort, and all went on well and favorably until De 
Monts's grant was annulled by the King of France, and then the colony was aban- 
doned. 



ANNAPOLIS EOYAL. Route 18. 87 

Four years later the brave Baron de Poutrincourt left his estates in Champagne 
■with a deep cargo of supplies, descended the rivers Aube and Seine, and sailed out 
from Dieppe (Feb. 26, 1610) On arriving at Port Roj'al, everj'thing was found as 
■when left: and the work of proselyting the Indians was at once entered on. Mem- 
bertou and his tribe were converted, baptized, and feasted, amid salutes from the 
cannon and the chanting of the Te Deujn ; and numerous other forest-clans soon 
foUo-sved the same course. 

Poutrincourt was a Gallicap^ Catholic, and hated the Jesuits, but was forced to 
take out two of them to his new domain. They assumed a high authority there, 
but were sternly rebuked by the Baron, who said, " It is my part to rule you on 
earth, and yours only to guide me to heaven." They threatened to lay Port Royal 
under interdict ; and Poutrincourt's son and successor so greatly resented this that 
they left the colony on a mission ship sent out by the Marchioness de Guercheville, 
and founded St. Sauveur, on the island of Mount Desert. In 1613, after the Vir- 
ginians under Capt. Argall had destroyed St. Sauveur, the vengeful Jesuits piloted 
their fleet to Port Royal, which was completely demolished. Poutrincourt came 
out in 1614 only to find his colony in ruins, and the remnant of the people wandering 
in the forest ; and was so disheartened that he returned to France, where he was 
killed, the next year, in the battle of Mery-sur-Seine. 

It is a memorable fact that these attacks of the Virginians on Mount Desert and 
Port Royal were the very commencement of the wars between Great Britain and 
France in North Amei-ica, " which scarcely ever entirely ceased until, at the cost of 
infinite blood and treasure, France was stripped of all her possessions in America by 
the peace of 1763." 

Between 1620 and 1630 an ephemeral Scottish colony was located at Port Royal, 
and was succeeded by the French. In 1628 the place was captured by Sir David 
Kirk, with an English fleet, and was left in ruins. In 1684: it was granted to Claude 
de Razilly, " Seigneur de Razilly, des Eaux Mesles et Cuon, en Anjou," who after- 
wards became commandant of Oleron and vice-admiral of France. He was a bold 
naval officer, related to Cardinal Richelieu ; and his brother Isaac commanded at 
Lahave (see Route 25). His lieutenants were D'Aulnay Churnisay and Charles de la 
Tour, and he transferred all his Acadian estates to the former, in 1642, after which 
began the feudal wars between those two nobles (see page 19). Several fleets sailed 
from Port Royal to attack La Tour, at St. John ; and a Boston fleet, in alliance with 
La Tour, assailed Port Royal. 

In 1654 the town was under the rule of Emmanuel le Borgne, a merchant of La 
Rochelle, who had succeeded to D'Aulnay's estates, by the aid of Cesar, Duke of 
Vendome, on account of debts due to him from the Acadian lord. Later in the 
same year the fortress was taken by a fleet sent out by Oliver Cromwell, but the in- 
habitants of the valley were not disturbed. 

By the census of 1671 there were 361 souls at Port Royal, with over 1,000 head of 
live-stock and 364 acres of cultivated land In 1684 the fishing-fleet of the port was 
captured by English " coi'sairs " ; and in 1686 there were 622 souls in the town. In 
1690 the fort contained 18 cannon and 86 soldiers, and was taken and pillaged by 
Sir William Phipps, who sailed from Boston with 3 war- vessels and 700 men. A 
few months later it was plundered by corsairs from the West Indies, and in 1691 
the Chevalier de Villebon took the fort in the name of France. Baron La Hontan 
wrote : " Port Royal, the capital, or the only city of Acadia, is in effect no more 
than a little paltry town that is somewhat enlarged since the war broke out in 1689 
by the accession of the inhabitants that lived near Boston, the metropolitan of New 
England. It subsists upon the traffic of the skins which the savages bring thither 
to truck for European goods." In the summer of 1707 the fortress was attacked by 
2 regiments and a small fleet, from Boston, and siege operations were commenced. 
An attempt at storming the works by night was frustrated by M. de Subercase's 
vigH^nce and the brisk fire of the French artillery, and the besiegers were finally 
forced to retire with sevei-e loss. A few weeks later a second expedition from Massa- 
chusetts attacked the works, but after a siege of 15 days their camps were stormed 
by the Baron de St. Castin and the Chevalier de la Boularderie, and the feebly led 
Americans were driven on board their ships. Subercase then enlarged the fortress, 
made arrangements to run off slaves from Boston, and planned to capture Rhode 
Island, "which is inhabited by rich Quakers, and is the resort of rascals and even 
pirates." 

In the autumn of 1710 the frigates Dragon, Chester, Falmouth. Leostaffe, Fevers- 
ham, Star, and Province, with 20 transports, left Boston and sailed to Port Royal. 



88 HoutelS. THE ANNAPOLIS VALLEY. 

There -were 2 regiments from Massachusetts, 2 from the rest of New England, and 1 
of Royal Marines. After the erection of mortar-batteries, several days were spent 
in bombarding the fort from the fleet and the siege-lines, but the fire fmm the ram- 
parts was kept up steadily until the garrison were on the verge of starvation ; Suber- 
case then surrendered his forces (258 men), who were shipped off to France, and 
Gen. Nicholson changed the name of Port Royal to Annapolls Royal, in honor of 
Queen Anne, then sovereign of Great Britain. 

In 1711, 80 New-Englanders from the garrison were cut to pieces at Bloody Brook, 
12 M. up the river, and the fortress was then invested by the Acadians and Micmacs, 
For nearly 40 years afterwards Annapolis was almost always in a state of siege, being 
menaced from time to time by the disaffected Acadians and their savage allies. In 
1744 the non-combatants wore sent to Boston for safety, and in July of that year the 
fort was beleaguered by a force of fanatic Catholics under the Abb(3 Laloutre. Five 
companies of Massachusetts troops soon joined the garrison, and the besiegers were 
reinforced by French regulars from Louisbourg. The siege was continued for nearly 
three months, but Gov. Blascarene showed a bold front, and provisions and men 
came in from Boston. The town was destroyed by the artillery of the fort and by 
incendiary sorties, since it served to shelter the hostile riflemen. Soon after Duvivier 
and Laloutre had retired, two French frigates entered the Basin and captured some 
ships of Massachusetts, but left four days before Tyng's Boston squadron arrived. 
A year later, De Ramezay menaced the fort with 700 men, but was easily beaten off 
by the garrison, aided by the frigates Chester, 50, and Shirley, 20, which were lying 
in the Basin. After the deportation of the Acadians, Annapolis remained in peace 
until 1781, when two American war-vessels ascended the Basin by night, surprised 
and captured the fortress and spiked its guns, and plundered every house in the 
town, after locking the citizens up in the old block-house. 

The Annapolis Valley. 

This pretty district has suffered, like the St. John River, from the absurdly ex- 
travagant descriptions of its local admirers, and its depreciation by Mr. Warner (see 
page 84) expresses the natural reaction which must be felt by travellers (unless they 
are from Newfoundland or Labrador) after comparing the actual valley with these 
high-flown panegyrics. A recent Provincial writer says : '' The route of the Wind- 
sor & Annapolis Railway lies through a magnificent farming-country whose beauty 
is so great that wc exhaust the English language of its adjectives, and are compelled 
to revert to the quaint old French which was spoken by the early settlers of this 
Garden of Canada, in our efforts to describe it." In point of fact the Annapolis 
region is far inferior cither in beauty or fertility to the valleys of the Nashua, the 
Schuylkill, the Shenandoah, and scores of other familiar streams which have laeen 
described without effusion and without impressing the service of alien languages. 
The Editor walked through a considerable portion of this valley, in the process of a 
closer analysis of its features, and found a tranquil and commonplace farming- 
district, devoid of salient points of interest, and occupied by an insufiBcient popula- 
tion, among whose hamlets he found unvarying and honest hospitality and kind- 
ness. It is a peaceful rural land, hemmed in between high and monotonous ridges, 
blooming during its brief summer, and Mill afford a series of pretty views and pleas- 
ing suggestions to the traveller whose expectations have not been raised beyond 
bounds by the exaggerated praises of well-meaning, but injudicious authors. 

It is claimed that the apples of the Annapolis Valley are the best in America, and 
50,000 barrels are exported yearly, — many of which are sold in the cities of Great 
Britain. The chief productions of the district are hay, cheese, and live-stock, a large 
proportion of which is exported. 

The Halifax train runs out from Annapolis over the lowlands, and takes 
a course to the N. E., near the old highway. Bridgetown (3 small hotels) 
is the first important station, and is 14 M. from Annapolis, at the head 
of navigation on the river. It has about 1,500 inhabitants, 4 churches, 
and a weekly newspaper, and is situated in a district of apple-orchards 
and rich pastures. Some manuf^turing is done on the water-power of 



WILMOT SPRINGS. Route 18. 89 

the Annapolis River and its branches; and the surrounding country is 
well populated, and is reputed to be one of the healthiest districts in Nova 
Scotia. To the S. is Bloody Brooh, where a detachment of New-England 
troops was massacred by the French and Indians ; and roads lead up over 
the South Mt. into the interior, dotted with small hamlets, inhabited by 
the descendants of old soldiers. Many large lakes and streams filled with 
trout, and good huntiug-grounds are in this region. 

Paradise (small inn) is a pleasantly situated village of about 400 inhab- 
itants, with several saw and grist mills and tanneries. The principal 
exports are lumber and cheese, though there are also large deposits of mer- 
chantable granite in the vicinity. A road crosses the North Mt. to Port 
Williams, 7 M. distant, a fishing-village of about 300 inhabitants, situated 
on the Bay of Fundy. The coast is illuminated here, at night, by two 
white lights. Farther down the shore is the hamlet of St. Croix Cove. 

Lawrtncetown is a prosperous village of about 600 inhabitants, whence 
much lumber is exported. In 1754, 20,000 acres in this vicinity were 
grante'd to 20 gentlemen, who named their new domain in honor of Gov, 
LaAvrence. 8 M. distant, on the summit of the North Mt., is the hamlet 
of Haveloch, beyond which is the farming settlement of Mt. Ilanley, near 
the Bay of Fundy. New Albany (small inn) is a forest-village 8-10 M. 
S. E. of Lawrencetown ; and about 10 M. farther into the great central 
wilderness is the fanning district of Springfield, beyond the South Mt. 

Middhton (Middleton Hotel), a small village near the old iron-mines on 
the South Mt., is the valley terminus of the Nictaux & Atlantic R. R. A 
few miles S. are the Nictaux Falls, a prett}' cascade on a small mountain- 
stream. 1^ M. from Middleton is the hamlet of Lower Middleton, sur- 
rounded by orchards. Wilviot station is ^ M. from Farmington (two 
inns), a pleasant little Presbyterian village. Margaretsville (Harris's 
Hotel) is 7 M. distant, across the North Mt., and is a shipbuilding and fish- 
ing settlement of 300 inhabitants, situated on the Bay of Fundy. Fruit 
and lumber are exported hence to the United States. 

The TVilmot Sprintjs are about 3 M. from Farmington, and have, for many 
years, enjoyerl a local celebrity for their efiRcacy in healing cutaneous diseases and 
•wounds. Hall's Hotel is at the Springs, with pleasant grounds and a goodly pat- 




grains of soda and potash, and 3 grains of magnesia. Many visitors pass the summer 
at Wilmot every year, on account of the benefits resulting from the use of these 
■waters. 

Kingston station is 1^ M. from Kingston, 2 M. from Melvern Square, 
2i M. from Tremont, and 4 M. from Prince William Street, rural hamlets 
in the valley. From Morden Road station a highway runs N. W. 7 M. 
across the North Mt. to the little port of Morden, or French Cross (Bal- 
comb's Hotel), on the Bay of Fundy. Station, Aylesford (Patterson's Hotel) 
a small hamlet from which a road runs S. E. to Factory Dale (4 M.), a man- 



90 Route 18. ' KENTVILLE. 

ufacturing hamlet whence the valley is overlooked ; and the farming towns 
of Jacksonville and Morristown are 5 - 7 M. away, on the top of the South Mt. 

ILake George (HalPs inn) is 12 M. distant, whence the great forest-bound chain 
of the Ayle>.ford Lakes may be visited. The chief of these is Kempt Lake, 
■svhich is about 7 M. long. A road runs S. from the Lake George settlement by Lake 
Paul and Owl Lake to Falkland (32 M. from Ayle.-ford), which is on the great Lake 
Sherbrooke, in Lunenburg County, near the head-waters of the Gold Kiver. 

" The great Aylesford sand- plain folks call it, in a ginral way, the Devil's Goose 
Pasture. It is IS M. long and 7 M. wide ; it ain't just drifting sands, but it 's all 
but that, it 's so barren. It 's uneven, or wavy, like the swell of the sea in a calm, 
and is covered with short, thin, dry, coarse grass, and dotted here and there with a 
half-starved birch and a stunted misshapen spruce.. It is jest about as silent and 

lonesome and desolate a place as you would wish to see All that country 

thereabouts, as I have heard tell when I was a boy, was once owned by the Lord, 
the king, and the devil. The glebe-lands belonged to the first, the ungranted wil- 
derness-lands to the second, and the sand-plain fell to the share of the last (and 
people do say the old gentleman was rather done in the division, but that is neither 
here nor there), and so it is called to this day the DeviVs Goose Pasture.'''' 

Station, Bericich (two inns), a prosperous village of 400 inhabitants, 
where the manufacture of shoes is carried on. A road leads to the N. W. 
7 M. across Pleasant Valley and the Black Rock Mt. to Harborville, a ship- 
building village on the Bay of Fundy, whence large quantities of cordwood 
and potatoes are shipped to the United States. Several miles farther up 
the baj^-shore is the village of Canada Creek, near which is a lighthouse. 

At Berwick the line enters the * Cornwallis Valley, which is shorter 
but much more picturesque than that of Annapolis. Following the course 
of the Cornwallis River, the line approaches the base of the South Mt., 
while the North Mt. ti'ends away to the N. E. at an ever-increasing angle. 
Beyond the rural stations of Waterville, Cambridge, and Coldbrook, the 
train reaches Kentville {Webster House; restaurant in the station), the 
headquarters of the railway and the capital of Kings County. This town 
has 3,000 inhabitants, 5 churches, and a weeldy newspaper; and there are 
several mills and quarries in the vicinity. Raw umber and manganese 
have been found here. The roads to the N. across the mountain lead to 
the maritime hamlets of Hall's Harbor (10 M.), Chipman's Brook (14 M.), 
and Baxter's Harbor (12 M.); also to Sheflaeld Mills (7 M.), Canning 
(8 M.), Steam Mills (2 M.), and Billtown (6 M.). 

Kentville to Chester. 

The Royal mail-stages leave Kentville at 6 A. M. on Monday and Thursday, reach- 
ing Chester in the afternoon. The return trip is made on Tuesday and Friday. The 
distance between Kentville and Chester is 46 M., and the intervening country is 
wild and picturesque. After passing the South Mt. by the Mill-Brook Valley, at 
8-10 M. from Kentville, the road runs near the Gaspereavx Lake, a beautiful 
forest-loch about 5 M. long, with many islands and highly diversified shores. This 
Avater is connected by short straits with the island-studded Two-Mile Lake and the 
Four-Mile Lake, near which are the romantic Aylesford Lakes. E. and S. E. of 
the Gaspereaux Lake are the trackless solitudes of the far-spreading Blue Mts., 
amid whose recesses are the lakelets where the Gold River takes its rise. At 20 M. 
from Kentville the stage enters the Episcopal village of Neio Ross (Turner's Hotel), 
at the crossing of the Dalhousie Road"*:om Halifax to Annapolis. From this poiat 
the stage descends the valley of the Gold River to Chester (see Route 24). 



WINDSOR. Route 18. 91 

The Halifax train runs E. from Kentville down the Cornwallis Valley to 
Port Williams, which is 1^ M. from the village of that name, whence daily- 
stages run to Canning. The next station is Wolfville, from which the Land 
of Evangeline ma}' most easily be visited (see Eoute 22). The buildings 
of Acadia College are seen on the hill to the r. of the track. 

The Halifax train runs out from Wolfville with the wide expanse of the 

reclaimed meadows on the 1., beyond which is Cape Blomidon, looming 

leagues away. In a few minutes the train reaches Grand Pre, and as it 

slows up before stopping, the tree is seen (on the 1. about 300 ft. from the 

\ track) which marks the site of the ancient Acadian chapel. Be3'ond //o?^- 

I ton Landing the Gaspei'eaux River is crossed, and the line begins to swing 

I around toward the S. E. At Avonjjort the line reaches the broad Avon 

Eiver, and runs along its 1. bank to Hanisport (two inns). This is a 

large manufacturing and shipbuilding village, where numerous vessels 

are ov^med. In the vicinity are productive quarries of freestone. Mount 

Denson station is near the hi]l whose ofF-look Judge Haliburton so highly 

ex'ols: — 

" I have seen at different periods of my life a good deal of Europe and much of 
America ; but I have seldom seen anything to be compared with the view of the 
Basin of Minas and its adjacent landscape, as it presents itself to you on your ascent 

of Mount Denson He who travels on this continent, and does not spend a few 

days on the shores of this beautiful and extraordinary basin, may be said to have 
missed one of the greatest attractions on this side of the water." 

The next station is Falmouth, in a region which abounds in gypsum. 
Back toward Central Falmouth there are prolific orchards of apples. The 
line now crosses the Avon River on the most costly bridge in the Mari- 
time Provinces, over the singular tides of this system of waters. 

The traveller who passes from Annapolis to Windsor at the hours of low-tide will 
sympathize with the author of " Baddeck," who says that the Avon " would have 
been a charming river if there had been a drop of water in it. I never knew before 
how much water adds to a river. Its slimy bottom was quite a ghastly spectacle, 
an ugly rent in the land that nothing could heal but the friendly returning tide. 
I should think it would be confusing to dwell by a river that runs first one way and 
then the other and then vanishes altogether." 

The remarkable tides of this river are also described by Mr. Noble, as follows : 
The tide was out, " leaving miles of black " (red) " river-bottom entirely bare, with 
only a small stream coursing through in a serpentine manner. A line of blue water 
was visible on the northern horizon. After an absence of an hour or so, I loitered 
back, when, to my surprise, there was a river like the Hudson at Catskill, running 
up with a powerful current. The high wharf, upon which but a short time before 
I had stood and surveyed the black, unsightly fields of mud, was now up to its mid- 
dle in the turbid and whirling stream." 

Windsor {Clifton House, large and comfortable; Avon House: Victoria) 
is a cultured and prosperous town of 3,019 inhabitants, occupying the 
promontory at the intersection of the Avon and St. Croix Rivers. The 
adjacent districts of Falmouth and St. Croix have about 6,000 inhabitants. 
There are in Windsor 7 churches, 2 banks, an iron foundry, furniture 
factories, shipyards, etc. Tlie chief exportation of Windsor is plaster 
of Paris, or gypsum, large quantities of which are used in the United 



92 Route IS. WINDSOR. j 

States for fertilizing the soil and calcining purposes. Near the end of the 
railway bridge, on a projecting hill, is the Clifton mansion, formerly the i 
home of the genial and witt}'- Thomas C. Haliburton (born at "Windsor in , 
1797, 13 years a Judge in Nova Scotia, 6 years an M. P. at London, and ' 
died in 1805), the author of "Sam Slick, The Clockmaker," etc. i 

On the knoll over the village are the crumbling block-houses and earth- 
works of Fort Edward, whence is obtained a pretty view down the widen- 
ing Avon and out over the distant Basin of Minas. About 1 M. from 
the station, on a hill which overlooks the fine valley of the Aa'ou and its 
uncleared mountain-rim, are the plain buildings of King's College, the 
oldest college now existing in Canada. 

It was founded in 1788. and chartered by King Georgo TIT. in 1802. It is under 
the patronage of the Archbishop of Canterbury, and is well endowed with soholnr- 
ships, honors, etc. Its officers must belong to the Church of England, though 
there arc no tests for admission of students. Many of the most influential and 
dislingnished Kritish-Americans have been educated here, and " Kingsmen " are 
found in all parts of Canada. The college has (5 professors and about 40 students. 
There is also a divinity school in connection with the college. 

Tiie Province of Nova Scotia is occupied by 36 Christian sects. Of its inhabitants. 
55,124 belong to the Anglican Church, and are ministered to by a lord bishop, 4 
canons, 8 rural deans, and 68 clergymen. There are 102,001 Catholics, 103,539 Pres- 
byterians, 73,430 Baptists, 41,751 Methodists, and 4,958 Lutherans (census of 1871). 

The site of "Windsor was called by the Indians Pisirjnid, " the Junction of the 
Waters," and the adjacent lowlands were settled at an early day by the French, who 
raised large quantities of wheat and exported it to Boston. The French settled in 
this vicinity about the middle of the 17th century, but retired far into the interior 
at the time of the British conquest. Gov. Lawrence issued a proclamation inviting 
settlers to come in from New England, stating that " 100,000 acres of land had been 
cultivated anil had borne wheat, rye, barley, oats, hemp, flax, etc., for the last cen- 
tury Avithout failure." The deserted French hamlets were occupied in 1759-60 by 
families from Massachusetts and Rhode Island, and their descendants still possess 
the land. The llhode-Islandei-s erected the township of Newport, Massachusetts 
formed Falmouth, and ^Vindsor was granted to British officers and was fortified in 
1759. The broad rich marshes near Windsor had attracted a large Acadian popula- 
tion, and here was their principal church, whose site is still venerated by the Mic- 
mac Indians. 

" I cannot recall a prettier village than this. If you doubt ray word, come and 
see it. Yonder we discern a portion of the Basin of Minas ; around us are the rich 
meadows of Nova Scotia. Intellect has here placed a crowning college upon a hill; 
opulence has surrounded it with picturesque villas." (Cozzi.KS.) Another writer 
has spoken with enthusiasm of Windsor's " wjde and beautiful envu'ouing mead- 
ows and the hanging-gardens of mountain-forests on the S. and W." 

The Hiilifax ti-ain sweeps along the St. Croix River around Windsor, 
passing (on the r.) the dark buildings of King's College, on a hilltop, with 
the new chapel in front of their line. The character of the landscape be- 
gins to change, and to present a striking contrast with the agricultural 
regions just traversed. 

" Indeed, if a man can live on rocks, like a goat, he may settle anywhere between 
Windsor and Halifax. AVith the exception of a wild pond or two, we saw nothing 
but rocks and stunted lira for forty-five miles, a monotony unrelieved by one pic- 
turesque feature. Then Me longed for the ' Gai'den of Nova Scotia,' and understood 
what is meant bj^ the name." ( W'arner's Baddeck.) 

Beyond Three-Mile Plains t^e train reaches Newport, near which large 




B. 3, 

B. 3. 

C. 3. 
/>. 2. 

A 2. 

C. 2. 

W. 4. 

B. 3. 

:£. 1. 



S3. Officer^ (Quarters, 

24. Military Hospital, 

25. ^«^i7»'j Z>ofi{ rar</, 

26. Admiralty House, 

K ^. ,C. A., 

Halifax Club, 

Halifax Hotel, 

International Hotel, 

Carlton Hotel, 

32. Waverley Hotel, 
83. Railway Station, 



C. 3. 

C. 2. 
*£■. 3. 
E. 1. 

C. 8, 
^.C. 8. 

B. 3. 
J&. 3. 

C. 3. 
;«. 3. 
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© 



HALIFAX. Route 19. 93 

quantities of gypsum are quarried from the veins in the soft marly sand- 
stone. Nearly 3,000 tons of this fine fibrous mineral are shipped yearly 
from Newport to the United States. To the N. are the villages of 
Brooklyn (5 M.), devoted to manufacturing; Scotch Village (9 M.), a 
farming settlement; and Burlington, on the Kennetcook River (10 M.)- 
Chivirie and Walton, 20-22 M. N., on the Basin of Minas, are accessible 
from Newport by a tri-weekly' conveyance. The train passes on to Ellers- 
house (small inn), a hamlet clustered around a furniture-factory and 
lumber-mills. 2^ M. distant is the settlement at the foot of the Ardoise 
Mt., which is the highest point of land in the Province, and overlooks 
Falmouth, Windsor, and the Basin of Minas. The train now crosses the 
Five-Island Lake, skirts Uniacke Lake, with Mt. Uniacke on the N., and 
stops at the Mt. Uniacke station (small inn). The Mt. Uniacke estate and 
mansion were founded more than 50 years ago by Richard John Uniacke, 
then Attorney-General of Nova Scotia. The house occupies a picturesque 
position between two rock-bound lakes, and the domain has a hard- 
working tenantiy. The Mt. Uniacke Gold-Mines are 3 M. from the sta- 
tion, and were opened in 1865. In 1869 the mines yielded $37,340, or 
$ 345 to each workman, being 6 ounces and 4 pennyweights from each 
ton of ore. For the next 10 M. the line traverses an irredeemable wil- 
derness, and then reaches Beaver Bank, whence lumber and slate are 
exported. At Windsor Junction the train runs on to the rails of the 
Intercolonial Railway (see page 82), which it follows to Halifax. 

19. Halifax. 

Arrival from tlie Sea. — Cape Sambro is usually seen first by the passenger 
on the transatlantic steamers, and Halifax Harbor is soon entered between the light- 
houses on Chebucto Head and Devil Island. These lights are 1}4 M. apart, Chebucto 
(on tlie I.) having a revolving light visible for 18 M., and Devil Island a fixed red 
light on a brown tower. On the Vy. shore the fishing-hamlets of Portuguese Cove, 
Bear Cove, and Herring Cove are passed in succession. 4 M. S. E. of Herring Cove 
is the dangerous Thrumcap Shoal, where H. B. M. frigate La Tribune, 44, was 
■wrecked in 1797, and nearly all her people were lost, partly by reason of an absurd 
stretch of naval punctilio. Between this shoal and McNab's Island on one side, and 
the mainland on the other, is the long and narrow strait called the Eastern Passage. 
In 1862 the Confederate cruiser Tallahassee was blockaded in Halifax Harbor by a 
squadron of United-States frigates. The shallow and tortuous Eastern Passage was 
not watched, since nothing but small fishing-craft had ever traversed it, and it was 
considered impassable for a steamer like the Tallahassee. But Capt. Wood took ad- 
vantage of the high tide, on a dark night, and crept cautiously out behind McNab's 
Island. By daylight he was far out of sight of the outwitted blockading fleet. 

2 M. from Herring Cove the steamer passes Salisbury Head, and runs between the 
Martello Tower and lighthouse on Maugher Beach (r. side) and the York Redoubt 
(1.}^ M. apart) Near the Redoubt is a Catholic church, and a little above is the 
hamlet of Falkland, with its Episcopal church, beyond which the N. "W. Arm opens 
on the 1. Passing between the batteries on McNab's Island and Fort Ogilvie, on 
Point Pleasant, the steamship soon runs by Fort Clarence and the fortress on George 
Island, and reaches her wharf at Halifax, with the town of Dartmouth and the great 
Insane Asylum on the opposite shore. 

Arrival by Railway. — The railway has been prolonged, by a system of 
costly works, to a terminus within the city, where a large and handsome ter- 
minal station has been erected, with all modern conveniences. It is not far from 
the Queen's Dock Yard. 



94 Route 19. HALIFAX. 

Hotels.— The * Halifax, 107 HoUis St., S2 a day; the * International, on Hol- 
lis St., SI. 75 -2 a day; Carltoa House, 57 Argyle St., small but aristocratic; 
Royal, Argyll St. ; Mansion House, 149 Barrington St. ; Waverley, Pleasant St. ; 
Albion, Sackville St. ; and numerous small second-class houses. Halifax needs a 
first-class modern hotel. 

liestauraiits. —Ices, pastry, and confectionery may be obtained at the shops 
on Barrington and Hollis Sts. American beverages are compounded at the bar in 
the Halifex House. 

Reading-Iiooms. — The Young Men's Christian Association, corner of 
Granville and Prince Sts. ; the Provincial Library, m the Parliament Buildings ; 
and in the two chief hotels. The Halifax Library is at 197 Hollis St. ; and the 
Citizens' Free Library (founded by Chief Justice Sir WiUiam Young) is at 265 Bar- 
rington St., and i.'^ open from 3 to 6 p. m. The Merchants' Exchange and Reading- 
Room is at 158 Hollis St. The Church of England Institute (Library and Gymna- 
sium) is in Granville St. 

Clubs. — The Halifax Club has an elegant house at 155 Hollis St. ; the Catho- 
lic Young Men's Club, Starr St. (open from 2 to 10 P.M.); the Highland, North 
British, St. George's, Charitable Irish, and Germania Societies. The Royal Halifax 
Yacht Club has a house at Richmond, with billiard and reading rooms, and a hne 
of piers and boat-houses for the vessels of their fleet. 

Amusements. — There is a neat, comfortable, and fairly appointed theatre, 
called the Academy of Music ; and several Lecture Halls. During the winter some 
fine skating is enjoyed at the lliuk, in the Public Gardens. Good games of cricket 
and indiiferent base-ball playing may be seen on the Garrison Cricket-Ground. 
But Halifax is chiefly famous for the interest it takes in trials of skill between 
yachtsmen and oarsmen, and exciting aquatic contests occur frequently during 
the summer. 

Omnibuses traverse the chief streets throughout the city, at a low rate of fare. 
The horse-car tracks have been taken up. There are also a great number of car- 
riages of various kinds, but their fares are not low. 

KailAvays. — The Intercolonial, running to St .John, N. B., in 276 M. (see 
Routes 16 and 17), and to Pictou in 113 M. (see Route 31) : the \yindsor & AnnapoUs, 
prolonged by a steamship connection to St. John (see Route 18). 

Steamships. -The Allan Line, fortnightly, for St. John's, N. F, Queens- 
town, and Liverpool, Norfolk, and Baltimore. Fares, Halifax to Liverpool, $75 
and .§ 25 ; to Norfolk or Baltimore, S 20 and § 12. The Anchor Line, for St. John's, 
N. F., and Glasgow. The Royal Mail Steamers Alpha and Delta (Cunard Line) 
leave Halifax for Bermuda and St. Thomas every fourth Monday, connecting at St. 
Thomas with steamships for all parts of the West Indies, Panama, and the Spanish 
Main. 

The Carroll and Worcester leave Es^n's Wharf for Boston on alternate Satur- 
days. Fare, $8; with state-room, S9. 

The Carroll or the Worcester leaves Esson's WTiarf every Monday noon for the 
Strait of Canso and Charlottetown, P. E. I. Fares to Charlottetown, cabin, $4; 
cabin state-room, $5; saloon state-room, $6. The George Shattuck leaves Cor- 
betts' Wharf, fortnightly, for N. Sydney, C. B , and St. Pierre, Miq. (see Route 
50). The steamship J^ir^/o leaves for Sydney, C. B., and St. John's, N. F., every 
alternate Tuesday (see Routes 33 and 51). Fares, to Sydney, $ 8 ; to St. John's, 
S15. The passenger steamers Alhambra and Canima, of the Cromwell Line, ply 
between Halifax and New York at intervals of about 10 days. 

The Micmac cruises in the harbor during the summer, running from the South 
Ferry Wharf to McNab's Island and up the N. W. Arm (fare, 25 c.). The steam- 
ferry from Dartmouth has its point of departure near the foot of George St. The 
Goliah makes frequent trips up the Bedford Basin. 

Stages leave Halifax daily for Chester, Lunenburg, Liverpool, Shelburne, and 
Yarmouth (see Route 24), departing at 6 A. M Stages leave at 6 a. m., on Monday, 
Wednesday, and Friday for Musquodoboit Harbor, Jeddore, Ship Harbor. Tangier, 
Sheet Harbor, Beaver Harbor, and Salmon River (see Route 29). 

Halifax, the capital of tlie Province of ISTova Scotia, and the chief 
naval station of the British Empire in the Western Hemisphere, occupies a 
commanding position on one of the finest harbors of the Atlantic coast. It 



HALIFAX. Route 19. 95 

has 36,100 inhabitants (census of 1881), with 7 banks, 5 daily papers and 
several tri-weeklies and weeklies, and 26 churches (7 Anglican, 7 Presby- 
terian, 3 each of Catholic, Wesleyan, and Baptist). The city occupies a 
picturesque position on the E. slope of the peninsula (of 3,000 acres), be- 
tAveen the bay, the N. W. Arm, and the Bedford Basin; and looks out 
upon a noble harbor, deep, completely sheltered, easily accessible, and 
large enough " to contain all the navies of Europe." In 1869 the imports 
amounted to $7,202,504, and the exports to $3,169,548; and in 1870 the 
assessed valuation of the city was $16,753,812. The city has a copious 
supply of water, which is drawn from the Chain Lakes, about 12 M. dis- 
tant, and so high above Halifax that it can force jets over the highest 
houses by its own pressure. There is a fire-alarm telegraph, and an etfi- 
cient fire department, with several steam-engines. 

The city lies along the shore of the harbor for 2^ M., and is about | M. 
wide. Its plan is regular, and some of the business streets are well built; 
but the general character of the houses is that of poor construction and 
dingy colors. It has, however, been much bettered of late years, owing to 
the improvements after two great fires, and to the wealth which flowed in 
during the American civil Avar, and hardly deserves the severe criticism 
of a recent traveller: "Probably there is not anywhere a more rusty, for- 
lorn town, and this in spite of its magnificent situation." 

Hollis and Granville Streets, in the vicinity of the Parliament Buildings, 
contain the most attractive shops and the headquarters of the great import- 
ing houses. Many of the buildings in this section are of solid and elegant 
construction, chough the prevalence of dark colors gives a sombre hue to 
the street lines. 

The Parliament Building occupies the square between Hollis, George, 
Granville, and Prince Streets, and is surrounded with trees. In 1830 this 
plain structure of gray stone was called the finest building in North 
America, but American architecture has advanced very far since that 
time. Opposite the Granville-St. entrance is the Library, occupying a 
very cosey little hall, and supplied with British and Canadian works on 
law, history, and science. In the N. part of the building is the plain and 
commodious hall of the House of Assembly ; and on the S. is the chamber 
of the Legislative Council, in which are some fine portraits. On the r. and 
1. of the vice-regal throne are full-length * portraits of King George III. 
and Queen Charlotte; on the N. wall are Chief Justice Blowers, King 
William IV., Judge Haliburton (see page 92), * Sir Thomas Strange (by 
Benjamin West), and Sir Brenton Haliburton. Opposite the throne are 
Nova Scotia's military heroes. Sir John Inglis (the defender of Lucknow) 
and Sir W. Fenwick Williams of Kars. On the S. wall are full-length por- 
traits of King George II. and Queen Caroline. 

The new Provincial Building is E. of the Parliament Building, on 
Hollis St., and is 140 by 70 ft. in area. It is built of brown freestone, in 



96 Route 19. HALIFAX. 

an ornate style of architecture, and cost $120,000. The lower story is- 
occupied by the Post-OfRce ; and the third floor contains the * Provincial 
Museum, which exhibits preserved birds, animals, reptiles, fossils, min- 
erals, shells, coins, and specimens of the stones, minerals, coals, and gold 
ores of Nova Scotia. There are also numerous Indian relics, curiosities 
from Japan and China, naval models, and old portraits. Opposite the en- 
trance is a gilt pyramid, which represents the amount of gold produced 
in the Province between 1862 and 1870, — 5 tons, 8 cwt., valued at 
$ 3,373,431. Most of this gold has been coined at the U. S. Mint in Phila- 
delphia, and is purer and finer than that of California and Montana. 

On the corner of Granville and Prince Streets, near the Parliament 
Building, is the new and stately stone building of the Young Men's Chris- 
tian Association, with its reading-rooms and other departments. The 
massive brownstone house of the Halifax Club is to the S., on Hollis St. 

The * Citadel covers the summit of the hill upon whose slopes the city is 
built, and is 250 ft. above the level of the sea. Visitors are admitted and 
allowed to pass around the ramparts under escort of a soldier, after regis- 
tering their names at the gate. Tlie attendant soldier will point out all 
the objects of interest, and (if he be an artillerist) will give instructive 
discourse on the armament, though his language may sometimes become 
hopelessly technical. The Citadel is a fortress of the first class, according 
to the standards of the old school ; though of late years the government 
has bestowed much attention on the works at George's Island, which are 
more important in a naval point of view. 

Tlie -works were commenced by Prince Edward, the Duke of Kent, and the father 
of Queen Victoria, who was then Commander of the Forces on this station. He em- 
plojed in the service a large number of the Maroons, who had been conquered by 
the British, and were banished fi-om Jamaica, and subsequent^ deported to Sierra 
Leone. Changes and additions have been made nearly every year since, until the 
present immense stronghold has been completed. It is separated from the glacis by 
a deep moat, over which are the guns on the numerous bastions. The massive ma- 
sonry of the walls seems to defy assault, and the extensive barracks within are said 
to be bomb-proof. During the years 1873-74 the artillery has been changed, and 
the previous mixed armament has been to a great degree replaced by muzzle-load- 
ing Woolwich guns of heav}' calibre, adapted for firing the conical Palliser shot with 
points of chilled iron. The visitor is allowed to walk around the circuit of the ram- 
parts, and this elevated station affords a broad view on either side. Perhaps the 
best prospect is that from the S. E. bastion, overlooking the crowded city on the 
slopes below; the narrow harbor with its shipping; Dartmouth, sweeping up to- 
ward Bedford Basin; Fort Clarence, below Dartmouth, with its dark casemates; 
McNab's Island, crowned with batteries and shutting in the Eastern Passage ; the 
outer harbor, with its fortified points, and the ocean beyond. 

Near the portal of the citadel is an outer battery of antiquated guns; and at the 
S. end of the glacis are the extensive barracks of the Royal Artillery. Other mili- 
tary qviarters are seen on the opposite side of the Citadel. 

"But if you cast yoA eyes over yonder magnificent bay, where vessels bearing 
flags of all nations are at anchor, and then let your vision sweep past and over the 
islands to the outlets beyond, where the quiet ocean lies, bordered with fog-banks 
that loom ominously at the boundary -line of the horizon, you will see a picture of 
marvellous beauty ; for the coast scenery here transcends our own sea-shores, both 
in color and outfine. And behind us again stretch large green plains, dotted with 
cottages, and bounded with undulating Jiills, with now and then glimpses of blue 



HALIFAX. Route 19. 97 

water ; and as we walk down Citadel Hill, we feel half reconciled to Halifax, its 
quaint mouldy old gables, its soldiers and sailors, its fogs, cabs, penny and half- 
penny tokens, and all its little, odd, outlandish peculiarities." (Cozzens.) 

Lower Water St. borders the harbor-front, and gives access to the 
wharves of the various steamship and packet lines. It runs from the 
Ordnance Yard, at the foot of Buckingham St., to the Government reser- 
vation near George Ishind, and presents a remarkably dingy and dilapi- 
dated appearance throughout its entire length. 

The Queen's Dockyard occupies ^ M. of the shore of the upper harbor, 
and is surrounded on the landward side by a high stone-wall. It contains 
the usual paraphernalia of a first-class navy-yard, — storehouses, machine- 
shops, docks, arsenals, a hospital, and a line of officers' quarters. It is 
much used by the frigates of the British navy, both to repair and to refit, 
and the visitor may generally see here two or three vessels of Her Britan- 
nic Majesty. 

The Dockyard was founded in 1758, and received great additions (including the 
present wall) in 1770. During the two great wars with the United States it was 
invaluable as a station for the royal navy, whose fleets thence descended upon the 
American coast. Many trophies of the war of 1812 were kept here (as similar marine 
mementos of another nation are kept in the Brooklyn and Washington Navy- Yards), 
including the figure-head of the unfortunate American frigate, the Chesapeake, 
which was captured in 1813, off Boston Harbor, by the British frigate Shannon, and 
was brought into HaUfax with great rejoicing. It is, perhaps, in Iciudly recognition 
of the new fraternity of the Anglo-American nations, that the Imperial Government 
has latel}^ caused these invidious emblems of strife to be removed. 

The Dockyard is not open to the pubHc, but the superintendent wiU generally 
admit visitors upon presentation of their cards. 

In the N. vV. part of the city, near the foot of Citadel Hill, is the 
Military Hospital, before which is the Garrison Chapel, a plain wooden 
building on whose inner walls are many mural tablets in memory of offi- 
cers Avho have died on this station. Beyond this point, Brunswick St. 
runs N. W. by the Church of the Redeemer to St. George's Church, a sin- 
guhir wooden building of a circular form. At the corner of Brunswick 
and Gerrish Sts. is a cemetery, in which stands a quaint little church 
dating from 1761, having been erected by one of the first companies of 
German immigrants. 

On Gottingen St. is the Church of St. Joseph, where the Catholic seamen 
of the fleet attend mass on Sunday at 9^ A. m. Near this building is the 
Orphan Asylum of the Sistei's of Charity. 

Farther N. on Gottingen St. is the Deaf and Dumb Asjdum, beyond 
which, on North St., is the Roman Catholic College of St. Mary, at Belle 
Air. This institution is under the charge of the Christian Brothers, and 
has the same line of studies as an American high-school. Farther out on 
Gottingen St. is the Admiralty House, the official residence of the com- 
mander-in-chief of the North-American and West-Indian Squadrons, be- 
yond which are the Wellington Barracks, ovej* the Richmond railway- 
station. From the plateau on which the secluded Admiralty House is 
5 Q 



98 Route 19. HALIFAX. 

located, the visitor can look down on the Queen's Dockyard, the fleet, 
and the inner harbor. 

The Roman Catholic Cathedral of St. Mary is on the Spring Garden 
Eoad, near its intersection with Pleasant St. It has recently been much 
enlarged and improved by the addition of an elegant granite facade and 
spire, in florid Gothic architecture. The Cathedral fronts on an old and 
honored cemetery, on whose E. side is a finely conceived * monument to 
Welsford and Parker, the Nova-Scotian heroes of the Crimean War. 
(Major Welsford was killed in the storming of the Redan.) It consists of 
a small but massive arch of brownstone, standing on a broad granite base, 
and supporting a statue of the British lion. Opposite the cemetery, on 
Pleasant St., is the Presbyterian Church of St. Matthew (under the care 
of the Rev. Mr. Laing). Above the Cathedral, on the Spring Garden 
Road, is the handsome building of the Court House, well situated amid 
open grounds, near the jail and the capacious drill-sheds. 

The Horticultural Gardens are on the Spring Garden Road, and are well 
arranged and cared for. They were purchased by the city in September, 
1874, and were then united with the Public Gardens, which are just S. of 
Citadel Hill. Military music is given here by the garrison bands during 
the summer. Near the Gardens is the Convent of the Sacred Heart, a 
stately building situated in pleasant grounds. The Protestant Cemetery 
adjoins the Horticultural Gardens on the W., and contains a great number 
of monuments. In the same quarter of the city, below Morris St., are the 
new Blind Asylum, the City Hospital, and till lately the immense Poor 
Asylum, completed at a cost of $ 260,000, and recently burned. 

The Government House is a short distance beyond St. Matthew's 
Church, on Pleasant St., and is the ofiicial residence of the Lieutenant- 
Governor of Nova Scotia. It is a plain and massive old stone biiilding, 
with projecting wings, and is nearly surrounded by trees. Farther S., on 
Morris St., is the Anglican Cathedral of St. Luke, a plain and homely 
wooden building. Beyond this point are the pretty wooden chui-ches and 
villas which extend toward Point Pleasant. 

At the foot of South St. are the Ordnance Grounds, from whose ■wharf the lower 
harbor is overlooked. About 1,800 ft. distant is George's Island, on which is 
a powerful modern fortress, bearing a heavy armament from which immense chilled- 
iron or steel-pointed shot could be hurled against a hostile fleet. This position ia 
the key to the harbor, and converges its fire with that of Fort Clarence, a low but 
massive casemated work, 1 M. S. E. on the Dartmouth shore, whose guns could 
sweep the Eastern Passage and the inner harbor. The passage from the outer har- 
bor is defended by the York Redoubt, near Sandwich Point, by a new line of bat- 
teries on the N. W. shore of McNab's Island, and by the forts on Point Pleasant. 

At the corner of Prince and Barrington Sts. is St. Paul's Episcopal 
Church, a plain and spacious old building (built in 1750), with numerous 
mural tablets on the inner walls. Dalhousie College and University is at 
the corner of Duke and Barrington Sts., and was founded by the Earl of 
Dalhousie while he was Governor-General of Canada. Its design was to 



HALIFAX. Route 19. 99 

provide means for the liberal education of young men who did not wish to 
go (or were debarred from going) to King's College, at Windsor. There 
are 7 professors in the academic department, and the medical school has 
13 professors. 

In the summer of 1746 the great French Armada sailed from Brest to conquer the 
British North-American coast from Virginia to Newfoundland. It was commanded 
by the Duke d'Anville,and wf^s composed of the line-of-battle ships Trident, Ardent, 
Mars, and Alcide, 64 guns each; the Northumberland, CariLon,Tigre, Leopard, and 
Revommce.QQ guns each; the Diamant, 50; Megere, 30; Argoiiaute,2Q; Prince 
d'' Orange , 213 \ the Parfait, Mercure, Palme, Girous, Perle, and 22 other frigates, 
with 30 transports, carrying an army of 3,150 soldiers. D'Anville's orders were to 
" occupy Louisbourg, to reduce Nova Scotia, to destroy Boston, and ravage the 
coast of New England." The Armada was dispersed, however, by a succession of 
unparalleled and disastrous storms, and D'Anville reached Chebucto Bay (Halifax) 
on Sept. 10, with only 2 ships of the hue and a few transports. Six days later the 
unfortunate Duke died of apoplexy, induced by grief and distress on account of the 
disasters which his enterprise had suffered. The Yice-Admiral D'Estournelle com- 
mitted suicide a few days later. Some other vessels now arrived here, and immense 
barracks were erected along the Bedford Basin. 1,200 men had died from scurvy on 
the outward voyage, and the .camps were soon turned into hospitals. Over 1,000 
French soldiers and 2 - 300 Micmac Indians died around the Basin and were buried 
near its quiet waters. Oct. 13, the French fleet, numbering 5 ships of the line 
and 25 frigates and transports, sailed from Halifax, intending to attack Annapolis 
Royal ; but another terrible storm arose, while the vessels were off Cape Sable, and 
scattered the remains of the Armada in such wide confusion that they were obliged 
to retire from the American waters. 

The Indians called Halifax harbor Chebucto, meaning "the chief haven," and the 
French named it La Bale Saine, "on account of the salubrity of the air." 

In the year 1748 the British Lords of Trade, incited by the people of Massachu- 
setts, determined to found a city on the toast of Nova Scotia, partly in prospect of 
commercial advantages, and partly to keep the Acadians in check. Parliament 
voted £40,000 for this purpose; and on June 21, 1749, a fleet of 13 transports 
and the sloop-of-war Sphinx arrived in the designated harbor, bearing 2,376 colo- 
nists (of whom over 1,500 were men). The city was laid out in July , and was named 
in honor of George Montagu, Earl of Halifax, the head of the Lords of Trade. The 
Acadians and the Indians soon sent in their submission ; but in 1751 the suburb of 
Dartmouth was attacked at night by the latter, and many of its citizens were massacred. 
500 Germans settled here in 1751-52, but it was found diiiicult to preserve the col- 
ony, since so many of its citizens passed over to the New-England Provinces. The great 
fleets and armies of Loudon and Wolfe concentrated here before advancing against 
Louisbourg and Quebec ; and the city afterwards grew in importance as a naval sta- 
tion. Representative government was established in 1758, and the Parliament of 
1770 remained in session for 14 years, while Halifax was made one of the chief sta- 
tions whence the royal forces were directed upon the insurgent American colonies. 
After the close of the Revolutionary War, many thousands of exiled Loyalists took 
refuge here ; and the wooden walls and towers with which the city had been forti- 
fied were replaced with more formidable defences by Prince Edward. 

The ancient pahsade-wall included the space between the present Salter, Barring- 
ton, and Jacob Streets, and the harbor ; and its citadel was the small Government 
House, on the site of the present Parliament Building, which was surrounded with 
hogsheads filled with sand, over which light cannons were displayed. 

The growth of Ilahfax during the present century has been' very slow, in view of 
its great commercial advantages and possibiUties. The presence of large bodies of 
troops, and the semi-military regime of a garrison-town, have had a certain effect ia 
deadening the energy of the citizens. Great sums of money were, however, made 
here during the American civil war, when the sympathies of the Ilaligonians were 
warmly enlisted in favor of the revolted States, and many blockade-runners sailed 
hence to reap rich harvests in the Southern ports. The cessation of the war put a 
stop to this lucrative trade ; but it is now hoped that the completion of the Inter- 
colonial Railway to St. John and Quebec will greatly benefit Ilahfax. There is a 
rivalry between St. John and Halifix which resembles that lietween Cliicago and Sfc. 
Louis, and leads to s imil ar journalistic tournaments. St. John claims that she has 



100 Route 20. THE ENVIEONS OF HALIFAX. 

a first-class hotel and a theatre, which Halifax has not ; and the Nova-Scotian city 
answers, in return, that she has the best cricket-club and the champion oarsman of 
America. 

Sir William Penwick Williams, of Kars, Bart., K. C. B., B.C. L., was born at Hali- 
fax in 18U0. After serving in Ceylon, Turkey, and Persia, he instructed the Moslem 
artillery, and fortified the city of Kars. Here ho was besieged by the Russians, under 
Gen. Mouravieff. He defeated the enemy near tlie city, but was forced to surrender 
after a heroic defence of six months, being a sacrifice to British diplomacy. He was 
afterwards Commander of the Forces in Canada. 

Admiral Sir Provo Wallis was born at Halifax in 1791, and was early engaged in 
the great battle between the Cleopatra, 32, and the French Ville de Milan, 46. He 
afterwards served on the Curieux, tlie Gloire, and the Shannon^ to whose command 
he succeeded after the battle with the Chesapeake. 

20. The Environs of Halifax. 

The favorite drive from Halifax is to the Four-Mile House, and along 
the shores of the * Bedford Basin. This noble sheet of water is 5 M. long 
and 1-3 M. wide, with from 8 to 3G fathoms of depth. It is entered by- 
way of the Narrows, a passage 2^-3 M. long and ^ M. wide, leading from 
Halifax Harbor. It is bordered on all sides by bold hills 200-330 ft. in 
heiglit, between which are 10 square miles of secure anchoring-ground. 
The village of Bedford is on the W. shore, and has several summer hotels 
(Bellevue, Bedford, etc.). The steamer Goliah leaves Halifax for Bedford 
at 11 A. M. and 2 p. jr. daily. During the summer the light vessels of the 
Eoy al Halifax Yacht Club are seen in the Basin daily ; and exciting rowing- 
matches sometimes come off near the Four-Mile House. 

Along the shores of the Bedford Basin were the mournful camps and hospitaln of 
the French Armada, in 174G, and 1,300 men were buried there. Their remainc were 
found by subsequent settlers. The first permanent colonies along these shores were 
made by Massachusetts Loyalists in 1784. 

Hammond'' s Plains are 7 M. W. of Bedford, and were settled in 1815 by slaves 
brought away from the shores of Maryland and Virginia by the British fleets. Thi3 
is, like the other villages of freed blacks throughout the ProTince, dirty and dilapi- 
dated to the last degree. To the N. W. is the Pockvwck Lake, 4 M. long, with di- 
versified shores, and abounding in trout. 

" The road to Point Pleasant is a favorite promenade in the long Acadian 
twilights. Midway between the city and the Point lies 'Kissing Bridge,' 
Avliich the Halifax maidens sometimes pass over. Who gathers toll nobody 
knows, but — " 

Point Pleasant projects betAveen the harbor and the N. W. Arm, and is 
covered with pretty groves of evergreen trees, threaded by narrow roads, 
and now being laid out for a public park. The principal fortification is 
Fort Ofjikie, a garrisoned post, whose artillery commands the channel. 
A short distance to the W. is the antiquated structure called the Prince of 
Wales^s Tower, from which fine views are afforded. The Point Pleasant 
Battery is near the water's edge, and is intended to sweep the outer 
passage. 

The Northwest Arm is 4 M. long and ^ M. wide, and is a river-like 
inlet, which runs N. W. from the h^bor to within 2 M. of the Bedford Basin. 



DARTMOUTH. Route 21. 101 

Its shores are high and picturesque, and on the Halifax side are several 
fine mansions, surrounded by ornamental grounds. In the upper part of 
the Arm is Melville Island, where American prisoners were kept during 
the War of 1812. Ferguson's Cove is a picturesque village on the N. W. 
Arm, inhabited chiefly by fishermen and pilots.' 

The steamer Micmac makes regular trips during the summer up the 
N. W. Arm, and to McNdb's Island, which is 3 ]\f.'long, and has a sum- 
mer hotel and some heavy military works. The Mlcmac leaves the South 
Ferry Wharf at 10 a. m. and 12, and 2 and 3 p. m. 

Dartmouth {Acadian House) is situated on the harbor, opposite the city 
of Halifax, to which a steam ferry-boat makes frequent trips. It has sev- 
eral pretty villas belonging to Halifax merchants; and at about ^ M. from 
the village is the spacious and imposing hmldin^ oH\\q Mount Hope Asylum 
for the Irisane, a long, castellated granite building which overlooks the 
harbor. Dartmouth has 4,358 inhabitants and 5 churches, and derives 
prosperity from the working of several foundries and steam-tanneries. It 
is also the seat of the Chebncto Marine Railway. This town Avas founded 
in 1750, but was soon afterwards destroyed, with some of its people, by the 
Indians. In 1784 it was reoccupied by men of Nantucket who preferred 
royalism to republicanism. The Montague Gold-Mlnes are 4 M. from 
Dartmouth, and have yielded in paying quantities. Cow Bay is a few miles 
S. E. of Dartmouth, and is much visited in summer, on account of its fine 
marine scenery and the facilities for bathing. The Dartmouth LaJces com- 
mence within 1 M. of the town, and were formerly a favorite resort of 
sportsmen, but are now nearly fished out. 

21. The Basin of Minas.— Halifax to St. John. 

Halifax to Windsor, see Route 18 (in reverse). 

The steamboat-route from Windsor to St. John is here described. This line ha.s 
been withdrawn, but may be replaced. The Evangeline and other boats cruise on 
the Jiasin, and the description given below may serve for characterizing the various 
ports. ° 

As the steamer moves out from her wharf at Windsor, a pleasant view 
is afforded of the old college town astern, with the farming village of Fal- 
mouth on the 1., and shipbuilding Newport on the r., beyond the mouth of 
the St. Croix River. The shores are high and ridgy, and the mouth of 
the Kennetcook River is passed (on the r.) about 5 M. below Windsor. 
2-3 M. below is Hantsport (1. bank), a thriving marine village opposite 
the mouth of the Cockmigon River. On Horton Bluff (1. bank) is a light- 
house which sustains a powerful fixed white light, visible for 20 M., and 
beyond this point the steamer enters the * Basin of Minas. On the 1. are 
the low ridges of Long Island and Boot Island, rising on the margin of a 
wide and verdant meadoAv. The meadoAv is Grand Pre, the land of 
Evangeline (see Route 22). Mile after mile the fertile plains of Cornwallis 



102 Route PA. CAPE BLOMIDON. 

open on the 1., bounded by the Horton hills and the dark line of the North 
Mt. In advance is the bold and clear-cut outline of Cape Blomidon, 
brooding over the water, and on the r. are the low but well-defined bluffs 
of Chivirie, rich in gypsum and limestone. It is about 22 M. from the 
mouth of the Avon to Parrsboro', and the course of the steamer continu- 
ally approaches Blomidon. 

Cape Blomidon in a vast precipice of red sandstone of the Triassic era, with 

gtroiig marks of volcanic action. " The dark basaltic wall, covered with thick 
woods, the terrace of amygdaloid, with a luxuriant growth of light-green shrubs 
and .^oung trees that rapidly spring up on its rich and nioist surface, the precipice 
cif l;right red sandstone, ahvays clean and frei-h, and contrasting strongly with the 
trap above, .... constitute a combination of forms, and colors equally striking, if 
fccn in the distance from the hills of Horton or Parrsboro', or more nearly from 
t!ic sea or the stony beach at its base. Elon.idon is a scene ncA'er to be forgotten by 
a traveller who has wandered around its shores or clambered on its giddy preci- 
pices." The ca])e is about 670 ft. high, and presents an interesting sight when its 
dark-red sumniit is peering above the wiiite sea-fogs. Sir ^Villiam Lyell, the tmi- 
nent British geologist, made a careful study of the phenomena of this vicinity. 

The ]ndian legend says that Blon.idou was nriade by the divine Glooscap, who 
broke the gieat beaver-dam off this shore and swung its end around into its present 
]iosition. Aft(.'rwards he crossed to the new-made ciipe and strewed its slopes with 
the gems that are found there to-day, carrying thence a set of rare ornaments for 
his ancient and nijstcjrious female companion. The beneficent chief broke away the 
beaver-dam because it was flooding all theCornwallis Valley, and in his conflict with 
the Great Beaver he threw at him huge masses of rock and earth, which are the 
present Five Islands. W. of C//^rg'7mr/ieec/i (Blomidon) the end of the dam swept 
around and became Pleegun (Cape Split). 

As Blomidon is left on the port beam, the steamer hurries across the 
rapid currents of the outlet of the Basin. In front is seen the white vil- 
lage of Parrsboro', backed by the dai-k undulations of the Cobequid Mts. 
Just before reaching Parrsboro' the vessel approaches and passes Par- 
tridf/e Island (on the 1.), a singular insulated hill 250 ft. high, and con- 
nected with the mainland at low tide by a narrow beach. 

Partridge Island was the Pulowecli Munfigoo of the Micmacs, and was a favorite 
location lor legends of Glooscap. On his last great journey from Newfoundland by 
Pictou through Acadia and into the unknown AVest, he built a grand road from 
Fort Oum))eriand to this shore for the use of his weary companions. This miracu- 
lously firmed ridge is now occupied by the post-road to the N. W., and is called by 
the Indians Oivioolcim {the causeway). At Partridge Island Glooscap had his cel- 
ebrated rev(!l with the supernatural Kit-poos-e-ag-unow, the deliverer of all op- 
pressed, who was taken out alive from his mother (slain by a giant), was thrown 
into a well, and, being miraculously preserved there, came forth in due time to fulfil 
his high duty to men. 1'hese marvellous friends went out on the Basin in a stone 
canoe to fish by torchlight, and, after cruising over the dark waters for some time, 
speared a monstrous whale. They tossed him into the canoe " as though he were a 
trout," and made for the shore, where, in their brotherly feast, the whale was en- 
tirely devoured. 

Parrsboro' (two inns) is pi-ettily situated at the mouth of a small river, 
and under the shelter of Partridge Island. It has about 900 inhabitants, 
with three churches, and is engaged in the lumber-trade. The beauty of 
tlie situat'on and the views, together with the sporting facilities in the 
back-country, have made Parrsboro' a pleasure resort of considerable re- 
pute, and the neat hotel called the Summer House is well patronized. This 
is one of the best points from whij^ to enter the fine hunting and fishing 



PARRSBORO'. Route 21. 103 

districts of Cumberland County, and guides and outfits may be secured 
here. Amherst (see page 78) is 36 M. distant, by highways following the 
valleys of the Parrsboro' and Maccau Rivers. 

" Parrsboro' enjoys more than its share of broad, gravelly beach, overhung with 
clifted and woody bluffs. One fresh from the dead walls of a great city would be de- 
liohted with the sylvan shores of Parrsboro'. The beach, with all its breadth, a 
miracle of pebbly beauty, slants steeply to the surf, which is now rolling up in curl- 
ino- clouds of green and white. Here we turn westward into the great bay itself, 
going with a tide that rushes like a mighty river toward a cataract, whirling, boil- 
ing, breaking in half-moons of crispy foam." (L. L. Noble.) 

" Pleasant Parrsboro', with its green hills, neat cottages, and sloping shores laved 
by the sea when the tide is full, but wearing quite a different aspect wheu the tide 
goes out ; for then it is left perched thirty feet high upon a red clay bluff, and the 
fishing-boats which were afloat before are careened upon their beam ends, high and 
dry out of water. The long massive pier at which the steamboat lately landed, 
lifts up its naked bulk of tree-nailed logs, reeking with green ooze and sea-weed ; and 
a hio-h conical island which constitutes the chief feature of the landscape is trans- 
fornied into a bold promontory, connected with the mainland by a huge ridge of 
brick-red clay." (Hallock.) 

Gentlemen who are interested in geological studies will have a rare chance to make 
collections about Parrsboro' and the shores of Minas. The most favorable time is 
when the bluffs have been cracked and scaled by recent frosts ; or just after the close 
of the winter, when much fresh debris is found at the foot of the cliffs. Among the 
minerals on Partridge Island are: analcime, apophylUte, amethyst, agate, apatite, 
calcite (abundant, in yellow crystals), chabazite, chalcedony, cat's-eye, gypsum, 
hematite, heulandite, magnetite, stilbite (very abundant), jasper, cacholong, opal, 
semi-opal, and gold-bearing quartz. About Cape Blomidon are found analcime, 
ao-ate, amethyst, apophyllite. calcite, chalcedony, chabazite-gmelinite, faroelite, 
hematite, magnetite, heulandite, laumouite, fibrous gypsum, malachite, mesolite, 
native copper, natrolite, stilbite, psilomelane, and quartz. Obsidian, malachite, gold, 
and copper are found at Cape d'Or ; jasper and fine quartz crystals, on Spencer's 
Island ; augite, amianthus, pyrites, and wad, at Parrsboro' ; and both at Five Islands 
and Scotsman's Bay there are beautiful specimens of moss agate. At Cornwallis 
is found the rare mineral called Wichtisite (resembling obsidian, in gray and deep 
blue colors), which is only known in one other place on earth, at Wichtis, in Fin- 
laud. The purple and violet quartz, or amethyst, of the Minas shores, is of great 
beauty and value. A Blomidon amethyst is in the crown of France, and it is now 
270 years since the Sieur de Monts carried several large amethysts from Partridge 
Island to Henri IV. of France. These gems are generally found in geodes, or after 
fresh falls of trap-rock. 

Advocate Harbor and Cape cZ' Or. 

A daily stage runs W. from Parrsboro' through grand coast scenery, for 
28 M., passing the hamlets of Fox Harbor and Port Greville, and stop- 
ping at Advocate Harbor. This is a sequestered marine hamlet, devoted 
to shipbuilding and the deep-sea fisheries, and has about 600 inhabitants. 
It is about 60 M. from Amherst, by a road leading across the Cobequid 
Mts. and through Apple River (see page 80). Some of the finest marine 
scenery in the Provinces is in this vicinity. 3-4 M. S. is the immense 
rocky peninsula of * Cape d'Or, almost cut off from the mainland by a deep 
ravine, in whose bottom the salt tides flow. Cape d'Or is 500 ft. high, and 
has recently become noted for its rich copper deposits. Off this point there 
is a heavy rip on the flood-tide, which flows with a velocity of 6 knots an 
hour, and rises 33 - 39 ft. 8 M. W. of Advocate Harbor, and visible across 



104 Route 21. BASIN OF MINAS. 

the open bay, is * Cape Chignecto, a wonderful headland of rock, 730 - 800 
ft. high, running down sheer into the deep waters. This mountain-prom- 
ontory marks the division of the currents of the Minas and Chignecto 
Channels. 

Cape d'Or is sometimes called Cap Dore on the ancient maps, and received its 
name on account of the copper ore which was found here by the early French ex- 
plorers, and was supposed to be gold. The Acadians afterwards opened mines here, 
and the name, Les Mines, originally applied to a part of this shore, was given to the 
noble salt-water lake to the E. Minas is either an English modification or the 
Spanish equivalent thereof Cape d'Or was granted to the Duke of Chandos many 
years ago, but he did not continue the mining operations. 



After leaving Parrsboro' the steamer runs W. through the passage be- 
tween Cape Blomidon and Cape Sharp, which is 3^ M. wide, and is swept 
by the tide at the rate of 6 - 8 knots an hour. On the r. the ravines of 
Diligent River and Fox River break the iron-bound coasts of Cumberland 
County; and on the 1. is a remarkable promontory, 7 M. long and 1 M. 
wide, with an altitude of 400 feet, running AV. from Blomidon between 
the channel and the semicircular bight of Scotsman's Bay. Cnpe Split 
is the end of this sea-dividing mountain, bej'ond which the S. shores 
fall suddenly away, and the steamer enters the Minas Channel. 12 M. 
beyond Cape Split, Spencer's Island and Cape Spencer are passed on the 
N., beyond Avhich are the massive cliffs of Cape d'Or. On the 1. are the 
unvarying ridges of the North Mt., with obscure fishing-hamlets along 
the shore. To the N. the frowning mass of Cape Chignecto is seen ; and 
the course passes within sight of the lofty and lonely rock of Isle Haute, 
which is 7 M. from the nearest shore. It is 1^ M. long and 350 ft. high, 
and is exactly intersected by the parallel of 65" W. from Greenwich. 

The steamer now passes down over the open waters of the Bay of Fundy. 
St John is about 62 nautical miles from Isle Haute, in a straight line, and 
is a little N. of W. from that point, but the exigencies of navigation re- 
quire a course considerably longer and more southerly. This portion of 
the route is usually traversed at night, and soon after passing the powerful 
first-class red revolving-light on Cape Spencer {li^ew Brunswick), the steamer 
runs in by the Partridge-Island light, and enters the harbor of St. John 
about the break of da}'. 

St. John, see page 15. 

The Basin of Minas. 

The steamer Evangeline leaves Parrsboro' daily, for the villages on the N. and 
E. shores of the Basiu of Minas. As the times of her departure are very irregular, 
owing to the necessity of following the tide, and her landings vary according to cir- 
cumstances, the following account relates to the line of the coast rather than to her 
route. She is announced to call at Parrsboro', Londonderry, Maitland, Kingsport, 
Summerville, and Windsor. 

Soon after leaving Parrsboro', Frazer's Head is, passed on the 1., with 
its cliffs elevated nearly 400 feet above the water. About 15 M. E. of 



BASIN OF MINAS. Route 21. 105 

Parrsboro' are the remarkable insulated peaks of the *Five Islands, the 
chief of which is 350 ft. high, rising from the Avaters of the Basin. On the 
adjacent shore is the village of Five Islands, occupying a very picturesque 
position, and containing 600 inhabitants. In this vicinity are found iron, 
copper, and plumbago, and white-lead is extracted in considerable quan- 
tities from minerals mined among the hills. Marble was formerly produced 
here, but the quarries are now abandoned. The massive ridge variously 
known as Mt. Gerrish, St. Peter's Mt., and Eed Head, looms over the vil- 
lage to a height of 500 ft., having a singularly bold and alpine character 
for so small an elevation. On its lower slopes are found pockets containing 
fine barytes, of which large quantities are sent to the United States. A 
mass of over 150 pounds' weight was sent from this place to the Paris Ex- 
position of 1867. A few miles W. of the village are the falls on the North 
River, which are 90 ft. high ; and to the N. is the Avild and picturesque 
scenery of the Cobequid Mts. Stages run from Londonderry Station to 
Five Islands, which is indeed one of the loveliest spots in Canada. The 
sea-beach is magnificent, aiid the facilities for bathing and boating ex- 
cellent. Broderick's Hotel commands the finest part of the shore. 

" Before them lay the outlines of Five Islands, rising beautifully out of the water 

between them and the mainland The two more distant were rounded and 

well wooded ; the third, which was midway among the group, had lofty, precipitous 
sides, and the summit was dome-shaped; the fourth was like a table, rising with 
perpendicular sides to the height of 200 ft. , with a flat, level surface above, which 
was all overgrown with forest trees. The last, and nearest of the group, was by far 
the most singular. It was a bare rock which rose irregularly from the sea, termi- 
nating at one end in a peak which rose about 200 ft. in the air It resembled, 

more than anything else, a vast cathedral rising out of the sea, the chief mass of the 
rock corresponding with the main part of the cathedral, while the tower and spire 
were there in all their majesty. For this cause the rock has received the name of 

Pinnacle Island At its base they saw the white foam of breaking surf; while 

far on high around its lofty, tempest-beaten summit, they saw myriads of sea-gulls. 
Gathering in great white clouds about this place, they sported and chased one an- 
other ; they screamed and uttered their shrill yells, which sounded afar over the 
sea." (DeMjxle.) 

10 M. beyond these islands the steamer passes the loftv and far-project- 
ing peninsula of Economy'^ Point, and enters the Cobequid Bay (which 
ascends to Truro, a distance of 36 M.). After touching at Londonderry, 
on the N. shore, the steamer crosses the bay to Maitland (two inns), a 
busy and prosperous shipbuilding village at the mouth of the Shubenacadie 
River (see page 82). 

The S. shore of the Basin of Minas is lined with bluffs 100-180 ft. high, 
but is far less imposing than the N. shore. Noel is about 15 M. W. of 
Maitland, and is situated on a pretty little bay between Noel Head and 
Burnt-Coat Head. It has 300 inhabitants, and produces the mineral called 
terra alba, used in bleaching cottons. It is not found elsewhere in Amer- 
ica. After leaving Noel Bay and passing the lighthouse on Burnt-Coat 

1 Economy is derived from the Indian name Kenomee, which was applied to the same 
place, and means " Sandy Point." 

5* 



106 Route 21. BASIN OF MINAS. 

Head, the trend of the coast is followed to the S. W. for about 20 M. to 
Walton, a village of 600 inhabitants, at the mouth of the La Tete Eiver. 
Many thousand tons of gypsum and plaster of Paris (calcined gj^psum) are 
annually shipped from this port to the United States. Immense quantities 
are exported also from the coasts of Chivirie, which extend from Walton 
S. W. to the mouth of the Avon Eiver. The whole back country is com- 
posed of limestone soil and gj^psum-beds, whose mining and shipment 
form an industry of increasing importance. Beyond the Chivirie coast the 
steamer ascends the Avon River to Windsor. 

The Basin of Minas was the favorite home of Glooscap, the Hiawatha of the Mic- 
macs, whose traditions describe him as an envoy from the Great Spirit, who had the 
form and habits of humanity, bvit was exalted above all peril and sickness and death. 
He dwelt apart and above, in a great wigwam, and was attended hy an old woman 
and a beautiful youth, and " was never very far from any one of them," who re- 
ceived his counsels. His power was unbounded and supernatural, and was wielded 
against the enchantments of the magicians, while his wisdom taught the Indians 
how to hunt and fish, to heal diseases, and to build wigwams and canoes. He 
named the constellations in the heavens, and many of the chief points on the Acadian 
shores. The Basin of Minas was his beaver-pond ; Cape Split was the bulwark of 
the dam ; and Spencer's Island is his overturned kettle. He controlled the ele- 
ments, and by his magic wand led the caribou and the bear to his throne. The 
allied powers of evil advanced with immense hosts to overthrow his great wigwam 
and break his power ; but he extinguished their camp-fires by night and summoned 
the spirits of the frost, by whose endeavors the land was visited by an intense cold, 
and the hostile armies were frozen in the forest. On the approach of the English he 
turned his huge hunting-dogs into stone and then passed away ; but will return 
again, right Spencer's Island, call the dogs to life, and once more dispense his royal 
hospitality on the Minas shores. 

" Now the ways of beasts and men waxed evil, and they greatlj^ vexed Glooscap, 
and at length he could no longer endure them ; and he made a rich feast by the 
shore of the great lake (Minas). All the beasts came to it ; and when the feast was 
over, he got into a big canoe, he and his uncle, the Great Turtle, and they went 
away over the big lake, and the beasts looked after them till they saw them no 
more. And after they ceased to see them, they still heard their voices as they sang, 
but the sounds grew fainter and fainter in the distance, and at last they wholly died 
away ; and then deep silence fell on them all, and a great marvel came to pass, 
and the beasts who had till now spoken but one language no longer were able to 
understand each other, and they all fled away, each his own way, and never again 
have they met together in council. Until the day when Glooscap shall return to 
restore the Golden Age, and make men and animals dwell once more together in 
amity and peace, all Nature mourns. The tradition states that on his departure 
from Acadia the great snowy owl retired to the deep forests to return no more until 
he could come to welcome Glooscap ; and in those sylvan depths the owls, even yet, 
repeat to the night, ' Koo koo skoos ! Koo koo skoos ! ' which is to say, in the In- 
dian tongue, ' 0, I am sorry ! 0, 1 am sorry ! ' And the loons, who had been the 
huntsmen of Glooscap, go restlessly up and down through the world, seeking vainly 
for their master, whom they cannot find, and wailing sadly because they find him 
not." 




THE BASIN OF MINA8 



THE OLD ACADLIN LAND. 



wm 




ido'i 



^/V or Mryj^^- 




THE LAND OF EVANGELINE. Route 22. 107 

22. The Land of Evangeline. 

This beautiful and deeply interesting district is visited with the greatest 
ease from the academic town of Wolfville ( Village Hotel ; Acadia ; Ameri- 
can), which is 127 M. from St. John and 63 M, from Halifax (by Route 18), 
on an arm of the Basin of Minas, and engaged in sbipbuilding and fann- 
ing. It has 800 inhabitants, 5 churches, Acadia Seminar}'- (5 teachers and 
70 pupils), and the Ilorton Academy (4 teachers, 60 students). The Acadia 
College is a Baptist institution, with 8 professors, 60 stndcnts, and 222 
alumni in 1883. The college buildings occupy a fine situation on a hill 
which overlooks " those meadows on the Basin of Minas which Mr. Long- 
fellow has made more sadly poetical than any other spot on the Western 
Continent." The * view from the belfry of the college is the most beau- 
tiful in this vicinity, or even, perhaps, in the Maritime Provinces. Far 
across the CornAvallis Valley to the N. is the North Mt., which terminates, 
15 M. awa}^ (21 M. by road), in the majestic bluff of Cape Blomidon, 
dropping into the Basin of Minas. To the N. E. is the "great meadow" 
which gave name and site to the village of Grand Pre. Steamboats run 
on the Basin of Minas in summer, connecting AVoifville with the other 
ports, and giving a very delightful journey (see page 101). 

A good road leads E. (in 3 M.) from Wolfville to Lower Ilorton, a scat- 
tei'ed hamlet among the hills. By passing down from this point to the 
meadows just beyond the railway-station of Grand Pre, the traveller 
reaches the site of the ancient village. Standing on the platform of the 
station, he sees a large tree at the corner of the field on the left front. 
Near that point are the faint remains of tlie foundations of the Acadian 
church. The tradition of the countrj'-side claims that the aged willow- 
tree near bj' grows on the site of the shop of Basil the Blacksmith, and 
that cinders have been dug up at its foot. The destruction efifected by 
the British troops was complete, and there are now no relics of the an- 
cient settlement, except the gnarled and knotty trees of the orchards, the 
lines of Avillows along the old roads, and the sunken hollows which indi- 
cate the sites of farmer cellars. Near the shore is shown the place where 
the exiles were put on shipboai'd. A road leads across the rich diked 
marsh in 2-3 M. to Long Island, a slight elevation fronting on the Basm 
of Minas, and on which dwells a farming population of about 120 persons. 
To the N. E. is the mouth of the Gaspereaux River, and on the W. the 
Cornwallis River is discharged. The early Acadians reclaimed these rich 
meadows from the sweep of the tides by building light dikes to turn the 
water. There were 2,100 acres of this gained land in their Gi-and Prd, 
but the successive advancing of other lines of aggression has driven back 
the sea from a much larger area, all of which is very pi'oductive and val- 
uable. In 1810 the broad meadow between Grand Pr6 and Wolfville was 
enclosed by new dikes and added to the reclaimed domain. 



108 JiovU22. GRAND VV.t. 

Noblfs'H MdHHachuKCittH regiment was cantoned at Orand Vrk In tho 'winter of 
1710 7. J>iJrin« (I. Iieavy Hiiow-Mtorin, hclorc dawn oti Feh. IJ, the tf)WM •wa.s at- 
tacked by y4<! JtcmcIi troojjH, arranged in .10 divihioiiH, and ronmuuided by (Joulon 
de VillifjrH. 'I'lie Hcml/inclH were vii^ilant, and K'''V'! tlie alarm aw nam as the luihtilo 
cohinniH w(!re Keen over the )<»tty Hnow-ilrittH ; hut tlie aHhailanlH (ianlicd in fearlcHHly 
and Hoon earri(!d tlie htrfjnj^e.nt of the liarrackw. (Jol. Nf)hl(! waH Hlain wliilo Jigliting 
In \\\h Hliirt. i'<'>\ AnierieanH were )<iilei| and wouniled and fJi) woe made prifonctF; 
21 of tlie attacking Jiarty were Idlied and wounded. Jn the morning 8.'j0 of the 
MaHHaehUHettH men were concentrated in a Htone l)uiiding, and lougiit wifli niucli 
bravery, tin; comh.'i.t liciug waited Jrorn houne to Iiouk! i.hrongh the htreetK. Jiy 
noon their aiiiiiiMnilion wa.s exp< mii d, and they KiuTcndcred to tlie Frcr:cli, being 
paroled and ulluwcd to inarch out with the lionorH of war. A corrvivi.'i) dini.er waH 
then enjoyed hy tho oflicerH of the vvliiioni liontil(« forccH, and the Americantj were 
went to AnnapoliH inider ati Acadian guard, wliile the Fnricli koou afterward retired 
to iJeani)aH,^in, liearing tlieir cajitured artilhiry and lonr htandH of colorH whidi had 
l)e(;n taken in the l>atti(!. 

'I'lio Mhorert of tlie IJanin of MinaH were nettled in the early part of the 17th rentury 
by iiiiiiiixiMntH from l>a lloclu lie, f^i;iiitong(!, and J'oiton. They f<oon erccUd dikes 
by which tla; tid(! waH kept oil' from tlie n.eadowH, and from tlicK; rich ndained 
landH they gathered grea,t cropH. H<'Veral cargocH of grcin were exported to Jio.-ton 
every yc,ar, and the rettlem(!iit noon bccime large and i)roKi:erouH. 'J he IndiaiiH 
regarded thcHc new iieighhorH with alicction, and livdl on terms of pcrlcct jicace 
■with them. During the war.s between I'Vance and (inrt I'.iitjtin, the AcadiaiiH were 
Htrongly patiiolic, and took tiji am H in the cai:K! of tli<ir native l;iiid. Jnlcn.'cly 
ditvoted to th(! Roman Oathoiic Clinn h, and (oiipidering tlicfc warn an in tin! nature 
f)f cruHaiJcH, they fought valiantly ai;d well. 

IJut when Nova, .Mcotia, waa finally cedi d to Crrat Ihil.-iin (in ITi'!), their poMtion 
becaiiK! very awkward and p;;inriil. Many of tlidii refiaed to ti.ke the oath of alle- 
giance;, and for others a. moijiiiid formula, wan fran cd. The cmiiMuieH of the KreiKdi 
power at Loui.shonrg and (,ii'.( hec (ircnlated an.oiig lliiiii and n ainlained their loy- 
alty to li'ranro at a lever heat, while tlu ir jiriolH acted contimally on the .same 
policy, and kept nji the hostilily to the coi:<]i;eiorH. 'Ihe llritihh rrovincial govern- 
ment waH lo(a.t(;d at AnnajioliH, and though il.H lawH were; iniid and clcn cnt, it could 
not command r(;fpc( t on account of ilH plly^i(al wfakncKK. Under thcKe circum- 
Htanc(M, liuiidredH of tin; AciKliims joined the I'rcnch armicK durir.g every war be- 
tween tho two pow( rH, and jirovdl dangeroiiH foenien, on account of tlwir knowledge 
of tlio land. iSiiliih helller,^ v\(r<; nnwillirg to locale among llie.'c jieojile on accoiiut 
of their hohtility, and the faircKt landH of the I'roviiKC! were tliiiH held by an alien 
and iioKlilc! ))opulMlion. The great conflict between England and France in the New 
World waH Ht.ill in full conrie,aiid the Inltcr jiowcr wan in poKKSfion of the Canadas. 
The majr)ril.y of th<; Ae;i(|i;iiiH were donhtlchH jieaceful and hone.'t, otcnpicd only 
with tin ir local aH'i.irK.; but home tif them were hostile and tronblcKime, and tlic 
iinonutlouH iioKition of tlicfo alien nuhje* ts was a. source of incc ^.'fint danger to the 
KngliHli |)ower. It waH therefore (Iclerniined in the council at Halifax, in JTriH, that 
th<;y nniHt either take an nnconditioi.al oath of allegi.'incc to (jical, l!rit;:in or leave 
the country, DcpnlalionH were calUd in fiom all IIk! Krench Kcttlen.ents, and the 
lill,eriialiv(;H were cUarlyKt forth lielcre them. Almost nnanimouhl.v they relu;ed 
to take the oath, |irelerring ((lay n.-iid) ixih; and coiifiKalion tct Huch an act, and 
Keen.ing to regard their neutrality of the jiast 15 jcarn a,H having become a vt.'ilcd 
right. Jt KcniH (iH if di)ilnmacy ami argument were tried to their ntnioKt limit upon 
thcHo unyielding reciinant.M, and it then became ncccHHary for tin? honor anti naicty 
of tin; Trovinee, to re.'orl, to .sterner ii,(;aMireK. It wan resolved that the wliole Aca- 
dian p(;o)il(i Hhoiild fe liaiii.'-'hed to Ihe tonthern American eolonicH, and that their 
eHla,(,(;H a.nd biiilding.s, cattle an<l vc^-mIh, nhould be dcclareil I'orl'eiird to Ihe drown. 

The AeadiaiiH were taken by HiirpriKc. A I'.ritinli d< tachn;ent and licet dc tioycd 
all tho village,'<, farma, and chnrcheH, on the? Ohignec to basin and the IVtilcodiac 
Jlivei-, HW( c'ping nji many jiriHonerH and ireetingwjth hoiik; Hharj) fighling. JVlone- 
icjii destroyed l^la iliac, Kc mslicg, and other towiiH on tlie (lulf coast ; Murray gath- 
ered np thc> people alien, t Windsor and to the K, ; and ll.vndfield put the- I'K nch 
Anna|ioli(,'in,M on slii|)ho,")il, c-xeejit a. few who esciiped into the woods. Wii^dow 
collected I ,U!J.'j jicrsonH at (irand j'rcj and embarked them, and hnrii((l IZrif) houses, 
270 baTUK, and 11 n.ills. (Winslow was a MaKachusctIs oflicer. and '2().>caTS later 
his own fan ily wan driven into exile for Uoslility to America.) The people of Grand 
I'r^ were scut to North Carolina, Virgirilfi, and Maryland. 



GRAND rUE. Roidc2^. lOD 

" While wo SCO plaiuly tlint Enp;I;i.nd could never really control this Trovince 
while thoy nMniiincil in it, nil our iiH>lin52:H of hunmnity are alfected by the removal 

itself, and .slill more by the seventy oftiie attendant eireuiusta.nees They were 

the victiins ()ffj;rea,t error on their own iiart, a,nd of delusive views that lalse friends 
lia,il instilled into tiieir minds, and the impulses of national ambiliou and Jealousy 
(ii-eci)>it;i!,ed tlu-ir file. It is, however, some ('(insolation to know that very many of 
tlu' exiles rctiUMied within a. few vtM.r.s to their native laud, and th(iU!j;h not r(>stored 
lo their native firms, tli(>y beeanie an in((^!J;ral and resiuieted portion of our poitula- 
tion, (lisplMyiufi;, under all changes, those simple virtues that they had inherited, — 
the same modest, lunnble, and p(>ac(>abl(i disjiositiou , that had been tiieir early attri- 
butes." (Muiinooii.) (See also (Ii.ark, Cuio'/zctoook, and 'ruAcADn',.) 

In 17(10 a, lar.L!;*! colony of fanulies from (lonueelicut, in a, lle(>t of 22 V(\ssels con- 
voyed by a man-of-war, a,rrive<l at (irand I'ri'- and oeeupied the deserlnd farms. 
" They found (!() ox-earts and .as many yok(>s, which the uufortunab; KnMich had 
used in convoy ins their ba{;'sajj,'c to tlie "vessels that carried them away from tlio 
C(mutry ; and' at the skirts of the forest. hca,ps of the bones of sluvi> and horned cat- 
tle, that, dcs(!rled by tiieir owners, had perished in wint(>r from the lack (if food. 
'L'hey also met witli !i few stra|!;,t;-linjj; families of Acadiaiis who had escaped from the 
serntinizinij; search of the soldiers at the removal of their eouutrvnuMi, and who, 
afraid of slia,riu.u; the same fa.te, had not vcuturcHl to till the land, or to appear in 
th(M)p(Mi country. They had ea,t(Mi no bnvid for live y(\'U's, and had subsisted on 
ve[,'etablos, llsh, and the'more hardy iiart of the cattle that had survived the sever- 
ity of th(! first winter of their abandoinnent." (IIai.uiurton.) 

" This is the forest primeval. 'The mnnDurinp; pines nnd tlie hemlocks, 
Hoarded with moss, and iu f>;armeuts }i;reeii, indistinct in the twilight, 
Stand lik(^ Druids of eld, with voices sad and iirophetie, 
Stand like harpers hoar, with beards that r(\st on their bosoms. 
Loud from its rocky caverns, the deep-voiced nei^hborin};' ocean 
Speaks, and in accents disconsolate a,nswers the wail of the forest. 

" This is the forc^st ])rinieval ; but where are tlu^ hearts that h(\iiea.th it 

Leaped like tb.e roc, wIkmi he hears iu the woodland t\w voice of tho huntsman? 
Where is the thatch-roofed village, the home of Acadia.u farmers, — 
Men whose liv(\s p;liil(>d on like rivers tli.at wa.t(M* the woodland.'^, 
DarkeiiiMl by shadows ofciirth, but ri'llccliuj;' an im;if;"e of heaven ? 
\Va.ste ar(^ those (ilcasant farms, and the farmers (urcver dcjiarted ! 
Scattered lik(! dust and leaves, when the nni;hty blasts of OctolKU' 
Seize them, and whirl them aloft, and sprinkle tluan fir o'er tli(^ ocean. 
Naught but tradition remains of the beautiful villagH! of Grand Pr»i. 

" Iu th(! Acadian land, on the shores of th(\ l?asin of Minas, 
Distant, secluded, still, tlu! little village of (Irand l'ri'< 
Ija.y in i\w, fruitful valUw- Vast m(>adows stretched to the eastward, 
Giving the village its name, JUid |ia,sture to Hocks wil-hout number. 
Bikes, that the hands of tlu! farmers had raised with Labor incessant, 
Shut out the turbulent tides; but at certain seasons the Ilood-gates ' 

Opened, and welcomed the sea. to w.ander at will o'er the nuMidows. 
West and south th(M'e wmw tic^lds of Ihix, and oi'chards and corn-li(0(ia 
Spreading afar and iinfeneed o'er tli(\ plain; .and .away to tlu^ northward 
iJlomidon ros(>, iuid the forests old, .and aloft on the mounliiins 
Sead'ogs |)itehed tlaar tents, and mists from the mighty Atlanti(5 
Looked on the ha])py valley, but ne'er from their station descended. 
There, in the midst of its firms, re])oseil the Acadian village. 
Strongly built were the bouses, with fr.imes of oak and of chestnut, 
Such as the peas.ints of Noi'mandy bnilt in the reign (if the IIeiiri(>s. 
Thatched wia-e i\u'. rool's, with dormer-windows ; and gables projecting 
Over tho basement below iirotected and shaded the doorway. 
There in tho traiKiuil evenings of stniimcr, when brightly the snnsot 
Lighted the villag(^ street, and gilded th(> vanes on the cbimiieyH, 
Matrons and maidens sat iu snow-white c.'i|is and in kirtles 
Scarlet and blue and green, with distaH's spinning the golden 
Flax for the gossiping looms, Whose noi.sy shuttles within doora 
Miuj^led their aouiid with the whir of tho wheels and the aonga of the maidens. 



110 R(Mte22. GRAND PRE. 

Solemnly down the street came the parish priest, and the children 
Paused in their play to kiss the hand he extended to bless them. 
Reverend walked he among them ; and up rose matrons and maidens, 
Hailing his slow approach with words of affectionate welc^ome. 
Then came the lal>orers lioiiie from tlie field, and serenely the sun sank 
Down to Ids rest, and twilight prevailed. Anon from the belfry 
Softly the Angclus sounded, and over the roofs of the village 
Columns of pale blue smoke, like clouds of incense ascending. 
Rose from a hundred hearths, the homes of peace and contentment. 
Thus dwelt together in love these simple Acadian farmers, — 
Dwelt in tlie love of God and of man. Alike were they free from 
Fear, that reigns with the tyrant, and envy, the vice of republics. 
Neither locks had they to their doors, nor T)ars to tlicir windows ; 
But their dwellings were open as day and the hearts of the owners ; 
There the richest was poor, and the poorest lived in abundance." 

The poet then describes *' the gentle Evangehne, the pride of the vil- 
lage." 

" Fair was slic to behold, that maiden of seventeen summers, 

Black were her eyes as the berry thut grows on tlie thorn by the wayside, 
Black, yet how softly they glcunied iHiieath the brown shiide of her tresses ! 
Sweet was her Ijreath as the lu'e.itli of kine tluit feed in the meadows. 
When in the harvest boat she bore to the reajjcrs at noontide 
Flagons of home-browed ale, ah ! fair in sooth was the maiden. 
Fairer was she when, on Sunday morn, wliile the bell from its turret 
Sprinkled with holy sounds the air, as the jiriest with his hyssop 
Sprinkl(,-s the congregation, and scatters blessings wynm them. 
Down the long street she passed, with lier cliai)let of Inads and her missal, 
Weai'ing li<;r Norman cap, and licr kirtle of blue, and the ear-rings, — • 
Brought^ in the olden time from France, and since, as an licirloom, 
Handed down from mother to child, thi'ough long generations. 
But a celestial brightness — a more ethereal beauty — 
Shone on her face and encircled her foiin, when, after confession, 
Homeward serenely she walked, with God-s benediction iijion her. 
When she had passed, it seemed like the ceasing of exquisite music." 

After a beautiful description of the peaceful social life of the Acadians, 

and the betrothal of Evangeline, the poet tells of the arrival of the English 

fleet, the convocation of the people, the royal mandate, the destruction of 

Grand Prd, and the weary exile of the villagers. 

" So passed the morning away. And lo ! with a summons sonorous 
Sounded the bell from its tower, and over the meadow a drum beat. 
Thronged erelong was the church with men. Without, in the churchyard, 
Waited the women. Tliey stood by the graves, and hung on the headstones 
Garlands of autumn-leaves and evergreens fi'esh from the forest. 
Then came the guard from the ships, and marching proudly among them 
Entered the sacred portal. AV'ith loud and dissonant clangor 
Eclioed the sound of tlieir brazen drums from ceiling and casement, — 
Echo(Hl a moment only, and slowly the ponderous portal 
Closed, and in silence the crowd awaited the will of the soldiers. 
Then uprose their commander, and spake from the steps of the altar, 
Holding aloft in his hands, with its seals, the royal connnission. 
' Ye are convened this day,' he said, ' by his Majesty's orders. 
Clement and kind has he been ; but how have you answered his kindness, 
Let your own hearts reply ! To my natiu-al make and my temper 
Painful the task is I do, which to you I know must be grievous. 
Yet must I bow and oltey, and deliver the will of our monarch ; 
Namely, that all your lands, and dwellings, and cattle of all kinds 
Forfeited l)e to tlie crown ; and that you yourselves from this province 
Be transported to other lands. God grant you may dwell there 
Ever as faithful suVyects, a Ijappy and peaceable people ! 
Prisoners now I declare you ; for swch is his Majesty's pleasure.' 



GRAND PRE. Route '^2. Ill 

There disorder prevailed, and the tumult and stir of embarking. 

Busily plied the freighted boats ; aud in the confusion 

Wives were torn from their husbands, aud mothers, too late, saw their children 

Left on the land, extending their arms, with wildest entreaties. 

Suddenly rose from the south a light, as in autumn the hlood-red 

Moon climbs the crystal walls of heaven, and o"er the horizon 

Titan-like stretches its hiiudred hands upon mountain anil meadow, 

Seizing the rocks and the rivers, and piling huge shadows together. 

Broader and ever broader it gleamed on the roots of the village, 

Gleamed on the sky and the sea, and the ships that lay in the roadstead. 

Columns of shining smoke uprose, and flashes of flame were 

Thrust through their folds and withdrawn, like the quivering hands of a martyr. 

Then as the wind seized the gleeds aud the burning thatch, and uplifting 

Whirled them aloft through the air, at once from a hundred house-tops ' 

Started the sheeted smoke, with flashes of flame intermingled. 

Many a weary year had passed since the burning of Grand Pr6, 

When on the filling tide the freighted vessels departed, 

Beiu-ing a nation, with all its household gods, into exile, 

Exile without an end, aud without an example in story. 

Ear asun<ler, on separate coasts, the Acadians landed ; 

Scattered were they, like flakes of snow, when the wind from the northeast 

Strikes aslant through the fogs that darken the Banks of Newfoundland. 

Friendless, homeless, hopeless, they wandered from city to city, 

From the cold lakes of the North to sultry Southern savannas,— 

From the bleak shores of the sea to the lands where the Father of Waters 

Seizes the hills in his hands, and drags them down to the ocean, 

Deep in their sands to bury the scattered bones of the mammoth. 

Friends they sought and homes ; and many, despairing, heart-broken, 

Asked of the earth but a grave, and no longer a friend or a fireside. 

Written their history stands on tablets of stone in the churchyards." 

Longfellow's Evangeline. 

'' Much as we may admire the various bays and lakes, the inlets, promontories 
and straits, the mountains and woodlands of this rarely visited corner of creation — 
and, compared with it, we can boast of no coast scenery so beautiful —the vallevof 
Grand Pre transcends all the rest in the Province. Only our valley of W^ omin<r 
as an inland picture, may match it, both in beauty and tradition. One had'its Ger- 
trude, the other its Evangeline. " (Cozzens. ) 

"Beyond is a lofty aud extended chain of hills, presenting avast chasm appar- 
ently burst out by the waters of 19 rivers that empty into the Basin of Minas and here 
escape into the Bay of Fundy. The variety and extent of this prospect, the beauti- 
ful verdant vale of the Gaspereaux ; the extended township of Ilorton interspersed 
with groves ot wood and cultured fields, and the cloud-capped summit of the lofty 
cape that terminates the chain of the North Mt., form an assemblage of objects 
rarely united with so striking an effect." 

" It would be difficult to point out another landscape at all equal to that which is 
beheld trom the hill that overlooks the site of the ancient villai'e of Minas On 
either hand extend undulating hills richly cultivated, and intermingled with farm- 
houses ixnd orchards. From the base of these highlands extend the alluvial mead- 
ows which add so much to the appearance and wealth of Ilorton. The Grand 
Prairie is skirted by Boot and Long Lslands, whose fertile and well-tilled fields are 
sheltered from the north by evergreen forests of dark foliage. Beyond are the wide 
expanse ot waters of the Basin of Minas, the lower part of CornwaUis, and the isles 
and blue highlands of the opposite shores. The charm of this prospect consists in 
the unusual combination of hill, dale, woods, aud cultivated fields; in the calm 
beauty ot agricultural scenery; and in the romantic wilduess of the distant forests. 
During the summer and autumnal months immense herds of cattle are seen quietly 
cropping the herbage of the Grand Prairie ; while numerous vessels plying on the 
Basin convey a pleasing evidence of the prosperity aud resources of this fertUe dis- 
trict." (Haliburton.) 



112 Route 23. ST. MARY'S BAY. 

23. Annapolis Royal to Clare and Yarmouth. — The Tus- 

ket Lakes. 



,. ^ --.- , , and runs from 

Digby to Yarmouth, and is being built between Digbv and Annapolis. 

Stations. — Digby to Jordantown, 4 M. ; Bloomficld, 9; Nortli Range, 11 
Plympton, 14 ; Port Gilbert, 16 ,: ^yeymoutll, 22; Belliveau, 26; Church Point, 30 
Little Brook, 32; Saulnierville, 34; Meteghan, 37; Hectanooga, 46 ; Norwood, 49 
Lake Jessie, 51 ; Brazil, 54 ; Green Cove, 57 ; Ohio, 60 ; IIebron762 ; Yarmouth, 67. 

We add also the distances on the old highway. 

Itinerary. — Annapolis Royal; Clementsport, S.^ M. ; Tictoria Bridge, 13i; 
Smith's Cove, 16; Digby, 20^ ; St. Marv^s Bav, 27i ; 'Weymouth Road, 32; Wey- 
mouth Bridge, 38 ; Belliveau Cove, 43 ; Clare, 50 ; Mcteghan Cove, 59; Cheticamp, 
63 ; Bear River, 74 ; Y'armouth Lakes, 81 ; I'armouth, 90. 

The railTvar lies farther inland than the highway, traversing a com- 
paratively ne-\\' country, where beautiful lakes and ponds abound on every 
side. The fare from Yarmouth to "Weymouth is $1.65; to Digby, $2.45; 
to Annapolis, $3; to St. John, $3.50; to Halifax, $6.50; to Boston (lim- 
ited), $7. Annapolis Royal to Digby, see pages 84. 85 (reversed). 

On leaving Digby the line runs S. "\Y., traversing the farming set- 
tlement of MarshalUown, and crosses the isthmus between the An- 
napolis Basin and St. Mary's Bay, a distance of about 7 M. Thence- 
forward, for over 30 M., the highway lies near the beautiful * St. Mary's 
Bay, which is about 35 M. long, with a width of from 3 to 10 M. On the 
opposite shore are the highlands of Digby Neck (see Route 24), a continu- 
ation of the North Mt. range. On this shore a wide belt of level land has 
been left between the receding range of the South Mt. (or Blue Mts.) and 
the bay, and tlie water-front is occupied by numerous farms. 

In St. Mary's Baj' the fleet of the Sieur de Monts lay for two weeks, in 1604, while 
the shores were being explored by boat's-crews. The mariners were greatly rejoiced 
in finding what they supposed to be valuable deposits of iron and silver. The 
Parisian priest Aubry was lost on one of these excursions, and roamed through the 
■woods for 16 days, eating nothing but berries, until another vessel took him ofiF. 
The name Bate de Ste. Marie was given by Champlaia. 

Brighton is at the head of the bay, and is a pleasant agricultm-al village 
with a small inn. The hamlets of Barton (or Specht's Cove) and GilberVs 
Cove are soon passed, and the stage enters the pretty village of Weymouth 
(two inns), a seaport which builds some handsome vessels, and has a snug 
little trade with the United States and the West Indies. It is at the mouth 
of the Sissiboo River, on whose opposite shore is the Acadian hamlet of 
New Edinburgh. Across St. Mary's Bay is the maritime villnge of Sandy 
Cove. 

The line now ascends the r. bank of the Sissiboo River to Weymouth 
Bridge (Jones's Hotel), a maritime village of about the same size as Wey- 
mouth. It is 4 M. from the mouth of the river; and 2-3 M. to the E. 
are the Sissiboo Falls. The shore of St. Mary's Bay is regained at Belli- 
veau Cove (small inn), an Acadian hamlet chiefly devoted to agriculture 



CLARE. Route 23. 113 

and shipbuilding. From this point down to Beaver Eiver, and beyond 
through the Tusket and Pubnico regions, the shore is occupied by a range 
of hamlets which are inhabited by the descendants of the old Acadian- 
French. 

The Clare Settlements were founded about 1763 by the descendants of the 
Acadians who had been exiled to New England. Aftei* the conquest of Canada these 
unfortunate wanderers were suffered to return to Nova Scotia, but they found their 
former domains about the Basin of Minas alreadj' occupied bj^ the New-Englanders. 
So they removed to the less fertile but still pleasant shores of Clare, and founded new 
homes, alternating their farm labors with fishing-voyages on St. Mary's Bay or the 
outer sea. This little commonwealth of 4 - 5,000 people was for many years governed 
and directed by "the amiable and venerated Abbe Segoigne,"a patrician priest who 
had fled from France during the Revolution of 1793. His power and influence were 
unlimited, and were exerted only for the peace and well-being of his people. Under 
this benign guidance the colony flourished amain ; new hamlets arose along the 
shores of the beautiful bay ; and an Acadian village was founded in the oak -groves 
of Tusket. M. Segoigne also conciliated the Micmacs, learned their language, and 
was highly venerated by all their tribe. 

" AYhen the traveller enters Clare, the houses, the household utensils, the foreign 
language, and the uniform costume of the inhabitants excite his surprise ; because 
no parish of Nova Scotia has such a distinctive character. The Acadians are far 
behind their neighbors in modes of agriculture : they show a great reluctance to 
enter the forest, and in place of ardvancing upon the highlands, they subdivide their 
lauds along the shore and keep their children about them. They preserve their 
language and customs with a singular tenacity, and though commerce places them 
in constant communication with the English, they never contract marriage with 
them, nor adopt their manners, nor dwell in their villages. This conduct is not due 
to dislike of the English government ; it must be attributed rather to ancient usage, 
to the national character, and to their systems of education. But if they are infe- 
rior to the English colonists in the arts which strengthen and extend the influence 
of society, they can proudly challenge comparison in their social and domestic vir- 
tues. Without ambition, living with frugality, they regulate their life according to 
their means ; devoted to their ancient worship, they are not divided by rehgious 
discord ; in fine, contented with their lot and moral in their habits of life, they en- 
joy perhaps as much of happiness and goodness'as is possible in the fraiity of human 
nature." (llAiiBgRXON.) 

" Still stands the forest primeval ; but under the shade of its branches 
Dwells another race, with other customs and language. 
Only along the shore of the mournful and misty Atlantic 
Linger a few Acadian peasants, whose fathers from exile 
Wandered back to their native laud to die in its bosom. 
In the fisherman's cot the wheel and the loom are still busy ; 
Maidens still wear their Norman caps and their kirtles of homespun, 
And by the evening fire repeat Evangeline's story, 
While from its rocky caverns the deep-voiced neighboring ocean 
Speaks, and in accents disconsolate answers the wail of the forest." 

Longfellow's Evangeline. 

The road runs S. W. from Belliveau Cove to Grosses Coques (300 inhabi- 
tants) and Port Acadie, Clare, and Saulnierville, a line of hamlets whose 
inhabitants are engaged in farming and the fisheries. A road runs 1 M. 
E. to New Tusket, an Anglo-Acadian village in the interior, near the 
island-studded Lake Wentworth. Meteghan (German's Hotel) is a bay- 
side village of 500 inhabitants, nearly all of whom are Acadians and farm- 
ers. There is a small church here, and half-a-dozen stores for country 
trade among the neighbormg farmers. Meteghan is the last village on 
St. Mary's Bay, and the road now turns to the S. and passes the inland 



114 Routers. YAEMOUTH. 

hamlet of Cheticamp. Cape Cove is an Acadian settlement, and is finely- 
situated on a headland which faces the Atlantic. The line leaves the 
vicinity of the sea and strilves inland through a region of forests and lakes ; 
reaching Yarmouth about 13 M. S. of Beaver River. 

Yarmouth {United States Hotel, $6-8 a week; American Hotel) is a 
wealthy and prosperous seaport on the S. W. coast of Nova Scotia, and is 
situated on a narrow harbor 3 M. from the Atlantic. It has 6,280 in- 
habitants, with 9 churches, 2 banks, 4 local marine-insurance companies, 
and 2 weekly newspapers. It has a public library and a small museum 
of natural history. The schools are said to be the best in the Province, 
and occupy conspicuous buildings on the ridge back of the town. The 
Court-House is in the upper part of the town; near which is the spacious 
Baptist church, built in Novanglian architecture. The Episcopal church 
is a new building, and is one of the best in Nova Scotia. 1 M. out is a 
rural cemetery of 40 acres. Yarmouth is built along a line of low rocky 
heights, over a harbor which is nearly drained at low tide. It receives a 
goodly number of summer visitors, most of whom pass into the Tusket 
Lakes or along the coast to the E., in search of sport. 

Yarmouth has been called the most American of all the Provincial towns, and is 
endowed with the energj^ and pertinacity of New England. Though occupying a 
remote situation on an indifferent harbor, with a barren and incapable back coun- 
try, this town has risen to opulence and distinction by the indomitable industry of 
its citizens. In 1761 the shipping of the country was confined to one 25-ton fishing- 
boat ; in 1869 it amounted to 284 vessels, measuring 93,896 tons, and is now far iu 
advance even of that figure. It is claimed that Yarmouth, for her population, is 
the largest ship-owning port in the world. In addition to these great commercial 
fleets, the town has established a steamship-line to St. John and Boston, and is 
building, almost alone, the Western-Counties Railway to Annapolis. It is expected 
that great benefit will accrue from the timber-districts which will be opened by this 
new line of travel. " Yarmouth's financial success is due largely to the practical 
judgment and sagacity of her mariners. She has reared an army of shipmasters of 
whom any country might be proud," and it is claimed that a large proportion of 
the Cape- Ann fishing-captains are natives of this country. On the adjacent coast, 
and within 12 M. of Yarmouth, are the marine hamlets of Jegoggin, Sandford 
(Cranberry Head), Arcadia, Hebron, Hartford, Kelley's Cove, Jebogue, Darling's 
Lake (Short Beach), and Deerfield. These settlements have over 6,000^inhabitant3 
in the aggregate. The coast was occupied by the French during the 17th century, 
but was afterwards abandoned. About the middle of the last century these de- 
serted shores were taken possession of by colonies of fishermen from Massachusetts 
and Connecticut, who wished to be nearer their fishing-grounds ; and the present 
population is descended from these hardy men and the Loyalists of 1783. The an- 
cient Indian name of Yarmouth was Keespoogwitk, which means " Land's End." 

Steamships run between Yarmouth and Boston once dr twice a week. When the 
Western-Counties Railway is finished to Annapolis, this will afford the quickest 
route between Boston and Halifax. The sea journey from Boston to Yarmouth 
takes 19-20 hrs. ; the railway journey to Halifax will take 9 hours more. 



TUSKET LAKES. Route 23. 115 

The Tusket Lakes and Archipelago. 

The township of Yarmouth contains 80 lakes, and to a bird flying overhead it 
must seem like a patchwork of blue and green, in which the blue predominates. 
They are nearly all connected with the Tusket Kiver, and are generally small, very 
irregular, and surrounded by young forests. They rarely attain the width of 1 M., 
and are strung along the course of the river and its tributaries, joined by narrow 
aisles of water, and breaking off into bays which the unguided voyager would often 
ascend in mistake for the main channel In the lower lakes, where the tide flows, 
near Argyle Bay, are profitable eel-fisheries. The remoter waters, towards the Blue 
Mts., afford good trout-fishing. 

The westerly line of lakes are visited from Yarmouth by riding 5 M. out 
on the Digby road and then turning off to Deerjield, near the Salmon-River 
Lakes, or passing over to the settlement at Lake George (12-14 M. from 
Yarmouth), which is 1^ M. wide and 3 -4 M. long, and is the largest lake iu 
the township. A little farther N. is the Acadian settlement at Cedar Lake. 

The best route for the sportsman is to follow the Barrington telegraph- 
road 10 M. N. E. to Tusket (two inns), a large and prosperous shipbuild- 
ing village, with three chiirches, near the head of ship-navigation on the 
Tusket River. The scenery in this vicinity is picturesque, its chief feature 
being the many green islands off the shores; and the river has been famous 
for fisheries of salmon and gaspereaux, now impaired by the lumber-mills 
above. From this point a chain of lakes ascends to the N. for 20 M., in- 
cluding the central group of the Tuskets, and terminating at the island- 
strewn Lake Wentworth. The best place is found by following the road ' 
■which runs N. E. 15-18 M., between Vaughan Lake and Butler's Lake, 
and by many lesser ponds, to the remote settlement of ^e?/?/»i (small hotel), 
near the head-waters of the central and western groups. To the N. and E. 
of this point are the trackless forests and savage ridges of the Blue Mts., 
and the hunter can traverse these wilds for 40 M. to the N. E. (to the Liv- 
erpool Lakes), or for 30 M. to the S. E (to the Shelburne settlements), 
without meeting any permanent evidences of civilization. 

The ancient Indian tradition tells that squirrels were once very numerous in this 
region, and grew to an enormous size, endangering the lives of men. But the Great 
Spirit once appeared to a blameless patriarch of the Micmacs, and offered to reward 
his virtue by granting his utmost desire. After long meditation the chief asked the 
Divine Visitor to bless the land by taking the power from the mighty squirrels, upon 
which the mandate was issued and the dreaded animals shrank to their present in- 
significant size. And hence it is known that ever since that day the squirrel has 
been querulous at the sight of man. 

This great forest was formerly the paradise of moose-hunters, but is now closed 
to that sport by the recent Provincial law which forbids the killing of moose for the 
next three years. Poaching is, of course, quite possible, since the forest cannot be 
studded with game-keepers ; but men of culture and foresight will doubtless approve 
the action of the government, and will abstain from illegally pursuing this noble 
game, which must become extinct in a very few years unless carefully protected. 



S. of Tusket village are the beautiful groups of the Tusket Isles, stud- 
ding the waters of Argyle Bay and the Abuptic Harbor. Like most other 
collections of islands on this continent, they are popularly supposed to be 



IJG Route U. DJGliY NECK. 

Sfifj in nurnlK^r, tliougyi they do not claim to poHROss an intercalary islet 
lil'.o tiiitt oil L!t.k<5 (jcorf.^(5 (New Yorit), wliicli a[i|)OurH only every fourth 
,<;!u-. 'liie 'J'utilcetH vary in Hizo from MorriH iHlund, whicli i» 8 M. long, 
<iowii to tlio firniilleHt tuft-<:rowned rocks, and afford a great divei-Klty of 
Hcr:n<!ry. 'i'lio outer fringe of tlio archipelago In tlireaded by the lliilifux 
iiiid Varniouth KteainKliip (hce page ViSt). 

" 'J'h(i HfUinnry of Argylft IJiiy i« «fxl.r«iiioly lujaiiUful of itM klmi ; innuniferaljle 

ihlitmjM fiiiil |.<oiliihulfi.« <!iirl()H«j (Iks wiid-.r in <!V<;ry iJirwitloii (JottagcH and cul- 

UviiM-iJ liiiiiJ liinitU Uio iiiaHCJiM of foiiiMt, and tin: iiiaH(,M of Hiiiall liHliliig-vcMiti.'lH jioifp- 
ill^^ u|i riDMi <!V<uy )it,l-l<; < ov(! allyhl, Uk; niiillljjllwi r<;hour<(;w which Nature luiw pro- 
vidfd for Ui<i Hn|»|)ly of Mm inlmldUnl.H." (Oai-t. Moormon,) 

AniriMK l.lio^ii narrow |»;i.Mh<!ri liundrcilH rjf AciiJiauM t,()(,|( rciiigo diiriii(f flu; piTfiocu- 
UdhW of ITfiH (JO. A IJiIUhIi (VIkhI.*! wa;i h<-ii(. down to liiinl, tlicni out, liit om<; of lu-r 
lioatri' (I'fiWH wari dchtioycd hy tlio fugitlvcri among tlic, iMlandrt, and tlicy wcro r-.ofc 
dirtlodgfd. 'I'licio aio now two or thrtiO ImiiilutM of AcadlaiiM In the region of the 
Upper Ittlcew, 

[The Editor dfjprccateB the meagroncBH of fcho foregoing account of the TuHket 
LiikeH. Jt wax too late in the heahon, when he arriveil at Yannoutli, to make tlie 
tour of tlilH dl.-.(,ii<t, and tlic, landloni of tlie United MtatcK llol.il, the hewt, authority 
on the Kpoiting tiuiiitie.M of (,he laKe-coiintiy , wiiM then attending; a party 0( Ilonton 
Bporl-MiHiii anmiig the Kliie MtH. 'J'li<! foregoing utatemeiitH ahout the dl«trict, 
tiiough ohtaiiKid from tlie, he«t itcceHHihIe honreeH oi Information, ari! thi^refore given 
under rewei've ; and It would he hi;Ht for gentlr-m<-n who wiih to Huminer among tlio 
'I'uf.ketH to make hniulriow hy letter of the jiroprietor of tlie United Htalew llotel, 
Yarmouth, N, W.\ 

21 Digby Neck. 

Trl-woekly «tagc8 leave Dighy for thin remote eorner of Nova Heotia. Faro to 
Handy Cove, *l.f,(); to Went, Port, ,1! 2. 

J>iH(itiii'<^M. liiKhy to ItoMMway, H'-i M. ; Waterford, 12 ; (IcMitrevllJe Ifj; Lako- 
Blde 17; Handy Oove, 20; hlttle klver, 25; i'etlto J'a^iHuge, {jO; Ji'ree Tort; WoBt 
Tort, 40. 

'i'lio Btngo runs H. W. from Dighy, leaving tlie HcttlcmcntH of Marfthall- 
tovvn and ilrigliton on the 1., acroHH the Smelt River. Tlio llrnt hamlet 
reiiclied Im JinHniiuii/^ whence a mad croHweH to (iiiIIIvim-'h Covit on the lUiy 
<d' I'liiidy. For ov(!r 20 M. tlie road descendH the r(Miuukahle peniuHula 
<d Digliy Neck, wlioue average width, from liay to bay, Is about IJ M. 
On Hie 1, i« tlie contlnuoufl range of dark IiIIIh which marks the W. end 
• lithe North Mi. riiiigii, wliere it Ih Kinking towiirdH tlio sea. Among these 
IiIIIh are foiiiid line speciiiKsiis of iigiito and jiiHper, and the views from their 
hiiiniiiilrt ( wlieii not liidden by trees) reveal broad and brilliant stretchou 
oi Mill' wiitii- on eiiher hide. FogH firo, howovor, very provalotit here, and 
Hfc locally Hii|)|Mihi'd to be riilher Iiealtiiy than otIierwiHO. On the 1. of the 
load are the broad waters of St. Mary's Ihiy, far laiyoiid which are the 
low and rugged lllue Mts. 

StiniJi/ Cow (Minall inn) is the iuetro|iolis of l)igliy Ne(;k, and has 400 
inliahilaiilii and two cliurclies. Its p(n)j)|e live by farming and fishing, 
and support a lorlnighlly packet-boat to St. .loliii, N. li. 4 M. S. E., 
acroHM Si. Mary'H Hay, ih the port ol' VV(\vnioiitli (s(!e page 112). Beyond 
l.iLile Jilver village liie stage cro»HU8 the ridge, and the passenger pasbUB 



NOVA-SCOTIA COAST. Jloute S5. 117 

the Petite Passa(/ey which sopivrates Dio;by Nook from I.onp; Irtluiid. This 
strnit is qnito doop nncl 1 M. wide, nnd 1ms a red-nnd-whito Hashing light 
on its N. W. iioint (IJoai-'s Head). On tiio opposite shore of the passago 
is a village ol'UDO inhabitants (mostly llshennen), and the stage now r\n»3 
down Long Island on the Uay of Fnndy side. It' there is no fog the view 
across the bay is jdeasing, and is nsually enlivened by the sails of passing 
vessels. Long Island is abont 10 M. long, and 2 M. wide, and Its vlllaga 
of Free Port has VOO inhabitants. 

Near the end of Long Island another ferry-boat is taken, iuid the trav- 
eller crosses the Grand Passage to West Port (Denton's Hotel), a village 
of 600 inhabitants, most of whom are (ishermen, shipbuilders, ov sea- 
captains. This town is on Rrier Island, the S. K. portal of the Uay of 
Fundy, and is f) M. long by 2 I\L wide. On its F. side are two Used white 
lights, and on the W. are a fog-whistle antl a powerful white light visible 
for 15 M.. 

25. Halifax to Yarmouth. - The Atlantic Coast of Nova 

Scotia. 

The steamers of Fishwlck's Express Lino ply along the coast of Nova 
Scotia, leaving ITalifax for YarintMilh weekly. Another vessel of Ihia 
lino plies between llalifiix, (ape Cnnso, (iuysborough, Port Hastings, 
port iMidgravi', and Autigonish, giving access to all the North-Shore ports, 
and I'onueeling with the Mras d'Or steamboats, for Cape llrcton. 

Faros. — llalilax to Luiund>nr(;c« *2 ; to Liveriiool, $8.50; to Sliolbarno, |4.50; 
to Yiineouta, ,'t|!(). liUuculmrfj; to MvtM'iuiol, $i\\ to Hliclbuvoe, filfjO; to Yar- 
nioiitli, |i4.r)0. Livcriiool t,o Slicllninit», .iji'i ; to YiirnioutU, itt^tl.fiO. Shollninio to 
Yai'iiumtli, $'2 M. lU'i'tlis iu'i« inilihl«(l iu thoso pvii-os, but, tlio iiu-als iwo extra. 

"The .Vlliuitii' coiiM. ol' Nova Scolia, tVom ('aj)ii Oaiiso to t'ape Salile, is pien'ofl 
witli iiuuiuitialilc small lia.vs, liarliors, and rivi'v.n. Tlio shoves are lined with roeks 
nod Ihoii.siUhls otislMiKh; ami altluMifi,li mi part ofMie country can pniperl.v lie con- 
siiliM-tul mouiitainoiis, and llieie ai<' lint, tew stccji hij^h <'lills, yel the a^^pt^(•t (if tho 
V'hiile, it nut rcinianlically unhlinie, i,s e.Kce('dinti,l> pict,nrc,s((ue ; and the Hcenery, in 
many places, is richly liea.nlirul.. The landscape which the head tif Mahone Biiv,la 
particular, prt\sents can scarcely be surpasHed," (M'ttiiKnon's Brilis/i Anii'ridi) 

" Thi< jn}i;L'e(l (intllne of this coast,, a.^ ,-een upon the map, rendnds us of the luiually 
Indi'utcd Alliinlic .shnrcs of Scandinavia; and lh<^ ciinrinlcr of l,he coast, as he saild 
nlonH; it — the rocky nnrfaci^ l,he sciudy herliajj;c, and tin* tMidler<s pint^ fort^sts — ro- 
catl to the traveller t,lie appearance and natural productions of the same Europoaa 
country." (1'rof. Jounston.) 

Tho steamer passes down Halifax Harbor (see pago 93), and gains tho 
open sea beyond Chebneto Head and tho lighthonse on Siimbro Idand. 
She nsnally midvos a good oiling before turning down the coast, in order to 
avoid the far-reaehing and dangerons Sambro Ledges. W. of tlie open 
light of Pennant Bay is Mars Head, on whose fatal rocks tho ocean stotim- 
ship Atlantic waa wrecked. 



118 Route 25. LUNENBURG. 

This line of coast has been famous for its marine disasters. In 1779 the British, 
■war-vessels ISorth and Helena were wrecked near Sanibro,andl70 men were drowned. 
Wars Head derives its name from the fact that the British linc-of- battle ship Mars, 
70 guns, was wrecked iipon its bla<k ledges. In 1779 the American war-vessel Viper, 
22, attacked II. M. S. l\esolution,in&t off 8ambro, and captured her after a long and 
desperate battle, in which both ships were badly cut to pieces. Cajie .Sainliro was 
named by the mariners of St. Malo early in the 17th century ; and it is thought that 
the present form of the name is a corruption of St. Crnrlre, the original designation. 
The ancient Latin bnok called the Noriis Orhis (published by Elzevir; Amsterdam, 
1(333) says that the islands between Cape Sambro (Sfsn7?ibre) and Mahone Bay were 
called tlie Martyrs' Isles, on account of the Frenchmen who had there been mas- 
sacred by the heathen Indians. 

Beyond Cape Prospect the deep indentations of St. Margaret's Bay and 
Mahone Bay make in on the N., and 

" breezy Aspotogon 
Lifts high its suiinnit blue." 

The roughest water of the voyage is usually found while crossing the 
openings of these bays. The course is hiid for Cross Isla/id, where there 
are two lights, one of Avhicli is visible for 14 M. Passing close in by this 
island, the steamer enters that pretty bay which was formerly known to 
the Indians as Malar/ash, or "Milky," on account of the whiteness of its 
stormy surf. At the head of this bay the white and compact town of 
Lunenburg is seen between two round green hills. The steamer passes 
around the outermost of these, and enters the sni;g little harbor. 

" The town of lAuienburg is situated at the innermost extremity of a peninsula, 
and to a military traveller presents a more formidable aspect than any other in Nova 
Scotia, the upjx-r houses being placed on the crests of steep glacis slopes, so as to 
bear upon all approaches." (Capt. Moorson.) 

Lunenburg {Kinfs Hotel) is a thriving little seapoi-t, situated on a se- 
cure and spacious harbor, and enjoying a lucrative West-India trade. 
Together with its immediate environs, it has 4,000 inhabitants, of whom 
over half are in the port itself. The German character of the citizens is 
still retained, though not so completely as in their rural settlements; and 
the principal churches are Lutheran. The public buildings of Lunenburg 
County are located here. A large trade in lumber and fish is carried on, in 
addition to the southern exports. There are numerous ftirming communi- 
ties of Germanic origin in the vicinity; and the shore-roads exhibit at- 
tractive phases of marine scenery. 7 M. distant is the beautifully situated 
village of Mahone Bay (see Route 26) ; 4 M. distant are the remai'kable sea- 
side ledges called the Blue Rocks; to the S. E. is the rural settlement of 
Lunenburg Peninsula, off which are the sea-girt farms of Heckman's 
Island ; and 12 M. distant is the gold district of The Ovens. 

This site was anciently occupied by the Indian village of MaJagash. In 1745 the 
British government issued a proclamation inviting tJorman Protestants to emigrate 
to Nova Scotia and take up its unoccupied lands In 17ri3, 200 families of Germans 
and Swiss settled at Lunenburg, and were provided with farming implements and 
three years' provisions by the government. They fortified their new domains as 
well as possible, but many of the people were killed by Indians lurking in the woods. 
The settlement was thus held in check until after the Conquest of Canada, when the 
Indians ceased hostiUties. In 1777 the town was attacked by two American priTa- 



IRONBOUND ISLAND. Route 25. 119 

teers, who landed detachments of armed men and occupied the principal buildings. 
After plundering the place and securing a valuable booty, these unwelcome visitors 
sailed away rejoicing, leaving Lunenburg to put on the robes of war and anxiously 
yearn for another naval attack, for whose reception spirited provisions were made. 

Among the people tliroughout this county German customs are still preserved, as 
at weddings and funerals ; the German language is spoken ; and sermons are deliv- 
ered oftentimes in the same tongue. The cows are made to do service in ploughing, 
and the furming implements are of a primitive pattern. A large portion of the out- 
door work in the fields is done by the women, who are generally strong and muscular. 

The steamer leaves Lunenburg Harbor, passes Battery Point and its 
lighthouse on the 1., and descends between the Ivnob-like hills of the outer 
harbor. On the r. are the shores of the remarkable peninsula of The 
Ovens (distant from Lunenburg, by road, 10 - 12 M.). The low cliffs along 
this shoi'e are pierced by numerous caverns, three of which are 70 ft. "wide 
at their mouths and over 200 ft. deep. The sea dashes into these dark 
recesses during a heavy swell with an amazing roar, broken by deep 
booming reverberations. Certain features in the formation of these caves 
have led to the supposition that they were made by human labor, though 
the theorists do not state the probable object for which they were exca- 
vated. In 1S61 gold was discovered on the Ovens peninsula, and 2,000 
ounces were obtained during that autumn, since which the mining fever 
has subsided, and no earnest work has been done here. The precious metal 
was obtained chiefly by washing, and but little was effected in the way 
of quartz-crushing. 

Beyond Ovens Head the pretty circular indentation of ^ose Bay is seen 
on the r., on whose shores is a settlement of 250 German farmers. The 
steamer now passes between Cross Island (1.) and Rose Head, which are 
about 2 M. apart, and enters the Atlantic. When a sufficient offing has 
been made, the course is laid S. W. ^ W. for 8| M. Point Enrag^ is soon 
passed, and then the vessel approaches * Ironhound Island. This re- 
markable rock is about ^ M. long, and rises from the sea on all sides in 
smooth curves of dark and iron-like I'ock, on which the mighty surges 
of the Atlantic are broken into great sheets of white and hissing foam. 
Upon this dangerous outpost of Nova Scotia there is a revolving light, 
which is visible for 13 M. Beyond Ironbound, on the r., is seen the deep 
estuary of the Lahave River, which is navigable to Bridgewater, a distance 
of 13 M., passing for 12 M. through the hamlets of New Dublin, and thence 
through a valley between high and knob-like hills. 

At Fort La Heve in 1636-7, died Isaac de Razilly, " Knight Commander of the 
Order of St. John of Jerusalem, Lieutenant-General of Acadie, and Captain of the 
West." He was a relative of Cardinal Richelieu, and had fought in the campaigns 
of La Rochelle and the coast of Morocco. In 1642 D'Aulnay purchased these do- 
mains from Claude de Razilly, but soon evacuated the place, removing the people to 
Port Royal. By 1654 the colony had recovered itself, having " undoubtedly the 
best port and the best soil in the whole country." It was then attacked by the 
Sieur le Borgne, who burned all its houses and the chapel. At a later day the new 
Fort La H6ve was attacked by a strong force of New-England troops, who were 
beaten off several times with the loss of some of their best men. But the brave 
Frenchmen were finally forced to surrender, and the place was reduced to ruins. 
In 1705 the settlement was again destroyed by Boston pi'ivateers. 



120 Route 25. LH^EPOOL. 

When off Cape Lahave the steamer takes a course W. by S., which is 
followed for 15§ M. The fishing hamlet of Broad Cove is on the shore 
S. W. of Cape Lahave ; and when about 9 M. from the cape, the entrance 
of Port Medway is seen. This harbor is 4 M. long and 1^ M. wide, and 
receives the waters of the Port Medway and Pedley Eivers. Port Med- 
way (Dunphy's Hotel) is on its W. shore, and has 600 inhabitants, who 
are engaged in shipbuilding and lumbering. 

The steamer soon rounds the revolving red light (visible 16 M.) on Cof- 
fin's Island, and turns to the N. W. up Livei'pool Bay. The shores are 
well inhabited, with the settlement of Moose Hcn-bor on the 1., and Brook- 
lyn (or Herring Cove) on the r. The lighthouse on Fort Point is rounded 
and the vessel enters the mouth of the Liverpool Eiver, with a line of 
wharves on the 1., and the bridge in advance. 

Liverpool ( Village Green Hotel, a comfortable summer-house ; and two 
other inns) is a flourishing seaport with 3,102 inhabitants, 5 churches, a 
weekly paper, and a bank. Its principal industries are lumbering, fish- 
ing, and shipbuilding. The town occupies the rocky shore at the mouth 
of the Liverpool Kiver, and its streets are adorned with numerous large 
shade trees. Many summer visitors come to this place, either on account 
of its own attractions, or to seek the trout on the adjacent streams and 
lakes (see Eoute 27). There are pleasant drives also on the Mill- Village 
Eoad, and around the shores of the bay. 

Liverpool occupies the site of the ancient Indian domain of Ogiimkegeolc, made 
classic in the traditions of the Micmacs by the celebrated encounter which took 
place here between the divine Glooscap (see page 106) and the great sorceress of the 
Atlantic coast. The struggle bf craft and malevolence against superior power are 
quaintly narrated, though taking forms not pleasing to refined minds, and the con- 
test ends in the defeat of the hag of Ogumkegeok, who is rent in pieces by the 
hunting-dogs of Glooscap. 

In May, 1604, the harbor of Liverpool was entered by Pierre du Guast, " Sieur de 
Monts of Saintonge, Gentleman in Ordinary of the Chamber, and Governor of Pons," 
who had secured a monopoly of the fur-trade between 40° and 54° N. latitude. He 
found a ship here trading without authority, and confiscated her, naming the har- 
bor Port Rossignol, after her captain, "as though M. de Monts had wished to make 
some compensation to the man for the loss he inflicted on him, by immortaUzing 
his name." This designation did not hold to the harbor, but has been transferred 
to the large and beautiful lake near the head-waters of the Liverpool River. 

About 1634 a shore-fishery was established here by M Denys and Gov. Razilly. 
This enterprise was for a long time successful, biit was finally crippled by the cap- 
ture of its heavily laden freigh ting-ship by the Portuguese. Soon afterward Denys 
■was forced to leave Port Rossignol on account of the machinations of D'Aulnay 
Charnisay, and the settlement was broken up. By the 3'ear 1760 a thriving village 
stood on this site , and in the War of 1812 many active privateers were fitted out here. 
In 1832 the port owned 25,000 tons of shipping. 

On leaving Liverpool Bay the steamer rounds Western Head and runs 
S. W. ^ S. 14 M. On the r. is the deep embayment of Port Mouton, 
partly sheltered by Mouton Island, and lighted by a fixed red light on 
Spectacle Island. At its head is the farming and fishing settlement of 
Port Mouton, with 350 inhabitants. This inlet was visited by the ex- 
ploring ship of the Sieur de Monts in 1604. and received the name which 



SHELBUENE. Route 25. 121 

it still bears because a sheep here leaped from the deck into the bay and 
■was drowned. The shores were settled in 1783 by the disbanded veterans 
of Tarleton's Legion, who had done such valiant service in the Carolinas. 

In July, 1622, Sir William Alexander's pioneer-ship entered Port Mouton, " and 
discovered three very pleasant harbors and went ashore in one of them, which, after 
the ship's name, they called Luke's Bay, where they found, a great way up, a very 
pleasant river, being three fathoms deep at the entry thereof, and on every side of 
the same they did see very delicate meadows, having Roses white and red growing 
thereon, with a kind of white Lily, which had a dainty smell." These shores, which 
were hardly so fair as the old mariner painted them, were soon occupied by a French 
post, after whose destruction they remained in solitude for over a century. 

On Little Hope Island is a revolving red light, beyond which the steamer 
runs W. S. W. 15 M. ; then Port Joli opens to the N. W., on which is a 
fishing-village of 200 inhabitants. About 3 M. beyond is Port Herbert, a 
deep and narrow estuary with another maritime hamlet. Farther W. is 
the mouth of Sable Eiver ; but the steamer holds a course too far out to 
distinguish much of these low shores. 3| M. N. is Ea7n Island, W. of 
which are the ledges off Eagged Island Harbor, at whose head is a village 
of 350 inhabitants. On the W. side of the harbor is Locke's Island (two 
inns), a prosperous little port of 400 inhabitants, whence the West-India 
trade and the Bank fisbei-ies are carried on. During the season of 1874 
70,000 quintals offish (valued at $250,000) were exported from this point. 
On Carter's Island is a fixed red light, and the sea-swept ledge of Gull 
Eoch lies outside of the hai"bor, and has a powerful white light. Bevond 
Western Head the steamer runs across the wide estuaries of Green Harbor 
and the Jordan Eiver, on whose shores are four maritime hamlets. The 
course is changed to N. W. ^ N., and Bony's and Government Points are 
passed on the r. On the 1. Cape Eoseway is approached, on which are 
two fixed white lights, visible for 10 and 18 M., standing in a black-and- 
white striped tower. Passing between Surf Point and Sand Point the ves- 
sel turns N. by E., leaving Birchtown Bay on the 1., and runs up to Shel- 
burne. The last few miles are traversed between the picturesque shores 
of a bay which an enthusiastic mariner has called " the best in the world, 
except the harbor of Sydney, in Australia." 

Shelburne {Port Roseioay House ; English and American Hotel) is the cap- 
ital of Shelburne County, and has over 1,000 inhabitants and 5 churches. 
It is engaged chiefly in fishing and shipbuilding, and excels in the latter 
branch of business. The harbor is 9 M. long and 1-2 M. wide, and has 
5-7 fathoms of water, without any shoals or flats. It is completely land- 
locked, but can never attain any commercial importance, owing to the 
fact that it is frozen solid during the winter, there being no river currents 
or strong tides to agitate the water. There are granite-ledges near the 
village, and the Eoseway Eiver empties into the bay 1 M. distant. Birch- 
toivn is 5 M. from Shelburne, and is at the head of a branch of the bay. It 
is inhabited by the descendants of the negro slaves brought from Mary- 
land and Virginia by the Loyalist refugees, in 1783. The country back 



122 Route 25. PORT LATOUR. 

of Shelburne is unimproved, and the roads soon terminate in the great for^- 
ests about the Blue Mts. Stages run from this town E. and W. Fares, 
Slielburne to Liverpool, $2.50; to Barrington, $1.50; to Yarmouth, $4. 

" The town of Shelburne is situated at the N. extremity of a beautiful inlet, 10 M. 
in length and 2-3 M in breadth, in which the whole royal navy of Great Britain 
might lie completely landlocked." In 1783 large numbers of American Loyalists 
settled here, hoping to erect a great city on this unrivalled harbor. They brought 
their servants and equipages, and established a cultured metropolitan society. Shel- 
burne soon ran ahead of Halifax, and measures were taken to transfer the seat of 
government here. Within one jear the primeval forest was replaced by a city of 
12,000 inhabitants (of whom 1,200 were negroes). The obscure hamlet which had 
been founded here (under the name of New Jerusalem) in 1764 was replaced by a 
metropolis ; and Gov. Parr soon entered the bay on the frigate La Sophie, amid the 
roaring of saluting batteries, and named the new city Slielburne. But the place 
had no rural back-country to supply and be enriched by ; and the colonists, mostly 
patricians from the Atlantic cities, could not and would not engage in the fisheries. 
The money which they had brought from their old homes was at last exhausted, and 
then " Shelburne dwindled into insignificance almost as rapidly as it had risen to 
notoriety." Many of its people returned contritely to the United States; and the 
population here soon sank to 400. " It is only the sight of a few large storehouses, 
with decayed timbers and window-frames, standing near the wharves, that will lead 
him to conclude that those wharves must once have teemed with shipmasters and 
sailors. The streets of the town are changed into avenues bounded by stone fences 
on either side, in which grass plants contest the palm of supremacy with stones." 
Within two years over $ 2,500,000 were sunk in the founding of Shelburne. 

The steamer leaves Shelburne by the same course on which she entered, 
with the stunted forests of McNutt's Island on the r. Rounding Cape 
Roseway within 1 M. of the lights, she runs down by Gray's Island, pass- 
ing Round Bay and the hamlet of Black Point, on the bold headland of 
the same name. Negro Island is then seen on the r., and is occupied by 
a population of fishermen; while its N. E. point has a powerful i-ed-and- 
white flashing light. Inside of this island is the broad estuary of the Cl,yde 
River, and near by is the large and picturesque fishing-village of Cape 
Negro. Cape Negro was so named by Champlain, in 1604, "on account 
of a rock which at a distance resembles one." The steamer then passes 
the Salvage Rocks, off Blanche Island (Point Jeffrej'-s), and opens the 
broad bay of Port Latour on the N. W. This haven was the scene of 
stirring events during the 17th century, and the remains of the fort of 
Claude de la Tour are still visible here. 

" Claude Turgis de St. Estienne, Sieur de la Tour, of the province of Champagne, 
quitted Paris, taking with him his son Charles Amador, then 14 years old, to settle 
in Acadia, near Poutrincourt, wlio was then engaged in founding Port Royal." 17 
years afterwards, Charles succeeded to the government on the death of Biencourt, 
Poutrincourt's son, and for 4 years held Fort St. Louis, in the present Port Latour. 
Meantime Claude had been captured by the English and carried to London, where 
he was knighted, and then married one of the Queen's maids-of-honor. Being a 
Huguenot, he was the more easily seduced from his allegiance to France, and he 
oifered to the King to procure the surrender of Fort St. Louis (the only French post 
then held in Acadia) to the English So he sailed to Nova Scotia with two frigates, 
and asked his son to yield up the stronghold, offering him high honors at London 
and the supreme command in Acadia, on behalf of the English power. " Claude at 
once told his father that he was mistaken in supposing him capable of giving up the 
place to the enemies of the state. That he would preserve it for the king his master 
while he had a breath of life. That he^steemed highly the dignities offered him by 



CAPE SABLE. Route 25. 123 

the English king, but should not buy them at the price of treason. That the prince 
he served was able to requite him ; and if not, that fidelity was its own best recom- 
pense." The father employed affectionate intercession and bold menace, alike in 
vain ; and the English naval commander then landed his forces, but was severely 
repulsed from the fort, and finally gave up the siege. A traitor to France and a 
cause of disaster to England, the unfortunate La Tour dared not return to Europe, 
but advised his patrician wife to go back with the fleet, since naught now remained 
for him but penury and misery. The noble lady replied, " that she had not married 
him to abandon him. That wherever he should take her, and in whatever condi- 
tion he might be placed, she would always be his faithful companion, and that all 
her happiness would consist in softening his grief." He then threw himself on the 
clemency of his son, who tempered filial affection with military vigilance, and wel- 
comed the elder La Tour, with his family, servants, and equipage, giving him a house 
and liberal subsistence, but making and enforcing the condition that neither himself 
nor his wife should ever enter Fort St. Louis. There they lived in happiness and 
comfort for man}' years. (See also page 19.) 

The hamlet of Port Latour is seen on the inner shore, and the 
vessel rounds the long low promontory of Baccaro Point., on which is a 
small village and a fixed red light (visible 12 j\I.). On the W. is Cape 
Sable Island, which is 7 M. long and 2 - 3 M. wide, and has a population 
of 1,636, with three churches. Its first settlers were the French Acadians, 
v;ho had prosperous little liamlets on the shores. In August, 1758, 400 
soldiers of the 35th British Regiment landed here and destroyed the settle- 
ments, and carried priest and people away to Halifax. About 1784 the 
island was occupied by Loyalists from the New-England coasts, whose de- 
scendants are daring and adventurous mariners. Cape Sable is on an 
outer islet at the extreme S. point of the island and of Nova Scotia, and is 
8 ~ 9 M. S. W. of Baccaro Point. 

It is supposed that Cape Sable and the adjacent shores were the ancient lands of 
the Norse discoverers, " flat, and covered with wood, and where white sands were 
far around where they went, and the shore was low." In the year 994 this point was 
visited by Leif, the sou of Eric the Red, of Brattahlid, in Greenland. He anchored 
his ship off shore and landed in a boat ; and when he returned on board he said : 
" This land shall be named after its qualities, and called Markland " (woodland). 
Thence he sailed southward, and discovered Vinland the Good, on the S. shores of 
Massachusetts and Rhode Island, where for many years the bold Norsemen main- 
tained colonies. In the year 1007 Markland was again visited by Thorfinn Karlsefne, 
who, with 160 men, was sailing south to Vinland. These events are narrated in the 
ancient Icelandic epics of the Saga of Eric the Red and the Saga of Thorfinn Karlsefne. 

In 1347 a ship ai'rived at Iceland from the shores of Markland, which is de- 
scribed by the Annales Skalholtini and the Codex Flateyensis as having been 
smaller than any Icelandic coasting-vessel. In such tiny craft did the fearless 
Norsemen visit these iron-bound shores. 

In the autumn of 1750 there was a sharp naval action off the cape between 
H. M. S. Albany and the French war-vessel St. Francis. The engagement lasted 
four hours, and ended in the surrender of the St. Francis, whose convoy, however, 
escaped and reached its destination. 

^ In July, 1812, the Salem privateer Polhj was cruising off Cape Sable, when she 
sighted two strange sail, and bore down on them, supposing them to be merchant- 
men ; but one was a British sloop-of-war, which opened a hot fire upon the incau- 
tious Polly, and a sharp chase ensued. A calm commenced, during which the frig- 
ate's boats and launch attacked the privateer, but were repulsed by heavy dis- 
charges of musketry and langrage. The Polly made her escape, and during the 
chase and action the convoy of the frigate had been captured by the privateer Mad- 
ison, and was sent into Salem. 

In the same vicinity (Aug. 1, 1812) the Rhode-Island privateer Yankee captured 
the British ship Royal Bounty., 10 guns, after a battle of one hour's duration. The 



124 limUiS. BARIUNGTON. 

|iiri'»»twr's bx>>s»d!«lk\tv< wti^w iWiwn^^ with gne>at vrwkiovn. and 150of h»>r shot struck 
th0 euwxvv, whiW tht> t\tv i>f the Kt»,waJ Bi»w«f;«, though K^ivid »jul h*^v>i-, was jxi^^u^ly 
iuoftwtiv**. Tht> s.hAttv'jwl l»vitou btH'i^xwo \\nm»n»g*v>Wt>. and whil«> i'» that c\>udi- 
tivxn was raktsl fkvm sttnu to stortt In tht* ^'twivi^'s hattevu\^, 

Oa\h> !*aW*? has K>n^ he*M\ divadtsl hv sr\>»«>t>n , and has oax»^cht \\p and de^itjvycd 
«M»n> \w>«s\^\s. 1» iv<* on<> of th«^ n\t\st dangvn^ns p\\M\gs i>t' that ivvn-K^vuvd l^v\iV,c« 
ftv»'\vhk>tx K^hnnnd BnvKe ivnld t\xul no Wttw \vv>»\ls than " that ha>M-\is{\j^\h ill- 
£»vvM>tNi b\-at '' lhvlv>\»\N the most dt\strnou\o >vj>\'Jv on this s.how was that ^vf th« 
oct^n st<>aiuship Jj!AH^\.ii''Mn, 

The steanior is now rwnnin^at to the N. W. «p the £m'-Hnffh>n Po*. 
«ape» between Cape Sable Island and the popnlous Bacoaj\> penhxsula. In 
about 12 M. Jt lies to otT Baxriug^ton, a thvivinst niaritiroe village of 1,000 
inhabitants, most of whom aiv engtxged in the fisheries and the coasting 
tnxde. Clyde Kiver is about 9 M. M. K., and is a lunxbeinng distrSet ox*igi- 
nally settled by Welshmen. 10-13 M. ^, aw the Sabinim and Great 
Pubnieo Lakes. Barrington Avas settleil at an early date by the French, 
but they wei-e ci\-»wded tvtVin ITtJS by the axTival of 160 families ftwn Capo 
Cod, who bivught hither their honsehv^d etleots on their own vessels. 
After the Kevixlution, a colony of Loyalist* ft>>m Nantucket settleti her« 
with their whilom neighbors. 

The course is now to the S. W.» through a narrow and tide-swept pas- 
sage between Clement Point and X. K. Point, and thence out thivngh the 
Barrington NY est Passixge, passing the Baptist ohuxvh near Clax'ke's Har- 
bor, and emerging on the open sea between Bear Point and Xewell Head. 
(It is to be noted that, under certjxin adverse conditions of wind and tide, 
the steamer does not call at Barrington, bxit rtnmds Cape Sable on the 
outside.) On the h is (7*y«"» 7.<i(WJ«?, hiding Ca}H> Sable, and the inlet of 
Shag Harbor is seen on the r. On Bon Portage Island (wlnxse oxnginal 
Fr«>ach name was £im Pota^) is a new lighthouse, to wai^n vessels firom 
the rng-ged shoivs on which the IVce^N^v was wi-ecked. The coxxrse soon 
changes towax\l the X. W'., and Seal Island, **the elbow of the Bay of 
Fimdy," is seen on the 1., thr out at sea, with the tower of its lighthoxxs© 
(fixed Avhite light, visible IS M., and ftxg-whistle) Iwuiing above its low 
shores. On this island the ooean-steamship d^HHihia >?as lost. The 
Blonde Rock is B\ M, S. by W. fi\>m the lighthouse, and marks the point 
whexv H. B, M. tVig^xte Blotide went to pieces, in 1TS:J. Her civw was res- 
cued fivra the island and was given liberty by the American privateers 
Livti^ and Scitmsmily which were pivwling abiuxt Cape Sable at the time 
of the wreck. 

NYhen the Seal Island lighthouse is just abeam, on the other side is seen 
Cockerwhit and the Mutton Islands; X. of Seal Island the \\xldy. Mud, 
and Roxind Islands are seen, lying well out at sea. The early Fxvnch 
maps (Chaxxbert's) gave these lonely islands the significant name of Le$ 

Fronx Ca^v Sahle "" c>up gvvs to the Is^e tVKt Cerwiomrtf*. a lt>a^uo distant, so call«>d 
m account of the infixiit* nxxmbw thojj^of thos* hirvls, with whois* <?^^ w* filled a 



TUSKET ISLANDS. Route S5. 125 

cask ; and from this bay making W. about 6 leagues , crossing a bay which runs in 
2-3 leagues to the N., we meet several islands, 2-3 leagues out to sea, which may 
contain, some 2, others 3 leagues, and others less, according to my judgment. They 
are mostly very dangerous for vessels to come close to, on account of the great tides 
and rocks level with the water. The^^e islands are filled with pine-trees, firs, birches, 
and aspens. A little further on are 4 others. In one there is so great a quantity of 
bir^is called tangueiix that they may be easily knocked down with a stick. In 
another there are seals. In two others there is such an abundance of birds of dif- 
ferent kinds that, without having seen them, could not be imagined, such as cor- 
morants, ducks of three kinds, geese, marmettes, bustards, perroquets de jner, snipes, 
vultures, and other birds of prej^ inaiines, sea-larks of two or three kinds, herons, 
goillants, curlews, sea-gulls, divers, kites, appoils, crows, cranes, and other sorts, 
which make their nests here." (Champlain. ) 

" Here are many islands extending into the sea, 4- 5 M. distant from the main- 
land, and many rocks with breaking seas. Some of these islands, on account of the 
multitude of birds, are called Tsles aiix Tangueux ; others are called Isles aux Loups 
Marins (Seal Islands)." (Novus Orbis.) 

N. of St. John's Island (on the r.) is seen the deep inlet of Pubnico Har- 
bor, on whose shores is the great fishing-village of Pubnico ( Garland's 
Hotel), with 2,500 inhabitants, of whom 136 families are Acadian-French, 
the greater portion belonging to the families of Arairo and D'Entremont. 
There are valuable eel-fishevies off this coast, and the Acadians own 65 
schooners in the Banks fisheries. 5 M. N. is Argyle, a settlement of 800 
inhabitants, near the island-strewn Abuptic Harbor. 

The steamer now crosses the mouth of Argyle Bay and the estuary of 
the Tusket River (see page 116), and enters the archipelago of the * Tusket 
Islands. In favorable conditions of wind and tide she traverses the Ellen- 
wood Passage, passing the Bald Tuskets, Ellenwood, Allen, and Murder 
Islands, and a multitude of others. The islands are of great variety of size 
and shape, and are usually thickly covered with low and sturdy trees; 
and the channels between them are naiTOw and very deep. The frequent 
kaleidoscopic changes in the views on either side, and the fascinating 
commingling and contrast of forest, rock, and water, recall the scenery of 
the Thousand Islands or the Narrows of Lake George. But the Tuskets 
are not even embayed; they stand off one of the sharpest angles of the 
continent, and the deep lanes between them are traversed by the strongest 
tides of the ocean. 

Soon after passing the last Tusket the steamer runs in near the white 
village on Jebogue Point, and enters Yarmouth Sound. On the 1. is Cape 
Fourchu, with its fog-whistle and a lofty revolving light which is visible 
for 18 M. The narrow channel is ascended, with a plain of mud on either 
side, if the tide is out; and the vessel reaches the end of her journey at the 
wharves of Yarmouth. 

Yarmouth, see page 114. 



126 Route 26, ST. MARGAEET'S BAY. 

26. Halifax to Yarmouth, by the Shore Route. — Chester 
and Mahone Bay. 

The easiest route to the chief ports on this coast is hy the steamship line (see 
Route 25) ; and the new Western-Counties Railway, from Yarmouth to Annapolis, 
will, when completed, furnish a still more expeditious line of travel. But many 
points on the Atlantic front of the Province are, and will be, accessible only by 
stages. This mode of travel is fully as arduous here as in other remote districts, and 
the accommodations for wayfarers are indifferent. 

Distances. — Halifax to St. Margaret's Bay, 21 M. ; Hubbard's Cove (McLean's), 
32 ; Chester, 45 ; Mahone Bay, 62 (branch to Lunenburg in 7 M.) ; Bridgewater, 70 ; 
Mill Village, 88; Liverpool, 97; Port Mouton, 107; Port Joli, 112; Sable River, 
122; Jordan River, 130 ; Shelburne, 137; Barrington, 157 ; Pubnico, 175 ; Tusket, 
191; Yarmouth, 201. (Certain facts ascertained while travelling over this route 
have led the Editor to state the distance between Bridgewater and Chester as 4 M. 
less than that given in the official itinerary.) 

Fares. — Halifax to Chester, $2.50; Mahone Bay, S3.50 (Lunenburg, |4); 
Bridgewater, $ 4 ; Liverpool, $ 6 ; Shelburne, $8.50; Barrington, $10 : Yarmouth, 
$12. 

The stage rattles up the hilly streets of Halifax at early morning, and 
traverses the wide commons N. of the Citadel, with formal lines of trees 
on either side. Beyond the ensuing line of suburban villas it descends to 
the level of the Northwest Arm (see page 100), along whose head it passes. 
The road then leads along the shores of the lakes whence Halifax draws 
its water-supply, and enters a dreary and thinly settled region. Dauphi- 
ney's Cove is at the head of * St. Margaret's Bay, one of the most beauti- 
ful bays on all this remarkable coast. It is 12 M. long by 6 M. Avide, and 
is entered by a passage 2 M. wide; and is supposed to have been named 
{Bale de Ste. Marguerite) by Champlain, who visited it in May, 1603. 
There are several small maritime villages on its shores, and the dark blue 
waters, bounded by rugged hills, are deep enough for the passage of large 
ships. The stage runs S. W. along the shore for 11 M., sometimes rolling 
alongside of beaches of dazzling white sand, then by shingly and stony 
strands on which the embayed surf breaks lightly, and then by the huts 
of fishermen's hamlets, with their boats, nets, and kettles by the road- 
side. Hubbard's Cove has a small inn, where passengers get their midday 
meals. 

There was an ancient water-route from this point to the Basin of Minas. 2 M. 
from the Cove is Dmtphiney\i Lake, which is 4 M. long, whence a carry of 1|^ M. leads 
into the Ponhook Lake, a river-like expanse 8 M. long, and nowhere so much as 1 
M. wide. A short outlet leads to the Blind Lake, which winds for 7 M. through the 
forests W. of the Ardoise Mt., and is drained by the St. Croix River, emptying into 
the Avon at Windsor. 

7 M. S. W. of Hubbard's Cove the stage crosses the East River, "a 
glorious runway for salmon, with splendid falls and cold brooks tumbling 
into it at intervals, at the mouth of which large trout can be caught two 
at a time, if the angler be skilful enough to land them when hooked." 
Frequent and beautiful views of Mahone Bay are now gained (on the I.), 
as the stage sweeps around its head and descends to 



CHESTER. Route 26. 127 

Chester (two good inns), a village of about 900 inhabitants, finely situ- 
ated on a hill-slope which overlooks the Chester Basin and Mahone Bay. 
It has three churches, and a pleasant summer society. This town was 
settled about the year 1760 by 144 New-Englanders, who brought an outfit 
of cattle and farming-tools. In 1784 they were joined by a large number 
of Loyalist refugees, but these were from the American cities, and soon 
-wearied of farming and returned out of exile. In the woods near the vil- 
lao-e is a thermal spring 8 ft. around, whence a soft alkaline water is dis- 
charged; and on the shoi'es of Sabbatee Lake are found deposits of kaolin, 
or white pipe-clay. 

Mr. Hallock is an enthusiastic admirer of this town, and says : " Three pleasant 
seasons have I spent at Chester. I idolize its very name. Just below my window a 
lawn slopes down to a httle bay with a jetty, where an occasional schooner lands 
some stores. There is a large tree, under which I have placed some seats ; and off 
the end of the pier the ladies can catch flounders, tomcods, and cunners, in any 
quantity. There are beautiful drives in the vicinity, and innumerable islands in 
the bay, where one can bathe and picnic to heart's-content. There are sailing-boats 
for lobster-spearing and deep-sea fishing, and row-boats too. From the top of a 
neighboring hill is a wonderful panorama of forest, stream, and cultivated shore, of 
bays and distant sea, filled with islands of every size and shape. And if one will go 
to Gold River he may perchance see, as I have done, caribou quietly feeding on the 
natural meadows along the upper stream. Beyond Beech Hill is a trackless forest, 
filled with moose, with which two old hunters hving near oft hold familiar inter- 
course." (The Fishing Tourist.) 

One of the pleasantest excursions in this disti-ict is to Deep Cove and 
Blandford, 16 M. from Chester, by a road which follows the shores of 
Mahone Bay. From Blandford the ascent of Mt. Aspotogon is easily ac- 
complished, and rewards the visitor by a superb marine * view, including 
the great archipelago of Mahone Bay, the deep, calm waters of St. Mai'- 
garet's Bay on the E., the broken and picturesque shores towards Cape . 
Sambro, and a wide sweep of the blue Atlantic. Visitors at Chester also 
drive down the Lunenbui'g and Lahave road, which aflbrds pretty sea- 
views. 

A rugged road leads across the Province to Windsor, about 40 M. N. , passing 
through an almost unbroken wilderness of hills, and following the course of the 
Avon Lakes and River. Semi-weekly stages run from Chester to Kentville (see 
page 90). 

* Mahone Bay opens to the S., E. and W. from Chester, and may be 
explored by boats or yachts from that village. It is studded with beau- 
tiful islands, popularly supposed to be 365 in number, the largest of which 
are occupied by cosey little farms, while the smaller oiies are covered with 
bits of forest. The mainland shores are nearly all occupied by prosperous 
farms, which are under the care of the laborious Germans of the county. 
The fogs prevail in these waters to a far less extent than on the outer 
deep, and it is not infrequently that vessels round the point in a dense 
white mist and enter the sunshine on the Bay. Boats and boatmen may 
be obtained at the villages along the shore, and pleasant excursions may 
be made among the islands, in pursuit of fish. " The unrivalled beauty 



128 Route 26. MAHONE BAY. 

of Mahone Bay" has been the theme of praise from all who have visited 
this district. In June, 1813, the line-of-battle-ship La Hogue and the 
frigate Orpheus chased the American privateer Young Teazer in among 
these islands.. Though completely overpowered, the Yankee vessel re- 
fused to surrender, and she was blown up by one of her officers. The 
whole crew, 94 in number, Avas destroyed in this catastrophe. 

Oak; Island is celebrated as one of the places where it is alleged that Capt. 
Kidd's treasure is hidden. About 80 years ago 3 New-Englanders claimed to have 
found here evidences of a buried mystery, coinciding with a tradition to the same 
effect. Digging down, they passed regular layers of flag-stones and cut logs, and 
their successors penetrated the earth over 100 ft. farther, finding layers of timber, 
charcoal, putty, West-Indian grass, sawed planks, and other curious substances, 
together with a quaintly carved stone. The pit became flooded with water, and was 
pumped out steadily. Halifax and Truro merchants invested in the enterprise, and 
great stone drains were discovered leading from the sea into the pit. After much 
money and labor was spent in the excavation, it was given up about 10 years ago, 
and the object of the great drains and concealed pit still remains a profound mys- 
tery. 

Big Tancook is the chief of the islands in this bay, and is about 2 M. long. It 
contains 500 inhabitants, who are engaged in farming and fishing. Between this 
point and Mt. Aspotogon is Little Tancook Island, with 60 inhabitants. These 
islands were devastated, in 1756, bj' the Indians, who killed 'several of the settlers. 

" This baj% the scenery of which, for picturesque grandeur, is not surpassed by 
any landscape in America, is about 10 M. broad and 12 deep, and contains within it 
a multitude of beautiful wooded islands, which were probably never counted, but 
are said to exceed 200." 

Soon after the Yarmouth stage leaves Chester "we come to Chester 
Basin, island-gemmed and indented with many a little cove ; and far out 
to sea, looming up in solitary grandeur, is Aspotogon, a mountain head- 
land said to be the highest land in Nova Scotia ( ? ). The road follows the 
shore for many a mile, and then turns abruptly up the beautiful valley of 
Gold River, the finest of all the salmon streams of this grand locality. In 
it there are eleven glorious pools, all within 2 M. of each other, and others 
for several miles above at longer intervals." 

Mahone Bay (Victoria Hotel) is a village of 800 inhabitants, situated on 
a pretty cove about 17 M. from Chester. It has 4 churches, and its inhab- 
itants are mostly engaged in fishing and the lumber-trade. In the vicinity 
are several other populous German settlements, and 7 M. S. is Lunenburg 
(see page 118). This point was known to the Indians by the name of 
Mushamush, and was fortified by the British in 1754. 

The stage now traverses a dreary inland region, inhabited by Germans, 
and soon reaches Bi'idgeicater (two inns), a thriving village on the Lahave 
Eiver, 13 M. from the sea. It has 1,000 inhabitants and 4 churches, and 
is largely engaged in the lumber-trade, exporting staves to the United 
States and the West Indies. The scenery of the Lahave River is at- 
tractive and picturesque, but the saw-mills on its upper waters have 
proved fatal to the fish (see page 119). The road now traverses a dismal 
region for 18 M., when it reaches Mill Village (small hotel), on the Port 
Medway River. This place has several large saw-mills and a match- 



LIVERPOOL LAKES. Routed. 129 

factory, and its population numbers about 400. It is near the Doran and 
Herringcove Lakes, and is 6 M. from the Third Falls of the Lahave. 9 M. 
S. W. is Liverpool (see page 120). 

From Liverpool to Yarmouth the road runs along the heads of the bays 
and across the intervening strips of land. The chief stations and their 
distances are given in the itinerary on page 126; the descriptions of the 
towns may be found in Route 25. 

27. The Liverpool Lakes. 

This system of inland waters is most easily reached from Halifax or St. John 
by passing to Annapolis Royal and there taking the stage which leaves at 6 a. m. 
daily. 

I>istances. — Annapolis; Milford,14 M. ; Maitland,27; Northfield,30 ; Kempt, 
85; Brookfield, 41; Caledonia Corner; Greenfield (Ponhook), 50; Middlefield, 56; 
Liverpool, 70. 

Soon after leaving Annapolis the stage enters the valley of Allen's Eiver, 
which is followed toward the long low range of the South Mt. At Milford 
(small inn) the upper reservoirs of the Liverpool River are met, and from 
this point it is possible to descend in canoes or flat-bottomed boats to the 
town of Liverpool, 60 M. distant. If a competent guide can be secured 
at Milford this trip can be made with safety, and will open up rare fishing- 
grounds. The lakes are nearly all bordered by low and rocky shores, with 
hill-ranges in the distance; and flow through regions which are as yet but 
little vexed by the works of man. The trout in these waters are abundant 
and not too coy ; though better fishing is found in proportion to the dis- 
tance to which the southern forest is entered. Mr. McClelland has been 
the best guide from Milford, but it is uncertain whether he will be avail- 
able this summer. 

Queen's and Lunenburg Counties form " the lake region of Nova Scotia. 
All that it lacks is the grand old mountains to make it physically as at- 
tractive as the Adirondacks, while as for game and fish it is in every way 
infinitely superior. Its rivers are short, but they flow with full volume 
to the sea, and yield abundantly of salmon, trout, and sea-trout. Its lakes 
swarm with trout, and into many of them the salmon ascend to spawn, 
and are dipped and speared by the Indians in large numbers." (Hal- 
lock.) 

" In the hollows of the highlands are likewise embosomed lakes of every variety 
of form, and often quite isolated. Deep and intensely blue., their shores fringed 
with rock bowlders, and generally containing several islands, they do much to di- 
versify the monotony of the forest by their frequency and picturesque scenery." 
(Capt. Hardy.) 

The Liverpool road is rugged, and leads through a region of almost un- 
broken forests. Beyond Milford it runs S. E. down the valleys of the 
Boot Lake and Fisher's Lake, with dark forests and ragged clearings on 
either side. Maitland is a settlement of about 400 inhabitants, and a few 
miles beyond is Northfield, whence a forest-road leads S. W. 6 M. to the 
6* I 



130 Rmte^. LIVERPOOL LAKES. 

shore of Fairy Lake, or the Frozen Ocean, a heautiful island-strewn sheet 
of water 4 M. long. 

The road now enters Broohfield, the centre of the new farming settle- 
ments of the North District of Queen's County. Several roads diverge 
hence, and in the vicinity the lakes and tributaries of the Liverpool and 
Port Medway Rivers are curiously interlaced. 5-6 M. S. E. is the Malaga 
Lake, which is 5 M. long and has several pretty islands. The road passes 
on to Greenfield, a busy lumbering- village at the outlet of Port Medway 
Great Lake. This long-drawn-out sheet of water is also skirted hy the 
other road, which runs S. from Brookfield through Caledonia Corner 
(small inn). The Ponhook Road is S. W. of Greenfield and runs down 
through the forest to the outlet of Ponhook Lake, '' the headquarters of 
the Micmacs and of all the salmon of the Liverpool River." This Lidian 
village is the place to get guides who are tireless and are familiar with 
every rod of the lake-district. From this point a canoe voyage of about 
8 M. across the Ponhook Lakes leads the voyager into the great * Lake 
Rossignol, which is 12 M. long by 8 M. wide, and affords one of the most 
picturesque sights in Nova Scotia. 

" A glorious view was unfolded as we left the run and entered the still water of 
the lake. The breeze fell rapidly with the sun and enabled us to steer towards the 
centre, from which alone the size of the lake could be appreciated, owing to the 
number of the islands. These were of every imaginable shape and size, — from the 
grizzly rock bearing a solitary stunted pine, shaggy with Usnea, to those of a mile 

in length, thickly wooded with maple, beech, and birches Here and there a 

bright spot of white sand formed a beach tempting for a disembarkation ; and fre- 
quent sylvan scenes of an almost fairy-land character opened up as we coasted along 
the shores, — little harbors almost closed in from the lake, overgrown with water- 
lilies, arrow-heads, and other aquatic plants, with mossy banks backed by bosky 
groves of hemlocks.'- (Capt. Hardy.) 

At the foot of Lake Rossignol is a wide oak -opening, with a fine greensward under 
groves of white oaks. Near this point the Liverpool River flows out, passing several 
islets, and affording good trout-fishing. In and about this oak-opening was the 
chief village of the ancient Micmacs of this region ; and here are their nearly obUt- 
erated burying-grounds. The site is now a favorite resort for hunting and fishing 
parties. The name Ponhook means " the first lake in a chain " ; and these shores 
are one of the few districts of the vast domains of Miggumdhghee, or " Micmac 
Land," that remain in the possession of the aborigines. From Ponhook 12 lakes 
may be entered by canoes without making a single portage. 

From Lake Rossignol the sportsman may visit the long chain of the 
Segum-Sega Lakes, entered from a stream on the N. W. shore (several 
portages), and may thence ascend to the region of the Blue Mts. and into 
Shelburne County. The Indian Gardens may also be visited thence, af- 
fording many attractions for riflemen. The Micmacs of Ponhook are the 
best guides to the remoter parts of the forest. There are several gentle- 
men in the town of Liverpool who have traversed these pleasant solitudes, 
and they will aid fellow-sportsmen loyally. The Indian village is only 
about 15 M. from Liverpool, by a road on the 1. bank of the river. 

Liverpool, see page 120. 



CHEZZETCOOK. Route 28. 131 

28. Halifax to Tangier. 

The Royal mail-stage leaves Halifax at 6 a. m. on Monday, Wednesday, and Fri- 
day (returning the alternate days!, for the villages along the Atlantic shore to the 
E. The conveyance is not good, and the roads are sometimes in bad condition, but 
there is pretty coast-scenery along the route. 

Distances. — Hahfax ; Dartmouth; Porter's Lake (Innis's), le^-g M. ; Chezzet- 
cook Road (Ormon's), 18>^ ; Musquodoboit Harbor, 28>^ ; Lakeville ( Webber's) 40; 
Ship Harbor, 48 ; Tangier, 56 ; Sheet Harbor, 74 ; Beaver Harbor, 84. ' 

After leaving Dartmouth, the stage runs E. through a lake-strewn coun- 
try, and passes near the gold-mines of Montague. Beyond the Little 
Salmon Eiver it traverses Preston, with the gold-bearing district of 
Lawrencetown on the S. The mines and placer-washings at this point 
drew large and enthusiastic crowds of adventurers in 1861 - 62, but they 
are now nearly abandoned. The road rounds the N. end of Echo Lake 
and ascends a ridge beyond, after which it crosses the long and river-like 
expanse of Porter's Lake, and runs through the post-village of the same 
narne. 3-4 M. to the S. E. is Chezzetcook Harbor, witii its long shores 
lined with settlements of flie Acadian French, whereof Cozzens writes : — 

" But we are again in the Acadian forest ; let us enjoy the scenery. The road we 
are on is but a few miles from the sea-shore, but the ocean is hidden from view by 
the thick woods. As we ride along, however, we skirt the edges of coves and inlets 
that frequently break in upon the landscape. There is a chain of fresh-water lakes 
also along this road. Sometimes we cross a bridge over a rushing torrent ; some- 
times a calm expanse of water, doubling the evergreens at its margin, comes into 
view ; anon a gleam of sapphire strikes through the verdure, and an ocean-bay with 
its shingly beach curves in and out between the piny slopes." 

Here " the water of the harbor has an intensity of color rarely seen, except in 
the pictures of the most ultramarine painters. Here and there a green island or a 
fishing-boat rested upon the surface of the tranquil blue. For miles and miles the 
eye followed indented grassy slopes that rolled away on either side of the harbor, 
and the most delicate pencil could scarcely portray the exquisite line of creamy sand 
that skirted their edges and melted off in the clear margin of the water. Occasional 
little cottages nestle among these green banks, — not the Acadian houses of the 
poem, 'with thatched roofs and dormer-windows projecting,' but comfortable, 

homely-looking buildings of modern shapes, shingled and un-weathercocked 

The women of Chezzetcook appear at daylight in the city of HaUfox, and as soon as 
the sun is up vanish like the dew. They have usually a basket of fresh eggs, a brace 
or two of worsted socks, a bottle of fir balsam, to sell. These comprise their simple 
commerce." 

Chezzetcook was founded by the French in 1740, but was abandoned during the 
long subsequent wars. After the British conquest and pacification of Acadia, many 
of the old famihes returned to their former homes, and Chezzetcook was re-occupied 
by its early settlers. They formed an agi'icultural community, and grew rapidly 
in prosperity and in numbers. There are about 250 families now resident about the 
bay, preserving the names and language and many of the primitive customs of the 
Acadians of the Basin of Minas. (See pages 108 and 113. ) 

The road passes near the head of Chezzetcook Harbor, on the r., and 
then turns N. E. between the blue waters of Chezzetcook Great Lake ( 1.) 
and Pepiswick Lake (r.). The deep inlet of Musquodohuit Harbor is sooa 
reached, and its head is crossed. This is the harbor where Capt. Hardy 
made his pen-picture of this romantic coast : — 

" Nothing can exceed the beauty of scenery in some of the Atlantic harbors of 
Nova Scotia, — their innumerable islands and heavily-wooded shores fringed with 



132 Route 28. TANGIER. 

the golden kelp, the wild undulating hills of maple rising in the background, the 
patches of meadow, and neat little white shanties of the fishermen's clearings, .... 
the fir woods of the western shores bathed in the morning sunbeams, the perfect 
reflection of the islands and of the little fishing-schooners, the wreaths of blue 
smoke rising from their cabin stoves, and the roar of the distant rapids, where the 
river joins the harbor, borne in cadence on the ear, mingled with the cheerful 
sounds of awakening hfe from the clearings." 

Near Musquodoboit are some valuable gold-mines, with two powerful 
quartz-crushing mills, and several moderately rich lodes of auriferous 
quartz. The stage soon reaches the W. arm of Jeddore Harbor, and then 
crosses the Le Marchant Bridge. The district of Jeddore has 1,623 in- 
habitants, most of whom are engaged in the fisheries or the coasting trade, 
alternating these employments with lumbering and shipbuilding. A long 
tract of wilderness is now traversed, and Ship Harbor is reached. A few 
miles N. W. is the broad expanse of Ship Harbor Lake, reaching nearly 
to the Boar's Back Ridge, and having a length of 12-14 M. and a width 
of 2 - 4 M. To the N. are the hills whence falls the Tangier River, to 
which the Indians gave the onomatopoetic name of AhmagopakegeeJc, 
v^rhich signifies "tumbling over the rocks." The post-road now enters 
the once famous gold-bearing district of Tangier. 

These mines were opened in 1860, and speedily became widely renowned, attract- 
ing thousands of adventurers from all parts of the Atlantic coast. For miles the 
ground was honeycombed with pits and shafts, and the excited men worked with- 
out intermission. But the gold was not found in masses, and only patience and 
hard woi'k could extract a limited quantity from the quartz, so the crowd became 
discontented and went to the new fields. Lucrative shorc-waEhings were engaged in 
for some time, and a stray nugget of Tangier gold weighing 27 ounces was shown in 
the Dublin Exposition. This district covers about 80 square miles, and has 12 lodes 
of auriferous quartz. The South Lode is the most valuable, and appears to grow 
richer as it descends. The mines are now being worked by two small companies, 
and their average yield is § 400 - 500 per miner each year. 

Beyond Tangier and Pope's Bay the post-road passes the head of Spry 
Bay, and then the head of Mushaboon Harbor, and reaches Sheet Harbor 
(Farnal's Hotel). This is a small shipbuilding village, at the head of the 
long harbor of the same name, and is at the outlets of the Middle and 
North Rivers, famous for their fine salmon fisheries. 

From this point a road follows the shore to the N. E. to Sherbrooke, about 50 M. 
distant, passing the obscure maritime hamlets of Beaver Harbor, Necum Tench, 
Ekum Sekum, Marie Joseph, and Liscomb Harbor. The back-country on all this 
route is yet desolate and unsettled. There are so many islands off the shore that 
this portion of the Atlantic is called the Bay of Islands (old French, Baie de Toules 
les Isles), although it is not embayed. 

Slierbrooke, see page 133. 



GUYSBOROUGH. Route 29. 133 



29. The Northeast Coast of Nova Scotia. 

This district is reached by passing on the Intercolonial Railway (see Routes 16 
and 17) from St. John or Halifax to New Glasgow, and thence taking the Royal 
mail-stage to Antigonish (see Route 32). 

From Antigonish a stage departs on Monday, Wednesday, and Friday 
mornings, running 40 M. S. (fare, $2) to Sherbrooke (two inns). This is 
a village on the 1. bank of the St. Mary's Eiver, the largest river in Nova 
Scotia, and is at the head of navigation on that stream. It is engaged in 
shipbuilding and in the exportation of deals and lumber. The town de- 
rives considerable interest from the fact that in the vicinity is one of the 
broadest and most prolific gold-fields in the Province. Goldenville is 3 M. 
from Sherbrooke, by a road which crosses the St. Mary's on a long bridge. 
This district co^^ers 18 square miles, and is the richest in the Province, 
having yielded as high as $2,000 per man per year, or about three times 
the average production of the best of the Australian mines. The aurifer- 
ous lodes are operated at jjioldenville only, where there are several quartz- 
crushers on a large scale. These mines were discovered in 1861, and on 
the first day over $ 500 Avorth of gold was found here. Systematic mining 
operations were soon commenced, and the yield of the precious metal has 
since been very satisfactory. 

The Wine-Harbor Gold-field is several miles S. E. of Sherbrooke, near the mouth 

of the St. Mary's River. The average yield per ton is small, yet the breadth and 
continuity of the lodes renders the work easy and certain. This district is seamed 
with abandoned shafts and tunnels, one of which is 700 ft. long. The first discovery 
of gold was made in 1860 in the sands of the sea-shore, and the quartz lodes on the 
N. B. side of the harbor were soon opened Of later years the Wine-Harbor district 
has greatly declined in popularity and productiveness. 

The Storviont Gold-fields are 33 M. N. E.'of Sherbrooke, and are most easily 
reached by direct conveyance from Antigonish. Gold was discovered here by the 
Indians in 1861, and occurs in thick layers of quartz. Owing to its remoteness, 
this region has remained undeveloped, and its total yield in 1869 was but 227 ounces 
($4,540). The chief village in the district is at the head of Country Harbor, a pic- 
turesque arm of the sea, 8 M. long and 2-3 M. wide. There are fine opportunities 
for shooting and fishing among the adjacent bays and highlands. All this shore 
was settled in 1783 - 4 by Loyalists from North and South Carohna. 

Guysborough and Cape Canso. 

Guysborough {Grant's Hotel) is reached by daily mail-stages from 
Heatherton, on the Halifax & Cape Breton Railway. After leaving the 
valley of the South River, the road passes through a rough and hilly region, 
and descends through the Intervale Settlement and Manchester to Guys- 
borough, a marine village at the head of Chedabucto Ba}'. It has about 
1,700 inhabitants, with a prosperous academy, and is the capital of Guys- 
borough County (named in honor of Sir Guy Carleton). It is engaged in 
shipbuilding and the fisheries, and has a good and spacious harbor. The 
noble anchorage of Milford Haven lies between the town and the bay. 



134 Route 30. SABLE ISLAND. 

A strong post was established at Chedabucto, on the site of Guysborough, inl636-, 
by M. Denys, who had spacious warehouses and a strong fort here, together with 
120 men. Here he received and supported the exiled children of D'Aulnay Char- 
nisay ; and here also he was vainly besieged for several days by La Giraudiere and 
100 men from Canso- In 1690 the works were held by De Montorgueuil, and vrere 
bravely defended against the attacks of the New-England army under Sir William 
Phipps. Finally, when the buildings of the fort were all in flames about him, the 
gallant frenchman surrendered, and was sent to Placentia with his soldiers. The 
ruins of the ancient fort are now to be traced near the mouth of the harbor. 

A bold ridge runs 31 M. E. from Guysborough along the S. shore of Ched- 
abucto Bay to Cape Canso, the most easterly point of Nova Scotia. A 
road folio v\rs the course of the bay to the fishing-village of Cape Canso, 
which has over 1,000 inhabitants and enjoys a profitable little export 
trade. Several islands lie off this extreme point of Nova Scotia, one of 
which bears two powerful white lights and a fog-whistle. Canso Harbor 
is marked by a fixed red light which is visible for 12 M. « 

Wliite Haven is on the S. side of the great peninsula of Wilmot, 30 M. from 
Guysborough, and is a small fishing settlement situated on one of the finest bays on 
the American coast. It was originally intended to have the Intercolonial Railway 
terminate here, and connect with the transatlantic steamships. The harbor is easy 
of access, of capacious breadth, and free from ice in winter. Its E. point is White 
Head, usually the first land seen by vessels crossing from Europe in this upper lati- 
tude, on which is a fixed white light. Just W. of ^V'hite Haven is the fishermen's 
hamlet of Molasses Harbor, near the broad bight of Tor Bay. 

30. Sable Island. 

The Editor inserts the following sketch of this remotest outpost of the Maritime 
Provinces, hoping that its quaint character may make amends for its uselessness to 
the summer tourist. It may also be of service to voyagers on these coasts who should 
chance to be cast away on the island, since no one likes to be landed suddenly in a 
strange country without having some previous knowledge of the reception he may 
get. 

A regular line of communication has recently been established between Sable 
Island and Halifax. The boats run once a year, and are chartered by the Canadian 
government to carry provisions and stores to the lighthouse people and patrols, 
and to bring back the persons who may have been wrecked there during the pre- 
vious year. 

Sable Island is about 90 M. S. E. of Cape Canso. It is a barren ex- 
panse of sand, without trees or thickets, and is constantly swept by storms, 
under whose powerful pressure the whole aspect of the land changes, by 
the shifting of the low dunes. The only products of this arid shore are 
cranberries, immense quantities of which are found on the lowlands. 

" Should any one be visiting the island now, he might see, about 10 M. distance, 
looking seaward, half a dozen low dark hummocks on the horizon. As he ap- 
proaches, they gradually resolve themselves into hills fringed by breakers, and by 
and by the white sea-beach with its continued surf, — the sand-hills, part naked, 
part waving in grass of the deepest green, unfold themselves, — a house and a barn 
dot the western extremitj^ — here and there along the wild beach lie the ribs of un- 
lucky traders half buried in the shifting sand Nearly the first thing the vis- 
itor does is to mount the flag-staff, and, climbing into the crow's-nest, scan the scene. 
The ocean bounds him everywhere. Spread east and west, he views the narrow 
island in form of a bow, as if the great Atlantic waves had bent it around, nowhere 
much above 1 M. wide, 26 M. long, including the dry bars, and holding a shallow 
lake 13 M. long in its centre. There it all lies spread like a map at his feet, — grassy 



SABLE ISLAND. Route 30. 135 

hill and sandy valley fading away into the distance. On the foreground the outpost 
men galloping their rough ponies into headquarters , recalled by the flag flying over 
his head ; the West-end house of refuge, with bread and matches, firewood and 
kettle, and directions to find water, and headquarters with flag-staff on the adjoin- 
ing hill. Every sandy peak or grassy knoll with a dead man's name or old ship's 
tradition, — Baker's Hill,Trott's Cove, Scotchman's Head, French Gardens, — tra- 
ditionary spot where the poor convicts expiated their social crimes, — the little 
burial-grotind nestling in the long grass of a high hill, and consecrated to the re- 
pose of many a sea-tossed limb ; and 2-3 M. down the shallow lake, the South-side 
house and barn, and staff and boats lying on the lake beside the door. 9 M. farther 
down, by the aid of a glass, he may view the flag-stafl'at the foot of the lake, and 5 
M. farther the East-end lookout, with its staff and watch-house. Herds of wild 
ponies dot the hills, and black-duck and sheldrakes are heading their young broods 
on the mirror-like ponds. Seals innumerable are basking on the warm sands, or 
piled like ledges of rock along the shores. The Glasgow''s bow, the Maskonemet''s 
stern, the East Boston^s hulk, and the grinning ribs of the well-fastened Guide, are 
spotting the sands, each with its tale of last adventure, hardships passed, and toil 
endured. The whole picture is set in a silver-frosted frame of rolling surf and sea- 
ribbed sand." 

"Mounted upon* his hardy pony, the solitary patrol starts upon his lonely way. 
He rides up the centre valleys, ever and anon mounting a grassy hill to look sea- 
ward, reaches the West-end bar, speculates upon perchance a broken spar, an empty 
bottle, or a cask of beef struggling in the land-wash, — now fords the shallow lake, 
looking well for his land-range, to escape the hole where Baker was drowned ; and 
coming on the breeding-ground of the countless birds, his pony's hoof with a reck- 
less smash goes crunching through a dozen eggs or callow young. He fairly puts 
his pony to her mettle to escape the cloud of angry birds which, arising in countless 
numbers, dent his weather-beaten tarpaulin with their sharp bills, and snap his 
pony's ears, and confuse him with their sharp, shrill cries. Ten minutes more, and 
he is holding hard to count the seals. There they lay, old ocean's flocks, resting 
their wave -tossed Mmbs, — great ocean bulls, and cows, and calves." (Da. J. B. 
Gilpin. ) 

For over a century Sable Island has been famous for its wild horses. They num- 
ber perhaps 400, and are divided into gangs which are under the leadership of the 
old males. They resemble the Mexican or Ukraine wild horses, in their large heads, 
shaggy necks, sloping quarters, paddling gait, and chestnut or piebald colors Once 
a year the droves are all herded by daring horsemen into a large pound, where 20 or 30 
of the best are taken out to be sent to Nova Scotia. After the horses chosen for ex- 
portation are lassoed and secured, the remainder are turned loose again. 



Since Sable Island was first sighted by Cabot, in 1497, it has been an object of 
terror to mariners. Several vessels of D'Anville's French Armada were lost here ; 
and among the many wrecks in later days, the chief have been those of the ocean 
steamship Georgia and the French frigate U Africaine. 

In the year 1583, when Sir Humphrey Gilbert was returning from Newfoundland 
(of which he had taken possession in the name of the EngUsh Crown), his little fleet 
became entangled among the shoals about Sable Island. On one of these outlying 
bars the ship Delight struck heavily and dashed her stern and quarters to pieces. 
The officers and over 100 men were lost, and 14 of the crew, after drifting about in a 
pinnace for many days, were finally rescued. The other vessels, the Squirrel and the 
Golden Hind, bore off to sea and set their course for England. But when off the 
Azores the Squirrel was sorely tossed by a tempest (being of only 10 tons' burden), 
and upon her deck was seen Sir Humphrey Gilbert reading a book. As she swept 
past the Golden Hind, the brave knight cried out to the captain of the latter : 
" Courage, my lads, we are as near heaven by sea as by land." Aboutmidnight the 
Squirrel plunged heavily forward into the trough of the sea, and went down with 
all on board. Thus perished this " resolute soldier of Jesus Christ, .... one of the 
noblest and best of men in an age of great men." 

In 1508 a futile attempt at colonizing Sable Island was made by " Le Sieur Baron 
de Leri et de St. Just, Vic^mte de Gueu." But he left some live-stock here that 
afterwards saved many lives. 

In the year 1598 the Marquis de la Roche was sent by Henri IV. to America, car- 
rying 200 convicts from the French prisons. He determined to found a settlement 



136 Route 31. NEW GLASGOW. 

on Sable Island, and left 40 of his men there to commence the -work. Soon after, 
De la Roche was forced by stress of storm to return to France, abandoning these 
unfortunate colonists. VVithout food, clothing, or wood, they suffered intensely, 
until partial relief was brought by the wrecking of a French ship on the island. For 
seven years they dwelt in huts built of wrecked timber, dressed in seal-skins, and 
living on fish. Then King Henri IV. sent out a ship under Chedotel, and the 12 
survivors, gaunt, squalid, and long-bearded, were carried back to France, where they 
were pardoned and rewarded. 

An attempt was made about the middle of the 16th century to colonize Cape Bre- 
ton in the interests of Spain, but the fleet that was transporting the Spaniards and 
their property was dashed to pieces on Sable Island. 

31. St. John and Halifax to Pictou. 

By the Pictou Branch Railway, which diverges from the Intercolonial Railway at 
Truro. 

Stations. — 'S'^ John to Pictou. St. John to Truro, 215 M. ; Yalley, 219; 
Union, 224; Riversdale, 228; West River, 23G ; Glengarry, 243; Hopewell, 260; 
Stellarton, 255; New Glasgow, 258 ; Pictou Landing, 266 ; Steamboat AV'harf, 267. 

Stations- — Halifax to Pictou. Halifax to Truro, 61 M. ; Valley, 65 ; Union, 
70; Riversdale, 74 ; West River, 82 ; Glengarry, 89 ; Hopewell, 96; Stellarton, 101 ; 
New Glasgow, 104 ; Pictou Landing, 112 ; Steamboat Wharf, 113. 

St. John to Truro, see Eoutes 16 and 17. 

Halifax to Truro, see Eoute 17 (reversed). 

The train runs E. from Truro, and soon after leaving the environs, enters 
a comparatively broken and uninteresting region. On the 1. are the roll- 
ing foot-hills of the Cobequid Eange, and the valley of the Salmon Kiver 
is followed hj several insignificant forest stations. Rlvtrsdcde is surrounded 
by a pleasant diversity of hill-scenery, and has a spool-factory and a con- 
siderable lumber trade. 14 M. to the N. is the thriving Scottish settlement 
oi Earltown. Beyond West Eiver the train reaches Glengarry, which is 
the station for the Scottish villages of New Lairg and Gairloch. Hopewell 
(Hopewell Hotel) has small woollen and spool factories ; and a short dis- 
tance beyond the line approaches the banks of the East Eiver. 

Stellarton is the station for the great Albion Mines, which are con- 
trolled (for the most part) by the General Mining Association, of London. 
There is a populous village here, most of whose inhabitants are connected 
•with the mines. The coal-seams extend over several miles of area, and 
are of remarkable thickness. They are being worked in several pits, and 
would doubtless return a great revenue in case of the removal of the re- 
strictive trade regulations of the United States. In the year 1864 over 
200,000 tons of coal were raised from these mines. 

New Glasgow (three inns) is a town of 2,500 inhabitants, largely en- 
gaged in shipbuilding and having other manufactures, including foundries 
and tanneries. It is favorably situated on the East River, and has large 
coal-mines in the vicinity. Here are the main offices and W. terminus of 
the Halifax & Cape Breton Railway, running 75 M. E. to the Strait of 
Canso. 

The train now descends by the East River to Fisher's Grant, opposite 
the town of Pictou, to which the passengers are conveyed by terry. 



PICTOU. RoiLteSl. 137 

Pictou (Eureka / Waverley ; Revere, etc.) is a flourishing town on the 
Gulf shore, with 3,500 inhabitants, six churches, a masonic hall, two 
weekly papers, the public buildings of Pictou County, three banks, 
a handsome Y. M. C. A. building, and the Pictou Academy, founded on 
the plan of a Scottish University in 1818, and now occupying a large and 
handsome new building, with museum, library, convocation hall, etc. 
Tiie harbor is the finest on the S. shore of the Gulf, and can accommodate 
ships of any burden, having a depth of 5-7 fathoms. The town occupies 
a commanding position on a hillside over a small cove on the N. side of 
the harbor; and nearh^ opposite, the basin is divided into three arms, into 
which flow the East, Middle, and West Rivers, on which are the ship- 
ping wharves of the Albion, Intercolonial, Acadia, and Vale Coal Com- 
panies, whence immense quantities of coal are exported. There is very 
pleasant scenery in the vicinity of Pictou, and good sea-bathing on the 
adjacent beaches. 

Pictou has a large coasting trade; is engaged in shipbuilding; and has 
a marine-railway. It has also tobacco-factories, carding-mills, several 
saw and grist mills, a foundry, and three or four tanneries. But the chief 
business is connected with the adjacent mines and the exportation of coal, 
and with the large freestone quarries in the vicinity. 

Stages leave Pictou several times weekly, for River John, Tatamagouche, Wallace, 
Pugwash, and Amherst (see page 81). Steamships leave (opposite) Pictou forChar- 
lotretown, Summerside, and Shediac, on IVIonda}^ Wednesday, and Friday, on the 
arrival of the Halifax train (see Route 44) ; also for the Gulf ports and Quebec, every 
Tuesday at 7 A. m. , and alternate Fridays at 1 p. m. (see Route 63) ; also for Port Hood 
and the Magdalen Islands (see Route 49) ; and for Hawkesbury and the Strait of 
Canso. 

After the divine Glooscap (see page 106) had left Newfoundland, where he conferred 
upon the loons the power of weirdly crying when they needed his aid, he landed at 
Pictou (from Piktook, an Indian word meaning " Bubbling," or "' Gas-exploding," 
and referred to the ebullitions of the water near the great coal-beds). Here he 
created the tortoise tribe, in this wise : Great festivals and games were made in his 
honor by the Indians of Pictook,but he chose to dwell with a homely, lazy, and 
despised old bachelor named Mikchickh, whom, after clothing in his own robe and 
giving him victory in the games, he initiated as the progenitor and king of all the 
tortoises, smoking him till his coat became brown and as hard as bone, and then re- 
ducing his size by a rude surgical operation. 

The site of Pictou was occupied in ancient times by a populous Indian village, 
and in 1763 the French made futile preparations to found a colony here. In 1765, 
200,000 acres of land in this vicinity were granted to a company in Philadelphia, 
whence bands of settlers came in 1767 - 71. Meantime the site of the town had been 
given to an army officer, who in turn sold it for a horse and saddle. The Pennsyl- 
vanians were disheartened at the severity of the climate and the infertility of the 
soil, and no progress was made in the new colony until 1773^ when the ship Hector 
arrived with ISO persons from the Scottish Highlands. They were brought over by 
the Philadelphia company, but when they found that the shore lands were all 
taken , they refused to settle on the company^s territory, and hence the agent cut 
off their supply of provisions. They subsisted on fish and venison, with a little 
flovir from Truro, until the next spring, when they sent a ship-load of pine-timber 
to Britain, and planted wheat and potatoes. Soon afterwards they were joined by 
15 destitute families from Dumfriesshire ; and at the close of the Revolutionary War 
many disbanded soldiers settled here with their families. In 1786 the Rev. James 
McGregor came to Pictou and made a home, and as he was a powerful preacher in 



138 Route 32. ANTIGONISH. 

the Gaelic language, many Highlanders from the other parts of the Province moved 
here, and new immigrations arrived from Scotland. In 1788 the town was com- 
menced on its present site by Deacon Patterson, and in 1792 it was made a shire=- 
town. Great quantities of lumber were exported to Britain between 1805 and 1820, 
during the period of European convulsion, when the Baltic ports were closed, and 
while the British navy was the main hope of the nation. The place was captured in 
1777 by an American privateer. Coal was discovered here in 1798, but the exporta- 
tion was small until 1827, when the General Mining Association of London began 
operations. 

J. W. Dawson, LL. D. , F. R. S., was born at Pictou in 1820, and graduated at the 
University of Edinburgh in 1840. He studied and travelled with Sir Charles Lyell, 
and has become one of the leaders among the Christian scientists. His greatest work 
was the " Acadian Geology." For the past 20 years he has been Principal of the 
McGill College, at Montreal. 

32. St. John and Halifax to the Strait of Canso and Cape 

Breton. 

By the Halifax and Cape Breton Railway. 

This comparatively new route leaves the Intercolonial Railway (Pictou Branch) 
at New Glasgow (see page 136), 104 M. from Halifax, and 258 M. from St. John, and 
runs down to the Strait of Canso, where it connects with a steam ferry-boat to Cape 
Breton, and with steamboats to various ports on the island. A trip eastward by this 
route, and a voyage on the Bras d'Or, gives a deeply interesting excursion. 

Stations. — New Glasgow to Glenfalloch, 5J M. ; Merigomish, 9| ; French 
River, 13i; Piedmont, 18 ; Avondale, 22 ; Barney's River, 23^; Marshy Hope, 26 ; 
James River, 30^ ; Brierly Brook, 34| ; Antigonish, 40 ; South River, 45 ; Taylor's 
Road, 47; Pomquet, 50; Heatherton, 52i ; Afton, 56 ; Tracadie, 60; Giroirs, 61^ ; 
Little Tracadie, 65 ; Harbor au Bouche, 69 ; Cape Porcupine, 69; Strait of Canso, 
74 ; Wylde's Cove, 75. 

Express-trains run daily, leaving New Glasgow after the arrival of the train from 
Halifax. 

On reaching the open cotintn^ beyond New Glasgow, the road passes on 
for several miles through an unintei'esting region of small farms and recent 
clearings. At the crossing of the Sutherland River, a road diverges to the 
N. E., leading to Merigomish, a shipbuilding hamlet on the coast, with a safe 
and well-sheltered harbor. In this vicinity are iron and coal deposits, the 
latter of which are worked b\' the Merigomish Coal Mining Company, with 
a capital of $ 400,000. Beyond the hamlet at the crossing of French River, 
— " which may have seen better days, and will probably see. worse," — 
the road ascends a long ridge which overlooks the Piedmont Valley to the 
N. E. Thence it descends through a sufficiently dreary country to the 
relay-house at Marshy Hope. 

" The sun has set when we come thundering down into the pretty Catholic village 
of Aiitigonisli, the most home-like place we have seen on the island- The twin 
stone towers of the unfinished cathedral loom up large in the fading light, and the 
bishop's palace on the hill, the home of the Bishop of Arichat, appears to be an im- 
posing white barn with many staring windows People were loitering in the 

street; the young beaux going up and down with the belles, after the leisurely 
manner in youth and summer. Perhaps they were students from St. Xavier Col- 



ANTIGONISH. Route 32. 139 

lege, or visiting gallants from Guysborough. They look into the post-office and the 
fancy store. They stroll and take their little provincial pleasure, and make love, 
for all we can see, as if Antigonish were a part of the world. How they must look 
down on Marshy Hope and Addington Forks and Tracadie ! What a charming place 
to live in is this 1 '■ (Baddeck.) 

Antigonish 1 (two good inns), the capital of the county of the same 
name, is situated at the head of a long and shoal harbor, near St, 
George's Bay. Some shipbuilding is done here, and many cargoes of 
cattle and butter are sent hence to Newfoundland. On the E. shore of the 
harbor are valuable deposits of gypsum, which are sent away on coasting- 
vessels. The inhabitants of the village and the adjacent country are of 
Scottish descent, and their unwavering industry has made Antigonish a 
prosperous and pleasant town. The College of St. Francis Xavier is the 
Diocesan Seminary of the Franco-Scottish Diocese of Arichat, and is the 
residence of the Bishop. It is a Catholic institution, and has six teachers. 
The Cathedral of St. Ninian was begun in 1867, and was consecrated Sep- 
tember 13, 1874, by a Pontifical High Mass, at which 7 bishops and 30 
priests assisted. It is in the Roman Basilica style, 170 by 70 ft. in area, 
and is built of blue limestone and brick. On the facade, between the tall 
square towers, is the Gaehc inscription, Tighe Dhe ("the House of God"). 
The arched roof is supported by 14 Corinthian columns, and the interior 
has numerous windows of stained glass. The costly chancel-window rep- 
resents Christ, the Virgin Mary, and St. Joseph. There is a large organ, 
and also a chime of bells named in honor of St. Joseph and the Scottish 
saints, Ninian, Columba, and Margaret, Queen of Scotland. This splen- 
did structure is not too large for the numerous congregation every Sunday 
from the village and surrounding country, mostly Highland-Scotch, 
who frequently hear sermons in their own Gaelic tongue from the Cathe- 
dral pulpit. A few yards from the Cathedral there is a neat three- 
story building recently erected for a Ladies^ Academy, to be conducted 
by the Montreal Sisters of the Congregation. The other denominations 
having churches in Antigonish are the Presbyterians, the Anglicans, and 
the Baptists.-. The Presbyterian Church, on Main Street, is a handsome 
structure with a tall spire. The village has two branch banks and two 
weekly newspapers, — The Aurora, the organ of the Bishop of Arichat, 
and The Casket. The county has a population of 18,100, devoted chiefly 
to agricultural pursuits. Its capital is a pretty village with pleasant 
drives in the vicinity. Nearly all the people of the county do their shop- 
ping in the village, and hence the numerous stores along its main street, 
some of them large brick buildings. The harbor is ill-suited for shipping, 
but the railway now supplies the deficiency. 

1 Antigonish, — accent on the last syllable. It is an Indian word, meaning "the River of 
Fish." 



140 Route S2. TEACADIE. 

Stages run daily from Antigonish S. to Sherbrooke by Lochaber and College Lake. 
N. \V. of the Tillage are the bold and picturesque highlands long known as the 
Antigonisli Mts., projecting from the liae of the coast about 15 M. N. into 
the Gulf. They are, in some places, 1,000 ft. high, and have a strong and -well- 
marked mountainous character. Semi-weekly stages run N. from Antigonish to 
Jforristoi(7?i and Gdor^eyiWe, respectively 10 and 18 M. distant. 8-10 M. N. of 
the latter is the bold promontory of Cape St. George, on which, 400 ft. above 
the sea, is a powerful revolving white light, which is visible for 25 M. atFea. From 
this point a road runs S. \V. to Midujiiatit Cove, which is also acces,<-ible by a ro- 
mantic road through the hills from Antigonish. This is a small seaside hamlet, 
which derives its name from the fact that H. B. M. frigate Ilalignant was once 
caught in these narrow waters during a heavy storm , and was run ashore here in order 
to avoid being dashed to pieces on the iron-bound coast beyond. 4-5 M. beyond 
the Cove is Arisaisf, a romantically situated settlement of Scottish Catholics, who 
named their new home in memory of Arisaig, in the Western Highlands. It has a 
long wooden pier, under whose lee is the only harbor and shelter against east-winds 
between Antigonish and Merigomish. 

The first important station between Antigonish and the Strait is 
Heatherton, a Franco-Scotch district of 2,000 inhabitants. A dail}' stage 
connects the railway at this station with Guysborour/h, a town on the 
Atlantic coast, about 20 M. S. of Heatlierton, and the capital of the 
county of Guysborough (see page 133). Tracaclie is in a French district 
of 1,180 inhabitants. There is a monastery here, pertaining to the aus- 
tere order of the Trappists. Most of the monks, between 40 and 50 in num- 
ber, are from Belgium. They are excellent farmers, and have their land 
thoroughly cultivated. There is also a Convent of Sisters of Charity in 
the vicinity. The people of Tracadie, like all the 41,219 French inhab- 
itants of Nova Scotia, belong to the old Acadian race, whose sad and 
romantic history is alluded to on pages 108 and 113. "And now we 
passed through another French settlement, Tracadie, and again the Nor- 
man kirtle and petticoat of the pastoral, black-eyed Evangeline appear, 
and then pass like a day-dream." (Cozzens.) 

Harbor au Bouche is a French district of 2,140 inhabitants. The village 
is out of sight of the station, on St. George's Bay, and has two churches 
and two inns. Beyond this point the line soon reaches its terminus, on the 
Strait of Canso, Avhere passengers for Cape Breton take steamers. 



CAPE beeto:n". 



The island of Cape Breton is about 100 M. long by 80 M. wide, and has 
an area of 2,000,000 acres, of which 800,000 acres consist of lakes and 
swamps. The S. part is low and generally level, but the N. portion is 
very irregular, and leads off into unexplored highlands. The chief natural 
peculiarities of the island are the Sydney coal-iields, which cover 250 
square miles on the E. coast, and the Bras d'Or, a great lake of salt water, 
ramifying through the centre of the island, and communicating with the 
sea by narrow channels. The exterior coast line is 275 M. long, and is 
provided with good harbors on the E. and S. shores. 
^ The chief exports of Cape Breton are coal and fish, to the United States; 
timber, to England; and farm-produce and live-stock to Newfoundland. 
The commanding position of the island makes it the key to the Canadas, 
and the naval power holding these shores could control or crush the com- 
merce of the Gulf The upland soils are of good quality, and produce 
valuable crops of cereals, potatoes, and smaller vegetables. 

The Editor trusts that the following extract from Brown's " History of 
the Island of Cape Breton" (London: 1869) will be of interest to' the 
tourist : " The summers of Cape Breton, say from May to October, may 
challenge comparison with those of any country within the temperate 
regions of the world. During all that time there are perhaps not more 
than ten foggy days in any part of the island, except along the southern 
coast, between the Gut of Canso and Scatari. Bright sunny days„ with 
balmy westerly winds, follow each other in succession, week after week, 
while the midday heats are often tempered by cool, refreshing sea-breezes! 
Of rain there is seldom enough; the growing crops more often suffer from 
too little than too much," 

"To the tourist that loves nature, and who, for the manifold beauties by 
hill and shore, by Avoods and waters, is happy to make small sacrifices of 
personal comfort, I would commend Cape Breton. Your fashionable, 
whose main object is company, dress, and frivolous pleasure with the gay' 
and whose only tolerable stopping-place is the grand hotel, had better 
content himself with reading of this island." (Noble. ) 

The name of the island is derived from that of its E. cape, which was 
given in honor of its discovery by Breton mariners. In 1713 the French 
authorities bestowed upon it the new name of VIsle Royale, during the 



142 Route 33. THE STRAIT OF CANSO. 

reign of Louis XIV. At this time, after the cession of Acadia to the Brit- 
ish Crown, many of its inhabitants emigrated to Cape Breton ; and in 
August, 1714, the fortress of Louisbourg was founded. Pnring the next 
half-century occurred the terrible Avars between France and Great Britain, 
whose chief incidents were the sieges of Loiiisbourg and the final demoli- 
tion of that redoubtable fortress. In 1765 this island was annexed to the 
Province of Nova Scotia. In 1784 it was erected into a separate Province, 
and continued as such lantil 1S20, when it was reannexed to Nova Scotia. 
In 1S15 Cape Breton had about 10,000 inhabitants, but in 1S71 its popula- 
tion amounted to 75,503, a large proportion of whom were from the Scot- 
tish Highlands. 

33. The Strait of Canso. 

The Gut of Canso, or (as it is now more generally called) the Strait of 
Canso, is a picturesque passage which comiects the Atlantic Ocean with 
the Gulf of St, Lawrence, and separates the island of Cape Breton from 
the shores of Nova Scotia. The banks are high and mountainous, covered 
with spruce and other evergreens, and a succession of small white ham- 
lets lines the coves on either side. This grand avenue of commerce 
seems worthy of its poetic appellation of " The Golden Gate of the St. 
Lawrence Gulf." It is claimed that more keels pass through this channel 
every year than through any other in the world except the Strait of Gib- 
raltar. It is not only the shortest passage between the Atlantic and the 
Gulf, but has the advantage of anchorage in case of contrary winds and bad 
weather. The shores are bold-to and free from dangers, and there are sev- 
eral good anchorages, out of the current and in a moderate depth of water. 
The stream of the tide usually sets from the S., and runs in great swirling 
eddies, but is much influenced by the winds. The strait is described by 
Dawson as " a narrow transverse valley, excavated by the currents of the 
drift period," and portions of its shores are of the carboniferous epoch. 

The Strait of Canso is traversed by several thousand sailing-vessels every year, and 
also by the lai-ge steamers of the Boston and Colonial Steamship Company. 

" So -with renewed anticipations we ride on toward the strait ' of xmrivalled 
beauty,' that travellers say ' surpasses anything in America.' And, indeed, Canseau 
can have my feeble testimony in confirmation. It is a grand marine highway, hav- 
ing steep hills on the Cape Breton Island side, and lofty mountains on the other 
shore ; a full, broad, mile-wide space between them ; and reaching, from end to end, 
fifteen miles, from the Atlantic to the Gulf of St. Lawrence." (Cozzess.) 

Vessels from the S., bound for the Strait of Canso, first approach the 
Nova-Scotian shores near Cape Canso (see page 134), Avhose lights and 
islands are rounded, and the course lies between N. W. and W. N. W. 
towards Eddy Point. If a fog prevails, the steam-whistle on Cranberry 
Island will be heard giving out it^Botes of warning, sounding for 8 seconds 
in each minute, and heard for 20 M. with the wind, for 15 M. in calm 



POKT HASTINGS. Route 33. 143 

weather, and 5 - 8 M. in stormy weather and against the wind. On the I. 
is Chedabucto Bay, stretching in to Guysborough, lined along its S. shore 
by hills 3 - 700 ft. high ; and on the r. the Isle Madame is soon approached. 
28-30 M. beyond Cape Canso the vessel passes Eddy Point, on which are 
two fixed white lights (visible 8 M.). On the starboard beam is Janvria 
Island, beyond which is the broad estuary of Habitants Bay. On the 
Cape-Breton shore is the hamlet of Bear Point, and on the 1. are Melford 
Creek (with its church), Steep Creek, and Pirate's Cove. The hamlets of 
Port Mulgrave and Port Hawkesbury are now seen, nearly opposite each 
other, and half-way up the strait. 

Port Mulgrave (two inns) is a village of about 400 inhabitants, on the 
Nova-Scotia side of the strait. It is engaged in the fisheries, and has a 
harbor which remains open all the year round. Gold-bearing quartz is 
found in the vicinity; and bold hills tower above the shore for a long dis- 
tance. A steam ferry-boat plies between this point and Port Hawkesbury, 
li M. distant, in connection with the Halifax and Cape-Breton liaihvay, 
running down from New Glasgow, througii Antigonish (see page 138). 

Port Hawkesbury {Ilwwkt&bury Hottl, comfoi-table; Acadia Hotel) is a 
village of about 900 inhabitants, on the Cape-Breton side of the strait. It 
is situated on Ship Harbor, a snug haven for vessels of 20-ft. draught, 
marked by a fixed red light on Tupper Point. This is the best harbor 
on the strait, and has very good holding-ground. The village is of a scat- 
tered appearance, and has four small churches. There are several wharves 
here, which are visited by the Boston and Halifax steamers, and other 
lines. Stages run hence to Sydney, Arichat, and West Bay, on the Bras 
d'Or; and a railway has been surveyed to the latter point. The steam- 
ships that ply between Boston and Prince Edward Island weekly, call at 
Port Hawkesbury. 
i Port Hastings (more generally known as Plaster Cove) is about 3 M. 
j above Port Hawkesbury, on the Cape-Breton shore, and is built on the 
\ bluffs over a small harbor in which is a Government wharf. From this 
/ point the Cape-Breton mails are distributed through the island by means 
of the stage-lines. The village is much smaller than Port Hawkesbury, and 
has a lucrative country-trade, besides a large exportation of fish and cat- 
tle to Newfoundland and the United States. It derives its chief interest 
from being the point where the Atlantic-Cable Company transfers its mes- 
sages, received from all parts of Europe and delivered under the sea, to 
the Western Union Telegraph Company, by Avhich the tidings are sent 
away through the Dominion and the United States, The telegraph-office 
is in a small building near the strait. The hotel at this village has been 
justly execrated in several books of travel, but occupies a noble situation, 
overlooking, from a high bluff, the Strait of Canso for several miles to 
I the S. E. Near this building is the consulate of the United States, over 
I which floats the flag of the Republic. 



144 Route 33. CANSO. 

Nearly opposite Port Hastings is the bold and shaggy headland of Cape 
Porcupine, attaining a height of 640 ft., and contracting the strait to its 
narrowest part. The stream now widens slowly, with 16-20 fathoms of 
water, and at its N. entrance (W. side) the steamer passes a lighthouse, 
which sustains a powerful fixed white light, 110 ft. above the water, and 
visible from Cape St. George to Port Hood. 

Canso was in the earlier days called Campseau, or Canseau, and the word is 
derived from the Indian Camsoke, which signifies " facing the frowning cliffs." It 
is also claimed that the name is derived from the Spanish word Ganso, signifying 
''goose," in allusion to the great flocks of wild geese sometimes seen here. Here 
the Micmac traditions locate the marvellous transit of the divine Glooscap (see page 
106), who was stopped by these deep waters while on his way to attack a mighty wiz- 
ard in Newfoundland. He sunmioned from the sea a whale, who tore him across 
the strait, like a new Ariou, and landed him on the Breton shores. 

For many years the Strait of Canso was called the Passage de Fronsac, on all the 
old French maps and charts, in honor of the Sieur de Fronsac, the able and enter- 
prising Governor of Cape Breton ; and in 1518, over a century before Plymouth was 
founded, it was visited by the Baron de Lery, who designed forming a settlement on 
these shores, and left a considerable number of swine and cattle here. Savalette 
frequented this vicinity, for the purposes of fishing, from the year 1563; and in 
1604 Do Monts found here four Basque ships (from St. Jean do Luz) trading with 
the Indians. Three years later a Dutch vessel entered Canso, and excited the terri- 
ble hostility of tlie Indians by rifling the graves of their dead in order to strip off 
the beaver-skins in which the corpses were wrapped Poutgrave cruised about these 
waters for a long time, protecting the monopolized fur- trade. 

A fortress and rendezvous for fishermen was soon established near Cape Canso, at 
the harbor of Canso. In 1G88 the Canso station and the sedentary fishery were 
plundered by an expedition from Boston, consisting of a crew of West-Indian pri- 
vateersmen. They entered these waters in a 10-gun vessel called a barcalonga, and 
carried away a French ship from the harbor. After the conquest of Acadia, the 
New-England fishermen occupied the harbor of Canso, and erected dwellings and 
•warehouses. In 1720 the settlements were attacked at night by powerful Indian 
bands, and completely plundered, though most of the fishermen escaped to their 
vessels. Tliey loaded several French vessels with the proceeds of the raid, and then 
retired to the forest. In 1722 the Massachusetts fishing-vessels were captured here bj 
the Indians, and were followed by armed vessels of that Province, who retook them 
after a naval battle. H. M. S. Scjiiirrel seized some illegal French traders here in 
1718 ; and in 1724 a prize-vessel -was boarded by the savages in the Gut of Canso, and 
all its crew were killed or captured. During the subsequent peace New England had 
1,500 - 2,000 men here in the fisheries, and in 17o3, 46,000 quintals of dry fish were 
exported hence. When the Mar-clouds were lowering, in 1737, the British had 100 
soldiers in garrison here, and II. M. S. ELtham was kept in the Strait as a guai'd- 
Rhip. In 1744 M. Duvivier attacked Canso at the head of 670 men, French Aca- 
dians and Micmacs, and soon captured and destroyed it. In 1745 Peppered reached 
Canso with 8 regiments of Massachusetts troops and New-IIampshire and Connecti- 
cut regiments, and here he remained for some weeks, drilling his men and erecting 
fortifications. At a later day Conmiodore Warren arrived here with the British 
West-Indian fleet, the Superb^ 60, Lauiiceston, 40, Mermaid, 40, Eltliam, and other 
ships. 

The British war-vessel Little Jack, 6 guns, was cruising about the Strait of Canso in 
1781, when she met two Marblehead privateers. Secuiing a favorable posiuon near 
Petit de Grat, a shore-battery was formed, and the cutter was anchored with springs 
on her cable. After a sharp action, one of the privateers was crippled and forced to 
Burrender, and the o'Jier made haste to escape. The Americans were paroled at Petit 
de Grat, and the vessel was taken to Quebec. 

After the close of the American Ptcvolution, the S. end of the Strait of Canso was 
occupied by a colony of Loyalists from Florida, who suflercd terribly from the com- 
parative inclemency of the climate. The present inhabitants of these shores are 
mostly of Scottish descent, a hardy and intrepid people. So late as the year 1787 
there was not one settler on the Bret»n side of the strait, and the immigration has 
mostly occurred during the present century. 



ARICHAT. Route S4. 145 



34. Arichat and Isle Madame. 

A mail-stage runs daily from Port Hawkesbiuy to Arichat, 30 M. S. E., 
passing near the sea-shore hamlets of Caribacou and Lower River Inhab- 
itants, and approaching the Scottish village of Grand Anse. At the French 
fishing-settlement of Grand Digue, the passenger is ferried across the 
Lennox Passage, a long and picturesque strait which separates Isle 
]\Iadame from the Breton shores. Steamers run from Halifax to Arichat. 

Isle Madame is 16 M. in length from E. to W., and about 5 M. in 
breadth. Its surface is very irregular, though of but moderate elevation, 
4nd the central part is occupied by a small lake. It was settled over a 
ctjntury ago, by exiles from Acadia, whose descendants now occupy the 
la.lid, and are pious Catholics and daring seamen. 

Ijii 1760 the Trench explorer of Isle Madame found 113 inhabitants here, " who 
liv/e as they can," on a sterile soil, and barely maintaiuect by some petty fisheries. 
n/e closes his account by saying, " \Ve quitted this country with no regret, except 
tlKat we must leave there so many miserable people." 

I Arichat (two indifferent inns) is the capital of Richmond County, and 
-Is the most important fishing-station between Halifax and St, John's, New- 
joundland. It has over 1,000 inhabitants, most of whom are of Acadian- 
^ French origin, and are connected in some way with the sea. The fisheries 
(■ of which this port is the centre are connected with the great establish- 
1 pents on the Isle of Jersey (in the English Channel), like those of Cheti- 
( pamp, Gasp^, and Paspebiac. There is also an American firm located 
1 liere, engaged in the canning of lobsters. The town is scattered along the 
£ jteep N. shore of a spacious and secure harbor, which is sheltered by 
t perseyman Island, and is "capable of containing any number of the largest 
■fihips." The spacious Catholic church in the W. part of the town is pro- 
vided with a chime of bells, and is the seat of the Coadjutor Bishop of 
Arichat, whose diocese includes Cape Breton and the E. counties of Nova 
Scotia. It is claimed that "The Sisters of the Congregation of Notre 
Dame, of Montreal, have a grand and flourishing academy for female edu- 
cation of the highest order in the town of Arichat." E. of the cathedral is 
the Richmond County Court-House, surmounted by a cupola. There are 
also an English academy and an Anglican church in the town. On the 
S. W. is seen the lighthouse, bearing a fixed red light, which guides mari- 
ners through the Crid Passage and into the harbor. 

To the W. is the settlement of Little Arichat, extending along the coast 
for several miles, and having undeveloped coal deposits. There are over 
1,600 inhabitants in this town, all of whom are French. 3-4 M. E. of 
Arichat is the Acadian fishing-hamlet of Petit de Grat, with neai'ly 2,000 
inhabitants; and D'Escousse is another place of similar pursuits, on the 
other side of the Bay of Rocks. 

7 J 



146 Route 35. ST. PETER'S. 

35. The Strait of Canso to Sydney, C. B. 

By the way of the land, through St. Peter^s. 

The Royal mail-stage leaves Port Hawkesbury every morning, some time after the 
arrival of the Antigonish stage, and runs E. and N. E. to Sydney. Fare* f 5. This 
is one of the most arduous routes by -which Sydney can be approached, and leads 
through a thinly settled and uninteresting country until St. Peter's is reached. 
Beyond that point there is a series of attractive views of the Great Bras d'Or and St. 
Andrew's Channel, continuing almost to Sydney. 

Distances. — (Port Hastings to Port Hawkesbury, 4-5 M.) Port Hawkesbury 
to Grand Anse, 21 M. ; St. Peter's, 35 ; Red Island, 52; Irish Cove, 64; Sydney, 

There is but little to interest the traveller during the first part of the 
journey. After leaving Port Hawkesbury, the stage enters a rugged and 
unpromising country, leaving the populous shores of Canso and pushing 
E. to the River Inhabitants. Crossing that stream where it begins to nar- 
row, the road continues through a region of low bleak hills, with occasional 
views, to the r., of the deeper coves of the Lennox Passage. Before noop^ 
it reaches the narrow Haulover Isthmus, which separates St. Peter's Bay^, 
on the Atlantic side, from St. Peter's Inlet, on the Bras d' Or side. At this 
point is situated the village of St. Peter's (two inns), a Scottish settlement 
near the bay. The canal which has been constructed here to open com4 
munication between the Atlantic and the Bras d'Or is ^ M. long, 26 ftj 
wide, and 13 ft. deep, and is expected to be of much benefit to the Bras 
d'Or villages. It has been finished within a few years, and pertains to the 
Government, which takes a small toll from the vessels passing through.. 
S. E. of St. Peter's are the blufl; heights of Mt. Granville, and to the N. W.i 
are the uninhabited highlands which are called on the maps the Sporting 
Mts. 

St. Peter's was founded by M. Denys, about the year 1636, to command the lower 
end of the Bras d'Or, as his post at St. Anne's commanded the upper end. He built 
a portage-road here, opened farm-lands, and erected a fort which mounted several I 
cannon. The Indians residing on the most remote arms of the Bras d'Or were thus 
enabled to visit and carry their furs and fish to either one of Denys's forts. Denys ) 
himself, together with the fort, the ship, and all other property here, was captured I 
soon after by a naval force sent out by M. le Borgne. But in 1656 Denys retook his ' 
posts, guarded by a charter from King Louis. A few years later St. Peter's was 
captured by La Giraudiere, but was afterwards restored to Denys, who, however, 
abandoned the island about 1670, when all his buildings at this post were destroyed 
by fire. In 1737 St. Peter's was fortified by M. de St. Ovide, the commandant at 
Louisbourg ; but during the New-England crusade against the latter city, in 1745, 
it was captured and plundered by Col. Moulton's Massachusetts regiment. In 1752 
St. Peter's was the chief depot of the fur-trade with the Micmacs, and was sur- 
rounded with fruitful farms. It was then called Port Toulouse, and was connected 
with Louisbourg by a military road 18 leagues in length, constructed by the Count 
de Raymond. Besides the garrison of French troops, there was a civil population 
of 230 souls ; and in 1760 Port Toulouse had grown to be a larger town than even 
Louisbourg itself. The King of France afterwards reprimanded the Count de Ray- 
mond for constructing his military road, saying that it would afford the English an 
opportunity to attack Louisbourg on the landward side. 

From the Strait of Canso to Grand River the coast is occupied by a line of humble 
and retired villages, inhabited by Acadian-French fishermen. 7-8 M. S. E. of St. 
Peter's are the L''Ardoise settlements (so named because a slate-quarry was once 
worked here). In 1750 there was'^k large French village here, with a garrison of 



THE BRAS D'OR. Route 35. 147 

troops, and L'Ardoise was the chief depot of the fur-trade with the Indians. At 
Grand River the character of the population changes, though the names of the set- 
tlement would indicate, were history silent, that the towns beyond that point were 
originally founded by the French. They are now occupied exclusively by the Scotch, 
whose light vessels put out from the harbors. of Grand River, L'Archeveque, St. 
Esprit, Blancherotte, Framboise, and Fourchu, on which are fishing-villages. 

A few miles N. E. of St. Peter's the stage crosses the Indian Eeserva- 
tion near Louis Cove. Chapel Island is a little way off shore, and is the 
largest of the group of islets at the mouth of St. Peter's Inlet. These 
islands were granted by the government, in 1792, to the Micmac chiefs 
Bask and Tomma, for the use of their tribe, and have ever since been re- 
tained by their descendants. On the largest island. is a Catholic chapel 
where all the Micmacs of Cape Breton gather, on the festival of St. Anne, 
every year, and pass several days in religious ceremonies and aboriginal 
games. Beyond this point the road runs N. E. between Soldier's Cove and 
the bold highlands on the r. and traverses the Red-Island Settlement, off 
which are the Red Islands. 

" The road that skirts the Arm of Gold is about 100 M. in length. After leaving 
Sydney you ride beside the Spanish River a short distance, until you come to the 
portage, which separates it from the lake, and then you follow the delicious curve 

of the great beach until you arrive at St. Peter's There is not a lovelier ride 

by white-pebbled beach and wide stretch of wave. Now we roll along amidst pri- 
meval trees,— not the evergreens of the sea-coast, but familiar growths of maple, 
beech, birch, and larches, juniper, or hackmatack, —imperishable for shipcraft ; 

now we cross bridges, over sparkling brooks alive with trout and salmon To 

hang now in our curricle, upon this wooded hill-top, overlooking the clear surface 
of the lake, with leafy island, and peninsula dotted in its depths, in all its native 
grace, without a touch or trace of handiwork, far or near, save and except a single 
spot of sail in tbe far-off, is holy and sublime." (Cozzens.) 

(, About 10 M. beyond the Red Island Settlement is the way-office and vil- 
lage at Irish Cove, whence a road runs 10 - 12 M. S. E. across the highlands 
jto the Grand-River Lake, or Loch Lomond, a picturesque sheet of water 
16-6 M. long, studded with islets and abounding in trout. The Scottish 
hamlets of Loch Lomond and Lochside are on its shores; and on the N., 
and connected by a narrow strait, is Loch Uist. The road crosses the 
lake and descends to Framboise Harbor, on the Atlantic coast. 

N. of Loch TJist, and about 7 M. from the Bras d'Or, is a remarkable saline spring, 
[containing in each gallon 343 grains of chloride of sodium, 308 of chloride of cal- 
;cium, and 9 of the chlorides of magnesium and potassium. This water i.^ singularly 
(free from sulphurous contamination, and has been found very efficient in cases of 
', asthma, rheumatism, and chronic headache. There are no accommodations for 
visitors. 

About 6 M. N. W. of Irish Cove is seen Benacadie Point, at the entrance 

'j to the East Bay, a picturesque inlet of the Bras d'Or, which ascends for 

i 18-20 M, to the N. E., and is bordered by lines of bold'heights. Near its 

•; N. shore are several groups of islands, and the depth of the bay is from 

,8 to 82 fathoms. The stage follows its shore to the upper end. Above 

Irish Cove the road lies between the bay and a mountain 600 ft. high, be- 

jyond which is Cape Hhumore. 3-4 M. farther on is Loch an Fad, beyond 

Which a roadside chapel is seen, and the road passes on to EdoobekuTc^ 



148 Route 36. THE BKAS D'OR. 

between the heights and the blue water. The opposite shore (4 M. dis- 
tant) is occupied by the Indians, whose principal village is called Escasoni, 
and is situated near the group of islands in Crane Cove. The bay noAV 
diminishes to 2 M in width, and is followed to its source in the lagoon of 
Tweednogie. Tlie aggregate number of inhabitants, Scottish and Indian, 
along the shores of the East Bay, is a little over 2,000. The stage crosses 
the narrow isthmus (4-5 M.), and then follows the line of the Forks 
Lake and the Spanish River, to the town of Sydney. 
Sydney, see page 150. 



36. Halifax to Sydney, Cape Breton. 

By the Sea. 

There are several routes by sea between Halifax and Sydney, the fares being 
S 8-10. The tourist should send a note to the steamship-agents, at Halifax, for par- 
ticulars. 

The easiest route from Boston is by steamship to Port Hawkesbury, on the Strai*^ 
of Canso, and thence up the Bras d'Or. qjJ 

There are now several steamboats plying on the Bi-as d'Or, giving the best c 
facilities (from the Provincial point of view) for visiting the various ports and villf^" 
ges of this lovely inland sea. {"t I 

a» 
le 



Halifax Harbor, see page 93. 

The course of the steamship is almost always within sight of land, ; " 
cold, dark, and rock-bound coast, off which are submerged ledges on* 
which the sea breaks into white foam. This coast is described in Routes 
28 and 29 ; but of its aspect from the sea the Editor can say nothing, as 
he was obliged to traverse the route as far as Canso by night. i 

After passing the bold headland of Cape Canso, the deep bight of Ched- 
abucto Bay is seen on the W., running in to Guysborough and the Strait 
of Canso. Between Cape Canso and Red Pomt, on Cape Breton, the open- 
ing is about 30 M. wide, inside of which are Isle Madame (Route 34) and 
St. Peter's Bay. The course of the vessel, after ci'ossing this wide open- 
ing, converges toward the Breton coast, which is, however, low and with- 
out character, and is studded with white fisliing-hamlets. St. Esprit is 
visible, with its little harbor indenting the coast. 

About the middle of the last century the British frigate Tilbury, 64, was caught 
on this shore during a heavy gale of wind, and was unable to work off, in spite of 
the utmost exertions of her great crew. The Tilbury Rocks, off St. Esprit, still 
commemorate the place where she finally struck and went to pieces. 200 sailors 
V ere cither drowned br killed by being dashed on the sharp rocks, and 200 men and 
15 officers were saved from the waves by the French people of St. Esprit, who nour- 
ished and sheltered them with tender care. England and France being then at war, 
the survivors of the Tilbury'' s crew were despatched to France as prisoners, on the 
French frigate Hermione. This vessel was, however, captured in the Enghsh Chan- , 
nel, and the sailors were released. 

Beyond St. Esprit the coves of*Frambo'se and Fourchu make in from - 



CAPE BRETON. Route 36. 149 

the sea, and above the deep inlet of Gabarus Bay the lighthouse of Louis- 
bourg (see Route 38) may perhaps be seen. 

lu 1744 the French ships Notre Dame de la Delivrance, Louis iSrasme, and Marquis 
cfAntin sailed from Callao (Peru), with a vast amount of treasure on board, con- 
cealed under a surface-cargo of cocoa. The two latter were captured off the Azores 
by the British privateers Priri'-e Frederick and Duke, but during the 3 liours' action 
the Notre Dame escaped. Not diring to approach the French coast while so many 
hostile privateers were cruising about, she crowded all sail and bore away for Louis- 
bourg. 20 days later she sighted Scatari,and it seemed that her valuabl; cargo 
was already safe. But she was met, a short distance to the S , by a Britisli fleet, 
and became a prize. Among the people captured on the Notre Damn was Don 
Antonio d'Ulloa, the famous Spanish scientist, who was kept here in light captivity 
for two months, and who afterwards wrote an interesting book about Capo Breton. 
The lucky vessels that made the capture were the Sunderland, Boston, and Chester, 
and their crews had great prize-money, — for over $4,000,000 was found on the 
Notre Dame, in bars and ingots of gold and silver. 

In 1756 the French frigate Arc-en- del, 50, and the Amitie were captured in these 
waters by H. B M. ships Centurion VLud Success. In July, 1756, the French vessels 
Heros, 74, lllitslre, 64, and two 33-gun frigates met H B. M. ships Grafton, 70, Not- 
tingham, 70, and the Jaynair.a sloop, and fought from mid-afternoon till dark. The 
action was indecisive, and each fleet claimed that the other stole away at night. 
The loss of men on both sides was considerable. 

In May, 1745, a gall-mt naval action was fought hereabouts between the French 
ship-of-the-line Vigilant and Com. Warren's fleet, consisting of the Superb (60-gun 
ship), and the Launceston, Mermaid, and E'tham (;40-gun frigates). The Vigilant \va,3 
carrying a supply of military goods from Brest to Louisljourg, and met the Mer- 
maid, standing off and on in the fog. The latter made sail and fled toward the 
squadron, and the Vigilant swept on in the fog and ran into the midst of the 
British fleet. Warren's ships opened fire on every side, but the French captain, 
the Marquis de Maisonforte, refused to surrender, though his decks were covered 
with stores and his lower batteries were below the water-line by reason of the heavy 
cargo. The battle was terrific, and lasted for 7 hours, while Maisonforte kept his 
colors flying and his cannon roaring until all his rigging was cut away by the British 
shot, the rudde.' was broken, the forecastle battered to pieces, and great numbers 
of the crew wounded or dead. 

The steamship now runs out to round Scatari, traversing waters which 
{maintain a unifoi-m depth of over 30 fathoms. On the W. is the promon- 
(tory of Cape Breton, from which the island receives its name. It is a low 
Iheadland, off which is the dark rock of Porto Nuevo Island. 

There is an old French tradition to the effect that Yerazzano, the eminent Floren- 
tine navigator, landed near Cape Breton on his last voyage, and attempted to found 
a fortified settlement. But being suddenly attacked and overpowered by the Indians, 
himself and all his crew were put to death in a cruel manner. It is known to his- 
tory that this discoverer was never heard from after leaving France on his last voy- 
age (in 1525). 

It is beheved that Cape Breton was first visited by the Marigold (70 tons), in 
1503 ; whereof it is written : " Here diners of our men went on land vpon the very 
icape, where, at their arriuall they found the spittes of oke of the Savtages which had 
roasted meate a httle before. And as they viewed the count-rey they saw diners 

■ be-istes and foules, as blacke foxes, deeres, otters, great foules with redde legges, pen- 
guines, and certaine others." Thence the Marigold sailed to the site of Louisbourg, 

■ where her crew landed to get water, but were driven off shore by the Indians. 

The cape probably owes its name to the fact of its being visited by the Breton and 

) Basque fishermen, who in those days frequen>ed these seas. Cape Breton was at 

J that time a prosperous commercial city, near Bayonne, in the South of France. It 

was fi-equented by the Huguenots about this time, and had large fleets engaged in 

the fisheries. By the changing of the course of the Adour River, and the drifting of 

I sand into its harbor, its maritime importance was taken away, and in 1841 it had but 

' 920 inhabitants. (Dictionnaire Ency eloped ique.) 

In 1629 Lord Ochiltree, the son of the Earl of Arran, came out with 60 colonists, 



150 Route 36, SYDNEY. 

and founded a town on the harbor of Baleine, S. E. of Cape Breton. The headstrong 

Scottish noble was aibitrary in his dealings with the French fishermen on the coast, 
and was soon attacked by a Ftrong body of Normans. The armor-clad Scots for a 
time defended their fort bravely, but were at last compelled to surrender, and were 
carried off as ])rif-oners, including Lord Ochiltree, who was plundered of all that he 
posf:e3L?cd, and v.as gent to France in the hold of the Grrat fit. Andrew. 

In 1725 the French frigate Lr CliamcuK, GO, was wrecked on Porto Nuevo Island, 
and all on board were lost. Among tlie.'e unfortunate people were M dc ChaTOl, 
Intendant cf (Janada; M de Louvigny, Governor of Trois lliviercs, numerous other 
colonial dignitaiics, and feveral ecflesiastics. " This misfortune in the course of a 
single niglit brought more grief and loss upon the French colonies than they had 
Bufiered during £0 years of warfare." (Charlevoix.) 

Scatari Island is about 5 M. N. E. of Cape Breton, and lies on the 4Cth 
parallel of N. latitude. It is a rock -bound island, 8 by 4 M. in area, and 
is a favorite resort of sea-birds. On the E. point is a powerful revolving 
white light, and on the W. end is a fixed red light. The Halifax and Syd- 
ney steamers sometimes run inside of Scatari, through the Main-a-Dieu 
(orMenadou) Passage, near the obscure fisliing-hanilet of Main-a-Dleu. 
N. and W. of Scatari is the wide, deep, and unsheltered Mira Bay. 

After crossing the broad moutli of Miru Bay, the shallower biglit of Cow 
Bay is seen on the 1. The vessel steams to tlie N., by the dark and rug- 
ged rock o^ Flint Island, and then runs about N. W. by the great coal-dis- 
tricts of C^/ace Tyr/?/ and jLzn^rm (sec Route 37). Rounding the lighthouse 
on Low Point (or Flat Point), she ascends Sydney Harbor, passing the 
mines and villages of the Victoria Company on the 1., and the great shafts 
and works, hamlets and churches, of the General Mining Association on 
the r. After running by the lighthouse on the S. E. Bar, the opening of 
the W. Arm is seen, and the steamer soon reaches her wharf at Sydney. 

Sydney, formerly the capital of the Island-Province of Cape Breton,! 
occupies a fivorablc position on one of the finest harbors on th^ Atlantic! 
coast, and is the chief town of the island. It has about 3,000 inhabitants,! 
•with 6 churches, 2 newspapers, a masonic hall, and the Court-House of,, 
Cape Breton County. The principal article of trade is coal, of which vast I 
quantities are brought by railways to this harbor, whence they are sent 
away on vessels. Cattle and provisions are also exported from this point Ij 
to St. Pierre and Newfoundland. Near the water's edge is a white build- \ 
ing, surrounded by balconies and adjoined by a broad pier and a flag-staff. 
This little estate is the headquarters of the French fleet in the North At-: 
lantic, and is kept with true man-of-war's-man's neatness. There is',/ 
usually a frigate of this fleet lying off the village, and their bands fre- , 
quently play in the town. There is a pleasant view over the harbor from ! ' 
the old fort on Barrack Point. , 

It is usually said of a fair harbor anywhere in the Australian or Ameri- ' 
can colonies, that it "is capable of containing the whole British navy." 
This remark has been made concerning Sydney Harbor by the best I 
authority, Capt. Bayfield, R. J^, the marine surveyor who made the \ 



NORTH SYDNEY. Route 36. 151 

Admiralty charts for the British North -American coast. The deep water 
continues above the wharves, and as far up as Sydney Bridge. Over 600 
vessels called at this port in the summer of 1874, most of which were here 
freighted with coal. The harbor is usually ice-bound during the winter, 
from Jan. 1 to April 1, and on this account is less valuable than others 
more to the S. 

The town of Sydney is not attractive in its external aspects, though it is said that 
its society is of a high order of culture and exclusive dignity. It possesses many of 
the social attributes of an old colonial capital, though there are now no vestiges of its 
former position save the deserted barracks and decaying batteries. The stranger ia 
Sydney will be able to see all that he cares to of the town in less than an hour, for 
it is devoid of interest, notwithstanding the prominent position which it holds in 
the world's marine intelligence and shipping news. Svdney is 750 M. from New 
York, 600 M. from Boston, 240 M. from Halifax, 400 M. from St. John's (N. F.), 
and 720 M. from Quebec. 

Railroad-trains run from Sydney to Lo isbourg (see page 154) ; stages, to Lingan, 
Little Glace Bay, and Cow Bay ; ferry-boats to N. Sydney ; steamboats to Baddeck, 
the Bras d'Or, and the Strait of Oauso ; and steamships to St. John's (Newfound- 
land), Halifax, etc. 

There are several small hoteH and hoarding-houses at Sydney and N. Sydney, but 
the large and comfortable hotel .wliich tlie custom of the locality seems to warrant 
has not yet been built. The steamship officers can recommend the best stopping- 
places. 

NorthL Sydney is 6 - 8 M. N. W. of Sydney, with which it is connected 
by the steant ferry-boat Lady of the Lake, making three trips daily. It 
is a busy and dingy little place, and has several tanneries, a shoe-factory, 
and the shipping-dppots of the S3^dney coal-mines. There are several 
taverns, of the most inferior order. The marine-railway at this point was 
for many months occupied by the hulks and wrecked vessels which 
were left along the coast after the Lord's-Day Gale. About 4 M. N. W. is 
the French Village on the Little Bras d'Or; and a road runs 30 M. S. W. 
over the uninhabited highlands of the peninsula of St. Andrews, to the 
Grand Narrows, on the Bras d'Or Lake. 

The harbor of Sydney was visited in 1587 by the Englisli ship Hopewell, whicii 
drove out a Biscayan vessel and plundered all the fish-stages along the shore. Many 
savages here visited the ship, " among whom was their king, whose name was Itary, 
and their qucene, to whom also we gaue coats and kniues and other tritles. These 
Sauages called the harborow Cibo. In this place are the greatest multitude of 
lobsters that euer we heard of ; for we caught at one hawle with a little draw 
net aboue 140." This harbor soon received the name of Bale des Espagnols, be- 
cause diu'ing the troublous times of the 16th century, it was the favorite resort of 
the Spanish fishermen, as Louisbourg was of the English, and St. Anne's of the 
French. 

In 1696 the French frigates UEwieux and Pro fond, commanded by the valiant 
Iberville, entered tlie harbor of Sydney, and smnmoned to its shores the Indian 
warriors of Cape Breton. A chosen force of Micmacs were soon embarked, and then 
they sailed away to the destruction of Pemaquid. This was also the station of the 
powerful French squadron under the Ohcvaiicr du Palais. After Admiral Walker's 
terribly disastrous voyage in the Gulf {in 1711), the remainder of his fleet was 
gathered together here, and it is said that the 42 war-vessels then assembled formed 
the most powerful naval armament ever seen in these waters. They lay in the 
roadstead, abreast of Lloyd's Cove, and the Admiral had the following pompous in- 
scription erected on the shore : — 

'•^ In nomine Patris, Filii,et SpiritiU Sancti, Amen. Omnibus in Christi Fideli- 
bus Salutem. Anna, Dei Gratics, Magn. BritannicB, FrancicB, et HibernicB^ Regina ; 



152 Routes?. THE SYDNEY COAL-FIELDS. 

ToHusque Americce Septentrionalis Domina, Fidei Defensor, etc. In CvjM harum 
insularum vulgo Cape Breton, Proprietatis et Dominii Testimonium, Hoc Erexit 
Monumeyitum, Sucb Majestatis Servus, et Subditus fidelissitnus, D. Hovenden 
Walker, Egues Auratvs, Omnium in America Navium Regalium, Ptrnfectus et 
Thalassiarcha. Monte Septembris, Anno iS'aZM«2,s MDCCXI." 

The first civil governor of Cape Breton after its severance from Nova Scotia (1784) 
was Major Desbarres, a veteran of the campaigns of the Mohawk Valley, Lake George, 
Ticonderoga, Louisbourg, and Quebec. One of his chief steps was to select a site for 
the new capital of the island, and the location chosen was the peninsula on the S. 
arm of the capacious harbor called Spanish River. The seat of government thus 
established was named Sydney, in honor of Lord Sydney, Secretary of State for the 
Colonies, who had erected Cape Breton into a separate Province. In the spring of 
1785 the Loyalists under Abraham Cuyler (ex-Mayor of Albany, N. Y.) came from 
Louisbourg to Sydney, cut down the forests, and erected buildings. 

In 1781 a sharp naval battle was fought off Sydney Harbor, between the Prench 
frigates UAstiee and UHerrn'one (of 44 guns each) and a British squadron consist- 
ing of the Cliarlestown, 28, Allegiance, 16, Vulture, 16, Little Jack. 6, and the armed 
transport Vernon. 16 coal-ships which were under convoy of the British fleet fled 
into Sydney harbor, while the frigates rapidly overhauled the escort and brought on 
a general engagement. After a long and stubborn action, the Little JizcA; surren- 
dered, and the remainder of the fleet would have shared the same fate, had it net 
been for the approach of night, under whose shelter the shattered British vessels 
bore away to the eastward and escaped. They had lost 18 men killed and 28 
wounded. The senior captain of the victorious French vessels was La Perouse, Avho 
started in 1788, with two frigates, on a voyage of discovery around the world, but 
•was lost, with all his equipage, on the Isle of Vanikoro. 



37. The East Coast of Cape Breton.— The Sydney Coal- 

Fields. 

The Sydney Mines are on the N. side of Sydney Harbor, and are con- 
nected with N. Sydney by a coal-railway and also by a daily stage (fare, 
75c.). They are on the level land included between the Little Bras d'Or. 
and the harbor of Sj'dney, and are worked by the General Mining Asso- 
ciation of London. Nearly 500 men are employed in the pits, and the vil- 
lage has a population of 2,500. 

The International Mines are at Bridgeport, 13 M. N. E. of Sydney, and 
are connected with that harbor by a railway that cost $ 500,000. The sea- 
shore is here lined with rich coal-deposits, extending from Lingan Harbor 
to Sydney. It is probable that the submarine mining, which has already 
been commenced, will follow the carboniferous strata far beneath the sea. 

The Victoria Mines are W. of this district, and near Low Point, 9 M. 
from Sydney. The company has a railway which extends to their freight- 
ing station on Sydney Harbor, and is at present doing a prosperous busi- 
ness. 

The Lingan Mines are near Bridgeport, and are reached by a tri-weekly 
stage from Sydney (15 M. ; fare, $1.50). Lingan is derived from the 
French word L'Indienne, applying to the same place. It was occupied 
and fortified by the British early in the 18th centurj^, and a garrison of 
50 men was stationed here to guard the coal-mines. At a later day the 
French army at Louisbourg was supplied with large quantities of coal 
from this point, and several carg&es were sent away. During the summer 



THE SYDNEY COAL-FIELDS. Route 37. 153 

of 1752 the mine was set on fire, and the fort and buildings were all 
destroyed. 

The Little Glace Bay Mines are 18 M. from Sydney, and are reached 
by a tri-weekly stage (fare, $1). They are situated on Glace Bay and 
Glace Cove, and about Table Head, and are carried on by a Halifax com- 
pany, which employs 300 miners. The deposits are very rich along this 
shore, and extend far out beneath the sea. 

The Gowrie and Block-House Mines are on Cow Bay, and are among the 
most extensive on this coast. They are 22 M. from Sydney, and are 
reached by a tri-weekly stage. They employ over 600 men, and have 
formed a town of 2,000 inhabitants. Large fleets gather in the bay for 
the transportation of the coal to the S., and while lying here ai-e in con- 
siderable peril during the prevalence of easterly gales, which have a full 
sweep into, the roadstead. Nearly 70 vessels were wrecked here during 
the Lord's-Daj^ Gale, and th-e shores were strewn with broken hulks and 
many yet sadder relics of disaster. The S. portal of the bay is Cape 
Morien, and on the N. is Cape Ferry, off which is the sea-surrounded Flint 
Island, bearing a revolving white light. 

The coal-beds of Cape Breton were first described by Denys, in 1672, and from 
1677 to 1690 he had a royalty of 20 sous per ton on all the coal that was exported. 
Some of it was taken to France, and great quantities were sent into New England. 
In 1720 a mine was opened at Cow Bay, whence the French army at Louisl)ourg 
■was supplied, and numerous cargoes were shipped to Boston." Between 1745 and 
1749 the British garrison at Louisbourg was abundantly supplied with fuel from 
mines at Burnt Head and Little Bras d'Or, which were protected against the Indians 
by fortified outposts. The Abb6 Raynal says that there was " a prodigious demand 
for Cape-Breton coal from New England from the year 1745 to 1749." But this trade 
was soon stopped by the British government, and only enough mining was done to 
supply the troops at Louisbourg and Halifax. The " coal-smugglers " still carried 
on a lucrative business, slipping quietly into the harbors and mining from the great 
seams in the face of the cliffs. In 1785 the Sydney vein was opened by Gov. Des- 
barres, but its profitable working was prevented by heavy royalties. The Imperial 
Government then assumed the control, and its vessels captured many of the light 
craft of the smugglers. In 1828 the General Mining Association was formed in Lon- 
don, and secured the privilege of the mines and minerals of Nova Scotia and Cape 
Breton from the Duke of York, to whom they had been granted by King George IV. 
Under the energetic management of the Association the business increased rapidly, 
and became profitable. Between 1827 and 1857 (inclusive), 1,931,634 tons of coal 
were mined in Cape Breton, of which 605,008 tons were sent to the United States. 
Between 1857 and 1870 there were sold at the mines 3,323,981 tons. By far the 
greater part of these products came from the Sydney field, but of late years consid- 
erable exportations are being made from the mines at Glace Bay, Cow Bay (Block- 
House), Gowrie, and Lingan. The Caledonia, Glace Bay, and Block-House 'coals are 
used for making gas at Boston and Cambridge, and the gas of New York is made 
from International, Glace Bay, Caledonia, and Block-House coals. 



" In travelling from Hawkesbury to Port Hood, and Baddeck and back again, by 
the Bras d'Or Lakes, one traverses a country in some places thickly settled, but all 
apparently well settled by a race of men physically the superior of any other on the 
face of this continent. They are chiefly of Highland Scotch descent, with a sprink- 
ling of French Canadians, and as a matter of course nearly all Roman Catholics iu 
their religious belief. . . . The Cape Bretoners seem to be very prolific in the propaga- 
tion of their species. No immigration is wanted here ; only give them time, and 
they will compass the same ends themselves. Nothing under ten children is consid- 
ered a large family, and those who fall short of this generally consider it necessary 
to explain the unusual circumstance." 



154 Route 38. LOUISBOURG. 

38. The Fortress of Louisbourg. 

Louisbourg is reached by railway (running occasional passenger-cars) 
from Sydney, in 24 M. A road runs hence 15 - 18 M. N. E. along an in- 
teresting coast, to Cape Breton (see page 149), passing the hamlets of Big 
and Little Loran, "named in honor of the liaughty house of Lorraine." 
Cape Breton itself is nearly insulated by the deep haven of Baleine Cove, 
and just off its S. point is the rock of Porto Nuevo, rising boldly from 
the sea. Beyond the cape and the hamlet of Main-a-Dieu the Mira Bay 
road passes the hamlet of Catalogne (18 M. from SydnejO, at the outlet of 
the broad lagoon of the Catalogne Lake, and follows the Mira River from 
the village of Mira Gut to the drawbridge on the Louisbourg road, Avhere 
the farming hamlet of Albert Bridge has been established (12 M. from 
Sydney). A road runs hence S. W. 12 - 14 M. to Marion Bridge, a Scot- 
tish settlement near the long and narrow Mira Lake. The road ascends 
thence along the valley of the Salmon River to the vicinity of Loch Uist 
and Loch Lomond (see page 147). 

Gabarus Bay is 8-10 M. S. W. of Louisbourg, and is a deep and spa- 
cious but poorly sheltered roadstead. It has a large and straggling fishing- 
settlement, near the Gabarus, Belfry, and Mira Lakes. 

Louisbourg at present consists of a small hamlet occupied by fisher- 
men, whose vessels sail hence to the stormy Grand Banks. The adjacent 
country is hilly and unproductive, and contains no settlements. The har- 
bor is entered thi-ough a passage 10 fathoms deep, with a powerful white 
light on the N. E. headland, and is a capacious basin with 5-7 fathoms 
of water, well sheltered from any wind. On Point Rochfort, at the S. W. 
side of the harbor, are the ruins of the ancient French fortress and city, • 

"The ruins of the once formidable batteries, with wide broken gaps (blown up 
by gunpowder), present a melancholy picture of past energy. The strong and capa- 
cious magazine, onoe the deposit of immense quantities of munitions of war, is still 
nearly entire, but, hidden by the accumulation of earth and turf, now affords a com- 
modious shelter for flocks of peaceful sheep, which feed around the burial-ground, 
where the remains of many a gallant Frenchman and patriotic Briton are deposited ; 
while beneath the clear cold ware may be seen the vast sunken ships of war, whose 
very bulk indicates the power enjoyed by the Gallic nation ere England became 
mistress of her colonies on the shores of the Western Atlantic. Desolation now sits 
with a ghastly smile around the once formidable bastions. All is silent except the 
loud reverberating ocean, as it rolls its tremendous surges along the rocky beach, or 
the bleating of the scattered sheep, as with tinkling bells they return in the dusky 
solitude of eve to their singular folds." (Montgomery M.\rtix.") 

" If you ever visit Louisbourg, you will observe a patch of dark greensward on- 
Point Rochfort, — the site of the old burying-ground. Beneath it lie the ashes of 
hundreds of brave New-Englandcrs. No monument marks the sacred spot, but the 
waves of the restless ocean, in calm or storm, sing an everlasting requiem over the 
graves of the departed heroes." (R. Brown.) 

The port of Lonisbourg was called from the earliest times Havre d VAnglots, but 
no important settlements were made here until after the surrender of Newfoundland 
and Acadia to Great Britain, by the Treaty of Utrecht. Then the French troops and 
inhabitants evacuated Placentia (N. F.) and came to this place. In 1714 M. de St. 
Ovide de Brouillan was made Governor of Louisbourg ; and the work of building the 
fortress was begun about 1720. 



THE FORTRESS OF LOUISBOURG. Route 38. 155 

The powerful defences of" the Dunkirk of America" were hurried to completion, 
and the people of New England " looked with awe upon the sombre walls of Louis- 
bourg, whos^e towers rose like giants above the northern seas.'' Over 30,000,000 
livres were drawn from the French royal treasury, and were expended on the forti- 
fications of Louisbourg ; and numerous cargoes of building-stone were sent hither 
from France (as if Cape Breton had not enough, and little else). Fleets of New- 
England vessels bore lumber and bricks to the new fortress ; and the Acadians sent 
in supplies and cattle. For more than 20 years the French government devoted 
all its energy and resources to one object, — the completion of these fortifications. 
Inhabitants were drawn to the place by bounties ; and Louisbourg soon had a large 
trade with France, New England, and the West Indies. 

The harbor was guarded by a battery of 30 28-pounders, on Goat Island ; and by 
the Grand (or Royal) Battery, which carried 30 heavy guus and raked the entrance. 
On the landward side was a deep moat and projecting bastions ; and the great 
careening-dock was opposite. The land and harbor sides of the town were defended 
by lines of ramparts and bastions, on which 80 guus were mounted; and the West 
Gate was overlooked by a battery of 16 24-pounders. The Citadel was in the gorge 
of the King's Bastion. In the centre of the city were the stately stone church, 
nunnery, and hospital of St. Jean de Dieu. The streets crossed each other at 
right angles, and communicated with the wharves by five gates in the harbor- 
ward wall." The fortress was in the first system of Vauban, and required a large 
garrison. 

Early in 1745 the Massachusetts Legislature determined to attack Louisbourg with 
all the forces of the Province ; and Gov. Shirley, the originator of the enterprise, 
gave the military conmiand to'Col Wm. Pepperell. Massachusetts furnished 3,250 
men ; New Hampshire, 300 ; and Connecticut, 500 ; and George Whitefield gave the 
motto for the army, " Nil desperandum, Cliristo dure,'''' thus making the enterprise 
a sort of Puritan crusade. The forces were joined at Canso by Commodore Warren's 
West-India fleet, and a landing was soon effected in Gabarus Bay. The garrison con- 
sisted of 750 French veterans and l,.50O militia, and the assailants were "4,000 un- 
disciplined militia or volunteers, officered by men who had, with one or two excep- 
tions, never seen a shot fired in anger all their lives, encamped in an open country, 
.... and sadly_ deficient in suitable artillery." The storehouses up the harbor 
were set on fire by Vaughan's New-Hampshire men ; and the black smoke drove down 
on the Grand Battery, so greatly alarming its garrison that they spiked their guns 
and fled. The fort was occupied by the Americans and soon opened on the city. 
Fascine batteries were erected at 1,550 and 950 yards from the AVest Gate, and a 
breaching battery was reared at night within 250 yards of the walls. Amid the roar 
of a continual bombardment, the garrison made sorties by sea and land; and 1,500 
of the Americans were sick or wounded, 600 were kept out in the country watching 
the hostile Indians, and 200 had been lost in a disastrous attempt at storming the 
Island Battery. Early in June, the guns of the Circular Battery were all dis- 
mounted, the King's Bastion had a breach 24 feet deep, the town had been ruined 
by a rain of bombs and red-hot balls, and the Island Battery had been rendered un- 
tenable by the American cannonade. On the 15th the fleet (consisting of the Superb, 
Sunderland, Canterbury, and Princess Mary, 60 guns each ; and the Launcesion, 
Chester, Lark, Mermaid, Hector, and Eltham, of 40 guns each) was drawn up off 
the harbor ; and the army was arrayed " to march with drums beating and colours 
flying to the assault of the West Gate" But Gov. Duchambon saw these ominous 
preparations and surrendered the works, to avoid unnecessary carnage. " As the 
troops, entering the fortress, beheld the strength of the place, their hearts for the 
first time sank within them. ' God has gone out of his way,' said they, 'in a re- 
markable and most miraculous manner, to incline the hearts of the French to give 
up and deliver this strong city into our hand.' " Pepperell attributed his success, 
not to his artillery or the fleet of line-of-battle ships, but to the prayers of New Eng- 
land, daily arising from every village in behalf of the absent army. " The news of 

' this important victory filled New England with joy and Europe with astonishment." 
Boston and London and the chief towns of America and England were illuminated ; 

; the batteries of London Tower fired salutes; and King George II. made Pepperell a 
baronet, and Warren a rear-admiral. (For the naval exploits, see page 149.) 

4,130 French people were sent home on a fleet of transports ; the siege-batteries 
were levelled, and 266 guns were mounted on the repaired walls ; and in the follow- 
ing April the New-England troops were relieved by two regiments from Gibraltar, 
and went home, having lost nearly 1,000 men. The historian Smollet designated 



156 HcuteSS. THE FOKTKESS OF LOUISBOUEG. 

the capture of Louisbourg. " the most importaiit achievement of the war of 1745 " ; 
and the authors of the " UniTersal History '" considered it " an equivalent for all 
the successes of the French upon the Continent." The siege is minutely described 
(with maps'! ju Brown's '* History of the Island of Cape Eivton." pages 1(^-24S. 

'' That a colony like Massachusetts, at that time far from being rich or populous, 
should display such remarkable military spirit and enterprise, aided only by the 
smaller Province of Xew Hampshire : that tliey should equip both land and ?ea forces 
to attack a redoubtable fortress callevl by British officers impregnable, and on \^h^ch 
the French Crown had expendeii immense sums; .... that"4.0OO rustic militia, 
whose officers were as inexperieuce^.i in wjir as their men, although supported by 
na^-al forces, should conquer the i-egular troops of the gi-eatost milihxry power of the 
age, and wrest from their hands a place of unusual strength, all appear little short 
of miracle." (Beloiish Murdoch.) 

So keenly did the French government feel the loss of Louisboursr that the great 
French Armada w;is sent out in 1746 to retake it and to destroy Poston. After the 
dis;istrous fiiilui-e of this ex}>ei.lition (see ptige 99"), L;\ Jonquiere wa^; desp;\tched with 
1^3 men-of-war and 2S other vessels, on the ssime errand, but was attttckevl by the tlet^ts 
of Anson and Warren otf Caj.^ Finisterre, and lost 9 ships of war, 4,000 men, and 
S S,000,000 worth of the convoyed cargot^s. In 1749 the ^^•ar was; ended, Louisbourg 
and Cape Breton were restoi-ed to France, and *' after four } ears of warftire in all 
parts of the world, alter aU the waste of blood and treasui-e, the war ended jusi 
where it K^g;\n." 

When war broke out again between England and France, in 17-55, Louisbourg was 
blockaded by the fleet of Admiral Boscawen. England soon sent 11 line-of-battle 
ships, a squadron of frig;\tes. and 50 transports, bearing 0,000 soldiers, to reduce the 
fortress ; but France was too prompt to be surpri>et.l. and held it Avithi 17 Siiil of the 
line and 10,000 men. The -vast English fleet got within 2 M. of Louisbourg and 
then recoilevl, sjiited to Halilax. and soon broke up, seniling the army to New York 
and the ships to England. France then equipped fleets at Toulon and Rochfnrt. to 
reinforce Louisbourg : but the Fouiiroi/ant,Si^. the Crfhais, 64, and other vessels 
were capture^!. Six men-of-war and sixteen trivnsports reached Louisbourg with a 
great amount of militai-y supplies, 

Great Britain new fitteti out an immense fleet at Spithead, consisting of the 
Namier, dO guns ; Koi.al WiUiam,SO ; Princess Amelia, SO : Ttrrrible, 74 ; the NortA- 
wnbtrianti, Ox/orci, Bur/oni, Vanguard, Somerset, and Lancaster, 70 guns each ; 
the Devonshire, Bt'djortJ, Captain, &nii Prince Frederick, ^-i each; the Pembroke, 
Kinsstoii, Ycrk, Prince of Orange, Defiance, &nd yottinsham,^ guns each; the 
Centurion and Sutherland, 50 each; the frigates Juno, Grarmnant, JS'is-'i tin gale, 
Hunter, Boreas, H'nd. Trtnt, Pt-rt Mahon, Diana, S/iannon, Kennington, Scar- 
borough. Squirre!, Hank, Beai'er, T\/loe, and Halirhx : and the fire-ships Etna and 
Lightning. There were also IIS transports, carrying 13.600 men, in 17 regiments. 
Boscawen commanded the fleet, Amherst the army, aiid WoUe was one of the briga- 
diers. 

This powerful armament soon appeared off Louisboiurg. and at dawn on the 5th of 
June. 175^, the British troops landed at Gabarus Bay. and pushed through the fatal 
surf of Freshwater Cove, amid the hot fire of the Fiviich shore-batteries. After losiug 
110 men they carried the entrenchments at the point of the bayonet, and the French 
fell back, on Louisbourg. The fortress had been greatly strengthened since the siege 
of 1745, and was defended by o,4CiO men of the Artillery and the regiments of "N'olon- 
taires Errangers, Artois, Bourgogne, and Cambise, besides large bodies of militia and 
Indians. In the harbor were the ships-of-war, Prudent, "i-k: Entreprenant, 74; 
Capricieux, 64; Celcbre.tyi; Bient'aisant,i^; Apollo n, bO] Diane, o^: Arethu.se, 
S3: F««e/f, 36; Echo.S2: Biche.l6: and C/jerre , 16. 

Wolfe's brigt'.de then occupied the old lughthouse Battery, and opened fire on the 
city, the F'reuch fleet, and the Island Battery. The latter was soon completely de- 
stroyed by Wolfe's tren-.endous cannonade ; and sit:ce the harbor Avas thus left 
vinguarxied. Gov. Prucour sank the frigates Diane, ApoUv^n, Biche, Fidele, and 
Chevre at its entrance. Meantime the main army %t;is erect'ng works on Green Hill 
and opposite the Queen's and Princess's Bastions, under the fire of the French! 
rampiirts and ships, and annoyed on the i"ear by the Indians. During a bloody 
sortie by the French, the Earl of Dun dona Id and many of the Grenadiers were 
killed. The heavy siege-batteries wer^e advanced rapidly, and poured in a crushing 
fire on the doomed city, destroying the Citadel, the West Gate, and the barracks. 
The magazine of the EntrepreTiaHi , 7^ blew up, and the Capricieux and Ce^cbre, 



THE FORTRESS OF LOUISBOURG. Route 38. 157 

catching the fire in their sails, were burned at their moorings. The Arethuse and 
Echo ran out of the harbor in foggy weather, but the latter was captured. Only- 
two French frigates remained, and these were both captured Ijy boats from the fleet, 
after a daring attack. On the 26th of July the Chevalier de Drucour surrendered 
the city, with 5,037 men, 23 3 pieces of artillery, and immense amounts of stores and 
supplies. The French had lost about 1,000 men, the British nearly 600, during the 
siege. 

All England rang with the tidings of the fall of " the Dunkirk of America," special 
prayers and thanksgivings wei'e read in all the churches of the kingdom ; and 11 
sets of colors from Louisbourg were presented to the King at Kensington Palace, 
whence they were borne with great pomp to St. Paul's Cathedral. Marine insurance 
on Anglo -American vessels fell at once from 30 to 12 per cent, because the French 
privateers were driven from the western seas by the closing of their port of refuge. 

In 1759 the great fleet and army of Gen. Wolfe gathered at Louisbourg and sailed 
away to the Conquest of Canada. Halifax was a fine naval station, and it was 
deemed inexpedient to maintain a costly garrison at Louisbourg ; so sappers and 
miners were sent there in the summer of 1760, and " in the short space of six months 
all tlie fortifications and public buildings, which had cost France 25 years of labor 
and a vast amount of money, were utterly demolished, — the walls and glacis levelled 
into the ditch, — leaving, in fact, nothing to mark their former situation but heaps 
of stones and rubbish. Nothing was left standing but the private houses, which 
had been rent and shattered during the siege, the hospital, and a barrack capable 

of lodging 300 men All the artillery, ammunition, stores, implements, — in 

short, everything of the slight<\st value, even the hewn stones which had decorated 
the public buildings, were transported to Halifax." 

The British garrison was withdrawn in 1768, and after the foundation of Sydney 
" the most splendid town of La Nouvelle F'rance " was completely deserted by its 
people. 

During some years past a scheme has been agitated whose fulfilment would 
restore Louisbourg to more than ics former importance. It is proposed to construct 
a first-class railway from this point to some station on the Pictou Branch of the 
Intercolonial Railway, crossing the Strait of Canso either by a lofty suspension- 
bridge or a steam ferry-boat on which the trains would be carried. It is thought 
that the freigbtand passenger receipts from the coal-mines and the settlements^on 
the territory traversed would more than defray the cost of construction and mainte- 
nance. The projectors then intend to make Louisbourg a port of call for the ocean- 
steamships, for whose u<e this safe and accessible harbor is peculiarly adapted. This 
port is on the 60th parallel of \V. longitude, and is 11 degrees E of Boston and 14 de- 
grees E. of New York, or so much farther advanced on the route to Europe. When 
th<' through railway is completed to Boston, Montreal, and New York, it is thought 
that most of the better class, at least, of transatlantic travellers would prefer to save 
time and nearly 1,000 31 of ocean-voyaging, by leaving or taknig the steamship 
here. Extensive surveys have already been made in this vicinity, and real estate 
in Louisbourg has rapidly advanced in value. 



" Baddeck was settled by Scotch Royalists, principally from the Highlands and the 
islands of Mull, Lewis, and Skye. The people are proud of their descent, and still 
keep up many of their ancient cu-toms. Gaelic is yet the common language among 
those living in the back country, and, while nearly everybody understands it to some 
extent, there are many who cannot speak English. Every Sunday services are held 
in Gaelic, which are very interesting, — the singing especially is wild and thrill- 
ing. Once a year the annual ' Scotch Gathering' takes pluce at Baddeck, and the 
various clans gather in all their forces, and for one day the quiet little village is full 
of excitement. '1 he sounds of the fiddle and bagpipe are heard in every direction, 
and on wooden platforms the lads and lasses, with solemn visages, go through their 
flings in sets of four or eight. . . . The people raise very little grain or corn, but 
potatoes thrive. Strawberries ripen the latter part of Julj-, and last until the mid- 
dle of August, when raspberries take their place. Some years they have very good 
apples in the last of September. The walks and drives through the country are very 
interesting, not only from the beauty of the scenery, but also for the insight into 
the quaint, old-fashioned homes of the descendants of the Highlanders. They show 
true Scotch hospitality, will not take pay for food or drink, but ask you in their 
houses, and say ' please yourself, mon,' with everything inside, and if you desire to 
purchase anything will ask five times its value." (Chandler.) 



158 Route 3'J. BT. ANNE'S BAY. 

39. The North Shore of Cape Breton. — St. Anne's Bay and 
St. Paul's Island. 

Convoy an f,f!S may be liired ut J'.addcck (■tcm pnge 1G2) by which to visit 
St.. Aiiiif;'s. 'I lifi distance is about 10 M. to tlie licad of the harbor, 'i'he 
fii-st part of llio way leads along the shores of Badfleclc Hay, with the 
promontory of Red Head over the water to the r. 'J'he road tlien crosses a 
cold district of denuded highlands, and descends to the * Valley of Ht. Anne. 
As the Iijirhor is approached, the traveller can see the amphithcatrical 
glens in vviii<li the great Holy Fairs or annual religious communions of 
the people are held. These rpiaint r'resl)yteria,n cnmp-incetings are said 
to bo a relic of the ancient chun;hes in the Scortisli Highlands. The 
shores of the harbor were occupied in 1820 by immigrants from the High- 
lands, who are now well located on comfoi'talde farms. The road follows 
the S. Arm, and to the 1. is seen the N. Arm, winding away among the 
tall mountains. .Just IC. (jf tlie N. Arm is St. Anne's Mt. which is 1,070 ft. 
high, and pushes forward cliffs !m;0 (t. higii nciirly to the water's edge. 

" Tliere is no r'uW. on tin; (•(mtincnt, of tlu; kind, so full of picturesque 
beauty and constant surpris(!H jis this around the indfuitatioiis of St. Anne's 
harbor. High Idiiffs, bold shores, cxciuisite s('a-vi(!ws, mouiitninous ranges, 
deli(dous air," are found liere in afjundiuico. Ahont, opposite the light- 
house on the l)ar, at the mouth of the harbor, is Old Fort Pointy on which 
the French batteries were estublishcd. Near this point; is the hamlet of 
Enf/Hsliloiim, chiefly interesting ns containing tin; griivc! of the once famous 
" Novji-Scotia Ciiant." Tlie mountains back of Kiiglishtown are over 
1,000 ft. high, and run N. E. to Cape Dauphin, whence they re}5el the sea. 
Itnviiy^H Sa.ilinfj Directions states that "on the N. side the land is very 
high, nnd slii[)s-of-war may lie so near the shore that a water-hose may 
reach the fresh water." As to the hiirhor, the ancient description of 
Cfiiirlevoix ntill holds good: — 

" Port Sto. Anne, i\h iilroady stntcrl, has hnforo it a vary sure roadshond between 
the (Jibou FHliiiidH. 'I'Ik! i)()rt- \h aliiioHt, coinpl<it,(^ly chiMul by a tonK<J<' of limd, loav- 
IriK paHKai;n lor only a, kIiikI*' Hhi|). Tbin porl,, Uiuh cloHod, 1,4 noarly two Icaf^uca in 
circidt,, and is oval in form. Sbips cai) <;v(!ry\vii('n! ai)i)roafli tlio land, and Hcrircoly 
percolvo tbo windn, on acconnt, of ilw bip;li banks and t.lu! surroiniiiinif nionntains. 
.... Tb(! llsliinji; is vi^ry aliundarit; ii^wnt ((uantit,i(!S of ^!;ood wood uia fonnd tbcl'o, 
Hii'-li a,H inaplo, bcccli, wild clicrry, and ('.sjiccially oaks vrry niitabli! for bnildiilif; 
and inasl.s, licin^i; '"K ',',^ \'t liip;li ; Mia,rl)l(! is coninion ; most, (jf Mio hinil f!;ood,— in 
Orcal, and l/it,t,l<! liabrador, wbicli an; only a, l(^a(;iH! a,nd a, baif oil', tbe Koil is very 
fertile, ainJ it can entitain a, very la,rj:;<! nninber of settlers." 

In Mt. Annex's Hay tbe Knfi;lisli sbip (!/inn/fwrU was wn^eked in 1597, nnd wbilo 
fib»! lay auroinid " tiien; eanie aboord many sballoprt witli store of J^'nincb men, wlvo 
robbc(l and spoyW'il all tbey could lay tlwur bands on, pillaKin^ t\w, poore luv.w oueu 
to tlii'ir very sbirfs, and vsinj:; tlicni in Haiia(!;e manner; wbei'iwis tlir-y sbonld ratbe/T 
as (Ibristians bane aid(Ml tiicni in that distr(!ss(;." In Ki'ii) tbis ba,rbor was oceupioid 
by tbe (in lit Si. Aiifimi^ wwd tlie M (i.i^ii.ir 1 1 '' .^ ivrwwA v(^Msels of li'rance, wboso crew/s, 
togetlier with tluiir IOn|j;lisli luisoners, (;onstrneted a fort to eoinma,nd tbe entranue. 
It was armed witli H (tainion, 1 ,8()0 lumndH of jtowdc-T, i)ikeH, and muskets, and ww,9 
gnrrisfined by 40 men. 'I'lu' comman(Jer of tbe lle((t raise{i tbe arms of tbo KingatJd 
olCttrdiual illcbelleu over its walla, imcl erected a cliapel, for wLioao cure he left tWjO 



INGONISH. RoxaeS9. 159 

Jesuits. He then named the harbor St. Anne's. Before the close of that winter 
more than one third of the troops died of the scurvy, and the commandant assas- 
sinated liis lieutenant on the parade-ground. In 1634 the Jesuits founded an In- 
dian mission here, but botii this and the garrison were afterwards withdrawn. Some 
years later a new battery and settlement were oreetod hero by Nicholas Denys,Sieur 
de Fronsac, m'Iio traded hence with the Indians of the N of Cape llreton. 

The valley of the N. Arm of St. Anne's was granted, in ITlo, to INI. tie Rouvillo, 
a captain in the infantry of France, and brother of that llertel de llouville wlio led 
the forces tliat destroyed Schenectady, Deertield, and llavcrhill. The N. Ann was 
long called llouville's River. At a later day Costabelle, l?eaucourt, Soubras, and 
other French oPRccrs liad lishing-stations on the bay. In 1745 a frigate from Com. 
Warren's tleet (then blockading Louisbonrg) entered the harbor, and destroyed all 
the property on its shores. St. Anne's Bay was afterwards called Port, Dauphin by 
the French, and the government long hesitated as to whether the chief fortress of 
Cape Breton should be located here or at Ijouisbourg. The perfect security of tho 
harbor afforded a strong argument in favor of St. Anne's, and it seemed capable of 
being made impregnable at slight expense. After the foundation of Louisbourg 1,000 
cords of wood were sent to that place annually from St. Auue's. 

The road from the Bras d'Or to the N. shore of Cape Breton diverges 
from the Sf. Anne road before reaching the harbor, and bears to the N. E., 
along the W. Branch. It rounds the North-River Valley by a great curve, 
and then sweeps up the harbor-shore, under the imposing cliffs of St. 
Anne's Mt. 1^'rom St. Anne's to Ingonish the distance is about 40 ^I., by 
a remarkably picturesque road between the mountains and the Atlantic, 
on a narrow plain, which recalls Byron's lines: — 

" The mountains look on Marathon, 
And Marathon looks on the sea." 

" Grand and very beautiful are the rocky gorges and ravines which furrow the 
hills and precipices between St. Anne's and Ingonish Equally grand and pic- 
turesque is the red syeuitic cscari)ment of Smoky Cape, capped with the cloud 
from which it derives its nauie, with many a lofty headland in the background, 
and the peak of the Sugar-loaf Mountain just peeping above the tixr-distaut hori- 
zon." (Brown.) 

The proud headland of Cape Smoky (the Cap Enf u me of iho French) is 
950 ft. high, and runs sheer down into the sea. To the W. there are peaks 
1,200-1,300 ft. high; and as the road bends around the deep bights to the 
N., it passes under summits more than 1,400 ft. high. Among these mas- 
sive hills, and facing Cape Smoky, is the village of Ingonisli, inhabited by 
Scottish Catholic fishermen, 800 of whom are found in this district. On 
the island that shelters the harbor is a fixed white light, 237 ft. above the 
sea, and visible for 15 M. 

Ingonish was one of tlie early stations of the Fi'ench. In 1729 a great church was 
built here, whose fonntlations only remain now ; and in 1849 a church-bell, marked 
St. Malo, 1729, and weighing 200 poiuuls, was found buried in the sands of tlio 
beach. Tin; settleuient here was probably, ruined by the drawing away of its people 
to aid in holding Louisbourg against the Anglo-America.u forces. In 1740 Ingonish 
was the second town ou the island, and its tleet caught 13,5(10 quintals of fish, it 
was destroyed, in 1745, by nuMi-of-wav from Com. ^\'a^ren■s tleet. 

The highland region bade of Ingonisli has always been famous for its abundance 
of game, especially of nioose and caribou. In the winter of 1789 over 9,000 mooso 
were killed hero for the sake of their skins, which brought ten shillings each ; and 
for many years this wholesale slaughter went on, and vessels knew wln^n they wero 
approaching the N. shore of Cape Breton by the odor of decaying carcasses which 
came from the shore. Finally the outraged laws of the Province were vindicated by 
the occupation of Ingonish by a body of troops, whose duty it was to restrain tho 



160 Route 39. ST. PAUL'S ISLAND. 

mooso-hunters at whatever cost. Of late years the moose have been nearly exter- 
minatod Ijy city sportsmen and by the Indiiins, who kill them while helplessly en- 
taiij^lcd in the deep Bnow-drifts. The scenery between Baddeck and Ingonish 
re-ieniblcs that of the North of Scotland, but is even more picturesque. Many 
offlcers from the Halifax garrison have sought its moose and trout. 

The highway ends at Ingonlsh, and a trail crosses the mountains to the 
N. N. W. to Aspy Bay, an open bight of the sea, into which several large 
lagoons empty. A specie-ship was wrecked ofT this bay early in the pres- 
ent century, and for many years coins were thrown ashore during heavy 
storms. In 1856 the first Atlantic Cable was landed here. On the N. W. 
shore of Aspy Bay is the lofty Sugar-loaf Mt., beyond which Cape North 
runs out to the N. E., 1,000 ft. higli. Cape North is 8 M. S. E. by E. from 
Cape St. Lawrence, and between these two pointa is the St. Lawrence Bay, 
on whose remote shores are about 400 inhabitants, while about Cape North 
are nearly 800 more. Between Cape North and Cape Ray, Newfoundland, 
the distance is 55 M., and through this wide strait is the middle entrance 
to the Gulf of St. Lawrence. 

St. Paul's Island. 

St. Paul's Island is 13 M. E. N. E. of Cape North, and is a vast mass of 
rock, 3 M. long and 1 M. wide, bearing three peaks 500 ft. high, sur- 
rounded by tall clilTs which reach far below the water, and indented by 
the Trinity and Atlantic Coves. The cod, mackerel, and seal fisheries 
around the island are very valuable; and the adjacent waters are of great 
depth, and form a constant current to the S. E. St. Paul's Island has 9 
inhabitants; a fixed white liglit (visible for 20 M.) on the N. point: a pro- 
vision depot for wrecked sailors in Trinity Cove; a steam fog-whistle in 
Atlantic Cove; and on tlie S. point a revolving white light of the first 
class, visible for 20 M. 

This island has been one of the most fatal points on the Atlantic coast, stretchinjK 
as it does, across such an inijiortant route of marine tr.avel. Thousands of lives ly' 
been lost here, and human bones formerly strewed the beaches, while anch,, 
chains, and other relit'S of disaster were found in the neighboring waters. '.^ 
Acndians of Chelicamp used to visit the island every spring, in order to secure 
valuable parts of cargoes and wrecks which the sea threw up on the shore. Amc 
the largest of the vessels lost here were the Horatio, Caiiada, Duncan, Venus^ 
transport with 200 soldiers (all drowned), the ocean-steamship Nunvegian, and ^g 
ehi]) Jrs.sie. The latter was wrecked in mid-winter, and 30 of her people were Ic , 
but 11 reached the shore, and wandered about until they were all frozen to deal' 
Willi tiie present system of lights, whistles, and cannon, most of the danger of th 
island is removed. 

"A dome of inhospitable rock peers through the mist, one of nature's penite. 
tiaries, which no living man would own, and so has been deeded to St. Paul : Weli^ 
is Kden to it. The saints, it appears to me, have been gifted with the ruggedest odg 
and ends. Wherever, on all these caft-iron shores, there is a flinty promontor 
upon which l'rometh<'US himself would have shuddered to be chained, there the 
name of an a)io8tle has been transfixed. Yonder is Cayie North, the stony arroWi 
head of Cape Breton, a headland, rather a multitudinous group of mountain head- 
lands, drajied v.ith gloomy grandeur, against the black clifTs of which the surf i^ 
now firing its snowy rockets All in all, this is a fine termination of the pic- 
turesque isle. Steep and lofty , it.s^ommits are darkened by steepled evergreens, anu 
its many sides gashed with horrid fissures and ravines.'' (L. L. Noble.) 



\, 



THE BRAS D'OR LAKES. Route Ifi. 161 

40. The Bras d'Or Lakes. 

The " InlaufJ T^oiife.'" heftrccn Si/diio/ and TlaHfa.v. There are several 
sto'iiners v^ly'".- ^" tlip Rvas d'Or, niakino; (l;iily trips in siinimpv. They lonvo Port 
Miilgrave, on the Strait of Canso, after the arrival of the Halifax mail-train, and run 
out eastward, by Isle iNLuiniie, and up St. Potm-'s P)ay. Traversing the recently 
completed St. Peter's Canal by St. Peter's villngf, the bolts descend St. Peter's 
Inlet, by Chapel Island ami the Miemae Indian Reservation (for all this region, see 
p.xy;es 146-7), and run out into the Great Bras d'Or After visiting the various 
ports on the lakes, they round Point Aeoni, and run aro\nid to Sydney dailv. The 
agent at Halifax can give particulars of sailings, etc. The eonstrnction of the rail- 
w.iy from New Glasgow to the Strait, and of the canal, have made the Rras d'Or 
very accessible, and removed the trials which hedged about this deli'jhtfnl trip 

The routes taken down the lakes are various. We give the old n^ute of the JS'ep- 
tune, although the u.sual journey now is down the Great Bras d'Or. 

After leaving- the wliarves of S3'dne3% the steamer passes up to N. Sj'd- 
ncy, where she makes a short stop, then runs to the N. E. out of Sydney- 
Harbor, with the shafts and villages of the Sydney Mines on the 1. After 
rounding Cranberry Head the course is N. W. for 8-9 M., in the ocean, 
passing the surf-beaten Bird Rock on the 1., while the stately mountains 
towards St. Anne's and Ingonish (see page 159) are seen in advance. 
When within 2-3 M. of Point Aconi the vessel turns in to the 1., and soon 
enters the strait called the * Little Bras d'Or, a narrow and river-like pas- 
sage through which the tide sweeps rapidly, and which is impassable for 
large craft. The water-view is sometimes limited to a few score feet, so 
tortuous and landlocked is the channel; and there are several small and 
picturesque hamlets on the shore, mostly inhabited bj)- immigrants from 
the Hebrides. 

On the r. side of the channel is Boularderie Island, which is about 35 
^I. long by 2-8 M. wide, and supports a small farming population. In 
1713 this rich and beautiful island was granted by the French Crown to 
;M. de la Boularderie, an officer of the French navy, Avho had greatly dis- 
tinguished himself in the defence of Port Royal and of Placentia. It is 
now occu])ied by Highlanders, Avho number about 1,300, and have several 
small hamlets. On the N. end of the island is the coal-field of Point Aconi, 
Avhich has not been operated for several years. 

The * Great Bras d'Or is the channel on the W. side of Boularderie, and 
is always used by ships and large coasters bound into the lakes. It has 
from 5 to 38 Aithorns of water, and is much grander in scenery than is the 
E. channel. The lake-steamers usually traverse this strait, rounding Point 
Aconi, and approaching the sea-repelling mountains of St. Anne's and 
Ingonish. On the N. are seen the Ciboux Islands, sheltering St. Anne's 
Bay (see page 158), and marked by a revolving red-and-white light, which 
is visible for 14 M. On the r. the dark and wind-swept Cape Dauphin is 
approached, terminating, in a peak 1,045 ft. high, the massive ridge which 
occupies the peninsula of St. Anne. Beyond the lighthouse on Black Rock 
Point (1. side), the ste'imer passes through a strait | M. Avide, and then 
enters the Great Bras d'Or, which is 1-3 M. wide, and is followed to the 

K 



162 Route 40. BADDECK. 

S. W. for nearly 30 M., between the mountains of St. Anne and the high- 
lands of Boularderie. 

The Neptune soon traverses the narrow channel of the Little Bras d'Or 
and enters a broader bay. Beyond Grove Point it reaches a beautiful 
sound which is followed for 25 M., and is 3-4 M. wide. (It is called St. 
Andreio's Channel on the Admiralty charts, but that name is elsewhere ap- 
plied to the East Bay.) Near George Mt., on the 1., are the low shores of 
Long Island; and the steamer sometimes stops off Beaver Harbor, or Bois- 
dale. The course is now laid towards the W. shore, rounds Kempt Head, 
the S. extremity of Boularderie Island, and passes Coffin Island on the r., 
beyond which is seen the long channel of the Great Bras d'Or. The course 
is nearly N. W., and lies between Eed Point (r. side) and Mackay Point (1. 
side), which are about 3 M. apart. In front is seen the village of Baddeck, 
while inside of the points Baddeck Bay extends to the r. and St. Patrick's 
Channel to the 1. 

Baddeck ( Telegraph ffouse^ comfortable ; Bras d' Or Hotel) is the capi- 
tal of Victoria County, and the chief village on the Bras d'Or. It has 
three churches, a court-house, and a quaint little jail, and is the centre of 
a group of farming-settlements whose aggregate population is 1,749. The 
harbor can accommodate vessels of 500 tons, and from this point several 
cargoes of produce are annually sent to Newfoundland. Gold has been 
found in the vicinity, and there is a saline spring farther down the shore. 
This locality was first visited by the French, from whom it received the 
name Bedeque, since Scotticized to Baddeck {?LCCQnt on the last syllable). 
It was first settled by the disbanded soldiers of the Eoyal Eangers, and in 
1793 there were 10 inhabitants here. 

" Although it -was Sunday, I could not but notice that Baddeck was a clean- 
looking Tillage of white wooden houses, of perhaps 7 - 800 inhabitants ; that it 
stretched along the shore for a mile or more, straggling ofif into farm-houses at each 
end, IjMng for the most part on the sloping curve of the bay. There were a few- 
country -looking stores and shops, and on the shore three or four rather decayed 
and shaky wharves ran into the water, and a tew schooners lay at anchor near 
them ; and the usual decaying warehouses leaned about the docks. A peaceful and 
perhaps a thriving place, but not a bustling place 

" Having attributed the quiet of Baddeck on Sunday to religion, we did not know 
to what to lay the quiet on Monday. But its peacefulness continued. I have no 
doubt that the farmers began to farm, and the traders to trade, and the sailors to 
Bail ; but the tourist felt that he had come into a place of rest. The promise of the 
red sky the evening before was fulfilled in another royal day. There was an inspira- 
tion in the air that one looks for rather in the mountains than on the sea-coast, it 
seemed like some new and gentle compound of sea-air and land-air, which was the 
perfection of breathing material. In this atmosphere, which seems to flow over all 
these Atlantic isles at this season, one endures a great deal of exercise with little 
fatigue ; or he is content to sit still and has no feeling of sluggishness. Mere living 
is a kind of happiness, and the easy-going traveller is satisfied with little to do and 
less to see. Let the reader not understand that we are recommending him to go to 

Baddeck. Far from it There are few whom it would pay to go a thousand 

miles for the sake of sitting on the dock at Baddeck when the sun goes down, and 
watching the purple lights on the islands and the distant hills, the red flush on the 
horizon and on the lake, and the creeping on of gray twilight. You can sec all this 
as well elsewhere ? I am not so sure. There is a harmony of beauty about the 



BADDECK. Route 40. 163 

Bras d'Or at Baddeck which is lacking in many scenes of more pretension." 
(Charles Dudley Wakner's Baddeck; and that Sort of Thing.) 

The tourist who stops at Baddeck should visit the Indian village which 
occup'es a grassy point near the town. It pertains to one of the clans of 
the Micmac tribe, and usually has 12-15 wigwams. Visitors are received 
with a not unkindly indifference, and may here study Indian domestic 
life, the curious manner of carrying babies, and the architecture of the 
wigwam. Some of the people can talk English. The visitor should en- 
deavor to see one of the Micmac Catholic prayer-books, printed (at Vienna) 
in a singular hieroglyphic, and bought by the Indians at the Trappist mon- 
astery in Tracadie. The camp at Baddeck is broken up in the autumn 
and the people retire to their reservations near the liunting- grounds. 

The Micmacs of Nova Scotia and Cape Breton still retain many of their ancient 
customs, and are of purer blood than any other tribe on the Atlantic coast. They 
number about 1,600 (and 1,400 in New Brunswick), and occupy several reservations 
in the Province, where they are cared for and protected by the Dominion gavern- 
ment. Under this paternal care (strono;ly contrasting with the Indian policy of the 
United States) the aborigines are steadily increasing in numbers and approaching a 
better standard of civilization,, and are loyal and useful subjects of their " great 
mother," Queen Victoria. The discipline of families is well preserved by the use of 
corporeal punishment. Warm parental affection is a strongly marked feature, and 
the subordination of the women is still maintained, though ameliorated by the in- 
fluences of civilization. Tlie Micmacs have exchanged their former belief in and 
worship of the hostile principles of good and evil for the creed of the Roman Cath- 
olic Church, of which they are devout communicants. 

Tlieir language has many curious verbal coincidences with that of the Gaelic race, 
and is said to be " copious, flexible, and expressive " Philologists have also traced 
a marked analogy between theGreeli and Micmac languages, basing thereon a sharp 
rebuke to Renan's flippant attack on the aboriginal tongues of America. 

Baddeck to Whycocomagh, see Eoute 41. Baddeck to St. Anne's Bay, 
• see Route 39. A road runs from this point nearly N. for 10 M. to the 
forks of the Big Baddeck River, where trout are found. To the N. are 
the Baddeck Mts., an unexplored and savage highland region which ex- 
tends for 100 M. to the IST., as far as Cape North, with a breadth of 15-25 
M. This mountain-region has been a favorite hunting-ground for moose 
and caribou, which are now carefully preserved by Provincial game-laws ; 
and it also contains bears, wolves and foxes, rabbits and hares, beaver, 
mink, and muskrats. 

The Margaree River may be reached from Baddeck (in 28 M.)bya 
picturesque road, ascending the long valley, and crossing the Hunter's 
Mt., with fine views over the Bras d'Or. The pleasant rural district of 
the Middle Valley is then traversed, and the road leads through a remark- 
able pass of the hills and enters the rich valley of the Margaree, famous 
for its fishing (see Route 42). Visitors to this district usually board in 
the farm-houses, Avhere plain and substantial fare is given. 

The Middle River lies to the W. of Baddeck, and is approached by the Whyco- 
comagh road (Route 41). The valley has over 1,000 inhabitants, of the Gaelic High- 
land race, many of whom are unacquainted with the English language. Near their 
settlements are prolific trout-streams, where fine sport may be enjoyed in the early 
summer. The chief settlements are respectively 12, 13, and 16 M. from Baddeck, 
and near the head of the river is an undeveloped gold district. A few mUes up this 



164 , Route 40. THE BRAS D'OR. 

river is " a Gaelic settlement of farmers. The river here flows through lovely mead- 
ows, sandy, fertile, and sheltered by hills, — a green Eden, one of the few peaceful 
inhabited spots in the world. I could conceive of no news coming to these High- 
landers later than the defeat of the Pretender." 

In 1801 the total population of the Island of Cape.Breton was 2,513, including 
Englishmen, Acadian*, and Micmacs. In 1802 the first emigrant-ship arrived at 
Sydney from Scotland, and since that time over 25,000 Scottish immigrants have 
landed and settled on this island. They rapidly spread over the W. coast and occu- 
pied the shores of the l!ras d'Or and its connected waters, and Cape Breton is now, 
and probably will ever be, a Scottish land. After the dispersal of the Highland clans 
and the final pacification of Northern Scotland, the chieftains and nobles found it 
more profitable to devote their estates to cattle-raising than to maintain the old ten- 
antry system. So thousands of poor tenant-farmers were expelled from their hold- 
ings and their ancient homes to make room for deer-parks or she<^p-farms among 
the glens. Driven forth against their will, they crossed the Atlantic to settle on 
the New- World shores, in a fairer but less honored land. The selfish policy of the 
powerful nobles depopulated broad districts of the Highlands. " Many who had 
friends in the colonies, and knew what they had to expect, emigrated with great 
alacrity ; but thousands, who had no such desire, on the contrary the greatest 
repugnance to leave the land of their fathers, the familiar hills, and the green 
slopes of Lochaber, were heart-broken at the idea of being separated from them by 
a thousand leagues of raging sea." This hardy rural population is peculiarly adapted 
to develop a new country like Cape Breton, and can also endure the great fluctu- 
ations of the climate, which range from 32° below zero to 96° above. The descend- 
ants of these immigrants are superior to the native Highlanders, both phyi^ically 
and mentally, and pay more attention to the education of their children and to the 
general estate of the nation. 

On leaving Baddeck the steamer runs out around Mackay's Point, and 
ascends the * Little Bras d' Or Lake, to the S. W. This sheet of water is 
5-6 M. wide, and is bordei-ed on the E. by the peninsula of St. Andrew 
and the hills back of Sunacadie and Christmas Island, and on the W. by 
the highlands of the Watchabaktchkt peninsula. 

" The most electric Amei'ican, heir of all the nervous diseases of all the 
ages, could not but find peace in this scene of tranquil beauty, and sail 
on into a great and deepening contentment. Would the voyage could last 
for an age, with the same sparkling but tranquil sea, and the same en- 
vironment of hills, near and remote. The hills approached and fell away 
in lines of undulating grace, draped with a tender color which helped to 
carry the imagination beyond the earth. 

" Certainly, as we glided out upon the summer waters and began to 
get the graceful outline of the widening shores, it seemed as if we had 

taken passage to the Fortunate Isles It was enough to sit on deck 

forward of the wheel-house, and absorb, by all the senses, the delicious 
day. With such weather perpetual and such scenery always present, sin in 
this world would soon become an impossibility." ( Warner" s Baddeck.) 

12-15 M. from Baddeck is the * Strait of Barra (or Grand Narrows), 
so named because the inhabitants of the adjacent shores came from the 
island of Barra, in the Hebrides. The strait is picturesque, and is 2 M. 
long and 1 M. wide. On the shore are a conspicuous Catholic church and 
a lighthouse; and the inhabitants are nearly all Campbells and McNeils. 

The steamer now enters the * Great Bras d'Or Lake, a noble expanse 
of water with a depth of from 15 to 57 fathoms. It is difficult to state its 



. THE BEAS D'OR. Route 40. 165 

size, on account of the numerous deep bays, but from the Strait of Barra 
to the S. shore it is 18 M. long (N. and S.), and from Malagawdatchkt it is 
nearly 20 M. (E. and W.). From the head of West Bay to tlie head of 
East Bay, a vessel could sail in a straight course nearly 50 M. 

" The Bras d'Or is the most heautiful salt-water lake T have ever seen, and more 
beautiful than we had imagined a body of salt water could be. .... The water seeks 
out all the low places, and ramifies the interior, running away into lovely bays and 
lagoons, leaving slender tongues of land and picturesque islands, and bi'inging into 
the recesses of the land, to the remote country farms and settlements the flavor of 
salt, and the fish and mollusks of the briny sea. There is very little tide at any 
time, so that the shores are clean and sightly for the most part, like those of a fresh- 
water iake. It has all the pleasantness of a fresh-water lake, with all the advan- 
tages of a sa.lt one. In the streams which run into it are the speckled trout, the 
shad, and the salmon ; out of its depths are hooked the cod and the mackerel, and 
in its bays fatten the oyster. This irregular lake is about 100 M. long, if you meas- 
ure it skilfully, and in some places 10 M. broad ; but so indented is it, that I am 
not sure but one would need, as we were informed, to ride 1,000 M. to go round it, 
following all its incursions into the land. The hills around it are never mere than 
5 - 600 ft. high, but they are high enough for reposeful beauty, and offer everywhere 
pleasing lines." (Warner's Baddeck ) 

Soon after passing the Strait of Barra the broad estuary of the River 
Denys is seen on the r. Deep ship-channels may be followed thither, pass- 
ing at first through a cluster of islets, and then into the North Basin, 
whence the Portage Inlet I'uns N. to within^ M. of the Whycocomagh 
Basin. The Inner Basin is 7 M. long and 2-3 M. wide, and is sometimes 
visited by ships, which load here with lumber for England. The River 
Denys debouches into the S. W. angle of this basin. There are five ham- 
lets of from 150 to 300 inhabitants each, situated on the basins and the 
river, most of the people being from the Western Isles of Scotland. 

The ancient Indian name for the Bras d"Or was Bidenuboch ; St. Patrick's Channel 
was called Ouamec/i; the River-Denys Basin, Mirminiguash ; the West Bay, Paque- 
lacadie; and the East Bay, Piscabouash. For the convenience of trading with the 
numerous Indians who inhabited these shores, M. Denys established his forts at St. 
Peter's and St. Anne's ; but there is no record of settlements by the French on the 
lakes. The chief seat of the Indians is now on the shore where 

" EsCasoni's fountains 
Pour down their crystal tide." 

The beautiful basin and river of Denys were named in honor of their discoverer, 
Nicholas Denys, Sieur de Fronsac, who was appointed by King Louis, in 1654, 
" Governor and Lieutenant-General " of Cape Breton and the adjacent shores. 

When the steamer is about 4 M. from the Strait of Barra, Benacadie 
Point is seen on the 1., 7-8 M. distant, below which is the great opening 
of the East Bay or St. Andrew's Channel, running in to the N. E. for 
nearly 25 M. (see page 147). 10-12 M. below the strait is the open'ng of 
the long and sinuous harbor of Malagawdatchkt, which approaches the 
marble formations of the western highlands, and has a village of 350 in- 
habitants. To the S. E. are the islands off St. Peter's Inlet. 

Opening away on the right is the S. W. arm of the Great Bras d'Or, 
which is called the West Bay, or St. George's Channel, and is about 15 M. 
long and 7 M. wide. It contains numerous islands, and is separated from 



166 Route 40. THE BRAS D'OR. 

the Puver-Den3's Basin by a range of massive highlands on the N. The 
N. shore hills are 700 - 770 ft. high, and those on the S. shore are 250 - 620 
ft. high. The shores are thinly inhabited, and the only hamlets are at the 
head. 

" The only other thing of note the Bras d'Or ofFerecl us before we reached West 
Bay \va8 tlie finest show of meduste or jelly-fish that could be produced. At first 
thore wore dozens of these disk-shaped transparent creatures, and then hundreds, 
starring the water like marguerites sprinkled on a meadow, and of sizes from that 
of a teacup to a dinner-plate. We soon ran into a school of them, a convention, a 
herd as extensive as the vast buffalo droves on the plains, a collection as thick as 
clover-blossoms in a field in June, miles of them apparently ; and at length the boat 
had to push its way through a mass of them which covered the water like the leaves 
of the pond-lily, and filled the deeps far down with their beautiful contracting and 
expanding forms I did not suppose there were so many jelly-fishes in all the world." 
(VVainer's Badflerlc.) 

"The scenery of the lakes is exceedingly striking and diversified. Long rocky 
cliffs anil esc;irpments rise in some places abruptly from the water's edge ; in others, 
undulating or rolling hills predominate, fringed on the shores by low white cliffs of 
g.Vprsum or red ronglonierate ; whilst the deep basins and channels, which branch 
off in all (lir(>c(ions from the central expanse of waters, studded with innumerable 
islets covered with a ricli growtli of spruce and hemlock, present views the most 
picturesque and diversified imaginable " (Brown.) 

" The scenery of this vast inlet is in some places beautifully picturesque, and in 
some others n)onotonous and uninteresting, but in many parts of a sublime charac- 
ter, which exhibits the sombre gloom of pine forests, the luxuriant verdure of broad 
valleys and wooded mountiins, and the wild features of lofty promontories frowning 
in stubborn ruggedness over the waters of the rivers and inlets." (M'Gregor ) 

"So wide is it, and so indented by bread bays and deep coves, that a coasting 
journey around it is e(|u,il in extent to a voyage acro.ss the Atlanlic. Besides the 
distant mountains that rise proudly from the remote shores, there are many noble 
islaniLs in its expanse, and forest-covered peninsulas, bordered with beaches of glit- 
tering white pebbles. But over all this wide landscipe there broods a spirit of 
primeval solitude For, strange as it may seem, the Golden Arm is a very use- 
less piece of water in this part of the worlil ; highly favored as it is by nature, land- 
locked, deep enough for vessels of all burden, easy of access on the Gulf side, free 
from fogs, and only separated from the ocean at its southern end by a narrow strip of 
land, about i M. wide ; abounding in timber, coal, and gypsum, and valuable for its 
fisheries, especially in winter, yet the Bras d'Or is undeveloped for wnnt of that 
element which seems to be alien to the Colonies, namely, enterprise.''^ (Cozzens. ) 

'• The climate of Baddeck in summer is delightful, the nights being always cool 
and tiie heat of the day never oppressive; on only one occasion last July did the 
thermometer indicate 80'^. The air has a life and an elasticity in it unknown in 
lowir hitirniies during the summer months. . . . The water- view is one of the finest 
to be found on the; Atlantic coast. The clear blue waters of the Bras d'Or, here seven 
or eight miles wide, are apparently hemmed in V)y ranges of mountains, whicli in 
some places rise abruptly from the water in lofty cliffs of plasterer gypsum, worn 
by the action of water into strange and fantastic; forms. These white cliffs, fringed 
with dark evergreens, form, witii the red conglomerate and bright green fields 
p( retching down to the water's edge, a most beautiful picture, which is appro- 
priately framed with long lines of mountains. The Bras d'Or, though an arm of 
the sea, has here a tide of only from six to eighteen inches, so that those fond of 
aquatic pursuits are not burdened with a head current when homeward bound." 

(CllANDLER.) 



ST. PATRICK'S CHANNEL. Route 4I. 167 

41. Baddeck to Mabou and Port Hood. — St. Patrick's 
Channel and Whycocomagh. 

This route is traversed by the Royal mail-stage on Monday and Wednesday, leav- 
ing Baddeck at noon, and reaching Whycocomagh after 4 o'clock, and Mabou at 9 
p. M. The distance is about 50 M. ; the fare is f 2 50. The Royal mail-stage on this 
route is a one-horse wagon with a single seat, so that the accommodations for travel 
are limited. 

Mr. AVaruer thus describes the road between Whycocomagh and Baddeck: " Froin 
the time we first struck the Bras d'Or for thirty miles we rode in constant sight of 
its magnificent water. Now we were two hundred feet above the water, on the hill- 
side skirting a point or following an indentation ; and now we were diving into a 
narrow valley, crossing a stream, or turning a sharp corner, but always with the 
Bras d'Or in view, the afternoon sun shining on it, softening the outlines of its em- 
"bracing hills, casting a shadow from its wooded islands. Sometimes we opened upon 
a broad water plain bounded by the W^atchabaktchkt hills, and again we looked over 
hill after hill receding into the soft and haz}' blue of the land beyond the great mass 
of the Bras d'Or. The reader can compare the view and the ride to the Ba}^ of 
Naples and the Cornice Road ; we did nothing of the sort ; we held on to the seat, 
prayed that the harness of the pony might not break, and gave constant expression 
to our wonder and delight." 

St. Patrick's Channel is 20 M. long by 1-3 M. wide, and is made 
highly picturesque by its deep coves, wooded points, and lofty shores. Its 
general covirse is followed by the highway, affording rich views from some 
of the higher grades. After leaving Baddeck the road strikes across the 
country for about 5 M. to the Baddeck River, in whose upper waters are 
large trout. Beyond this point the road swings around the blue expanse 
of Indian Bay, approaching a bold hill-range 650 ft. high, and crosses the 
Middle River, at whose mouth is an Indian reservation. Frequent glimpses 
are afforded of St. Patrick's Channel, well to the 1. across the green mead- 
ows. A range of lofty heights now forces the road nearer to the water, 
and it passes within 2 M. of the remarkable strait known as the Little 
Narrows, about which there are 150 inhabitants. 

A road leads N. W. 5 M into Ainslie Glen, and to the great Aiiislie Lake, 

which covers 25 square miles, and is the source of the Margaree River. Its shores 
are broken and rugged, and are occupied by a hardy population of Highlanders. 
Petroleum springs have been found in this vicinity (see page 169). 

Beyond the Little Narrows is a magnificent basin, 15 M. long and 3-5 
M. wide, into whose sequestered and forest-bound waters large ships make 
their way, and are here laden with timber for Europe. On his second trip 
up this Basin, the Editor was startled, on rounding a promontory, at seeing 
a large Liverpool ship lying here, at anchor, with her yard-arms almost 
among the trees. The road runs around the successive spurs of the Salt 
2[t., a massive ridge on the N. shore of the Basin, and many very attractive 
views are gained from its upper reaches. The water is of a rich blue, 
pai-tly owing to its depth, which is from 3 to 20 fathoms. 

Whycocomagh. [Inverness House) is a Scottish Presbyterian hamlet, 
situated at the N. W. angle of the Basin, and surrounded by pretty Trosach- 
like scenery. There are about 400 inhabitants in this neighborhood, 



168 Route 4^. WHYCOCOMAGH. 

whence small cargoes of produce are annually shipped to Newfoundland. 
Near this point is a marble cave, with several chambers 6 - 8 ft. high ; and 
foxes are often seen among the hills. It is claimed that valuable deposits 
of magnetic and hematitic iron-ore have been found in this vicinity. 
Stages run 30 M. S. W. from Whycocomagh to Port Hastings, on the tame 
and uninteresting road known as the Victoria Line, 

" What we first saw was an inlet of the Bras d'Or, called by the drirer Hogamah 
Bay. At its entrance were long, wooded islands, beyond which we saw the backs 

of graceful hills, hke the capes of some pottic sea-coast A peaceful place, this 

Whycocomagh. The lapsing waters of the Bras d'Or made a summer music all 
along the quiet street ; the bay lay smiling with its islands in front, and an amphi- 
theatre of hills rose beyond." (Warner's Baddeck.) 

On leaving Whycocomagh the quaint double peaks of Salt Mt. are seen 

in retrospective views, and the road soon enters the Skye Glen, a long, 

narrow valley, which is occupied by the Highlanders. The wagon soon 

reaches the picturesque gorge of the Mabou Valley,, with tlie mountainous 

mass of Cape Mabou in front. The Mull River is seen on the 1., glittei- 

ing far below in the valley, and erelong the widenings of the sea are 

reached, and the traveller arrives at the wretched inn of Mabou. The 

stage for Port Hood (10 M. S.) leaves at noon, reaching Port Hastings at 

7.30 P. M. (see Route 42). 

The Bras d'Or steamer ascends St. Patrick's Channel to Whycocomagh 
every week, on its alternate trips passing around from Sydney to the 
Channel by way of the Great Bras d'Or (Sydney to Whycocomagh, $ 2). 
This route is much easier for the traveller than that by the stage, and 
reveals as much natm-al beauty, if made during the hours of daylight. 
The passage of the Little Narrows and the approach to Whycocomagh are 
its most striking phases. 

42. The West Coast of Cape Breton. — Port Hood and Mar- 

garee. 

The Royal mail-stage leaves Port Hastings every evening, at about 4 o'clock, after 
the arrival of the Halifax mail-train. Fare to Port Hood, $ 2 ; 35 1 by steamer, in 
summer. 

Distances. — Port Hastings to Low Point, 7 M. ; Creignish, 9 ; Long Point, 14 ; 
Judique, 18; Little Judique, 24; Port Hood, 28; Mabou, 38; Broad Cove Inter- 
vale, 56 ; Margaree Forks, 68; Margaree, 76 ; Cheticamp, 88. 

The first portion of this route is interesting, as it affords frequent pleas- 
ant views of the Strait of Can so and its bright maritime processions. The 
trend of the coast is followed from Port Hastings to the N. W., and a suc- 
cession of small hamlets is seen along the bases of the highlands. Just 
beyond Low Point is the Catholic village of the same name, looking out 
over the sea. The road now skirts the wider waters of St. George's Bay, 
over which the dark Antigonish Mts. are visible. Beyond the settlements 
of Creignish and Long Point is -^e populous district of Judique, inhab- 



PORT HOOD. Route 4%. 169 

ited by Scottish Catholics, who are devoted to the sea and to agriculture. 
The Judiquers are famous throughout the Province for their great stature, 
and are well known to the American fishermen on account of their pug- 
nacity. Yankee crews landing on this coast are frequently assailed by 
these pugilistic Gaels, and the stalwart men of Judique usually come off 
victorious in the fistic encounters. The district has about 2,000 inhab- 
itants. 

Port Hood (two inns) is the capital of Inverness County, and is a pic- 
turesque little seaport of about 800 inhabitants. The American fishermen 
in the Gulf frequently take shelter here during rough weather, and 400 
sail haA^e been seen in the port at one time. Thei'e are large coal-deposits 
in the vicinity, which, however, have not yet been developed to any 
extent. The town was founded by Capt. Smith and a party of New- 
Englanders^ in 1790. " This port affords the only safe anchorage on the 
W. coast of Cape Breton to the N. of the Gut of Canso," and is marked 
by a red-and-white light, near the highway, on the S. Off shore is Smith's 
Island, which is 2 M. long and 210 ft. high, beyond which are the high 
shores of Henry Island. The Magdalen-Islands steamer touches at Port 
Hood (see Route 49) and a stage-road runs N. E. to Hillsborough, where 
it meets the road from Mabou, and thence passes E. to Whjxocomagh (see 
page 167). 

Mabou (uncomfortable inn) is 10 M. N. E. of Port Hood, and is reached 
by a daily stage passing along the shore-road. It is at the mouth of the 
broad estuai-y of the Mabou River, amid bold and attractive scenery, and 
contains about 800 inhabitants. To the N. E. is the highland district of 
Cape Mabou, averaging 1,000 ft. in height, and thickly Avooded. The 
Gulf-shore road to Margaree runs between this range and the sea, passing 
the marine hamlets of Cape Mabou and Sight Point. There is an inland 
road, behind the hills, which is entered by following the Whycocomagh 
road to the head of the estuary of the Mabou and then diverging to the 
N. E. This road is traversed by a tri-weekly stage, and leads up by the 
large farming-settlement at Broad Cove Intervale, to the W. shores of 
Lake, AinsUe (see page 167), Avhich has several small Scottish hamlets 
among the glens. 

"The angler who has once driven through Ainslie Glen to. the shores of the 
lake, launched his canoe upon its broad waters, and entered its swiftly running 
stream, will never he content to return until he has fished its successive pools to its 
very mouth." 

A road leads out from near the W. shore of the lake to the village of 
Broctd Cove Chapel, on the Gulf coast, traversing a pass in the highlands. 
The stage runs N. between the hills and the valley of the Margaree (S. W. 
Branch), "one of the most romantic and best stocked salmon-rivers in the 
world." Beyond the settlement of Broad Cove Marsh, a road runs out to 
the Gulf abreast of Sea- Wolf Island, on whose chflfs is a fixed light, 300 ft. 



170 Roitte 42. 



MARGAREE. 



high. Margaree ForTcs is a rural village at the junction of the N. E. and 
S. W. Branches of the famous Margaree River, where salmon abound 
from June 15 until July 15, and rare sea-trout fishing is found. 

" In Cape Breton the beautiful IMargaree is one of the most noted streams for sea- 
trout, and its clear water and picturesque scenery, vriuding through intervale mead- 
ows dotted with groups of witch-elm, and backed hy wooded hills over a thousand 
feet in height, entitle it to pre-eminence amongst the rivers of the Gulf" 

There are several small hamlets in this region, with a total population 
of over 4,000. jMargaree is on the harbor of the same name, near the 
Chimner-Corner coal-mines, 48 M. from Port Hood, and has a small fleet 
of fishing-vessels. A shore-road runs N. E. 12 M. to Chetlcamp, a district 
containing about 2,000 inhabitants, most of whom are of the old Acadian 
race. It is a fislung station of Robin & Co., an ancient and powerful 
commercial house on the Isle of Jersey; and was founded by them in 1784, 
and settled by Acadian refugees from Prince Edward Island. The harbor 
is suitable for small vessels, and is formed b}'' Cheticamp Island, sheltering 
the mouth of the Cheticamp River. There is a powerful revolving white 
light on the S. point of the island, 150 ft. high, and visible for 20 M. 
at sea. 

N. E. and E. of Cheticamp extends the great highland-wilderness of 
the N. part of Cape Breton (see page 163), an unexplored and trackless 
land of forests and mountains. There are no roads above Cheticamp, and 
the most northerly point of the Province, Cape St. Lawrence (see page 
159), is 30 M. N. E. by E. ^ E. from the N. part of Cheticamp Island. 



The terrible storm which swept the Gulf of St. Lawrence in August, 1873, and 
wrecked hundreds of vessels, attained its greatest force around the island of Cape 
Breton and in the narrow seas to the W. , towards Prince Edward's Island and the 
Magdalen Island. It lasted only a few hours, but was fearfully destructive in its 
effects, and strewed all these coasts with drowned mariners The following spirited 
poem is inserted here, by the kind permission of its author, Mr. Edmund C. Sted- 
man. 

Tlie ILord's-Day Gale. 



In Gloucester port lie fishing craft,— 
More stauneii nnd trim were never seen : 

They are sharp before and sheer abaft. 
And true their lines the masts between. 

Alons the wharves of Gloucester Town 

Their fnres are lishtly landed down. 
And the laden flalv.es to sunward lean. 

Well know the men each cruising-^ound, 
And where the cod and mackerel be : 

Old Eastern Point the schooners round 
And leave Cape Ann on the larboard lee : 

Sound are the planks, the hearts are bold, 

That brave December s surges cold 
On George's shoals in the outer sea. 

And some must sail to the banks far north 
And set their trawls for the hungry cod,— 

In the ghostly fo2 creep back and torth 
By shro'uled paths no foot hath trod ; 

Ui'on the crews the ice-winds blow, 

The bitter sleet, the frozen snow, — 
Their lives are in the hand of God I 



New England ! New England ! 

Needs sail they must, so brave and poor, 
Or June be warm or Winter storm. 

Lest a wolf gnaw through the cottage-door ! 
Three weeks at home, three long months gone, 
While the patient good-wives sleep aloneT 

And wake to hear the breakers rour. 

The Grand Bank gathers in its dpad, — 
The deep sea-sand is their winding-sheet; 

AA'ho does not George s bdlows dread 
That dash together the driftins fleet ? 

Who does not long to hear, in May, 

The pleasant wash of Saint Lawrence Bay, 
The fairest ground where lishermeu meet ? 

There the west wave holds the red sunlight 
Till the bells at home are rung for nine : 

Short, short the watch, and calm the night ; 
The fiery northern streamers shine ; 

The eastern sky anon is gold. 

And winds irohi piny forests old. 
Scatter the white mists ofl' the brine. 



THE LORD'S-DAY GALE. Route 42. 171 



New England : New Enpland ! 

Thou lovest well thine ocean main 1 
It spreadeth its locks amons thy rocks, 

And lonf? against thy h-art hath lain ; 
Thy ships upon its bosom ride 
And feel the heaving of its tide : 

To thee its secret speech is jdain. 

Cape Breton and Edward Isle between, 
In strait and gulf the schooners lay ; 

The sea was all :it peace, I ween. 
The night helore that August day ; 

"Was never a Gloucester skipper there. 

But thought erelong, wit)i a right good fare, 
To sail for home from Saint Lawrence Bay. 

New England ! New England ! 

Thy giant's love was turned to hate 1 
The winds control his fickle soul. 

And in his wrL'jh lie hath no mate. 
Thy shores his angry scourges tear, 
And for tliy childreii in his care 

The sudden tempests lie in wait. 

The East Wind gathered all unkno:^Ti, — 
A tliick sea cloud his course before ; 

lie left ijy night the frozen zone 
And sn'iote the cliffs of J>abrador ; 

He lashed the coasts on either liand, 

And betwixt the Cnpe and Newfoundland 
Into tlie Bay his armies pour. 

He caught our helpless cruisers there 

' As a gray wolf harries tlie huddling fold ; 

A sleet - a darkness - filled the air, 

A shuddering wave before it rolled : 
That Lord s-Day morn it was a breeze, — 
At noon, a blast that shook the seas, — 

At night — a wind of Death took hold ! 

It leaped across the Breton bar, 

A death-wind from the stormy East I 

It scarred the land, and whirled afar 
The sheltering thatch of man and beast ; 

It minsled rick and roof and tree. 

And liTte a besom swept the sea. 
And churned the wateis into yeast. 

From Saint Paul s Light to Edward's Isle 
A thousand craft it smote Hniain ; 

And some against it s'rove the while. 
And more to make a port were fain : 

The mackerel-gulls flew screaming jnst, 

And the stick that bent to the noonday blast 
Was split by the sundown hurricane. 



O, what can live on the open sea, 
Or moored in port the gale outride? 

The very craft that at anchor be 
Ar& dragyed along by tlie swollen tide! 

The great storm-wave'came rolling west, 

And tossed the vessels on its crest : 
The ancient bounds its might defied ! 

The ebb to check it had no power ; 

The surf ran up to an untold height ; 
It rose, nor yielded, liour by hour, 

A night and day, a day and night ; 
Far up the seething shores it cast 
The wreck of hull and spar and mast. 

The strangled crews, — a wof ul sight ! 

There were twenty and more of Breton sail 

Fast anchored on one mooring-grouud ; 
Each lay within his neighbors had, 
When the thick of the tempest closed them 
round : 
All sank at once in the gaping sea, — 
Somewhere on the shoals their corses be, 
Tne foundered hulks, and the seamen 
drowned. 

On reef and bar our schooners drove 
Before the wind, before the swell ; 

By the steep sand-cliffs their ribs were stove, — 
Long, long their crews the tale shall tell ! 

Of the Gloucester fleet are wrecks threescore; 

Of the Province sail two hundred more 
Were stranded in that tempest fell. 

The bedtime bells in Gloucester Town 
That Sabbath night ran^ soft and clear ; 

The sailors' children laid them down,— 
Dear Lord! their sweet prayers couldst thou 
hear ';:' 

'T is said that gently blew the winds ; 

The good wives, through the seaward blinds, 
Looked down the bay and had no fear. 

New England ! New Ensland 1 

Thy ports their dauntless seamen mourn ; 
The twin capes j'carn for their return 

Who never shall be thither borne ; 
Their orphans whisper as they meet ; 
The homes are dark in many a street, 

And women move in weeds forlorn. 

And wilt thou fail, and dost thou fear ? 

Ah, no : Though widows cheeks are pale, 
The lads siiall say : " Another year, 

And we shall be of age to sail: " 
And the mothers' hearts shall fill with pride. 
Though tears drop fast for them who died 

When the fleet was wrecked in the Lord's- 
Day gale. 



" The island becnme as Gaelic as the most Gaelic part of Scotland. It continues 
so to this day. W^hat of Cape Breton is not Highland Scottisli is Acadian French 
The old allies of the IMiddle Ages live together in ; mity on this fair outpost of the 
new world. The Highland immigrnnts had a hard time of it for many a long day. 
Thc3' were poor, unskilled in agriculture, and utterly ignorant of woodcraft or 
forest life. But their ???orr(,;e was superb. Like men they set the stout heart to 
the stac brae. Hardy, patient, frugal. God-fearing, they endured hardships th t 
•would have killed ordinary settlers. Gradually and painfully they learned to wield. 
the axe, and to hold the plough instead of the clumsy hoe and spade of their native 
isles. The lakes and streams, the Bras d'Or and the rough Atlantic, gave generous 
Lsupplies of food. Their log-huts in the green woods were their own And their 
children haTe exchanged the primitive shanty for comfortable frame houses, and 
the few sheep their fathers owned for fat flocks and hardy horses that they rear for 
the Svdney and iS^ewfoundland markets. Take up your summer quarters on the 
Gilt of Canso, or at St. Peter's, Baddcck, Wliycocomagh, Sydney, Louisbourg, Mar- 
garee, or any other local centre, and though you maj- not get ' all the comforts of 
the Sautmarke':,' you will get what is better. The more Gaelic you can speak the 
less money jou need to have iu your purse " (Rev. George M. (Sra-xt.) 



PEmCE EDWAED ISLAND. 



Prince Edward Island is situated in the southern portion of the 
Gulf of St. Lawrence, and is bounded on the S. by the Northumberland 
Strait. It is 30 M. from Cape Breton Island, 15 M. from Nova Scotia, and 
9 M. from New Brunswick, and is surrounded by deep and navigable 
waters. The extreme length is 130 M.; the extreme breadth, 34 M.; and 
the area is 2,133 square miles. The surface is low or gently undulating, 
with small hills in the central parts, and the soil is mostly derived from 
red sandstone, and is very fertile. The air is balmy and bracing, less 
foggy than the adjacent shores, and milder than that of New Brunswick. 
The most abundant trees are the evergreens, besides which the oak and 
maple are found. The shores are deeply indented by harbors, of which 
those toward the Gulf are obstructed by sand, but those on the S. are com- 
modious and accessible. 

The island is divided into 3 counties, including 13 districts, or 67 town- 
ships and 3 royalties. It has 108,891 inhabitants, of whom 47,115 are Cath- 
olics, 33,835 are Presbyterians, 13,485 Methodists, and 7,205 Episcopalians. 
The majority of the people are of Scottish origin, and there are 300-400 
Micmac Indians. The local government is conducted by the Executive 
Council (9 members) and the House of Assembly (30 members), and the 
political parties which form about the petty questions of the island dis- 
play a partisan acrimony and employ a caustic journalism such as are 
not seen even in the United States. The Province is provided with gov- 
ernor and cabinet, supreme and vice-admiralt}' courts, and a public 
domain, on the same plan as those of the great Provinces of Quebec and 
Ontario. The land is in a high state of cultivation, and nearly all the 
population is rural. Manufactories can scarcely be said to exist, but the 
fisheries are cai'ried on to some extent, and shipbuilding receives con- 
siderable attention. The roads are good in dry weather, and lead through 
quiet rural scenery, broken ever}-- few miles by the blue expanses of the 
broad bays and salt-water lagoons. The chief exports consist of oats, 
barley, hay, potatoes, fish, live-stock, and eggs. 

It has been claimed that Prince Edward Island was discovered by 
Cabot, in 1497, but there is no certainty on this subject. It was visited 
by Champlain on St. John's Day, 1G08, and received from him the name 
of Visit St. Jean. The whole country was then covered with stately for- 



PEINCE EDWARD ISLAND. 173 

ests, abounding in game, and was inhabited by a clan of the Micmac 
Indians, who called it EiJayguit ("Anchored on the Wave"). It was 
included in the broad domain of Acadia, over Avhich France and England 
waged such disastrous wars, but was not settled for over two centuries 
after Cabot's voyage. In 1663 this and the Magdalen Islands were granted 
to M. Doublet, a captain in the French navy, who erected summer fishing- 
stations here, but abandoned them every autumn. After England had 
wrested Nova Scotia from France, a few Acadians crossed over to L'Isle 
St. Jean and became its first settlers. In 172'8 there Avere 60 French fam- 
ilies here; in 1745 there were about 800 inhabitants; and during her death- 
struggles with the Anglo-American armies, the Province of Quebec drew 
large supplies of grain and cattle from these shores. The capital was at 
Port la Joie (near Charlottetown), where there was a battery and garrison, 
dependent on the military commandant of Louisbourg. It is claimed by 
Haliburton that the island was captured by the New-Englanders in 1745, 
but it is known only that Gen. Pepperell ordered 400 of his soldiers to sail 
fi'om Louisbourg and occupy L'Isle St. Jean. It does not appear whether 
or not this was done. After the expulsion of the Acadians from Nova 
Scotia, many of them fled to this island, which contained 4,100 inhab- 
itants in 1758. In that year Lord Eollo took possession of it, according to 
the capitulation of Louisbourg, with a small military force. 

In 1763 the island was ceded to Great Britain by the Treaty of Fon- 
tainebleau, and became a part of the Province of Nova Scotia. It was 
surveyed in 1764-6, and was granted to about 100 English and Scottish 
gentlemen, who were to pay quitrents and to settle their lands with 1 per- 
son to every 200 acres, within 10 years, the colonists to be Protestants 
from the continent of Europe. When the 10 years had elapsed, many of 
the estates were forfeited or sold to other parties, and only 19 of the 67 
townships had any settlers. In 1770 the island was made a separate Prov- 
ince, and in 1773 the first House of Assembly met. In 1775 the Americans 
captured the capital, and in 1778 four Canadian companies were stationed 
there. In 1780 the Province was called New Ireland, but the King vetoed 
this name, and in 1800 it was entitled Prince Edward Island, in honor of 
His Royal Highness Prince Edward, Duke of Kent, then Commander of the 
Forces in British North America (afterwards father of Queen Victoria). In 
1803 the Earl of Selkirk sent over 800 Highlanders, and other proprietors set- 
tled colonies on their domains. The complicated questions arising from the 
old proprietary estates have engrossed most of the legislation of the island 
for 70 years, and are being slowly settled by the purchase of the lands by 
the government. Prince Edward Island long refused to enter the Dominion 
of Canada, but yielded at last on very favorable terms, one of the condi- 
tions being that the Confederacy should build a railway throughout the 
Province. 



174 Route 4^. CAPE TRAVERSE. 

43. Shediac to Summerside and Charlottetown. — The 
Northumberland Strait. 

St. John to Shediac, see Routes 14 and 16. 

It is probable that steamers of the P. E. I. Steam Navigation Company- 
will leave Shediac (Point du Chene) every day during the summer season, 
on arrival of the morning train from St. John. The fare from Shediac to 
Summerside is $1.50 ; and from Summerside to Charlottetown, $ 1.50. 

The distance from Shediac to Summerside is 35 M. Soon after leaving 
the wharf at Point du Chene the steamer passes out through Shediac Bay, 
and enters the Northumberland Strait. The course is a little N. of E., and 
the first point of the island to come into sight is Cape Egmont, with its 
lines of low sandstone cliffs. The traveller now sees the significance 
of the ancient Indian name of this sea-girt land, Epayguit, signifying 
"Anchored on the Wave." 

After passing Cape Egmont on the 1., the steamer enters Bedeque, or 
Halifax, Bay, and runs in toward the low shores on the N. E. After pass- 
ing Indian Point and Island it enters the harbor of Summerside, with the 
estuary of the Dunk River on the r. 

Summerside, see page 179. 

Upon leaving Summerside the steamer passes Indian Point on the 1., 
and, after running by Salutation Puint, enters the" Northumberland Strait. 
The course is nearly S. E. 9 M. from Salutation Point is Cape Traverse, 
and on the S. shore is Cape Tormentine. At this, the narrowest part of 
the strait, the mails are carried across by ice-boats in winter, and passen- 
gers are transported by the same perilous route. A submarine cable un- 
dei-lies the strait at this point. It is 20 M. from Cape Traverse to St. 
Peter's Island, and along the island shores are the villages of Tryon, Cra- 
paud, De Sable, and Bonshaw. On passing St. Peter's Island, the steamer 
enters Hillsborough Bay and runs N., with Orwell and Pownal Bays open- 
ing on the E. 

" Charlottetown Harbor, at its entrance between the cliffs of Blockhouse 
and Sea-Trout Point, is 450 fathoms wide, and, in sailing in, York River 
running northward, the Hillsborough River eastwardly, and the Elliot to the 
westward, surround the visitor with beautiful effects, and as he glides 
smoothly over their confluence, or what is called the Three Tides, he will 
feel, perhaps, that he has seen for the first time, should a setting sun gild 
the horizon, a combination of color and effect which no artist could ade- 
quately represent." 

Charlottetown, see page 175. 



CHARLOTTETOWN. RoiUe 44. 175 

44. Pictou to Prince Edward Island. 

To Charlottetown. 

The steamships of the P. E. I. Steam Navigation Company leave Pictou 
for Charlotteto^\Ti every Monday, Wednesday, Friday, and Saturday, on 
arrival of morning train from Halifax. Fare, $ 2. The distance is a little 
over 50 M. 

Soon after leaving the safe and pleasant harbor of Pictou, the steamer 
approaches Pictou Island, a hilly and well-wooded land 4 M. long, with a 
lighthouse and some farms. On the W. is Caribou Island, consisting of 
several islets united by sand-bars, and guarded by a lighthouse. There are 
pleasant views of the receding highlands of Nova Scotia; and the vessel 
moves easily through the quiet waters of the Northumberland Strait. 
"Prince Edward Island, as we approached it, had a pleasing aspect, and 
none of that remote friendlessness which its appearance on the map con- 
veys to one; a warm and sandy land, in a genial climate, without fogs, 
we are informed." 

After passing (on the r.) the long low Point Prim, the steamer sweeps 
around to the N. into Hillsborough Bay, and entei's the harbor of Char- 
lottetown. 



Pictou to Georgetown. 

The P. E. I. Steam Navigation Company's steamships leave Pictou for 
Georgetown ever}^ Tuesday and Friday; leaving Georgetown for Pictou 
on the same days. Fare from port to port, $ 2. The distance is nearly 
70 M. 

The chief incidents of this shoi-t voyage ai'e the views of Pictou Island; 
the approach to Cape Bear, the S. E. point of P. E. Island, backed by 
hills 200 ft. high ; and the ascent of the noble sheet of Cardigan Bay, be- 
tween Boughton and Panmure Islands.* 

Georgetown, see page ISl. 

45. Charlottetown. 

Arrival. — The steamer passes between St. Peter's Island (1.) and Governor's 
Island (r.) and ascends Hillsborough Bay for about 6 M. It then passes between 
Blockhouse Point (on the 1., M'ith a lighthouse) and Sea-Trout Point, and enters the 
harbor of Charlottetown, where there are 7-10 fathoms of water. Powerful cur- 
rents are formed here by the tides of the Hillsborough, York, and EUiot Rivers (or 
East, North, and West Rivers), which empty into this basin. 

Hotels. — St. Lawrence Hotel, Water St. ; Revere House, near the steamboat 
wharf ; Rankin House. The hotels of Charlottetown are only boarding-houses of 
average grade, and will hardly satisfy American gentlemen. Attempts are being 
made to erect a large summer-hotel here, though there seems to be but little to 
wari'ant such an enterprise. 

Steanisliips. — The Worcester or the Carroll leaves Charlottetown every 
Thursday for the Strait of Canso, Halifax, and Boston. Fares to Halifax, saloon 
state-room, ^6; cabin state-room, $5; cabin, $4; Halifax to Boston, S9, ^7.50, 



176 Roicte 45. CHARLOTTETOWN. 

and $ 5.50. The P. E. I. Steam Navigation Company's vessels St. Lawrence and 

Princess of Wales run between Charlottetown, Shediac, and Pictou (see Routes 43 
and 44). The Heathtr Belle plies about the bay and up the Hillsborough River, 
making also trips to Crapaud and OrweU. She runs up the Hillsborough River 
to Mount Stewart on Monday, Tuesday, Friday and Saturday; to Crapaud on 
Wednesday ; and to Orwell on AVednesday, Thursday and Friday (time-table of 
1874). 

Charlottetown, the capital of Prince Edward Island, is situated on 
gently rising ground on the N. side of the Hillsborough River, and fronts 
on a good harbor. It has about 12,000 inhabitants, with 2 daily and 4 
weekly newspapers, 4 banks, and 10 churches. The plan of the city is 
very regular, and consists of 6 streets, each 100 ft. wide, running E. and 
"W., intersecting 9 streets running from N". to S. There are 4 squares. 

The Colonial Building is the finest structure in the city. It stands 
on Queen's Square, at the head of Great George St., and is built of Nova- 
Scotia freestone (at a cost of S 85,000), The halls of the Legislative Coun- 
cil and House of Assembly ai-e on the second floor, and are handsomely 
furnished and adorned with portraits of the statesmen of Prince Edward 
Island. On the same floor is the Qolonial Library, containing a good col- 
lection of books relating to the history, laws, and physical characteristics 
of Canada and the British Empire. A pleasant view of the city and the 
rivers may be obtained from the cupola of the building. The Post Office 
is also on Queen's Square, and is a new and handsome stone building. 
Just beyond is the Market House, a great wooden structure covered with 
shingles. The principal shops of Charlottetown are about Queen's Square, 
and offer but little to be desired. The Roman Catholic Cathedral of St. 
Dunstan is a spacious wooden edifice on Great George St., near the Square. 

The extensive Convent of Notre Dame is on Hillsborough Square, and 
occupies a modeiTi brick building. The Prince of Wales College and the 
Normal School are on Weymouth St., in this vicinity. 

The old barracks and drill-shed are W. of Queen's Square, between 
Pownal and Sydney Sts., and are fronted by a parade-ground. The Gov- 
ernme7it House is on a point of land W. of the city, and overlooks the 
harbor. 

In 1748 the government of the island was vested in civil and military officers, 
whose residence was established at the W. entrance to the harbor of Port la Joie 
(Chai-lottetown), where they had a battery and a small garrison. It is said that the 
first French sailors who entered the inner harbor v. ere so pleased with its trauquil 
Icauty that thej' nan.ed it Port la Joie. There were no houses on the site of the 
city in 1752. The harbor was held by three British fiigates in 1746, but was ravaged 
by 200 Micmacs under the French Ensign Montesson. All the Engish found on the 
ghore were captured, but the Indians refused to attack the war-vessels. 

In 1768 Morris and De.'^champs arrived here with a small colon}', and erected huts. 
They laid out the streets of Charlottetown, which was soon estaLhsbed as the capi- 
tal of the island. In 1775 it v.as captured by two American war-vessels, which had 
been cruising in the Guif to carry otf the Quebec storeships. The sailors plundered 
the to^Tn, and led away several local dignitaries as prisoners, but Washington hb- 
erated the captives, and reprimanded the predatory cruisers. 

Charlottetown " has the appearance of a place from which something has de- 
parted ; a wooden town, with wide and vacant streets, and the air of waiting for 



ENVIRONS' OF CHARLOTTETOWN. Route 46. 177 

Bomefhing That the productive island, with its system of free schools, is ahout 

to enter upon a prosperous career, and that Oharlottetown is soon to become a place 
of great activity, no one who converses with the natives can doubt, and I think 
that even now no traveller will regret spending an hour or two there ; but it is 
necessary to say that the rosy inducements for tourists to spend the summer there 
exist only in the guide-books." 

Environs of Ckarlottetown. 

The Wesleyan College is on an eminence back of the city, and OTerlooks 
the harbor and the rivers. It has 10 instructors and about 300 students. 
St. Bunstan's College is a Catholic institution, which occupies the crest 
of a hill 1 M. from the city, and has 4 professors. There are several pretty 
villas in the vicinity of Oharlottetown; and the roads are very good during 
dry weather. Some travellers have greatly admired the rural scener}'- of 
these suburban roads, but others have reported them as tame and uninter- 
esting. The same conflict of opinion exists with regard to the scenery of 
the whole island. 

Southport is a village opposite Oharlottetown, in a pretty situation on the 
S. shore of the Hillsborough River. It is reached by a steam ferry-boat, 
which crosses every hour. 3 ]\I. from this place is the eminence called 
Tea Hill, whence a pleasing view of the parish and the bay may be ob- 
tained. A few miles beyond is the A^Uage of Pownal, at the head of 
Pownal Bay, and in a region prolific in oats and potatoes. 

46. Oharlottetown to Summerside and Tignish. — The 
Western Shores of Prince Edward Island. 

This region is traversed by the Prince Edward Island Railway, a narrow-gauge 
road which has recently been built by the Canadian government. This line was 
opened late in 1S74. 

Trains run from Oharlottetown to Summerside in 5 hrs. ; to Tignish in 10 hrs. 

Stations. — Charlottetown to St. Dunstan-s, 2 ; Cemeterv. 4 ; Royalty Junction 
5: Winsloe, 6i: Milton, 10; Colville, IS^- : N. Wiltshire, 17; Hunter River, 21 
Fredericton. 25 :' Elliotts, 27^ : Breadalbane, 29^ : County Lane, 32 ; Freetown, 35^ 
Blueshank, 39; Kensington,' 41 ; New Annan^ 42; Summerside, 49; Miscouche 
54; Wellington. 61; Richmond, 65i: Northam , 6S ; Port Hill, 71; EUerslie, 72i 
Conwav, 77: Portase, 80: Brae, 86^, O'Learv, 89: Bloomfipld, 95; Elmsdale, 100 
Alberton, 104 ; Montrose, 108 : De Blois, 112J; Tignish, 117. 

After leaving the commodious station-building, in the E. part of Ohar- 
lottetown, the train sweeps around the city, turning to the N. from the 
bank of the Hillsborough Elver. The suburban villas are soon passed, and 
the line traverses a level country to Royalty Junction, where the tracks 
to Souris and Georgetown (see Route 47) diverge to the N. E. The train 
now enters the main line, and runs W. through a fertile farming country, 
— "a sort of Arcadia, in which Shenstone would have delighted." The 
hamlets are small and the dwellings are ver}^ plain, but it is expected that 
the stations of the new railway will become the nuclei of future villages. 
The ti'ain soon crosses the head-waters of the York River, and reaches N. 
Wiltshii^e, beyond which is a line of low hills, extending across the island. 
4 M. beyond this point is the station of Hunter Eiver, whence a much- 
8* L 



1 78 Route 46. RUSTICO. 

travelled road leads to the N. to New Glasgow and Eustico, locally famous 
for pleasant marine scenery. 

Eustico is a quiet marine settlement, with two churches and a bank, 
and about 300 inhabitants. It is near Grand Eustico Harbor, and is one 
of the chief fishing stations of the N. shore. The original settlers were 
Acadians (in the year 1710), many of whose descendants remain in the 
township, and are peaceful and unprogressive citizens. The Ocean House 
(40 guests) is a small summer hotel near the sand-hills of the beach; and 
the facilities for boating, bathing, fishing, and gunning are said to be ex- 
cellent. The great fleets of the Gulf fishermen are sometimes seen off 
these shores. There is a pleasant drive up the Hunter Eiver to Neio Glas- 
gow (Eockem's inn), which was settled by men of Glasgow, under Alex- 
ander Cormack, the Newfoundland explorer, in 1829. The Hunter Eiver 
aifords good trouting. 

Grand Eustico Harbor is rendered unsafe by shifting bars of sand, and 
it was off this port that the Government steamer Rose was lost. On the 
coast to the N. W. are the hamlets of N. Eustico and Cavendish, the lat- 
ter of which is a Presbyterian farming settlement of 200 inhabitants. 

Kensington station is about 41 M. from Charlottetown, and is near the petty 
hamlet of the same name. To the N. E. is Grenville Harbor, with the estu- 
aries of three rivers, the chief of which is the Stanley. There are several 
marithue hamlets on these shores, and on the W. is New London, a neat 
Scottish settlement with two churches. A road also leads N. W. from 
Kensington to Princetown, a village of 400 inhabitants, situated on the 
peninsula between Eichmond Bay, ]March Water, and the Darnlej' Basin, 
This town was laid out (in 1766) with broad streets and squares, and was 
intended for the metropolis of the N. coast, but the expectations of the 
government were never realized, and " the ploughshare still turns up the 
sod, where it was intended the busy thoroughfare should be." Malpeque 
Harbor is the finest and safest on the N. shore of Prince Edward Island. 
A few miles E. are the lofty sandstone cliff's of Cape Tryon, near New Lon- 
don harbor. Princetown fronts on Richmond Bay, a capacious haven 
which runs in to the S. W. for 10 M., and contains 7 islands. Travellers 
have praised the beauty of the road from Princetown to Port Hill, which 
affords manj' pleasant views over the bay. 

Beyond Kensington the train runs S. W. across the rural plains of St. 
David's Parish, and passes out on the isthmus between Eichmond Bay and 
Bedeque Bay, where the island is only 3-4 M. wide. 9 M. from Kensing- 
ton it reaches Summerside. 

Summerside (two inns) is situated on the N. side of Bedeque Harbor, and 
is a town of about 3,000 inhabitants, with 8 churches, 5 schools, 2 weekly 
newspapers, and 2 banks. It is the port whence most of the products of 
the W. part of the island are sent out, and has grown rapidly of late years. 
The chief exports in 1882 were 600,000 bushels of oats, 110,000 bushels of 



SUMMERSIDE. Route 46. 179 

potatoes, 10,300 bushels of barley, 86,450 dozen of eggs, and 4,337 barrels 
of the famous Bedeque oysters. The wharves are long, in order to reach 
the deep water of the channel; and the houses of the town are mostly 
small wooden buildings. Considerable shipbuilding is done here. 

The * Island Park Hotel is a summer resort on an islet off the harbor, 
and is patronized by American tourists. There are accommodations for 
fishing and bathing, and a steam ferry-boat plies between the island and 
the town. The hotel commands a pleasant view of the Bedeque shores 
and the Strait of Northumberland. 

"This little seaport is intended to be attractive, and it would give these travellers 
great pleasure to describe it if they could at all reiueiiibcr how it looks. But it is a 
place that, like some faces, makes no sort of iuiprcssion on the memory. Wc went 
ashore there, and tried to take an interest in the shipbuilding, and in the little 
oysters which the harbor yields ; but whether mc did take an interest or not has 
passed out of memory. A small, unpioturesque, wooden town, in the languor of a 
provincial summer; why should wc pretend an interest in it which we did not feel? 
It did not disturb our reposeful fnmie of mind, nor much interfere with our enjoy- 
ment of the day." (Warneh's' Baddeck.) 

On leaving Summerside, the train runs out to the W., over a level region. 
To the N. is the hamlet of St. Eleanors (Ellison's Hotel), a place of 400 in- 
habitants, situated in a rich farming country. It enjoys the honor of being 
the shire-town of Prince County, and is about 2| M. from Summerside. 
3 M. from St. Eleanors is the rural village of Miscouche, inhabited by 
French Acadians. Wellington (Western Hotel) is a small hamlet and 
station 12 M. beyond Summerside, near the head of the Grand River, which 
flows into Richmond Bay. The Acadian settlements about Cape Egmont 
are a few miles to the S. W. 

The line passes on to Port Hill, a prosperous shipbuilding village on 
Richmond Bay. Near this place is Lennox Island, which is reserved for 
the Micmac Indians, and is inhabited by about 150 persons of that tribe. 
Between the bay and the Gulf of St. Lawrence is George Island, Avhich is 
composed of trap-rock and amygdaloid, and is regarded as a curious geo- 
logical intrusion in the red sandstone formations of the Prince-Edward 
shores. The train runs N. W. over the isthmus between the Cavendish 
Inlet and the Percival and Enmore Rivers, and soon enters the North 
Parish. This region is thinly inhabited by French and British settlers, 
and is one of the least prosperous portions of the island. The line passes 
near Brae., a settlement of 300 Scotch farmers, near the trout-abounding 
streams of the Parish of Halifax. To the S. W. is the sequestered marine 
hamlet of West Point, wliere a town has been laid out and preparations 
made for a commerce which does not come. The coast trends N. by E. 
6 M. from West Point to Cape Wolfe, whence it runs N. E. by E. 27 M. to 
North Point, in a long unbroken strand of red clay and sandstone cliffs. 

Alberton (two inns) is one of the northern termini of the railway, and 
is a prosperous village of 800 inhabitants, with five churches and an 



180 Route 47. TIGNISH. 

American consular agency. It is situated on Cascumpeci harbor, and is 
engaged in shipbuildiDg and the fisheries. The American fishing-schooners 
often take relugc in tliis liarbor. The neighboring rural districts are fer- 
tile and thickly populated, and produce large quantities of oats and pota- 
toes. This town was the birthplace of the Gordons, the heroic mission- 
aries at Kromanga, one of whom was martyred in 1861, the other in 
1&72. S. of Albcrton is Holland Bay, which was named in honor of him- 
self by Major Holhmd, the English surveyor of the island; and 6-8 M. N. 
is Cape K 11 dare. 

Tignish {Jiyan's Hotel) is the extreme northern point reached by the 
railway, and is 117 M. from Charlottetown. It has about 200 inhabitants, 
and is one of the most important fishing-stations on the island. The in- 
habitants are mostly French and Scotch, and support a Catholic church 
and convent. There are several other French villages in this vicinity, 
concerning which the historian of the island says: "They are all old set- 
tlements. The nationality of the people has kept them together, until 
their farms are subdivided into small portions, and their dwellings are 
numerous and close together. Few are skilful farmers. Many prefer to 
obtain a living by fishing rather than farming. They are simple and in- 
offensive in their manners; quiet and uncomplaiifmg, and easily satisfied. 
The peculiarities of their race are not yet extinct; and under generous 
treatment and superior training, the national enterprise and energy, polite- 
ness and refinement, would gradually be restored." 

North Puint is about 8 M. N. of Tignish, and is reached by a sea-view- 
ing road among tlic sand-dunes. It has u lighthouse, which sustains a 
powerful light, and is an important point in the navigation of the Gulf. 

47. Charlottetown to Georgetown. 

By the Prince Edward Island Railway. 

StatioiiH. — Charlottetown; lloyalty Junction, 5 M. ; Mount Stewart, 22; Car- 
digan, 40 ; Georgetown , 46. 

Beyond Royalty Junction the train diverges to the N. E., and follows the 
course of the IlilJsborougli River, though generally at some distance from 
the shore. The banks of this stream are the most favored part of that 
prosperous land of which Dr. Cuyler says: "It is one rich, rolling, arable 
farm, from Cape East clear up to Cape North." As early as 1758 there were 
2,000 French colonists about this river. The Hillsborough is 30 M. long, 
and the tide ascends for 20 M. Much produce is shifjped from these shores 
during the autumnal months. About 8 M. beyond the Junction the line 
crosses French Fort Creek, on whose banks the French troops erected a 
fortification to protect the short portage (1^ M.) across the island, from 
the river to Tracadie Harbor. Here the military domination was surren- 

1 Cascumpec, an Indian word, meaning " Flowing through Sand." 



GEORGETOWN . Eottte 47. 181 

dered to the British expeditionary forces. To the N. W. are the Gaelic 
villages of Covehead and Tracadie, now over a century old; near which 
is the sandy l;i,c;oon of Tracadio Harbor. At the place called Scotch Fort 
the French built the first church on the islaml, and in this vicinity fho 
earliest Brilish settlers located. From the French Catholic church on the 
lofty hill at St. Andrews, a few miles to the N. E., a beautiful view is 
obtained over a rich rural country. 

Mount Stewart (two inns) is a prosperous little shipbuildinp; village, 
whence the steamer Jicalher Belle nuis to Charlottetown. The train 
crosses the river at this point, and at Mount Stewart Junction it turns 
to the S. E., while the Souris Railway diverges to the N. E. The country 
which is now traversed is thinly settled, and lies about the head-waters of 
the Morrell and Fisquid Rivers. There are scvenil small hikes in this 
region, and forests are seen on either hand. At C(ir(Ii(/an{?.ma\\ inn) tho 
line reaches the head-waters of the eastern rivers. A road leads hence to 
the populous settlements on the Vernon River and Pownal Bay. 

Georgetown {Commercial Hotel) is the capital of King's County, and 
has about 800 inhabitants. It is situated on tho long peninsida between 
the Cardigan and Brudenelle Rivers, and its harbor is one of the best on 
the island, being deep and secure, and the last to be closed by ice. The 
county buildings, academy, and Episcopal church are on Kent Square. 
The chief business of the town is in tho exportation of produce, and ship- 
building is carried on to some extent. The town is well laid out, but its 
growth has been very slow. Steamers ply between this port, Pictou, and 
the Magdalen Islands (see Routes 44 and 40). Tiie harbor is reached by 
ascending Cardigan Bay and passing the lighthouses on Panmure Head 
and St. Andrew's Point. 

Monfar/ue Bridge (Montaguo House) is reached from Georgetown by a 
ferry of C M. and 11 M. of stnging. It has 350 inhabitants and several 
mills. To tho S. E. is St. Mary's Bay. About 20 M. S. of Georgetown is 
Murray Harbor^ on which there are several Scottish villages. From Capo 
Bear the coast trends W. for 27 M. to Point Prim. 



' No land can boast more rich supply, 
Tliiit c"or was found ))CMi('al.h tlic sky ; 
No i)iiror strciiins liavi; over llowcnl, 
Since llcavon tliat bountcouH gift bestowed. 

And luM-rini!;, like a niipihty liost, 

And cod and niackorel, crowd the coast." 



" In this fine island, lonp nop;lcctod, 
Much, it in thoucjht, nii,t!;iifc bo eflccted 
By industry and ap|)lication, — 
Sources of wealth with every nation." 



182 Route 48. ST. PETER'S. 



48. Charlottetowii to Souris. 

By the Prince Edward Tnland RjiHway. 

HtntUtnu. — Charlottetown ; Royalty Junction, M. ; Mount Stewart, 22 ; Mor- 
rell,.'JO; St. Petor'n, aSi ; ILmriony, 50 ; SouriH, 00^. 

Cliarlotfotown to Mount Stowiirt, see page 181. 

At Mount Slewart Junction the train diverges to the N. E., and soon 
reaches Morrell, a fishing-station on the Morrell River, near St. Peter's 
Bay. 

St. Peter's (Prairie I/otd) was from the first the most important port 

on the N. shore of the island, on account of its rich salmon-fisheries. 

About the year 1750 the French government endeavored to restrict the 

fishing of the island, and to stimulate its agriculture, by closing all the 

ports except St. Peter's and Tracadie. The village is now quite small, 

though the salmon-fishery is valuable. St. Peter's Bay runs 7 M. into 

the land, but it is of little use, since there is only 5 ft. of water on its 

sandy bar. From this inlet to East Point the shore is unbroken, and is 

formed of a line of red sandstone cliffs, 33 M. long. 

" Tho fioa-trout fiHliin^^, in the bays and harborH of Prince Edward THland, espe- 
cially in .fnrii:, wlicri Ux; fmli firKfc ruKli in from tlii! f:;ulf, iw really nia^nificent. They 
avcra^^e from .'i to 5 jioundH (rach. I found the best fmliitif^ at Kt. J'eter'ri liay, on 
tlx! N. 8iil(! uf tlio iHland, alKnifc 28 M. from (Jliarlottotown. I tlicre killed in one 
morning IG front, wiiicli wcif^licd HO pr)undH. In tin; hayH and along tlie coasts of 
the island th(!y are tiiUcn with the Hcarlct fly, from a boat unrlor easy Hail, with a 
• m.-icken-l hrcezo,' and FoniotimcH a li(;avy ' (ground Hwell.' 'J"he lly HkipH from wave 
to v/ave at the; cud of .'iO yardw of line, jind there Hlionld be at leant 70 yarij? more on 
the reel. It iH fipl(^ndid Hport, an a Htroof? fiKh will iriake fsometimcH a long run, and 
give a good chaHe down the wind." (J'KULi;y.) 

Harmony stalion is near Rollo Bay, which was named in honor of Lord 
Rollo, who occupied the island with British troops in 1758. There is a 
small hamlet on this bay; and to the S. W. are the Gaelic settlements of 
DunduR, Bridgetown, and Annandale, situated on the Grand River. 

Souris (three inns) is a village of Catholic IIi;:';lilnnders, pleasantly 
sitiiatcfl on the N. side of Colville Bay, and divided into two portions by 
the Souris River. The harbor is shallow, but is being improved by a break- 
water. The shore-fishing is pursued in fleets of dories, and most of the 
produce of the adjacent (;ountry is shipped from Souris to the French Isle 
of St. Pierre (see page 185). There is a long sand}' beach on the W. of the 
village, and on the S. and E. is a bold headland. Souris was settled by 
the Acadians in 1748; and now contains about 500 inhabitants. 

The I'Jist Parish extends for several leagues E. of Souri.s, and includes 
the sea-shore hamlets of Red Point, I>ot!iw(!ll, East Point, North Lake, and 
Fairfield. Tlie Fast and North Lakes are long and shallow lagoons on the 
coast. East Point is provided with a first-class fixed light, which is 130 
ft. above the sea and is visible for 18 M. 



MAGDALEN ISLANDS. Route 49. 183 



49. The Mag^daleii Islands. 

These remote islands are sonietinies visited, diirinsj; the sinunier, hy flshing-par- 
ties, who liud rave siu>rt in oatehiu.u; the wiiite sea-trout that a.bouiui in the vicinity. 
The acconniiodations for vi.sjtor-s are of the most primitive kiud, but many defects 
are atoned for by the liospitality of tlie people. 

The mail-steamer Alhrrt leaves Picton for (J(>orp;eto\vn (P. E. T.") and the IMajrdalea 
Islands every alternate ^^'e(lnesday. Slie also leaves Pietou for Port Hood (Capo 
Breton) every Monday evening, retm-uiug ou the following morning. (Time-lablo 
of 1874 ) 

Fares. — Halifax to Port Hood, ^ 4.(i0 ; to Georgetown, 1 4.10 ; to the Magdalen 
Ishnids, iff S. Further partieulars may bo obtained by addressing James King, mail- 
contractor, Halifax. 

The Magdalen Islands are thirteen in number, and are situated at the 
entrance to the Gulf of St. Lawrence, 50 M. from East Pohit {P. E. I.), 
60 M. from Cape North (C. B.), 120 M. from Cape Ray (N. F.), and 150 M. 
from Gaspd. When they are lirst seen from the sea, they present the ap- 
pearance of well-detached islets, but on a nearer api)roach several of them 
are seen to be connected witli each other by double lines of sandy beaches, 
forming broad and quiet salt-water lagoons. The inhabitants are mostly 
Acadian fisliermen (speaking French only), devoted to the ])ursuit of the 
immense schools of cod and mackerel that visit the neighboring waters. 
At certain seasons of the year the harbors and lagoons are fdled with 
hundreds of sail of fishing-vessels, most of which are American and Pro- 
vincial. Seal-hunting is carried on here with much success, as extensive 
fields of ice drift down against the shores, bearing myriads of seals. On 
one occasion over G, 000 seals were killed here in less than a fortnight by 
parties going out over the ice from the shore. This is also said to bo the 
best place in America for the lobster fishery, and a Portland company has 
recently founded a canning establishment here. On account of their 
abundant returns in these regards the Magdalen Islands have received the 
fitting title of " The Kingdom of Fish." In order to protect these interests 
the Dominion armed cutter La Canadienne usually spends the summer in 
these waters, to prevent encroachments by Americans and Frenchmen. 

Amherst Island is the chief of the group, and is the seat of the principal 
village, the custom-house, and the public buildings. On its S. point is a 
red-and-white revolving light which is visible for 20 M. ; and the hills in the 
interior, 550 ft. high, are seen from a great distance by day. The village has 
3 churches and the court-house, and is situated on a small harbor which 
opens on the S. of Pleasant Bay, a broad and secure roadstead where hun- 
dreils of vessels sometimes Aveather heavy storms in safety. 1 M. N. W. 
of the village is the singular conical hill called the Demoiselle (280 fl. high), 
whence the bay and a great part of the islands may bo seen. 

Grindstone Island is 5-G M. N. of Amherst, and is comiected with it 
by a double line of sand-beaches, which enclose the wide lagoon called 
Basque Harbor. It is 5 M. long, and has a central hill 650 ft. high, while 
on the W. shore is the lofty conical promontory of sandstone which the 



184 Route 49. MAGDALEN ISLANDa 

Aoadians call Cap de Mmh. On the same sit.le is the thriving hamlet of 
Vi^tang du Nord. On the E., axicl containing 7 square miles, is Alright 
Island, terminated by the grayish-white olitl>i of Cape Ah'ight, over 400 
ft. high. A sand-beach runs N. K. 10 M. ftx>m Grindstone to Wolf Island, 
» sandstone ivck | M. long; and another beach runs thence 9 M. tarther 
to the N. K. to Gtsm^ J^and^otk the Gmnd Lagoon* This island has another 
)ine of lofty clitic of sandstone. To- the E. is Ooj^n Island^ and 4 M. N. is 
Br^oti Idctndr beyond which are the Hiwl Isles* 

Entry Island lies to the E. of Amherst Island, oif the entrance to 
Pleasant Uay, and is the most picturesqne of the givup. Kear the centre 
)» a hill 5S0 ft. high, visible ft>r 8* W., and ftxnn whose summit the 
Yfhole Magdalen group can be overlooked. The wozulerfUl ditlst of red 
sandstone which line the shores of this island ai-e very pictui-esque in their 
effect, And reach a height of 400 ft. 

Deadman's Isl© is a ixigged rock 8 M. W. of Amherst, and derives it$ 
name flvm the ftnicied resemblance of its contour to that of a corpse laid 
out for burial. While passing this rook, in 1S04, Tom Mwre wrote the 
poem which ck>ses: 



** There lieth a wreck, ou the dismal shore 
Of eokl anU pitiless Labrudw, 
Where, uuUer the jhoou, uiK>ix »>ounts of 

inxst, 
F\»U mau.v a mariner's boaea are tossed. 

♦'Yon shadowy bark hath been to thstt wreck, 
And the dim blue tixe that lights her deck 



I>oth play on as pale and Hvid a erew 
As ever yet drauk the church^' aid dew. 

To l>eadn>aB's Isle in the eye of the blast* 
To Deadmau's Isle she spt-tds her fast ; 
By skeletv>n shapes her sails are furled. 
And the haud that steers is not of thU 
world." 



The Bird Isles ai^e two bare rocks of red sandstone, | M. apart, the chief 
of which is known as Gannet Rock, and is 1,300 tl. long and 100-140 ft. 
high, linei.1 with vertical clifts. These isles are haunted by immense nunt- 
bers of sea-biixls, gannets^ guillemots, putiins, ki^iwakes„ and razor-billed 
auks. '' No other breeding-place on our shore is so remarkable at onc« 
fbr the tiumber and variety of the species occupying it." Immense quan- 
tities of eggs are carried theuco by the islanders, but to a less extent than 
fbrmerly. 

This great ttaturftt curiosity ^as visited ia 1632 by the Jesuits (wbo catted the rwk$ 
tes Colombiers), \>y Heriot iu li>07, by Audubou, aud iu ISbt* oy Ih". Bryan. The 
Pounttiou has ivceutly ei-e*.>tt\l a lighthouse hciv at great expeuse, aud to the imuiiueut 
peiil of tha>ie eogaj4\H.l iu the work, siuce there is uo laudiug-place, awd iu breeay 
weather the surfdt»shes violently agniust the cUtfs all arouud. Tlxe tower bears a 
fixed white light of the first class, which is visible for 21 M. 

Charlevoix visite<.l these islands iu 1720, aud woadci\xl how, " in such a Multitude 
©if Nests, everv Bii\l iiamtxliately fiuds her owu. We fired a Guu, which gave the 
Alarm thro- all this flying Commonwealth, and theiv was formed above the two 
Islands, a thick Cloud of these Bix-ds, which was at least two or ttiree Leagues 
arouud '' 

The Magdalen Islands were visited by Cartier in 1534, but the first permanent sta- 
tioa was founded hei-e in ItR^S by a company of Uoutleur marinei-s, to whom the 
islands weiv (.-once^-led by the Company of New France In IT'iO the Puchcss of 
Orleans gitmted them to the Count de S^t. Pierre. In 1763 they were inhabited by 
10 Acadiau ^miliets, aud in ll'$l a Bostoxuan named igtridley tbuudiid ou Amherst 



ST. PIERRE AND MIQUELON. Route 50. 185 

Island an establishment for trading and for the seal and walrus fisheries. During 
the Re\'olution American jjrivateers visited the islands, and destroyed everything 
accessible. Gridley returned after the war, but the walrus soon became extinct, 
and the islanders turned their attention to the cod and herring fisheries. When 
Admiral Coffin received his grant there were 100 families here ; in 1831 there were 
1,000 inhabitants; and the present population is about 3,500. In the mean time 
three colonies have been founded and i;opulated from these islands, on Labrador and 
the N. shore. The Lord's-Day Gale (see page 170) wrought sad havoc among the 
fleets in these waters. 

Tradition tells that when Capt. CofiBn was conveying Governor-General Lord Dor- 
chester to Canada in his frigate, a furious storm arose in the Gulf, and the skilful 
mariner saved his vessel by gaining shelter under the lee of these islands. Dorches- 
ter, grateful for his preservation, secured for the captain the grant of the islands 
"in free and common soccage,"' with the rights of building roads and fortifications 
reserved to the Crown. The grantee was a native of Boston and a benefactor of 
Nantucket, and subsequently became Admiral Sir Isaac Coffin. The grant now 
belongs to his nephew, Admiral Coffin, of Bath, and is an entailed estate of the 
family. In 1873, 75 years after the grant, the legislature of Quebec (in whose juris- 
diction the islands lie) made extensive investigations with a view to buy out the pro- 
prietor's claim, since many of the islanders had emigrated to Labrador and the 
Mingan Isles, dissatisfied with their uncertain tenure of the land. 

50. St. Pierre and Miquelon. 

The Angle-French Steamship Company dispatches the steamer Geors:e Shattuck 
from Halifax to Sydney and St. Pierre every alternate Saturday during the season 
of navigation. She leaves St. Pierre every alternate Friday. The voyage to Sydney 
has recently been made by way of St. Peter's Canal and the Bras d-Or, but it "is not 
likely that that route will be adopted in preference to the outside course. 

Fares from Halifax to Sydney, cabin, .§ 10, steerage, SG ; to St. Pierre, cabin, 
$15, steerage, .§8; Sydney to St. Pierre, cabin, S9, steerage, .$6. The price of 
meals is included in the cabin-fares. Further information may be obtained by ad- 
dressing Joseph S. Belcher, Boak's Wharf, Halifax. 

St. Pierre may also be visited by the Western Coastal steamer from St John's, 
N. F. (see Route 60). 

There are several French cafes and pensions in the village of St. Pierre, at which 
the traveller can find indiS'erent accommodations. The best of these is that at which 
the telegraph-operators stop. 

On entering the harbor of St. Pierre, the steamer passes Galantry Head, on which 
is a red-and-white flash-light which is visible for 20 M., and also two fog-guns. 
Within the harbor are two fixed lights, one white and one red, which are visible for 
6 M. ; and the Isle aux Chiens contains a scattered fishing-village. 

The island of St. Pierre is about 12 M. from Point ]\Iav, on tlie New- 
foundland coast, and is 12 M. in circumference. It is mostly composed of 
rugged porphyritic ridges, utterly arid and barren, and the scenery is of 
a striking and singular character. Back of the village is the hill of Cal- 
vaire, surmounted by a tall cross; and to the S. W., beyond Ravenel Bay, 
is the lakelet called D Etang du Savoyard. The town is compactly built on 
the harbor at the E. of the island, and most of its houses are of stone. It 
is guarded by about 50 French soldiers, whose presence is necessary to 
keep the multitudes of fearless and pugnacious sailors from incessant riot- 
ing. There is a large force of telegraph-operators here, in charge of the 
two cables from America to Great Britain by way of Newfoundland, and 
of the Franco-American cable, which inins E. to Brest and S. W. to Dux- 
bury, in Massachusetts. 

The only good house in the town is that of the Governor; and the Cath- 



186 Route 50. ST. PIERRE AND MIQUELON. 

olic church and convent rise prominently over the low houses of the fisher- 
men. Near the sea is a battery of ancient guns, which are used only for 
warning in season of fogs. The buildings are nearlj" all of wood, and in- 
clude many shops, where every variety of goods may be obtained. The 
merchants are connected with French and American firms. There are 
numerous cabarets, or drinking-saloons ; and the auberges, or small taverns, 
are thoroughly French. The citizens are famed for then* hospitality to 
properly accredited strangers; and the literary culture of the community 
is served by a diminutive weekly paper called La Feuille Officielle, printed 
on a sheet of foolscap, and containing its serial Parisian feuilleton. 

The street of St. Pierre presents a very interesting sight during the 
spring and fall. It is crowded with many thousands of hardy fishermen, 
arrayed in the quaint costumes of their native shores, — Normans, Bretons, 
Basques, Provincials, and New-Englanders, — all active and alert; while 
the implements of the fisheries are seen on every side. The envii'ons of 
the town are rocky and utterly unproductive, so that the provisions used 
here are imported from the Provinces. 

The resident population is 3,187 (of whom 24 are Protestant), and the 
government is conducted by a Commandant, a Police Magistrate, Doctor, 
Apostolic Prefect, and Engineer, with a few artillerists and gens-d'armes. 
There is usually one or more French frigates in the harbor, looking after 
the vast fisheries which employ 15,000 sailors of France, and return 
30,000,000 francs' worth of fish. 

St. Pierre is the chief rendezvous of the French fishermen, and immen.se fleets are 
sometimes gathered here. Over 1,000 sail of square-rigged vessels from France are 
engaged in these fisheries, and on the 29tli of June, 1874, the roadstead near the 
island contained 350 sail of square-rigged vessels and 300 fore-and-aft vessels. They 
are here furnished with supplies, which are drawn from the adjacent Provinces, and 
in return leave many of the luxuries of Old France. It is claimed that the brandy 
of St. Pierre is the best in America. The fishermen leave their fish here to be cured, 
and from this point they are sent S. to the United States and the West Indies. 

Little Miquelon Island, or Langley Island, lies 3 M. N. W. of St. Pierre, and is 
about 24 M. around. It is joined to Great Miquelon Island by a long and 
narrow sandy isthmus. The latter island is 12 M. long, and looks out on Fortune 
Bay. Near its N. end are the singular hills known as Mt. Chapeau and Mt. Cal- 
vaire. On this island, during the summer of 1874, was wrecked H. B. M. frigate 
Niobe, the brave ship that trained her guns on Santiago de Cuba, and prevented a 
total massacre of the Virginius prisoners. 

St. Pierre was captured by a British fleet in 1793, and all its inhabitants, 1,502 in 
number, were carried away to Halifax, whence they were soon afterwards sent to 
France. In 1796 a French Republican fleet under Admiral Richery visited the de- 
serted island, and completely destroyed its buildings and wharves. It was, how- 
ever, restored to France in 1814, together with her ancient privileges in these 
waters. "All the island is only a great laboratory for the preparation, curing, 
and exportation of codfish. For the rest, not a tree, not a bush, above 25 centi- 
metres." 



NEWFOUNDLAND 



Is bounded on the W. by the Gulf of St. Lawrence, on the N. by the 
Strait of Belle Isle, and on the E. and S. by the Atlantic Ocean. From 
N. to S. it is 350 M. long, and the average breadth is 130 M., giving an 
estimated area of 40,200 square miles. The coast is steep and bold, and 
is indented with numerous deep bays and fiords. Mines of lead and cop- 
per are being worked with much success, an"d there are large undeveloped 
deposits of coal on the W coa^t. 

" Up go the surges on the coast of Newfoundland, and down again into the sea. 
The huge island .... stands, with its sheer, beetling cliffs, out of the ocean, a mon- 
strous mass of rock and gi-avel, almost without soil, like a strange thing from the 
bottom of the great deep, lifted up suddenly into sunshine and storm, but belong- 
ing to the watery darkness out of which it lias been reared. The eye accustomed to 
richer and softer scenes finds something of a strange and almost startling beauty in 
its bold, hard outlines, cut out on every side against the sky Inland sur- 
rounded by a fringe of small forests on the coasts, is a vast wilderness of moss, and 
rock, and lake, and dwarf firs about breast-high. These little trees are so close and 
si iff and flat-topped that one can almost walk on them. Of course they are very hard 
things to make way through and among. .... In March or April almost all the 
men go out in fleets to meet the ice that floats down from the northern regions and 
to kill the seals that come down on it. In early summer a third part or a half of 
all the people go, by families, in their schooners, to the coast of Labrador, and 
spend the summer fishing there ; and in the winter, half of them are living iu the 
woods, in tilts, to have their fuel near them. At home or abroad, during the sea- 
son, the men are on the water for seals or cod. The women sow, and plant, and 
tend the little gardens, and dry the fish; in short, they do the land-work, and are 
the better for it." (R. T. S. Lowell.) 

Two of the most remarkable features of the natural history of the island 
are thus quaintly set forth by Whitbourne {anno 1622) : " Neither are there 
any Snakes, Toads, Serpents, or any other venomous Wormes that ever 
were knowne to hurt any man in that country, but only a very little nim- 
ble fly (the least of all other flies), which is called a Miskieto; those flies 
seem to have a great power and authority upon all loytering and idle peo- 
ple that come to the Newfoundland." Instances have been known where 
the flies have attacked men with such venom and multitudes that fatal 
results have followed. In the interior of the island are vast unexplored 
regions, studded with large lakes and mountain-ranges. Through these 
solitudes roam countless thousands of deer, which are pursued by the Mic- 
mac hunters. 

Newfoundland was discovered by the Norsemen in the tenth century, 
but they merely observed the coast and made no further explorations. 



188 Route 51. NEWFOUNDLAND. 

There is good reason for supposing that it was frequented by Breton and 

Norman fishermen during the fourteenth century. In 1497 the island was 
formally discovered by John Cabot, who was voyaging under the patron- 
age of Henry VII. of England. The explorations of Cortereal (1501), Ve- 
razzano (1524), and Cartier (1534), all touched here, and great fishing- 
fleets began to visit the surrounding seas. . Sir Humphrey Gilbert took 
possession of Newfoundland in the name of England, in 1583, making 
this the most ancient colony of the British Empire. The settlements 
of Guy, Whitbourne, Calvert, and others were soon established on the 
coast. 

The fishermen were terribly persecuted by pirates during the earlier 
part of the 17th century. Peter Easton alone had 10 sail of corsairs on the 
coast, claiming that he was "master of the seas," and levying heavy 
taxes on all the vessels in these waters. Between 1612 and 1660 alone, 
the pirates captured 180 pieces of ordnance, 1,080 fishermen, and large 
fleets of vessels. 

Between 1692 and 1713 the French made vigorous attempts to conquer 
the island, and the struggle raged with varying fortunes on the E. and S. 
shores. By the Treaty of Utrecht the French received permission to catch 
and cure fish along the W. coast (see Route 61). In 1728 Newfoundland 
was formed into a Province, and courts were established. The French made 
determined attacks in 1761 and 1796, and the people were reduced to 
great extremity by the Non-Intercourse Act passed by the American Con- 
gress in 1776 and again in 1812-14. In 1817 there were 80,000 inhab- 
itants, and 800 vessels were engaged in the fisheries, whose product was 
valued at $ 10,000,000 a year. In 1832 the first Legislative Assembly was 
convened; in 1838 a geological survey was made; and in 1858 the Atlan- 
tic telegraph-cable was landed on these shores. Newfoundland has re- 
fused to enter the Dominion of Canada, and is stiU governed directl}' by 
the British Crown. 



51. Halifax to St. John's, Newfoundland. 

The ocean steamships between Halifax and Liverpool call at St John's fortnightly. 
Their course after leaTing Halifax is directly to the N. E. across the open sea, giving 
Cape Race a wide berth. The fare on these vessels is higher than it is on the Virgo, 
and the accommodations are superior ; but the voyager does not get the interesting 
views of the Canso and Cape-Breton shores. 

Cromwell-Line steamships run fortnightly between New York, Halifax, and St. 
John's. The fare is S 15 or S5. They are well arranged for passenger-traffic. 
Also, steamships of the Allan Line. 

Halifax to Sydney, see page 148. 

After leaving the harbor of Sydney, Flint Island is seen on the r., and the 
blue ranges of the St. Anne Mts. on the 1. The course is but little N. of 
E., and the horizon soon becomes level and landless. Sometimes the dim 
blue hills of St. Pierre are the first land seen after the Cape-Breton coast 



ST. JOHN'S. Route 52. 189 

sinks below the horizon; but generally the bold mountain-promontory of 
Cape Chapeau Rouge is the first recognizable shore. Then the deep bight 
of Placentia Bay opens away on the N. After rounding Cape Race (see 
page 199), the steamship stretches away up the Strait Shore past a line 
of fishing hamlets, deep fiords, and rocky capes. 

" When the mists dispersed, the rocky shores of Newfoundland were close upon 
our left, — lofty cliffs, red and gray , terribly beaten by the waves of the broad ocean. 
We amused ourselves, as we passed abreast the bays and headlands and rugged 
islands, with gazing at the wild scene, and searching out the beauty timidly reposing 
among the bleak and desolate. On the whole, Newfoundland, to the voyager from 
the States, is a lean and bony land, in thin, ragged clothes, with the smallest amount 
of adornment. Along the sides of the dull, brown mountains there is a suspicion 
of verdure, spotted and striped here and there with meagre woods of birch and fir. 
The glory of this hard, region is its coast; a wonderful perplexity of fiords, bays and 
creeks, islands, peninsulas and cajtes, endlessly picturesque, and very often magnifi- 
cently grand. Nothing can well exceed the headlands and precipices, honeycombed, 
shattered, and hollowed out into vast caverns, and given up to the thunders and the 
fury of the deep-sea billows. ... The brooks that flow from the highlands, and fall 
over cliffs of great elevation into the very surf, and that would be counted features 
of grandeur in some countries, are here the merest trifles, a kind of jewelry on the 
hem of the landscape." (Noble.) 

" The first view of the harbor of St. John''s is very striking. Lofty precipitous 
cliffs, of hard dark-red sandstone and conglomerate, range along the coast, with deep 
water close at their feet. Their beds plunge from a height of 400-700 ft., at an angle 
of 70°, right into the sea, where they are ceaselessly dashed against by the unbroken 
Bwell of the Atlantic waves. " (Jukes . ) 

52. St. John's, Newfoundland. 

Arrival from the Sea. — " The harbor of St. John's is certainly one of the 

most remarkable for bold and effective scenery on the Atlantic shore We were 

moving spiritedly forward over a bright and lively sea, watching the stern headlands 
receding in the south, and starting out to view in the north, when we passed Cape 
Spear, a lofty promontory, crowned with a lighthouse and a signal-staff, upon which 
was floating the meteor flag of England, and at once found ourselves abreast the 
bay in front of St. John's. Not a vestige, though, of anything like a city was in 
sight, except another flag flitting on a distant pinnacle of rock. Like a mighty 
Coliseum, the sea-wall half encircled the deep water of this outer bay, into which 
the full power of the ocean let itself under every wind except the westerly. Right 
towards the coast where it gathered itself up into the greatest massiveness, and tied 
itself into a very Gordian knot, we cut across, curious to behold when and where the 
rugged adamant was going to spHt and let us through. At length it opened, and we 
looked through, and presently glided through a kind of mountain-pass, with all the 
lonely grandeur of the Franconia Notch. Above us, and close above, the rugged, 
brown cliffs rose to a fine height, armed at certain points with cannon, and before 
us, to all appearance, opened out a most beautiful mountain lake, with a little city 
looking down from the mountain-side, and a swamp of shipping along its shores. We 
were in the harbor, and before St. John's." (Noble.) 

Hotels. — The Union House, 379 Water St. (nearly 1 M. from the Custom House), 
is the best; Atlantic House, Water St. There are also two or three boarding- 
houses, which are preferable to the hotels, if a long stay is to be made. Mrs. 
Simms's, 353 Water St. , is one of the best of these ; and Knight's Home, 173 Water St., 
is tolerable. The accommodations for visitors to St. John's are not such as might 
be desired or expected in a city of so much importance. 

Carriages may be engaged at the stands ou Water St. (near the Post-Office). 
The rate per hour is 80c. 

Amusements, generally of merely local interest, are prepared in Temper- 
ance Hall or the Avalon (Victoria) Rink. Boat-racing is frequently carried on at 
Quiddy-Viddy Pond. Cricket-matches are also played on the outskirts of the city. 

Post-Office, at the Market House, on Water St. Telegraph., New York, New- 
foundlaud, and London Co., at the Market House. 



190 Route 62, ST. JOHN'S. 

Mail-waffons leave St. John's for Portugal Cove, daily ; to Bay Bulla and 
Fcrryland, weekly ; to Salmonier and Placentia, on the day of arrival of the Hali- 
fax iTiuil. Itailroatl to jjoints on Conception B;iy. 

StcamKhips. — For IJay-de-Verds, Trinity, Catalina, Bonavista, Kind's Cove, 
Grccnppond, Fo^o, TwillinRate, Exploits Island, Little Bay Ipland, Tilt Cove, Bott's 
Cove, Nipptir's Ilarbor, and tlio Labrador coa«t ; to Fcrryland, Kenewse, Trepasscy, 
Bnrin, Rt. Lawrence, Grand B;i,nk, St. Picirre, Ilarhnr Briton, Onnltois, Great Jcrvoif), 
Btirf^oo, Littlo 15.'i,y (La Poilc), llnsn Blanche Channel, and Sydney. Fares (nneals 
inclnd('d) to Bay-ilo-Verds or Fcrryland, 1 ) s. ; Trinity or Placentiii,, 20 s. ; 
Catalina or Burin, 20 s. ; Fo^^o or St. Pierre, 32 s. Gd.; Tilt Cove, 40 s.; Ro.se 
Blanche, 50 s. ; Sydney, 70s. These steamships to the Northern and Western out- 
ports leave about every ten days, and connect with the Jlercidea for Lnbnidor. 
The Vrtle.Ua and Pofino run from St. John's to Picfou and Montreal every fort- 
night, in summer. The Cromwell Lino runs fortniuihtly steamships from St. John's 
to II'ilifMX and New York. The Allan-Line ste;unships run from Baltimore or Hali- 
fax to St. John's fortnightly ; and thence continue on to Liverpool. 

St. John's, the capital of the Province of Newfoundland, is situated in 
latitude AT 33' G" N., and longitude 52" 44' 1" W., and i.s built on the 
slope of a long hill which rises from the shore of a deep and secure har- 
bor. At the time of tlio census of 1669 there were 22,555 inhabitants in 
the city (there are now over 35,000): but the population, owing to the 
peculiar character of its chief industry, is liable at any time to be in- 
creased or diminished by several thousand men. The greater part of the 
citizens arc connected with the fisheries, directly or indirectly, and large 
fleets are de.'^patclicd from the port throughout the season. Their return, 
or the arrival of the scaling-steamers, witli their great crews, brings new 
life to the streets, and oftentimes results in such general "rows" as re- 
quire the attendance of a large police-force. The interests of the city are 
all with the sea, from which are drawn its revenues, and over which pass 
the fleets which bring in provisions from tlic I'rovinces and States to the 
S. W. The manufactures of St. John's arc insignificant, and consist, for 
the most part, of biscuit-bakeries and oil-refineries (on the opposite side 
of the harbor). An immense business is done by the mercantile houses 
on Water St. in furnishing supplies to the outports (a term applied to all 
the other ports of Newfoundland except St. John's); and one firm alone 
has a trade amounting to $12,000,000 a year. For about one month, 
during the busy season, the streets are absolutely crowded with the people 
from the N. and W. coasts, selling their fish and oil, and laying in pro- 
visions and other supplies for the ensuing year. The commercial interests 
are served by tlircc banks and a chamber of commerce; and the literary 
standard of society is maintained by the St.' John's Athenaeum and the 
Catholic Institute. The city is supplied Avith gas, and water is brought 
in from a lake 4^ M. distant, by works which cost $ 300,000. 

" In trying to describe St. John's, there is some didlculty in applying fi" adjeo- 
tive to it sufficiently distinctive and appropriate. We find other cities coupled with 
words which at once f^ive their predominant characteristic; London the richest, 
Piu-is the gayest, St. Pctersburf; the coldest. In one respect the (diief town of New- 
foundland lijis, 1 beli(!ve, no rival ; we may, therefore, call it the fishiest of modern 
capitnls. Round a Rreat part of the ha.rbor are sheds, acres in extent, roofed with 
cod split in half, laid on like slates, drying in the sun, or rather the air, for there la 



ST. JOHN'S. Route 52. 191 

not much of the former to depend upon The town is ii-regular and dirty, built 

chiefly of wood, the dampness of the chmato rendering stone unsuitable." (Eliot 

WARBirRTON.) 

The harbor is small, but deep, and is so thoroughly landlocked that the 
water is always smooth. Here ma}' genei-ally be seen two or three British 
and French frigates, and at the close of the season these narrow waters are 
well filled with the vessels of the fishing-fleets and the powerful sealing- 
steamers. Along the shores are the fish-stages, where immense quantities 
of cod, herring, and salmon are cured and made ready for exportation. 
On the S. shore are several wharves right under the clifiTs, and also a float- 
ing dock Avhich takes up vessels of 800 tons' burden. The entrance to the 
harbor is called the * Narrows, and is a stupendous cleft in the massive 
ridge which .lines the coast. It is about 1,800 ft. long, and at its narrow- 
est point is but 660 ft. wide. On either side rise precipitous walls of sand- 
stone and conglomerate, of which Signal Hill (on the N. side) reaches an 
altitude of 520 ft, and the southern ridge is nearly 700 ft. high. Vessels 
coming m from the ocean are unable to see the Narrows until close upon 
it, and steer for the lofty block-house on Signal Hill. The points at the 
entrance were formerly well fortified, and during war-time the harbor was 
closed by a chain drawn aci-oss the Narrows, but the batteries are now in 
a neglected condition, and are nearly disarmed. 

The city occupies the rugged hill on the N. of the harbor, and is built 
on three parallel streets, connected by steep side-streets. The houses are 
mostly low and uiipainted wooden buildings, crowding out on the side- 
walks, and the general appearance is that of poverty and thriftlessness. 
Even the wealthy merchants generally occupy houses far beneath their 
station, since they seem to regard Newfoundland as a place to get for- 
tunes in and then retire to England to make their homes. This prin- 
ciple was universally acted on in former years, but latterly pleasant villas 
are being erected in the suburbs, and a worthier architectural appearance 
is desired and expected for the ancient capital. Water Street is the main 
business thoroughfare, and follows the cin-vesof the harbor- shoi'e for about 
Iji M. Its lower side is occupied by the great mercantile houses which 
supply " fish-and-fog-land " with provisions, clothing, and household I'e- 
quirements; and the upper side is lined with an alternation of cheap shops 
and liquor-saloons. In the N. part is the Custom House, and near the cen- 
tre is the spacious building of the Markct-llall and the Post-Odice. To the 
S., Water Street connects with the causeway and bridge of boats which 
crosses the head of the harbor. Admonislicd by several disastrous fires, 
the city has caused Water St. to be built upon in a substantial manner, 
and the stores, though very plain, are solidly and massively constructed. 

The Anglican Cathedral stands about midway up the hill, over the 
old burying-ground. It was planned by Sir Gilbert Scott, the most emi- 
nent British architect of the present era, and is in the early English Gothic 



192 Route 52. ST. JOHN'S. 

architecture. Owing to the inability of the Church to raise sufficient funds 
(for the missions at the outports demand all her revenues), the cathedral 
is but partly finished, but since 1880 much -work has been done upon it, 
largely by tishermen volunteers. The lofty proportions of the interior 
and the fine Gotliic colonnades of stone between the nave and aisles, 
together with the high lancet-windows, form a pleasant picture. 

The * Eoman Catholic Cathedral is the most stately building in New- 
foundland, and occupies the crest of the ridge, commanding a noble * view 
over the city and harbor and adjacent country, and looking through the 
Narrows on to the open sea. The prospect from the cathedral ten-ace on 
a moonlight night or at the time of a clear sunrise or sunset is especially 
to be commended. In the front part of the grounds is a colossal statue of 
St. Peter, and other large statues are seen near the building. The cathe- 
dral is an immense stone structure, with twin towers on the front, and is 
surrounded with a long internal corridor, or cloister. There are no aisles, 
but the whole building is thrown into a broad nave, from which the tran- 
septs diverge to N. and S. The stone of which it is constructed was 
brought from Conception Bay and from Dunleary, Ireland, and the walls 
were raised by the free and voluntary labors of the people. Clustered 
about the cathedral are the Bishoj/s Palace, the convent and its schools, 
and St. Bonaventure's College (5 professors), where the missionaries are 
disciplined and the Catholic youth are taught in the higher branches of 
learning. 

Catholicism was founded on the island by Sir George Calvert (see Route 54) and 
by the Bi.shop of Quebec ; suffered persecution from 17G2 to 1784, when all priests 
were banished (though some returned in disguise) ; and afterwards gained the chief 
power as a consequence of Irish immigration, upon which the bishops became arro- 
gant and autocratic, and the Province was, practically, governed from Cathedral 
Hill. The great pile of religious buildings then erected on this commanding height 
cost over §500,000, and the present revenues of the diocese are princely in amount, 
being collected by the priests, who board the arriving fishing- vessels and assess their 
people. The Irish Cathohcs form a great majority of the citizens of St. John's. 

Near the cathedral are the old barracks of the Royal Newfoundland 
Companies and the garrisons from the British army. The Military Road 
runs along the crest of the heights, and affords pleasant views over the 
harbor. On this road is the Colonial Building, a substantial structure 
of gray stone, well retired from the carriage-way, and adorned with a 
massive portico of Doric columns upholding a pediment which is occupied 
by the Royal Arms of Great Britain and Ireland. The colonial legislature 
meets in this building, and occupies plain but comfortable halls. The 
Government House is N. of the Colonial Building, and is the official man- 
sion of the governor of the Province (Sir Henry Fitzhardinge Berkeley 
Maxse, K. C M. G.)- It was built in 1828-30, and cost 3 240,000. The 
sun'ounding grounds are pleasantly diversified with groves, flower-beds, 
and walks, and are much visited by the aristocracy of St. John's, during 
the short but brilliant summer season. 



ST. JOHN'S. Route 52. 193 

Passing out through the poor suburb called " I\Iaggotty Cove," a walk 
of about 20 minutes leads to the top of * Signal Hill. 

" High above, oa our r. , a ruined monolith, on a mountain-peak (Ci'ow's Nest), 
marks the site oif an old battery, while to the 1., sunk in a hollow, a black bog lies 
sheltered amid the bare bent's of mother earth, liere mainly comjiosed of dark red 
sandstones and conglomerate, passing down by regular gradations to the slate below. 
A sudden turn of the road reveals a deep solitary tarn, some 330 ft. above the sea, 
in which the guardian rocks retlect their purple fices, and whei'e the ripple of the 
muskrat, hurrying across, alone disturbs the placid surface. We pass a hideous- 
looking barrack, and, crossing the soft velvety sward on the crest, reach a little bat- 
tery, from the parapets of which we look down, down, almost 500 ft. perpendicu- 
larly, right into ' the Narrows,' the strait or creek between the hills connecting the 
broad Atlantic with the oval harbor within. The great south-side hills, covered 
with luxuriant wild vegetation, and skeined with twisting torrents, loom across the 
strait so close that one might fancy it almost possible a stone could fly from the 
hand to the opposite shore. On our left the vast ocean, with nothing — not a rock 
— between us and Galway ; on our right, at the other end of the narrow neck of 
water directly beneath, the inner basin, expanding towai'ds the city, with t le back- 
ground of blue hills as a setting to the picture, broken only in their continuous out- 
line by the twin towers of the Catholic cathedral, ever thus from all points perform- 
ing their mission of conspicuit};. Right below ns, 400 ft. pei-pendicular, we lean 
over the grass porapct and look carefully down into the little battery guarding the 
narrowest part of the entering-strait, where, in the old wars, heav\' chains stretched 

from shore to shore The Narrows are full of fishing-boats returning with the 

silver spoils of the day glistening in the hold of the smacks, which, to the number 
of forty or fifty at a time, tack and fill like a fleet of white swans against the western 
evening breeze. Even as we look down on the decks, they come, and still they come, 
round the bluff point of Fort Amherst, from the bay outside." (Lt.-CoL. McCrea.) 

"After dinner we set off for Signal Hill, the grand observatory of the country, 

both by nature and art Little rills rattled by ; paths wound among rocky 

notches and grassj' chasms, and led out to dizzy ' over-looks ' and ' short-offs.' The 
town with its thousand smokes sat in a kind of amphitheatre, and seemed to enjoy 

the spectacle of sails a d colors in the harbor We struck into a fine military 

road, and passed spacious stone barracks, soldiers and soldiers' families, goats and 
little gardens. From the observatory, situated on the craggv peninsula, both the 
rugged interior and the expanse of ocean were before us." (Noble.) 



" Britones et Normani anno n Christo nalo MCCCCCIIII. has terras invenere " ; 
and in August, 1527, 14 sail of Norman, Breton, and Portuguese vessels were shel- 
tered in the harbor of St. John's. In 1542 the Sicur de Roberval, Viceroy of New 
France, entered here with 3 ships and 200 colonists bound for Quebec. He found 17 
, vessels at anchor in the harbor, and soon afterward there arrived Jacques Cartier 
and the Quebec colonists, discoui-aged, and returning to France. Roberval ordered 
him back, but he stole out of the harbor during the darkness of night and returned 
to France. A few years later the harbor was visited by the exploring ship Mari/ of 
Guilford, and the reverend Canon of St Paul, who had undertaken the unpriestly 
function of a discoverer, sent hence a chronicle of the voyage to Cardinal \Vol.><ey. 

In August, 1583, Sir Humphrey Gilbert (see page 135) entered the harbor of St. 
John's, with a tteet consisting of the D, light, Golden Hind, Sioalhnv, and Squirrel. 
He took formal possession of the port and of the island of Newfoundland, receiving 
the obedience of 3(3 ship-masters then in the harbor. But the adventurous mari- 
ners were di<contenteil with the rudeness of the country, and the learned Parme- 
nius wrote back to Hakluyt : " M}' good Hakluyt, of the manner of this country 
what shall I say, when I see nothing but a very wildernesse." In view of the date 
of Gilbert's occupation, Newfoundland claims the proud distinction of being the 
most ancient colony of the British Empire. In 1584 St. John's was vi>ited by the 
fleet of Sir Francis Drake, which had swept the adjacent seas and left a hue of burn- 
ing wrecks behind. 

in 1696 the town was so strongly gu.arded that it easily repulsed the Chevalier 
Nesmond, who attacked it with ten French men-of-war. The expedition of the 
daring Iberville was more successful, aud occupied the place. In November, 1704, 

9 M 



194 Route 52. ST. JOHN'S. 

a fleet from Quel)ec landed a French and Indian force' at Placentia, whence they 
advanced about the middle of January. They were about 400 strong, and crossed 
the Peninsula of Avalon on snow-shoes. The town of Bay Bulls (Beboulle) surren- 
dered on their approach, and a long and painful midwinter march ensued, over the 
mountains and through the deep snows. The French militia of Placentia were sent 
in at dawn to surprise the fort at St. John's, but could not enter the works for lack 
of scaling-ladders ; so they contented themselTes with occupying the town and 
Quiddy Viddy. The fort was now besieged for 33 days, in a season of intense cold, 
when even the harbor was frozen over ; but the English held out valiantly, and 
showered balls and bombs upon the town, finally succeeding in dislodging the en- 
emy and putting them in full retreat. 

In June, 1762, the Count d'Hausonville entered the Bay Bulls with a powerful 
French fleet, consisting of the Robuste, 74; VBveille, 64; La Garonne, 44; and 
La Liconie, 30. He escorted several transports, whence 1,500 soldiers were landed. 
This force marched on St. John's, which surrendei-ed on summons, together with 
the English frigate Grammont. Lord Colville's fleet hastened up from Halifax and 
blockaded Admiral De Ternay in the harbor of St. John, while land forces were de- 
barked at Torbay and Quiddy Viddy. The last-named detachment (Royal Ameri- 
cans and Highlanders) proceeded to storm the works on Signal Hill, but the French 
fought desperately, and held them at bay until the English forces from Torbay came 
in and succeeded in carrying the entire line of heights. In the mean time, a dense 
fog had settled over the coast, under whose protection De Ternay led his squadron 
through the British line of blockade, and gained the open sea. In 1796 a formidable 
French fleet, under Admiral Richery (consisting of 7 line-of-battle ships and several 
frigates), menaced St. John's, then commanded by Admiral Sir James Wallace. 
Strong batteries were erected along the Narrows ; fire-ships were drawn up in the 
harbor; a chain was stretched across the entrance; and the entire body of the 
people was called under arms. The hostile fleet blockaded the port for many days, 
but was kept at bay by the batteries on Signal Hill ; and after an ineffectual attempt 
at attack, sailed away to the S. Feb. 12, 1816, a disastrous fire occurred at St. 
John's, by which 1,500 persons were left homeless ; and great suffering would have 
ensued had it not been for the citizens of Boston, who despatched a ship loaded with 
provisions and clothing for gratuitous distribution among the impoverished people. 
Nov. 7, 1817, another terrible fire occurred here, by which $2,000,000 worth of 
property was destroyed; and this was followed, within 2 weeks, by a third dis- 
astrous conflagration. This succession of calamities came near resulting in the 
abandonment of the colony, and the people were goaded by hunger to a succession 
of deeds of crime and to organized violations of the laws. In 1825 the first highway 
was built (from St. John's to Portugal Cove) ; in 1833 the first session of the Colonial 
Parliament was held ; and the first steamship in the Newfoundland waters arrived 
here in 1840. 

In 1860 the city was convulsed by a terrible riot, arising from politico-religious 
causes, and threatening wide ruin. An immense mob of armed Irishmen attacked 
and pillaged the stores on Water St., and filled the lower town with rapine and rob- 
bery. The ancient organization called the Royal Newfoundland Companies was 
ordered out and posted near the Market House, where the troops suffered for hours 
the gibes of the plunderers, until they were fired upon in the twilight, when 
they returned a point-blank volley, which caused a sad carnage in the insurgent 
crowd. Then the great Cathedral bells rang out wildly, and summoned all the 
rioters to that building, where the Bishop exhorted them to peace and forbearance, 
under pain of excommunication. After a remarkable interview, the next day, be- 
tween the Bishop and Gov. Sir Alexander Bannerman, this tragical revolt was 
ended. 

In 1870 St. John's had 21 sailing-vessels and 6 steamers engaged in the sealing 
business, and their crews amounted to 1584 men. In 1809 (the latest accessible 
statistics) 688 vessels, with a tonnage of 109,043 tons, and employing 5,466 men, en- 
tered this port ; and in the same year there were cleared hence 577 vessels, with 
4,937 men. 

The new railroad, the first to be built in Newfoundland, now runs from St 
John's to Holyrood, 65 M., and to Harbor Grace. It is being built by a New-York 
company, and will be extended as rapidly as possible to the copper-mines at Hall's 
Bay, 340 M. distant, opening up a valuable mining and farming country. It will 
cost !g 3,000,000, and the company receives a subsidy of ^185,000 a year for 35 
years, and a land-grant of 1,700,000 acres. 



PORTUGAL COVE. Route 53. 195 



53. The Environs of St. John's. 

" On either side of the city of St. John's, stretching in a semicircle along the rug- 
ged coast, at an average radius fi'oni the centre of 7 or 8 M., a number of little fish- 
ing-coves or bays attract, during the sweet and enjoyable summer, all persons who 
can command the use of a horse to revel in their beauties. Each little bay is but a 
slice of the high cliffs scooped out by the friction of the mighty pressure of the At- 
lantic waves ; and leading down to its shingled beach, each boasts of a lovely green 
valley through which infallibly a tumbling noisy trout-burn pours back the waters 
evaporated from the parent surface." (Lt.-Col. McCrea.) 

The country about the capital is not naturally productive, but has been made to 
bring forth fruit and vegetables by careful labor, and now supports a considerable 
farming population. The road.s are fine, being for the most part macadamized and 
free from mud. 3 M. beyond the city is the Lunatic Asylum, pleasantly situated in 
a small forest. 

Quiddy-Viddy Lake is frequently visited by the people of St, John's. 
The favorite drive is to Portugal Cove, over a road that has been de- 
scribed as possessing a " sad and desolate beauty." This road passes the 
Windsor Lake, or Twent^'-Mile Pond, " a large picturesque sheet of water, 
with some pretty, lonely-looking islands." The inn at Portugal Cove 
looks out on a handsome cascade, and is a favorite goal for wedding-tours 
from St. John's. Barges run from St. John's to Topsail. 

" The scenery about Portugal Cove well repays the ride of nearly 10 M. on a good 
road from St. John's. It is wildly romantic, and just before entering the village i.s 
very beautiful. A succession of lofty hills on each side tower over the road, and. 
shut out everything but their conical or mammillated peaks, covered with wild 
stunted forest and bold masses of rock, breaking through with a tiny waterfall from 
the highest, which in winter hangs down in perpendicular ridges of yellow ice. 
Turning suddenly out of one of the wildest scenes, you cross a little bridge, and the 
romantic scattered village is hanging over the abrupt rocky shore, with its fish-flakes 
and busy little anchorage open to the sight, closed in the distance by the shores of 
Conception Bay, lofty and blue, part of which are concealed by the picturesque Belle 
Isle." (Sir R. Bonnyc.\stl3.) 

" On approaching Portugal Cove, the eye is struck by the serrated and picturesque 
outline of the hills which run along the coast from it towards Cape St. Francis, 
and presently delighted with the wild beauty of the little valley or glen at the moutti 
of which the cove is situated. The road winds with several turns down the side of 
the valley, into which some small brooks hurry their waters, flashing in the sun- 
shine as they leap over the rocks and down the ledges, through the dark green of 
the woods. On turning the shoulder of one of the hill-slopes, the view opens upon 
Conception Bay, with the rocky points of the cove immediately below." (Prop. 
JuKi;s.) 

Another favorite excursion is to Virginia Water, the former summer 
residence of the governors of Newfoundland. It is reached by way of 
the King's Bridge and the pretty little Quiddy-Viddy Lake, beyond which 
the Ballyhaly Bog is crossed, and the carriage reaches the secluded domain 
of Vlrghiia Water. It is situated on a beautiful lake of deep water, 3 M. 
in circumfei^nce, " indented Avith little gras.s-edged bays, fringed and 
feathered to the limpid edge with dark dense woods." Beyond this point 
the drive may be protracted to Logie Bay, a small cove between projecting 
cliffs, with bold and striking shore scenery. Logie Bay is 4 M., and Tor- 
bay is 8-9 M. from St. John's, by a fine road which crosses the high and 
mossy barrens, and affords broad sea-views from the cliffs. The country 
is thinly settled, and is crossed by several trout-brooks. 



196 Route SI TORBAY. 

Lojrie Bay is remarkable fbr the ■wikiness of its rock and cliff scenery. " Nothing 
like a lH\noli is to bt» tVn\nil anvwhtnv ou this ccvnst, the desi-ont to the son being 
always ditliouU aiul cvnontlly iiwprai-ticablo. lu l.oirio Uay tlio thii'k-bt\ldod dark 
Sjmdstoiu's aud ci'uglonieratos stand bold and baiv in i\nnid-topiH-d hills and pivci- 
piics o-4lX^ ft. in hdjiht, with occasional lissnws tnivoi-sinjr thoir jaggvd clitic, 
aud the boiing waves of the Atlantic onrlinir annnul their ftvt in white eddies or 
leaping a^unst their sides with hui;v sponts of tlvun and spiivy ," (PuoF. JiKKS.) 

''"lorU-ty is an arm of the sea. — a short, stronsr ann with a sUn\ hand and finger, 
rt\iching into the vvx*ky laud and touching the waterfalls and rapids of a pivtty 
brook llert^ is a little villagv, with Uoniish and l*i><testant steeples, and the dwvU- 
iugs of tisheruien, with the luiivei-sal appendagvs of tishing-houses, bivus. and tlakes. 
One seldom looks upon a hamlet so pictuivsque and wild." On the N. slu^iv of the 
bay is a long line of e litis, 8-400 ft. high, surf-besiteu and n.ajestie. and finely 
ot'ServtHl by taking a boat out fronv Torbay and civxslir.g to the N " At one point, 
wheiv the ixx-ks iiYixle fivm the main trout and forn\ a kind of headland, the strata, 
G-S ft. thick, assume the form of a pyianiid, fivn\ a briwd base of a hnndivd yards 
or nunv running up to meet in a point. The heart of this vast eave has i^artly 
fallen out, and left the i\\>;emblauce of an enormous tent with cavenunis nvesses 
and halls, in which the shades of eveuing weiv ahvady lurking, and the surf was 
sounding mourntuUy. OccaMonally it was uin.<ical, pealing forth like the low tones 
of a givat organ with awful soUnnuity. Kow and then, the gloomy silence of a min- 
xito was bivketi by the crash of a billow far within, when "the rvverlerations vrer« 
like the slauuiung of git\it dv.xn-s." 

*' After ^visj^iug this grand sj^Hvimen of the aivbiteeture of the sea, thew appeared 
long iiH-ky rvaches, like Kgvptian temples, old dead clitYs of yellowish gray cht>i'ked 
off hy lines and st\uus into squares, and having the resemblance, wheiv they have 
fallen out into the ocean, of dooi-s and windows oiH'uiug in upon the fivsher stone." 

54 The Strait Shore of Avalon. — St John's to Cape Eace. 

That portion of tho reuinsnla of Avalon which fwnts to the eastwai-d on the 
Atlantic has Uvu teruHH.1 the -SfnjfV Shcrc, on account of its generally undeviating 
lino of direetion. Its outports nay be visited either by the tYiday mail-con- 
veyance, tluvugh Petty llavbor, l>ay Bulls, ferrylaud, aud Renewse, or by the 
"Western t\\astal steauver (,see Boute tV). 



l^isitancosi l>v Koacl. — St. John's to Blackhead. 4 M. ; Pettv llaibor, 10; 
Bay lUiUs, 10; \VicU\*s Bay. ::2 ; Mobile, 24; T.vul Cove, -0; l.a Manche, S3; 
Srigus, o4 ; Capi> Bi\\vle, S^; Capliu Cove, 42; i'exTylaud, 4-4 ; Aviujifort, 4S; ler- 
neuse, 51 ; Keuexvs©, 64 > Cape Kace, i^. 

" The iwad, one of the finest 1 ever s;\w, — an old-fa,<hioned English gnwel-rv^ad, 
smooth and harvl almi^t as ii\n>, a very luxury for the whtvls of a springless w■agv^n, 
— ket^ps up the bed of a small river, a gvx^d-siieti trvnit-strtwm, tiowing from the in- 
land valley iuto the harbor of J^t John's. Contrasted with the bold regions that 
fivnt the (.xvan, the^e valleys ai-e sot> and fertile. "We ^vtssed sn;ooth n-eadows, and 
sloping plough-lands, aud given pxstures, and hou-^es? jHvping out of pivtty groves. 
One might have calUxl it a Canadian or ^lew-Hampshiiv vale.' ' The n^ul [v».-v-es 
several Ivkelets and tivnt-streams, and gives tine views of the o<ean on the 1 , being 
also one of the most smooth aud firmly built of highways. " No nation makes such 
rojids as these, in a land bristling with rug-gvd diliicuUies, that luis not wound its 
way up to the smnmit of p«.>wor and cultivation." The hills along the coast closely 
rt\semble the Corvlillera j^^aks; aud tnmi the bald summits ou the \\"., Trinity Bay 
may be setn. 

The mail-rv^ad running S. Ironi St. John's passe? WjiterfQj^.1 Bridge and 
soon approaches Blackheady a Catholic village near an iron-bound shore 
whose great cliffs have been worn into fantastic shapes by the crash and 
attrition of the Atlantic surges. Kear this place is Cape Spear, the most 
easterly point of Xorth America, 1,656 M. fix>m Valentia Bay, in Ireland. 
On the summit of the cape, 264 ft. above the sea, is a red-and-white striped 
tower sustaining a revolving light which is visible for 23 M. 



BAY BULLS. Route 5/^. 197 

The road now passes between " woody banks running through an un- 
dulating country but half reclaimed on the r., while on the 1. (ho slopes 
stretch up to the breezy headland^ beyond whicli there is nothino- but sea 
and cloud (roni tins to Europe." PrV/y Ilarhov is 4 M. S. w' of Cano 
Spear and 10 M. from S.t. John's, and is a village of 900 inhabitants, with 
a refinery of cod-hver oil and long lines of evergreen fish-flakes. OIT this 
ponit H B. M. frigate Ta^ci'd was wrecked in 1C14, and GO men were 
drowned. The houses of Petty Harbor are situated in a narrow gini at 
the foot of frowning and barren ridges. The harbor at the f >ot of thii 
KUMne .s small and insecure. The dark hills to the W. attain a height of 
m It. along the unbroken shore wliich leads S. to Bay Bulls- and at 
about 4 M. from Petty Harbor is the "* Spout, a deep cavern in the sea- 
ward chlls, m whoso top is a hole, through which, at high tide and in a 
heavy sea, the water shoots up every half-minuto in a roaring fountain 
which IS seen 3 M. off at sea. The road now approaches lonclay Hill (810 
tt. h.gh), the chief elevation on this coast, and reaches Bay BuHs, a villaoQ 
of 700 mhabitants. This is one of the most important of the outports, and 
afiords a refuge to vessels that are unable, on account of storms or ice, to 
make the harbor of St. John's. There are several farms near the bav, Lut 
most of he inhabitants are engaged m the cod-flshery, which is ciuTied 
on from arge open boats. This ancient settlement was exposed to great 
vicissitudes during the conflicts between tho French and the En o-]ish for 
the possession of Newfoundland, and was totally destroyed bv Admiral 
R.ehery ( rench) in 1796. Fine sporting is found in this vicinit;, all alon. 
shore, ami shooting-parties leave St. John's during the seasonVor several 
days' adventure hereabouts. 

chased it into IJ.vv Ihills. A naval l, ittlo of I, !. Sapphne. oil Cai,<, R,,,.;,,., n.i,l 

the eonipleto cli.comliture ot^ e I Hti u ho 'oTr'^ ^'^I"' •'"^'■'^'"" ^^'"^^ '■'"^'■<l ^^>' 
abandoned ho.-. The I'ron -h sai ors n'. o , ^'™ ^"^ ^i^-" shattered t^apphne and 
by the explosion of the ma"4zine ''"' ^""'"^^lately, but were destroyed 

WUhss Bay is the next village, and has nearly 1,000 inhabitants, with a 
large and prominent Catholic church. Cod-fishing is carried on to a great 
extent off this shore, also off Mobile, the next settlement to the S. Bejond 
the rock-bound hamlets of Toad Cove, La Manche, and Brigus, the road 
reaches Cape Broyle. 

to sea as fast as hey coS 5 '' S Ivert' inen7.^^^^^^ .^I'P then- cables, a,nd n.ado 

Co/pc 5ro2/?e is a prosperous fishing-settlement on Brovle Harbor near 

he mountainous he.ulland of Cape Broyle (552 ft high); There is' go^d 

salmon-fishnigon the river which runs S. E. to the harbor from the foot 



198 Route 51 FERRYLAND. 

. Ferryland is 2 M. beyond the Caplin-Cove settlement, and is the capi- 
tal of the district of Ferryland. It has about 700 inhabitants, and is M^ell 
located on level ground near the head of the harbor. In the immediate 
vicinity are several prosperous farms, and picturesque scenery surrounds 
the harbor on all sides. To the S. E. is Ferryland Head, on which is a 
fixed white light, 200 ft. above the sea, and visible for 16 M. Off this point 
are the slender spires of rock called the Hare's Ears, projecting from the 
sea to the height of 50 ft. 

In IGl-i (1G1I2) KiuR James I. granted the great peninsula between Trinity and 
Placentia Lays to Sir (ieorge Calvert, then Secretary of State. The grantee named 
bis nc.v domain Avalcn, in honor of the di.strict where Cliristian tradition claims 
that the Gospel was flr&t preached in Britain (the present Glastonbury). It vas de- 
signed to found here a Christian colony, with the broadest principles of toleration 
and charity. Calvert sent out a considerable company of . settlers, under the govern- 
ment of Capt. NV'ynne, and a colony was planted at J'erryland- The reports sent 
back to England concerning the soil and productions of the new country Mere so 
favorable that Sir George Calvert and his family soon joined the colonists. Under 
his administration an equitable government was established, fortifications were 
erected, and other improvements instituted. Lord Baitim< re had but little pleasure 
of his .settlement in Avalon. He found that he had been greatly deceived about the 
climate and the nature of the soil. The Puritans also began to harass him ; atid 
Erasmus Stourton, one of their ministers, not only preached dissent under his eyes 
at Ferryland, but went to England and reported to the Privy Council that Balti- 
more's priests f-aid mass and had "all the other ceremonies of the Church of Rome, 
in the ample manner as 'ti.s used in Spain." Finally, after trials by storm and by 
Bchismatics, Lord Baltimore died (in 1(:32), leaving to his son Cecil, 2d Lord Balti- 
more, the honor of founding Maryland, on the grant already secured from the king. 
In that more favored southern clin.e afterwards arose the great city which com- 
memorates and honors the name of Baltimore. 

In 1G.37 Sir David Kirke was appointed Count Palatine of Newfoundland, and estab- 
lished liimself at Ferryland. lie hoisted the royal standard on the forts, and main- 
tained a sirong (and .'ometimes har.'^h) rule over the island. At the outbreak of the 
English Pievolution (1G42), Kirke-s brothers joined King Charles's forces and fought 
bravely through the war, while Sir David strengthened his Newfoundland forts and 
established a powerful and Avell-armcd fleet. He offered the King a safe asylum in 
his domain ; and the fiery Prince Rupert, with the royal Channel fleet, was sailing 
to Newfoundland to join Kirke's forces, when he was headed off by the fleet of the 
Commonwealth, under Sir George Ayscue. After the fall of the Stuarts, Sir David 
was carried to England in a vessel of the Republic (in 1651), to be tried on various 
charges ; but he bribed Cromwell's son in-law, and was released, returning to Ferr}'- 
land, where he died in 1656, after haying governed the island f<'r over 20 years. At 
a later day this town became a port of some importance, and was the scene of re- 
peated naval attacks during the French wars. In 1673 it was taken and plundered 
by 4 Dutch frigates. 

In 1694 Ferryland was attacked by 2 large French frigates, carrying 90 guns, 
which opened a furious cannonade on the town. But the tVilliam and Mary, 16, 
•was lying in the harbor, with 9 merchant-ships, and their crews built batteries at 
the harbor-mouth, whence, with the guns of the privateer, they inflicted such dam- 
age on the enemy that they withdrew, after a 5 hours' cannonade, having lost 
about 90 men. In 1762 the powerful French fleet of Admiral de Ternay was driven 
off by a battery on Bois Island. 

Aquafort lies S. W. of Ferryland, and is a small hamlet situated on a 
long, deep, and narrow harbor embosomed in lofty hills. The next settle- 
ment is Fej'mewse, with 600 inhabitants and a Catholic church and convent. 
It is on the shore of Admiral's Cove, in the deep and secure harbor of 
Fermeuse, and the people are engaged in the cod and salmon fisheries. 
Renewse is an ancient and decadent port 16 M. S. of Ferryland, situated on 



CAPE EACE. Route 54. 199 

an indifferent harbor which lies between Burnt Point and Renewse Head. 
3-4 M. inland are the rugged hummocks called the Red Hills, whence 
the eastern hill range runs 30 M. N. across Avalon to Holyrood. 

6-8 M. from Renewse are the tall and shaggy hills called the Butterpots, 
■which command broad views over Avalon, and from Bay Bulls to the W. shore of 
Trepassey Bay. The Butterpots of Holyrood are also seen from ttiis point ; and Prof. 
Jukes counted 80 lakes in sight from the main peak (which is 955 ft. high). 

S. of this point extends a fatal iron-bound coast, on which scores of vessels, veiled 
in impenetrable fog or swept inward by resistless storms, have been dashed in pieces. 
A very slight error in reckoning will throw vessels bound S. of Cape Race upon this 
shore, and then, if the Cape Race and Ferry land lights are wrapped in the dense 
black fog peculiar to these waters, the chances of disaster are great. The erection 
of a fog-whistle on the cape has greatly lessened the perils of navigation here. The 
ocean steamships ^n^^o-Sozo^, Argo, and City of Fhiladelphia were lost on Cape 
Race. 

Cape Race is the S. E. point of Newfoundland, and is a rugged head- 
land of black slaty rock thrown up in vertical strata. It is provided with 
a powerful light, 180 ft. above the sea, and visible for 19 M. The great 
polar current sweeps in close by the cape and turns around it to the 
W.«N. W., forming, together with the ordinary tides and the bay-currents, 
a complexity of streams that causes many Avrecks. 

Icebergs are to be seen off this shore at almost all seasons, and the dense fogs are 
often illumined by the peculiar white glare which precedes them. Field-ice is also 
common here during the spring and early summer, but is easily avoided by the 
•warning of the "ice blink." Throughout the summer and autumn the fog broods 
over this shore almost incessantly, and vessels are navigated by casting the lead and 
following the soundings which are marked out with such precision on the Admi- 
ralty charts. 6 M. E. of Cape Race is the Ballard Bank, which is 18 M. long and 
2-12 M. wide, with a depth of water of 15 - 26 fathoms. 

Cape Race is distant, by great-circle sailing, from New York, 1,010 M. ; Boston, 
820; Portland, 779 ; St. John, N. B., 715; Halifax, 463; Miramichi, 492; Quebec, 
836; Cape Clear, 1,713 ; Galway, 1,721 ; Liverpool, 1,970. 

The Grand Banks of Newfoundland are about 50 M. E. of Cape Race. 
They extend for 4 degrees N. and S. and 5 degrees E. and W. (at 45° N. 
latitude) running S. to a point. They consist of vast submerged sand- 
banks, on which the water is from 30 to 60 fathoms deep, and are strewn 
with shells. Here are found innumerable codfish, generally occupying 
the shallower waters over the sandy bottoms, and feeding on the shoals of 
smaller fish below. They pass out into the deeper waters late in Novem- 
ber, but return to the Banks in February, and fatten rapidh'. Immense 
fleets are engaged in the fisheries here, and it is estimated that over 
100,000 men are dependent on this industry. 

Throughout a great part of the spring, summer, and fall, the Grand Banks are 
covered by rarely broken fo^s, through which falls an almost incessant slow rain. 
Sometimes these fogs are so dense that objects within 60 ft. are totally invisible, at 
which times the fishing-vessels at anchor are liable to be run down by the great 
Atlantic steamers. The dangerous proximity of icebergs (which drift across and 
ground on the Banks) is indicated by the sudden and intense coldness which they 
send through even a midsummer day, by the peculiar white glare in the air about 
them, and by the roaring of the breakers on their sides. 

It was on the Grand Banks, not far from Cape Race, that the first battle of the 
Seven Years' War was fought. June 8, 1755, the British 60-gun frigates Dunkirk 



200 Route 55. THE GKAND BANKS. 

and Defiance were cruising about in a dense fog, -when they met the French men-of- 
war Atr.ide. and Lys. For five hours the battle continued, and a continual can- 
nonade was kept up between the hostile ships. The French were overmatched, but 
fought valiantly, inflicting heavy losses on the assailants (the Dunkirk alone lost 90 
men). When they finally surrendered, the Lys was found to contain $400,000 in 
specie and 8 companies of infantry. 

The vicinity of Cape Race was for some time the cruising-ground of the U. S. 
frigate Constitution, in 1812, and in these waters she captured the Adiona, the Ade- 
line, and other vessels. 

Near the edge of the Grand Bank (in lat. 41° 41' N., long 55° 18' W.) occurred 
the famous sea-fight between the Constitution and the Guerriere, whose result filled 
the United States with rejoicing, and impaired the prestige of the British navy. On 
the afternoon of Aug. 19, 1812, the Constitution sighted the Guerriere, and bore 
down upon her with double-shotted batteries. The British ship was somewhat in- 
ferior in force, but attacked the American Avith the confidence of victory. The Con- 
stitution received several broadsides in silence, but when within half pistol-shot dis- 
charged her tremendous batteries, and followed with such a fire of deadly precision 
that the Guerriere was soon left a dismasted and shattered wreck. The British ship 
then surrendered, having lost 101 men in the action, while her antagonist lost but 
14. The Guerriere had 38 guns, and the Constitution had 44. 

Among the American privateers that cruised about the Grand Banks in 1812 - 14, 
none was more successful than the Mammoth, of Baltimore. She captured the 
ships Ann and Elizn, Urania, Anishy, Dobson, Sal/ust, Uniza, Sarah, Sir Home 
Fophani, Champion, Mentor, and many other rich prizes. 



" Far off by stormy Labrador — 

Far off' the Banks of Newfoundland, 
Where angry seas incessant roar, 

And logfry mists their wings expand, 
The fishinpf-schooners, black and low, 
For weary mouths sail to and I'ro." 

55. St. John's to Labrador. — The Northern Coast of New- 
foundland. 

The Northern mail-steamer leaves St. John's, N. F., every alternate Monday dur- 
ing the season of navigation, and visits the chief outportson theN. coast (so-called). 
The fares are as follows: St. John's to Bav-de-Verds, 10s., — steerage, 6 s.; to 
Trinity, 20s., — steerage, 10 s.; to Bonavista,27s. 6 d., — steerage. 14 s. ; to Green s- 
pond,"30s., — steerage, 15s.; to Fogo, 32 s. 6d.; to Twillingate, 358. ; to Exploits 
Island, 37 s. 6 d. ; to Tilt Cove, Bett's Cove, or Nipper's Harbor, 40 a. At its most 
northerly port the steamer meets the Hercules, the Labrador mail-steamer. 

The fare on the Labrador steamer is .'fi!2 a day, which includes both passage and 
meals. The northern boats are powerful and seaworthy, but the fare at their 
tables is necessarily of the plainest kind. The time which will lie required for the 
Labrador trip is nearly four weeks (from St. John's back to St. John's again). The 
expense is about SoO The journey should be begun before the middle of July, in 
order to avail of the short summer in these high latitudes. It would be prudent 
for gentlemen who desire to make this tour to write eirly in the season to the agents 
of the steamship lines, to assure themselves of due connections and to learn other 
particulars. Mr J. Taylor Wood is the agent at Halifax for the steamer from that 
port to St. John's : and Bowring Brothers, St. John's, N. F., are the agents for the 
Northern Coastal Line. 

Passing out between the stern and frowning portals of the harbor of St. 
John's, the steamer soon takes a northerly course, and opens the indenta- 
tion of Lorjie Bay on tlie W. (see page 196). After running by the tall 
cliffs of Sugar Loaf and Red Head (700 ft. high), Torhay is seen opening 
to the W., within which is the village of the same name. 



TRINITY. Route 55. 201 

About 8 Isl. beyond Torbay, the white shore of Cape St. Francis is seen 
on the port bow, and, if the water is rough, the great breakers may be 
seen whitening over the rocks which are called the Brandies. The course 
is now laid across the mouth of Conception Bay, which is seen extending 
to the S. W. for 30 M. 18 II. from Cape St. Francis, and about 40 M. from 
St. John's, the steamer passes between Bay Verd Head and Split Point, 
and stops of? Bay Verd, a village of about 600 inhabitants, situated on a 
broad and unsheltered bight of the sea. The fishing-grounds in this vicin- 
ity are among the best on the American coast, and attract large fleets of 
boats and schooners. The attention of the villagers is divided between 
farming and fishing, the latter industry being by far the most lucrative. 
Roads lead out from Bay Verd S. to Carbonear and Harbor Grace (see 
Eoute 56), and N. W. to the settlements on Trinity Bay. Soon after 
leaving Bay Verd, the steamer passes Baccalieu Island, a high and ridgy 
land 3^ j\I. long, and nearly 2 M. from the main. On its N. end is a pow- 
erful flashing light, elevated-380 ft. above the sea, and visible for 28 ]\1. 

Although Cabot was the first professional discoverer (if the term may be used) to 
visit and explore the shores of Newfoundland, there is no doubt that these waters 
had long been the resort of the fishing-fleets of the Normans, Bretons, and Basques. 
Lescarbot claims that they had fished off these shores "for many centuries," and 
Cabot applied the name "Baccalaos" to the country because "in the seas there- 
about he found so great multitudes of certain bigge fishes, much like unto Tunnies 
(which tlie inhabitants call Baccalaos)^ that they sometimes stayed his shippes." 
Baccalaos is the ancient Basque name for codfish, and its extensive use by the 
natives in plare of their own word Apege, meaning the same thing, is held as con- 
clusive proof that they had been much in communication with Basque fishermen 
before the arrival of Cabot. Cabot gave this name to the continent as far as he 
explored it, but in the map of 1640 it is apphed only to the islet which now re- 
tains it. 

On her alternate trips the vessel rounds in about Grates Point, and stops 
at Old Perlican {see Route 57). Otherwise, it runs across the mouth of 
Trinity Bay for about 20 M., on a N. W. course, and enters the harbor of 
Trinity, 115 M. from St. John's. The entrance is bold and imposing, and 
the harbor is one of the best on the island, affording a land-locked anchor- 
age for the largest fleets. It is divided into two arms by a high rocky 
peninsula (380 ft. high), on whose S. side are the wharves and houses of 
the town. Trinity has about 1,500 inhabitants, and is a port of entry and 
the capital of the district of Trinity. Considerable thinning is done in the 
coves near the head of the harbor. Roads lead out to the S. shore (see 
Route 57), and also to Salmon Cove, 5 M ; English Harbor, 7; Ragged 
Harbor, 16 ; and Catalina, 20. 

On leaving Trinitj'- Harbor, the course is S. E imtil Green Bay Head 
and the Horse Chops are passed, when it turns to the N. E., and runs along 
within sight of a high and cliffy shore. Beyond the Ragged Isles is seen 
Green Island, where there is a fixed white light, visible for 15 M., around 
which (through rough water if the wind is E.) the vessel passes, threading 
a labj'-rinth of shoals and rocks, and enters the harbor of Catalina, re- 
9* 



202 Route 55. BONAVISTA. 

markable for its sudden and frequent intermittent tides. The town of 
Catalina has 1,300 inhabitants, with 2 churches, of which that of the Epis- 
copahans is a fine piece of architecture, though built of wood. The main 
part of the settlement is on the W. side of the harbor, and has a consider- 
able maritime trade. The adjacent waters abound in salmon, and deli- 
cious edible whelks are found on the rocks. Besides the highway to 
Trinity (20 M.), a rugged road leads N. to Bonavista in 10 M. Catalina 
was visited in 1534 by Cartier, who named it St. Catherine. 

On leaving Catalina Harbor, North Head is passed, and after running 
N. E. by N. 3 M. Flowers Head is left on the port bow. About 2 M. be- 
yond, the Bird Islets are seen on the 1., near which is the fishing-settlement 
of Bird Island Cove (670 inhabitants), with its long and handsome beach. 
A short distance inland is seen the Burnt Ridge, a line of dark bleak hills 
rising to a height of 500 ft The Dollarman Bank, fiimous for codfish, is 
now crossed, and on the 1. is seen Cape Largent and Spiller Point, off which 
are the precipitous and tower-like * Spiller Bodes, surrounded by the sea. 
The steamer now passes Cape Bonavista, on which is a red-and- white 
fiashing-l'ght, 150 ft. above the sea, and visible for 15 M. 

The re-discovery of Newfoundland (after the Northmen's voyages 5 centuries be- 
fore) was effected ia June, 1497, by Cabot, a Venetian in the service of Henry 
VII. of England, sailing in the ship Matthew, of Bristol He gave the name of Bona 
Vista (" Fair View ■•), or Prima Vista (" First View "), to the first point of the coast 
■which he saw, and that name has since been attached to this northerly cape, since 
it is believed that this was the location of the new-found shore. (The reader of Bid- 
die's "Memoirs of Sebastian Cabot" will, however, be much puzzled to know what 
point, if any, Cabot actually saw on these coasts.) The rocks and shoals to the N. 
ax-e prolific in fish, and are visited by great flotillas of boats. 

After roianding the light, the steamer enters Bonavista Bay, a great 
bight of the sea extending between Capes Bonavista and Freels, a dis- 
tance of 37 M. About 4 M. S. W. of the cape, the steamer enters the har- 
bor of Bonavista, an ancient marine town with 2,600 inhabitants and 3 
churches. It is the capital of the district of the same name, and is also a 
port of entry, having a large and increasing commerce. The harbor is 
not secure, and during long N. W. gales the sea breaks heavily across the 
entrance. The Episcopal church is a fine building in English Gothic 
architecture, but the houses of the town are generally mean and small. 
Considerable farming is done on the comparatively fertile lands in the 
vicinity, and it is claimed that the climate is much more genial and the 
air more clear than on the S. shoi'es of the island. The town is 146 M. 
from St John's, and is 30 M. by road from Trinity and 10 M. from Catalina. 
It is one of the most ancient settlements on the coast, and signalized itself 
in 1696 by beating off the French fleet which had captured St. John's and 
ravaged the S. coasts. 



BONAVISTA BAY. Route 55. 203 

Bonavista Bay. 

A road leads S. W. from Bonavista to Birchy Cove, 9 M. ; Amherst Cove, 12; 
King's Cove, 20 ; Keels Cove, 26 ; Tickle Cove, 33 ; Open Hole, 36 ; Plate Cove, 38 ; 
and Indian Arm, 43. 

King''s Cove is a village of Labrador fishermen, with 550 inhabitants and 2 
churches. It is on a narrow harbor between the lofty cliffs of the coast range, 
through whose passes a road ruhs S. to Trinity in 13 M. 3 M. from King's Cove is 
Broad Cove village, under the shadow of the peak of Southern Head. Keels is 6 
M. from King's Cove, and does a considerable lumber business. Thence the road 
descends through Tickle Cove (2 M. from the picturesque Red Cliff Island) to the 
three villages ou the S., each of which has 2-300 inhabitants. To the W . are the 
deep estuaries of Sweet Harbor, Clode Sound (20 M. long), and Newman Sound (11 
M. long), penetrating the hill-country and exhibiting a succession of views of ro- 
mantic scenery and total desolation. Boats may be taken from Open Hole to Bar- 
roiv Harbor, a fishing settlement 10 M. N. W., at the mouth of Newman Sound, and 
to Salvage, 16 M distant, a village of 500 inhabitants. 6 M. N. W., beyond the Bay 
of Fair and False, is Bloody Bay, a deep and narrow inlet with picturesque forest 
scenerj', extending for several miles among the hills. The name was given on ac- 
count of the frequent conflicts which here ensued between the Red Indians and the 
fishermen. At the head of the bay is the Terra Nova River, descending from the 
Terra Nova Lake, which is 15 M. distant, and is 12 M. long. 

The N. shore of Bonavista Bay is visited most easily from the port of Greens- 
pond. The comm.unication is exclusively by boats, which may be engaged at the 
village. Nearly all the islands in the vicinity and for 10 M. to the S. W. and S. are 
occupied by small communities of hardy fishermen, and the shores of the main- 
land are indented with deep and narrow bays and sounds. To the N. are Pool's 
Island, 3 M. ; Pincher's Island, 9 ; Cobbler's Island, 10 ; and Middle Bill Cove (near 
Cape Freels), 15. To the S. and W. are the Fair Island, 7 M. ; Deer Island, 11; 
Cottel's Island (three settlements), 15 ; the Gooseberry Isles, 12 ; and Hare Bay, 23. 
The last-named place is at the entrance of Freshivater Bay, which runs in for about 
15 M., with deep water and bold shores. The great northern mail-road is being 
built along the head of this bay ; a short distance from which (by the river) are the 
Gainbo Fonds, large lakes in the desolate interior, 23 M. long, abounding in fish. 
One of the best salmon-fisheries on the island is at the head of Indian Bay, 12 M. 
W. of Greenspond. 



On leaving Bonavista, tlie steamer runs N. by W. across Bonavista Bay, 
passing the Gooseberry Isles on the port bow. After over 3 hours' run, 
the N. shore is approached, and the harbor of Greenspond is entered. 
This town contains over 1,000 inhabitants, and is situated on an island 
1 M. square, so rugged that soil for house-gardens had to be brought from 
the mainland. A large business is done here in the fisheries and the seal- 
trade, and most of the inhabitants are connected with either the one or the 
other. The entrance to the harbor is difficult, and is marked by a fixed 
red light, visible for 12 M. 

The steamer now runs N. E. and N. for about 18 M. to Cape Freels, 
passing great numbers of islands, some of which are inhabited by fisher- 
meo, while others are the resort of myriads of sea-birds, who are seen 
hovering over the rocks in great flocks. Soon after passing the arid high- 
lands of Cape Freels, the course is laid to the N. W. across the opening of 
Sir Charles Hamilton's Sound, a broad and deep arm of the sea which is 
studded with many islands. Leaving the Cape Eidge and Windmill Hill 
astern, the Penguin Islands are seen, IS^-M. from Cape Freels; and 6 M. 
farther N. W, the Wadkam Isles are passed, where, on a lonety and surf- 



204 Route 55. TOGO. 

beaten rock, is the Offer Wadhara lighthouse, a circular brick tower 100 
ft. high, exhibiting a fixed white light, which is visible for 12 M. To the 
N- E., and well out at sea, is Funic Island, near which are good sealing- 
grounds. 

Funk Island was visited by Cartier in 1534, who named it (and the adjacent rocks) 
Les Isles des Oyseaux. Here he saw a white bear " as large as a cow," which had 
swum 14 leagues from Newfoundland. "He then coasted along all the northern 
part of that great island, and he says that you meet nowhere else better ports or a 
more wretched country ; on every side it is nothing but frightful rocks, sterile lands 
covered with a scanty moss ; no trees, but only some bushes half dried up ; that 
nevertheless he found men there well made, who wore their hair tied on the top of 
the head." The isles were again visited by Cartier in July, 1535, in the ship Grand 
Hermine. " If the soyle were as good as the harboroughes are, it were a great com- 
moditie; but it is not to be called the new found land, but rather stones and cragges 

and a place fit for wilde beastes In short, I believe this was the land allotted 

to Caiue." Such was the unfavorable description given by Jaques Cartier of the 
land between Cape Eonavista and the Strait of Belle Isle. 

It is supposed that either the Baccalieu or the Penguin Islands were the "Feather 
Islands,'" which the Annates SkallwUini and Ligviann's state were discovered by 
the Northmen in the year 1285. The Saga of Eric the Red tells that Leif, son of the 
Earl of Norway, visited the Labrador and Newfoundland shores in 994. "Then 
sailed they to the land, and cast anchor, and put off boats, and went ashore, and 
saw there no grass. Great icebergs were over all up the country, but like a plain of 
flat stones was all from the sea to the mountains, and it appeared to them that this 
land had no good qualities." Leif named this country Helluland (from Hella, a flat 
stone), distinguishing Labrador as Helluland it Mikla. In 1288 King Eric sent the 
mariner Rolf to Iceland to call out men for a voyage to these shores ; and the name 
Nyja Land, or Nyja Fimdu Land, was then applied to the great island to the S., 
and was probably adopted by the English (in the Anglicized form of Newfoundland) 
during the commercial intercourse between England and Iceland in the 15th cen- 
tury. 

9^ M. N. W. by N., Ca2)e Fogo is approached, and is a bold promontory 
214 ft. high, terminating Fogo Island on the S. E. The course continues 
to the N. W. ofl" the rugged shores of the island, and at 6.^ M. from Cape 
Fogo, Round Head is passed, and the steamer assumes a course more to 
the westward. 6-8 M. from Round Head she enters the harbor of Fogo, 
a port of entry and post-town 216 AI. from St. John's. The population is 
740, with 2 churches ; and the town is of great local importance, being the 
depot of supplies for the fishing-stations of the N. shore. (See also Route 
58 for this and other ports in the Bay of Notre Dame.) 

"The western headlands of Fogo are exceedingly attractive, lofty, finely broken, 

of a red and purplish brown, tinted here and there with pale green As we pass 

the bold prominences and deep, narrow bays or fiords, they ai'e continually changing 
and surprising us with a new scenery. And now the great sea-wall, on our right, 
opens and discloses the harbor and village of Fogo, the chief place of the island, 
gleaming in the setting sun as if there were flames shining through the windows. 
Looking to the left, all the western region is one fine ^gean, a sea filled with a mul- 
titude of isles, of manifold forms and sizes, and of every height, from mountain pyra- 
mids and crested ridges down to rounded knolls and tables, rocky ruins split and 
shattered, giant slabs sliding edgewise into the deep, columns and grotesque masses 
rufiied with cui-ling surf, — the Cyclades of the west. I climb the shrouds, and be- 
hold fields and lanes of water, an endless and beautiful network, a little Switzerland 
with her vales and gorges filled with the purple sea." (Noble.) 

In passing out of Fogo Harbor, the bold bluff of Fogo Head (345 ft. high) 
is seen on the 1., back of which is Brimstone Head. The vessel steams 



TWILLINGATE. Route 55. 205 

in to the W., up the Bay of Notre Dame, soon passing Fogo Head, and 

opening the Change Island Tickles on the S. Change Island is then seen 
on the 1., and the course is laid across to the lofty and arid hills of Bacca- 
lieu Island. At 22 M. from Fogo the steamer enters the harbor of Twil- 
lingate (the Anglicized form of TouUnr/uet, the ancient French name of 
the port). The town of Twillingate is the capital of the district of Twil- 
lingate and Fogo, the most northerly political and legal division of New- 
foundland, and has a population of 2,790, with 3 churches. It is situated 
on two islands, and the sections are connected by a bridge. Farming is 
carried on to a considerable extent in the vicinity, but with varvin^- suc- 
cess, owing to the short and uncertain summers. The houses in the town 
are (as usually in the coast settlements) very inferior in appearance, 
snugness and warmth being the chief objects sought after in their archi- 
tecture. 

The finest breed of Newfountllanil dogs were formerly found about the Twillingate 
Isles, and were generally distinguished by their deep black color, with a white cross 
on the breast. They were smaller than the so-called Newfoundland dogs of America 
and Britain ; were almost amphibious ; and lived on fish, salted, fresh, or decayed. 
Like the great mahogany-colored dogs of Labrador, these animals were distino-uished 
for rare intelligence and unbounded affection (especially for children) ; and were 
exempt from hydrophobia. A Newfoundland dog of pure blood is now worth from 
^ 75 to $ 100. 

The steamer passes out of Twillingate Harbor and runs by Gull Island. 
The course is to the S. W., off the rugged shores of the Black Islets, and 
the N. promontory of the great New World Island. 14 M. from Twillingate 
she reaches the post-town of Exploits Island, a place of 530 inhabitants, 
with a large fleet of fishing-boats. (See also Eoute 58.) 

From Exploits Island the Bay of Notre Dame is crossed, and the harbor 
of Tilt Cove is entered. This village has 770 inhabitants, and is prettily 
situated on the border of a picturesque lake. The vicinity is famous for 
its copper-mines, which were discovered in 1857 and opened in 1865. Be- 
tween 1865 and 1870, 45,000 tons of ore, valued at S 1,180,810, were 
extracted and shipped away. It is found in pockets or bunches 3-4 ft. 
thick, scattered through the heart of the hills, and is secured by level tun- 
nels several thousand feet long, connected with three perpendicular main 
shafts, 216 ft. deep. There is also a valuable nickel-mine here, with a lode 
10 inches thick, worked by costly machinery, and producing ore worth 
% 332 a ton. A superior quality of marble is found in the vicinity, but is 
too far from a market to make it worth while to quarry. The male inhab- 
itants of Tilt Cove are all minei-s. 

The next stopping-place is at Nipper's Harbor, a small fishing-village 
10 M. S. W. of Tilt Cove. The harbor is the best on the N. shore of the 
Bay of Notre Dame, and lies between the Nipper's Isles and the mainland. 
On alternate trips the mail-steamer calls also at Little Bay Island, 6-8 M. 
S. of Nipper's harbor. 



206 Route 56. CONCEPTION BAY. 

The great copper-mines of this region now employ thousands of miners, 
and produce vast quantities of rich ore. Tlie new railway from St. John's 
is heading toward the N. shore of the Bay of Notre Dame, to reach the 
mines. They are owned in London, and much of the ore is shipped to 
"Wales, to be smelted. Since the year 1880, these remote shores have 
received great accessions of population; a telegraph line has been 
built along the coast to St. John's ; and new roads begin to reach in- 
land, including the great highway across the island, to Indian Pond, 
Grand Lake, and the Bay of Islands, surveyed in 1878, in which year 
Governor Sir John Glover and the Rev. M. Harvey crossed the island on 
this line, in canoes, finding immense areas of arable and grazing land, 
deposits of coal and other minerals, etc. 

The Hercules connects with the Northern Coastal steamer at its last 
port, and goes on to Labrador (see pages 223 to 229). 

56. St. John's to Conception Bay. 

The new railway runs out from St. John's towards Conception Bay, connecting 
■with mail-stages for Tarious localities. It is under contemplation to extend a branch 
of the railway by Harbor Grace to Carbonear. 

A small steamboat plies up and down the bay at certain seasons. 

Fares. — Portugal Cove to Brigus, 18 M., fare $1.40 ; to Carbonear, 20 M. ; to 
Bay Roberts, 20 IVI. ; to Harbor Grace, 20 M., fare, $1.50. 

There is also a road extending around Conception Bay. It is 20 M. from St. 
John's to Topsail, by way of Portugal Cove, passing Beachy, Broad, and Horse 
Coves. The more direct route leads directly across the N. part of Avalon from St. 
John's to Topsail. The chief villages and the distances on this road are as follows 
St. John's to Topsail, 12 M. ; Kiliigrews, 18 ; Holyrood, 28 ; ChapeFs Cove, 33 
Harbor Main, 34^ ; Salmon Cove, 37 : Colliers, 40 ; Brigus, 46 ; Port de Grave, 51 
Spaniard's Bay, 66 ; Harbor Grace, 63 ; Carbonear, 67h ; Salmon Cove, 72 ; Spout 
Cove, 76^^; Western Bay, 82; Northern Bay, 87; Island Cove, 93J; Caplin Cove, 
97 ; Bay Verd, 105. 

The stage-road, after leaving St. John's, traverses a singular farming 
country for several miles, and then enters a rugged region of hills. Portu- 
gal Cove is soon reached, and is picturesquely situated on the ledges near 
the foot of a range of highlands. It contains over 700 inhabitants, with 
2 churches, and has a few small farms adjacent (see page 195). 

Gaspar Cortereal explored this coast in the year 1500, and named Conception 
Bay. He carried home such a favorable account that a Portuguese colony was es- 
tablished at the Cove, and 50 ships were sent out to the fisheries. In 1578, 400 sail 
of vessels were seen in the bay at one time, prosecuting the fisheries under all flags. 
The colony was broken up by the English fleet under Sir Francis Drake, who also 
drove the French and Portuguese fishermen from the coast. 

Belle Isle lies off shore 3 M. from the Cove, whence it may be visited by ferry- 
boats (also from Topsail). This interesting island is 9 M. long and 3 M. wide, and 
is traversed by a line of bold hills. It is famous for the richness of its deep black 
soil, and produces wheat, oats, potatoes, and hay, with the best of butter. The 
lower Silurian geological formation is here finely displayed in long parallel strata, 
amid which iron ore is found. The cliffs which front on the shore are very bold, 
and sometimes overhang the water or else are cut into strange and fantastic shapes 
by the action of the sea. Two or three brilliant little waterfalls are seen leaping 
from the upper levels. Belle Isle has 600 inhabitants, located in two villages. Lance 
Cove, at the W. end, and the Beach, on the S. 



HAKBOR GRACE. Route 56. 207 

The steamer runs out to the S. W. between Belle Isle and the bold 
heights about Portugal Cove and Broad Cove, and passes up Conception 
Bay for 18 M., with the lofty Blue Hills on the S. It then enters the nar- 
row harbor of Brigus {Sullivan's Hotel), a port of entry and the capital 
of the district of Brigus. It has 2,000 inhabitants, with Wesley an, Eoman, 
and Anglican churches, and a convent of the Order of Mercy. The town 
is built on the shores of a small lake between two rugged hills, and pre- 
sents a picturesque appearance. It has over 800 boats engaged in the 
cod-fishery, and about 30 larger vessels in trading and fishing. There are 
a few farms in the vicinity, pi^oducing fair ci-ops in return for great 
labor. The best of these are on the bright meadows near Clark's Beach, 
4 M. from the town; and several prosperous villages are found in the 
vicinity. Near the town is the singular double peak called the Twins, 
and a short distance S. W. is the sharp and conical Thumb Peak (598 ft. 
high). 

The steamer passes out fpom the rock-bound harbor and runs N. by the 
bold hill of Brigus Lookout (400 ft. high). Beyond Burnt Head, Bay de 
Grave is seen opening on the 1., with several hamlets, aggregating 2,600 in- 
habitants. Cupids and Bareneed are the chief of these villages, the latter 
being on the narrow neck of land between Bay de Grave and Bay Roberts, 
2^ M. from Blow-me-down Head. Green Point is now rounded, and the 
course is laid S. W. up Bay Roberts, passing Coldeast Point on the port 
bow and stopping at the village of Bay Roberts {Moore's Hotel). This 
place consists of one long street, with 2 churches and several wharves, 
and has 1,000 inhabitants, most of whom spend the summer on the Lab- 
rador coast. 

Passing out from Bay Roberts, Mad Point is soon left abeam, and Span^ 
iard's Bay is seen on the 1., entering the land for 83 M., and dotted with 
fishing-establishments. The bay is surrounded by a line of high hills, 
on whose promontories are two or three chapels. The hamlet and church 
of BryanVs Cove are next seen, in a narrow glen at the base of the hills, 
and the steamer passes on around the dangerous and surf-beaten Harbor- 
Grace Islands (ofi" Feather Point), on one of which is a revolving white- 
and-red flash light, 151 ft. above the sea, and visible for 18 M. 

Harbor Grace (two inferior inns) is the second city of Newfoundland, 
and is the capital of the district of Harbor Grace. It has 6,770 inhab- 
itants, with several churches, a weekly newspaper, and fire and police 
departments. The town is built on level land, near the shelter of the 
Point of Beach, with its wharves well protected by a long sand-strip. 
The bay is in the form of a wedge, decreasing from I2 M. in width to -J 
M., and is insecure except in the sheltered place before the city. The 
trade of this port is very large, and about 200 ships enter the harbor 
yearly. There is a stone court-house and a strong prison, and the Con- 
vent of the Presentation is on the Carbonear road. The Eoman Catholic 



208 Routed?. CARBONEAR 

cathedral is the finest building in the city, and its high and symmetrical 
dome is a landmark for vessels entering the port. The interior of the 
cathedral is profusely ornamented, having been recently enlarged and 
newly adorned. Most of the houses in the city are mean and unprepos- 
sessing, being rudely constructed of wood, and but little improved by 
painting. 

A rugged road runs N. W. 15 M. across the peninsula to Heart's Content 
(see Route 57). A road to the N. reaches (in 1^ M.) the farming village of Mosquito 
Cove, snugly embosomed in a pretty glen near the cultivated meadows. About the 
year 1610 a colony was planted here by the agents of that English company in which 
were Sir Francis Bacon, the Earl of Southampton, and other knights and nobles. 
King James I. granted to this company all the coast between Capes Bonavista and 
St. Mary, but their enterprise brought no pecuniary returns. 

Carbonear is 1^ M. by road from Mosquito Cove (3 M. from Harbor 
Grace), and is reached by the steamer after passing Old Sow Point and 
rounding Carbonear Island. This town has 2,000 inhabitants, with 3 
churches, and Weslej^an and Catholic schools. Several wharves are built 
out to furnish winter-quarters for the vessels and to accommodate the 
large fish-trade of the place. It is 21 M. by boat to Poi'tugal Cove, across 
Conception Bay. This town was settled by the French early in the l7th 
century, under the name of Carboniere, but was soon occupied by the 
British. In 1696 it was one of the two Newfoundland towns that re- 
mained in the hands of the English, all the rest having been captured by 
Iberville's French fleet. Other marauding French squadrons were beaten 
off by the men of Carbonear in 1705-6, though the adjacent coast was 
devastated ; and in 1762 Carbonear Island was fortified and garrisoned by 
the citizens. 

The mail-road runs N. from Carbonear to Bay Verd, passing the villages of Cro- 
ker's Cove, 1 M. ; Freshwater, 2 ; Salmon Cove, 5 ; Perry's Cove, 8 ; Broad Cove, 
15; Western Bay, 17; Northern Bay, 20 ; Job's Cove, 25; Island Cove, 27; Low 
Point, 33 ; Bay Yerd, 38. There is no harbor along this shore, the " coves " being 
mere open bights, swept by sea-winds and affording insecure anchoi'age. The in- 
habitants are engaged in the fisheries, and have made some attempts at farming, in 
defiance of the early and biting frosts of this high latitude. Snlwon Cove is near 
the black and frowning cliffs of Salmon Cove Head, and is famous for its great num- 
bers of salmon. Near Ochre Pit Cove are beds of a reddish clay which is used for 
paint, and it is claimed that the ancient Boeothic tribes obtained their name of 
" Bed Indians " from their custom of staining themselves with this clay. 

iJay Verd, see page 201. 

57. Trinity Bay. 

This district may be visited by taking the Northern Coastal steamer (see Route 55) 
to Bay Verd, Old Perlican, or Trinity; or by passing from St John's to Harbor 
Grace by Route 56, and thence by the road to Heart's Content (15 M.). The latter 
Tillage is about 80 M. from St. John's by the road around Conception Bay. 

Heart's Content is situated on a fine harbor about half-way up Trinity 
Bay, and has 880 inhabitants, most of whom are engaged in the Labrador 
fisheries or in shipbuilding. The scenery in the vicinity is very striking, 
partaking of the boldness and startling contrast which seems peculiar to 
this sea-girt Provuace. Just back of the village is a small lake, over 



TRINITY BAY. 



Route 57. 209 



which rises the dark mass of Mizzen Hill, 604 ft. high. Heart's Content 
derives its chief importance and a world-wide fame, from the fact that 
here is the W. terminus of the old Atlantic telegraph-cable. The office of 
the company is near the Episcopal Church, and is the only good building 
in the town, 

" Throb on, strong pulse of thunder ! beat 
From answering beach to beach. ; 
Fuse nations in thy kindly heat, 
And melt the chains of each 1 

" Wild terror of the sky above. 
Glide tamed and dumb below ! 
Bear gently. Ocean's carrier-dove, 
Thy errands to and fro. 

" Weave on, swift shuttle of the Lord, 
Beneath the deep so far. 
The bridal robe of earth's accord, 
The funeral shroud of war ! 

" For lo ! the fall of Ocean's wall 
Space mocked and time outrun ; 
And round the world the thouglit of all 
Is as the thought of one.' 
John G. Whittiee s Cable Hymn. 

The road running N. from Heart's Content leads to New Perlican, 3 M. ; Sillee 
Cove, 6 M. ; Hants Harbor, 12 ; Seal Cove, 19 ; Lance Cove, 24 ; Old Perlican, 28; 
and Grate's Cove, 34. 

Neio Perlican is on the safe harbor of the same name, and has about 
420 inhabitants, most of whom are engaged in the cod-fishery and in ship- 
building. A packet-boat runs from this point across the Bay to Trinity. 
Near the village is a large table-rock on which several score of names have 
been inscribed, some of them over two centuries old. 

Old Perlican is about the size of Heart's Content, and is scattered along 
the embayed shores inside of Perlican Island. It is overlooked by a 
crescent-shaped range of dark and barren hills. The Northern Coastal 
steamer calls at this port once a month during the season of navigation. 



" O lonel3' Bay of Trinity, 
O dreary sliores, give ear ! 
Lean down into the white-lipped sea, 
The voice of God to hear ! 

" From world to world His couriers fly, 
Thought-winged and shod with fire ; 
The nngel of His stormy sky 
Rides down the sunken wire. 

" What saith the herald of the Lord ? 
' The world s long strife is done : 
Close wedded by that mystic cord, 
Its continents are one. 

*' ' And one in heart, as one in blood, 

Shall all her peoples be ; 
The hands of human brotherhood 
Are clasped beneath the sea." 



The southern road from Heart's Content leads to Heart's Desire, 6 M. ; Heart's 
Delight, 9 ; Shoal Bay, 14 ; Witless Bay, 19 ; Green Harbor, 23 ; Hope All, 28 ; New 
Harbor, 32; and Dildo Cove, 35. The villages on this road are all small, and are 
mostly inhabited by the toilers of the sea. The country about Green Harbor and 
Hope All is milder and more pastoral than are the cUff-bound regions on either side. 
From New Harbor a road runs E. by Spaniard's Bay (Conception Bay) to St. John's, 
in 68 M. To the S. aod W. lie the fishing-hamlets on the narrow isthmus of Avalon, 
which separates PlacentiaBay from Trinity Bay by a strip of land 7M. long, joining 
the peninsula of Avalon to the main island. The deep estuary called Bull Armrvins 
up amid the mountains to within 2 M. of the Come-by-chance River of Placentia 
Bay, and here it is proposed to make a canal joining the two bays. 

Heart's Ease is 15 M. from Heart's Content (by boat), and is at the S. entrance 
of Random Sound. It is a fishing-village with 200 inhabitants and a church. To 
the S. is the grand cliff-scenery around St. Jones Harbor, and the long and river- 
like Deer Harbor, filled with islands, at whose head is Centre Hill, an isolated cone 
over 1,000 ft. high. From the summit of Centre Hill or of Crown Hill may be seen 
nearly the whole extent of the Placentia and Trinity Bays, with their capes and 
islands, villages and harbors. Just above Heart's Ease is Random Island, covering 
a large area, and separated from the main by the deep and narrow watercourses 
called Random Sound and Smith's Sound. There is much fine scenery in the sounds 
and their deep arms, and salmon-fishing is here carried on to a considerable extent. 
There are immense quantities of slate on the shores, some of which has been quar- 

N 



210 Route 58. EIVER OF EXPLOITS. 

ried (at Wilton GroTe). The two sounds are about 80 M. long, forming three sides 
of a square around Random Island, and have a width of from j^ M. to 2 M. " The 
sail up Smith's Sound was very beautiful. It is a fine riTer-like arm of the sea, 1-2 
M. wide, with lofty, and in many places precipitous, rocky banks, covered with wood. 
.... The character of the scenery of Random Sound is wild and beautiful, and cou- 
veying, from its stillness and silence, the feeUng of utter solitude and seclusion." 

Trinity is the most convenient point from Avhich to visit the N. shore of 
the Bay (see page 201). The southern road runs to Trouty, 7 M. ; New 
Bonaventure, 12 M. ; and Old Bonaventure, 18 M. Beyond these settle- 
ments is the N. entrance to Random Sound. 

68. The Bay of Notre Dame. 

Passengers are landed from the Northern Coastal steamer at Togo, Twillingate, 
Little Bay Island, Nipper's Harbor, or Tilt Cove, — all ports on this bay (see 
pages 204^ 205). 

Fogo is situated on Fogo Island, which lies between Sir Charles Ham- 
ilton's Sound and the Bay of Notre Dame. It is 13 M. long from E. toW., 
and 8 M. wide, and its shores are bold and rugged. There are 10 fishing- 
villages on the island, with nearly 2,000 inhabitants (exclusive of Fogo), 
and roads lead across the hills from cove to cove. 

It is 9 M. by road from Fogo to Cape Fogo; 7 M. to Shoal Bay; 5 to Joe Bait's 
Arm (400 inhabitants); 7 toLittle Seldom -come-by ; and 9 to Seldom-come-by, a 
considerable village on a fine safe liarbor, which is often filled with fleets of schoon- 
ers and brigs. If ice on the coast or contrary winds prevent the fishermen from 
reaching Labrador in the early summer, hundreds of sail bear away for this harbor, 
and wait here until the northern voyage is practicable. There is no other secure 
anchorage for over 50 M. down the coast Tilto7i Harbor is on the E. coast of the 
island, and is a Catholic village of about 400 inhabitants. The principal settlements 
reached bv boat from Fogo are Apsey Cove, 14 M. : Indian Islands, 14; Blackhead 
Cove, 14 ; "Rocky Bay, 25 ; Barr'd Islands, 4 ; and Change Islands, 8. 20 M S. W. 
is Gander Bay , the outlet of the great Gander-Bay Ponds, which bathe the slopes of 
the Blue Hills and the Heart Ridge, a chain of mountains 30 M. long. 

From Exploits Island (see page 205) boats pass S. 12 ]\I. through a great 
archipelago to the mouth of the River of Exploits. This noble river de- 
scends from Red-Indian Pond, about 90 M. to the S. W., and has a strong 
current with frequent rapids. The Grand Falls are 145 ft. high, where 
the stream breaks through the Chute-Brook Hills. An Indian trail leads 
from near the mouth of the river S. W. across tlie vast barrens of the in- 
terior, to the Bay of Despair, on the S. coast of Newfoundland. The Eiver 
of Exploits flows for the greater part of its course through level lowlands, 
covered with evergreen forests. It may be ascended in steamers for 12 
M., to the first rapid, and from thence to the Red-Indian Pond by boats 
(making frequent portages). 

The river was first ascended by Lieut. Buchan, R.N., in 1810, under orders to find 
and conciliate the Red Indians, who had tied to the interior after being nearly ex- 
terminated by the whites. He met a party of them, and left hostages in their hands 
while he carried some of their number to the coast. But his guests decamped, and 
he returned only to find that the hostages had been cruelly murdered, and the tribe 
had fled to the remote interior. In 1823 three squaws were captured, taken to St. 
John, loaded with presents, and released ; since which time no Red Indians have 
been seen, and it is not known whether the tribe is extinct, or has fled to Labrador, 



RED-INDIAN POND. Route 58. 211 

or is secluded in some more remote part of the interior. They were very numerous 
at the tune of the advent of the Europeans, and received the new-comers with con- 
fidence ; but thereafter for two centuries they were hunted down for the sake of the 
rich furs in their possession, and gradually retired to tlie distant inland lakes. 

In 1S27 the IJoeotliic Society of St .Iohn"s sent out envoys to find the Rod Indians 
and open friendly intcrcourKe with thein. But they wtro unable to get sight of a 
single Indian during long Weeks of rambling through the interior, and it is con- 
cluded that the race is extinct. On the shor(;s of tlio Inroad and beautiful Red-Indian 
Pond Mr. Cormack found several long-deserted villages of wigwams, with canoes 
and curious aboriginal cemeteries. This was evidently the fivorite seat of th'^ tribe' 
and from this point their deer-fences were seen for over 30 M. (seo also page ^is). ' 

Little Bay Island (250 inhabitants), 15 M. from Tilt Cove, is the most 
fiworable point from which to visit Hall's Bay. 8 M. S. W. are the settle- 
ments at tlie mouth of Hall's Bay, of which Ward's Harbor is the chief, 
having 200 inhabitants and a factory for canning salmon. There are valu- 
able salmon-fisheries near the head of the bay. From Hall's Bay to the N. 
and W., and towards White Bay, are the favorite summer feeding-grounds 
of the immense herds of doer which range, almost unmolested, over the in- 
terior of the island. The hunting-grounds are usually entered from this 
point, and sportsmen should secure two or three well-certified Micmac 
guides. 

A veteran British sportsman has written of this region : " I know of no country 
60 near Jinglaud which offers the same amount of inducement to the explorer natu- 
rahst or sportsman." It is to bo hoped, however, that no future visitors will imi- 
tate the atrocious conduct of a party of London sportsmen, who recently entered 
tiie^e hunting-grounds and massacred nearly 2,000 deer during the short season, 
leaving the forests filled with decaying game. Public opinion will sustain the Mic- 
mac Indians who are dependent on the deer for their living, and who have declared 
that they will prevent a repetition of such carnage, or punish its perpetrators in a 
summary manner. o > i i i 

The Indians and the half-breed hunters frequently cross the island from Ilall'a 
Bay by ascending Indian Broolc in boat3 fcr about 25 M., and then making a port- 
age to the chaiu ot ponds cniptyiug into Grand Pond, and de.-;cending by Beer Pond 
and the Ilumber River (skirting the Long Range) to the Lay of Islands. The transit 
is both arduous and perilous. 20 M. inland are the mountains called the Three 
iojwm, from whose summit may be seen the Grand Pond, the Bay of Exploits, and 
the Strait of Belle Isle. i j " 

The deer migrate to the S. W. in the autumn, and pass the winter near St. George's 
Bay and Cape Ray The Red Indians constructed many leagues of fence, from the 
Bay of Notre Dame to Red-Indian Pond, by which they intercepted the herds during 
their passage to the S. , and laid in supplies of provi. ions for the winter. 

Ketl- Indian Pond is about S'J M. S. W. of Hall's Bay. It is 40 M. long by 
5-b M. wide, and contains many islands. To the S. lie the great interior Ukcs ii 
an unexplored and trackless region. The chief of these are Croaker's Lake (10 M. 
du^tant), filled \yith islets ; Jameson's Lake, 20 M. long, between Serpentine Mt. and 
m. Misery ; Lake Bathurst, 17 by 5 M. ; and George IV. Lake, 18 by G M. 15 M. 
W ot Red-Indian Pond is Grand Pond, which is 60 M. long. (See page 218 ) 

*rom Nipper's Harbor the sportsman may pass up Green Bay, to the S. W., and 
enter the hunting-grounds (having first taken care to secure trusty guides). On the 
'il , ° , ^'^^ ^''l.}^ ^ copper-mine that was opened in IBGO, and has yielded well. 

1^ ^/*^? '■' ^'^ ^ ^™™ "^'^'^ ^^^'' SO M. from New Bay, and 24 M. from Kim- 
rod. 7 M. distant is Buryirn; Place, a small fi.hing-villagc, near which have been 
lound numerous birch-bark coffins and other memorials of the Red Indians. A road 
runs N. E from Tilt Cove, passing in 3 M. Hound Harbor, which is prolific iu cop- 
per ; and in 4 M Skop. Cove, famous for trout, and the station oi a government boat 
whica here watches the French fi.sheries. A road runs N. 7 M. from Shoe Cove to 
l.a Sue, on the French Shore (see Route 61) 



212 Route 59. PLACENTIA BAY. 

69. Placentia Bay 

Is included between Cape St. Mary and Cape Chapeau Eouge, and is 48 
M. wide. Placentia is the capital of the eastern shore, and is a port of 
entry and post-town, 80 M. from St. John's by road. It is built along a 
level strand, overshadowed by round detached hills, and maintains a large 
fleet of fishing-boats. There are remarkable cliffs on Point Verde and 
Dixon Island, near the town; and the views from Signal Hill and Castle 
Hill extend far out over the bay. There is much romantic scenery along 
the narrow channels of the N. E. and S. E. Arms, which extend from tlie 
harbor in among the mountains. 

In the year 1660 Placentia Bay was entered by two French frigates, which sailed up 
into the harbor and landed a strong force of soldiers, with heavy artillery and other 
munitions. Here they erected a strong fort, occupying a point so near the channel 
that the Baron La Hon tan (who was detached for duty here) said that " ships going 
in graze (so to speak) upon the angle of the bastion." The French held this post 
until 1713, when it was surrendered, according to the terms of the treaty of Utrecht. 
The port became famous as the resort of the French privateers which were destroy- 
ing the English fisheries, and Commodore Warren was sent out (in 1692) with three 
60-gun frigates and two smaller vessels to destroy the town. Warren ran in close 
to Placentia and opened fire, but was warmly received by the batteries at the en- 
trance and by Fort St. Louis. After a heavy cannonade of six hours' duration, the 
English fleet was forced to draw off. In 1696 Iberville gathered 14 war-vessels at 
Placentia, and having received 400 men of Quebec, sailed to the E. and overran all 
the Atlantic coast of Newfoundland, returning with 40-50 prize-ships and 600 
prisoners. In 1697 the great French fleet, which (under Iberville) destrojed all 
the British posts on Hudson's Bay, gathered here. So much did the British dread 
the batteries of Placentia and the warlike enthusiasm of M de Costabelle, its com- 
mander, that Admiral Walker, anchored at Sydney, with a splendid fleet carrying 
4,000 land-soldiers and 900 cannon, refused to obey his orders to reduce this little 
French fortress, and sailed back to Britain in disgrace. When France surrendered 
Newfoundland, in 1713, the soldiers and citizens of Placentia migrated to Cape Bre- 
ton ; and in 1744 a French naval expedition under M. de Brotz failed to recapture 
it from the British. This town afterwards became one of the chief ports of the 
Province ; but has of late years lost much of its relative importance. A road runs 
hence to St. John's in 80 M. ; also through the settlements on the S. to Distress 
Cove in 26 M. ; also S. W. 38 M. to Branch, on St. Mary's Bay. 

Little Placentia is on a narrow harbor 5 M. N. of Placentia, and has 383 
inhabitants. Near this point is a bold peak of the western range in 
Avalon, from which 67 ponds are visible. The islands in the bay are 
visited from this point. Ram's Islands (133 inhabitants) are 10 M. dis- 
tant; Pted Island (227 inhabitants) is 12 M. W.; and about 18 M. distant is 
Merasheen Island, which is 21 M. long, and has on its W. coast the Ragged 
Islands, 365 in number. The great lead-mines at La Manche are 12 M. N. 
of Little Placentia, on the Isthmus of Avalon, 7 M. from Trinity Bay. At 
the head of the bay, 33 M. from Little Placentia, is the village of North 
Harborj near the great Powdei'-Horn Hills, and 7 M. beyond is Black 
River, famous for its wild-fowl and other game. 

Harbor Bitj^et is 16 M. from Little Placentia, on the lofty and indented Long 
Island, and has 333 inhabitants. Near the S. W. part of Placentia Bay is the town 
and port of Burin, a station of the Western Coastal steamers (see page 214). 



ST. MARY'S BAY. Route 60. 213 

60. The Western Outports of Fewfonndland. — St. John's 

to Cape Eay. 

On aUcrnnte Thursdays or Fridays affer the arrival of the mails from Europe, the 
Western Coastal steamer leaves St. John's for the outports on the S. shore 

Fares. — St. John's to Ferrvlnnd, 10 s. ; Renewse, 10 s. : Trppassey, 17 s. 6 d. ; 
St. Mary's or Placentia, 20s. : Burin, 25s ; St. Lawrence, 27s. 6d. ; Gra,nd Bank, 
S5s. : St. Pierre, 82s 6d. ; Harbor Briton, 37s 6d ; Gaultois or Great Jervois, 
37 s. 6d. : Burgeo, 45 s. ; La Poile, 47 s. 6d. ; Rose Blanche, 50s ; Channel, 55s. ; 
Sydney, 70 s. Meals are included. The trip out and back takes 10 to 12 days. 

St. John's to Cape Race, see Route 54. 

Passinor through the rocky portals of the harbor of St. John's, the 
steamer directs her course to the S. along the iron-bound Strait Shore. 
After visiting Ferryland and Renewse (see page 198), the Red Hills are 
seen in the W. ; and beyond the lofty bare summit of Cape Ballard, the 
dreaded cliffs of Gape Eace (page 199) are rounded well off shore. Off 
Freshwater Point the course is changed to N. W., and Trepassey Bay is 
entered. The shores are lofty and bare, and open to the sweep of the 
sea. 8^ M. from Freshwater Point is Powles Head, on whose W. side the 
harbor of Trepassey is sheltered. The town contains 514 inhabitants, most 
of whom are engaged in the fisheries, and fronts on a secure harbor which 
is never closed by ice. Roads lead hence to Salmonier (31 M ) and Renewse. 

In 1628 Lord Baltimore's ships of Avalon, the Benediction and the F/cZor?/, entered 
Trepassey Bay under full sail, bent on attacking the French settlement. The Bene- 
diction first greeted the fleet with several cannon-shot, after which she sent a terrific 
broadside among the vessels. The Basque sailors fled to the shore, and the Victory, 
lowering her boats, took possession of all the vessels in the harbor and bore them 
away as prizes. The town of Trepassey was destroyed by a British naval attack in 1702. 

The steamer now runs S. W. to and around Cape Pine, on which is a 
tall circular tower which upholds a fixed light 314 ft. above the sea, visible 
at a distance of 24 M. 1 M. W. N. W. is Cape Freels, a little beyond 
Avhich is St. Shot's Bay. 

This narrow shore between Cape Pine and St. Shot's is said to be the most danger- 
ous and destructive district on the North American coast, and has been the scene of 
hundreds of shipwrecks. The conflicting and variable currents in these waters set 
toward the shore with great force, and draw vessels inward upon the ragged ledges. 
In former years disasters were frequent here, but at present mariners are warned 
off by the Admiralty charts and the lights and whistles. St. Shot's is as dreaded a 
name on the N coast as CapeHatteras is in the southern sea. In 1816 the transport 
Harpooner was wrecked on Cape Pine, and 200 people were lost. 

St. Mary's Bay is bouoded by Cape Freels and Lance Point, and extends for 28 
M. into the Peninsula of Avalon. On the E. shore is St. Mary^s, a court-house town 
and port of entry, situated on a deep land-locked harbor, and largely engaged in 
fishing. To the S. is the mountainous Cape English, near which a narrow sandy 
beach separates the bay from Holyrood Pond., a remarkable body of fresh water over 
12 M. long. It is 65 M- by road from St. Mary's to St. John's ; and at 16 M. dis- 
tance the village of Salmonier is reached. This is a fishing and farming town near 
the outlet of the broad Salmonier River, famous for its great salmon. To the N. W., 
at the head of the bay, is some striking scenery, near Colinet Bay, where empties 
the Hodge-Water River, descending from the Quemo-Gospen Ponds, in the interior 
of Avalon. There are several small hamlets in this vicinity ; and Colinet is accessible 
by land from St. John's in 56 M. The W. shore of St. Mary's Bay is mountainous 
and rugged, and has no settlements of any consequence. 



•:it HoHUOf), FORTUNE r>AY. 

Be\*ond tho boM Crtp^ St. Mary the sto.unor runs to tho K. W. aojv^j^ tho 
AvKlo ontrnnoo to riHoonth\ Iviy (soo p;\j;v 212). At ulnnit HO M. t^vju Oapa 
St. Miivy tho sharply dotlmnl headland of Capo Ohapoau Hougt^ booomea 
vijiible; mwi the* harbor of Buviu i* entoi'od «t about 42 M. fttnn Cape St. 
Mary. This harbor is tho tinost in KowtonuvUand, and is shoUonnl by 
lsh\nvls \vhOs>;o oUtV-bonnd sho»vs aiv noarlv UOO tl. high. On IVdviinsi' Uoad 
is a h>»hthouso 4S0 t>. abovo tho soa, boarinj; n iVYolviiijj Up;ht whioh la 
visiblo tor 'S! M. StiU farthor up, and ahwost oittiivlv h»ud-lo«kod, is tho 
Tnirin lulot, Tho town ot' Uuriu has 1,850 inhabitants, and Is au important 
tradinjix^tation, sxippiviusj; n givat part of Tlaoontia Uay. Tho ai^jaoont 
soonory is of tho boUlost and most rujigod ohar.\otor, tho lot^y islands vvinj; 
with tho inhmd n\oiuUains. 

On loavinj; Uurin tl»o ooui'so is laid to tho S. \Y., passinji' tho lofty pivm- 
ontorios of Corbin Hoad, Millor Head, and Kod Uoad. Uovond tho tall 
s\»puMoaf on Soulpin Tohit tho doop harboi-s of l.ittlo and Oivat St. Law- 
tvnvo aiv soon opouing to tho r. ; and tho soa-ivsistingiwkof Cap^ Cha/xfou 
/f>'M«/t* is noxt j^i^ssod. This pvat landmark i>t>somblos in sluvpo the ennva 
of a hat, and is 748 t>. high, with shoor pi'ocipioos over SOO ft. high. Fwm 
this poii\t tlvo ovun-so is noarly stnvight for SS M., to St. Tion'O, runuiag well 
atr, but alwavs in sight of a bold and olovalod shoro. 

St. Pierre, soo pago 185. 

On leaving St. Pion^e the course is to the N., passing, In 6 M.» the low 
shoivs of ih-xen lalaml, and thon nuuung for a long distance botwoon tho 
Mivpiolou Islauvls and May and nauttio Points (on tho mainland), which 
a»v abou^ 13 M. apart. When about half-way aoiwss Fortune 1k\y, Rrnnot 
Island (v^ M. long) is passed, and on its K. point is soeu a lighthouse 40S t>. 
above tho sea, showing a tlasliing light for 35 M. at sea. M. boywid this 
point is Sag\Mia Island, witli its villagv of fishormou; ai\d 5 M. farthor N. 
the steamer enters Harbor Uritou. llei-e is an Anglican Yillag\> of about 
^50 inhabitants, with an extensive local tnxde alou^ the shores of Fortvu\e 
Uay. The harbor is very sevMU*e and spacious, and runs far into the 
laiul. This town was settled iu lt>lt> by Welshmen, and was then named 

Fortune i?ay 

is ino\\>dtHl b«»tww« IVlnt May aixd Phss Ul»«d, anil te 85 M. 'wM<> ami 66 M. lowft. 
.F«»rUnio is ."» town of ovor 800 »nh;\bUants, svUvi»tt\t m\nr tlu> onti'aiKV of tho Ivtv, 
auil on tho I.huv.-iHuo »\>»il Its tMUM^iUv'' tov ohiotlv itovotcvl to tho tls-horit\<« »iul to 
ti'.ulinji' with 8t IMorw. S M. K, N. K. !uv tlvo hi^sjlilHiuls of r.H|H> Unuid Bmik, t\\nu 
N^hioh tho stunv tivuvls N. K. by tht> haudots of OaruijUi »ud Kivnotviuatx's Oovo to 
t\Mnt Vhu-«jiVo, Tl\o K. a«ul N sho»\>^s »xv Vi\>kou l\v Uo<>v ostu.HV»»>s, iu whioti aw 
Kwvatl t\.<hin>:~v<x^ttUMuo»»ts ; and i»» tht> ^. W. oornor aiv tho North and bUist l»ays, 
fan\ou>5 for hovnn>;-t\shoH<\<, whioh attmot lai'jtv^ tU^t^ts of Auioru-au vt\<i.<t>ls. On tti» 
W. shoiv i-< tl»o jn\v;jv»vus v\U,\^> of Ht>lIeort>ui, onc^j^ed in tlio owl and hon'ing 
t1shori«\<, .>*nd distant lv'> M. t\\nn H.tvbov l5vito>\ tuv\ds U'<*d f»vn» this {.nnnt to tht> 
\iU.«gt\s of Ivsrivw, lUuo IMnion, Oorbin, Kusi'iistv tlavKn- >V«\st, Ovxnvdvs' Oovt\ and 
St. .'aqntvs. flvo ottvor !t«>ttion»onts on tho W ,<hoiv aiv mow tlshinj;;-vStatious, oK\<t>ly 
honuu«Hl iu tH>t wt><>i\ tXw luouutaius and tiio soa, ai\vl aiv visit«\l by Kvkts tl\xuv Harbor 



BURGEO. Route GO. 215 

Hermitage Bay is an extensive bight of the sea to the N. of Pass Island. Its 
principal (own is Uermiluife Cove, an Anj^lican Bettlenient 9 M. from Harbor britoQ. 
N. ot'tlio l*.'iy JH liOiiK iKlaiiii, wliicli is ii5 iM. around, and HliclLern the IJay of J>e- 
ep'.iir, fanioiiH lor itH prolific Halnion-Ii^lierics. From tlic iiead of tlii.s bay Jndiaa 
trails Icatl inland to Lon{^ I'ond, Hound I'ond, and a ^reat cluKter of unvif-ited lakes 
situauid in a land of forests ;j,nd mountains. From tlie farther end of these inland 
waters diveri;c the great trails to the lUver of Exijloits and liall's liay. 

After running out to the S. W. between Sagona Island and Connaigro 
Head, the course is laid along the comparatively straight coast called tho 
Western Shore, extending from Fortune Bay to Cape Kay. Crossing the 
■wide cstaary of Hermitage Bay, the bold highlands of Cape La Hune are 
approached, 12 M. N. of the Penguin Islands. About 25 M. W. of Cape 
La Hune the steamer passes the liamea Islands, of which the isle called 
Columbe is remarkable for its height and boldness. There is a fishing- 
community located here ; and the August herrings are held as very 
choice. 

The old marine records report of the Ramea Isles : " In which isles are so great 
abundance of the huge and miglitie Bea-oxon with great teeth in the moneths of 
April, May, and June, that there haue been lifteeue huudreth killed there by one 
Buiall barke in the yecre IG'Jl-" 

In 1597 the EngliKh ship Hopewell entered the harbor of Ramea and tried to 
plunder the French vesKels there of their stores and powder, but was forced by a 
shore-battery to leave incontinently. 

About 9 M. W. N. W. of Ramea Columbe, the steamer enters the har- 
bor of Burgeo, a port of entry and trading-station of 650 inhabitants, sit- 
uated on one of the Burgeo Isles, which here form several small, snug 
harbors. This town is the most important on the Western Shore, and 
is a favorite resort for vessels seeking supplies. 3 M. distant is Upper 
Burrjeo, built on the grassy sand-banks of a small islet; and 7 M. N. is 
the salmon-fishery at Grandy's Brook, on the line of the N. Y., N. F. and 
London Telegraph. 

Beyond the Burgeo Isles the course is laid along the Western Shore, and 
at about 25 M. the massive heights at the head of Grand Bruit Bay are 
seen. 5 M. farther on, after passing Ireland Island, the steamer turns into 
La Poile Bay, a narrow arm of the sea which cleaves the hills for 10 M. 
The vessel ascends 3 M. to La Poile (Little Bay), a small and decadent 
fishing-village on the W. shore. 

The distance from La Poile to Channel, the last port of call, is 30 M,, 
and the coast is studded with small hamlets. Garia Bay is 5-6 M. W. 
of La Poile, and has two or three villages, situated amid picturesque 
scenery and surrounded by forests. Rose Blanche is midway betweea 
La Poile and Channel, and is a port of entry with nearly 500 inhabitants, 
situated on a small and snug harbor among the mountains. It has a con- 
siderable trade with the adjacent fishing-settlements. 8 M. beyond Rose 
Blanche are the Burnt Islands, and 3 M. farther on are the Dead Islands. 
At 8-10 M. inland are seen the dark and desolate crests of the Long- 
Range Mountains, sheltering the Codroy Valley. 



216 Route 61. PORT AU BASQUE. 

The I>ead Islands (Frencli, Les Isles aux Morts) are so named on account of 
the many fatal wrecks which have occurred on their dark rocks. The name was 
given after the loss of an emigrant-ship, when the islands were so fringed with 
human corpses that it took a gang of men five days to bury them. George Harvey 
formerly lived on one of the islands, and saved hundreds of lives by boldly putting 
out to the wrecked ships. About 1830 the Dispatch struck on one of the isles. &he 
was full of immigrants, and her boats could not live in the heavy gale which was 
rapidly breaking her up. But Harvey pushed out in his row-boat, attended only 
by his daughter (17 years old) and a boy 12 years old. He landed every one of the 
passengers and crew (1G3 in number) safely, and fed them for three weeks, inso- 
much that his family had nothing but fish to eat all winter after. In 1838 the 
Glasgow ship Rankin struck a rock off the isles, and went to pieces, the crew cling- 
ing to the stern-rail. In spite of the heavy sea, Harvey rescued them all (25 in 
number), by making four trips in his puut. " The whole coast between La Poile 
and Cape Eay seerns to have been at one time or other strewed with wrecks, Every 
house is surrounded with old rigging, spars, masts, sails, ships' bells, rudders, 
wheels, and other matters. The houses too contain telescopes, compasses, and por- 
tions of ships' furniture." (Prof. Jukes.) 

Channel (or Port au Basque) is 8-4 M. W. of the Dead Isles, and 30 
M. from La Poile. It is a port of entry and a transfer-station of the N. Y., 
N. F. and London Telegraph Company, and has nearly 600 inhabitants, 
with an Anglican church and several mercantile establishments. The 
fisheries are of much importance, and large quantities of halibut are 
caught in the vicinity. A few miles to the W. is the great Table 3It., 
over Cape Ray, beyond which the French Shore turns to the N. A 
schooner leaves Port au Basque every fortnight, on the arrival of the 
steamer from St. John's, and carries the mails N. to St. George's Bay, the 
Bay of Islands, and Bonne Bay (see Route 61). 

The steamer, on every alternate trip, runs S. W. from Channel to Syd- 
ney, Cape Breton. The course is across the open sea, and no land is seen, 
after the mountains about Cape Ray sink below the horizon, until the 
shores of Cape Breton are approached. 

Sydney, see page 150. 

61. The French Shore of Newfoundland. — Cape Eay to 

Cape St. John. 

It is not likely that any tourists, except, perhaps, a tew adventurous yachtsmen, 
will visit this district. It is destitute of hotels and roads, and has only one short 
and infrequent mail-packet route. The only settlements are a few widely scattered 
fishing-viilages, inhabited by a rude and hardy class of mariners ; and no form of 
local government has ever been established on any part of the shore. But the Editor 
is reluctant to pass over such a vast extent of the coast of the Maritime Provinces 
without some brief notice, especially since this district is in many of its features so 
unique. The Editor was unable, owing to the lateness of the season, to visit the 
Erench Shore in person, but has been aided in the preparation of the following 
notes, both by gentlemen who have traversed the coast and the inland lakes, and 
by various statistics of the Province. It is therefore believed that the ensuing 
itinerary is correct in all its main features. The distances have been verified by 
comparison with the British Admiralty charts. 

The French Shore may be visited by the trading-schooners which run from port 
to port throughout its whole extent during the summer season. The most interest- 
ing parts of it may also be seen by taking the mail-packet which leaves Port au 
Basque (Channel) fortnightly, and runs N. to Bonne Bay, touching aU along the 
coast. 



CAPE RAY. Route 61. 217 

The 'French. Sliore extends from Cape St. John (N. of Notre Dame Ba}') 
around the N. and VV". coasts of the island to Cape Ray, including the richest val- 
leys and fairest soil of Newfoundland. It is nearly exempt from fogs, borders on 
the most prolific fishing-grounds, and is called the "Garden of Newfoundland." 
By the treaties of 1713, 1763, and 1783, the French received the right to catch and 
cure fish, and to erect huts and stages along this entire coast, — a concession of 
which they have availed themselves to the fullest extent. There are several Eriti.sh 
colonies along the shore, but they live without law or magistrates, since the home 
government believes that such appointments would be against the spirit of the 
treaties with France (which practically neutralized the coast). The only authority 
is that which is given by courtesy to the resident clergymen of the settlements. 

It is 9 M. from Channel to Cape Ray, where the French Shore begins. The dis- 
tances from this point are given as between harbor and harbor, and do not represent 
the straight course from one outport to another at a great distance. 

Cape Ray to Codroy,13 M. ; Cape Anguille, 18 (Crabb's Brook, 45; Middle Branch, 
60 ; Robinson's Point, 55 ; Flat Bay, 57 ; Sandy Point, 65 ; Indian Head, 75) ; Cape 
St George, 54 ; Port au Port (Long Point), 84 ; Bay of Islands, 108 ; Cape Gregory, 
125; Bonne Bay, 140 ; Green Cove, 147 ; Cow Harbor, 158 ; Portland Bill, 176 ; Bay 
of Ingornachoix (Point Rich), 206 ; Portau Choix, 208 ; Point Ferolle, 220 : Flower 
Cove, 245 ; Savage Cove, 249- ; Sandy Bay, 250; Green Island. 255; Cape Norman, 
285 ; Pistolet Island, 292 ; Noddy Harbor, 306 ; Quirpon (Cape Bauld), 310 ; Griguet 
Bay, 321; St. Lunaire, 326; Braha Bay, 33) ; St. Anthony, 333; Goose Harbor 
(Hare Bay). 340; Harbor deVeau, 348 ; St. Julien, 353 ; Croque,358; Conche, 373; 
Canada Bay, 387 ; Great Harbor Deep, 410 ; La Fleur de Lis, 432 ; La Scie, 455 ; Cape 
St. John, 460. 

* Cape Ray is the S. W. point of NeAvfoundland, and is strikingly pic- 
turesque in its outlines. 3 M. from the shore rises a great table-moun- 
tain, with sides 1,700 ft. high and an extensive plateau on the summit. 
Nearer the sea is the Sugar Loaf, a symmetrical conical peak 800 ft. high, 
N. of which is the Tolt Peak, 1,280 ft. high. These heights may be seen 
for 50 M. at sea, and the flashing light on the cape is visible at night for 20 
M. From this point St. Paul's Island bears S. W. 42 M., and Cape North 
is W. by S. 57 M. (see page 160). 

Soon after passing out to the W. of Cape Eay, Cape Angidlle is seen on 
the N., — a bold promontory nearly 1,200 ft. high. Between these capes 
is the valley of the Gi^eat Codroy River, with a farming population of 
several hundred souls ; and along its course is the mountain-wall called 
the Long Range, stretching obliquely across the island to the shores of 
White Bay. 

St. George's Bay extends for about 50 M. inland, and its shores are 
said to be very rich and fertile, abounding also in coal. The scenery 
about the hamlet of Crabb's Brook "forms a most lovely and most Eng- 
lish picture." There are several small hamlets around the bay, of which 
Sandy Point is the chief, having 400 inhabitants and 2 churches. The 
people are rude and uncultured, fond of roaming and adventure ; but the 
moral condition of these communities ranks high in excellence, and great 
defei-ence is paid to the clergy. The Micmac Indians are often seen in 
this vicinity, and are partially civilized, and devout members of the Catholic 
Church. The country to the E. is mountainous, merging into wide grassy 
plains, on which the deer pass the winter season, roaming about the icy 
levels of the great interior lakes. 
10 



218 Route 61. GRAND POND. 

Grand Pond, is usually (and rarely) visited from St. George's Bay. After as- 
cending the broad sound at the head of the bay for about 10 M. , a blind forest-path 
is entered, and the Indian guides lead the -way to the N. E. over a vast expanse of 
moss (very uncomfortable travelling). The Hare-Head Hills are passed, and after 
about 15 M. of arduous marching, the traveller reaches the Grand Pond. "And a 
beautiful sight it was. A narrow strip of blue water, widening, as it proceeded, to 
about 2 M. , lay between bold rocky precipices covered with wood, and rising almost 
directly from the water to a height of 5-600 ft., having bare tops a little farther 
back at a still greater elevation." The Bay Indians keep canoes on the pond, and 
there are several wigwams on the shores. Game and fish are abundant in these 
woods and waters, since it is but once in years that the all-slaying white man 
reaches the pond, and the prudent Indians kill only enough for their own actual 
needs. There is a lofty island 20 M. long, on each side of which are the narrow and 
ravine-like channels of the pond, with an enormous depth of water. The route to 
Hall's Bay (see page 211) leads up the river from the N. E. corner of the pond 
for about 35 M., passing through four lakes. From the uppermost pond the canoe 
is carried for J M. and put into the stream which empties into Hall's Bay. 3 M. W. 
of the inlet ot this river into Grand Pond is the outlet of Junction Brook, a rapid 
stream which leads to the Humber River and Deer Pond in 8 - 10 M., and is passable 
by canoes, with frequent portages. 

Near the N. end of Grand Pond, about the year 1770, occurred a terrible battle 
between the Micmacs and the Red Indians, which resulted in the extermination of 
the latter nation. The Micmacs were a Catholic tribe from Nova Scotia, who had 
moved over to Newfoundland, and were displacing the aboriginal inhabitants, the 
Red Indians, or Bceothics. In the great battle on Grand Pond the utmost deter- 
mination and spirit were shown by the Bceothics, invaded here in their innermost 
retreats. But they had only bows and arrows, while the Micmacs were armed with 
guns, and at the close of the battle not a man, woman, or child of the Red Indians 
of this section was left alive. 

This region is densely covered with forests of large trees (chiefly fir and spruce), 
alternating with '' the barrens," — vast tracts which are covered with thick moss. 
Gov Sir John Harvey, after careful inspection, claims that the barrens are under- 
laid with luxuriant soil, while fcr the cultivation of grasses, oats, barley, and pota- 
toes there is " no country out of England or Egypt superior to it." The intense 
and protracted cold of the winter seasons will preclude agriculture on a large scale. 

These inland sohtudes are adorned, during the short hot summer, with many 
brilliant flowers. Among these are great numbers of wild rnses, violets, iri.-es, 
pitcher-plants, heather, maiden-hair, and vividly colored lichens ; while (says Sir 
R. Bonnycastle) " in the tribe of lilies, Solomon in all his glory exceeded not the 
beauty of those produced in this unheeded wilderness." The only white man who 
ever yet crossed these lonely lands from shore to shore was a Scotchman named 
Cormack, who walked from Trinity Bay to St. George's Bay, in 1822. He was ac- 
companied by a Micmac Indian, and the trip took several weeks. The maps of 
Newfoundland cover this vast unexplored region with conjectural mountains and 
hypothetical lakes. The British Aduiiralty chart of Newfoundland (Southern Por- 
tion) omits most of these, but gives minute and valuable topographical outlines of 
the lakes and hills N. of the Bay of Despair, the Red-Indian Pond, and River of Ex- 
ploits, and the region of the Grand Pond and Deer Pond, with their approaches. 

Cape St. George thrusts a huge line of precipices into the sea, and 5 AI. 
beyond is Red Island, surrounded by dark red cliffs. 25 M. farther to the 
N. E. is the entrance to Port au Fort, a great double harbor of noble 
capacity. It is separated from St. George's Bay by an isthmus but 1 M. 
wide, at the W. base of the great Table Mt. 

The * Bay of Islands affords some of the finest scenery in the Province, 
and is sheltered by several small but lofty islands. The soil along the 
shores is said to be deep and productive, and adapted to raising grain and 
produce. Limestone, gypsum, and fine marble are found here in large 
quantities. There are about 1,000 inhabitants about the bay, most of 
whom are engaged in the herring-fishery. 



HUMBER RIVER. Route 61. 219 

At the head of the bay is the mouth of the HnmTber River, the largest river 
iu Newfoundland. In the last 18 M. of its course it is known as the Humber Sound, 
and is 1 -2 M. wide and 50-60 fathoms deep, with lofty and rugged hills on either 
side. Great quantities of timber are found on these shores, and the trout and sal- 
mon fisheries are of considerable value. The river tlows into the head of the sound 
in a narrow and swift current, and is ascended by boats to the Deer Pond. Occa- 
sion al cabins and clearings are seen along the shores, inhabited by bold and hardy 
pioneers. 3 ML. above the head of the sound there is a rapid 1 M. long, up which 
boats are drawn by lines. Here " the scenery is highly striking and picturesque, — 
lofty cliffs of pure white limestone rising abruptly out of the woods to a height of 
3 -400 ft, and being themselves clothed with thick wood round their sides and 
over their summits." Above the rapids the river traverses a valley 2 M. wide, filled 
with birch-groves and hemmed in by high hills. The stream is broad and shallow 
for 6 M. above the rapids, where another series of rapids is met, above which are the 
broad waters of *I>eer Pond, 2-3 M. wide and 15 M. long. Here is the undis- 
turbed home of deer and smaller game, loons, gulls, and kingfishers. A few Micuiac 
Indians still visit these solitudes, and their wigwams are seen on the low savannas 
of the shore. (See also pages 211 and 218) 

" Beyond the forest-covered hills which surround it are lakes as beautiful, and 
larger than Lake George, the cold clear waters of which flow to the bay under the 
name of the river Humber. It has a valley like Wyoming, and more romantic 
scenery than the Susquehanna. The Bay of Islands is also a bay of streams and in- 
lets, an endless labyrinth of cliffs and woods and waters, where the summer voyager 
would delight to wander, and which is worth a volume sparkling with pictures." 

Bonne Bay is 23 M. N. E. of the Bay of Islands, and is a favorite resort 
of American and Provincial fishermen. Great quantities of herrhig are 
caught in this vicinity. The mountains of the coast-range closely ap- 
proach the sea, forming a bold and striking prospect ; and the rivers which 
empty into the bay may be followed to the vicinity of the Long Range. 

The coast to the N. N. W. for nearly 70 M. is straight, with the slight 
indentations of the Bay of St. Paul and Cow Bay. The Bay of Ingorna- 
choix has comparatively low and level shores, with two excellent har- 
bors. On its N. point (Point Rich) is a lighthouse containing a white 
flashing-light which is visible for 18 M. ; and 2 M. E. is the fishing-station 
oi Port au Choix, whence considerable quantities of codfish and herring 
are exported. The Bay of St. John is dotted with islands, and receives 
the River of Castors, flowing from an unknown point in the interior, and 
abounding in salmon. 

" What a region for romantic excursions ! Yonder are wooded mountains with a 
sleepy atmosphere, and attractive vales, and a fine river, the River Castor, flowing 
from a country almost unexplored ; and here are green isles spotting the' sea, — the 
islands of St. John. Behind them is an expanse of water, alive with fish and fowl, 
the extremes of which are lost in the deep, untroubled wilderness. A month would 
not suffice to find out and enjoy its manifold and picturesque beauties, through 
which wind the deserted trails of the Red Indians, now extinct or banished." 

The Bay of St. John is separated by a narrow isthmus from St. Mar- 
garet's Bay (on the N.), on which are the stations oi Nexo Ferolle and Old 
Ferolle. Beyond the Bays of St. Genevieve and St. Barbe, with their few 
score of inhabitants, is Flower Cove, containing a small hamlet and an 
Episcopal church. The great sealing-grounds of the N. shore are next 
traversed; and the adjacent coast loses its mountainous character, and 
sinks into wide plains covered with grass and wild grain. 



220 Route 61. STRAIT OF BELLE ISLE. 

The Strait of Belle Isle. 

The Strait of Belle Isle is now entered, and on the N. is the lofty and 
barren shore of Labrador (or, if it be night, the fixed light on Point 
Amour). As Green Island is passed, the Red Cliffs, on the Labrador shore, 
are seen at about 10 M. distance. The low limestone cliffs of the New- 
foundland shore are now followed to the N. E., and at 30 M. beyond Green 
Island, Cape Norman is reached, with its revolving light upheld on the 
bleak dreariness of the spray-swept hill. This cape is the most northerly 
point of Newfoundland. 

The Sacred Islands are 12 M. S. E. by E. from Cape Norman, and soon 
after passing them the hamlet of Quirpon is approached. This place is 
situated on Quirpon Island, 4 degrees N. of St. John's, and is devoted to 
the sealing business. It has an Episcopal church and cemetery. Multi- 
tudes of seals are caught off" this point, in the great current which sets 
from the remote N. into the Strait of Belle Isle. Hundreds of icebergs 
may sometimes be seen hence, moving in stately procession up the sti'ait. 
In front of Quirpon are the cold highlands of Jaques-Cartier Island. Cape 
Bauld is the N. point of the island of Quirpon, and the most northerly 
point of the Province. 

14 M. N. of Cape Bauld, and midway to the Labrador shore, is Belle Isle, in the 

entrance of the strait. It is 9>^ M. long and 3 M. broad, and is utterly barren and 
unprofitable. On its S. point is a lonely lighthouse, 470 ft. above the sea, sustuiu- 
ing a fixed white light which is visible for 28 M. During the dense and blinding 
snow-storms that often sweep over the strait, a cannon i« fired at regular intervals ; 
and large deposits of provisions are kept here for the use of shipwrecked mariners. 
Between Dec. 15 and April 1 there is no light exhibited, for the^e northern seas are 
then deserted, save by a few daring seal-hunters. There is but one point where the 
island can be approached, which is l)^ M. from the lighthouse, and here the stores 
are landed. There is not a tree or even a bush on the island, and coal is imported 
from Quebec to warm the house of the keeper, — who, though visited but twice a 
year, is happy and contented. The path from the landing is cut through the moss- 
covered rock, and leads up a long and steep ascent. 

In the year 1527 "a Canon of St. Paul in London, which was a great mathemati- 
cian, and a man indued with wealth," sailed for the New World with two ships, 
which were fitted out by King Henry VIII. After they had gone to the westward 
for many days, and had passed " great Hands of Ice," they reached " the mayne 
land, all wilderuesse and mountaines and woodes, and no naturall ground but all 
mosse, and no habitation nor no people in these parts." They entered the Strait of 
Belle Isle, and then " there arose a great and a maruailous great storme, and much 
foul weather," during which the ships were separated. The captain of the Manj of 
Guilford wrote home concerning his consort-ship : " I trust in Almightie Jesu to hears 
good newes of her"; but no tidings ever came, and she was probably lost in the 
strait, with all on board. 

The islands of Belle Isle and Quirpon were called the Isles of Demons in the 
remiote past, and the ancient maps represent them as covered with " devils ram- 
pant, with wings, horns, and tails." They were said to be fascinating but malicious, 
and Andre Thevet exorcised them from a band of stricken Indians by repeating a 
part of the Gospel of St. John. The mariners feared to land on these haunted 
shores, and '' when tliey passed this way, they heard in the air, on the tops and 
about the masts, a great chtmor of men's voices, confused and inarticulate, such as 
you may hear from the crowd at a fair or market-place ; whereupon they well knew 
that the Isle of Demons was not far off." The brave but superstitious Normans 
dared not land on the Labrador without the crucifix in hand, believing that those 
gloomy shores were guarded by great and terrible griffins. These quaint legends 



STRAIT OF BELLE ISLE. Route 61. 221 

undoubtedly had a good foundation. In July, 1873, the coasts of the Strait of Belle 
Isle were ravaged by bands of immense wolves, who devoured several human beings 
and besieged the settlements for weeks. 

An ancient MS. of 1586 relates a curious legend of Belle Isle. Among the com- 
pany on the fleet which was conducted through the Straits to Quebec in 1542, were 
the Lady Marguerite, niece of the Viceroy of New France, and her lover. Their 
conduct was such as to have "scandalized the fleet, and when they renched the Isle 
of Demons, Roberval, enraged at her shameles.sness, put her on shore, with her old 
nurse. The lover leaped from the ship and joined the women, and the fleet sailed 
away. Then the demons and the hosts of hell began their assaults on the forsaken 
trio, tearing about their hut at night, menacing them on the shore, and assaulting 
them in the foi'est. But the penitent sinners were guarded by invisible bands of 
saints, and kept from peril. After many months, wearied by these fiendish assaults, 
the lover died, and was soon followed by the nurse and the child. Long thereafter 
lived Marguerite alone, until finally a fishing-vessel ran in warily toward the smoke 
of her fire, and rescued her, after two years of life among demons. 

From Cape Bauld the coast runs S. by the French sealing-stations of 
Griguet, St. Lunaire, Braha, and St. Anthony, to the deep indentation of 
Hare Bay, which is 18 M. long and 6 M. wide. A short distance to the S. 
is the fine harbor of Croque, a favorite resort for the French fleets and a 
coaling-station for the steamers. The back country is dismal to the last 
degree. 

To the S. E. are the large islands of Groais (7 X 3^ M. in area)and Belle Isle (9x6 
M.). Running now to the S. W. by Cape Rouge and Botitot, Conche Harbor is seen 
on the starboard bow, and Canada. Bay is opened on the W. This great bay is 
12 M. long, and is entered through an intricate passage called the Narrows beyond 
which it widens into a safe and capacious basin, 'i'he shores are sohtary' and de- 
serted, and far inland are seen the great hill-ranges cahed The Clouds. 7 M. to the 
S. W. is the entrance to Hooping Harbor, and 5 M. farther S. is Fourchette 12 M. 
beyond which is Great Harbor Deep, a long and narrow estuary with such a depth 
of water that vessels cannot anchor in it. This is at the W. entrance of White 
Bay, and is 16 M. from Partridge Point, the E. entrance. 

White Bay is a fine sheet of water 45 M. long and 10-15 M. wide. It is very 
deep, and has uo islands except such as are close in shore. The fisheries are car- 
ried on here to a considerable extent, and at Cat Cove, Jackson's Arm Chouse 
Brook, Wiseman's Cove, Seal Gove, and Lobster Harbor are small settlements of 
resident fishermen. Chouse Brook is situated amid noble scenery near the head 
of the bay, 60 M. by boat from La Scie. On the highlands to the W and S of 
U'hite Bay are the haunts of the deer, which are usually entered from Hall's Bay or 
Green Bay. 

3 M. S. E. of Partridge Point is La Fleur de Lis harbor, so named from 
the simulation of the royal flower by a group of three hills near its head. 
Running thence to the E., the entrances of Little Bay and Ming's Bight 
open on the starboard side, and on the port bow are the St. Barbe, or Horse 
Islands. About 20 M. from La Fleur de Lis is La Scie, the last settle 
ment on the French Shore, with its three resident families. A road leads S. 
7 M. fi-om this point to Shoe Cove, on the Bay of Notre Dame (see page 
211); and 5 M. E. of La Scie is * Cape St. John, the boundary of the 
French Shore on the Atlantic. 

" The Cape is in fuh view, a promontory of shaggy precipices, suggestive of all the 
fiends of Pandemonium, rather than the lovely Apostle whose name has been gib- 
beted on the black and dismal crags As we bear down toward the Cape, we 

pass Gull Isle, a mere pile of naked rocks dehcately wreathed with lace-like mists. 
Imagine the last hundred feet of Conway Peak, the very finest of the New-Hampshire 
mountain-tops, pricking above the waves, and you wiU see this little outpost and 



222 Route 61. ■ CAPE ST. JOHN. 

breakwater of Cape St. John." (Noble.) The Cape presents by far the grandest 
scenery on the E. coast of Newfoundland, and is an unbroken wall of black rock, 
4-600 ft. high and 5 M. long, against whose immediate base the deep sea sweeps. 



* ' Of the landes of Labrador and Baccalaos, lying West and North-west from 
Englande, and bei^ge parte of the firme lande of the AVest Indies. 

" Many haue traualyed to search the coast of the lande of Laborador, as well to 
the intente to knowe howe farre or whyther it reachethe, as also whether there bee 
any passage by sea throughe the same into the Sea of Sur and the Islandts of Maiuca, 
which are under the Equinoctiall hue : thinkynge that the waye thy ther shulde greatly 
bee shortened by this vyage. The Spanyardes, as to whose ryght the sayde islandes of 
spices perteyne, dyd fyrst seeke to fynde the same by this way. The Portiigales 
also hauynge the trade of spices in theyr handes, dyd trauayle to fynde the same : 
although hetherto neyther anye suche pas-sage is founde or the ende of that lande. 
In the yeare a thousande and fine hundredth, Gaspar Cortesreales made a vyage 

thyther with two carauelles ; but found not the streyght or passage he sought 

He greatly maruayled to beholde the houge quantitie of snowe and ise. For the 
sea is there frosen excedyngly. Thinhabitauntes are men of good corporature, al- 
though tawny like the Indiess, and laborious. They paynte theyr bodyes, and weare 
braselettes and hoopes of syluer and copper. Theyr apparel is made of the skynnes 
of marternes and dyvers other beastes, whiche they weare with the heare inwarde in 
wynter, and outwarde in soommer. This apparell they gyrde to theyr bod3es with 
gyrdels made of cotton or the synewes of fysshes and beastes. They eate fysshe 
more than any otlier thynge, and especially salmons, althoughe they have foules 
and frute. They make theyr houses of timber, whereof they haue great plentie : 
and in the steade of tyles, couer them with the skynnes of fysshes and beastes. It 
is said also that there are grifes in this land : and that the beares and many other 
beastes and foules are white. To this and the islandesaboute the same, the Biitons 
are accustomed to resorte : as men of nature agreeable vnto them, and born vuder 
the same altitude and temperature. The Norways al.-o sa} ltd thyther with the 
pylot cauled John Seoluo: and the Englyshe men with Sebastian Cabot. 

" The coaste of the lande of Baccalaos is a greate tracte, and the altitude thereof 
is xlviii degrees and a halfe. Sebastian Cabot was the fyrst that browght any knowl- 
eage of this land. For being in Englande in the dayes of Kyng Henry the Seuenth, 
hefurnyshed two shippes at his owne charges or (as some say) at the kynges, whom 
he persuaded that a passage might bee found to Cathay by the North Seas, and that 
spices myght bee browght from thense soner by that way, then by the vyage the 
Portugales vse by the Sea of Sur. He went also to knowe what maner of landes 
those Indies were to inhabite. He had withe hym 300 men, and directed his course 
by the tracte of islande uppon the Cape of Laborador at Iviii degrees : afiirn.ynge 
that in the monethe of July there was such could and heapes of ise that he durst 
passe no further : also that the dayes were very longe, and in maner withowt nyght, 
and the nyghtes very cleare. Certeyne it is, that at the Ix degrees, the longest day 
is of xviii houres. But consyderynge the coulde and the straungeness of the un- 
knowne lande, he turned his course from thense to the West, folowynge the coast 
of the land of Baccalaos vnto the xxxviii degrees, from whense he returned to Eng- 
lande. To conclude, the Brytons and Danes have sayled to the Baccalaos ; aud 
Jacques Cartier, a Frenchman, was there twyse with three galeons. 

" Of these lands Jacobus Bastaldus wryteth thus : ' The Newe land of Baccalaos 
is a coulde region, whose inhabytauntes are idolatours, and praye to the soone and 
moone and dyvers idoles. They are whyte people, and very rustical. For they eate 
flesshe and fysshe and all other thynges rawe. Sumtymes also they eate mans 
fiesshe priuilye, so that theyr Caciqui have no knowleage thereof. The apparell of 
both the men and women is made of beares skynnes, although they have sables and 
marternes, not greatly esteemed because they are lyttle. Some of them go naked in 

soomer, and weare apparell only in wynter Northwarde from the region of 

Baccalaos is the land of Laborador, all full of mountaynes and great woodes, in whiche 
are manye beares and wylde boares. Thinhabitauntes are idolatoures and warlike 
people, apparelled as are they of Baccalaos. In all this newe lande is neyther citie 
or castell, but they lyve in companies lyke heardes of beastes.' " 



LABEADOE 



Is the great peninsular portion of North America which lies to the N. and 
N. W. of Newfoundland, and is limited by the Gulf of St. Lawrence, the 
ocean, and Hudson's Bay. It extends from about 50° N. latitude to 60"^, 
and the climate is extremely rigorous, the mean temperature at Nain 
being 32" 6'. The land is covered with low mountains and barren plateaus, 
on which are vast plains of moss interspersed with rocks and bowlders. 
There are no forests, and the inland region is dotted with lakes and 
swamps. There are reindeer, bears, foxes, wolves, and smaller game; 
but their number is small and decreasing. The rivers and lakes swarm 
with fish, and the whole coast is famous for its valuable fishei-ies of cod 
and salmon. At least 1,000 decked vessels are engaged in the Labra- 
dor fisheries, and other fleets are devoted to the pursuit of seals. The 
commercial establishments here are connected with the great firms of 
England and the Channel Islands. The Esquimaux population is steadily 
dwindling away, and probably consists of 4,000 souls. 

"The coast of Labrador is the edge of a vast solitude of rocky hills, split and 
blasted by the frosts, and beaten by the waves of the Atlantic, for unknown ages. 
Every form into which rocks can be washed and broken is visible along its almost 
interminable shores. A grand headland, yellow, brown, and black, in its horrid 
nakedness, is ever in sight, one to the north of you, one to the south. Here and there 
upon them are stripes and patches of pale green, — mosses, lean grasses, and dwarf 
shrubbery. Occasionally, miles of precipice front the sea, in which the fency may 
roughly shape all the structures of human art, —castles, palaces, and temples. Im- 
agine an entire side of Broadway piled up solidly, one, two, three hundred feet in 
height, often more, and exposed to the charge of the great Atlantic rollers, rush- 
ing into the churches, halls, and spacious buildings, thundering through the door- 
ways, dashing in at the windows, sweeping up the lofty fronts, twisting the very 
cornices with silvery spray, falling back in bright green scrolls and cascades of sil- 
very foam ; and yet, all this imagined, can never reach the sentiment of these 
precipices. More frequent than headlands and perpendicular sea-fronts are the 
sea-slopes, often bald, tame, and wearisome to the eye, now and then the perfection 
of all that is picturesque and rough, — a precipice gone to pieces, its softer por- 
tions dissolved down to its roots, its flinty bones left standing, a savage scene that 

scares away all thoughts of order and design in nature This is the rosy time 

of Labrador (July). The blue interior hilJs, and the stony vales that wind up 
among them from the sea, have a summer-liice and pleasant air. I find myself 
peopling these regions, and dotting their hills, valleys, and wild shores with human 
habitations. A second thought — and a mournful one it is — tells me that no men 
toil in the fields away there ; no women keep the house off there ; there no children 
play by the brooks or shout around the country school-house ; no bees come home 
to the hive ; no smoke curls from the farm-house chimney ; no orchard blooms ; 
no bleating sheep fleck the mountain-sides with whiteness, and no heifer lows in 
the twilight. There is nobody there j there never was but a miserable and scat- 



224 Route 62. BATTLE HARBOR. 

tered few, and there never will be. It is a great and terrible wilderness of a thou- 
sand miles, and lonesome to the very wild animajs and birds. Left to the still vis- 
itation of the light from the sun, moon, and stars, and the auroral fires, it is only 
fit to look upon and then be given over to its primeval solitariness. But for the 
living things of its waters, — the cod, the salmon, and the seal, — which bring thou- 
sands of adventurous fishermen and traders to its bleak shores, Labrador would be 
as desolate as Greenland. 

" For a few days the woolly flocks of New England would thrive in Labrador. 
During these few days there are thousands of her fair daughters who would love to 
tend them. I prophesy the time is coming when the invalid and tourist from the 
States will be often found spending the brief but lovely summer here, notwithstand- 
ing its ruggedness and desolation." (Rev. L. L. Noble.) 

" Wild are the waves which lash the reefs along St. George's bank ; 
Cold on the coast of Labrador the fog lies white and dauk ; 
Through storm, and wave, and blinding mist, stout are the hearts which man 
The fishing-smacks of Marblehead, the sea-boats of Cape Ann. 

" The cold north light and wintry sun glare on their icy forms. 

Bent grimly o'er their sti-aining lines, or wrestling with the storms ; 
Free as the winds they drive before, rough as the waves they roam, 
They laugh to scorn the slaver's threat against their rocky home." 

John G. Whittier. 

62. The Atlantic Coast of Labrador, to the Moravian Mis- 
sions and Greenland. 

The mail-steamer Hercules leaves Battle Harbor fortnightly during the sum- 
mer. 

Battle Harbor is a sheltered roadstead between the Battle Islands and 
Great Caribou Island, ^ M. long and quite narrow. It is a great resort for 
fishermen, whose vessels crowd the harbor and are moored to the bold 
rocky shores. Small houses and stages occupy every point along the 
sides of the roadstead, and the place is very lively during the fishing sea- 
son. On the W. is Great Caribou Island, which is 9 M. around, and the 
steep-shored S. E. Battle Island is the easternmost land of the Labrador 
coast. The water is of great depth in this vicinity, and is noted for its 
wonderful ground-swell, which sometimes sweeps into St. Lewis Sound in 
Ihies of immense waves during the calmest days of autumn, dashing high 
over the islets and ledges. An Episcopal church and cemetery were con- 
secrated here by Bishop Field in 1850, and the ne])hew of Wordsworth 
(the poet) was for some years its rector. The first Esquimaux convert 
was baptized in 1857. 

Fox Harbor is 3 - 4 hours' sail from Battle Island, across St. Lewis 
Sound, and is an Esquimaux village v/ith igloes, kayaks, and other curious 
things pertaining to this unique people There is a wharf, projecting into 
the nai-row hai-bor( which resembles a mountain-lake); and the houses are 
clustered about a humble little Episcopal church. 

" Caribou Island fronts to the N. on the bay 5 -6 M ,1 should think, and is 
a rugged mountain-pile of dark grav rock, rounded in its upper masses, and slashed 
along its shores with abrupt chasms. It drops short off, at its eastern extremity, 
into a narrow gulf of deep water. This is Battle Harbor. The billowy pile of igneous 
rock, perhaps 250 ft high, lying between this quiet water and the broad Atlantic, ia 
Battle Island, and the site of the town At this moment (July) the rocky isle, 



SANDWICH BAY. Route 62. 225 

bombarded by the ocean, and flayed by the sword of fh« hio.f f .^ . 
year, is a little paradise of beauty. There are fipS= L ^'* ^°'' """"^^^ ^° ^^e 
neath the foot, with beds of such delicSe flowerl «M.°''''fJ '^"P"' *^^* '^^^^ be- 
never seen such fairy loveliness as Tfinrl i!! ?^-^ ?®^'^''°' ''^^^ I liave 

seen.s to have beeu^playSg a siiLrSLd rZ? *'''? ^'tf ^"^"'' ^^''^ ^^t'^^e 
and spotted with blood-red stainrrarnl? .k ^'',*^ ^ ''^^^^ "^o^^''^'". ankle-deep 

hollows. AV-onderfuUo So d ' flowerf nh^k'lT' f'^.^ ^^"/.' ^=^^*^^ ^^^ cradle-lik? 
countless as dew-drops, and breatheTut m on tu!^""^'^^- ^f °'^' """"^^ ^""^ ^lue, are 
.... Little gorges and'chaLs, oveXno^wMin.Sn '''' "'■"■ °^^°^'' '° ^P^nWike. 
fmm the sunamits down to meet the waves aSdarJ^^^^^^^ ""Xrtl' ^^'""^ gracefully 
them, with all bloom and sweetness, a kLrofwUd greenCse; '' ""' '""^ '"^ ^^^'"^ 

_ The course is laid from Battle Harbor N. across St. Lewis Sound ^-hich 
. 4 M wKle and 10 M. deep (to Fly Island, beyond which is th st L t 
Kner, which contans myriads of salmnn^ Po..- ^u i , ^ ^>- ^^\ms 
hills (500 ft. hio-h) of Cane St WiiT . ^"^ ^' ^'"'^ ^"^ ^"^^^^ 

but secure have of 9. l ^'^^'\^^'" ^'^^^^e^' ^^o^i reaches the small 
Duc secure haven of Spear Harbor, where a short ston is mndp Ti,n ,. ^ 

port is at S. Francis Ha.ior, which is on Gral^hy^I L i„ ihe est" .^ 
of the deep and navigable Alexis Eiver. An Episcopal church is beat d 

tape St. Alichael is next seen on fhp W n t\t „i % ^ ^ 

wi..>its»„„„tai„o„s p,.o,n„nt„ "shri-; „"isti:fXfirB:^ 
yond the dark and rngged Square Island is°the mail-por „fl,l7AW 
Crossmg now the mouth of St. Michael's Bav, and passing Cape Bluff 
(wh,ch may be seen for 60 M. at sea), the st;amer ,Lt stops 'between 
Fe, «,« Istand and the gloomy cliffs beyond. Running next to the N 
on tl,e outs.de of a great archipelago, tlie highlands of Partridge Bay are 
Slowly passed, j^ "^'^ . 

^ The Seal Islands are 24 M. N. E. of Cape St. Michael, and 18 M. beyond 
IS Spotted Island, distinguished by several white spots on its lofty dark 
ciitts. To the E. is the great Island of Ponds, near which is Batteau Har- 
bor a ma.l-port at which a call is made. The next station is at Indian 
uckie, which IS a narrow roadstead between Indian Island and the high- 
lands of Mulgrave Land. Stopping next at S. E. Cove, the course is kid 
irom thence to Indian Harbor, on the W. side of Huntington Island This 
island IS 7 M. long, and shelters the entrance to Saiidwicli Bay (the E.qui- 
n.au^ NeisluMe), which is 6-9 M. wide and 54 M. deep, with 13-40 
fathoms of water. There are many picturesque islands in this bav, and on 
the xN[ shore are the Mealy Mts., reaching an altitude of 1,482 ft.' On the 
r„;, . T^ t^ '"'^ ^''' ^'""^''^ ^"^^' ^^'^"^ «^I'^«"; -"d East River 

numberlf \ '^"" ''^' ^'"'"^ '^"^ ^ ^^^^ '^^^ -here immense 

numbers of salmon, trout, and pike may be found. 4 M. from the mouth 
ot East River is the small settlement o{ Paradise. 

foo''tLKThVs'*'-KftL';TidThinl^^ ^-* -^ "^ b°^d 

wooded With spruce £ ^t^sl^^l^ ^dSse*? 1- ^^^^^^^^^ 

10* ^ 



226 Route 62. MORAVIAN MISSIONS. 

of bold blufl^ whose shadows seemed ahnost to meet midway in the narrow channel 
that separated them. Through this gi-and gloomy portal there was an unbroken 
vista for miles, until the channel made an abrupt turn that hid the water from 
view ; but the great gorge continued on beyond till it was lost in blue shadow." 
On the N. shore of the Narrows is the Hudson's Bay Company's post of Kigolette, 
occiipying the site of an older French tradiug-stivtion. At the head of the Narrows 
is Melville Lake, a great iulanti sea, all along whose S. shore are the weird and won- 
derful volcanic peaks of the lofty Mealy Mountains. 120 M. S. W. of Rigolette, by 
this route, is the H. B. Company's post of Norwest, situated a little way up the 
N. W. Kiver, near great spruce forests. This is the cuief trading-post of the Moun- 
taineers, a tribe of the great Cree nation of the West, and a tall, graceful, and spir- 
ited people. In 1S40 they first opened communication with the whites. It was this 
tribe, which, issuing from the interior highlands in resistless forays, nearly exter- 
minated the Esquimaux of the coast. 800 M. from Fort Norwest is Fort Nascopie, 
situated on the Heights of Land, f:\r in the dark and solitary interior. In that vicin- 
ity ai'e the Grand Falls, which the voya^eurs claim are 1.000 ft. high, but Factor 
M'Lean says are 400 ft. high, — and below them the broad river flashes down through 
a canon 300 ft. deep, for over 30 M. 300 M. from Fort Nascopie are the shores of 
Ungiiva Bay. (The Esquimaux-Bay district is well described in an article by Charles 
Hallock, Harper's Magazine, Vol. XXII.) 



The Moravians state that the Esquimaux are a proud and enterprising people, low 
in stature, with coarse features, small hands and feet, and black wiry hair. The 
men are expert in fishing, catching seals, and managing the light and graceful boat 
called the kaijak, which outrides the rudest surges of the sea ; while the women are 
skilful in making garments from skins. Agriculture is impossible, because the 
country is covered with snow and ice for a great part of the year. Thej' call them- 
selves Innuits ("men"), the term Esquimaux (meaning "eaters of raw flesh") 
being applied to them by the hostile tribes to the W. On the 500 M. of the Atlantic 
coast of Labrador there are about 1,000 of these people, most of whom have been 
converted by the Moravians. They live about tlie missions in winter, and assemble 
from the remotest points to celebrate the mysteries, of the Passiou ^\'eek in the 
churches. They were heathens and demon-worshippers until 1770, when the Mora- 
vian Brethren occupied the coast under permission of the British Crown. They wei*e 
formerly much more numerous, but have been reduced by long wars with the 
Mountaineers of the interior and by the ravages of the small-pox. The practice of 
polygamy has ceased amoug the tribes, and their marriages are celebrated by the 
Moravian ritual. The missionaries do considerable trading with the Indians, and 
keep magazines of provisions at their villages, from which the natives are freely fed 
during seasons of famine. At each station are a church, a store, a mission-house, 
and shops and warm huts for the converted and civilized Esquimaux, who are fast 
learning the mechanic arts. The Moravian mission-ship makes a yearly visit to the 
Labrador station, replenishing the supplies and carrying away cargoes of furs. 

Mopedale is 300 M. N. W. of the Strait of Belle Isie, and is one of the 
chief Moravian missions on the Labrador coast. It was founded in 1782 by the en- 
voys of the cliurch, and has grown to be a centre of civilizing influences on this 
dreary coast. Its last statistics claim for it 35 houses, with 40 families and 248 per- 
sons ; 49 boats and 49 kayaks ; and a church containing 74 communicants and 85 
baptized children. The mean annual temperature here is 27° 82'. The church is a 
neat plain building, where the men and women occupy opposite sides, and German 
hymns are sung to the accompaniment of the violin. 

>iai]i is about 80 M. N. W. of Ilopedale, and has about 300 inhabitants, of whom 
95 are communicants and 94 are baptized children. It was founded by three Mora- 
vians iu 1771, and occupies a beautiful position, fiicing the ocean from the bottom 
of a narrow haven. It is in 57° N. latitude (same latitude as the Hebrides), and the 
thermometer sometimes marks 75° in summer, while spirits freeze iu the intense cold 
of winter. Okkak is about 120 M. N. W. of Nain, towards Hudson Strait, and is a 
very successthl mission which dates from 1776. The station of Hebron is stUl farther 
up the coast, and has about 300 inhabitants. 

Far away to the N. E., across the broad openings of Davis Sti'ait, is 
Cape Desolation, in Greenland, near the settlements of JuUamhaab. 



CHATEAU BAY. Route 63. 227 

63. The Labrador Coast of the Strait of Belle Isle. 

At Battle Harbor the Northern Coastal steamer connects with the 
Labrador mail-boat, which proceeds S. W. across the mouth of St Charles 
Channel, and touches at Cape Charles, or Si. Charles Harbor, enterin<r be 
tween Fishflake and Blackbill Islands. This harbor is deep a-nd seaire 
(though small), and is a favorite resort for the fishermen. As the steamer 
passes the Cape, the round hill of St. Charles may be seen about 1 M 
inland, and is noticeable as the loftiest highland in this district. Niger 
Sound and the Camp Islands (250-300 ft. high) are next passed and a 
landmg is made at CMmney Tickle. 1^ M. S. W. of the Camp Islands is 
Torrent Point, beyond which the vessel passes Table Head, a very pic- 
turesque headland, well isolated, and with a level top and precipitous 
sides. It is 200 ft. high, and is chiefly composed of symmetrical columns 
ot basalt. To the S. are the barren rocks of the Peterel Isles and St 
Peter's Isles, giving shelter to St. Peter's Bay. In the S. E. may be =een 
the dim lines of the distant coast of Belle Isle. On the N. is^he bold 
promontory of Sandwich Head. The deep and narrow Chateau Bay now 
opens to the N. W., guarded by the cliffs of York Point (I.) and Chateau 
Point (on Castle Island, to the r.), and the steamer ascends its tranquil 
sheet Withm .s the noble fiord of Temple Bay, 5 M. long, and lined by 
lofty highlands, approached through the Temple Pass. On the r is the 
ridge of the High Beacon (959 ft.). Chateau is a small permanent tillage, 
with a church and a large area offish-stages. In the autumn and winter 
Its inhabitants retire into the back country, for the sake of the fuel which 
IS afforded by the distant forests. The port and harbor are named for the 
remadcable rocks at the entrance. There are fine trou ting-streams up 
lemple Bay; and vast numbers of curlews visit the islands in Au-ust 



228 Route 63. STRAIT OF BELLE ISLE. 

After emerging from Chateau Bay, the course is laid around York 
Point, and the Strait of Belle Isle is entered (with Belle Isle itself 18 
M. E. ). The Labrador coast is now followed for about 25 M., with the 
stern front of its frowning cliffs slightly indented by the insecure havens 
of Wreck, Barge, and Greenish Bays. Saddle Island is now seen, w'th 
its two rounded hills, and the steamer glides into Red Bay, an excellent 
refuge in whose inner harbor vessels sometimes winter. Large forests are 
seen at the head of the water, and scattering lines of huts and stages show 
evidences of the occupation of the hardy northern fishermen. Starting 
once more on the voyage to the S. W., at 7 M. from Red Bay are seen the 
Little St. Modeste Islands, sheltering Black Bay, beyond which Cape 
Diable is passed, and Diable Bay (4 M. W. S. W. of Black Bay). 3 M. 
farther to the W. the steamer enters Lovi) Bay, rounding high red cliffs, 
and touches at the fishing-establishment and hamlet of Lance-au-Lotip 
(which views the Newfoundland coast from Point Ferolle to Cape Noi'- 
man). Field-ice is sometimes seen off this shore in the month of June. 
Capt. Bayfield saw 200 icebergs in the strait in August. 

Tlie course is now laid to the S. W. for 3-4 M., to round Point Amour, 
which is at the narrowest part of the strait, and has a fixed light, 155 ft. 
high, and visible for 18 M. From the Red Cliffs, on the E. of Loup Bay, 
it is but 11 M. S. S. E. to the coast of Newfoundland. 

" The Battery, as sailors call it, is a wall of red sandstone, 2-3 M. in extent, with 
horizontal lines extending from one extreme to the other, and perpendicular fissures 
resembling embrasures and gateways. Swelling out with grand proportions toward 
the sea, it has a most military and picturesque appearance. At one point. of this 
huge citadel of solitude there is the resemblance of a giant portal, with stupendous 
piers 200 ft. or more in elevation. They are much broken by the yearly assaults of 
the frost, and the eye darts up the ruddy ruins in surprise. If there was anything 
to defend, here is a Gibraltar at hand, with comparatively small labor, whose guns 
could nearly cross the strait. Beneath its precipitous cliffs the debris slopes like 
a glacis to the beach, with both smooth and broken surfaces, and all very hand- 
somely decorated with rank herbage The red sandstone shore is exceedingly 

picturesque. It has a right royal presence along the deep. Lofty semicircular 
promontories descend in regular terraces nearly down, then cweep out gracefully 
with an ample lap to the margin. No art could produce better effect. The long 
terraced galleries are touched with a tender green, and the well-hollowed vales, now 
and then occurring, and ascending to the distant horizon between ranks of rounded 
hills, look green and pasture-like Among the very pretty and refreshing fea- 
tures of the coast are its brooks, seen occasionally falling over the rocks in white 
cascades. Harbors are passed now and then, with small fishing-fleets and dwell- 
ings." (Noble.) 

The steamer enters Forteau Bay, and runs across to the W. shore, where 
are the white houses of a prosperous fishing-establishment, with an Epis- 
copal church and rectory. About the village are seen large Esquimaux 
.dogs, homely, powerful, and intelligent. This bay is the best in the strait, 
and is much frequented by the French fishermen, for whose convenience 
one of the Jersey companies has established a station here. On the same 
side of the harbor a fine cascade (100 ft. high) is seen pouring over the 
cliffs, and the fresh-water stream which empties at the head of the bay 
contains large numbers of salmon. 



BLANC SABLON. Route 64. 229 

7 M. beyond Forteau, "Wood Island is passed, and the harbor of Blanc 
Sablon is entered. ,To the W. are Bradore Bay and Bonne Esperance Bay, 
with their trading-stations; and a few miles to the N. W. are the Bradore 
Hills, several rounded summits, of which the chief is 1,264 ft. high. 

Blanc Sablon is on the border-line between the sections of Labrador 
which belong, the one to the Province of Quebec, the other to Newfound- 
land. It is named from the white sands which are brought down the 
river at the head of the h^j. Several of the great fishmg-compaiiies of 
the Isle of Jerse}' have stations here, and the harbor is much visited in 
summer. Blanc Sablon is at the W. entrance to the Strait of Belle Isle, 
and it is but 21 M. from the Isle-a-Bois (at the mouth of the bay) to the 
Newfoundland shore. The village is surrounded by a line of remarkable 
terraced hills. On Greenly Island, just outside of the harbor, 32 sail of 
fishing-vessels were lost on the night of July 2, 1856. 

Following the trend of the N. coast of the Gulf of St. Lawrence, Blanc 
Sablon is distant from Esquimaux Bay 20 M., from Quebec nearly 800 M., 
and (in a straight line) 218 M. from Anticosti (see Route 65). 

From Blanc Sablon the steamer retraces her course through the Strait 
of Belle Isle to Battle Harbor. 

64. The Labrador Coast of the Gulf of St. Lawrence.— The 

Mingan Islands, 

The ports along this coast may be reached by the American fishing-schooners, 
from Gloucester, although there can be no certainty when or where they ■will touch. 
Boats may be hired at Blanc Sablon to convej^ passengers to the W. 

Quebec to the Moisic River. 

The steamer Margaretta Stevenson leaves Quebec for the Moisic River everj' week, 
and may be hired to call at intermediate ports. The passage occupies 80-40 hours, 
and the cabin-fare is If 20 (including meals). The round trip to Moisic and back 
takes nearly a week. 

The N. shore of the Gulf of St. La^Tence is a region which is unique in its dreari- 
ness and desolation. The scenery is wild and gloomy, and the shore is faced with 
barren and storm-beaten hills. The climate is rigorous in the extreme. This dis- 
trict is divided into three parts, — the King's Posts, with 270 M. of coast, from Port 
Neuf to Cape Cormorant ; the Seigniorj' of Mingan, from Cape Cormorant to the 
River Agwanus (135 M.) : and the Labrador, extending from the Agwanus to Blanc 
Sablon (156 M.). Along this 561 M. of coast there are (census of 1S61) but 5,413 in- 
habitants, of whom 2,612 are French Canadians and 833 are Indians. 1,754 are fish- 
ermen, and 1,038 hunters. In the 560 M. there are but 380 houses, 6732 arpents of 
cultivated land, and 12 horses. There are 3,841 Catholics, 570 Protestants, and 2 
Jews. 

The wide Bradore Bay is near Blanc Sablon, to the W., and has been 
called "the most picturesque spot on the Labrador." In the back coun- 
try are seen the sharp peaks of the Bradore Hills, rising from the Avilder- 
ness (1,264 ft. high). The bay was formerly celebrated for its numerous 
humpbacked whales. The village is on Point Jones, on the E. side of 
the bay. 



230 Route 64. 



ESQUIMAUX BAY. 



Brad ore "Bay is of great extent, and is studded with clusters of islets, which 
make broad diTisions of the roadstead. It was known in ancient times as La Baie 
des Lettes, and was granted by France to the Sieur Le Gardeur de Courtemanche 
(who, according to tradition, married a Princess of France, the daughter of Henri 
IV.)' That nobleman sent out agents and officers, named the new port Phelypeaux, 
and built at its entrance a bulwark called Fort Poutchartrain. From him it de- 
scended to Sieur Foucher, who added the title " de Labrador " to his name ; and tbere 
still exi-ts a senii-uoble family in France, bearing the name of Fouchei de Labrador. 

On this bay wa.s the town of Brest, which, it is claimed, was founded by men 
of Brittany, in the year 1508. If this statement is correct, Brest was the fii'st Euro- 
pean settlement in America, antedating by over thirty years the foundation of St. 
Augustine, in Florida. In 1535 Jaques Cartier met French vessels searching for this 
port. About the year 1600 Brest was at the height of its prosperity, and had l.OUO 
permanent inhabitants, 200 houses, a governor and an almoner, and strong fortitica- 
tions. After the su>ijugation of the Esquimaux by the Montaignais, it was no longer 
dangerous to establi.-<h small fishing-stations along the coast and Brest began to 
decline rapidly. Huins of its ancient works may still be found here. 

The Bay of Bunne-Esperance is one of the most capacious on this coast, 
and is sheltered from the sea by a double line of islets. The port is called 
Bonny by the American fishermen, who resort here in great numbers 
duri'ig the herring-season. The islands before the harbor were passed by 
Jaques Cartier, who said that they were " so numerous that it is not pos- 
sible to count them." They were formerly (and are sometimes now) called 
Les Isles de la Demoiselle; and Thdvet locates here the tragedy of Eober- 
val's niece Margueiite (see page 221). 

Esquimaux Bay is N. of Bonne-Esperance, and is 8 M. in circumference. 
2 M. above Esquimaux Island is a small trading-post, above which is the 
mouth of the river, abounding in salmon. There is a great archipelago 
between the bay and the Gulf of St. Lawrence. On one of these islands 
an ancient fort was discovered in the year 1840. It was built of stone and 
turf, and was suiTOunded by great piles of human bones. It is supposed that 
the last great battle between the French and Montaignais and the Esquimaux 
took place here, and that the latter were exterminated in their own fort. 

1.3 M. TT. of Whale Island are Mistanoque Island and Shecatica Bay, beyond Lob- 
ster and Rocky Harbors. Port St. Augustine is 15 M. W. of Alistanoque, beyond 
Shag Island and the castellated highlands of Cumberland Harbor. A line of high 
islands extends hence 21 M. W. by S. to Great Meccatina Island, a granite rock 2x3 
M. in area, and 5U0 ft. high. The scenery in this vicinity is remarkable for its gran- 
deur and singular features. 58 M. from Great Meccatina Island is Cape Whittle ; and 
in the intervening course the Watagheistic Sound and Wapitagun Harbor are passed. 
A fringe of islands extends for 6-8 M. off this coast, of which the outermost are 
barren rocks, and the large inner ones are covered with moss-grown hills. 



' Now, brothers, for the icebergs 

Of frozen Labrador, 
Floating spectral in the moonshine 

Along I he low black shore : 
"Where like snow ihe gannet's feathers 

On Bradors rocks are shed. 
And the noisy murr are flying. 

Like black scuds, overhead ; 

' Where in mist the rock is hiding. 

And the sharp reef lurks below, 
And the white squall lurks in summer. 

And the autumn tempests blow ; 
Where, through gray and rolUng vapor, 

From evening unto morn, 
A thousand boats are hailing, 

Horn answering unto horn. 



" Hurrah .' for the Red Island, 

With the white cross on its crown ! 
Hurrah ! for ^leccatina. 

And its mountains bare and brown I 
Where the Caribou's tall antlers 

O er the dwarf -wood freely toss. 
And the footstep of the Mickraack 

Has no sound upon the moss. 

" Hurrah ! — hurrah ! — the west-wind 
Comes freshening down the bay. 
The rising sails are filling, — 

Give way, my lads, give way ! 
Leave the"coward landsmen clinging 

To the dull earth, like u weed, — 
The stars of heaven shall guide us, 
The breath of heaven shall speed ! " 
JOHX G. Whittier's Song of the Fishermen. 



THE MINGAN ISLANDS. Route 64. 231 

From the quantity of wreck found among these islands, no doubt many melan- 
choly shipwrecks have taken place, which have never been heard of; even if the 
unfortunate crews landed on the barren rocks, they would perish of cold andhuno-er. 

The "eggers" carry on their illegal business along these shores, where milli'ons 
of sea-birds have their breeding-places. They land on the islands and break all the 
eggs, and when the birds lay fresh ones they gather' them up, and load their boats. 
There are about 20 vessels engaged in this contraband trade, carrying the eggs to 
Halifax, Quebec, and Boston. " These men combine together, and form a strong com- 
pany. They suffer no one to interfere with their business, driving away the fisher- 
men or any one else that attempts to collect eggs near where they happen to be- 
Might makes right with them, if our information be true. They have arms, and 
are said by the fishermen not to be scrupulous in the use of them. As soon as they 
have filled one vessel with eggs, they send her to market; others follow in succes- 
Bion, so that the market is always supplied, but never overstocked. One vessel of 25 
tons is said to have cleared £ 200 by this ' egging ' business in a favorable season." 
^Nautical Magazine.) 

To the W. of Cape Whittle are the Wolf, Coacocho, Olomanosheebo, 
Wash-shecootai, and Musquarro Rivers, on the last three of which are 
posts of the Hudson's Bay Company. Next come the Kegashka Bay and 
River, the cliffs of Mont Joli, the cod banks off Natashquan Point, and 
several obscure rivers. 

The Mingan Islands are 29 in number, and lie betv^^een the moun- 
tainous shores of lower Labrador and the island of Anticosti. They 
abound in geological phenomena, ancient beaches, denuded rocks, etc., 
and are of very picturesque contours. About their shores of limestone 
are thick forests of spruce, birch, and poplar; seals and codfish abound 
in the adjacent waters; and wild fowl are very plentiful in the proper sea- 
son. Large Island is 11 M. in circumference; and Mingan, Quarry, 
Niapisca, Esquimaux, and Charles Islands are 2 - 3 M. in length. They 
front the Labrador coast for a distance of 45 M. 

There are about 600 inhabitants near the islands, most of whom are In- 
dians and French Acadians, for whose spiritual guidance the Oblate Fathers 
have established a mission. The chief village is at Mingan Harbor, on 
the mainland, back of Harbor Island; and here is a post of the Hudson's 
Bay Company. The harbor is commodious and easy of access, and has 
been visited by large frigates. The salmon and trout fisheries of the 
Seigniory of Mingan are said to be the best in the world. Long Point is 
due N. of the Perroquets, 6 M. from Mingan Harbor, and is a modern fish- 
ing-village fronting on a broad beach. The fish caught and cured here 
are sent to Spain and Brazil, and form an object of lucrative traflSc. The 
fishermen are hardy and industrious men, generally quiet, but turbulent 
and desperate during their long drinking-bouts. 

The Seigniory of the Mingan Islands and the adjacent mainland was granted to 
the Sieur Francois Bissot in 1661, and the feudal rights thus conveyed and still main- 
tained by the owners have greatly retarded the progress of this district. The walrus 
fisheries were formerly of great value here, and their memory is preserved by Walrus 
Island, on whose shores the great sea-cows used to land. " In 1852 there was not a 
single establishment on the coast, between the Bay of Mingan and the Seven Isles, 
and not a quintal of codfish was taken, except on the banks of Mingan and at the 
River St. John, which the American fishermen have frequented for many years. 
Now, there is not a river, a cove, a creek, which is not occupied, and every year there 



232 Route 64. THE MINGAN ISLANDS. 

are taken 30-35,000 quintals of cod, without counting other fish." " The once 
desolate coasts of Mingan have acquired, by immigration, a Tigorous, moral, and 
truly Catholic population. The men are generally strong and robust, and above aU 
they are hardy seamen." 

On the W. edge of the Mingan Islands are the Perroquets, a cluster of 
low rocks where great numbers of puffins burrow and rear their young. 
On these islets the steamships Clyde and North Briton were wrecked ( in 
1857 and 1861). 

A beach of white sand extends W. from Long Point to the St. John 
Elver, a distance of 18 - 20 M. The river is marked by the tall adjacent 
peak of ilount St. John (1,416 ft. high); and furnishes very good fishing 
(see G. C. Scott's " Fishing in American Waters "). 

The Manitou River is 34 M. W. of the St. John, and at 1\ M. from its mouth it 
makes a grand leap over a cliff 113 ft. high, forming the most magnificent cataract 
on the N. shore. The coast Indians siill repeat the legend of tlie invasion of this 
country by the Micmacs (from Acadia), 200 years ago, and its heroic end. The hos- 
tile war-party encamped at the falls, intending to attack the Montaignais at the 
portage?, for which purpose forces were stationed above and below. But the local 
tribes detected tlieir presence, and cut off the guards at the canoes, then surprised 
the detaclmient below the tails, and finally attacked the main body above. After 
the unsparing carnage of a long night-battle, the Micmacs were conquered, all save 
their great wizard-chief, who stood on the verge of the falls, singing songs of de- 
fiance. A Montaignais chief rushed forward to take him, when the bold Micmac 
seized his opponent and leaped with him into the foaming waters. They were both 
borne over the precipice, and the falls have ever since been known as the Manitousia 
(Conjurer's) I'alls. 

The Moisic River is about 40 M. W. of the Manitou Eiver, and empties 
into a broad bay which receives also the Trout River. At this point are 
the Moisic Iron Works, near which there are about 700 inhabitants, most of 
whom are connected with the mines. This company has its chief office 
in Montreal, and runs a weekly steamer between Moisic and Quebec (see 
page 231). There is a hotel here, where visitors can get plain fare at $5 
a week (no liquors on the premises). Large quantities of codfish and sal- 
mon are exported from Moisic. 

The Seven Islands are a group of barren "mountain-peaks, starting 
suddenly from the ocean," and situated several leagues W. of the mouth 
of the Moisic River. They were visited by Cartier (1535) who reported 
that he saw sea-horses here; and in 1731 they were included in the 
Domaine du Roi. The trading-post which was established here by the 
French, 140 years ago, subsequently reverted to the Hudson's Bay Com- 
pany, and is visited by 3-400 Xasquapee Indians. Since the departure 
of the H. B. Company, the post itself has lost its importance, but all ves- 
sels trading on the N. shore are now obliged to get their clearances here. 
The Montaignais Indians had a broad trail running thence up a vast and 
desolate valley to Lake St. John, 300 M. S. W., and the Moisic River was 
part of the canoe-route to Hudson's Bay. The Montaignais were here 
secure from the attacks of the dreaded Mohawks on the one side, and the 
maritime Esquimaux on the other, and here they received the Jesuit mis- 
sionaries. 



THE SEVEN ISLANDS. Route 64. 233 

The scenery of the Bay of Seven Islands is famed for its wild beauty and weird 
desolation. The bay is 7 M. long, and is sheltered by the islands and a mountainous 
promontory on the W. The immediate shore is a fine saody beach, back of which 
are broad lowlands, and " the two parallel ranges of mountains, vhich add so much 
to the beauty of the distant scenery of this bay, look like huge and in:penetrable 
barriers between the coast and the howling wilderness be} ond them "' In the spring 
and autumn this bay is visited by myriads of ducks, geese, brant, and other will 
fowl, and the salmon-fishing in the adjacent streams is of great value. The Great 
Bou.e is the loftiest of the Steven Islands, reachicg an alticude of 700 ft. alove the 
sea, and commanding a broad and magnificent view. There are about 300 inhab- 
itants here, a large proportion of whom are Indians who are engaged in the fur- 
trade. On Carrousel Idand is a fixed light, 195 ft. above the sea, which is visible 
for 20 M. 

From Can-ousel Island to the St. ^Margaret Eiver it is 8 ]\I. ; to the 
Ca^.vee Islands, 24; to Sproule Point, 28; and still farther W. are the 
Pentecost Eiver and English Point, oif which are the Egg Islands, bear- 
ing a revolving white light, which warns off mariners from one of the most 
dangerous points on the coast. 

In the spring of 1711 the British government sent against Quebec 15 men-of-war, 
under Admiral Sir Hovenden Walker, and 40 transports containing 5,000 veteran 
soldiers. During a terrible August storm, while they were ascending the Gulf of 
St. Lawrence, the fleet drove down on the Egg Islands. The frigates were saved 
from the shoals, but 8 transports were wrecked, with I,3s3 men on board, and 
''884 brave fellows, who had passed scathless through the sanguinary battles of 
Blenheim, RamiUies. and Cuaenarde, perished miserably on the de.-olate shores 
of the St. Lawrence." This terrible loss was the cause of the total failure of the ex- 
pedition. The French vessels which visited the isles after Walker's disaster "found 
the wrecks of 8 large vessels, from vhich the cannon and best articles had been re- 
moved, and nearly S.OGO persons drowned, and their bodies lying along the shore. 
They recognized among them two whole companies of the Qucen"s Guards, dis- 
tinguished by their red coats, and several Scotch faniiiies, intended as settlers in 
Canada," among them seven women, all clasping each other's hands. The regi- 
ments of Kaine, Windresse, Seymour, and Clayton were nearly annihilated in this 
wreck. '* The Frt-nch colony could not but recognize a Providence which watched 
singularly over its preservation, and which, not satisfied with rescuing it from 
the greatest danger it had yet run, had enriched it with the spoils of an enemy 
whom it had not had the pains to conquer ; hence they rendered Him most heart- 
felt thanks.-' (^Chaklevoix.) 

Beyond the hamlet on Caribou Point and the deep bight of Trinity Bay 
is Point de Monts (or, as some say, Point aux Demons), 280 ^1. from Que- 
bec. There is a powerful fixed light on this promontory. 8 M. beyond is 
Godbout, with its fur-trading post; and 9 M. farther W. is Cape St Nicho- 
las. IS M. from the cape is Manicouagan Point, 20 M. AV. of which is the 
great Indian trading-post at the Beisimis River, where 700 Indians have 
their headquarters; thence to Cape Colombier it is 11^ M. ; and to the 
church and fort at Port Nevf it is 12 M. Point Mille Vaches is opposite 
Biquette, on the S. shore of the St. Lawrence, and is near the Sault de 
Mouton, a fall of 80 ft. There are several settlements of French Catholic 
farmers along the shore. At Les Escoumains there are 500 inhabitants 
and considei'able quantities of grain and lumber are shipped. The coast 
is of gi-anite, steep and bold, and runs S. W. 16 M. to Petite Bergeronne, 
whence it is 5^ M. to the mouth of the Saguenay River. 



2S4: MouU 63. AXnCOSTL 



65. Antic osti 

The island of Antico?ti lies in the month of the St. Lr.vrrence Eiver, and 
is lis M. long and 31 M. wide. In ISri it had about 50 inhabitants, in 
charge of the government lights and stations, and also 50 acre5 of cleared 
land and 3 horses. Fox Kiver is 60 M. distant; the Mingan Islands, 30 M. ; 
and Quebec, about 450 M. The island has lately been the scene of the 
operations of the Anticosti Land Company, -which designed to found here 
a new Prince Edward Island, covering these peat-plains with prosperous 
farms. The enterprise has as yet met with but a limited success. 

Anticosti has some woodlands, but is for the most part covered with 
black peaty bogs and ponds, with broad lagoons near the sea. The bogs 
resemble those of Ireland, and the forests are composed of low and stunted 
trees. The shores are lined with great piles of driftwood and the frag- 
ments of wrecks- There are many bears, otters, foxes, and martens ; also 
partridges, geese, brant, teal, and all manner of aquatic fowl. The months 
of July and August are rendered miserable by the presence of immense 
swarms of black flies and mosquitoes, bred in the swamps and bogs. 
Large whales are seen off these shores, and the early codfish are also found 
here. Fine limestone and marble occur in several places; and marl and 
peat are found in vast quantities. There are lighthouses at S. W. Point, 
S. Point (and a fog-whistle), TT. Point (and an alarm-gun), and Heath's 
Point. The government has established supply-huts along the shores 
since the terrible wreck of the Grximcu&, on the S. E. point, when the crew 
reached the shore, but coijQd find nothing to eat, and were obliged to devour 
each oiher. Xone were saved. 

In 15&0 oae of Sir Tniliam Phipps"? troop-ships ■vras wrecked on Anticosti dming 
the retreat from Quebec, and but 5 of its people snrviTed the ^nter on the inland. 
When the ke broke up, the~=e brave feilo^^ starred in a row-boat for Boston. 900 M. 
di>t3Uit : and aJteer a passage of M days rhev reacbe-i tiieir oid home in safety. The 
island was gtanfced in l.^i'l to the Sieur Joliet, who erected a fore here, but was soon 
plundered and tgected by the English. In 151-t H. B. M. frigate Leopard, oO, the 
same vessel which capnired the U S. frigr.re C-esapeaire was lost here 

'' The dangerous, desolate shores cf Antict^ti, rich in wrecks, accursed in human 
sufiering. This hideous wilderness has been the grave of hundreds : by the slowest 
andghastliest of deaths they die'.l. — starvation. Washed ashore from maimed and 
anking shij^, sared to destrucrion. they drag their chilled and battered limbs up the 
rough rocks ; for a mtnoent, warm with hope, they look around with eager, strain- 
ing eye forshellK', — and there is none ; the Miing sight darkens on hiUand forest, 
for^t and hill, and black despair. Hoars and days w^te out the lamp of life, until 
at length the vi&hered skdetrais have cmlj strengUi to die." (£uot Wasbcxio:!>.) 



PROVINCE OF QUEBEC. 



Quebec is bounded on the W. b}' the Province of Ontario, on the N. by 
the wilderness towards Hudson's Bay, on the E. by Maine, Labrador, and 
the Gulf of St. Lawrence, and on the S. by New Brunswick, New Eng- 
land, and New York. It covers 188,688 square miles, and its scenery is 
highly diversified and often mountainous, contrasting strongly with the 
immense prairies of Ontario. The stately river St. Lawrence traverses the 
Province from S. W. to N. E., and receives as tributaries the large rivers 
Ottawa, Richelieu, St. Maurice, and Saguenay. The Eastern Townships 
are famed for their fine highland scenery, amid which are beautiful lakes 
and glens. 

The Province of Quebec has 1,359,027 inhabitants (census of 1881), the 
vast majority of whom are of French descent and language. 1,170,718 of 
the people are Roman Catholics, and the laws of education are modified to 
suit the system of parish-schools. There are 68,797 Church-of-England 
people, 50,287 Presbyterians, and 39,221 Methodists; 1,073,820 are of 
French origin, 123,749 Irish, 81,515 English, and 54,923 Scottish. 

The Dominion of Canada is ruled by a Governor-General (appointed by 
the British sovereign) and Privy Council, and a Parliament consisting of 
8D senators (24 each from Ontario and Quebec, 12 each from Nova Scotia and 
New Brunswick, and 9 from P. E. Island, Manitoba, and British Columbia) 
and 208 members of the House of Commons. There is one member for each 
17,000 souls, or 89 for Ontario, 65 for Quebec, 21 for Nova Scotia, 16 for New 
Brunswick, 6 each for Prince Edward Island and British Columbia, and 5 
for Manitoba. There are 30,144 Canadian militiamen, with a military 
school at Kingston ; and the navy consists of 8 armed screw-steamers (on 
the lakes and the Gulf). In 1800 Canada had 240,000 inhabitants ; in 1825, 
581,920: in 1851, 1,842,265; in 1871, 3,657,887; and in 1881, 4,324,810. 
Between 1842 and 1872, 831,168 emigrants from Great Britain entered 
Canada; and in the same period, 4,338,086 persons, from the same king- 
dom, emigrated to the United States. The exports and imports of Canada 
amount to about $ 90,000,000 a year. Her chief trade is with Great Brit- 
ain and the United States, and the main exports are brendstuffs and tim- 
ber. The Dominion has nearly 10,000 M. of railways, and there are more 
than 6,000 post-offices. 

The first European explorer who visited this country was Jacques Car- 



235 PEOVINCE OF QUEBEC. 

tier, Tvho landed at Gaspe in 1534, and ascended the St. La-vrrence to the site 
of Montreal during the following year. Seventeen years later the ill-fated 
Roberval founded an ephemeral colony near Quebec, and thereafter for 
over half a century Canada was unvisited. In 1603 Champlain ascended 
to the site of Montreal, and Quebec and Montreal were soon founded; while 
the labors of explorations, missions, and fighting the Iroquois were carried 
on without cessation. In 1629 Canada was taken by an English fleet under 
Sir David Kirke, but it Avas restored to France in 1632. The Company of 
the Hundred Associates was founded by Cardinal Richelieu in 1627, to 
erect settlements in La Xouvelle France, but the daring and merciless in- 
cursions of the Iroquois Indians prevented the growth of the colonies, and 
in 1663 the company was dissolved. Finally, after they had exterminated 
the unfortunate Huron nation, the Iroquois destroyed a part of ^lon- 
treal and many of its people (1689). The long and bitter wars between 
Canada and the Anglo-American colonies had now commenced, and Xew 
York and New England were ravaged by the French troops and their allied 
Indians. 

Xaval expeditions were sent from Boston against Quebec in 1690 and 
1711, but they both ended disastrously. Montreal and its environs were 
several times assailed by the forces of New York, but most of the fighting 
was done on the line of Lake Champlain and in the Maritime Provinces. 
At last these outposts fell, and powerful British armies entered Canada on 
the E. and W. In 1759 Wolfe's army captured Quebec, after a pitched 
battle on the Plains of Abraham; and in the following year Montreal was 
occupied by Gen. Amherst, with 17,000 men. The French troops were 
sent home ; and in 1763, by the Treaty of Paris, France ceded to Great 
Britain all her immense Canadian domains. There were then 67,000 
French people and 8,000 Indians in the Province. 

The resident population was conciliated by tolerance to their religion 
and other liberal measures, and refused to join the American Colonies 
when they revolted in 1775. The army of Gen. [Montgomery took Montreal 
and the adjacent country, but the Canadians declined either to aid or to 
oppose the Americans ; and when Arnold was defeated in his attempt to 
storm Quebec, the Continental forces were soon driven back into the 
United States. In 1791 the Provinces of Upper Canada and Lower Canada 
were formed, in order to stop the discontent of the French population, who 
were thus separated from the English and Loyalist settlements to the W. 
In 1791 representative government was established, and in 1793 slavery 
-was abolished. The AVar of 1812 was waged beyond the boundaries of 
Lower Canada, except during the abortive attempt of the Americans to 
capture ^lontreal. In 1837 revolutionary uprisings occurred in various 
parts of Ca-ada, and were only put down after much bloodshed. In 1840 
the two Provinces were united, after which the seigniorial tenures were 
abolished, decimal currency was adopted, the laws were codified, and other 



PROVINCE OF QUEBEC. 237 

improvements took place. The capital, which had been shifted from 
Kingston to Montreal, and then to Toronto, was established by the Queen 
at Ottawa in 1860. The French and English deputies in Parliament were 
still at odds, and after a long wrangle in 1864, the attention of the country- 
was drawn to the old project of confederation, which was at last realized 
in 1867, and Canada (then divided into Ontario and Quebec) and the Mari- 
time Provinces were consolidated into the Dominion of Canada. Since 
that day the councils of the Imperial Government have manifested a de- 
sire to give independence to the new State ; and the Dominion, endowed 
with autonomic powers, has made rapid advances, building great railways, 
bridges, and canals, and forwarding internal improvements. Meantime 
Ontario has gained a preponderating power in the national councils, and 
the statesmen of Quebec are now maturing plans for the repatriation of 
the 500,000 French-Canadians now in the United States, hoping thereby to 
restore the Province of Quebec to her former pre-eminence and to popu- 
late her waste places. 

" Like a Tirgin goddess in a primeval world, Canada still walks in unconscious 
beauty among her golden woods and along the margin of her trackless streams, 
catching but broken glances of her radiant majesty, as mirrored on their surface, 
and scarcely dreams as yet of the glorious future awaiting her in the Olympus of 
nations." {E.i.BL of Dufferin.) 



' ' The beggared noble of the early time became a sturdy country gentleman ; 
poor, but not wretched ; ignorant of books, except possibly a few scraps of rusty 
Latin picked up in a Jesuit school ; hardy as the hardiest woocTsman, yet never for- 
getting his quality of gentiUiomme ; scrupulously wearing its badge, the sword, and 
copying as well as he could the fashions of the court, which glowed on his vision 
across the sea in all the effulgence of Versailles, and beamed with reflected ray from 
the chateau of Quebec. He was at home among his tenants, at home among the 
Indians, and never more at home than when, a gun in his hand and a crucitix on 
his bx'east, he took the war-path with a crew of painted savages and Frenchmen 
almost as wild, and pounced like a lynx from the forest on some lonely fiirm or out- 
lying hamlet of New England. How New England hated him, let her records telL 
The reddest blood-streaks on her old annals mark the track of the Canadian gentil- 
hojnme.''^ (Parkman.) 

" To a traveller from the Old World, Canada East may appear like a new coun- 
try, and its inhabitants like colonists ; but to me, coming from New England, .... 
it appeared as old as Normandy itself, and realized much that I had heard of 
Europe and the Middle Ages. Even the names of humble Canadian villages affected 
nie as if they had been those of the I'enowned cities of antiquity. To be told by a 
habitant, when I asked the name of a village in sight, that it is St. Fereole or St. 
Anne, the Guardian Angel or the Holy Joseph's ; or of a mountain, that it was 
Be'ange or St. Hyarinthe ! As soon as you leave the States, these saintly names 
begin. St. John is the first town you stop at, and thenceforward the names of the 
mountains and streams and villages reel, if I may so speak, with the intoxication 
of poetry, — Charnbly, Longueuil, Points aiix Trembles, Bartholomy, etc., etc., — as 
if it needed only a little foi-eign accent, a few more liquids and vowels perchance in 
the language, to make us locate our ideals at once. 1 began to dream of Provence 
and the Troubadours, and of places and things which have no existence on the 
earth. They veiled the Indian and the primitive forest, and the woods toward Hud- 
son's Bay were only as the forests of France and Germany. I could not at once 
bring myself to believe that the inhabitants who pronounced daily those beautiful 
and, to me, significant names lead as prosaic lives as we of New England. 



*>38 M^mU 66. PICTOU TO QUEBEC. 

" One of Qie tzibataiies of tiie St. Anne is named La Rtriire de la Rose, and &r- 
tiier ea?t axe La. RicUre de la BUmdeiU and La Riciert de la FYiponme. Their ferj 
riciire mfandera mme than oar riter [It is] a more western and wilder Arca- 
dia, mechinks, dian the world has eTcr seen : f<H- the Greeks, with all their wood 
and tiver gods, wexe not so qnahfied to name the natural features of a coantry as 
tbe ancestms of the>e French Canadians ; and if any people had a right to suhsti- 
tote their own for the Indian names, it was they. Tbey hare preceded the picneer 
on onr own ftoatiets, and named the prairie for as.- - (Tho&eac. ) 



On the question as to whether the Canadians speak good Fmich, Potherle sp.ja 
that " tbej had no dialect, which, inieed, is gataaUj lost in a colony." CLar.e- 
Toix observed eaboct 1720) : '* The French langoage k nowhere spoken with greater 
pori^, there being no accmt perceptible.-' BoogainTiUe adds : " They do not 
know how to write, bat they speak with ease and with an accent as good as the 
Parisian." Prof. Silthnan says that they speak as good French as the common 

Ain«»ri<>>fis» gpt»ak KnglfeJi- 

Frcm the Tohnninoos work of M. Banteaa, entitled La France aux Colonies — 
Aeadiem et Camadiens (Parks, 1Sd£*), we learn that in the year 1320 the valleys of 
Uie Sagaenay, Ottawa, and Lower St. Lawrence shall be occapied by a Fracco- 
Canadian nation of 5,000,000 sools : tbat the n.otrmfcl rices, " impoTeiishment of 
inteliigence, and corraption of manners, *' which the Anglo-Americaa race in the 
United Stat^ has so&ied, shall be opposed and checked by the fecond genins of the 
French raee, and the " scientific and artistie aptitudes of the Canadians ," emanating 
eontinent-enl^htening radiance from the walls cS the Laral University : tbat the 
isolate barbarism of the Americans shall be ame'Jorated by the rercet influences 
of the ^ Greco-Latin idea -' of the Franco-Canadians : and that that agricnitaral 
and intelkctiial people, " the general and essential principle of whose material and 
intel!ectaal power is in their religioas faith and in the simplicity of tbeir manners," 
shall pn^thy the sad experience of Old France, — and onder the conservative inflo- 
esces of a social aristocracy shall erect a New France, to be forever illostrioas in ita 
enltare " de r esprit, la modeuie dts maurs, la liberte et la religion." 

66. Picton to Quebec. — Tne Coasts of Gaspe and the Lower 

St Lawrence. 

This voyage is '':^\ of interest to the lover of fine scenery, and leads 
through some of the most attractire parts of the Provinces. The vessels 
pass the loftv highlands of Nova Scotia, the Acadian districts on the 
sandy shores of New Brunswick, the stately mountains about the Bay of 
Chaleur, and the frowning ridges of Gaspe. Then comes, the ascent of 
the majestic St. Lawrence, with its white French villages, its Alpine 
shores, and romantic history, terminated by the quaint mediaeval towers 
of Quebec, "the Walled City of the North." The steamei^ are large and 
comfoTiable, and are quite steady in ordinary seasons. The cabin-tables 
are well supplied, and the attendance is good. There is but little danger 
from sea-sickness, except in very breezy weather (see also page 3). 

This route is served by the vessels of the Quebec Steamship Company. 

Passengers leave Halifax by railway Monday morning, and connect 
with the steamship which leaves Pictou on the same afternoon, calling at 
Charlottetown, Prince Edward Island, Sommerside, P. E. I., Perc^, Gasp^, 
Metis, Father Point, and Quebec, arriving at the latter port on Friday, 
and proceeding at once to Montreal, where ^e arrives next morning. Ee- 



CAELETON. Route 66. 239 

turning, the steamer leaves Montreal on Monday, and Quebec on Tues- 
day, and arrives in Pictou on Saturday morning. Connections are made 
with steamboats for the inner ports of the Bay of Chaleur, at Perc^, and 
travellers may thus reach the line of the Intercolonial Eailway at Camp- 
bellton. 



Halifax to Pictou, see Route 31. St. John to Shediac, see Route 14. 

After leaving Pictou Harbor, the steamship passes out between Caribou 
Island and Pictou Island (see also page 175), and enters the Northumber- 
land Strait. On the S. are the dark highlands of Pictou County, among 
whose glens are scattered settlements of Scottish people. 10 - 12 M. N. are 
the low hills of Prince Edward Island. The deep bight of Tatamagouche 
Bay (see page 81) is passed about 35 M. W. of Pictou, and the blue and 
monotonous line of the Cobequid Mts. may be seen in the S., in very clear 
weather. Bej'ond Bale Verte the steamer passes through the narrow 
part of the Strait between Cape Traverse and Cape Tormentine, and the 
low red shores of Prince Edward Island are seen on the r. The course is 
next laid along the level Westmoreland coast (see page 59), and the har- 
bor of Shediac is entered. 

The general aspect of the N. Shore of New Brunswick is described in 
Route 15 (page 60). It is to be remembered, however, that the Guif- 
Ports steamships do not stop at Richibucto, Bathurst, or Campbellton. 
Having, then, described the coast from Shediac to Dalhousie in Route 15, 
the present route will follow the shores of the great Gaspesian peninsula. 

As the steamship leaves the estuary of the Eestigouche, the red sand- 
stone cliffs of Maguacha Point are passed, on the 1., beyond which is the 
broad lagoon of Carleton Road. The beautiful peak of * Tracadiegash 
is now approached, and after passing the lighthouse on Tracadiegash 
Point, the white village of Carleton is seen on the Quebec shore. This 
place has about 800 inhabitants and a convent, and is snugly situated 
under the lee of the mountains, near a bay which is secure during gales 
from the N. and E. Immense schools of herring visit these shores during 
the springtime, at the spawning season, and are caught, to be used as food 
and for fertilizing the ground. The village is enterprising and active, and 
is inhabited chiefly by Acadians. The steamer stops off the port if there 
are any passengers or freight to be landed. 



240 Roide 66. PASPEBIAC. 

" Carleton is a pretty town, to -which a steamer sometimes runs from Camp- 
bellton, rendering the salmon streams in the vicinity quite accessible. When the 
sun shines, its white cottagres, nestling at the foot of the majestic Tracadiegash 
Mountain, glisten like snow-flakes against the sombre background, and gleam out 
in lovely contrast with the clouds that cap the summit of this outpost sentinel of 
the Alleghany range. ' ' (Hai.t.ock. ) 

The steamer now passes out upon " the undulating and voluptuous Bay 
of Chaleur, full of long folds, of languishing contoui's, which the wind 
caresses with fan-like breath, and whose softened shores receive the flood- 
ing of the waves without a murmur." On the N. is Cascapediac Bay, on 
whose shores are the Acadian and Scottish hamlets of Maria and Kew 
Richmond, devoted to farming and the fisheries. The rugged peaks of the 
Tracadiegash range are seen in fine retrospective views. 

Neit) Carlisle is near the mouth of the Grand Bonaventure Eiver, and is 
the capital of Bonaventure Countv. It has 700 inhabitants, and is en- 
gaged in the fisheries, having also a few summer visitoi-s. The churches 
and court-house occupy a conspicuous position on the high bank which 
overlooks the hixj. This town was founded in 1785 by American Loyal- 
ists, who received from the government one year's provisions, lands, seeds, 
and farming-implements. ^400,000 was expended in establishing this 
settlement and Douglastown. 

Paspebiac ( Clarke's Hotel) is a village of 400 inhabitants, situated on 
the N. shore of the Bay of Chaleur, 440 JI. from Quebec. Its harbor is 
formed by a fine beach of sand 3 M. long, curving to the S., and forming 
a natural breakwater against the sea during easterly gales. The church 
and houses of the village are built above the red clifi's of the shore, and 
present the neat and orderly appearance of a miUtary post. On the line 
of the beach are the great white (and red-trimmed) storehouses and ship- 
yards of Charles Robin & Co. and Le Boutillier Brothers, the mercantile 
establishments which sustain the place. 

Robin & Co. is an ancient house which dates from 1768, and has its headquarters 
at the Isle of Jersey, off the coast of France. Paspebiac was settled in 1766 by Charles 
Eobin, who established here a large fishing station. In June, 1778, the place was 
taken by two American privateers, which carried away the vessels Hope and Bee. 
The whole fleet was soon afterward captured by H. B. M. frigates Hunter and Pipfr, 
but Eobin was forced to pay such heavy salvage that it ruined his business. In 
1783 he came back here under French colors, and in 20 years accumulated a great 
fortune. The firm of Charles Robin & Co. is now the most powerful on all these 
coasts, and keeps large tleets employed, supporting numerous villages from 7 wealthy 
establishments. The heads of the firm live in Jersey, and their officers and man- 
agers on this coast are forced by rule to lead a life of celibacy. This company em- 
ploys 7cO men, besides 17 vessels and 151 sailors ; and the LeBoutilliers have 580 
men and 15 vessels. They export vast quantities of fish and oil to the West Indies 
and the Mediterranean, supplying their Canadian posts, in return, with all needed 
products of other countries. Paspebiac receives $! 1(0, COO worth of goods yearly, 
and exports $300,000 worth of fish. The best fish is sent to the Mediterranean in 
bulk, the second grade goes in tubs to Brazil, and the poorest is shipped in casks 
to the West Indies. The Jersey fleet reaches Paspebiac early in Mar, spends the 
summer fishing in the bay and Gulf, and returns in December. The American mar- 
ket is supplied by the Cape-Ann fleet in these waters ; and the proceeds of the au- 
tumnal months are sold in Upper Canada. The annual yield of the Bay of Chaleur 
is estimated at 26,000 quintals of dry codfish, 600 quintals of haddock, 3,000 bar- 



CAPE DESPAIR. Route 66. 241 

rels of herring, 300 barrels of salmon, and 15,000 gallons of cod-oil. The fisheries 
of the bay and Gulf are valued at $ 800,000 a year, and employ 1,500 sail of vessels 
and 18,000 men. 

In January and February the thermometer sometimes sinks to 25° below zero, 
and the bay is overhung by dark masses of "frost smoke." In this season the 
Aurora Borealis is seen by bight, illuminating the whole northern horizon with 
steady brilliance. In July and August the thermometer ranges from 65° to 106°, 
and the air is tempered by fresh sea-breezes. 

The name Paspebiac means " broken banks," and the inhabitants are called 
Paspy Jacks or Pospillots. Many of the bits of agate and jasper called " Gaspe peb- 
bles " are found on this shore after the gales of spring and autumn, and are sent to 
the jewellers of London and Quebec. It is supposed that they come from the con- 
glomerate rocks on the Restigouche Elver. 

Beyond Paspebiac are the shores of Hope, on which immense masses of 
caplin-fish are thrown up every spring. They are shovelled into wagons 
by the farmers and are used to fertilize the land. The next point of in- 
terest is the deep bay of Po7't Daniel, a safe and well-sheltered haven, on 
whose W. shore is a remarkable hill, 400 ft. high. Near the fishing- 
village up the harbor are deposits of oil-bearing shale. The steamer soon 
passes Point Maqiiereau (which some consider the N. portal of the Bay of 
Chaleur), with Point Miscou on the S. E. 

At midnight on Oct. 15, 1838, the ship Colborne went ashore on Point Maquereau, 
and was soon broken to pieces. Her crew, consisting of 42 men, was lost. The 
cargo was composed of silks, wines, silver-plate, and specie, and was valued at 
over $400,000. The wreckers of Gaspe recovered rich treasures from the wreck. 

Newport is 6 M. beyond Point Maquereau, and is inhabited by 200 Aca- 
dians, who are devoted to the fisheries and to the pursuit of the vast flocks 
of wild fowl which resort to these shores during the spring and autumn. 
Great and Little Pabos are seaside hamlets, 4 and 8 M. farther E. 4 M. 
beyond is Grand River, a large Acadian village clustered about the fish- 
ing-establishment of Robin & Co. It is 7 M. from this point to Cape 
Despair. 

Cape Despair was named by the French Cap d''Espoir, or Cape Hope, and the 
present name is either an Anglicized pronunciation of this French word, or else was 
given in memory of the terrible disaster of 1711. During that year Queen Anne sent 
a great fleet, with 7,000 soldiers, with orders to capture Quebec and occupy Canada. 
The fleet was under Admiral Sir Hovenden Walker, and the army was commanded 
by Gen. Hill. During a black fog, on the 22d of August, a violent storm arose and 
scattered the fleet in all directions, hurling 8 large ships on the terrible ledges of 
Egg Island (see page 233) and Cape Despair, where they were lost with all on board. 
Fragments of the wrecks, called Le Naufrage Anglais, were to be seen along the 
shores until a recent date ; and there was a wild superstition among the fishermen 
to the effect that sometimes, when the sea was quiet and calm, vast white waves 
would roll inward from the Gulf, bearing a phantom ship crowded with men in 
ancient military costumes. An officer stands on the bow, with a white-clad woman 
on his left arm, and as the maddened surge sweeps the doomed ship on with light- 
ning speed, a tremendous crash ensues, the clear, agonized cry of a woman swells 
over the great voice of despair, — and naught is seen but the black cliffs and the 
level sea. 

Just beyond Cape Despair is the prosperous fishing-station of Cape Cove, 
9 M. from Perc^. The traveller should now be on the lookout for the 
Perc6 Rock and Bonaventure Island. The steamer runs in between the 
Rock and the Island, affording fine views of both. 

11 p 



242 Route 66. PERCE. 

The * Perce Eock is 288 ft. high, rising with precipitous walls directly 
from the waves; and is about 500 ft. long. This citadel-like cliff is pierced 
by a lofty arch, through which the long levels of the sea are visible. Small 
boats sometimes traverse this weird passage, under the immense Gothic 
arch of rock. There was formerly another tunnel, near the outer point of 
the Rock, but its roof fell in with a tremendous crash, and left a great 
obelisk rising from the sea beyond. 

The summit of the Perce Rock covers about two acres, and is divided into two 
great districts, one of which is inhabited by the gulls, and the cormorants dwell on 
the other. If either of these trespasses on the other's territory (which occurs every 
fifteen minutes, at least), a battle ensues, the shrill cries of hundreds or thousands 
of bu-ds rend the air, great clouds of combatants hover over the plateau, and peace 
is only restored by the retreat of the invader. When the conflict is between large 
flocks, it is a scene worthy of close notice, and sometimes becomes highly exciting. 
The Rock is at right angles with Mt. Joli, and is of new red sandstone. The top is 
covered with fine grass. 

Many years ago the Rock was ascended by two fishermen, and the way once being 
found,' scores of men clambered iip by ropes and carried away the eggs and young 
birds, finding the older ones so tame that they had to be lifted off the nests. This 
vast aviary would have been depopulated loug ere this, but that the Perce magis- 
ti-ates passed a law forbidding the ascent of the Rock. There are numerous quaint 
and weird legends attached to this place, the strangest of which is that of Le Genie 
de Vile Percee, a phantom often seen over the plateau. " It is likely that the founda- 
tion for this legend can be traced to the vapory or cloud-like appearance the vast 
flocks of water-fowl assume when seen at a distance, wheeling in every fantastic 
shape through the air, previous to alighting on the summit." 

The harbor of Pei'ce is very insecure, and is open to the X. E. winds. In 
earlier times this port was called La Terre des Tempetes, so frequent and 
disastrous were the storms. The village has about 400 inhabitants, most 
of whom follow the shore-fisheries in small boats. The town is visited 
every spring and summer by hundreds of stalwart Jersey lads, sent out by 
the Robins. 

Perc^ consists of South Beach, where are the white-and-red buildings of 
the Robin establishment; and Xorth Beach, whei-e is the bulk of the popu- 
lation, Avith the court-house, jail, and Catholic church. The two sections 
are separated by ^Mount Joli, a lofty promontory which here approaches 
Perc6 Rock. The Episcopal church is a cosey little Gothic structure, 
accommodating 100 persons. Perc6 is " the Elysium of fishermen," and 
hence arises a circumstance which detracts from its value as a summer 
resort, — when the shore is covered with the refuse parts of codfish, pro- 
ducing a powerful and unpleasant odoi*. It is said that even the potatoes 
are found to contain fish-bones. 

Back of Perce is the remarkable * Mount St. Anne, with its bold and 
massive square top rising 1,230 ft. above the sea, and visible for a distance 
of 70 M. over the water. This eminence may be ascended without great 
trouble, and from its summit is obtained one of the noblest views in the 
Maritime Provinces. It includes many leagues of the savage mountain- 
land of Gaspe, extending also along the coast from the Bay of Chaleur to 
Gaspd Bay and Ship Head. But the marine view is the most attractive 



PERCE. Route 66. 243 

and embraces many leagues of the Gulf of St. Lawrence, with its great fish- 
ing-fleets and squadrons of small boats. It overlooks Bonaventure and 
Perc^ Rock. A fine view is also obtained from the highway near French 
Town, including a vast* area of the Gulf, the bird-colonies on top of the 
Rock, Point St. Peter, and Barry Head, with its conspicuous Catholic 
church. The walk around the mountain to the corner of the beach is full 
of interest ; and the road through the hills to Gaspd is picturesque, though 
rough, leading by Corny Beach and through a profound mountain-gorge. 
Mt. St. Anne is also known as Mt. Joli and the Table Roulante. Upon its 
red -sandstone slopes are found shell-fossils, jasper, agate, and fine quartz 
crystals. 

* Bonaventure Island forms a great natural breakwater before the 
Perce shores, and is surrounded by deep channels. It is 2^ M. from the main- 
land, and the passage around the island in a small boat affords a pleasant 
excursion. Bonaventure is 2^ M. long and | M. wide, and is a vast pile 
of red conglomerate rock, with a line of cliffs 3-500 ft. high, facing the 
Gulf over 50 fathoms of water. There ai'e about 300 French Catholics 
on the shores, connected with the fishing-establishment of LeBoutillier 
Brothers. The island was formerly the property of Capt. Duval, a brave 
mariner of the Channel Isles, who, in the privateer Vulture, swept the 
coasts of France during the Napoleonic wars. He is buried on Mount Joli. 

" Perce is one of the curiosities of the St. Lawrence. If one should believe all the 
fantastic stories, to which tradition adds its prestige, that rest about this formidable 
rock, thrown forward into a ceaselessly surging and often stormy sea, like a fearless 
defiance from the shoal to the abyss, it could only be approached with a mysterious 
dread mingled with anguish. Perc6 proper is a village of 200 firesides, established 
on a promontory that seems to guard the St. Lawrence : this promontory is not lofty, 
nor does it compare with our northern mountains ; but it is wrinkled, menacing, 
full of a fierce gi-andeur ; it might be said that the long battle with the ocean has 
revealed to it its strength and the power which it holds from God to restrain the 
waves from passing their appointed bounds. It is an archer of the Middle Ages, 
covered with iron, immovable in his armor, and who receives, invulnerable, all the 
blows of the enemy. In face of the Atlantic, which has beaten it with tempests 
through thousands of centuries, trembling under the eternal shower of the waves, 
but immovable as a decree of heaven, gloomy, thoughtful, enduring without mui'- 
mur the wrathful torrents that inundate it, bent downward like a fallen god who 
expiates in an eternity the arrogant pride of a single day, Perce fills us at once with 
a sorrowful admiration and a sublime pity." (Arthur Buies.) 

Perc6 was visited by Cartier in 1534, and thereafter became a celebrated fishing- 
station for the French fleets. The coast from Canso to Cape Rosier was granted 
soon after, and on its reversion to the Crown this site was bestowed on De Fronsac , 
who founded a permanent village here, while over 500 transient fishermen made it a 
summer rendezvous. Bishop Laval sent the Franciscans here in 1673 to look after 
the spiritual welfare of the people, and they erected a chapel at Perce and the 
Church of St Claire on Bonaventure Island. In 1690 the place was taken, with aU 
its vessels, by two British frigates, whose crews sacked and burnt all the houses at 
Perc6 and Bonaventure, destroyed the churches, and fired 150 gunshots through 
the picture of St. Peter. In 1711 another naval attack was made by the British, 
and the French ships Hiros and Vermandois were captured in the harbor. In 1776 
a desperate naval combat took place off Perc6 Rock, between the American pri- 
vateers that had devastated the shores of the Bay of Chaleur and the British war- 
vessels IFo^and Diligence, Two of the American vessels were sunk within cannon- 
shot of the Rock. 



244 Hottte 66. GASP]^ 

After loavinp: hov anclioi-ago o(T Perc^ the stoamsliip runs N. across the 
oponiiisrs of Mai Uay, and at 9 M. out passes Point St. Ptt^r, with its fish- 
inir-villao\>. The coiu'so is next hiid to the N. W. tip Gaspe Bay, with the 
fatal strand of the Grand Ort>ve on the r. To the 1. is BotiQhistotnt, on 
the broad lagoon at the n>outh of the St. John River tfanunis for salmon). 
This town was laid out by Surveyor Douglas, and is inhabited by Irish 
and Freneli people. The vessel now steams in throuah the narrow strait 
between the grand natural bi-oakwater of Sandybeaoh' and the N. shoi*e, 
and enters the * Gaspe Basiu. The bay is 20 M. long and 5 M. wide, 
and the basin is a secure and land-loeked harbor at its head. As the 
steauior rounds the lighthouse on Sandy beaeh, beautiful views ai^o pre- 
sented of the broad haven, with the North River Mts. to the W. 

" The mountains of Gaspt^ aro fiiir to bohoUi, 
"NVitii tUoir llivkings of shadow and gloiuuings of gold." 

Gaspe {Gttl/ ffousc) is a town of SOO inhabitants, beautifully situated 
between the mountains and the sea, and iVouting on the S. \V. arm of the 
basin. It is the capital of the county and a free port of entry, and is de- 
voted to the fisheries, having several whaling-ships and a large fleet of 
sehooiuM"^. The Gaspt^ eodtish are preferred, in the Mediterranean ports, 
to the Newfoundland fish, because they are not so salty. The chief 
establishment hei-o is that of the LeBoutilliei*s, who have also a fine 
mansion near the village. Petix>leuni has been found here, and wells 7 - i^OO 
ft. deep have been sunk by two companies. Gasp«5 is visited by 2-800 
city people every summer, for the sake of its picturesque scenery, cool 
and sparkling air, and the conveniences lor yachting and for tishing. The 
York and Dartmouth Rivers empty into the basin, and are famous for 
their game-tlsli. The adjacent shores are fertile and iire thickly settled, 
and the town itself is rapidly advancing in importance. On a hill to 
the S. is Fort Hainsay, a line of guns among the trees. This is the first 
point N. of Newcastle where the steamer is moored to a wharf. V'ort- 
nightly mail-packets run freiu Gaspe to Esquimaux Bay, on the Labrador 
coast (see pag-e 230). 

••Whut a devious sisrht I luingino ;\ Kiy 20 M. Ions: endins: ix\ a bas'n whore a 
flivt of a tliovvs^invl vossols oouUl bo sholtoivd. On rii^ht uiul loft, two rvoi-s, whioh 
aiv v^'rtoil bv tlio v^^rt, swivp ai-omul tlio amv^Uithoatrioal ."slioirs ; hills hoiv ami 
tiioix> of s;i>-;\;n^ outluio or oovoitnl with rouudod lawns ; bolow, a littlo lino of v^iors, 
tishinsc-vossols, sohoonoi-s and somo bri^s swimrinjx thoir slaokonod sjiils in tlio lisrlit 
biwio whioh blows tVom tho shoros ; soniothin;.;- wild, fivsh, and vii^nvus, liko tho 
fn-st spring of a groat oivation. Tho Gaspe Basiu has traits of tho giant and of the 
infant; it astonishes and channs ; it has a harmony at onoo dolicate and striking." 

(.VRrUVK lU'lKS.) 

Tho Indians of Gasp6 xrero distinguishod. in a remote age, fvT unusual adA-;\iioes 
iM oiviti.';ation. Thoy know tho poiuts of tho oompa^ss. traivd maps of thoir oouutry, 
o'worvv>d tho positions of tho stars, and woi-shippod tho syn»bol of tho oross. Thoy 
i ;'ornHHi tho oarly Jesuit niissionavios that in fcir vlistant agos thoy woiv sooui-ged 
l> • a fatal |H»st\lontv. nntil a vonoraMo man landed on thoir sl»or^>, and arrestevi tho 
piogivssof tlie disoase 1\y ei-ootiug theol•oss^see TtiRE LasciiRo's Mouvdii ReiationJ* 



GASPJif. Route GG. 245 

la (ja.sp6.sie,l(]7C)). Tf, is RiippoRcd that HiiHrnyBtorioufi vifilf-orwas aNorHoman. Tlio 
naino (ja.spd im-aiiH " ImikI'h <!IiiI," orio of \U coinpoiioiit par(,n \)(:'i)tjs inumi jiIho in 
tho aburi;^iiial words Mala-^^aHli, 'l"ra<;!i,di(!-(,'aHli, cU;. 'I'lio warlike t.riljcH on Uiis 
Hhoro w(!r(! rorriMii-ly diH(Jiip;iiiHli(!d for Ui<;ir fierce aud victoriouH lorays into tlic ic- 
niol-o laridn of tiio IVloiitai>j;iiaiH and Ks(|ijiiriaiix. 

J'rof. Rain, tlio ii^WMt J>aninli archa-oiof^iHh, ha.H n.dvanmd a tlioory to tho cfTfct 
that (;iaspi': wan a liHliin{:;-Ktation of Uk; Noi-ko vikinj^.s in Uio lltli, 12Ui, and loUi 
contmiuH. It Im Hup()o.s<;d thai; ir, was vi-itod in lOOfi by t\u; SpMiiiHii mariner Vekuco, 
who aHcciid(!d tin; St. Ii;i,wr(inc(! for 'AOi) l(;;i^n(^H, or cI'hi! by Sl.clano (jonicz, who was 
fiailiiij;; from Spain to ('nha in lf)2!'), hut was hlosvn far from his conrw;, and entered 
the Uuif of St. Lawn^nce. Then; is a,n old (Jastiiian tradition that tli(! K'>ld-i-<;cking 
Spaniards, lindin;? no jinicionH metals here, Haid, " Am natJu'''' (" There is nothing 
hero"). This oft-r(!peat(!d [ihraKo became fixed in the memory of the lndia,nK, 
though it wan not eompnsiiended ; and wh<!n (.artier eamo, they Knppomtd him to bo 
of the Kiinie jieoph! as tlx; i>revioin IOuro|jean visitors, and enrJeavoi-ed to excite his 
iaterest by nipeatinf? the words, " A(;a iiada, Aea n;ida." lie thoii^'lit that, they 
were ):;ivin;? him the name of their nation or country, and so, accf)rdin(i; to thi.s 
pneriie tradition, arose tlu; name of (Janada. Another tiieory of the derivation of 
tlio name was p;iven liy th(T early New-KiiKlanders : " N(!W lOnj^^land is by 8oine af- 
firmed to ho an island, bounded on the north with the Iliver (Janada (so called from 
Mon.siour (Jane)." (Josski.yn's New l''n^lfW(l''.s ILuritIrs J)isrovf?rd, \(h2.} "From 
this lake northwards is derived the famous Itiver of (Janada, so named of Mon,si(;ur 
do (!;i,n<!, a Ki-eneh Lor(i, who fn-st planted a colony of Jj'rcuch ia America." (Moo- 
ton's New ICni^tisk ('anann, K'lPjJ,.) 

The g(!nerally ree(!ived account of the origin of tho name Canada is that it \h an 
India,n compound word. Cau^li.-na-v}<iu,^li-a means " the villaf^e of the rapid," itH 
first sylla,bl(! beinj^ similar to that of the Indian word (hiia:li-na-tlau^li, " villaf;e of 
huts" (also of aaui^h-yii-iiii, or (Ja-ynj^a, and Cati^/i-na-dauiih-^'a, now (Janan- 
dai'^ua), which has been euphonized into " (Janada." When IJrant, the Mohawk 
chieftain, translated the (Jo.spel of St. Matthew into hi« own language, lie always 
put Canada for " a village." 

In April, 1534 (being then in his fortieth year), the bold and eaga^ioufl Jaquos 
Cartier set sail from ancient St. Malo (" thrust out like a buttress into the sea, 
strange and grimed" aspect, breatliing war frrjm its walls and battlem<;nl,s of ragg(;d 
stone, — a strotigliold of privateers, the home of a rura whose intriictable and de- 
fiant indep(!nderico ni-ither t,ime nor change lias subdued"). Jle was under tho 
patronage of Philippe de J>rioii-(Jhabot, Admiral of France, and was sent forth t.o 
reconnoitre a new roiil;(! to (Jathay, for tiie great advantage of iOuropean crjnniierce,. 
It was also thought tliat in the new realms beyond the sea the (Jatholii; (Jhurcli 
might make sucii conquest:} as would re<iuit,e her for the great Hchisms of Luther aud 
Calvin and the Anglican (Jhurch. The result has nearly justified the hope. 

The intrepid voyager traversed the Strait of I5elle Isle, and Ktrctched across to 
the Baie.des Ckaleurs, which was entered on the Dth of July, and received its name 
from the intense heats which the marinerH encountered there. \hi then landed at 
Oaspe, and took possession of the country in tho name of his (Jhurch and King by 
erecting a cross, ;jO ft high, adorned with the fleur-de-lis. Here he met a company 
of warriors from (Quebec, campaigning against the natives of this region, and c,a,r- 
ried two of thein to France. They were; introduced to all the splendors of I'aris 
and t-he court of FrancLs I., and in tho foUosving year returned with (Jartier aud 
piloted his fleet up the St. Lawrence to their liome at Stadacona ((iuebec). 

" Twenty vessels were laden with stores, food, building implements, guns, and 
ammunition ; nearly 150 pieces of ordnance were stowed away in the different holds, 
to be mounted upon the walls of (iuebec and other forts; the decks were crowded 
wiMi emigrants, male and female; priests were then;, burning with religious zeal; 
and everything looked hopeful for their success. The whole fleet was put under tho 
command of iM. de lloquemont, a French Admiral ; and full of hope and expectation 
they set sail from France in the month of April, i(;27." This stal/;ly fleet was over- 
taken by a storm in the (Jiilf, and took refuge in (iaspe Bay, where they were boldly 
attacked by (Japtain Kirkcs's English squadron of '6 vessels. Kirke summoned tho 
immensely superior French fleet to .surrender, but J^e Jloquemont, though unprepared 
for battl(!, and hampered with freightand non-combatants, sent back a spirited refusal. 
Tho Kirkes then sailed boldly iuto the hoatile fleet, and after raking the Admiral's 



246 Rcmte67. THE LOWER ST. LAWRENCE. 

ship, carried it by boarding. The French resisted but feebly, and the whole squad- 
ron fell into the "bold Briton"s hands. He burnt 10 vessels, and freighted the othtrs 
with the grand train of artillei'V and the other stores, with ■which he returned to 
Eno-land- Champlain was left in despair, at Quebec ; and the Kirkes were burnt 
in effigy in the Pi^ce de Greve, at Paris. 

Gasp'e was honored, in 16^3, by the sojourn of the brave old Baron Dubois d'Av- 
aun-our, some time Governor of New France. From this point he sent his celebrated 
memorial to Colbert, the French Prime Minister, after he had been deposed from 
office through the influence of Bishop Laval and the Jesuits. Hence he sailed to 
France, and soon met a soldier's death in the Croatian fortress of Zrin, which he 
was detending against the Turks. 

In the year 1(60 Commodore Bj'ron's powerful fleet entered Gaspt Basin and 
captured the village. The French frigate Im, Cathamm was in the harbor, but 
was soon taken and destroyed by fire. Many years ago the Gaspesian peninsula was 
erected into a province, and the seat of government was located at this town. But 
the number of inhabitants was not enough to warrant the expense of a vice-regal 
court, and the peninsula was reannexed to Quebec. 

In leaving Gasp^ Basin the steamship passes the beaches of the N. 
shore, lined with -whale-huts and fish-stages, and then runs to the S. E. 
down Gaspe Bay- * Cape Gaspe is 7^ M. N. of Point St. Peter, and 
fronts the Gulf with a line of sandstone cliffs 692 ft. high. Off the S. E. 
point there was formerly a statue-like rock 100 ft, high, called La Vieille 
(the Old Woman), but it has been thrown down by the sea. The Indians 
named this rock Gasepion, whence the name Gaspi, which is now applied 
to the great peninsula between the Bay of Chaleur and the St. Lawrence 
River. Two leagues beyond Cape Gaspe the steamship passes Cape Rosier, 
and enters the St. Lawrence Eiver. 

67. The Lower St. Lawrence. 

" The most interesting object in Canada to me was the River St. Lawrence, known 
far and wide, and for centuries, as the Great River. Cartier, its discoverer, sailed 
up it as for as Montreal in 1535, nearly a century before the coming of the Pil- 
grims ; and I have seen a prett}' accurate map of it so far, containing the city of 
' Hochelaga ' and the i-iver ' Saguenay,' in Ortelius's Theatrum Orbis Terrarmn, 
printed at Antwerp in 1575, in which the famous cities of ' Norumbega ' and ' Or- 
sinora' stand on the rough-blocked continent where New England is to-day, and 
the fabulous but unfortunate Isle of Demons, and Frislant, and others, lie off and 
on in the unfrequented sea, some of them prowling near what is now the course of 
the Cunard steamers. It was famous in Europe before the other rivers of North 
America were heard of, notwithstanding that the mouth of the Mississippi is said to 
have been discovered first, and its stream was reached by De Soto not long after ; 
but the St. Lawrence had attracted settlers to its cold shores long before the Missis- 
sippi, or even the Hudson, was known to the world. The first explorers declared 
that the summer in that country was as warm as France, and they named one of 
the bays in the Gulf of St. Lawrence the Bay of Chaleur, or warmth ; but they 
said nothing about the winter being as cold as Greenland. In the MS. account 
of Cartier"s second voyage it is called ' the greatest river, without comparison, 
that is known to have ever been seen.' The savages told hini that it was the 
^ Chemin du Canada^ (the highway to Canada), ' which goes so far that no man 
hath ever been to the end, that they had heard.' The Saguenay, one of its tribu- 
taries, is described by Cartier in 1535, and still more particularly by Jean Alphouse 
in 1542, who adds : 'I think that this river comes from the sea of Cathay, for in 
this place there issues a strong cuiTent, and there runs here a terrible tide.' The 
early explorers saw many whales and other sea-monsters far up the St. Lawrence. 
Champlain, in his map, represents a whale spouting in the harbor of Quebec, 360 M. 
from what may be called the mouth of the river ; and Charlevoix took his reader to 



CAPE EOSIER. 



Route 67. 247 



the summit of Cape Diamond to see the ' porpoises, white as snow,' sporting on the 
surface of the harbor of Quebec. In Champlain's day it was commonly called ' the 
Great River of Canada.' More than one nation has claimed it. In Ogilby's ' Amer- 
ica of 1670,' in the map Nooi Belgi, it is called ' De Groote lUvier van Niew Ne- 
derlandt ' It rises near another father of waters, the Mississippi, issuing from a 
remarkable spring far up In the woods, called Lake Superior, 1,500 M. in circum- 
ference ; and several other spriugs there are thereabouts which feed it. It makes 
such a noise in its tumbling down at one place as is heard all round the world. 
Bouchette, the Surveyor-General of the Cauadas, calls it ' the most splendid river 
on the globe ' ; says that it is 2,000 M. long (more recent geographers make it 4-500 
M. longer ) ; that at the Riviere du Sud it is 11 M. wide ; at the Paps of Matane, 25 ; 
at the Seven Islands, 73 ; and at its mouth, from Cape Rosier to the Mingan Settle- 
ments in Labrador, 96 M. wide. It has much the largest estuary, regarding both 
length and breadth, of any river on the globe. Perhaps Charlevoix describes the 
St Lawrence truly as the most navigable river in the world. Between Montreal 
and Quebec it averages 2 M. wide. The tide is felt as far up as Three Rivers, 432 
M., which is as far as from Boston to Washington. The geographer Guyot ob- 
serves that the Maranoh is 3,000 M. long, and gathers its waters from a surface of 
1,500,000 square M. ; that the Mississippi is also 3,000 M. long, but its basin covers 
only 8-900,000 square M. ; that the St. Lawrence is 1,800 M. long, and its basin 
covers 1,000,000 square M. ; and speaking of the lakes, he adds : ' These vast fresh- 
water seas,, together with the St. Lawrence, cover a surface of nearly 100,000 square 
M., and it has been calculated that they contain about one half of all the fresh 
water on the surface of our planet.' Pilots say there are no soundings till 150 M. 
up the St. Lawrence. McTagjiart, an engineer, observes that ' the Ottawa is larger 
than all the rivers ia Great Britain, were they running in one.' The traveller Grey 
writes : ' There is not perhaps in the whole extent of this immense continent so fine 
an approach to it as by the river St. Lawrence. In the Southern States you have, 
in general, a level country for many miles inland ; here you are introduced at once 
into a majestic scenery, where everything is on a grand scale, — mountains, woods, 
lakes, rivers, precipices, waterfalls.' We have not yet the data for a minute com- 
parison of the St. Lawrence with the South American rivers ; but it is obvious that, 
taking it in connection with its lakes, its estuary, and its falls, it easily bears off 
the palm from all the rivers on the globe." (Freely condensed from Thoreau's 
A Yankee in Canada.) 



• Bien loin de ses pourbis, sous Tombre des 

platanes, 
L'Arabe au blanche burnous qui suit les 
caravanes 
Sur les sables errant 
Decouvre moins joj'eux son oasis huraide, 
Que les Canadiens'sous la saison torride 
Leur fleuve Samt-Laurent. 



" A nous ses champs d'azur et ses fraichea 
retraitcs, 
Les ilots couronnes de mourantes aigrettes, 

Les monts audacieux. 
Les aromes piquants que la nier y depose 
. Et son grand horizon ou votre osil se repose 
Comme letoile aux cieux.' 

L. J. C. FlSET. 



Sur ces bords enchantes, notre mere, la 

France, 
A laisse de sa gloire iin immortel sillon, 
Precipitant ses flots vers I'ocean immense, 
Le noble Saint-Laurent redit encor son 



" Salut, 6 ma belle patrie ! 
Salut, 6 bords du Saint-Laurent 
Terre que I'etranger envie, 
Et qu il regrette en la quittant. 
Heureux qui pent passer sa vie, 



Toujours fldele a te servir : 
Et dans tes bras, mere cherie, 
Peut rendre son dernier soupir, 

Salut, 6 ciel de ma patrie I 
Salut, 6 noble Saint-Laurent I 
Ton uom dans mon ame attendrie 
Eepand un parfum enivrant. 
O Canada, fils de la France, 
Qui te couvrit de ses bienfaits, 
Toi, notre amour, notre esperance. 
Qui pourra toublier jamais 'i " 

O. Ce^mazie. 



Cape Rosier, "the Scylla of the St. Lawrence," is 6 M. beyond Cape 
Gasp^, and is the S. portal of the St. Lawrence River, whose mouth at 
this point is 96 M. wide. At the end of the cape is a stone lighthouse 
tower, 112 ft. high, with a fixed light (visible 16 M.) and a fog-horn. 

The hamlets of Grand Gr^ve, Griffin's Cove, and Cape Eosier 
are in this vicinity, and are inhabited' by French people, who are de- 



248 Route 67. CAPE MAGDELAINE. 

pendent on the fishing-establishment of William Hyman & Sons, of 
Gaspe. 

" The coast between Cape Eosier and Cape Chatte is high and bold, free 
from dangers, and destitute of harbors," and is lined with a majestic wall 
of mountains composed of slate and gray%yacke. They are covered with 
forests, and afford successions of noble views, sometimes of amphithe- 
atrical coves, sometimes of distant vistas of blue peaks up the long gorges 
of the rivers. 

" How can it be that men inhabit this harsh, arid, rough, almost hateful country, 
which extends from Cape Chatte to the Gaspe Basin? One can scarcely imagine. 
Yet, as you see, here and there appear parcels of tilled land, houses scattered along 
the banks, and little churches at Tarious points." 

" The peninsula of Gaspe, the land's end of Canada towards the E. , from its geo- 
logical formation of shale and limestone, presenting their upturned edges toward 
the sea and dipping inland, forms long ranges of beetling cliffs running down to a 
narrow strip of beach, and affording no resting-place even to the fishermen, except 
■where they hare been cut down by streams, and present Mttle coves and ba3's open- 
ing back into deep glens, affording a view of great rolling wooded ridges that stand 
rank after rank beMnd the great sea-cliff, though with many fine valleys between." 

7 M. N. W. of Cape Eosier the settlement at Griffin's Cove is passed ; and 
5 M. farther on is Fox River (Cloridorme), a settlement of 500 persons, with 
one of the Isle-of-Jersey fishing-establishments, a large Catholic church, 
and a court-house. The cod and mackerel fisheries are followed in the 
adjacent waters, and large American fleets are often seen off the port. 
The grand highway from Quebec ends here, biit a rugged road runs down 
to Gaspe in 17 M. The inhabitants are nearly all French. 16 M. farther 
W. is the haven called Great Pond, 24 M. beyond which is Cape Magde- 
laine (red-and-white revolving light, visible 15 - 20 M. ) at the mouth of the 
Eiver Magdelaine, the home of some of the wildest legends of this region. 

" Where is the Canadian sailor, familiar with this coast, who has not heard of the 
plaintive sounds and doleful cries uttered by the Braillard de la Magdelaine ? 
Where would you find a native seaman who would consent to spend a few days by 
himself in this locaUty, wherein a troubled spirit seeks to make known the torments 
it endures ? Is it the soul of a shipwrecked mariner asking for Christian burial for 
its bones, or imploring the prayers of the church for its repose ? Is it the voice of 
the murderer condemned to expiate his crimes on the very spot which witnessed 
its commission ? . . . . For it is well known that Gasp6 wreckers have not always 
contented themselves with robbery and pillage, but have sometimes sought conceal- 
ment and impunity by making away with victims, — convinced that the tomb is 
silent and reveals not its secrets." The Abb6 Casgrain attributes these weird 
sounds to the fate of a priest who refused to christen a child who afterwards was 
lost by dying unbaptized. The conscience-stricken priest faded away to a skeleton, 
and the sound of his moaning has ever since been heard off these dark shores. An- 
other legend tells that a terrible shipwreck occurred at this point, and that the only 
soul that reached the shore was a baby boy, who lay wailing on the beach through- 
out the stormy night. " AVhere La Magdelaine runs into the Gulf, horizontal layers 
of limestone, fretted away all around their base by the action of the tides and 
waves, assume the most fantastic shapes, — here representing ruins of Gothic archi- 
tecture, there forming hollow caverns into which the surf rolling produces a moan- 
ing sound, like an unquiet spirit seeking repose." The strange wailing which is 
heard at certain seasons along this shore is otherwise referred to the rush of the 
wind through the pine-trees on the cape, whose trunks grate together with a harsh 
creaking. 



CAPE CHATTE. Route 67. 249 

Pleurese Point is 12 M. from Cape Magdelaine, and is near the remote 
hamlet of Mont Louis. Lines of wild cliffs front the shore for the next 28 
M., to Cape St. Anne, near which is the French Catholic village of St. 
Anne des Monts, v/hich has 250 inhabitants and a consulate of Italy. The 
adjacent waters abound in mackerel, cod, halibut, and herring, and great 
quantities of salmon and trout are caught in the Eiver St. Anne. The 
stately peaks of the * St. Anne Mountains are seen on the S., com- 
mencing 12 M. S. W. of Cape St. Anne and running in a S. W. course for 
40 M., nearly parallel with the river and 20-25 M. inland. These moun- 
tains are the most lofty in Canada, and are visible for 80 - 90 M. at sea, 
in clear weather. The chief peak is 14 M. from Cape Chatte, and is 
3,973 ft. high. 

" All those who come to New France know well enough the mountains of Notre 
Dame, because the pilots and sailors being arrived at that part of the great river 
which is opposite to those high mountains, baptize ordinarily for sport the new 
passengers, if they do not turn- aside by some present the inundation of this baptism 
which IS made to flow plentifully on their heads." (Lalemant, 1648.) 

Cape Chatte is 15 M. N. W. of Cape St. Anne, and sustains a white 
flashing light which is visible for 18 M. 

Cape Chatte was named in honor of the ofScer who sent out the expedition of 
1603, under Pontgrave and Lescarbot. ffis style was Eymard de Chaste, Knight 
of Malta, Commander of Lormetan, Grand Master of the Order of St. Lazarus and 
Governor of Dieppe. ' 

Somewhere in this broad reach of the river occurred the chivalrous naval battle 
between the English war-vessel Abigail and the French ship of Emery de Caen (son 
of Lord de la Motte). The Abigail was commanded by Capt. Kirke, and was sailing 
against Tadousac , when she was attacked (June, 1629) by De Caen. A running fight 
of several hours ensued, until a fortunate cannon-shot from the Abigail cut away 
a mast on the French vessel and compelled her to surrender. The loss on each 
ship was considerable. 

The reach of the St. Lawrence next entered is about 35 M. wide, and 
on the N. shore is Point de Monts (see page 233). It is 33 M. from Cape 
Chatte to Matane, in which the steamer passes the hamlets of Dalibaire 
and St. Felicite. In 1688 the Sieur Eiverin established a sedentary fish- 
ery'- at Matane, devoted to the pursuit of codfish and whales. Sometimes 
as many as 50 whales were seen at one time from the shore. This branch 
of the fisheries has now greatly declined. Matane is a village of 300 in- 
habitants, devoted to farming and lumbering, and is visited by Canadian 
citizens on account of the facilities for sea-bathing on the fine sandy 
beach. There is also good fishing for trout and salmon on the Matane 
Eiver. The remarkable peaks called the Ca2:>s of Matane are to the S.W., 
in the great Gaspesian wilderness. In clear weather, when a few miles E. 
of Matane, and well out in the river, Mt. Commis may be seen, 40 M. 
distant, S. W. by W. i W., like an island on the remote horizon. 

The shore is now low, rocky, and wooded, and runs S. W. 22 M. to 

Petit Metis, which was populated with Scottish families by its seigneur. 

4 M. from this point is the station of St. Octave, on the Intercolonial Eail- 

way. Metis is a little way W., and is occupied by 250 French Catholics 

11* 



250 Route 67. EIMOUSKI. 

and Scotch Presbyterians. It has a long government wharf; and the 
people are engaged also in the pursuit of black whales, which are sought 
by schooners equipped with harpoons, lances, etc. N. of Metis, across 
the river, is the great peninsula of Manicouagan, at the mouth of the 
rivers Manicouagan and Outarde, abounding in cascades. 

The steamship comes to off Father Point, where there is a lighthouse 
and telegraph-station (for news of the shipping), and a hamlet of 100 in- 
habitants. Here the outAvard-bound vessels discharge their pilots. Near 
this place are the hamlets of St. Luce and St. Donat, and at St. Flavie, 
15 M. N. E., the Intercolonial Railway i-eaches the St. Lawrence (see page 
70). A few miles S. E. is Mt. Camille, which is 2,036 ft. high. Father 
Point (Pointe au Pere) was so named because the priest Henri Nouvel 
wintered there in 1663. Canada geese, ducks, and brant are killed here 
in great numbers during the long easterly storms. 

St. Germain de Eimouski {Hotel St. Laurent; Eimouski Hotel) is 6 M. 
from Father Point, and is an incorporated city, an impoi'tant station on 
the Intercolonial Railway, and the capital of Eimouski County and of a 
Roman-Catholic diocese. It has 1,200 - 1,500 inhabitants, with a handsome 
cathedral, a Catholic college, convent, episcopal palace, court-house, and 
other public buildings. The Canadian government has built a large and 
substantial wharf out to the deep channel, and a prosperous future is ex- 
pected for the young city. Many summer visitors come to this place, 
attracted by its cool air and fine scenery. 

Rimouski was founded in 1688, and in 1701 a missionary was sent here, who 
founded a parish which has now grown into a strong bishopric. "Eimouski, the 
future metropolis of the Lower St. Lawrence, a httle city full of promise and fur- 
rowed already by the rails of the Intercolonial, will have its harbor of refuge where 
the great ocean-steamers will stop in passing, and will attract all the commerce of 
the immense region of the Metapedia, the future granary of our country." The 
Rimouski River is famous for its abundance of trout. 

Barnaby Island is low and wooded, and 3 M. long, sheltering the harbor of 
Rimouski. It was known by its present name in 1629, when the fleet of the Kirkes 
assembled here. From 1723 to 1767 it was the home of a pious French hermit, who 
avoided women and passed most of his time in his oratory. Some say that he was 
wrecked off these shores, and vowed to Heaven to abide here if he was saved ; others, 
that he had been disappointed in love. In his last hours he was visited by people 
from Rimouski, who found him dying, with his faithful dog hcking his chiliiug 
face. 

Bic Island was formerly called Le Pic, but was named St. Jean by Cartier, 
who entered its harbor in 1535, on the anniversary of the decapitation of St. John. 
It was included in the scheme of D'Avaugour and Vauban (in the 17th century) for 
the defence of Canada, and was intended to have been made an impregnable mari- 
time fortress, sheltering a harbor of refuge for the French navy. But this Mont St. 
Michel of the New World never received its ramparts and artillery. The place was 
taken by Wolfe's British fleet of 200 ships, June 18, 1759 ; and when the Tretit affair 
threatened to involve the United States and Great Britain in war, in 1861, British 
troops were landed at Bic, on the main shore, from the ocean-steamship Persia, 
and were carried hence in sleighs to Riviere du Loup. Near this point is L'Islet 
au Massacre, where, according to tradition, 200 Micmac Indians were once sur- 
prised at night by the Iroquois, while slumbering in a cavern. The vengeful enemy 
silently filled the cave's mouth with dry wood and then set it on fire, shooting the 
unfortiinate Micmacs as they leaped through the flames. 195 of the latter were 
slain, and it is claimed that their bones strewed the islet until within a few years. 



TROIS PISTOLES. Route 67. 251 

Ste.-Cecile du Bic (two boarding-houses) is a prosperous French vil- 
lage of 600 inhabitants, with a good harbor and a large and ugly church. 
It is 9 M. from Eimouski, and is surrounded by fine scenery. The Bay 
of Bic is "large enough to be majestic, small enough to be overlooked in 
one glance ; a shore cut into deep notches, broken with flats, capes, and 
beaches ; a background of mountains hewn prodigally from the world's 
material, like all the landscapes of our Canada." The Intercolonial Rail- 
way was carried through this region at a vast expense, and sweeps around 
the flank of the mountain, 200 ft. above the village, affording beautiful 
views. Wonderful mirages are seen off" this port, and out towards Point 
de Monts. The highlands immediately over Bic are nearly 1,300 ft. high; 
and the bay receives two rivers, which descend in cascades and rapids 
from the neighboring gorges. As the steamship passes the lighthouse on 
Biquette Island, the remarkable and varied peaks of the mountains to the 
S. will attract the attention by their fantastic irregularity. Between Bic 
and Trois Pistoles, but not visible from the river, are the new French vil- 
lages of St. Fabien, among the mountains; St. Matthieu, with its great 
quarries of red stone for the Intercolonial Railway ; and St. Simon, near a 
pretty highland lake. 

The rocky islets of Rosade are 2 M. off the shore of Notre Dame des Anges, and are 
decorated with a large cross, in memory of a marvellous escape. Some 30 years ago 
the St. Lawrence froze for 6 M. out from the parish, and many hundreds of seals 
■were discovered on the ice. The people gathered and went out to slay these strange 
visitors, but the ice suddenly broke adrift and was whirled away down the stream. 
There appeared no hope of escape for the 40 men on the outer floes, which were 
now \ M. from the shore. Their families and friends bade them an eternal farewell, 
and the village priests, standing at the water's edge, gave them final absolution in 
preparation for the approaching catastrophe. But even while they were kneeling 
on the ice, a bold mariner launched a tiny skiff from the shore and crossed the 
■widening belt of tumultuous waters, touched the crumbling edges of the floes, and, 
after many trips back and forth, succeeded in landing every one of the men upou 
the isle of Rosade. Thence they passed easily to the mainland, and afterwards 
erected a cross on Rosade, as a token of their gratitude. 

Trois Pistoles (two good hotels) is a thriving village of 650 inhab- 
itants, situated inside of Basque Island (5 M. from the Rosades), and near 
valuable deposits of limestone. There are two Catholic churches here, 
whose construction involved a litigious contest which is still remembered 
in Lower Canada. The beauty of the marine scenery in this vicinity has 
induced several Quebec gentlemen to build summer cottages here. 

There is a well-founded tradition that in the year 1700 a traveller rode up to the 
bank of the then unsettled and unnamed river and asked the Norman fisherman, 
who was tending his nets near his rude hut, what he would charge to ferry him 
across. "Trois pistoles" (three ten-franc pieces), said the fisher. "What is the 
name of this river ? " asked the traveller. " It has no name ; it will be baptized at 
a later day." " Well, then," said the traveller, "name it Trois Pistoles.'''' The 
river is now famous for its fine trout-fishing. 

" That portion of the St. Lawrence extending between the Saguenay River and 
Goose Island is about 20 M. wide. The spring tides rise and fall a distance of 18 ft. 
The water is salt, but clear and cold, and the channel very deep. Here may be seen 
abundantly the black seal, the white porpoise, and the black whale." The ■white 
porpoise yields an oil of the best quality, and its skin makes good leather. 



252 Route 67. KAMOURASKA. 

The Gulf-Ports steamship does not stop between Father Point and 
Qnebec, but the villages described in this itinerary may be visited from 
Quebec ; those on the S. shore by railway, and St. Paul's Bay, Murray 
Bay, Riviere du Loup, and Rimouski by river-steamers. The N. shore 
from Cape Tourmente to the Saguenay is described in Route 72. 

The vessel steams up by Green Island, which is 6 - 7 M. long, and shel- 
ters the large manufacturing village of Isle Verte, whence fine butter is 
sent to Quebec. On the r. is Bed Island, with its tall stone lighthouse, off 
which is a lightship. Cacouna and Riviere du Loup (see Route 72) are 
next passed, on the 1., and the vessel runs "W. with the three steep islets 
called the Brandy Pots {Pots-a-f eau-de-vie) on the r. The S. islet bears 
a fixed light; the N. islet is 150 ft. high, of vesiculated conglomerate in 
which almond-shaped bits of quartz are imbedded. In war-time merchant- 
ships wait off the Brandy Pots for their convoying frigates. X. of these 
islets is Sare Island, which is about 10 M. long, and has extensive salt 
marshes, on which herds of cattle are kept. On the 1. are now seen the 
five remarkable islets called The Pilgrims, about 1§ M. from the S. shore 
and 4h ^L in aggregate length. The Long PilgHm is 300 ft. high and par- 
tially wooded, and is marked by a lighthouse, 180 ft. above the river. 
The Kamouraska Islands are 6 M. farther W., and over them is seen the 
pretty village of Kamouraska {Albion Hotel), with its gi-eat Church of 
St. Louis and Congregational Convent. The river-water at this point is as 
salt as the sea, and the village was the chief summer resort on the St. 
LaAvrence before Cacouna arose. 

" Who does not know Kamouraska ? Who does not know that it is a charming 
Tillage, bright and picturesque, bathing its feet in the crystal of the waters of the 
river^like a'naiad, and coquettishly viewing the reflections of its two long ranges of 
white houses, .... so near the river that ftom all the windows the great waves may- 
be contemplated and their grand voices heard ? On all sides, except towards the S., 
the horizon extends as far as the eye can reach, and is only bounded by the vast blue 
curtain of the Laurentides. At the N. E. the eye rests on a group of verdant isles, 
like a handful of emeralds dropped by the angel of the sea. .... These isles are the 
farorite resort of the strangers who visit Kamouraska. There they fish, or bathe, 
or seek other amusements. Le pique-nique is much in vogue there, and the truest 
jovs are felt."' 

'St. Paschal (700 inhabitants) is 5 M. from Kamouraska, on the Grand Trunk 
Railway. 

" Bel endroit, Saint-Paschal, par sa croupe onduleuse, 
Ses couteaux, ses vallons, sa route siuueuse I 
C'est la Suisse ou I'Auvergne arec leurs gais chalets, 
Leurs monts, leurs pres en pente et leurs jardins coquets." 

Beyond Kamouraska the steamer passes Cape Diable, and on the N. 
shore, 22 M. distant, are the bold mountains about Murray Bay (see 
Route 72). On the level plains to the S. is seen the tall Church of St. 
Denis, with its attendant village ; and beyond Point Orignaux is the vil- 
lage of Riviere Quelle, famous for its porpoise-fisheries. Xear this point 
is the quaint Casgi'ain manor-house, now over a century old. 

This parish is named for Madam Houel, wife of Comptroller-General Houel, who 
was captured here by Indians in the 17th century. Near the beach is a rock which 



ST. ANNE DE LA POCATI^RE. Route 67. 253 

bears the plain impress of three snow-shoes, and formerly had the marks of human 
feet and hands. In 1690 the priest of Riviere Quelle led his parishioners, and drove 
back the New-Englanders of Sir William Phipps's fleet. Back among the hills are 
the hamlets of St. Onesime and St. Pacome. 

St. Anna de la Pocatiexe (two hotels) is a large and prosperous town, 
72 M. below Quebec, with 3,000 inhabitants, a weekly paper {La Gazette 
des Campagnes), and a convent. "Nature lias given to St. Anne charm- 
ing shores, laden with foliage and with melody, ravishing points of view, 
and verdant thickets, fitted for places of meditation." St. Anne's College 
is a stately pile of buildings with pleasant surroundings and a sumptuous 
chapel. It has 30 professors (ecclesiastics) and 230 students, and is main- 
tained in a high state of efficiency. The parks cover several acres, and 
the museum is well supplied. St. Anne's Agricultural School and Model- 
Farm is connected with thecollege, and has 5 professors (zootechny, rural 
law, etc.). The view from the dome of the college is of great extent and 
beauty. 

As the steamer passes St. Anne the frowning mass of Mt. Eboulements 
is seen on the N. shore. A few miles beyond St. Anne the hamlet of St. 
Roch-des-Aulnaies is passed, on the 1., and still farther to the W. is St. 
Jean-Port- J oli, a pretty little village about which is laid the scene of 
De Gaspe's popular romance, "Les Anciens Canadiens." The Isle aux 
Coudres is far away towards the N. shore. The course is laid in by the 
islet called the Stone Pillar, on which there is a lighthouse, and 14 M. 
farther W. is the insulated rock of the Wood Pillar. The large and pros- 
perous village of L'Islet (1,000 inhabitants) is seen on the 1. Goose Island 
is passed on the r., and is connected with Crane Island {D Isle aux Grues) 
by a long aUuvial meadow, which produces rich hay, the total length 
being 11 M. Fine sporting is enjoyed here in the spring and autumn, 
when great flocks of snipe, plover, and wild geese visit these shores for a 
breeding-plnce. There is a settlement of about 150 persons on Crane 
Island, whence are obtained noble views of Cape Tourmente. 

During the French regime these islands {Les Isles de Ste. -Marguerite) were erected 
into a seigniory and granted to an officer of France. He built a massive stone house 
on Crane Island, and was afterwards kept there, in rigorous captivity, by Madame 
de Granville. She claimed that she was his sister, and that he was insane ; but this 
report was doubted by the people of the S. shore, and the island was regarded with 
dread. She kept him in close durance for many years, until at last he died. 

Beyond the S. shore village of Cap St. Ignace (400 inhabitants) the 
steamer passes St. Thomas, the capital of Montmagny County. This town 
has 1,650 inhabitants, and carries on a large local trade. • The College 
Montmagny is located here, and there is also a convent and a large and 
conspicuous church. The broad white band of a cascade is seen at the 
foot of the cove, where the Riviere du Sud falls 30 ft. On the r., beyond 
St. Thomas, is seen a cluster of picturesque islets, over which the massive 
Cape Tourmente frowns. 



254 r<mU67. grosse isle. 

" At length they spy huge Tourmente, sullen-browed, 
Bathe his bald forehead in a passing cloud ; 
The Titan of the lofty capes that gleam 
In long succession down the mighty stream ; 
When, lo I Orleans emerges to the sight, 
And woods and meadows float in hquid light ; 
Rude Nature doffs her savage mountain dress, 
And all her sternness melts to loveliness. 
On either hand stretch fields of richest green, 
With glittering village spires and groves between, 
And snow-white cots adorn the fertile plain." 

Grosse Isle formerly appertained to the Ursulines, and is 1\ M. long 
On its graywacke ledges is the great Quarantine of Canada, where emi 
grant-ships are detained until thoroughly inspected and purified. Thi 
island is a vast tomb, so many have been the emigrants who have reachei 
these shores only to die, poisoned in the filthy and crowded ships, poorh 
fed and rarely ministered unto. The Quarantine-station is occupied b;; 
medical and police forces, and is under a rigid code of rules. 

The next town is Bertliier, an ancient French parish of 400 inhabitants 
W. of which is Bellechasse Island, composed of high, steep, and bai'e gray 
wacke rocks. On the N. are Reaux Island (150 ft. high) and Madam^ 
Island, both of which are covered with trees. St. Valier is beyond Belle 
chasse, and is a place of 200 inhabitants, near which large deposits of boj 
iron-ore have been found. The Isle of Orleans (see Route 71) is nov 
approached, on the r., and over it is seen the peak of Mt. St. Anne 
Nearly opposite St. John (on the Orleans shore) is St. Michel, a lumber 
working town of 700 inhabitants, in whose spacious church are som 
paintings for which a high value is claimed: St. Clara, hy MuriUo(?) 
St. Jerome,, Boucher ; the Crucifixion, Eomanelli ; the Death of the Vir 
gin, Gouly ; St. Bruno, Philippe de Champagne ; the Flagellation, Chally 
6 M. beyond St. Michel is Beaumont, a village of 600 inhabitants, oppc 
site Patrick's Hole, on the Orleans shore. The settlements now gro\ 
thicker on either shore, and in about 6 M. the steamship passes the W 
end of the island of Orleans, and opens the grandest **view on the route 
On the r. is the majestic Montmorenci Fall, on the 1. the rugged height 
of Point Levi and St. Joseph, and in front the stately cliffs of Quebec 
crowned with batteries, and flowering into spires. 




QUEBEC. 



1 



1 Basilica Ij.i. 

2 dfiglican :■ ..E.4, 

3 Wesleifan C'hurcJh F.»»- 

\ Preshfterian " E.4« 



%-5e.j. 



ef(^.. 



BX 



7 Sf. Stmyeiir:..'J...-.:—A.2. 

HS^.RocIi......l €.2. 

9 Nohv Damf lies 

Vicim-es. ., M'. 

10 (IrM^hpn Paliuc. _ E.3 . 

11 Seminarj .,.--._. E.3. 

IS He^elDleti fmvet^. ^ E,t5- 

\\ UtHulins.j:, E/f. 

15 (mt^ Sisfet'yU. D.3. 

115 (Jflfif/rftf/mial.^s. C2. 

17 {r/neiiul ffe^pilal- .l^*i. 

18 Mtfrt'rw.,_^,sL : , . C 1 . 

19 MpiTiri' f'tfl/rgc Er3. 

^ Ihi^iamaitJ&mo - , K 3 . 

21 &urt Ifousc'. E.4. 

TlK^ntKousf E.4. 

23 JJighSchool ^. E."!'. 

24 (itrfwnfi/^ (JafJcn^^ ,._JK.^. 

25 disUmHeu^V- r.a. 

2? .^^;^ B.5. 

' 28 Wolfes Mf/mmenl. . B.S. 
29 Ammcan (fwsuldU - -Ed. 

305^.J^//y?:y^tfir. . 0.3. 

31 iVfe Louvs ". - - O. 'f . 

32 Frc'^c^WJL.Je^E^. 

V»Hvpe --S. E.3. 

yk Palace -.'.' E.3. 

35 St. Lf'uis litiei E.4 . 

36 Dcpartrti&nial Bigs D.4, 




QUEBEC. 

1 Basilica. \[X 

"i, (LuiUcan ■ \,.\. 

3 We~ilef/an Church F..>>' 

4 PirJii/lfi-wn " E.4. 
^St.MN(CaJ.kl-- l"-3. 

7 5/. .S'/nwaa/.-:-..-- .-A.2. 

HShRocJi. : €.2. 

9 Nufiv Damt^ lies 
Vixioiivs. . V'^- 

10 fljrlMi(ip'sPal-acf. . E.3i. 

n SemuMr.r — E..». 

12 Larfi/Ilfiivav/ly. K^. 

'^HcldDimCmiTent -E.3. 

\\}fj:s,ilin^. r., E-I'. 

15 Gmy Sisfei-s"- D.tl. 

1() (m^irt/uluninl..- l.^. 

17 (imeitd HvspU^ n'i- 

18 J:^//-.>?^-_------ t.l- 

^Mmriit fvlfffif. E,3. 

20 Fw^iammtf&m'O. F.3. 

21 OurfUms.^. VA. 

n Ke.nt Houses EA. 

njJu/hSehmj^ E.I. 

2't (mrrtKify Oairlcti' .E.''!. 

25 (^i.iliim Ileu^sc - r.Il. 

26 ChttmphwMai^<:l El. 

27 //'^/ J^-^- 

•28 WdfeiMeicawenl^^. 
29 hinimii (i/i/sulitk- . .r.«. 
"jfyStJi'lm-sfmU ..1).3. 

32 rrc*c4>m. '■-... -E.E4. 

3f PaUce-" I->- 

%st St Li'ui^ Hdd E.4. 

yaDzpartmenlalBlgs D.4, 

;hy:m.(7.^. "0.:i. 



QUEBEC. Route 68. 255 



68. auebec. 

Arrival. — If the traveller has much baggage, it is best to take a carriage or 
the hotel oinnibus to the Upper Town. The cnleche is not adapted for carrying lug- 
gage. 

Hotels. — The *St. Louis Hotel is a large house near the Dufferin Terrace, 
kept by Willis Russell, an American gentleman. It accommodates 500 guests, and 
charges $ 2.50-3.50 a day. The Russell House is a large modern hotel, near the St. 
Louis, and under the same management. Its terms are lower than those of the St. 
Louis. The Albion Hotel is on Palace St., and charges $2.50 a day^. Honchey's 
Hotel (on St. Anne St., opposite the Anglican Cathedral) is quiet and moderate, for 
gentlemen travelling en gargon. The Mountain-Hill House, on Mountain- Hill St. , 
and Blanchard's Hotel, in the Lower Town, opposite Notre Dame des Victoires, are 
second-class houses, charging about $ 1.50 a day. 

There are several good boarding-houses in the Upper Town, among which are 
those of the Misses Leonard, 3 St. Louis St. ; Mrs. McDonell, 12 St. Louis St ; Miss 
Lane, 41 St> Anne St. ; Mrs. Boyce, 1 Garden St. Comfortable quarters may be ob- 
tained at these houses for about $ 10 a week. 

Carriages in every variety may be procured at the livery-stables, and large 
numbers of them are kept at the stands near the St. Louis Hotel, in front of the Ca- 
thedral, and beyond St. John's- Gate. The carriages in the Lower Town are less ele- 
gant and much less expensive than those within the walls. The rates for excursions 
in the suburbs in summer are from $S to ^4 for 1-3 persons (to Montmorenci 
Falls, Lorette, Cap Rouge, etc.). During the autumn the rates are reduced. The 
ca^ec/ie-drivers of the Lower Town usually demand $2 for carrying 1-2 persons to 
the outer suburban resorts. The caleche is a singular and usually very shabby- 
looking vehicle, perched on two high wheels, with the driver sitting on a narrow 
ledge in front. It is drawn by a homely but hardy little horse, and is usually driven 
by a French Canadian, who urges the horse forward by the sharp dissyllabic cry, 
•■' Marche-donc ! '' 

Horse- Cars run between St. Ours, St. Sauveur, and the Champlain Market, 
every 15 minutes, traversing St. Joseph, St. Paul, and St. Peter Sts. The fare 
is 5c. 

Reading-Kooms. — The elegant library of the Quebec Literary and His- 
torical Society (in Morrin College) is courteously opened to the visits of strangers. 
The Library of Parliament is also accessible, and is finely arranged. The Institut 
Canadien is at 57 Fabrique St. ; and the Y. M. C. Association Hall is a splendid 
building, erected in 1879-80, on St. John St., just outside the gate. 

Post-Office at the corner of Buade and Du Fort Sts. According to the new 
rules of the Canadian postal service, stamps are not sold at the post-offices, but are 
kept on sale by the booksellers. 

The most attractive shops are on Fabrique and St. John Sts., and in the vicinity 
of the French Cathedral, or Basilica. 

Kailways. — The Grand Trunk Railway has its terminal station at Point Levi, 
317 M. from Portland, 425 M. from Boston, and 586 M. from New York. Passengers 
take the Grand Trunk ferry-steamer near the Champlain Market. The North Shore 
Railway runs from Quebec to Montreal and Ottawa, along the N. shore of the St. 
Lawrence. The Quebec and Lake St. John Railway runs to St. Raymond, a hand- 
some French village of 1,600 inhabitants, 42 M. distant, and is being prolonged to 
Lake St. John. Stages run from its station of St. Ambroise to Indian Lorette and 
from Valcartier Station to Valcartier. 

Steamships. — The steamships of the Allan line leave Quebec for Lough Foyle 
and Liverpool and Glasgow every Saturday, during the season of summer-navigation. 
The Dominion Line also sends steamships weekly to Liverpool. The vessels of the 
Quebec S. S. Co. leave every week for Father Point, 176 M. ; Metis, 207 ; Gaspp, 
443 ; Perc^, 472 ; Summerside, 710 ; Charlottetown, 784 ; and Pictou, 829. The St. 
Lawrence S N. Co. runs to Bay St. Paul, 55 M. ; Eboulement, 66; Murray Bay, 
82j Riviere du Loup, 112 ; Tadousac, 134 ; L'Anse St. Jean, 166 ; Ha ! Ha ! Bay, 
207; Chicoutimi, 235. Smaller boats run to Pointe aux Trembles, 21, Les Eeu- 
reuils, 27; Platon and Portneuf, 36 ; Deschambault, 45 ; Grondines, 48; and St. 
Anne de la Perade, 58 ; also to St. Lambert, 9 ; and St. Jean, 17 ; also, during the 
pilgrimage-season, to St. Anne de Beaupre. Ferry-boats run to Point Levi several 
times an hour ; and to the Isle of Orleans. 



256 Route es. QUEBEC. 

Quebec, "the Gibraltar of America," and the second cih' in the Do- 
minion of Canada, is sitnated on a rocky promontory at the continence of 
the St. Lawrence and St. Charles Rivers, ISO M. from Montreal, and over 
400 ]\I. from the Gulf of St. Lawrence. It has about 75,000 inhabitants, 
with 6 banks, G Masonic lodges, and numerous newspapers in the French 
and the English languages. The chief business of the city is in the hand- 
ling and exportation of lumber, of which $5-7,000,000 worth is sent 
away annually. There are long lines of coves along the St. Lawrence 
shore, above the city, arranged for the reception and protection of the 
vast rafts which come down from the northern forests. A very consid- 
erable export trade in grain is also done here, and the various supplies 
of the populous counties to the N. and E. are drawn from this point. 
Ship-building is a leading industry, and many vessels of the largest size 
have been launched from the shipyards on the St. Charles; but the business 
has fallen oft' very considerably of late. Of late years several important 
manufactories have been established in the Lower Town, and the city is 
expected to derive great benefit from the convergence here of several 
lines of railway, connecting with the transatlantic steamships, and making 
it a depot of immigration and of freighting. The introduction of an abun- 
dant and poworf\d water supply from Lake St. Charles and the establish- 
ment of a fire-brigade and alarm-telegraph have preserved the city, during 
late years, from a recurrence of the terrible fires with which it was for- 
merly scourged. A second main was laid in 1883. 

Quebec is built nearly in the form of a triangle, bounded by the two 
rivers and the Plains of Abraham, and is divided into the Upper Town 
and Lower Town, the former standing on an enwalled and strongly forti- 
fied bluft'350 ft. high, while the latter is built on the contracted strands 
between the clitls and the rivers. The streets are narrow, crooked, and 
often very steep, and the houses are generally built of cut stone, in a style 
of severe simplicity. It is the most quaint, picturesque, and mediaeval- 
looking city in America, and is surrounded by beautiful suburbs. 

" Take mountain and plain, sinuous river, and broad, tranquil waters, stately 
ship and tinv boat, CTutle hill and shady valley, bold headland and rich, fruitful 
fields, frowning battlement and cheerful villa, glittering dome and rural sph-e, tiow- 
ery garden and sombre foi-est, — group them all into the choicest picture of ideal 
beauty vonr fancy can create, arch it over with a cloudless sky, light it up with a 
radiant "sun, and "lest the sheen should be too dazzling, hang a veil of lighted haze 
over all, to soften the lines and perfect the repose, — you will then have seen Quebec 
on this September morning." (EuoT Wariu'rton. ) 

" Quebec ivcalls Angouieme to my mind : in the upper city, stairways, narrow 
streets, ancient houses on the verge of the cliiT: in the lower city, the new fortunes, 
commerce, workmen ; — in both, many shops and much activity.'' (M. Sand ) 

" The scenic Ix-anty of Quebec has been the theme of general eulogy. The majestic 
appearance of Cape Diamond and the fortifications, — the cupolas and minarets, like 
those of an Eastern city, blazing and sparkling in the sun, — the loveliness of the 
panorama, —the noble'basin, like a sheet of purest silver, in which might ride with 
safety a hundi-ed sail of the line, — the graceful meandering of the river St. Charles, 
— the uui\ierons village spires on either side of the St. Lawrence, — the fertile fields 
dotted with innumei-able cottages, the abodes of a rich and moral peasantry, — the 
distant F.tjls of Montmoivncl, — the park-like scenery of Point Levi, — the beauteous 
Isle of Orleans, — and moi'e distant still, the fi owning Cape Tourrueute, and the lofty 



QUEBEC. Route 68. 257 

range of purple mountains of the most picturesque forms which bound the prospect, 
unite to form a coup rPatH, which, without exaggeration, is scarcely to be surpassed 
in any part of the world.'' (Hawkins. ) 

" I rubbed my eyes to be sure that 1 was in the ninetoentli century, and was not 
entering onii of those portals wliich sometimes adorn tlie frontispiece of old black- 
letter volumes. I thought it would be a good place to read Froissart's Chronicles. 
It was sucli a reminiscence of the Middle Ages as Scott's novels. 

" Too much has not been said about the scenery of Quebec. The fortifications of 
Cape Dian^ond are onuiipresent. You travel 10, 20, 80 M. up or down the river's 
banks, you ramble 15 M. among the hills on cither side, and then, when you have 
long since forgotten tliem, perchance slept on them by the way, at a turn of the 

road or of your body, there they are still, with their geometry against the sky 

No wonder if Jaques Cartier's pilot exclaimed in Norman-H'rencli, Que. bed ( ' What 
a peak! ') when he saw this cape, as some suppose. Every modern traveller invol- 
untarily uses a similar expression The view from Cape Diamond has been 

compared by European travellers with the most remai'kable views of a similar kind 
in Europe, such as from Edinbui'gh Castle, Gibraltar, Ciutra, and others, and pre- 
ferred -by many. A main peculiarity in this, compared with other views which I 
have beheld, is that it is from the ramparts of a fortified city, and not from a soli- 
tary and majestic river cape alone that this view is obtained I still remember 

the harbor far beneath me, sparkling like silver in the sun, — the answering head- 
lands of Point Levi on the S. E , — the frowning Cape Tourmente abruptly bounding 
the seaward view far in the N. E., — the villages of Lorette and Charlesbourg on the 
N., — and farther \V. the distant Val Cartier, sparkling with white cottages, hardly 
removed by distance through the clear air, — not to mention a few biue mountains 
along the horizon iu that direction. You look out from the ramparts of the citadel 
beyond the frontiers of civilization. Yonder small group of hills, according to the 
guide-book, forms ' the portal of the wilds which are trodden only by the feet of the 
Indian hunters as far as Hudson's Bay.' " (Thoreau.) 

" There is no city in America more famous in the annals of history than Quebec, 
and few on the continent of Europe more picturesquely situated. Whilst the sur- 
rounding scenery reminds one of the unrivalled views of the Eosphorus, the airy site 
of the citadel ard town calls to mind Inuspruck and Edinburgh. Quebec may be best 
described by supposing that an ancient Norman fortress of two centuries ago had 
been encased in amber, transportea by magic to Canada, and placed ou the summit 
of Cape Diamond." 

" Quebec, at least for an American city, is certainly a very peculiar place. A mili- 
tary town, containing about 20,000 inhabitants ; most compactly and permanently 
built, —stone its sole material ; environed, as to its most important parts, by walls 
and gates, and defended by numerous heavy cannon ; . . . . founded upon a rock, 
and in its highest parts overlooking a great extent of country; 3-400 miles from 
the ocean, in the midst of a great continent, and yet displaying fleets of foreign mer- 
chantmen in its fine, capacious bay, and showing all the bustle of a crowded sea- 
port ; its streets narrow, populous, and winding up and down almost mountainous 
declivities ; situated in the latitude of the finest parts of Europe, exhibiting iu its 
environs the beauty of a European capital, and yet in winter smarting with the cold 
of Siberia ; governed by a people of difierent language and habits from the mass of 
the population, opposed in religion, and yet leaving that population without taxes, 
and in the enjoyment of every privilege, civil and religious : such are the prominent 
features which strike a stranger in the city of Quebec. A seat of ancient Dominion, 
— now hoary with the lapse of more than two centuries, ^ — formerly the seat of a 
French empire in the west, — lost and won by the blood of gallant armies, and of 
illustrious commanders, — throned on a rock, and defended by all the proud defiance 
of war ! Who could approach such a city without emotion ! Who in Canada has 
not longed to cast his eyes on the water-girt rocks and towers of Quebec." (Prop. 
SiiJ.iMAN ; in 1820.) 

" Few cities offer so many striking contrasts as Quebec. A fortress and a com- 
mercial city together, built upon the summit of a rock like the nest of an eagle, 
while her vessels are everywhere wrinkling the face of the ocean ; an American city 
inhabited by French colonists, governed by England, and garrisoned by Scotch 
regiments ; a city of the Middle Ages by most of its ancient institutions, while it is 
subject to all the combinations of modern constitutional government; a European 
city by its civilization and its habits of refinement, and still close by the remnants 
of the Indian tribes and the barren mts. of the North ; a city with about the same 

Q 



258 Route 68. QUEBEC. 

latitude as Paris, while successively combining the torrid climate of southern regions 
with the Keverities of an hyperborean winter ; a city at the same time Catholic and 
Protestant, where the labors of our (French) missions are still uninterruijted along- 
side of the undertakings of the Bible Society, and where the Jesuits, driven out of 
our own country, find refuge under the aegis of British Puritanism." (X. Marmier's 
Letlres sur V Ameriqiie , 18G0.) 

" Leaving the citadel, we are once more in the European Middle Ages. Gates and 
posterns, cranky steps that lead up to lofty, gabled houses, with sharp French roofs 
of burni.shed tin, like tho.se of Liege; processions of the Ilost ; aliars decked with 
flowers ; statues of the Virgin ; sabots ; blouses ; and the scarlet of the British lines- 
man, — all these are seen in narrow streets and markets that are graced with many 
a Cotentin lace cap, and all within 40 miles of the down-east, Yankee State of Maine. 
It is not far from New England to Old France. '. . . . There has been no dying out 
of the race among the French Canadians. They number twenty times the thousands 
that they did 100 years ago. The American soil has left their physical type, re- 
ligion, language, and laws absolutely untouched. They herd together in their 
rambling villages, dance to the fiddle after mass on Sundays, — as gayly as once did 
their Norman sires, — and keep up the fieur-de-lys and the memory of Monttaim. 
More French than the French are the Lower Canada habitans. The pulse-beat of the 
continent finds no echo here." (Sir Charles Dilke.) 

"Curious old Quebec I of all the cities of the continent of America the most 
quaint! It is a peak thickly populated I a gigantic rock, escarped, echeloned, and 
at the same time smoothed off to hold firmly on its summit the houses and castles, 
although according to the ordinary laws of matter they ought to fall off hke a bur- 
den placed on a camel's back without a fastening. Yet the [houses and castles hold 
there as if they were nailed down. At the foot of the rock some feet of land have 
been reclaimed from the river, and that is for the streets of the Lower Town. Que- 
bec is a dried shred of the Middle Ages, hung high up near the North Pole, far from 
the beaten paths of the European tourists, .... a curiosity without parallel on 
this .side of the ocean. We traversed each street as we would have turned the leaves 
of a book of engravings, containing a new painting on each page The local- 
ity ought to be scrupulously preserved antique. Let modern progress be carried 
elsewhere I When Quebec has taken the pains to go and perch herself away up 
near Hudson's Bay, it would be cruel and unfitting to dare to harass her with new 
ideas, and to speak of doing away with the narrow and tortuous streets that charm 
all travellers, in order to seek conformity with the fantastic ideas of comfort in 
vogue in the 19th century." (Henry VV^ard Beecher.) 

" On I'a dit, Quebec est un promontoire, c'est avant tout une forteresse remarqua- 
ble. La citadelle s'eleve au-dessus de la ville et mire dans les eaux du fleuve ses 
cr(^neaux brants. Le voyageur s'etonne, apres avoir admire les bords verdoyants et 
fleurjs du Saint-Laurent, les forets aux puissantes ramures pleines de mysteres et 
d'ombre, les riantes vallees pleines de bruits et de rayons, de rencontrer tout k coup 
cette ville qui semble venir d'Europe et qui serait moins etrange sur les bords du 
Rhin aux dramatiques legendes. Mais Quebec n'est pas unc ville ou I'l' tranger vienne 

se distraire et chercher d'oubli un theatre i grands luxes, a grands spectacles 

C'est peut-etre la seule ville du monde ou les gens aient droit de se plaindre et oii 
ils ne se plaignent pas. J'ai tcrit que Quebec est une forteresse remarquable ; 
elle clfeve son front superbe et se cambre avec fierte dans sa robe de pierre. Elle a 
conserve un air des temps chevaleresques, elle a soutenu des si ges, elle a reiju son 
bapteme du feu. En longeant ces vieux murs, en admirant cette forteresse t'levce 
conime un nid d'aigle sur un roc sourcilleux, on se croirait dans une ville du moyen 
Sige, au temps des factions et des guerres civiles, une de ces villes accoutumees aux 
bruits des armes, aux fanfares et aux hymnes guerriers, mais tout est silencieux dans 
la nuit sereine, et vous n'entendez meme pas le pace cadence d'une sentinelle. 
Dans cette ville et aux alentours, que d'evenements out etc accompli ! Quelle lutte 
pleine de poesie ht'roique I Que de vicissitudes ! et quel courage ! En quelque lieu 
que vous alliez, a la basse-ville, sur le chemin Saint-Louis ou Sainte-Foye, sur les 
rives de la riviere Saint-Charles, tout respire un parfum historique, tout parle a voa 
yeux, tout a une voix qui exprime quelque chose de grand et de triste, et les pierrea 
mguies sout autour de vous comme les lantdmes qui reliechlsseut le passe." 



QUEBEC. Route 68. 259 

The Dufferin Terrace is on the riverward edge of the Upper Town, and 
be"-ins on the buttresses and platform formerly occupied by the Chateau 
of St. Louis, which was built b}'- Champlain in 1G20, and extends for a 
quarter of a mile to the base of the citadel, making it the longest prome- 
nade of the sort in the world. It was opened on June 10, 1879, by the 
Marquis of Lome and the Princess Louise, in the presence of 10,000 people. 
The old Chateau was a massive stone structure, 200 ft. long, used for a 
fortress, prison, and governor's palace, and it stood until 1834, when it was 
ruined by lire. The terrace is 182 ft. above the river, and commands a 
* view of surpassing beauty. Immediately below are the sinuous streets 
of the Lower Town, with its wharves projecting into the stream.' On one 
side are the lofty fortilied bluffs of Point Levi, and on the other the St. 
Charles River winds away down its peaceful valley. The white houses of 
Beauport stretch off to the vicinity of the Montmorenci Falls, while be- 
vond are seen the farms oC L'Ange Gardien, extending towards the 
heights of St. Fereol. Vessels of all classes and sizes are anchored in the 
broad basin and the river, and the rich and verdant Isle of Orleans is in 
mid-stream below. Beyond, and over all, are the bold peaks of the Lau- 
rentian range, with Cape Tourmente towering over the river. The Terrace 
is the favorite promenade of the citizens, and presents an attractive scene 
in the late afternoon or on pleasant Sundays. On the site of the Old 
Chateau erected in 1779 for the British Governors a great modern hotel 
is in process of construction. 

" There is not ia the world a nobler outlook than that from the Terrace at Que- 
bec. You stand upon a rock overhanging city and river, and look down upon the 
guard-ships' masts. Aci'e upon acre of timber comes iloating down the stream 
above the city, the Canadian boat-songs just reaching you upon the heights; and 
beneath you are lleets of great ships, English, German, French, and Dutch, embark- 
ing the timber from the floating docks. The Stars and Stripes are nowhere to be 
seen." (Sir Cuarles Dilke.) 

" On a summer evening, when the Terrace is covered with loungers, and when 
Point Levi is sprinkled with lights and the Lower Town has illuminated its narrow 
streets and its long dormer-windows, while the lively murmur of business is ascend- 
ing and the eye can discern the great shadows of the ships beating into port, the 
scene is one of marvellous animation. It is then, above all, that one is struck with 
the resemblance between Quebec and the European cities ; it might be called a city 
of France or Italy transplanted ; the physiognomy is the same, and daylight is 
needed to mark the alteration of features produced by the passage to America.-' 

" At a later era, when, under the protection of the French kings, the Provinces 
had aci^uired the rudiments of military strength and power, the Castle of St, Louis 
was remarkable as having been the site Avhence the French governors exercised an 
immense sovereignty, extending from the Gulf of St. Lawrence, along the shores of 
that noble river, its magnificent lakes, and down the course of the Missisiippi to its 
outlet below New Orleans. The banner which first streamed from the battlements 
of Quebec was displayed from a chain of forts which protected the settlements 
throughout this vast extent of country, keeping the English Colonies in constant 
alarm, and securing the fidelity of the Indian nations. During this period the coun- 
cil chamber of the castle was the scene of many a midnight vigil, many a long delib- 
eration and deep-laid project, to free the continent from the intrusion of the ancient 
rival of France, and assert throughout the supremacy of the Gallic lily. At another 
period, subsequent to the surrender of Quebec to the British arms, and until the 
recognition of the independence of the United States, the extent of empire of which 
the Castle of Quebec was the principal seat comprehended the whole American con- 
tinent north of Mexico." (1I.\wk.ins.) 



260 Route 68. QUEBEC. 

The Anglican Cathedral occupies the site of the ancient Recollet Con- 
vent and gardens, and is a plain and massive building, 135 ft. long, with 
a spire 152 ft. high. It was built by the British government in 1803-4, 
and received its superb communion-service, altar-cloths, and books as a 
present from King George III. There is a chime of 8 bells in the tower, 
which makes pleasant music on Sundays; and the windows are of rich 
stained glass. The interior is plain and the roof is supported on Corinthian 
pillars and pilasters, while over the chancel hang the old Crimean colors 
of the 69th Eegiment of the British army. Under the altar lie the remains 
of Charles Lennox, Duke of Richmond, Lennox, and Aubigny, and Gov- 
ei'nor-General of Canada, who died of hydrophobia in 1819. There are 
numerous mural monuments in the cathedral, and in the chancel are the 
memorials to the early Anglican Bishops of Quebec, Jacob Mountain and 
Charles James Stewart. The former consists of a bust of the Bishop, 
alongside of which is a statue of Religion, both in relief, in white marble, 
on a background of black marble. 

Dr. Mountain was in the presence of King George, when he expressed a 
doubt as to whom he should appoint as bishop of the new See of Quebec. 
Said the doctor, "If your Majesty had faith, there would be no difficult}'." 
"How so? " said the king. Mountain answered, " If you had faith, you 
would say to this Mountain, Be thou removed into that See, and it would 
■be done." It was. 

Between the cathedral and the Dufferin Terrace is a pretty little park 
called the Place d''Armes, beyond which are the crumbling ruins of the 
court-house, destroyed by fire in 1871. Beyond the court-house (on St. 
Louis St.) is the Masonic Hall, opposite which are the old-time structures 
of the St. Louis Hotel and the ancient Crown-Lands building, known as the 
Kent House, from the fact that Prince Edward, the Duke of Kent (father 
of Queen Victoria), dwelt here during his long sojourn at Quebec. Oppo- 
site the St. Louis Hotel is a quaint little building (now used as a barber- 
shop), in which Montcalm held his last council of war. St. Louis St. runs 
out through the ramparts, traversing a quiet and solidly built quarter, and 
is prolonged beyond the walls as the Grand All^e, passing the magnifi- 
cent new Parliament Buildings. 

The * Market Square is near the centre of the Upper Town. The Jesuits' 
College has recently been torn down, and its place remains drearily empty. 
Markets are not now held on the Square, but outside St. John's Gate. 

" A few steps had brought them to the market-square in front of the cathedral, 
■where a little belated traffic still lingered in the few old peasant-women hovering 
over baskets of ?uch fruits and vegetables as had long been out of season in the 
States, and the housekeepers and servants cheapening these wares. A sentry moved 
mechanically up and down before the high portal of the Jesuit Barracks, over the 
arch of which were still the letters I. H. S. carved long ago on the keystone ; and 
the ancient edifice itself, with its yellow stucco front and its grated windows, had 
every right to be a monastery turned barracks in France or Italy. A row of quaint 
stone houses — inns and shops — formed the upper side of the square, while the 
modern buildings of the Rue Fabrique on the lower side might serve very well for 



QUEBEC. Route 68. 261 

that show of improvement which deepens the sentiment of the neighboring antiquity 
and decay in Latin towns. As for the cathedral, which faced the convent from 
across the square, it was as cold and torpid a bit of Renaissance as could be found 
in Rome itself. A red-coated soldier or two passed through the square : three or 
four neat little French policemen lounged about in blue uniforms and flaring 
havelocks ; some walnut-faced, blue-eyed old citizens and peasants sat upon the 
thresholds of the row of old houses and gazed dreamily through the smoke of their 
pipes at the slight stir and glitter of shopping about the fine stores of the Rue 
i'abrique. An air of serene disoccupation pervaded the place, with which the 
drivers of the long rows of calashes and can-iages in front of the cathedral did not 
discord. Whenever a stray American wandered into the square, there was a wild 
flight of these drivers towards him, and his person was lost to sight amidst their 
pantomime. They did not try to underbid each other, and they were perfectly good- 
humored. As soon as he had made his choice, the rejected multitude returned to 
their places on the curbstone, pursuing the successful aspirant with inscrutable 
jokes as he drove ofiF, while the horses went on munching the contents of their 
leathern head-bags, and tossing them into the air to shake down the lurking grains 
of corn." (HoWELLs's A Chance Acquaintance.) 

The magnificent new Parliament and Departmental Buildings are on 

the Grand Allee, on high ground outside the St. Louis Gate, and vi-ere begun 
in 1878. The halls of the It^cal Parliament were begun in 1882. The 
buildings are of gray stone, very large and massive, and present an impos- 
ing appearance when seen from the ramparts, or from the distant valley 
villages. It was at one time intended to have built the new Parliament 
House on the site of the Jesuits' College, a vast quadrangular pile, 224 by 
200 ft. in area, founded in 16-46, and demolished about five years ago, after 
a long period of desertion and dilapidation. 

The Jesuits' College was founded in 1637, one year before Harvard College, 
and performed a noble work in its day. It was suspended in 1759 by Gen. 
Murray, who quartered his troops here, and in 1809 the property reverted to the 
crown, on the death of the last of the Jesuit Fathers. The buildings were used 
as barracks until the British armies evacuated Canada " From this seat of piety 
and learning issued those dauntless missionaries, who made the Gospel known 
over a space of 600 leagues, and preached the Christian faith from the St. Law. 
rence to the Mississippi. In this pious work many suffered death in the most 
cruel form ; all underwent danger and privation for a series of years, with a con- 
stancy and patience that must always command the wonder of the historian and 
the admiration of posterity." 

The * Basilica of Quebec is on the E. side of the Market Square, and 
was known as the Cathedral of Notre Dame until 1874, when it was 
elevated by Pope Pius IX. to the rank of a basilica. It was founded in 
1666 by Bishop Laval, and was destroyed by the bombardment from 
Wolfe's batteries in 1759. The present building dates from the era of the 
Conquest, and its exterior is quaint, irregular, and homely. From its 
towers the Angelus bells sound at 6 o'clock in the morning and 6 in the 
evening. The interior is heavy, but not unpleasing, and accommodates 
4,000 persons. The High Altar is well adorned, and there are several 
chapels in the aisles. The most notable pictures in the Basilica are, "** the 
Crucifixion, hjVan Dych (" the Christ of the Cathedral"; the finest paint- 
ing in Canada), on the first pillar 1. of the altar; the Ecstasy of St. Paul, 
Carlo Maratti ; the Annunciation, Restout ; the Baptism of Christ, Halle ; 
the Pentecost, Vignon; Miracles of St. Anne, Plamondon ; Angels waiting 



262 Route 68. QUEBEC. . 

on Christ, Restout (in the choir); the Nativity, copy from Annihale Ca- 
racci; Holy Family, Blanchard. 

The Basilica occupies the site of the ancient church of Notre Dame de la Recou- 
vrance, built in 1633 by Champlair , in memory of the recoTery of Canada by France. 
Within its walls are buried Bishops Laval and Plessis ; Champlain, the heroic ex- 
plorer, founder and first Governor of Quebec ; and the Count de Frontenac, the 
fiery and chivalric Governor of Canada from 1688 to 1698. Alter his death his 
heart was enclosed in a leaden casket and sent to his widow, in France, but the 
proud countess refused to receive it, saying that she would not have a dead heart, 
which, while living, had not been hers. The noble lady (" the marvellously beautiful 
Anne de la Grand-Trianon, surnamed The Divine'") was the friend of Madame 
de S(^vign?, and was alienated from Frontenac on account of his love-affair with 
the brilliant Versaillaise, Madame de Montespan. 

Most of the valuable paintings in the Basilica, and elsewhere in Canada, vrere 
bought in France at the epoch of the Revolution of 1793, when the churches and 
convents had been pillaged of their treasures of art. Many of them were purchased 
from their captors, and sent to the secure shores of New France. 

Back of the Basilica, on Port Dauphin St., is the extensive palace of 
the Archbishop, surrounded by quiet gardens. To the E. are the Parlia- 
ment Building and the Grand Battery. 

The * Seminary of Quebec adjoins the Cathedral on the N., and covers 
several acres with its piles of quaint and rambling buildings and quiet 
and sequestered gardens. It is divided into Le Grand Seminaire and Le 
Petit Seminaire, the former being devoted to Roman-Catholic theology and 
the education of priests. The Minor Seminary is for the study of litera- 
ture and science (for boys)^ and the course extends over nine years. 
Boarders pay $150 a year, exclusive of washing, music, and draw- 
ing. The students may be recognized in the streets by their peculiar 
uniform. The quadracgle, with its old and irregular buildings ; the spot- 
less neatness of the grounds ; the massive Avails and picturesquely outlined 
groupings, will claim the interest of the visitor. 

" No such building could be seen anywhere save in Quebec, or in some ancient 
provincial town in Normandy. You ask for one of the gentlemen (priests), and you 
are inti'oduced to his modest apartment, where you find him in his sou'ajie, with all 
the polish, learning, and boyiliommie of the nineteenth century." Visitors are con- 
ductt'd over the building in a courteous manner. 

The Seminary Cliapel has some fine paintings (beginning at the r. of the en- 
trance): the Saviour and the Samaritan Woman, La Gren e ; the Virgin attended 
by Angels, Dieu; the Crucifixion, Monet; the Hermits of the Thebaid, Ouillot; 
the Vision of St. Jerome, D' Hidlin ; the Ascension, Philippe de Champagne ; the 
Burial of Christ, Hutin ; (over the altar) the Flight into Egypt, Vanlno ; above 
which is a picture of Angels, Lebriin : the Trance of St. Anthonj', Farrocd 
cf Avignon ; the Day of Pentecost, P. de Champagne ; St. Peter freed from Prison, Be 
la Fosse; The Baptism of Christ, Ha lie ; St. Jerome Writing, J. B. Champagne ; 
Adoration of the Magi, Bonnicu. ''The Chapel on the r. of the chief altar con- 
tains the relics of St. Clement ; that on the 1. the relics of St. Modestus." 

The Seminary of Quebec was founded in 1663 by M de Laval, who endowed it with 
all his great wealth. The first buildings were erected in 1666, and the present Semi- 
nary is composed of edifices constructed at different dates since that time. In 1865 
a large part of the quadrangle was burnt, but it has since been restored. In 1704 
there were 54 teachers and students ; in 1810 there were 110 ; and there are now over 
400 (exclusive of the University students). " When we awake its departed shades, 
they rise upon us from their graves, in strange romantic guise. Men steeped in 
antique learning, pale with the close breath of the cloister, here spent the noon and 
evening of their lives, ruled savage hordes with a mild paternal sway, and ttood 



QUEBEC. Route 68. 263 

serene before the direst shapes of death. Men of courtly natures, heirs to the polish 
of a far-reaching ancestry, here with their dauntless hardihood put to shame the 
boldest sons of toil." 

The * Laval University is between the Seminary gardens and the ram- 
parts, and may be reached from St. Famille St. The main building is 280 ft. 
long and 5 stories high, is built of cut stone, and cost $ 225,000. The roof is a 
flat sanded platform, securely enrailed, where the students promenade and 
enjoy the grand * view of the city, the river, and the Laurentian Mts. Vis- 
itors are admitted to tlie collections of the University on application to the 
janitor. The reception-rooms contain the great picture of the Madonna of 
Quebec, a portrait ofPius IX., by Posywafoyii, and other paintings. The large 
hall of convocation has seats for 2,000, Avith galleries for ladies. The chem- 
ical laboratory is a fire-pi'oof chamber, modelled after that of King's Col- 
lege, London; and the dissecting-room is spacious and well arranged. The 
* mineral museum was prepared by the late Abb^ Haiiy, an eminent 
scientist, and contains specimens of the stones, ores, and minerals of 
Canada, Avith a rare and valuable collection of crystals. It fills a long 
series of apartments, from which the visitor is ushered into the ethnologi- 
cal and zoological cabinets. Here are a great number of Indian remains, 
implements, and weapons, and other Huron antiquities; Avith prepared 
specimens of Canadian animals and fish. The Library contains 70,000 
volumes (about half of Avhich are French), arranged in tAvo spacious halls, 
from Avhose AvindoAvs delightful vicavs are obtained. The * Picture-Gal- 
lery has lately been opened to the public, and is the richest in Canada. 
The works are mostly copies from the old masters, though there are sev- 
eral undoubted originals. It is by far the finest gallery N. of Ncav York, 
and should be carefully studied. The visitor should also see the brilliant 
collection of Canadian birds; and the costly philosophical and medical 
apparatus, imported from Paris. The extensive dormitories occupy sub- 
stantial stone buildings near the University, OA^er the gardens. 

The Seminary was founded in 1663 by Francois de Montmorenci Laval, first Bishop 
of Quebec, and has been the central poAver of the Catholic Church in this Province 
for over two centuries. The Laval University was founded in 1852, and has had the 
privileges of a Catholic University accorded to it by Pope Pius IX. The processes 
of study are modelled on those of the University of Louvain. The department of 
arts has 14 professors, the law has 6, divinity has 5, and medicine has 8. There are 
also 24 professors in the Minor Seminary. 

The Parliament Building is on the site of Champlain's fort and the old 
Episcopal Palace, and is an extensive but plain building, whose glory has 
departed since the decapitalization of Quebec. The LegislatiA'e Council 
of the Province meets in a pleasant hall, upholstered and carpeted in crim- 
son, with a very large throne, over which is a canopy surmounted by the 
arms of the United Kingdom. There are spacious galleries for visitors. 
The hall of the House of Assembly is on the front of the building, and is 
upholstered in gi-een. Back of the speaker's chair is a line of Corinthian 
pilasters upholding a pediment on which are the Eoyal Arms. The ^ Li- 



264 Houte 68. QUEBEC. 

hrary occupies a large and qniet apartment on the first floor, and is rich in 
French-Canadian literature. Such glory as was left after the decapitaliza- 
tion, hereinbefore referred to, was conclusively removed on the night of 
April 19, 1883, when the old Parliament Building (except part of its west 
wing) was destroyed by fire. 

Mountain-nUl St. descends by the place of the Prescott Gate, to the 
Lower Town, winding down the slope of the chff. On the r., about ^ of 
the way down, are the * Champlain Steps, or Cote la Montagne, a steep, 
crowded, and picturesque stairway leading down to Notre Dame des 
Victoires (see page 271). Kear the foot of the steps is a grating, over the 
place where the remains of Champlain were recently found, in the vault 
of an ancient chapel. The Cote la IMontagne has reminded one author 
of Xaples and Trieste, another of Venice and Trieste, and another of 
Malta. 

The new Post-Office is a handsome stone building at the corner of Buade 
and Du Fort Sts. In its front wall is a figure of a dog, carved in the stone 
and gilded, under which is the inscription : — 

" Je siiis un chien qui ronge I'os ; {" I am a dog gnawing a bone. 

En le rongeant je prend mon repos. While I gnaw I take my repose. 

Un temps viendra qui n'est pas venu The lime will come, though not yet, 

Que je mordrais qui m'aura mordu." When I will bite him who now Bites me.") 

This lampoon was aimed at the Intendant Bigot by M. Philibert, who had 
suffered wrong from him, but soon after the carved stone had been put 
into the front of Philibert's hovTse, that gentleman was assassinated by an 
officer of the garrison. The murderer exchanged into the East Indian 
army, but was pursued by Philibert's brother, and was killed, at Pondi- 
cherry, after a severe conflict. 

The Post-Office occupies the site of the Grand Place of the early French town, on 
which encamped the Huron tribe, sheltered by the fort from the attacks of the piti- 
less Iroquois. Here afterwards lived the beautiful Miss Prentice, with whom Nelson 
fell in lore, so that he had to be forced on board of his ship to get him away. " Hovr 
many changes would have ensued on the map of Europe I how many now horizons in 
history, if Nelson had deserted the naval service of his country in 1782 ! Without 
doubt, Napoleon would have given law to the entire world. His supremacy on the 
sea would have consolidated his rule over the European continent ; and that because 
an amorous young naval officer was seized by a passion for a bewitching Canadian 
girl I " Near this place the Duke of Clarence, then a subaltern of the fleet, but 
afterwards King William lY. of England, followed a young lady home in an un- 
seemly manner, and was caught by her father and very soundly horsewhipped. 

The * Ursuline Convent is entered from Garden St., and is a spacious 
pile of buildings, commenced in 1686, and covering 7 acres with its gardens 
and offices. There are 40 nuns, who are devoted to teaching girls, and 
also to working in embroidery, painting, and fancy articles. The parlors 
and chapel may be visited by permission of the chaplain (whose oflSce is 
adjacent); and in the latter are some valuable paintings: * Christ at the 
Pharisee's House, by Philippe de Champagne ; Saints Nonus and Pelagius, 
Prndhonime ; the Saviour Preaching, P. de Champagne ; the Miraculous 
Draught of Fish, Le Dieu de Jouvenet ; Captives at Algiers, Restout ; St. 



QUEBEC. Route 68. 265 

Peter, Spanish School ; and several others. In the shrines are relics of St. 
Clement Martyr, and other saints from the Roman catacombs. Within a 
grave made by a shell which bui-st in this chapel during the bombardment 
of 1759 is buried "the High and Mighty Lord, Louis Joseph, Marquis of 
Montcalm," and over his remains is the inscription, "Honneur a Mont- 
calm! Le destin en lui d^robant de la victoire I'a recompense par nne 
mort glorieuse." Montcalm's skull is carefully preserved under glass, and 
is shown as an object worthy of great veneration. 

The first Superior of the Ursuline Convent was Mother Marie de I'Incamation, 
who was "revered as the St. Tex-esa of her time." She mastered the Huron and 
Algonquin languages, and her letters to France form one of the most valuable rec- 
ords of the early days of Canada. The convent was founded in 1G39, when the first 
abbess landed in Quebec amid the salutes of the castle-batteries ; and the special 
.work of the nuns was that of educating the Indian girls. The convent was burnt 
down in 1650, and again in 1683,. when the Ursulines were sheltered by the Hopital- 
ieres. The Archbishop has recently ordered that the term of profession shall be for 
seven years, instead of for life. 

Morrin College occupies a massive stone building at the corner of 
St. Anne and Stanislas Sts., and is the only non-Episcopal Protestant col- 
lege in the 'Province. It was founded by Dr. Morrin, and has 5 professors, 
but has hadlbut little success as an educational institution. The build- 
ing was erected by the Government in 1810, for a prison; and occupied 
the site of an ancient fort of Champlain's era. It was used as a prison 
until the ne-\7 Penitentiary was built, on the Plains of Abraham, and in 
the N. Aving are the " sombre corridors that not long ago resounded with 
the steps of the jailers, and the narrow cells that are never enlivened by 
a ray of light." 

The * Library of the Quebec Literary and Historical Society is in the 
N. wing of Morrin College, and contains a rai'e collection of books re- 
lating to Canadian history and science, in the French and English lan- 
guages. This society is renowned for its valuable researches in the annals 
of the old St. Lawrence Provinces, and has published numerous volumes 
of records. It includes in its membership the leading literati of Eastern 
Canada. There is a small but interesting museum connected with the 
library-hall. 

St. Andreio's CJiurch, with its school and manse, occupy the triangle at 
the intersection of St. Anne and Stanislas Sts. It is a low, quaint build- 
ing, erected in 1809 on ground granted by Sir James Craig. Previously, 
from the time of the Conquest of Canada, the Scottish Presbyterians had 
worshipped in the Jesuits' College. The Wesleyan Church is a comforta- 
ble modern building, just below Morrin College; beyond which, on 
Dauphin St., is the chapel of the Congregationalists (Roman Catholic). 
At the corner of St. John and Palace Sts. (second story) is a statue of 
Wolfe, which is nearly a century old, and bears such a relation to Quebec 
as does the Maimikin to Brussels. It was once stolen at night by some 
12 



266 Route 68. QUEBEC. 

roystering naval officers, and carried off to Barbadoes, whence it was re- 
turned many months after, enclosed in a coffin. 

The * Hotel-Dieu Convent and Hospital is the most extensive pile of 
buildings in Quebec, and is situated on Palace St. (r. side) and the Eam- 
part. E. of the long ranges of buildings (in which 650 sick persons can be 
accommodated) are pleasant and retired gardens. The convent-church is 
entered from Charlevoix St., and contains valuable pictures: tlie Nativity, 
by Stella ; the Virgin and Child, Coyjoel ; the Vision of St. Teresa, Mena- 
geot ; St. Bruno in Meditation, Le Sueur (called '* the Raphael of France ") ; 
the * Praying Monk, by Zurbaran (undoubted); and fine copies of the 
Twelve Apostles, by Raphael, and the Descent from the Cross, by Rubens 
(over the high altar). 

The Hotel Dieu was founded by the Duchesse d'Aguillon (niece of Cardinal Riche- 
lieu) in 1639. In 1654 one of the present buildings was erected, and most of it was 
built during the 17th century, while Talon, Baron des Islets, completed it in 1762. 
There are 30-40 cloistered nuns of the order of the Hopitalieres, and the hospital 
is open freely to the sick and infirm poor of whatever sect, with attendance by the 
best doctors of the city. The singing of the nuns during the Sunday services will 
interest the visitor. 

The most precious relic in the Hotel-Dieu is a silver bust (in life size) of Br^beuf, 
in whose base is presei'ved the skull of that heroic martyr. Jean de Br^beuf, aNor- 
n>an Jesuit of noble blood, arrived at Quebec with Champlain in 1633, and went to 
the Huron country the next year. Here he had frequent celestial visions, and 
labored successfully in the work of converting the nation. He often said: " Sentio 
me vehementer impelli ad morienduvi proChrislo " ; and his wish was gratified when 
his mission-town of St. Ignace was stoi-nied by the Iroquois (in 1649) He was bound 
to a stake and scorched from head to foot ; tlie savages cut away his lower lip, and 
thrust a red-hot iron down his throat ; hung around his neck a necklace of red-hot 
collars (•' but the indomitable priest stood like a rock") ; poured boiling water over 
his head and face, in demoniac mockery of baptism ; cut strips of flesh from his 
limbs, and ate them before his eyes ; scalped him ; cut open his breast, and drank 
his living blood ; filled his ejes with live coals ; and after four hours of torture, a 
chief tore out his heart and devoured it. " Thus died Jean de Brebeuf, the founder 
of the Huron mission, its truest hero, and its greatest martyr He came of a noble 
race, — the same, it is said, from which sprang the English Earls of Arundel ; but 
never had the mailed barons of his line confronted a fate so appalling with so pro- 
digious a constancy. To the last he refused to flinch, and ' his death was the aston- 
ishment of his murderers.' " The delicate and slender Lalemant, Br6beuf's col- 
league on the mission, was tortured for seventeen hours, with the most refined and 
exqiiisite varieties of torment. " It was said that, at times, he seemed beside him- 
self; then, rallying, with hands uplifted, he offered his sufferings to Heaven as a 
sacrifice." The bones of Lalemant are preserved at the Hotel Dieu. 

Around the Ramparts. 

* The Citadel is an immense and powerful fortification, covering 40 
acres of ground, and is situated on the summit of Cape Diamond (so called 
from the glittering crystals found in the vicinity), which is said to be " the 
coldest place in the British Empire." Since the evacuation of Canada by 
the Imperial troops, the Citadel has been garrisoned b}'^ Canadian militia- 
men, and visitors are usually permitted to pass around the walls under 
the escort of a soldier. The **view from the most northerly bastion 
(which contains an immense Armstrong gun) surpasses that from the 
Duiferin Terrace, and is one of the most magnificent in the world. The 



QUEBEC. Route 68. 267 

St. Charles is seen winding through a beautiful undulating plain, and the 
spires of Beauport, Chai'lesbourg, and Lorette, with the white cottages 
around them, form pleasing features in the landscape. On the S. of the 
parade are the officers' quarters and the bomb-proof hospital, while bar- 
racks and magazines are seen in advance. The armory contains a great 
number of military curiosities, but is not always accessible to visitors. 
The Citadel is separated from the town by a broad glacis, which is broken 
by three ravelins ; and the wall on that side contains a line of casemated 
barracks. The entrance to the Citadel is by way of a winding road Avhich 
leads in from St. Louis St. through the slope of the glacis, and enters first 
the outer ditch of the ravelin, beyond the strong Chain Gate. Thence it 
passes, always under the mouths of cannon, into the main ditch, which is 
faced with .masonry, and at this point opens into a narrow parade, over- 
looked by the retiring angles of the bastion. The curious iron-work of the 
Chain Gate being passed, the visitor finds himself in an open triangular 
parade, under the loopholes 'of the Dalhousie Bastion. 

" Such structures carry us back to the Middle Ages, the siege of Jerusalem, and 
St. Jean d'Acre, and the days of the Buccaniers. In the armory of the Citadel they 
showed me a clumsy implement, long since useless, which they called a Lombard 
gun. I thought that their whole Citadel was such a Lombard gun, fit object for the 

museums of the curious Silliman states that ' the cold is so intense in the 

winter nights, particularly on Cape Diamond, that the sentinels cannot stand it 
more than one hour, and are relieved at the expiration of that time; and even, 
as it is said, at much shorter intervals, in case of the most extreme cold.' I shall 
never again wake up in a colder night than usual, but I shall think how rapidly the 
sentinels are relieving one another on the walls of Quebec, their quicksilver being 
all frozen, as if apprehensive that some hostile Wolfe may even then be scaling the 
Heights of Abraham, or some persevering Arnold about to issue from the wilderness ; 
some Malay or Japanese, perchance, coming round by the N. W. coast, have chosen 
that moment to assault the Citadel. Why I should as soon expect to see the senti- 
nels still relieving one another on the walls of Nineveh, which have so long been 
buried to the world. What a troublesome thing a wall is ! I thought it was to de- 
feud me, and not I it. Of course, if they had no walls they would not need to have 
any sentinels . " ( Tn oreau . ) 

The Citadel was formerly connected with the Artillery Barracks, at the farther 
end of the city, by a bomb-proof covered way 1,837 yards long. These fortifications 
are 345 feet above the river, and considerably higher than the Upper Town. The 
rock on which they are founded is of dark slate, in which are limpid quartz-crystals. 

The picturesque walls of Quebec are of no defensive value since the modern im- 
provements in gunnery ; and even the Citadel could not prevent dangerous ap- 
proaches or a bombardment of the city. Skilful military engineers have therefore 
laid out a more extensive system of modern fortifications, including lines of powerful 
detached forts on the heights of Point Levi, and at Sillery. The former were begun 
in 1867, and are nearly completed ; but the Sillery forts are not yet commenced. 

The spirit of utilitarianism, which has levelled the walls of Frankfort and Vienna 
and is menacing Boston Common, has been attacking the ramparts of Qviebec for 
many years. The St. Louis and Prescott Gates were removed in 1871, and the Pal- 
ace and Hope Gates in 1873. The better sentiment of the scholars and public men 
of the Province, headed by Lord Dufferin, stayed this tide of so-called improvement, 
and started the work of restoration. A magnificent new portal of masonry, with 
towers and mediaeval appurtenances, was erected on the site of the St. Louis Gate 
in 1878-79 ; and at the same time another very imposing entrance, called Kent 
Gate, was opened between this and St. John's Gate. Other projects are maturing, 
to still further enrich and beautify the ancient fortress-city, and to erect a stately 
palace for the Governors-General, on the Citadel. 



268 Route 68. QUEBEC. 

The Esplanade extends to the r. from the St. Louis Gate (within), and 
the tourist is recommended to walk along the ramparts to St. John's Gate, 
crossing the new Kent Gate, viewing the deep fosse, the massive outworks, 
and the antiquated ordnance at the embrasures. On the r. are the Con- 
gregational (Catholic) Church, and the National School; and Montcalm's 
Ward and the new Parliament Building are on the 1. * St. John's Gate 
is a strong and graceful structure which was erected in 1869. While rally- 
ing his soldiers outside of this gate, the Marquis de Montcalm was mortally 
wounded; and Col. Brown (of Massachusetts) attacked this point while 
Arnold and Montgomery were fighting in the Lower Town. To the 1. is 
St. John's Ward (see page 269) ; and the road to St. Foy passes below. The 
ramparts must be left at this point, and D'Auteuil and St. Helene Sts. 
follow their course by the Artillery Barracks, amid fine grounds at the 
S. W. angle of the fortifications. The French garrison erected the most 
important of these buildings (600 ft. long) in 1750, and the British Govern- 
ment has since made large additions. The barracks are now occupied by 
(■overnment works. On and near St. Helene St. are several churches, — 
St. Patrick's (Irish Catholic), Trinity (Anglican), the Baptist, and the Con- 
gregational. 

After crossing the wide and unsightly gap made by the removal of the 
Palace Gate, the rambler may follow the course of the walls from the 
Hotel Dieu (see page 266) to the Parliament Building. They occupy the 
crest of the cliff, and command fine views over the two rivers and the Isle 
of Orleans and Laurentian Mts. The walls are thin and low, but are fur- 
nished with lines of loopholes and with bastions for artillery. The walk 
takes an easterly course beyond the angle of the convent-buildings, and 
passes between the battlements and the high walls of the Hotel-Dieu gar- 
dens for nearly 500 ft. 

The streets which intersect the Rampart beyond this point are of a quaint and 
pleasing character. One of them is thus described by Howells : " The thi-esholds 
and doorsteps were covered with the neatest and brightest oilcloth ; the wooden 
sidewalk was very clean, like the steep, roughly paved street itself; and at the foot 
of the hill down which it sloped was a breadth of the (ity wall, pierced for musketry, 
and, past the corner of one of the houses, the half-length of cannon showing. It 
had all the charm of those ancient streets, dear to Old-World travel, in_ which the 
past and present, decay and repair, peace and war, have made friends in an effect 
that not only wins the eye, but, however illogically, touches the heart; and over 
the top of the wall it had a stretch of landscape as I know not what European 
street can command : the St. Lawrence, blue and wide ; a bit of the white village of 
Beauport on its bank ; then a vast breadth of pale green, upward-sloping meadows ; 
then the purple heights ; and the hazy heaven above them." 

Since Prescott Gate fell, there was " nothing left so picturesque and characteristic 
as Hope Gate, and I doubt if anywhere in Europe'there is a more mediaeval-looking 
bit of military architecture. The heavy stone gateway is black with age, and the 
gate, which has probably never been closed in our century, is of massive frame, set 
thick with mighty bolts and spikes. The wall here sweeps along the brow of the 
crag on which the city is built, and a steep street drops down, by stone- parapeted 
curves and angles from the Upper to the Lower Town, where, in 1775, nothing but 
a narrow lane bordered the St. Lawrence. A considerable breadth of land has since 
been won from the river, and several streets and many piers now stretch between 
this alley and the water ; but the old Sault au Matelot still crouches and creeps 



QUEBEC, Eoute68. 269 

along under the shelter of the city wall and the overhanging rock, which is thickly- 
bearded with weeds and grass, and trickles with abundant moisture. It must be 
an ice-pit in winter, and I should think it the last spot on the continent for the 
summer to find ; but when the summer has at last found it, the old Sault au 
Matelot puts on a vagabond air of Southern leisure and abandon, not to be matched 
anywhere out of Italy. Looking from that jutting rock near Hope Gate, behind 
which the defeated Americans took refuge from the fire of their enemies, the vista 
is almost unique for a certain scenic squalor and gypsy luxury of color : sag-roofed 
barns and stables, weak-backed and sunken-chested workshops of every sort lounge 
along in tumble-down succession, and lean up against the cliff in every imaginable 
posture of worthlessness and decrepitude ; light wooden galleries cross to them from 
tlie second stories of the houses which look back on the alley ; and over these galleries 
flutters, from a labyrinth of clothes-lines, a variety of bright-coloi-ed garments of 
all ages, sexes, and conditions ; while the footway underneath abounds in gossiping 
women, smoking men, idle poultry, cats, children, and large indolent Newfoundland 
dogs." (HowELLS's A Chance Acquaintance.) 

Passing the ends of these quiet streets, and crossing the gap caused by 
the removal of Hope Gate, the Rampart promenade turns to the S., by the 
immense block of the Laval University (see page 263) and its concealed 
gardens. The course is now to the S., and soon reaches the * Grand Bat- 
tery, where 22 32-pounders command the river, and from whose terrace a 
pleasing view may be obtained. The visitor is then obliged to leave the 
Avails near the Parliament Building (see page 263) and the site of the Pres- 
cott Gate. A short detour leads out again to the DufFerin Terrace (see 
page 259). Des Carrieres St. i-uns S. from the Place d'Armes to the Gov- 
ernor's Garden, a pleasant summei'-evening resort, with a monument 65 ft. 
high, erected in 1827 to the memory of Wolfe and Montcalm, and bear- 
ing the elegant and classic inscription: 

Mortem. Virtus. Communem. 

Famam. Historia. 

m02sfumentum. posteritas. 

Dedit. 

In the lower garden is a battery which commands the harbor. Des 
Carrieres St. leads to the inner glacis of the Citadel, and by turning to the 
r. on St. Denis St., its northern outwoi'ks and approaches may be seen. 
Passing a cluster of barracks on the r., the Chalmers Church is reached. 
This is a symmetrical Gothic building occupied by the Presbyterians, and 
its services have all the peculiarities of the old Scottish church. Beyond 
this point is St. Louis St., whence the circuit of the walls was begun. 



The Montcalm and St. John Wards extend W. on the plateau, from the 
city-walls to the line of the Martello Towers. The population is mostly 
French, and the quarter is entered by passing down St. John St. and 
through St. John's Gate. Glacis St. leads to the r., just beyond the walls, 
to the Convent of the Gray Sisters, which has a loftj^ and elegant chapel. 
There are about 70 nuns, whose lives are devoted to teaching and to 
visiting the sick. This building shelters 136 orphans and infirm persons, 



270 Route 68. ■ QUEBEC. 

and the sisters teach 700 female children. It overlooks the St. Charles 
valley, commanding fine views. Just above the nunnery is the Convent 
of the Christian Brothers, facing on the glacis of the rampart. A short 
distance out St. John St. is St. Matthew's Church (Episcopal); bej-ond 
which is the stately Church of St. John (Catholic), whose twin spires are 
seen for many leagues to the N. and W. The interior is lofty and light, 
and contains 12 copies from famous European paintings, executed by 
Plamondon, a meritorious Canadian artist. Claire-Fontaine St. leads S. 
from this church to the Grande Alice, passing just inside the line of the 
Martello Towers; and Sutherland St., leading into the Lower Town, is a 
little way beyond. The St. Foy toll-gate is about ^ M. from St. John's 
Church. 

" Above St. John's Gate, at the end of the street of that name, devoted entirely to 
business, there is at sunset one of the most beautiful views imaginable. The river 
St. Charles, gambolling, as it were, in the rajs of the departing luminary, the light 
still lingering on the spires of Lorette and Charlcsbourg, until it fades away beyond 
the lofty mountains of Bonhomme and Tonnonthuan, presents an evening scene of 
gorgeous and surpassing splendor." (Hawkins.) 

" A sunset seen from the heights above the wide valley of the St Charles, bathing 
in tender light the long undulating lines of remote hills, and transfiguring with glory 
the great chain of the Laurentides, is a sight of beauty to remain in the mind for- 
ever." (Marshall.) 

The Montcalm Ward may also be reached by passing out St. Louis St., 
through the intricate and formidable lines of ravelins and redoubts near 
the site of the St. Louis Gate. On the r. is the skating-rink, beyond which 
are the pleasant borders of the Grand Allde. The Convent of the Good 
Shepherd is in this ward, and has, in its church, a fine copy of Murillo's 
" Conception," by Plamondon. There are 74 nuns here, 90 penitents, and 
500 girl-students. The dark and heavy mediaeval structure on the Grand 
AUee was built for the Canada Military Asylum, to takecareof the widows 
and orphans of British soldiers who died on the Canadian stations. Near 
the corner of De Salaberry St. is St. BridgeVs Asylum, connected with St. 
Patrick's Church. The Ladies' Protestant Home is nearly opposite, and 
is a handsome building of white brick, where 70 old men and young girls 
are kept from want by the bounty' of the ladies of Quebec. 

The Martello Towers are four in number, and were built outside the 
extra-mural wards in order to protect them and to occupy the line of 
heights. They were erected in 1807-12, at an expense of $60,000, and 
are arranged for the reception of 7 guns each. They are circular in form, 
and have walls 13 ft. thick toward the country, while on the other side they 
are 7 ft. thick. The new Jail is about J M. in advance of the towers, and 
is a massive stone building, with walls pierced for musketry. Near this 
point (turning to the 1. from the Grand All^e beyond the toll-gate), and on 
the edge of the Plains of Abraham (extending to the S.), Is a monument 
consisting of a tall column, decked with trophies, and rising from a square 
base, on which is the inscription ; 



QUEBEC. Route 68. 271 

HEKE DIED 

WOLFE 

victokious. 

Sept. 13. 

1759. 

"The horror of the nij^ht, the precipice scaled by Wolfe, the empire he with a 
handful of men added to England, and the glorious catastrophe of contentedly ter- 
minating life where his fmie began Ancient story may be ransacked, and 

ostentatious philosophy thrown into the account, before an episode can be found to 
rank with Wolfe's." (Wiluam Pitt.) 

Tlie Lower Town. 

The most picturesque appx'oach from the Upper to the Lower Town is 
by the Champlain Steps (see page 264). This route leads to the busiest 
and most crowded part of the old river wards, and to the long lines of steam- 
boat wharves. Notre Dame 'des "Victoires is in the market square in the 
Lower Town, and is a plain old structure of stone, built on the site of 
Champlain's residence. It was erected in 1690, and was called Notre Dame 
des Victoires to commemorate the deliverance of the city from the English 
attacks of 1690 and 1711, in honor of which an annual religious feast was 
instituted. A prophecy was made by a nun that the church would be de- 
stroyed by the conquei-ing British ; and in 1759 it was burned during the 
bombardment ^rom Wolfe's batteries. S. of Notre Dame is the spacious 
Charaplain Marlcet, near an open square on whose water-front the river- 
steamers land. The narrow Champlain St. may be followed to the S., 
under Cape Diamond and by the point where Montgomery fell, to the great 
timber-coves above. 

St. Peter St. runs N. between the cliffs and the river, and is the seat of 
the chief trade of the city, containing numerous banks, public offices, and 
wholesale houses. The buildings are of the prevalent gray stone, and are 
massive and generally plain. The parallel lane at the foot of the cliff is 
the scene of the final discomfiture of the American assault in 1775. It is 
named SauU au Matelot, to commemorate the leap of a dog from the cliff 
above, near the Grand Battery. Leadenhall St. leads off on the r. to the 
great piers of Pointe a Carey and to the imposing classic, building of the 
* Custom-HoTise, which is at the confluence of the St. Lawrence and St, 
Charles Rivers. St. Paul St. runs W. from near the end of St. Peter St., 
along the narrow strip between the St. Charles and the northern cliffs, and 
passes the roads ascending to the Hope and Palace Gates. 

The Queeri's Fuel-Yard (1. side) is beyond the Palace Market, and occupies the site 
of an immense range of buildings erected by M. Begon, one of the later Royal In- 
tendants of New France. Here also lived Bigot in all the feudal splendor of the old 
French noblesse, on the revenues which he extorted from the oppressed Province. 
In 1775 the palace was captured by Arnold's Virginia riflemen, who so greatly an- 
noyed the garrison that the buildings were set on fire and consumed by shells from 
the batteries of the Upper Town. It is now a hay and cattle market. 



272 Houte.eS. QUEBEC. 

St. Paul St. is prolonged by St. Joseph St., the main thoroughfare of this 
quarter, and the boundary between the Jaques Cartieraud St. Koch Wards. 
The hitter is occupied chiefly by manufactories and shipyai-ds (on the 
shores of the St. Charles): and the narrow and plank-paved streets of 
Jaques Cartier, toward the northern walls, are filled with quaint little 
houses and interesting genre views about the homes of the French-Canadian 
artisans. St. Roch's Church is a very spacious building, with broad in- 
terior galleries, and contains several religious paintings. The Convent of 
Notre Dame is opposite St. Boch's, and has 70 nuns (black costume), who 
teach 725 childa-en. 

The * Marine Hospital is a large and imposing modem building, in 
Ionic architecture, situated in a park of six acres on the banks of the St. 
Charles River. The General Hospital and the monastery of Notre Dame 
des Anges form an extensive pile of buildings, on St Ours St., near the 
St. Charles. They were founded by St. Vallier, second bishop of Quebec 
(in 1693), for invalids and incurables. He spent 100,000 crowns in this 
work, erecting the finest building in Canada (at that time). It is now 
conducted by a superior and 45 nuns of St. Augustine. The convent- 
church of Notre Dame des Anges has 14 paintings b}' Legare, with an 
Assumption (over the high altar) dating from 1671. 

Pointe aux Liei-res, or Hai-e Point, is beyond the General Hospital, on the mead- 
ows of the St. Charles. It is supposed to be the place wliere the pious Fmuciscan 
monks founded the first mission in Canada. Jaques Carticr's winter-quarters in 
lo3t3 were here, and on leaving this point he carried otf the Indian king, Donnacona, 
who was afterwards baptized with great pomp in the magnificent cathedral of 
Rouen. On this ground, also, the army of Montcalm tried to rally after the disas- 
trous battle on the Plains of Abraham 

The suburb of the Banlieue lies beyond St. Ours St., and is occupied by 
the homes of the lower classes, with the heights towai-d St. Foy rising on 
the S. St. Sauveur's Church is the only fine building in this quarter. 

In May, 15.35, Jaques Cartier with his patrician officers and hardy sailors attended 
high mass and received the bishop's blessing in the Cathedral of St. Malo, and then 
departed across the unknown western seas. The largest of his vessels was of only 120 
tons" burden, yet the fleet crossed the ocean safely, and ascended the broad St. Law- 
rence. Having passed the dark Saguenay cliffs and the vine-laden shores of the Isle 
of Orleans, he^ entered a broad basin where " a mighty promontory, rugged and 
bare, thrust its scarped front into the raging current. Here, clothed in the majesty 
of sohtude, breathing the stern poetry "of ^he wilderness, rose the chfls now rich 
with heroic memories, where the fiery Count Frontenac cast defiance at his foes, 
where Wolfe, Montcalm, and Montgomery fell. As yet all was a nameless barbar- 
ism, and a cluster of wigwams held the site of the i-ock-built city of Quebec. Its 
name was Stadacone, and it owned the sway of the royal Donnacona." 

It is held as an old tradition that when Cartier"s Norman sailors first saw the 
promontory of Cape Diamond, they shouted " Quel bed '' (" What a beak I '•) which 
by a natural elision has been changed to Quebec. Others claim that they named the 
place in lovingmemory of Caudebec, on the Seine, to which its natural features bear 
a magnified i-esemblance. But the moi-e likely origin of the name is fi-om the Indian 
word kebec, signifying a strait, and applied to the compai-ative narrowing of the river 
above the Basin. " It is, however, held in support of the Norman origin of the name 
that the seal of William de la Pole, Earl of Suffolk in the loth century, bears the 
title of Lord of Quebec. This noble had lai-ge domains in France, and was the vic- 
tor at Crevant and Compeigne, and the conqueror of Joan of Arc, but wa^ impeached 



QUEBEC. Route 68. 273 

and put to death (as narrated by Shakespeare, King Henry VI , Part 11., Act IV., 
Scene 1) for losing the English provinces in France after 34 arduous campaigns. 

When Cartier went to Montreal his men built a fort and prepared winter-quarters 
near the St. Charles River. Soon after his retui-n an intense cold set in, and nearly 
every man in the fleet was stricken down with the scurvy , of which many died iu 
great suffering. In the springtime, Cartier planted the cross and fleur-de-lis on 
the site of Quebec, and returned to France, carrying King Donnacona and several 
of his chiefs as prisoners. These Indians were soon afterwards received into the 
Catholic; Church, with much pomp and ceremony, aud died within a year, in 
France. In 1541 Cartier returned with 5 vessels and erected forts at Cap Rouge, 
but the Indians were suspicious, and the colony was soon abandoned. Soon after- 
wards Roberval, the Viceroy of New France, founded another colony on. the same 
site, but after a long and miserable winter it also was broken up. 

In the year 1608 the city of Quebec was founded by the noble Champlain,i who 
erected a fort here, and laid the foundations of Canada. A party of Franciscan 
monks arrived in 1615, and the Jesuits came in 1644. In 1628 Sir David Kirke 
vainly attacked the place with a small English fleet, but in 1629 he was more suc- 
cessful, and, after a long blockade, made himself master of Quebec. It was restored 
to France in 1632 ; and in 1635 Governor Champlain died, and was buried in the 
Lower Town. Champlain's successor was Charles de Montmagny, a brave and de- 
vout Knight of Malta, on whom the Iroquois bestowed the name of Onontio 
(" Great Mountain '"). The work of founding new settlements and of proselj'ting 
the Hurons and combating the Iroquois was continued for the next century from 
the rock of Quebec. 

After the king had erected his military colonies along the St. Lawrence, he found 
that another element was necessary iu order to make them permanent and progres- 
sive. Therefore, between 1665 and 1673 he sent to Quebec 1,000 girls, most of whom 
were of the French peasantry ; though the Intendant, mindful of the tastes of his 
officers, demanded and received a consignment of young ladies (" defnoiselles bien 
choisies''-). These cargoes included a wide variety, from Parisian vagrants to Nor- 
man ladies, and were maliciously styled by one of the chief nuns, "mixed goods " 
{une marchandise melee). The government provided them with dowries ; bachelors 
were excluded by law from trading, fishing, and hunting, and were distinguished by 
" marks of infamy "; and the French Crown gave bounties for children (each inhab- 
itant who had 10 children being entitled to a pension of from 400 to 800 livres). 
About the year 1664 the city indulged in extraordinary festivities on the occasion 
of the arrival of the bones of St. Flavien and St. Felicity, which the Pope had pre- 
sented to the cathedral of Quebec. These honored relics were borne in solemn pro- 
cession through the streets, amid the sounds of martial music and the roaring of 
saluting batteries, and were escorted by the Marquis de Tracy, the Intendant Talon, 
and the valiant Courcelles, behind whom marched the royal guards and the famous 
Savoyard regiment of Carignan-Salieres, veterans of the Turkish campaigns. The 
diocese of Quebec was founded in 1674, and endowed with the revenues of the ancient 
abbeys of Maubec and Benevent. In the same ship with Bishop Laval came Father 
Hennepin, who explored the Mississippi from the Falls of St. Anthony to the Gulf 
of Mexico, and the fearless explorer La Salle. 

In 1672 the Count de Frontenac was sent here as Governor, and in 1690 he bravely 
repulsed an attack by Sir Wm. Phipps's fleet (from Boston), inflicting severe damage 
by a cannonade from the fort. Besides many men, the assailants lost their admiral's 
standard and several ships. In 1711 Sir Hovenden Walker sailed from Boston 
against Quebec, but he lost in one daj'- eight vessels and 884 men by shipwreck ou 
the terrible reefs of the Egg Islands. Strong fortifications were built soon after ; and 
in 1759 Gen. Wolfe came up the river with 8,000 British soldiers. The Marquis de 
Montcalm was then Governor, and he moved the French army into fortified lines on 
Beauport Plains, where he defeated the British in a sanguinary action. On the 
night of Sept. 12, Wolfe's army drifted iip stream on the rising tide, and succeeded 
in scaling the steep cliffs beyond the city. They, were fired upon by the French 
outposts ; but before Montcalm could bring his forces across the St. Charles the Brit- 

^ Champlain was born of a good family in the province of Saintonge, in 1570. He became 
a naval offtcer, and was afterward attached to the person of King Henri IV. In 1(303 he ex- 
plored the St. Lawrence River up to the St. Louis Rapids, and afterward (until his death in 
1635) he explored the country from Nantucket to the head-waters of the Ottawa. He was a 
brave, merciful, and zealous chief, and held that " the salvation of one.soul is of mo;e im- 
portance than the founding of a new empire." He established strong missions among the 
Hurons, fought the Iroquois, and founded Quebec. 

12* . B 



274: Route 68. QUEBEC. 

ish lines were formed upon the Plains of Abraham ; and in the short but desperate 
battle which ensued both the genei-als were mortally wounded. The English lost 
664 men, and the French lost 1,500. The French army, which was largelj" composed 
of provincial levies (with the regiments of La Guienne, Royal Eoussilon, Beam, La 
Sarre, and Languedoc), gave way, and retreated across the St. Charles, and a few 
days later the city surrendered. 

in April, 1760, the Chevalier de Levis (of that Levis family — Dukes of Ventadour 
— which claimed to possess records of their lineal descent from the patriarch Levi) 
led the reorganized French army to St. Foy, near Quebec. Gen. Murray, hoping to 
surprise Levis, advanced (with 3,000 men) from his fine position on the Plains of 
Abraham ; but the French were vigilant, and Murraj' was defeated and hurled back 
within the city gates, having lost 1,000 men and 20 cannon. Levis now laid close 
siege to the city, and battered the walls (and especially St. John's Gate) from three 
heavy field-works. Quebec answered with an almost incessant cannonade from 132 
guns, until Commodore Swanton came up the river with a fleet from England. The 
British supremacj' in Canada was soon afterwards assured \)y the Treat_y of Paris, 
and Yoltaire congratulated Louis XY. on being rid of" 1,500 leagues of frozen coun- 
try." The memorable words of Gov. Shirley before the Massachusetts Legislature 
(June 28, 1746), " Canada est delendn ,''' were at last verified, but the campaigns had 
cost the British Government $400,000,000, and resulted in the loss of the richest of 
England's colonies. For the attempted taxation of the Americans, which resulted 
in the War of Independence, was planned in order to cover the deficit caused in tlie 
British Treasury by the Canadian campaigns. 

In the winter of 1775-6 the Americans besieged the city, then commanded by Gen. 
Guy Carleton (afterwards made Lord Dorchester). The provisions of the besiegers 
began to fail, their regiments were being depleted by sickness, and their light guns 
made but little impression on the massive city walls ; so an assault was ordered and 
conducted before dawn on Dec. 31 , 1775. In the midst of a heavy snow-storm Arnold 
advanced through the Lower Town from his quarters near the St. Charles River, and 
led his 800 New-Englanders and Tirginians over two or three barricades. The Mon- 
treal Bank and several other massive stone houses were filled with British regulars, 
who guarded the approaches with such a deadly fire that Arnold's men were forced 
to take refuge in the adjoining houses, while Arnold himself was badly wounded and 
carried to the rear. Meanwhile Montgomery was leading his New-Yorkers and Con- 
tinentals N. along Champlaiu St. bj- the river-side. The intention was for the two 
attacking columns, after driving the enemy from the Lower Town, to unite before 
the Prescott Gate and carry it by storm. A strong barricade was stretched across 
Champlain St. from the cliff to the river ; but when its guards saw the great masses 
of the attacking column advancing through the twilight, they fled. In all proba- 
bility Montgomery would have ci-o;sed the barricade, delivered Arnold's men by at- 
tacking the enemy in the rear, and then, witli 1.500 men flushed with victory, would 
have escaladed the Prescott Gate and won Quebec and Canada, — but that one of 
the fleeing Canadians, impelled by a strange caprice, turned quickly back, and fired 
the cannon which stood loaded on the barricade. Montgomery ana many of his 
ofiicers and men were stricken down by the shot, and the column broke up in 
panic, and fled. The British forces were now concentrated on Arnold's men, who 
were hemmed in by a sortie from the Palace Gate, and 426 officers and men were 
made prisoners. A painted board has been hung high up on the cliff over tlie 
place in Champlain St. where Montgomery fell . Montgomery was an officer in Wolfe's 
army when Quebec was taken from tlie French 15 years before, and knew the 
ground. His mistake was in heading the forlorn hope., Quebec was the capital of 
Canada from 1760 to 1791, and after that it served as a semi-capital, until the found- 
ing of Ottawa City. In 1845, 2,900 houses were burnt, and the place was nearly 
destroyed, but soon revived with the aid of the great lumber-trade, which is still its 
specialty. 

In September, 1874, Quebec was filled with prelates, priests, and enthusiastic 
people, and the second centennial of the foundation of the diocese was celebrated 
with great pomp. Nine triumphal arches, in Latin, Byzantine, Romanesque, Classic, 
and Gothic architecture, were erected over the streets of the Upper Town, and dedi- 
cated to the metropolitan dioceses of North America ; an imposing procession pa.ssed 
under them and into the Cathedral, which was endowed on that day with the name 
and privileges of a ba?ilica ; and at evening the city was illuminated, at a cost of 
^30,000. In the pageant was borne the ancient flag of Ticonderoga {Le Drapeau de 
Carillon), which floated over Montcalm's victorious army when he defeated Aber- 



QUEBEC. Route 68. 275 

crombie on Lake Champlain (July 8, 1758), and is now one of the most esteemed 
trophies of Quebec. 

The annals of the Church contain no grander chapter than that which records 
the career of the Canadian Jesuits. Unarmed and alone, they passed forth from 
Quebec and Montreal, and traversed all the wide region between Labrador and the 
remote West, bravely meeting death in its most liugering and horrible forms at 
the hands of the vindictive savages whom they came to bless. Their achievements 
and their fate filled the world with amazement. Even Puritan New England, 
proudly and sternly jealous of her religious liberty, received their envoy with 
honors; Boston, Plymouth, and Salem alike became his gracious hosts; and the 
Apostle Eliot entertained him at his Roxbury parsonage, and urged him to remain. 

"To the Jesuits the atmosphere of Quebec was wellnigh celestial. 'In the cli- 
mate of New France,' they write, ' one learns perfectly to seek only one God, to 
have no desire but God, no purpose but for God.' And again: 'To live in New 
France is in truth to live in the bosom of God.' ' If,' adds Le Jeune, 'any one of 
those who die in this country goes to perdition, I think he will be doubly guilty.' " 

" Meanwhile from Old France to New came succors and reinforcements to the 
missions of the forest. More Jesuits crossed the sea to urge on the work of conver- 
sion. These were no stern exiles, seeking on barbarous shores an asylum for a per- 
secuted faith. Rank, wealth, power, and royalty itself smiled on their enterprise, 
and bade them God-speed- Yet-, withal, a fervor more intense, a self-abnegation 
more complete, a self-devotion more constant and enduring, will scarcely find its 

record on the pages of human history It was her nobler and purer part that 

gave life to the early missions of New France. That gloomy wilderness, those 
hordes of savages, had nothing to tempt the ambitious, the proud, the grasping, or 
the indolent. Obscure toil, solitude, privation, hardship, and death were to be the 
missionary's portion 

" The Jesuits had borne all that the human frame seems capable of bearing. 
They had escaped as by miracle from torture and death. Did their zeal flag or their 
courage fail ? A fervor intense and unquenchable urged them on to more distant 
and more deadly ventures. The beings, so near to mortal sympathies, so human, 
yet so divine, in whom their fiith impersonated and dramatized the great principles 
of Christian faith, — virgins, saints, and angels, — hovered over them, and held be- 
fore their raptured sight crowns of glory and garlands of immortal bliss. They 
burned to do, to suifer, and to die : and now, from out a living martyrdom, they 
turned their heroic gaze towards an horizon dark with perils yet more appalling, and 
saw in hope the day when they should bear the cross into the blood-stained dens of 
the Iroquois. 

In 1647, when the powerful and bloodthirsty Iroquois were sweeping over Can- 
ada in all directions, the Superior of the Jesuits wrote: " Do not imagine that the 
rage of the Iroquois, and the loss of many Christians and many catechumens, can 
bring to naught the mystery of the cross of Jesus Christ and the efficacy of his 
blood. We shall die ; we shall be captured, burned, butchered: be it so. Those 
who die in their beds do not always die the best death. I see none of our company 
cast down. On the contrary, they ask leave to go up to the Hurons, and some of 
them protest that the fires of the Iroquois are one of their motives for the journey." 
"The iron Brebeuf, the gentle Garnier, the all-enduring Jogues, the enthusiastic 
Chaumonot, Lalemant, Le Mercier, Chatelain, Daniel, Pijart, Rogueneau, Du Peron, 
Poacet, Le Moyne, — one and all bore themselves with a tranquil boldness, which 

amazed the Indians and enforced their respect When we look for the result 

of these missions, we soon become aware that the influence of the French and the 
Jesuits extended far beyond the circle of converts. It eventually modified and 
softened the manners of many unconverted tribes. In the wars of the next century 
we do not often find those examples of diabolic atrocity with which the earlier an- 
nals are crowded. The savage burned his enemies ahve, it is true, but he seldom 
ate them ; neither did he torment them with the same deliberation and persistency. 
He was a savage still, but not so often a devil." (Parkman.) 

The traveller who wishes to study more closely this sublime episode in the New- 
World history may consult the brilliant and picturesque historical narratives of Mr. 
Francis Parkman : " The Jesuits of North America," '• The Pioneers of France in 
the New World," and " La Salle and the Discovery of the Great West." LeMoine'a 
" Quebec, Past and Present," and '' Picturesque Quebec," should also be read. 



276 Route 69. BEAUPOKT. 



69. The Environs of Quebec. 

This district is famed for its beauty, and is filled with objects of interest to the 
tourist. The suburban villages can be visited by pedestrian tours ; but in that 
case it is best to ctit off communication with the city, and to sweep around on the 
great curve which includes the chief points of attraction. The village inns furnish 
poor accommodations. Such a walking tour should be taken only after a season of 
dry weather, else the roads will be found very muddy. But all the world goes about 
in carriages here, and a caliche and driver can be hired at very low rates (see page 
255). The drivers' statements of distances can seldom be relied on, for they gen- 
erally err on the side of expansion. 

"I don't know whether I cared more for Quebec or the beautiful little villages in 
the country all about it. The whole landscape looks just like a dream of ' Evan- 
geline.' .... But if we are coming to the grand and beautiful, why, there is no 
direction in which you can look about Quebec without seeing it ; and it is alM-ays 
mixed up with something so famihar and homehke that my heart warms to it." 
(HowELLS's A Chance Acquaintance.) 

** Tlie Falls of Montmorenci are 7 M. from the Dorchester Bridge, 
which is about 1 M. from the Upper-Town Market Square. The route 
usually taken leads down Palace St. and by the Queen's Fuel- Yard (see 
page 271) and St. Eoch's Church. As the bridge is being crossed, the 
'Marine Hospital is seen on the 1., and on the r. are the shipyards of St. 
Eoch's Ward and the suburb of St. Charles. The road is broad and firm, 
and leads across a fertile plain, with fine retrospective views. The Beau- 
port Lunatic Asylum is soon reached, near which is the villa of Glenalla. 
The asj'lum formerly consisted of two large buildings, one for each sex; 
but the female department was destroyed by fire in January, 1875, and 
several of its inmates were burnt with it. Beauport is 3^-5 M. from 
Quebec, and is a long-drawn-out village of 1,300 inhabitants, with a tall 
and stately church whose twin spires are seen from a great distance. 
There are several flour and barley mills in the parish, and a considerable 
lumber business is done. The seigniory was founded in 1634 by the Sieur 
Giflfard, and along its plains was some of the heaviest fighting of the war 
of the Conquest of Canada. 

It is " in that part of Canada which was the first to be settled, and where the face 
of the country and the people have undergone the least change from the beginning, 
where the influence of the States and of Europe is least felt, and the inhabitants see 
little or nothing of the world over the walls of Quebec." The road from Quebec to 
St. Joachim is lined by a continuous succession of the quaint and solid little Cana- 
dian houses of whitewashed stone, placed at an angle with the street in order to 
face the south. The farms are consequently remarkably narrow (sometimes but a 
few yards wide and J M. long), and the country is bristling with fences. In 1664 
the French king forbade that the colonists should make any more clearings, " except 
one next to another " ; but in 1745 he was obliged to order that their farms should 
be not less than Ih arpents wide. These narrow domains arose from the social char- 
acter of the people, who were thus brought close together ; from their need of con- 
centration as a defence against the Indians ; and from the subdivision of estates by 
inheritance. The Latin Catholicism of the villagers is shown by roadside crosses 
rising here and there along the way. 

So late as 1827 Montmorenci County (which is nearly as large as Massachusetts) 
had but 5 shops, 30 artisans, 2 schools, 5 churches (all Catholic), and 5 vessels (with 
an aggregate of 59 tons). There has been but little change since. In 1861, out of 
11,136 inhabitants in the county, 10,708 were of French origin, of whom but a few 
score understand the English language. 



MONTMORENCI FALLS. Route 69. 277 

M. Rameau ("La France aux Colonies'''') has proved, after much labor and re- 
search, that the colonists who settled the Cote de Beaupr(5 and Beauport were from 
the ancient French province of La Perche ; adding that Montreal was colonized from 
the province of Anjou, the Isle of Orleans from Poitou, and Quebec, Trois Hivieres, 
and the Eicheiieu valley from Normandy. 

Beyond the church of Beauport the road continues past the narrow do- 
mahis on either hand, and runs along the side of the Haldimand estate. The 
Montmorenci Eiver is crossed, and the traveller stops at the Montmorenci 
Restaurant, where lunch may be obtained. At this point admission is 
given to the grounds about the Falls (fee, 25c.); and the tourist should 
visit not only the pavilion near the brink (which commands a charming 
view of Quebec), but also the small platform lower down (and reached by 
a long stairway), whence the best front-view is obtained. The descent to 
the basin below is difficult, and will hardly repay the labor of the return. 
A short distance below the Falls is the confluence of the Montmorenci 
with the St. Lawrence, and immense saw-mills are located there, employ- 
ing 7 - 800 men and cutting up 2,500 logs a day. Near the Falls is Haldi- 
mand House, formerly occupied by the Duke of Kent, Queen Victoria's 
father; and on the cliffs by the river are seen the towers of a suspension- 
bridge which fell soon after its erection, hurling three persons into the 
fatal abyss below. At the foot of these Falls an immense ice-cone (some- 
times 200 ft. high) is formed every winter, and here the favorite sport of 
tobogganning 's carried on. The * Natural Steps are 1^ M. above the 
Falls, where the Montmorenci is contracted into a narrow limit and rushes 
down with great velocity, having cut its bed down through successive 
strata and leaving step-like terraces on either side. Fine specimens of 
trilobites have been found in this vicinity. 

The road running on beyond the Montmorenci Restaurant leads to Ange 
Gardien and St. Anne (see Route 70). The views on the way back to 
Quebec are very beautiful. 

The old French habitans call the Montmorenci Fall, La Yache (" The Cow"), on 
account of the resemblance of its foaming waters to milk. Others attribute this 
name to the noise like the lowing of a cow which is made by the Fall during the 
prevalence of certain winds. Immediately about the basin and along the Mont- 
morenci River, many severe actions took place during Wolfe's siege of Quebec. 
This river was for a time the location of the picket-lines of the British and French 
armies. 

" It is a very simple and noble fall, and leaves nothing to be desired It is a 

splendid introduction to the scenery of Quebec. Instead of an artificial fountain iu 
its square, Quebec has this magnificent natural waterfall to adorn one side of its 
harbor." (Thoreau.) 

" The effect on the beholder is most delightful. The river, at some distance, 
seems suspended in the air, in a sheet of billowy foam, and, contrasted, as it is, 
with the black frowning abyss into which it falls, it is an object of the highest in- 
terest. It has been compared to a white ribbon, suspended in the air ; this com- 
parison does justice to the delicacy, but not to the grandeur of the cataract." (Sn,- 

LIMAN.) 

" A safe platform leads along the rocks to a pavilion on a point at the side of the 
fall, and on a level with it. Here the gulf, nearly 300 ft. deep, with its walls of 
chocolate-covered earth, and its patches of emerald herbage, wet with eternal spray, 
opens to the St. Lawrence. Montmorenci is one of the loveliest waterfalls. £a its 



278 Route 69. INDIAN LORETTE. 

general character it bears some resemblance to the Pisse-Vache, in Switzerland, 
which, however, is much smaller. The water is snow-white, tinted, in the heaviest 
portions of the fall, with a soft yellow, like that of raw silk. In fact, broken as it is 
by the irregular edge of the rock, it reminds one of masses of silken, flossy skeins 
continually overlapping one another as they fall. At the bottom, dashed upon a 
pile of rocks, it shoots far out in star-like radii of spray, which share the regular 
throb or pulsation of the falling masses. The edges of the fall flutter out" into 
lace-like points and fringes, which dissolve into gauze as they descend." (^Bayard 
Taylor.) 

" The Falls of Montmorenci present the most majestic spectacle in all this vicin- 
ity, and even in the Province. The river, in its course through a country which is 
covered with an almost unbroken forest, has an inconsiderable flow of water except 
when swelled by the melting of the snow or the autumnal rains, until it reaches the 
precipice, where it is 8-10 fathoms wide. Its bed, being inclined before arriving at 
this point, gives a great velocity to the current, which, pushed on to the verge of a 
perpendicular rock, forms a large sheet of Avater of a whiteness and a fleecy appear- 
ance which resembles snow, in falling in a chasm among the rocks [251] ft. below. 
At the bottom there rises an immense foam in undulating masses, Avhich, when 
the sun lights up their brilhant prismatic colors, produces an inconceivably beauti- 
ful effect." (BOUCHETTE.) 

" For those who go from Montmorenci to Quebec, the time to be on the road is 
about sunset. The city, climbing up from the great river to the heights, on which 
stands the castle, looks especially beautiful in the warm light that then falls full upon 
It, and the level rays, striking on the quaint old metal-sheathed roofs and on all the 
westward-facing windows, light up the town with a diamond-like sparkling of won- 
derful brilliancy." (White's Sketches from America.) 

* Indian Lorette (small inn) is 9 M. from Quebec, by the Little Kiver 
Road. It is an ancient village of the Hurons ("Catholics and allies of 
France"), and the present inhabitants are a quiet and religious people in 
whom the Indian blood predominates, though it is never unmixed. The 
men hunt and fish, the women make bead-work and moccasons, and the 
boys earn pennies by dexterous archery. There are 60 Huron families 
here, and their quaint little church is worthy of notice. The population 
of the parish is 3,500, and the district is devoted to farming. The 
* Lorette Falls are near the mill, and are very pretty. 

The best description of Lorette is given in Howells's A Chance Acquaintance 
(Chap. XIII.), from which the following note is extracted : " The road to Lorette is 
through St. John's Gate, down into the outlying meadows and r5'e-fields, where, 
crossing and recrossing the swift St. Charles, it finally rises at Lorette above the level 
of the citadel. It is a lonelier road than that to Montmorenci, and the scattering 
cottages upon it have not the well-to-do prettiness, the operatic repair, of stone-built 
Beauport. But they are charming, nevertheless, and the people seem to be remoter 

from modern influences B3- and by they came to Jeune-Lorette, an almost 

ideally pretty hamlet, bordering the road on either hand with galleried and balconied 
little houses, from which the people bowed to them as thej' passed, and piously en- 
closing in its midst the village church and churchyard. They soon after reached 
Lorette itself, which they might easily have known for an Indian town by its un- 
kempt air, and the irregular attitudes in which the shabbj' cabins lounged along 

the lanes that wandered through it The cascade, with two or three successive 

leaps above the read, plunges headlong down a steep, crescent-shaped slope, and 
hides its foamy whiteness in the dark-foliaged ravine below. It is a wonder of 
gracefjul motion, of iridescent lights and delicious shadows ; a shape of loveliness that 
seems instinct with a conscious life." 

Charles Marshall says, in his " Canadian Dominion " (London, 1871) : " For pic- 
turesque beaiity the environs of Quebec vie with those of any city in the world. 
.... It is not too much to say that the Lorette cascades would give fame and for- 
tune to any spot in England or France ; yet here, dwarfed by grander waters, they 
remain comparatively unknown." 



CHAELESBOURG. Route 69. 279 

When the French came to Canada the Hurons were a powerful nation on the 
shores of Lakes Huron and Simcoe, with 32 villages and 20-30,000 inhabitants. 
They received the Jesuit missionaries gladly, and were speedily converted to Chris- 
tianity. Many of them wore their hair in bristling ridges, whence certain aston- 
ished Frenchmen, on first seeing them, exclaimed " Quelles hures! " (" What boars' 
heads ! ") and the name of Hurcm supplanted their proper title of Ouenrlal or Wyan- 
dot. The Iroquois, or Five Nations (of New York), were their mortal foes, and after 
many years of most barbarous warfai-e, succeeded in storming the Christian Huron 
towns of St. Joseph, St. Igaace, and St. Louis. The nation was annihilated : a few 
of its people fled to the far West, and are now known as the AVyandots ; multitudes 
were made slaves among the Iroquois villages ; 10,000 were killed in battle or in the 
subjugated towns ; and the mournful remnant fled to Quebec. Hundreds of them 
were swept away from the Isle of Orleans by a daring Iroquois raid ; the survivors 
encamped under the guns of the fort for 10 years, then moved to St. Foy ; and, about 
the year 1673, this feeble fragment of the great Huron nation settled at Ancienne 
Lorette. It was under the care of the Jesuit Chaumonot, who, while a mere boy, 
had stolen a small sum of money and fled from France into Lombardy. In filth and 
poverty he begged his way to Ancona, and thence to Loretto, where, at the Holy 
House, he had an angelic vision.- He went to Rome, became a Jesuit, and experi- 
enced another miracle from Loretto ; after which he passed to the Huron mission 
in Canada, where he was delivered from martyrdom by the aid of St. Michael. He 
erected at Ancienne Lorette a chapel in exact fac-simile of the Holy House at Lo- 
retto ; and here he claimed that many miracles were performed. In 1697 the 
Hurons moved to New Lorette, "a wild spot, covered with the primitive forest, 
and seamed by a deep and tortuous ravine, where the St. Charles foams, white as a 
snow-drift, over the black ledges, and where the sunshine struggles through matted 
boughs of the pine and the fir, to bask for brief moments on the mossy rocks or 
flash on the hurrying waters. On a plateau beside tlie torrent, another chapel was 
built to Our Lady, and another Huron town sprang up ; and here to this day, the 
tourist finds the remnant of a lost people, harmless weavers of baskets and sewers 
of moccasons, the Huron blood fast bleaching out of them, as, with every generation, 
they mingle and fade away in the French population around." (Parkman. ) 

Visitors to Lorette are recommended to return to Quebec by another 
road from that on which they went out. Ancienne Lorette may be reached 
from this point, and so may the lakes of Beauport and St. Charles. 1^ 
days' journey to the N. is Lac Rond, famous for its fine hunting and fishing. 

Charlesbourg (Huot's boarding-house) is 4 M. from Quebec, on a far- 
viewing ridge, and is clustered about a venerable convent and old church 
(with copies of the Last Communion of St. Jerome and the Sistine Ma- 
donna over its altars). It is the chef-lieu of the seigniory of Notre Dame 
des Anges, and its products are lumber and oats. To this point (then 
known as Bourg Royal) retired the inhabitants of the Isle of Orleans, in 
1759, when ordered by Montcalm to fall back before the British. They 
were 2,500 in number, and were led by their curds. Pleasant roads lead 
from Charlesbourg to Lorette, Lake St. Charles, Lake Beauport, and Cha- 
teau Bigot. 

Lake St. Charles is 11 M. from Quebec, and 6 M. from Lorette, It is 
4 M. long, and its waters are very clear and deep. The red trout of this 
lake are of delicate flavor. There is a remarkable echo from the shores. 

" On arriving at the vicinity of the lake, the spectator is delighted by the beauty 

and picturesque wildness of its banks Trees grow immediately on the borders 

of the water, which is indented by several points advancing into it, and forming lit- 
tle bays. The lofty hills which suddenly rise towards the N., in shapes singular 
and diversified, are overlooked by mountains which exalt, beyond them, their more 
distant summits." (Heriot.) 



280 Route 69. CHATEAU BIGOT. 

ChS.teau Bigot is about 7 M. from Quebec, by way of Charlesbourg, 
where the traveller turns to the r. around the church, and rides for 2 M. 
along a ridge which affords charming views of the city on the r. " It is a 
lovely road out to Chateau Bigot. First you drive through the ancient 
suburbs of the Lower Town, and then you mount the smooth, hard high- 
way, between pretty country-houses, towards the village of Charlesbourg, 
while Quebec shows, to yoi;r casual backward glance, like a wondrous 
painted scene, with the spires and lofty roofs of the Upper Town, and the 
long, irregular wall wandering on the verge of the cliflf; then the thronging 
gables and chimneys of St. Eoch, and again many spires and convent 
walls." The ruins of the Chateau are only reached after driving for some 
distance through a narrow wheel-track, half ovei-grown with foliage. There 
remain the gables and division-wall, in thick masonry, with a deep cellar, 
outside of which are heaps of debris, over which grow alders and lilacs. 
The ruins are in a cleared space over a little brook where trout are 
found ; and over it is the low and forest-covered ridge of La Montagne des 
Ormes. 

This land was in the Fief de la TrimtS, which was granted about the year ]640 to 
M. Denis, of La Rochelle. The chiteau was built for his feudal mansion by the 
Royal Intendant Talon, Baron des Islets, and was afterwards occupied by the last 
Royal Intendant, M. Bigot, a dissolute and licentious French satrap, who stole 
$2,000,000 from the treasury. The legend tells that Bigot used this building for a 
hunting-lodge and place of revels, and that once, while pursuing a bear among the 
hills, he got lost, and was guided back to the chateau by a lovely Algonquin maiden 
whom he had met in the forest. She remained in this building for a long time, in 
a luxurious boudoir, and was visited frequently by the Intendant ; but one night 
she was assassinated by some unknown person, — either M. Bigofs wife, or her own 
mother, avenging the dishonor to her tribe (see " Chateau Bigot," by J. M. LeMoine, 
sold at the Quebec bookstores for 10c. : also Howells's A Chance Acquaintance, 
Chap. XII.). 

Sillery (or St. Colomb) is 3 M. from Quebec, by the Grand All^e and 
the Cap-Eouge Eoad (see page 270). After passing Wolfe's Monument, 
the road leads across the Plains of Abraham, on which were fought the 
sanguinary battles of 1759 and 1760. Sillery is a parish of 3,000 inhab- 
itants, on whose river front are 17 coves, where most of the lumber of 
Quebec is guarded. The Convent of Jesus-Maria is a new building of great 
size and imposing architecture ; opposite which is the handsome Gothic 
school-house which was given to this parish by Bishop Mountain. In the 
vicinityof Sillery are several tine villas, amid ornamental grounds: March- 
mont, once the home of Sir John Harvey and Bishop Stewart; Spencer 
Wood, "the most beautiful domain of Canada," with a park of 80 acres, 
formerly the home of the Earl of Elgin and other governors, now the resi- 
dence of the Lieutenant-Governor of the Province of Quebec ($10,000 
is voted annually for its maintenance by the Legislature); Woodfeld, 
founded by the Bishop of Samos; Spencer Grange, where lives J. M. 
LeMoine, the author and antiquarian; Bardfield, Bishop Mountain's 
former home; Cataracouy, where the British princes, Albert Edward 



CAP ROUGE. Route 69, 281 

and Alfred, sojourned; Benmore, Col. Rhodes's estate; and several 
others. The beautiful cemetery of Mount Hermon, which was laid out 
by Major Douglas, the planner of Greenwood Cemetery, is in this vicin- 
ity, and is adorned by the graceful chapel of St. Michael. The people 
of Sillery have recently (1870) erected a monument, sustaining a mar- 
ble cross, near the place where Father Mass^ was buried, in 1646, in the 
ancient Church of St. Michael (which has long since disappeared). The 
old Jesuit Residence still remains, and is a massive building of stone. 

The CheTalier Noel Brulart de Sillery, Knight of Malta, and formerly a high offi- 
cer at the court of Queen Marie de Medicis, having renounced the woi'ld, devoted his 
vast revenues to religious purposes. Among his endowments was the foundation of 
a Christian Algonquin village just above Quebec, which the Jesuits named Sillery^ 
in his honor. Here the Abenaquis of Maine learned the elements of Catholicism, 
which was afterwards unfolded to. them in their villages on the Kennebec, by Father 
Druilletes. This worthy old clergyman followed them in their grand hunts about 
Moosehead Lake and the northern forests, " with toil too great to buy the kingdoms 
of this world, but very small as^ price for the Kingdom of Heaven." From the 
mission-house at Sillery departed Jogues, Br^beuf, Lalemant, and many other heroic 
missionaries and martyrs of the primitive Canadian Church. " It was the scene of 
miracles and martyrdoms, and marvels of many kinds, and the centre of the mis- 
sionary efforts among the Indians. Indeed, few events of the picturesque early his- 
tory of Quebec left it untouched ; and it is worthy to be seen, no less for the wild 
beauty of the spot than for its heroical memories. About a league from the city, 
where the irregular wall of rock on which Quebec is built recedes from the river, 
and a grassy space stretches between the tide and the foot of the woody steep, the 
old mission and the Indian village once stood ; and to this day there yet stands the 
stalwart frame of the first Jesuit Residence, modernized, of course, and turned to 
secular uses, but firm as of old, and good for a century to come. AH around is a 
world of lumber, and rafts of vast extent cover the face of the waters in the ample 
cove, — one of many that indent the shore of the St. Lawrence. A careless village 
straggles along the roadside and the river's margin ; huge lumber-ships are loading 
for Europe in the stream ; a town shines out of the woods on the opposite shore ; 
nothing but a friendly climate is needed to make this one of the most charming 
scenes the heart could imagine." 

Cap Rouge is 9 M. from Quebec, and may be reached by the road which 
passes through Sillery. It is a village of 800 inhabitants, with a timber- 
trade and a large pottery; and is connected with Quebec by semi-daily 
stages. The cape forms the W. end of the great plateau of Quebec, which, 
according to the geologists, was formerly an island, around which the St. 
Lawrence flowed down the St. Charles valley. Beyond Cap Rouge are sev- 
eral very interesting villages: St. Augustin, with its venerable church; 
Deschambault ; and other old French parishes. The mansion of Re.dchiffe 
IS on the cape, and is near the site where Jaques Cartier and Roberval 
passed the winters of 1541 and 1542. On the same point batteries were 
erected by Montcalm and Murray. 

In returning from Cap Rouge to the city, it may be well to turn to the 
1. at St. Albans and gain the St. Foy road. The village of St. Foy is 5 
M. from Quebec, and contains many pleasant villas and mansions. To the 
N. is the broad and smiling valley of the St. Charles, in which may be 
seen Ancienne Lorette (two inns), a lumbering village of 3,000 inhabitants, 
on the Gosford Railway, 4^ M. from St. Foy. Beyond the Church of St. 



282 Route 69. POINT LEVI. 

Foy is the * monumental column, surmounted by a statue of Bellona (pre- 
sented by Prince Napoleon), which marks the site of the fiercest part of 
the Second Battle of the Plains, in which De Levis defeated Murray (1760). 
The monument was dedicated with great pomp in 1854, and stands over 
the grave of many hundreds who fell in the fight. Passing now the 
handsome Finlay Asylum and several villas, the suburb of St. John is 
entered. 

Point Levi (or Levis) is on the S. shore of the St. Lawrence, opposite 
Quebec, with which it is connected by ferry-boats running every 15 min- 
utes. It has about 10,000 inhabitants, Avith a large and increasing trade, 
being the terminus of the Quebec branch of the Grand Trunk Railway and 
of the Intercolonial and Levis & Kennebec Railways. On the lofty 
plateau beyond the town are the great forts which have been erected to 
defend Quebec from a second bombardment from this shore. Thej' are 
three in number, 1 M. apart, solidly built of masonry and earth, with large 
casemates and covered ways; and are to be armed with Moncrieff" guns of 
the heaviest calibre. It is said that these forts cost S 15,000,000, — a 
palpable exaggeration," — but they have been a very expensive piece of 
work, and are said to be more nearly like Cherbourg, the best of modern 
European fortifications, than any others in America. The batteries with 
which Gen. Wolfe destroyed Quebec, in 1759, were located on this line of 
heights. 

St. Joseph is 2 1 M. from Point Levi, and transacts a large business in 
■wood and timber. South Quebec is above Point Levi, and is closelj'^ con- 
nected with it. The Liverpool steamers stop here, and there are great 
shipments of lumber from the harbor. The town has 3,000 inhabitants, 
and is growing rapidly, 

St. Romuald (or New Liverpool) is 5 M. from Quebec, and adjoins S. 
Quebec, It has several factories and mills and a large lumber-trade, and 
is connected with Quebec by semi-daily steamers. The * Church of St. 
Romuald is "the finest on the Lower St. Lawrence," and is celebrated 
for its paintings (executed in 1868- 9 by Lamprech of Munich), 

In the choir are the Nativit}', Crucifixion, and Resurrection of Christ ; in the 
Chapel of St. Joseph, the Marriage of St. Joseph, the Flight into Egypt, Nazareth, 
Jesus and the Doctors, the Death of St. Joseph ; in the Chapel of the Virgin, the 
Annunciation, the Visitation, the Adoration of the Magi, and the Presentation in 
the Temple. Above are eight scenes from the life of St. Romuald, from his Conver- 
sion to his Apotheosis. There are 16 medaUions on a gold ground, representing Sts. 
Peter and Paul, the Four Evangelists, and five doctors of the Greek Church and 
five of the Latin Church. The altars were designed by Schneider of Munich, and 
the statues were carved in wood by Riidmiller of Munich. 

The * Chaudiere Falls are 4^ M. beyond St. Romuald, and over 9 M. 
from Quebec. They can only be reached by walking a considerable dis- 
tance through the bordering fields. " The deep green foliage of the woods 
overhanging, the roar of the cataract, and the solitude of the place, espe- 
cially as you emerge suddenly from the forest fastnesses on the scene, pro- 



ENVIRONS OF CHARLOTTETOWN. Route 70. 283 

duce a strong and vivid impression, not soon to be forgotten." Some 
visitors even prefer this fall to tliat of Montmorenci. The Cliaudiere de- 
scends from Lake Megantic, near the frontier of Maine, traversing the 
Canadian gold-fields. Arnold's hungry and heroic army followed the 
course of this river from its source to its mouth in their arduous winter- 
march, in 1775. The Chaudiere Falls are 3 M. from its confluence with 
the St. LaAvrence, and at a point where the stream is compressed into a 
breadth of 400 ft. The depth of the plunge is about. 135 ft., and the 
waters below are continuall}'- in a state of turbulent tossing. At the verge 
of the fall the stream is divided by large rocks, forming three channels, of 
which that on the W. is the largest. The view from the E. shore is the 
best. " The wild diversity of rocks, the foliage of the overhanging woods, 
the rapid motion, the effulgent brightness and deeply solemn sound of the 
cataracts, all combine to present a rich assemblage of objects highly 
attractive, especially when the visitor, emerging from the wood, is in- 
stantaneously sm'prised by the delightful scene." 

70. Q,uebec to La Bonne Ste. Anne.— The Goto de Beaupre. 

The steamer Montinorp/nci runs from Quebec to St. Anne twice a week. A bet- 
ter route is that by land, through the mediceval hamlets of the Cote de Beaupre. 
Three daj'S should be devoted to the trip, — one to go and one to return, and the 
other to the Falls of St. Anne and St. Fereol. Gentlemen who understand French 
will find this district very interesting for the scene of a pedestrian tour. Tlie inns 
at St. Anne and along the road are of a very humble character, resembling the way- 
side auberges of Brittany or Normandy ; but the people are courteous and well- 
disposed. 

Distances. — Quebec to the Montmorenci Falls, 7 M. ; Ange Gardien, 10; 
Chateau Kicher, 15 ; St. Anne, 22 (St. Joachim, 27 ; St. Fereol, 30). 

The Seigniorj' of the Cote de Beaupre contains several i^arishes of the N. shore, 
and is the most mountainous part of the Province. It was granted in 1636, and is 
at present an appanage of the Seminary of Quebec. No rural district N. of Mexico 
is more quaint and mediaeval than the Beaupre Road, with its narrow and ancient 
farms, its low and massive stone houses, roadside crosses and chapels, and unpro- 
gressive French population. But few districts are more beautiful than this, with 
the broad St. Lawrence on the S., and the garden-like Isle of Orleans ; the towers 
of Quebec on the W., and the sombre ridges of Cape Tourmente and the mountains ' 
of St. Anne and St. Fereol in advance. " In the inhabitant of the Cote de Beaupre 
you find the Noraian peasant of the reign of Louis XIV., with his annals, his songs, 
and his superstitions." (Abb]^ Ferl.\nb ) 

"Though all the while we had grand views of the adjacent country far up and 
down the river, and, for the most part, when we turned about, of Quebec, in the 
horizon behind us, — and we never beheld it without new surprise and admiration, 
— yet, throughout our walk, the Great River of Canada on our right hand was the 
main feature in the landscape, and this expands so rapidly below the Isle of Orleans, 
and creates such a breadth of level surface above its waters in that direction, that, 
looking down the river as we approached the extremity of that island, the St. Law- 
rence seemed to be opening into the ocean, though we were still about 325 M. from 
what can be called its mouth." (Thoreau.) 

Quebec to the Montmoi'enci Falls, see page 276. 

Beyond the Falls the road passes on over far-viewing and breezy hills, 
and between the snug estates of the rural farmers with their great barns 
and exposed cellars (caves). The village of Ange Gardien is guarded at 



284 Route 70. CHATEAU EICHEE. 

each end by roadside oratories, and lies in a sheltered glen near the river. 
It is clustered about a venerable old church, in which are paintings of the 
Annunciation and the Adoration of the Magi, On its front is a large sun- 
dial. This dreamy old parish has 1,500 inhabitants, and dates from 1678, 
•when it was founded by Bishop Laval. In 1759 it was overrun and occu- 
pied by the famous British corps of the Louisbourg Grenadiers. 

After ascending out of the glen of Ange Gardien, the road crosses ele- 
vated bluffs, and on the r. are rich and extensive intervales, cut into nar- 
row strips by walls. They extend to the margin of the river, beyond 
which are the white villages and tin-clad spires of the Isle of Orleans. 

Chateau Eicher is a compact and busy village of 2,000 inhabitants, 

over which, on a bold knoll, is the spacious parish-church. The views 

from the platform of this edifice are very pretty, including a large area of 

the parish, the village of St. Pierre on the Isle of Orleans, and the distant 

promontory of Cape Diamond. During the hunting season the Chateau- 

Eicher marshes are much frequented by Quebec sportsmen, who shoot 

great numbers of snipe, ducks, and partridges. The upland streams afford 

good trout-fishing. 

On a rocky promontory near Chateau Richer Tvas the site of the ancient Francis- 
can monastery. This massive stone building was erected about the year 1695, and 
was occupied by a community of peaceful monks. When the British army waa 
fighting the French near the Falls of Alontmoreuci,- a detachment was sent here to 
get provisions ; but the French villagers, under the influence of their spiritual 
guides, refused to give aid, and fortified themselves in the monastery. The reduc- 
tion of this impromptu fortress gave Gen. Wolfe considerable trouble, and it was 
only accomplished by sending against it the valiant Louisbourg Grenadiers and a 
section of artillery. The monks surrendered after their walls were well battered by 
cannon-shot, and were dispossessed by the troops. Before the bombardment the 
parish priest met the English officers, and told them that they fought for their king, 
and he should be as fearless in defending his people. The villagers made a fierce 
sortie from the convent during the siege, but were repulsed with the loss of 30 killed. 
The site of the monastery is now occupied by the school of the Sisters of Le Bon 
Pasteur, and part of its walls still remain. 

The little roadside auberge called the Hotel Campagne is about 1 M. be- 
yond Chateau Eicher. The *Sault a la Puce is about 2 M. beyond the 
village, and is visited by leaving the road where it crosses the Eiviere a la 
Puce, and ascending to the 1. by the path. The stream leaps over a long 
cliff, falling into the shadows of a bowery glen, and has been likened to 
the Cauterskill Falls. 

"This fall of La Puce, the least remarkable of the four which we visited in this 
vicinity, we had never heard of until we came to Canada, and yet, so far as I know, 
there is nothing of the kind in New England to be compared with it. Most travel- 
lers in Canada would not hear of it, though they might go so near as to hear it." 
(Thore.\u.) There are other pretty cascades farther up the stream, but they are 
difficult of access. 

" The lower fall is 112 ft. in height, and its banks, formed by elevated acclivities, 
wooded to their summits, spread around a solemn gloom, which the whiteness, the 
movements, and the noise of the descending waters combine to make interesting 

and attractive The environs of this river display, in miniature, a succession of 

romantic views. The river, from about one fourth of the height of the mountain, 



LA BONNE ST. ANNE. Route 70. 285 

discloses itself to the contemplation of the spectator, and delights his eye with varied 
masses of shining foam, which, suddenlj' issuing from a deep ravine hollowed out by 
the waters, glide down the almost perpendicular rock, and form a splendid curtain, 
which loses itself amid the foliage of surrounding woods. Such is the scene which 
the fall of La Puce exhibits." (Heriot.) 

La Bonne St. Anne (otherwise known as St. Anne du Nord and St. 
Anne de Beaupr^) is 7 M. bej'ond Chateau Richer, and is built on a level 
site just above the intervales. It has about 1,200 inhabitants, and is sup- 
ported by the thousands of pilgrims who frequent its shrine, and by sup- 
plying brick to the Quebec market. Immense numbers of wild fowl 
(especially pigeons) are killed here every year. There are numerous small 
inns in the narrow street, all of which are crowded during the season of 
pilgrimage. On the E. of the village is the new Church of St. Anne, a 
massive and beautiful structure of gray stone, in classic architecture; 
60,000 pilgrims visited the shrine in 1882. The old building of the 
* Church of St. Anne is on the bank just above, and is probably the most 
highly venerated shrine in Anglo-Saxon America. The relics of St. Anne 
are guarded in a crj^stal globe, and are exhibited at morning mass, when 
their contemplation is said to have effected many miraculous cures. Over 
the richly adorned high altar is a * picture of St Anne, by the famous 
French artist, Le Brun (presented by Viceroy Tracy); and the side altars 
have paintings (given by Bishop Laval) by the Franciscan monk Lefran- 
gois (who died in 1685). There are numerous rude ex-voto paintings, I'ep- 
resenting maiwelious deliverances of ships in peril, through the aid of St, 
Anne; and along the cornices and in the sacristy are great sheaves of 
crutches, left here by cripples and invalids who claimed to have been 
healed by the intercession of the saint. Within the church is the tomb 
of Philippe Rdnd de Portneuf, priest of St. Joachim, who was slain, with 
several of his people, while defending his parish against the British troops 
(1759). 

" Above all, do not fail to make your pilgrimage to the shrine of St. Anne 

Here, when Aillebout was governor, he began with his own hands the pious work, and 
a habitant of Beaupre, Louis Guimont, sorely afflicted with rheumatism, came grin- 
niijg with pain to lay three stones in the foundation, in honor probably of St. Anne, 
St. Joachim, and their daughter, the Virgin. Instantly he was cured. It was but 
the beginning of a long course of miracles continued more than two centuries, and 
continuing still. Their fame spread far and wide. The devotion to St. Anne be- 
came a distinguishing feature of Canadian Catholicity, till at the present day at 
least thirteen parishes bear her name Sometimes the whole shore was cov- 
ered with the wigwams of Indian converts who had paddled their birch canoes from 
the farthest wilds of Canada. The more fervent among them would crawl on their 
knees from the shore to the altar. And, in our own day, every summer a far greater 
concourse of pilgrims, not in paint and leathers, but in cloth and millinery, and not 
in canoes, but in steamboats, bring their offerings and their vows to the ' Bonne St. 
Anne."" (Parkman.) 

According to the traditions of the Roman Church, St. Anne was the mother of 
the Blessed Virgin, and after her body had reposed for some years in the cathedral 
at Jerusalem, it was sent by St. James to St. Lazare, first bishop of Marseilles. He, 
in turn, sent it to St. Auspice, bishop of Apt, who placed it in a subterranean 
chapel to guard it fi-om profanation in the approaching heathen inroads. Barbarian 
hordes afterwards swept over Apt and obUterated the church. 700 year^ later, 



286 Route 70. THE FALLS OF ST. ANNE. 

Charlemagne visited the town, and while attending service in the cathedral, several 
marvellous incidents took place, and the forgotten remains of St. Anne were recov- 
ered from the grotto, whence a perpetual light was seen and a delicious fragrance 
emanated. Ever since that day the relics of the saint have been highly venerated 
in France. The colonists who founded Canada brought with them this special de- 
votion, and erected numerous churches in her honor, the chief of which was St. 
Anne de Beau pre, which was founded in 1658 by Gov. d'Aillebout on the estate pre- 
sented by Etieune Lessart. In 1G6S the cathedi-al-chapter of Cai'casson sent to this 
new shrine a relic of St. Anne (a boue of the hand), together with a lamp and a 
reliquary of silver, and some fine paintings. The legend holds that a little child 
was thrice favored with heavenly visions, on the site of the church ; and that, on 
her third appearance, the Virgin commanded the little one to tell the people that 
they should build a church on that spot. The completion of the building was sig- 
nalized by a remarkable miracle. The vessels ascending the St. Lawrence during 
the French domination, always fired off a saluting broadside when passing this 
point, in recognition of their delivery from the perils of the sea. Bishop Laval 
made St. Anne's Day a feast of obligation ; and rich ex-voto gilts were placed in the 
church by the lutendant Talon, the -Marquis de Tracy , and M. d"Iberville, " the Cid of 
New France."' For over two centuries the pilgrimages have been almost incessant, 
and hundreds of miraculous cures have been attributed to La Bonne St. An)ie. Be- 
tween June and October, ISTi, over 20,000 pilgrims visited the church, some of whom 
came from France and some from the United States. An extract from a Lower- 
Canada newspaper of October, 187-4, describes one of the latest of these curious 
phenomena, the cunng of a woman who had been bedridden for 4 years: "She 
was placed in the Church of St. Anne, on a portable bed, at 6 o'clock on Wednesday 
morning. After low mass she was made to venerate the relics of St Anne. A 
grand mass was chanted a few minutes aftex'wards. Toward the middle of the divine 
office the patient moved a httle. After the elevation she sat up. At the termina- 
tion of the mass she got up and walked and made the circuit of the church." 

The Cote de Beaupre and the site of St. Anne Mere granted by the Compagnie des 
Cents Associes, in 1636, to the Sieur Chefl'ault de la lleguardiere, who, however, 
made but little progress in settling this broad domain, and finally sold it to Bishop 
Laval. In 1661, after the fall of Montreal, this district was ravaged by the merciless 
Iroquois, and in 16S2 St. Anne was garrisoned by three companies of French regu- 
lars. Ou the 23d of August, 1759, St. Anne was attacked by SCO Highlanders and 
Light Infantry and a company of Rangers, under command of Capt. Montgomery. 
The place was defended by 200 villagers and Indians, who kept up so hot a fire from 
the shelter of the houses that the assailants were forced to halt and wait until a 
flanking movement had been made by the Rangers. Many of the Canadians were 
slain during their retreat, and all who fell into the hands of the British were put to 
death. The victors then burnt the village, saving only the ancient church, in 
■which they made their quarters. A tradition of the country says that they set fire 
to the church three times, but it was delivered by St. Anne. The following day 
they advanced on Ch^tteau Richer and Ange Gardien, burning evei-y house and barn, 
and cutting down the fruit trees and young grain. They were incessantly annoyed 
by the rifles of the countrymen, and gave no quarter to their prisoners. 

The * Falls of St. Anne are visited by passing out from St. Anne on 
the road to St. Joachim, as far as the inn, " hke an auherge of Brittany," 
at the crossing of the St. Anne Eiver. Thence the way leads up the river- 
bank through dark glens for 3-4 M., and the visitor is conducted by a 
guide. In descending from the plateau to the plain below, the river forms 
seven cascades in a distance of about a league, some of which are of rare 
beauty, and have been preferred even to the Trenton Falls, in New York. 
The lower fall is 130 ft. high. 

•' A magnificent spectacle burst upon our sight. A rapid stream, breaking its way 
through the dark woods, and from pool to pool among masses of jagged rock, sud- 
denly cleaves for itself a narrow chasm, over which you may spring if you have an 
iron "nerve, and then falls, broken into a thousand fantastic forms of spray along the 



ST. JOACHIM.' Route70. 287 

steep face of the rock, into a deep gorge of horrid darkness. I do not know the vol- 
ume of water ; I forgot to guess the height, —it may be two hundred feet. Figures 
are absurd in the estimate of the beauty and grandeur of a scene like this. I only 
know that the whole impression of the scene was one of the most intense I have ever 
experienced. The disposition of the mass of broken waters is the most graceful con- 
ceivable. The irresistible might of the rush of the fall, the stupendous upright 
masses of black rock that form the chasm ; the heavy fringe of dark woods all 
around; the utter solitariness and gloom of the scene, — all aid to impress the 
imagination. An artist might prefer this spot to Niagara." (Marshall.) 

" Here the river, 1-200 ft. wide, comes flowing rapidly over a rocky bed out of 
that interesting wilderness which stretches toward Hudson's Bay and Davis's Sti-aits. 
Ha Ha Bay, on the Saguenay, was about 100 M. N. of where we stood. Looking on 
the map, I find that the first country on the N. which bears a name is that part of 
Rupert's Land called East Main. This river, called after the Holy Anne, flowing 
from such a direction, here tumbles over a precipice, at present by three channels, 
how far down I do not know, but far enough for all our purposes, and to as good a 

distance as if twice as far The foiling water seemed to jar the very rocks, and 

the noise to be ever increasing. The vista was through a narrow and deep cleft in 
the mountain, all white suds at the bottom." From the bed of the stream below 
" rose a perpendicular wall, I will not venture to say how far, but only tha*} it was 

the highest perpendicular wall of bare rock that 1 ever saw This precipice is 

not sloped, nor is the material soft and crumbling slate as at Montmorenci, but it 
rises perfectly perpendicular, like the side of a mountain fortress, and is cracked into 
vast cubical masses of gray and black rock shining with moisture, as if it were the 

ruin of an ancient wall built by Titans Take it altogether, it was a most wild 

and rugged and stupendous chasm, so deep and narrow where a river had worn it- 
self a passage through a mountain of rock, and all around was the comparatively 
untrodden wilderness." (Thoreau.) 

The base of the St. Anne Mts. is reached by a road running up the val- 
ley for 3-5 M, The chief peak is 2,687 ft. high, but the view thence is 
mtercepted by trees. The Valley of St. Fereol is 8 M. from St. Anne, and 
is surrounded by beautiful scenery. It contains 1,100 inhabitants, and in 
the vicinity are several lofty and picturesque cascades. St. Tite des Caps 
is a village of 800 inhabitants, 5 M. from the river, between Cape Tour- 
mente and the St. Fereol Mts. The trouting in these glens is very good, 
and rare sport is found at LaJce St. Joachim, several miles beyond. 

St. Joachim is 5 M. beyond St, Anne, and is a village of 1,000 inhabi- 
tants, situated near the river, and opposite St. Fran9ois d' Orleans. 2 M. 
beyond this point is the Chateau Bellevue and the farm of the Quebec 
Seminary. The summit of Cape Tourmente is about 3 M. from the 
chateau, and is sometimes ascended for the sake of its superb * view. The 
Seminarians have kept a cross upon this peak for the last half-century ; 
and in 1869, 44 Catholic gentlemen, led by the Archbishop of Quebec, 
erected a new one, 25 ft. high, and covered with tin. 

The Chciteau Bellevue is a long and massive building of limestone, situated near 
the foot of Cape Tourmente, and surrounded by noble old forests, in which are 
shrines of St. Joseph and the Virgin. The chateau is furnished with reading and 
billiard rooms, etc. , and is occupied every summer by about 40 priests and students 
from the Seminary of Quebec. The neat Chapel of St. Louis de Gonzaga (the pro- 
tector of youth) is S. of the chateau. 

Near this point Jaques Cartier anchored in 1535, and was visited by the Indians, 
who brought him presents of melons and maize. In 1823 Champlain came hither 
from Quebec and founded a settlement, whose traces are still seen. This post was 
destroyed by Sir David Kirke's men in 1628, and the settlers were driven away. 

St. Joachim was occupied in August, 1759, by 150 of the 78th Highlanders, who 



288 Route 71. THE ISLE OF ORLEANS. 

had just marched down the Isle of Orleans, through St. Pierre and St. Famille. 
They were engaged in the streets by armed villagers, and had a sharp skirmish 
before the Canadians were driven into the forest, after which the Scottish soldiers 
fortified themselves in the priest's house, near the church. 

The site of the seminary was occupied before 1670 by Bishop Laval, who founded 
here a rural seminary in which the youth of the peasantry were instructed. They 
were well grounded in the doctrine and discipline of the Church, and were in- 
structed in the mechanic arts and in various branches of farming. This was the 
first " agricultural college " in America. The broad seigniory of the Cote de Beaupre, 
which lies between St. Joachim and Beauport, was then an appanage of Bishop 
Laval, and was more populous than Quebec itself. "Above the vast meadows of 
the parish of St, Joachim, that here border the St. Lawrence, there rises like an 
island a low flat hill, hedged round with forests, like the tonsured head of a monk. 
It was here that Laval planted his school. Across the meadows, a mile or more dis- 
tant, towers the mountain prom.ontory of Cape Tourmente. You may climb its 
woody steeps, and from the top, waist-deep in blueberry-bushes, survey, from 
Kamouraska to Quebec, the grand Canadian world outstretched below ; or mount 
the neighboring heights of St. Anne, where, athwart the gaunt arms of ancient 
pines, the river lies shimmering in summer haze, the cottages of the habitants are 
strung like beads of a rosary along the meadows of Beaupre, the shores of Orleans 
bask in warm light, and far on the horizon the rock of Quebec rests like a faint gray 
cloud ; or traverse the forest till the roar of the torrent guides you to the rocky sol- 
itude where it holds its savage revels Game on the river ; trout in lakes, 

brooks, and pools ; wild fruits and flowers on the meadows and mountains; a thou- 
sand resources of honest and healthful recreation here v.ait the student emancipated 
from books, but not parted for a moment from the pious influence that hangs about 
the old walls embosomed in the woods of St. Joachim. Around on plains and hills 
stand the dwellings of a peaceful peasantry, as difl'erent from the restless population 
of the neighboring States as the denizens of some Norman or Breton village." (Park- 
man.) 

71. The Isle of Orleans. 

steam ferry-boats leave Quebec three times daily for the Isle of Orleans. The 
trip gives beautiful views of the city and its marine environs, and of the Mont- 
morenci Falls and the St. Anne Mts. 

The island is traversed by two roads. The N. shore road passes from "West Point 
to St. Pierre, in 5 M. ; St. Famille, 14 M. ; and St Francois, 20 M. The S. shore 
road runs from West Point to Patrick's Hole, in 6 M. ; St. Laurent, 7| ; St. John, 
13^ ; St. Francois, 21. A transverse road crosses the island from St. Laurent to St. 
Pierre. 

The Isle of Orleans is about 3^ M. from Quebec, and contains 70 square 
miles (47,923 acres) of land, being 20 M. long and hi M. wide. The beau- 
tiful situation of the island, in the broad St. Lawrence, its picturesque 
heights and umbrageous groves, its quaint little hamlets and peaceful and 
primitive people, render Orleans one of the most interesting districts of 
the Lower Province, and justifj^ its title of "the Garden of Canada." 

The island was called Mini go by the Indians, a large tribe of whom lived here 
and carried on the fisheries, providing also a place of retreat for the mainland tribes 
in case of invasion. In 1535 Cartier explored these shores and the hills and forests 
beyond, being warmly welcomed by the resident Indians and feasted with fish, 
honey, and melons. He speaks of the noble forests, and adds: " We found there 
great grape-vines, such as we had not seen before in all the world ; and for that we 
named it the Isle of Bacchus." A year later it received the name of the Isle of 
Orleans, in honor of De Valois, Duke of Orleans, the son of Francis I. of France. 
The popular name was Ulsle des Sorciers (Wizards' Island), either on account of 
the marvellous skill of the natives in foretelling future storms and nautical events, 
or else because the superstitious colonists on the mainland were alarmed at the 
nightly movements of lights along the insular shores, and attributed to df'mons and 
wizards the dancing fires which were carried by the Indians in visiting their fish- 
nets during the night-tides. 



ST. PIEREE D'ORLEANS. Route71. 289 

The island was granted in 1620 to the Sieur de Caen by the Duke de Montmorenci 
Viceroy of New France. In 1675 this district was formed into the Earldom of St' 
Laurent, and was conferred on M. Berthelot, who assumed the title of the Count of 
St. Lawrence. In 1651 the N. part was occupied by 600 Christian Hurons, who had 
taken refuge under the walls of Quebec from the exterminating Iroquois. In 1656 
the Iroquois demanded that. they should come and dwell in their country, and upon 
their refusal fell upon the Hurons with a force of 3(J0 warriors, devastated the island, 
and killed 72 of the unfortunate Christians. Two tribes were compelled soon after 
to surrender and be led as captives into the Iroquois country, while the Tribe of the 
Cord left the island and settled at Lorette. The Isle was overrun by Iroquois in 
1661, and in an action with them at Riviere Maheu, De Lauzon, Seneschal of New 
France, and all his guards were killed, preferring to die fighting than to surrender 
and be tortured. The great cross of Argentenay was carried away and raised in tri- 
umph at the Iroquois village on Lake Onondaga (New York). 

For nearly a century the Isle enjoyed peace and prosperity, until it had 2,000 in- 
habitants with 5,000 cattle and rich and productive farms. Then came the advance 
of Wolfe's fleet ; the inhabitants all fled to Charlesbourg ; the unavailing French 
troops and artillery left these shores ; Wolfe's troops landed at St. Laurent, and 
erected camps, forts, and hospitals on the S. E. point ; and soon afterward the Brit- 
ish forces systematically ravaged the deserted country, burning nearly every house 
on the Isle, and destroying the orchards. 

_ The Isle is now divided into two seigniories, or lordships, whose revenues and 
titles are vested in ancient French fomilies of Quebec. The soil is rich and di- 
versified, and its pretty vistas justify Charlevox's sketch (of 1720): " We took a 
stroll on the Isle of Orleans, whose cultivated fields extend around like a broad am- 
phitheatre, and gracefully end the view on every side. I have found this country 
beautiful, the soil good, and the inhabitants very much at their ease." The agri- 
cultural interest is now declining, owing to the antique and unprogressive ideas of 
the farmers, who confine themselves to small areas and neglect alternation of crops. 
The farms are celebrated for their excellent potatoes, plums, apples, and for a rare 
and delicious variety of small cheeses. The people are temperate, generous, and 
hospitable, and, by reason of their insular position, still preserve the primitive 
Norman customs of the early settlers under Champlain and Frontena?. The Isle 
and the adjacent shore of Beauprehave been called the nursery of Canada, so many 
have been the emigrants from these swarming hives who have settled in other parts 
of the Provinces. 

St. Pierre is the village nearest to Quebec (9 M.), and is reached by 
ferry-steamers, which also run to BeauUeu. It has about 700 inhabitants, 
and is beautifully situated nearly opposite the Montmorenci Falls and 
Ange Gardien. The first chapel was erected here in 1651 by Pere Lale- 
mant, and was used by the Hurons and French in common. In 1769 the 
. present church of St. Pierre was erected. On this shore, in 1825, were 
built the colossal timber-ships, the Columbus, 3,700 tons, and the Baron 
Renfrew, 3,000 tons, the largest vessels that the world had seen up to that 
time. 

The convent of St. Famille was founded in 1685, by the Sisters of the 
Congregation, and since that time the good nuns have educated the girls 
of the village, having generally about 70 in the institution. The nunnery 
is seen near the church, and was built in 1699, having received additions 
from time to time as the village increased. Its cellar is divided into nar- 
row and contracted cells, Avhose design has been long forgotten. The 
woodwork of the convent was burned by Wolfe's foragers in 1759, but Avas 
restored in 1761, after the Conquest of Canada. The first church of St. 
Famille was built in 1671, and the present church dates from 1745. The 
13 s 



290 Route 71. ST. LAUEENT D'ORLEANS. 

village is nearly opposite Chateau Kicher, and commands fine views of the 
Laurentian Mts. 

The Parish of St. Frangois includes the domain of the ancient fief of 
Argentenay, and was formed in 1678. In 1683 the first church was bu\lt, 
and the present church dates from 1736, and was plundered by Wolfe's 
troops in 1759. The view from the church is very beautiful, and includes 
the St. Lawrence to the horizon, the white villages of the S. coast, and the 
isles of Madame, Grosse, and Reaux. On the N. shore, at the end of the 
island, are the broad meadows of Argentenay, where wild-fowl and other 
game are sought by the sportsmen of Quebec. This district looks aci'oss 
the N. Channel upon the dark and imposing ridges of the St. Anne Mts. and 
the peaks of St. Ferdol ; and the view from the church is yet more exten- 
sive and beautiful. 

The church of St. John was built in 1735, near the site of a chapel 
dating from 1675, and contemporary with the hamlet. This parish is 
famous for the number of skilful river-pilots which it has furnished. It 
has about 1,300 inhabitants, and is the most im.portant parish on the island. 
It is nearly opposite the S. shore village of St. Michel (see page 254). 

St. Laurent is 7 M. from St. Jean, upon the well-settled royal road. 
The parish is entered after crossing the Riviere Maheu, Avhere the Seneschal 
of New France fell in battle. The Church of St. Laurent is a stately 
edifice of cut stone with a shining tin roof, and is 113 ft. in length. It re- 
placed churches of 1675 and 1697, and was consecrated in 1861. The 
Boute des Pretres runs N. from St. Laurent to St. Pierre, and was so named 
50 years ago, when this church had a piece of St. Paul's arm-bone, which 
was taken away to St. Pierre, and thence was stolen at night by the St. 
Laurent people. After long controversy, the Bishop of Quebec ordered 
that each church should restore to the other its own relics, which was 
done along this road by large pi'ocessions, the relics being exchanged at 
the great black cross midway on the road. 1^ M, W. of St. Laurent is 
the celebrated haven called Trou St. Patrice (since 1689), or Patricks 
Eole, where vessels seek shelter in a storm, or outward-bound ships await, 
orders to sail. The river is Ij M. wide here, and there are 10 - 12 fathoms 
of water in the cove. 2 M. W. of this point is the Caverne de Bontemps, 
a grotto about 20 ft. deep cut in the solid rock near the level of the river. 



QUEBEC TO THE SAGUENAY. Route 7%. 291 



72. Quebec to Cacouna and the Saguenay River.— The 
North Shore of the St. Lawrence. 

The St. Lawrence Steam Navigation Company has several first-class steamers ply-« 
ing on the lower reaches of the river. The time-table helow is that of 1874 ; but if 
any changes have been made, they may be seen in the Quebec newspapers , or at the 
ticket-oifi.ce, opposite the St. Louis Hotel. 

At 7 A.M., on Tuesday and Friday, the Saguenay leaves Quebec for St. Paul's 
Bay, Les Eboulements, Murray Bay, Riviere du Loup (Cacouna), Tadousac, Ha Ha 
Bay, and Chicoutimi ; reaching Quebec again on Thursday and Monday mornings. 

On Wednesday, Thui-sday, and Saturday the Union or the St. Lmcrence leaves 
Quebec at 7 a.m., for Murray Bay, Riviere du Loup, Tadousac, and Ha Ha Bay; 
reaching Quebec the second morning after. 

On Saturday the St. Lawrence leaves Quebec, at noon, for Murray Bay, Riviere 
du Loup, and Rimouski ; reaching Quebec again on Tuesday morning. 

Distances. — Quebec to St. Laurent, 12 M. ; St. John" (Orleans), 17; Isle Ma- 
dame, 23 ; €ape Tourniente, 28 ; St. Francois Xavier, 45; St. Paul's Bay, 55 ; Les 
Eboulements, 66 ; Murray Bay, 82 ; Riviere Du Loup, 112 (Cacouna, 118) ; Tadousac, 
134 (Chicoutimi, 235). 

The S. shore is described in Eoute 67 (pages 246-255), and the Isle of 
Orleans in Route 71. As the steamer moves down across the Basin of 
Quebec, beautiful * views are afforded on all sides, including a fascinating 
reti'ospect of the lofty fortress. 

" Behind us lay the city, with its tinned roofs glittering in the morning sunshine, 
and its citadel-rock towering over the river ; on the southern shore. Point Levi, 
picturesquely climbing the steep bank, embowered in dark trees ; then the wooded 
bluffs with their long levels of farm-land behind them, and the scattered cottages of 
the habitants, while northward the shore rose with a gradual, undulating sweep, 
glittering, fnr inland, with houses, and gardens, and crowding villages, until it 
reached the dark stormy line of the Laurentiau Mts. in the N. E .... The sky, the 
air, the colors of the landscape, were from Norway ; Quebec and the svirrounding 
villages suggested Normandy, — except the tin roofs and spires, which were Russian, 
rather; while here and there, though rarely, were the marks of English occupancy. 
The age, the order, the apparent stabilit}^ and immobility of society, as illustrated 
by external things, belonged decidedly to Europe. This part of America is but 70 
or 80 years older than New England, yet there seems to be a difference of 600 years." 
(Bayard Taylor.) 

After running for 17 M. between the populous shores and bright villages 
of Orleans and Bellechasse (see page 254), the steamer tui'ns to the N. E., 
when off St. John, and goes tow^ard Cape Toui-mente, passing betw^een Isle 
Madame and the Isle of Orleans. Then St. Francois is passed, on the 1., 
and the meadows of Argentenay are seen, over which is St. Joachim. As 
the N. Channel is opened, a distant view of St. Anne de Beaupr^ may be 
obtained, under the frowning St. Aniie Mts. Cape Tourmente (see page 
287) is now passed, beyond which are the great Laurentian peaks of Cape 
Rouge and Cajje Gribaune, over 2,000 ft. high, and impinging so closely on 
the river that neither road nor houses can be built. These mountains are 
o^" granite, and are partially wooded. 3 JM. N. E. of Cape Tourmente is a 
lighthouse, 175 ft. above the water, on the rugged slope of Cape Ronge. 
A few miles to the E. is the Sault au Cochon, under the crest of a mountain 
2,370 ft. high. 



292 Route 72. ST. PAUL'S BAY. 

Boticher asserted, in 1663, that the shore between Cape Tourmente and Tadousae 
was uninhabitable, " being too lofty, and all rockj^ and escarped." But the French 
Canadians, hardy and tireless, and loving the St. Lawrence more than the Normans 
love the Seine, have founded numerous hamlets on the rocks of this iron shore. The 
coast between St. Joachim and St. Frani^ois Xavier is as yet unoccupied. 

" We ran along the bases of headlands, 1,000 to 1,500 ft. in height, wild and dark 
with lowering clouds, gray with rain, or touched with a golden transparency by the 
sunshine, — alternating belts of atmospheric effect, which greatly increased their 
beauty. Indeed, all of us who saw the Lower St. Lawrence for the first time were 
surprised by the imposing character of its scenery." (Bayard Taylor.) 

Beyond Abattis and the high cliffs of Cape Maillard the steamer pa.sses 
the populous village of St. Frangois Xavier, extending up the valley of the 
Bouchard Eiver. On the S. a long line of picturesque islets is passed 
(see page 254). Beyond Cape Labaie the, steamer lies to off St. Paul's 
Bay, whose unique and beautiful scenery is seen from the deck. 

St. PauPs Bay (two small inns) is a parish of 4,000 inhabitants, situ- 
ated amid the grandest scenery of the N. shore. The people are all French, 
and the village is clustered about the church and convent near the Gouffre 
Kiver. In the vicinity are found iron, plumbago, limestone, garnet-rock, 
and curious saline and sulphurous springs. It is claimed that "no parish 
offers so much of interest to the tourist, the poet, or the naturalist." The 
wild and turbulent streams that sweep down the valley have carried away 
all the bridges Avhich have been erected by the people. Passengers who 
wish to land at this point are transferred from the steamer to a large sail- 
boat. 

The vistas up the valleys of the Gouffre and the Moulin Rivers show distant 
ranges of picturesque blucniountains, with groups of conical Alpine peaks. In 1791 
it isclaimcd that the shores of the bay were shaken by earthquakes for many days, 
after which one of the peaks to the N. belched forth great volumes of smoke and 
passed into tlie volcanic state, emitting columns of flame through sereral days. The 
peaks are bare and white, with sharp precipices near the summit. The valley of 
the Gouffre has been likened to the Yale of Clwyd, in Wales, and is traversed by a 
fair road along the r. bank of the rapid river. 10 - 12 M. from the bay are the ex- 
tensive deposits of magnetic iron-ore which were explored by order of Intendant 
Talon, a century and a half ago. In the upper part of the valley, 9 M. from St. 
Paul's Bay, is St. Urbam, a French Catholic village of about 1,000 inhabitants. By 
this route" the tri-weekly Royal mail-stages cross to Chicoutimi, on the upper Sague- 
nay (see page 300). St. Placide (Clairvaux) is also back of St. Paul's Bay, and has 
400 inhabitants. 

" In all the miles of country I had passed over, I had seen nothing to equal the 
exquisite beauty of the Tale of Bale St. Paul. From the hill on which we stood, 
the whole valley, of many miles in extent, was visible. It was perfectly level, and 
covered from end to end' with httle hamlets, and several churches, with here and 

there a few small patches of forest Like the Happy Talley of Rasselas, it was 

surrounded by the most wild and rugged mountains, which rose in endless succes- 
sion one behind the other, stretchin'g' away in the distance, till they resembled a 
faint bkie wave in the horizon." ( Ballaxttne. ' 

" Nothing can be more picturesque than the landscape which may be viewed from 
the crest of Cap au Corbeau. Have you courage to clamber up the long slopes of 
Cap au Corbeau ; to see the white-sailed schooners at the entrance of the bay ; Jp 
comprehend the thousand divers objects at your feet ; the sinuous course of the 
Maree and of the serpentine Gouffre ; on the S. the old mansions and rich pas- 
tures ; to see the church and convent and the village, the Cap a la Rey, the bottom 
of the bay ; and, farther away, the shores of St. Antoine Perou, St. Jerome, St. 
John, St. Joseph, and St. Flavien ? " (Trddelle.) 

The Bay was settled early in the 17th century, and has always been noted for its 



ISLE AUX COUDKES. Route 72. 293 

earthquakes and volcanic disturbances. In October, 1870, it felt such a severe 
shock that nearly every house in the valley was damaged. In 1759 the village was 
destroyed by Gorham's New-England Rangers, alter the inhabitants had defended 
. It for two hours. 

" Above the Gnlph I have just mentioned is the Bay of St. Paul, where the Hab- 
itations begin on the North Sjde ; and there are some Woods of Pine-Trees, which 
are much valued ; Here are also some red Pines of great Beauty. Messrs. of the 
Seminary of Quebec are Lords of this Bay. Six Leagues higher, there is a very 
high Promontory, which terminates a Chain of Mountains, which extend above 400 
Leagues to the AFest ; It is called Cape Tourmente, probably because he that g,ive it 
this Name, suffered here by a Gust of Wind.'" (Charlevoix.) 

The W*. promontory of St. Paul's Bay is Cape Labaie ; that on the E , opposite 
the Isle aux Coudres, is Cape Corbfau. " This cape has something of the majestic 
and of the mournful. At a little distance it might be taken for one of the immense 
tombs erected in the middle of the Egyptian deserts by the vanity of some puny 
mortal. A cloud of birds, children of storm, wheel continually about its fir- 
crowned brow, and seem, by their sinister croaking, to intone the funeral of some 
dying man," 

Between St. Paul's Bay and the Isle aux Coudres is the whu-lpool 
called Le Gouffre, where the water suddenly attains a depth of 30 fath- 
oms, and at ebb-tide the outer currents are repulsed from Coudres to Cor- 
beau in wide swirling eddies. It is said that before the Gouffre began to 
fill with sand schooners which were caught in these eddies described a 
series of spiral curves, the last of which landed them on the rocks. It 
was the most dreaded point on this shore, and many lives were lost here; 
but its navigation is now safe and easy. 

The Isle aux Coudres is 54 M. long and 2k M. wide, and is a charm- 
ing remnant of primitive Norman life. It has about 800 inhabitants, erj- 
gaged in farming, and more purely mediasval French than any other 
people in Canada. The houses are mostly along the lines of the N. W. 
and S. E. shores; and the Church of St. Louis is on the S. W. point. 
The island is still owned by the Seminary of Quebec, to which it was 
granted in 1687. Large numbers of porpoises are caught between this 
point and the Kiviere Quelle, on the S. shore. Bayard Ta3dor says: 
" The Isle aux Coudi-es is a beautiful pastoral mosaic in the pale emerald 
setting of the river." 

Off the Isle aux Coudres, and between that point and Riviere Ouelle, great num- 
bers of white whales are caught, in fish-pounds made for the purpose. These fish 
(often taken for porpoises) live in the Lower St. Lawrence from April to October, 
when they migrate to the Gulf and the Arctic Ocean. They are from 14 to 22 ft. 
in length, and yield 100-120 gallons of fine oil, which is much used for lighthouse 
purposes, because it does not freeze in winter. A valuable leather is made from 
their skins. 

When Cartier was advancing up the St. Lawrence in 1535, under the direction of 
the Quebec Indians whom he had abducted from Gasp ■, he landed on this island, 
and, marvelling at the numerous hazel-trees upon the hills, named it L' Isie aux 
Coudres (Hazel-tree Island). This point he made the division between the country 
of Saguenay and that of Canada. " In 1663 an Earthquake rooted up a Mountain, 
and threw it upon the Isle of Cou/fres, which was made one half larger than before, 
and in the Place of the Mountain there appeared a Gulf, which it is not safe to 
approach." 

The island was deserted by its inhabitants in the summer of 1759, when great 
British fleets were anchored off the shores, but several bnats' crews were driven 
from the strand by rangers. Three British officers landed on the isle, carrying a flag 



294 Route 72. MURRAY BAY. 

•which they were about to raise on the chief eminence before the fleet ; but they 
were cut off by a small part}' of Canadians, and were led prisoners to Quebec. Ad- 
miral Durell hrst reached the island, with 10 frigates, and captured 3 French ves- 
sels bearing 1,800 barrels of powder. 

The steamer runs S, E. for several miles in the narrow channel between 
the Isle aux Coudres and the mountains of the N. Shore. At 11 M. from 
St. Paul's Bay it rounds in at the pier (920 ft. long) of the parish of Les 
ifiboulements, a farming district of 2,400 inhabitants. "High on the 
crest of the Laurentides, old as the world, the tourist sees on the N., on 
landing at theEboulements pier, the handsome parish-church." The situa- 
tion of this village is one of the most quaint and charming on the river, 
and overlooks the St. Lawrence for many leagues. The white houses are 
grouped snugly about the tall Notre Dame Church, above which, the dark 
peak of Mt. Eboulements rises to the height of 2,547 ft. 

Tn the vicinity of Les "Rboulements are visible the tracks of the great land-slides 
of ions, in that season when so many marvellous phenomena were seen in Canada. 
The St. Lawrence ran " white as milk," as far down as Tadousac ; ranges of hills were 
thrown down into the river, or were swallowed up in the plains ; earthquakes shat- 
tered the houses and shook the trees until the Indians said that the forests were 
drunk ; vast fissures opened in the ground ; and the courses of streams were changed. 
Meteors, fiery-winged serpents, and ghastly spectres were seen in the air ; roarings 
and mysterious voices sounded on every side ; and the confessionals of all the 
churches were crowded with penitents, awaiting the end of the world. 

The steamer now rounds the huge mass of ]\It. Eboulements, passing the 
rugged spurs called Goose Cape and Cape Corneille. On the E. slope is 
seen the large village of St. Irenee, where 900 French people presei"ve their 
ancient customs and language. A few miles farther E. the steamer rounds 
in at Murray Bay, 

Murray Bay is the favorite summer resort of the N, Shore, and has 
fine facilities for boating and bathing, with a long firm beach. It is also 
one of the best fi.shing-centres in the Province, and sportsmen meet with 
success in the Avaters of the beautiful Murray Eiver, or the Giavel and 
Petit Lakes, The steamer stops at the long wharf at Point a Pique, near 
which are the hotels, frequented in summer by many Quebec families, who 
enjoy the beautiful scenery of the adjacent country. There are also sum- 
mer cottages about the base of Cap a VAigle. The tourists occupy Point 
a Pique Avith their hotels, and make excursions to the lakes and the falls. 
The French town is at the bridge over the Murray River, and is clustered 
about the great church and the court-house of Charlevoix County. It 
has 3,000 inhabitants. 

" Of all tlie picturesque parishes on the shore of our grand river, to which innu- 
merable swarms of tourists go every summer to take the waters, none will interest 
the lover of sublime landscapes more than Malbaie. One must go there to enjoy the 
rugged, the grandeur of nature, the broad horizons. He will not find here the beau- 
tiful wheat-fields of Kamouraska, the pretty and verdurous shores of Cacouna or 
Rimouski, where the languorous citizen goes to strengthen his energies during tiie 
dog-days; here is savage and uuconquered nature, and view-points yet more majes- 
tic than those of the coasts and walls of Bic. Precipice on precipice ; impenetrable 
gorges ill the projections of the rocks ; peaks which lose themselves in the clouds, 
and among which the bears wander through July, in search of berries; where the 



RIVIERE DU LOUP. Route 72. 295 

caribou browses in September ; where the solitary crow and the royal eagle make 
their nests in May ; in short, alpine landscapes, the pathless highlands of Scotland, 
a Byronic nature, tossed about, heaped up in the North, far from the ways of civ- 
ilized men, near a volcano that from time to time awakens and shakes the country in 
a manner to frighten, but not to endanger, the romantic inhabitants. According to 
some, in order to enjoy all the fulness of these austere beauties, one must be at the 
privileged epoch of life. If then you wish to taste, in their full features, the dreamy 
solitudes of the shores, the grottos, the great forests of Point a Pique or Cap i 
I'Aigle, or to capture by hundreds the frisking trout of the remote Gravel Lake, you 
must have a good eye, a well-nerved arm, and a supple leg." (LeMoine.) 

This district was formerly known as the King's Farm, and had 30 houses at the 
conquest of Canada. It was then granted to the Scottish officers. Major Nairn and 
Malcom Eraser, who soon promoted its settlement. It was explored in June, 1608, 
by Champlain, who named it Malle Bale, on account of " the tide which runs there 
marvellously, and, even though the weather is calm, the bay is greatly moved." It 
is still geuerally known as Malbaie, though the English use the name Murray Bay, 
given in honor of the general who granted it to the Scots. The Scotch famihes 
brought out by Fraser and Nairn are now French in language and customs. A 
depot for American prisoners-of-war was established here in 1776, near the Nairn 
manor-house, and the barracks were built by the captives themselves. 

The great French settlement of St. Agnes., with 1,600 inhabitants, is 9 M. W. of 
Murray Bay, up the valley, and on the verge of the wide wilderness of the Crown 
Lands. A rugged road follows the N. shore from Murray Bay to the Saguenay 
River, a distance of about 40 M., passing the romantic St. Fidele (9 M. out ; 1,000 
inhabitants), the lumbering village of Port an Persil, the hamlets of Black River, 
Port aux Quilles, St. Simeon, and Calliere, back of which are mountains where 
many moose and caribou are found. Still farther E. is Bale des Rochers, on an 
island-studded bay. 

The steamer now stretches out across the river in a diagonal course of 
30 M., the direction being about N. E. The river is about 20 M. wide, 
and the steamer soon comes in sight of the Kamouraska Islands (see page 
252), on the 1., and then passes between Hare Island (I.) and the Pil- 
grims. The vessel soon reaches the long pier at Point a BeauUeu, 3 M. 
from Riviere du Loup. 

Riviere du Loup {*La Rochelle House; and several large summer 
boarding-houses) is a prosperous village of 4,500 inhabitants, occvipying 
a fine position on a hillside near the mouth of the river. There are some 
pretty villas in the vicinity, and the great church in the centre of the 
town is a prominent landmarit for miles. About 3 M. up the river are the 
famous * Riviere-du-Loup Falls, near the new and massive bridge of the 
Intercolonial Railway. The stream here plunges over a cliff about 80 ft. 
high, and then rests quietly in a broad pool below. The views of the 
river and its islands and shipping, from the streets of the village, are 
broad and beautiful; and many summer visitors pass their vacations 
here, finding comfortable .accommodations in the boarding-houses. The 
Temiscouata road runs S. E. from this point into New Brunswick, cross- 
ing numerous trout-streams and leading through a desolate region of 
hills. Its first point of interest is the long Temiscouata Lake (see page 
68). 

Riviere du Loup will soon be one of the chief railway-centres of Canada. It has 
been the E. terminus of the Grand Trunk line for years. The Intercolonial is now 



296 Route 72. CACOUNA. 

well and surely completed from this point to St. John and Halifax, and the New- 
Brunswick Railway is being pushed hitherward up the St. John Valley (see page 
49). 

This domain was granted by the Compagnie des Indes Occidentales to the Sieur 
de la Chesnoye in 1673. It is said that its name is derived from the fact that in 
former years great droves of seals (loiips-marin.s) frequented the shoals at the mouth 
of the river, mailing a remarkable uproar at night. 

A persistent attempt has been made to call this town Fraservillfi, in honor of the 
Erasers, who are its seigniors. The numerous Frasers of this Province met at 
Quebec in 1868 to re-form their ancient Scottish clan organization, and to name 
Provincial, county, and parish chieftains. The head-chief is entitled The Eraser, 
and is the Hon. John Fraser de Berrj', " 58th descendant of Jules de Berry, a rich 
and powerful lord, who gave a sumptuous feast to the Emperor Charlemague and 
his numerous suite, at his castle in Normandy, in the 8th century " The solemn 
Scots maintain that De Berry then regaled Charlemagne with strawberries [/raises, 
in the French language), and that the Emperor was so greatly pleased that he 
ordered that he should thenceforth be known as Fraiser de Berry, and from him the 
Clan Eraser traces its name and descent. 

Cacouna is 6 M. from RIvifere du Loup, and is the chief summer resort 
of Canada. The * St. Lawrence Hall is the most fashionable hotel, and 
accommodates 600 guests, at $2,50-3 a day. The Mansion House charges 
$ 1.50 a day, and accommodates 150 guests. There are several summer 
boarding-houses whose rates are still lower. The traveller who visits 
Cacouna from Kiviere du Loup must be on his guard against the extortions 
of the carriage-drivers, who frequently demand exorbitant fares. 

Twenty years ago Cacouna was nothing; it is now filled with great ho- 
tels and boarding-houses, and adorned with many summer cottages. It is 
visited by thousands of Canadians, and also by many Americans "fuyant 
le ciel corrosif de New- York." Here may be seen the Anglo-Canadian 
girls, who are said to combine the physical beauty and strength of the 
English ladies with the vivacity and brilliancy of the Americans. The 
amusements of the village are like those of similar places farther S., — 
sea-bathing and fishing, driving, and balls which extend into the small 
hours. The beach is good, and the river-views from the heights are of 
famed beauty. There is a pretty lalie back among the hills, where many 
trout are found. 

The great specialties of Cacouna are its pure cool air and brilliant north- 
ern scenery. It is sometimes found too cold, even in August, during 
rainy Aveather, for the American visitors, who then hurry away in crowds. 
The peninsula of Cacouna is a remarkable mass of rock, nearly 400 ft. 
high, Avhich is connected with the mainland by a low isthmus. Its name 
was given by the Indians, in allusion to its forai, and signifies "the tui-- 
tle." The village is French, and has 700 inhabitants, and Anglican, Meth- 
odist, and Roman Catholic churches. 4^ M. distant is the populous parish 
of St. Arsene, and 8 M. S. is St. Modeste. 

From Riviere du Loup the steamer runs across to the Saguenay River, 
passing within 3-4 M. of Cacouna, and running between the Brandy Pots 
(1.) and Red Island (see page 252). 
The Saguenay River, see Route 73. 



THE SAGUENAY EIVER. Route 73. 297 

73. The Sag^uenay River. 

Steamers leave Quebec for Chicoutimi, the farthest port on the Saguenay on 
Tuesday and Friday, at 7 A. M. (see page 291) ; and for Ha Ha Bay on AVednesday 
Thursday, aud Saturday. They reach Tadousac by nightfaU, and start on the re- 
turn from Chicoutimi the next morning. 

Distances. — Quebec to Tadousac, 134 M. ; Tadousac to Riviere St. Marguerite 
15; St. Louis Islets, 19; Riviere aux Canards, 23; Little Saguenay River 21 ■ St' 
John's Bay, 32 ; Eternity Bay, 41 ; Trinity Bay, 48 ; Cape Rouge, 56 ; Cape East' 
63; Cape West, 65; St. Alphonse, 72 ; St. Fulgeuce, 95 ; Chicoutimi, 100. This 
itinerary is based on that of the steamship company and is not correct, but will be 
useful in marking approximations to the relative distances between the points on 
the river. There is no other table of distances accessible. Imray's Sailing Direc- 
tio7is (precise authority) says that it is 65 M. from the St. Lawrence to Chicoutimi. 

The ** Saguenay Eiver is the chief tributary of the Lower St. Lav.-- 
rence, and is the outlet of the great Lake St. John, into which 11 rivers 
fall. For the last 50 M. of its course the stream is from 1 to 2^ M. wide, 
and is bordered on both sides by lofty precipices of syenite and gneiss, 
which impinge directly on the shores, and are dotted with stunted trees. 
Along their slopes are the deep I'nes of glacial striations, telling of the 
passage of formidable icebergs down this chasm. The bed of the river is 
100 fathoms lower than that of the St. Lawrence, a difference which is 
sharply marked at the point of confluence. The shores were stripped of 
their forests by a great fire, in ISIO, but there are large numbers of hemlock 
and birch trees in the neighboring glens. The river is frozen from the St. 
Louis Isles to Chicoutimi during half the year, and snow remains on the 
hills until June. The awful majesty of its unbroken mountain-shores, the 
profound depth of its waters, the absence of life through many leagues of 
distance, have made the Saguenay unique among rivers, and it is yearly 
visited by thousands of tourists as one of the chief curiosities of the" West- 
ern World. 

" The Saguenay is not, properly, a river. It is a tremendous chasm, like that of 
the Jordan Valley and the Dead Sea, cleft for 60 M through the heart of a mountain 

wilderness No magical illusions of atmosphere enwrap the scenery of this 

northern river. Everything is hard, naked, stern, silent. Dark-gray cliffs of graniti" 
gneiss rise from the pitch-black water ; firs of gloom v green are rooted in their crev- 
ices and fringe their summits ; loftier ranges of a dull indigo hue show them?elve.3 
in the background, and over all bends a pale, cold, northern sky. The keen air 
which bnng-i out every object with a crvstalline distinctness, even contracts the di- 
mensions of the scenery, diminishes the height of the cliffs, and apparently belittle? 
the majesty of the river, so that the first feeling is one of disappoiutment. Still it 
exercises a fascination which you cannot resist. You look, and look, fettered by the 
fresh, novel, savage stamp which nature exhibits, and at last, as in St. Peter's or at 
JNiagara learn from the character of the separate features to appreciate the grandeur 
ot the whole Steadily upwards we went, the windings of the river and its vary- 
ing breadth — from i M. to nearly 2 M. — giving us a shifting succession of tt^e 
grandest pictures. Shores that seemed roughly piled together out of the fra^-nients 
ot chaos overhung us, — great masses of rock, gleaming duskily through their'scanty 
drapery of evergreens, here lifting long irregular walls against the sky, there split 
into huge, fantastic forms by deep lateral gorges, up which we saw the dark-blue 
crests of loftier mountains in the rear. The water beneath us was black as nio-ht, 
with a pitchy glaze on its surface ; and the only life in all the savage solitude was 

now and then, the back of a white porpoise, in some of the deeper coves T'le 

nver is a reproduction — truly on a contracted scale — of the fiords of the Norwegian 

13* 



298 Route 73. THE SAGUENAY RIVER. 

coast The dark mountains, the tremendous precipices, the fir forests, even the 

settlements at Ha Ha Bay and L'Anse a I'Eau (except that the houses are white in- 
stead of red) are as completely Norwegian as they can be. The Scandinayian skip- 
pers who come to Canada all notice this resemblance, and many of them, I learn, 
settle here." (Bayard Taylor.) 

" From Ha Ha right down to the St. Lawrence, you see nothing but the cold, 
black, gloomy Saguenay, rolling between two straight lines of rocky hills that rise 
steeply from the water's edge. These hills, though steep, are generally roughly 
rounded in shape, and not abrupt or faced with precipices. This makes the scenery 
differ from that with which it has been often compared, the boldest of the fiords of 
Norway. Over the rugged hills of the Saguenay there is generally enough of earth 
here and there lodged to let the gray rock be dotted over with a dark-green sprink- 
ling of pine-trees. Perhaps there is hardly a spot on the Saguenay, which, taken by 
itself would not impress any lover of wild nature by its grandeur, and even sublimity ; 
but after sailing for 70 miles downwards, passing rocky hill after rocky hill, rising one 
beyond the other in monotonously straight lines alongside of you; .... after vainly 
longing for some break in these twin imprisoning walls, which might allow the eye 
the relief of wandering over an expanse of country, — j'ou will begin to compare the 

Saguenay in no kindly spirit to the Rhine It is a cold, savage, inhuman river, 

fit to take rank with Styx and Acheron ; and, into the bargain, it is dull. For the 
whole 70 miles, you will not be likely to see any living thing on it or near it, outside 
of your own steamer, not a house, nor a field, nor a sign of any sort that living 
things have ever been there." (White ) 

" Sunlight and clear sky are out of place over its black waters. Anything which 
recalls the life and smile of nature is not in unison with the huge naked cliffs, raw, 
cold, and silent as the tombs. An Italian spring could effect no change in the 
deadly, rugged aspect ; nor does winter add one iota to its mournful desolation. It 
is with a sense of relief that the tourist emerges from its sullen gloom, and looks 
back upon it as a kind of vault, — Nature's sarcophagus, where life or sound seems 
never to have entered. Compared to it the Dead Sea is blooming, and the wildest 
ravines look cosey and smiling. It is wild without the least variety, and grand 
apparently in spite of itself ; while so utter is the solitude, so dreary and monoto- 
nous the frown of its great black walls of rock, that the tourist is sure to get impa- 
tient with its sullen dead reverse, till he feels almost an antipathy to its very name. 
The Saguenay seems to want painting, blowing up, or draining, — anything, in 
short, to alter its morose, quiet, eternal awe. Talk of Lethe or the Styx, — they 
must have been purling brooks compared with this.savage river; and a picnic on the 
banks of either would be preferable to one on the banks of the Saguenay." {London 
Times.) 

On Sept. 1, 1535, Tadousac was visited by the wonder-loving Cartier, with three 
vessels. He saw the Indians fishing off shore, and reported that, " in ascending the 
Saguenay, you reach a country where there are men dressed like us, who live in 
cities, and have much gold, rubies, and copper." The river was visited by Roberval 
in 1543, and part of the expedition was lost. Thenceforward the country of the 
Saguenay was explored by the fur-traders and the fearless Jesuits. In 1603 Tadou- 
sac was visited by Champlain, around whose vessel the natives crowded in their canoes 
in order to sell or barter away their peltries. Seven years later a solemn and beau- 
tiful scene occurred at Point la Boule (the immense promontory which is seen 5 
M. up-stream), when Champlain and Lescarbot attended the great council of the 
Montaignais. They were received with dignified courtesy by the Sagamore Anada- 
bijou, and conducted to the meeting of the warriors, where several grave and 
eloquent speeches were made while the pipe of peace was passed around. The 
Montaignais at that time numbered 9 tribes, 2 of which dwelt along the river, and 
the other 7 occupied the vast area towards Hudson's Bay and the land of the Esqui- 
maux. Their last Sagamore, Simeon, died in 1849, and had no successor, and the 
poor remnant of the nation now obtains a precarious living by beggary, or has with- 
drawn into the fastnesses of the North. The present name of the river is a modifi- 
cation of the original Indian word Saggishsekuss , which means "a river whose 
banks are precipitous." 

In 1671 the heroic and self-abnegating Jesuit, Pere de Crepieul, founded the mis- 
sion at Tadousac, where he remained for 26 jears, passing the winters in the 
wretched huts of the savages. Before this tune (in 1661) the Fathers DruiUettes and 



TADOUSAC. Route 7S. 299 

Dablon had ascended the river to Lake St. John and there had baptized many In- 
dians, and founded the mission of St. Franpois Xavier. The Montaiguais are still 
in the Catholic faith, and each family has its prayer-book and breviary, in -which 
they are able to read. In 1671 Father Albanel ascended the Saguenay from Tadou- 
sac, by order of Intendant Bigot, and passed N. to Hudson's Bay by way of the 
great lakes of St. John and Mistassini. The country about the Upper Saguenay was 
then well known to the zealous churchmen, but after the decline of the missions it 
■was forgotten. About 50 years ago the Canadian government had it re-explored by 
efficient officers, and this remote region is now being occupied by French-Canadian 
hamlets. The chief business on the river is the exportation of lumber, which is 
shipped from Chicoutimi in immense quantities. 

* Tadousac is a small village, prettily situated on a seqjicircular terrace 
surrounded with mountains and fronting on a small harbor, deep and 
secure. The St. Lawrence is here about 24 M. Avide, and the mountains 
of the S. shore are visible, while on clear days the view includes the white 
villages of Cacouna and Riviere du Loup. The * Tadousac Hotel ($2.50 a 
day) is a spacious establishment on the bluff over the beach. It was 
founded in 1865 by a joint-stock company, and has been successful. The 
sea-bathing is very good, although the water is cold, and sea-trout are 
caught off the shore. The old buildings of the Hudson's Bay Company 
are tiear the hotel, and on the lawn before them is a battery of antiquated 
■ 4-pounders. E. of the hotel is the old * chapel of the Jesuit mission, 
which was erected in 1746 on the site of a still more ancient church. The 
summer cottages are near the shore, and are cheerful little buildings. The 
Earl of Diifferin, late Governor-General of Canada, erected a handsome 
house here. The scener}' of the landAvard environs is described in the 
Indian word Tadousac^ which means knobs or mamelons. 

" Tadousac is placed, like a nest, in the midst of the granite rocks that surround 
the mouth of the Saguenay. The chapels and the buildings of the post occupy the 
edge of a pretty plateau, on the summit of an escarped height So perched, these 
ediiices dominate the narrow strip of fine sand Nvhich sweeps around at their feet. 
On the r. the view plunges into the profound waters of the sombre Saguenay ; in 
front, it is lost in the immense St. Lawrence. All around are mountains covered 
with fir-trees and birches. Through the opening which the mighty river has cut 
through the rock, the reefs, the islands, and south shores are seen. It is a delicious 
place " (Tache.) 

4 M. E. of Tadousac is the harbor of Moulin d Baude, where are large beds of 
white marble. Charlevoix anchored here in the Chameau (in 1700), and was so en- 
thusiastic over the discovery that he reported that " all this country is full of mar- 
ble." Pointe Rouge, t)ie S. E. promontory before Tadousac, is composed of an in- 
ten.sely hard red granite The shore extends to the N. E. to the famous shooting- 
grounds of Mille Vaches, the trout-stream of the Laval River, and the Hudson's Bay 
post of Betsiamitis (see page 233). 

In the year 1599 a trading-post was established at Tadousac by Pontgrav^ and 
Chauvin,to whom this country had been granted. They built storehouses and huts, 
aild left 16 men to gather in the furs from the Indians, but several of these died 
and the rest fled into the forest. Two subsequent attempts within a few years ended 
as disastrously. In 1628 the place was captured by Admiral Kirke, and in 1632 his 
brother died here. In 1658 the lordship of this district, was given to the Sieur De- 
maux, with the dominion over the country between Eboulements and Cape Cor- 
morant. Three years later the place v>-as captured by the Iroquois, and the gai-rison 
was massacred. In 1690 three French frigates, bearing the royal treasure to Quebec, 
were chased in here by Sir William Phipps"s New-England fleet. They formed bat- 
teries on the Tadousac shores, but the Americans were unable to get their vessels 



300 Route 73. CHICOUTIMI. 

np through the swift currents, and the French fleet was saved. The trading-post 
and mission were kept up with advantage. Charlevoix visited the place in 1720, and 
gays : " The greatest Part of our Geographers have here placed a Town, but where 
there never was but one French house, and some huts of Savages who came there in 
the Time of the Trade and who carried away their Huts or Booths, when they went 
away; and this was the whole matter. It is true that this Port has been a long 
Time the Resort of all the Savage Nations of the North and East, and that the 
French resorted thither as .soon as the Navigation was free both from France and 
Canada ; the Missionaries also made Use of the Opportunity, and came to trade here 
for Heaven. And when the Trade was over, the Merchants returned to their Homes, 
the Savages took the Way to their Villages or Forests, and the Gospel Labourers fol- 
lowed the last, to compleat their Instructions." 

The .steamer leaves Tadousac during the evening, and ascends tlie river 
by night, when, if the sky is unclouded, there are beautiful effects of star- 
light or moonlight on the frowning shores. The return trip down the river 
is made the next day, and the full power of the scenery is then felt. This 
description of the river begins, therefore, at the head of navigation, and 
follows the river downward, detaching the detour into Ha Ha Bay, for the 
sake of continuity. 

Chicoutimi (good hotel) is the capital of Chicontimi County, and has 
1.9.3.5 inhabitants. It is situated at the head of navigation on the Sagiienay, 
and is the great shipping-point of the lumber districts. Over 40 ships 
load here every year, most of them being squarely built Scandinavian 
vessels. The trade amounts to .f 500,000 a year, and is under the control 
of Senator Price of Quebec, who has fine villas at Chicoutimi and Tadousac, 
and is known as 'the King of the Sagnenay." The powerful house of 
Price Brothers & Co. owns most of the Saguenay country, and has estab- 
lishments on the Lower St. Lawrence and in England. Their proporty in 
mills, buildings, and vessels is of immense value. Over the steamboat- 
pier is the new college, built of stone, about an open quadrangle. Near 
by are the cathedral and the convent of the Good Shepherd. Beyond the 
town the court-house is seen, on the dark slope of a high hill; and the 
white ril>bon of the * Chicoutimi Falls is visible to the 1. The Chicoutimi 
River here falls 40 - ,50 ft., iust before entering the Saguenay. This stream 
affords fine sport for the fisherman, and contains great numbers of fish re- 
sembling the land-locked salmon, or grilse. 

Chicoutimi signifies " deep water," and was so called by the Northern Indians who 
here first encountered the profound depths of the Saguenay. There is fine fishing about 
the falls and the juljacent rapids (permission must be obtainoil, and is often granted in 
courtesy to strangers). The ancient .Jesuit chapel and the Hudson's Bay (Company's 
post were situated near the confluence of the two rivers, and within the chapel 
(which remained until recently) was the tomb of Father Cecquart, the last of the 
Jesuit missionaries. A strong mission was founded here in 1727, by Father Labrosse, 
and many Indians were converted. 

St. Anne du Saguenay is a village of 200 inhabitants, on the high bank 
of the river opposite Chicoutimi. Lake St. John is about 60 M. W. of 
Chicoutimi, and is readied by a good road, which passes through Jon- 
qui^re, Kenogami, and Hebertville (1,200 inhabitants). The Rapids of 
Terres Rompues, on the Saguenay River, are 9 M. above Chicoutimi. 



LAKE ST. JOHN. Route 73, 301 

" These rapids extend 3 M. ; then there are 3 M. of smooth water; then a 
second rapid of terrific strength; then 10 M. of still water; then 2 M. of 
rapids; then % ]\I. of still water. Finally, there succeed the mighty rush 
and uproar of the Grand Decharge, mingling with the foam and tumult 
of the Petit Decharge. These empty the waters of the Grand St. John 
Lake, and sweeping around a rugged island with terrific and unnatural 
force, unite, and rage, contend, and finally melt and settle down into the 
quiet mood of the still water below." In this part of the river is found 
tlie winninish, or Northern charr, a game-fish whose pink meat is con- 
sidered a greater delicacy than brook-trout or salmon. 

L,ake St. Jolm was discovered in 1647 by Father Duquen, the missionary 
at Tadousac, who was the first European to ascend the Sagueuay to its source. 
It was then called by the Indians Picouagami, or Flat Lake. Several Jesuit mis- 
sionaries soon passed by this route to the great Nekouba, where all the northern 
tribes were wont to meet in annual fairs ; and in 1672 Father Albanel advanced from 
Tadousac, by Lake St. John and Lake Mistassini, to the ]\ler da Nord, or Hud- 
son's Bay. A Catholic missiou was founded on the lake, at Metabetchuan, and 
posts of the Hudson's Bay Company were also established here. The lake is of 
great area, and receives the waters of 8 large rivers, the chief of which is the Mis- 
tassini, flowing down 250 ]\I. fi'om Lake. Mistassini, which is 75 X 30 M. in area. 
The water is shallow, and is agitated into furious white waves by the N. W. winds. 
To the N. and W . is a vast region of low volcanic mountains and dreary lands 
of low spruce forests. The soil along the lake-shores is said to be a fertile allu- 
vium, capable of nourishing a dense population ; but the winters are long and ter- 
rible. 20 years ago there were no settlements here except the Hudson's Ba}' posts ; 
now there are numerous villages, the chief of which are Roberval, Riviere a I'Ours, 
and St. Jerome. 

Mr. Price, M. P., states that a missionary has recently discovered, high upon the 
Saguenay (or on the Jlistassini), an ancient French fort, with intrenchments and 
stockades. On the inside were two cannon, and several broken tombstones dating 
from the eai'ly part of the 16th century. It is surmised that these remote memorials 
mark the last resting-place of the Sieur Robervnl, Governor-General of Canada, who 
(it is supposed) sailed up the Saguenay in 1543, and was never heard from after- 
wards. The Robervals were favorites of King Francis I., who called one of them 
" the Petty King of Ticmen," and the other, " the Gendarme of Hannibal." They 
were both lost on their last expedition to America. 

In descending the Saguenay from Chicoutimi to Ha Ha Bay, the scenery 
is of remarkable boldness, but is less startling than the lower reaches of 
the river. Soon after leaving the village the steamer passes the pretty 
villa and the Anglican chui'ch pertaining to Senator Price. Below this 
point is a line of hills of marly clay; and Cape St. Fran9ois soon rears its 
dark crest on the 1. bank. The river widens rapidly, and the hamlet of 
St. Fulgence is seen on the 1., near Pointe Roches. Beyond the ponderous 
walls of High Point is another broad reach, with small islets under the 1. 
bank. The steamer now runs between the fi'owning promontories of Cape 
East and Cape West, and passes the entrance to Ha Ha Bay. 

* Ha Ha Bay runs 7 M. S. W. from the Saguenaj^, and is ascended be- 
tween lofty and serrated ridges, bristling with sturdy and stunted trees. 
So broad and stately is this inlet that it is said that the early French 
explorers ascended it in the belief that it was the main river, and the 
name originated from their exclamations on reaching the end, either of 



302 Route73. HA HA BAY. 

amusement at their mistake or of pleasure at the beautiful appearance of 

the meadows. After running for several miles between the terraced cliffs 
of Cape West (on the r.) and the opposite ridges, the steamer enters a 
wide haven whose shores consist of open intervale-land, backed by tall 
blue heights. The entrance is 4 M. long, 1 M. wide, and 100 fathoms 
deep, and the haven can be reached by ships of the line without difficulty. 
It is expected that this bay will be the great port of "the hyperborean 
Latin nation" Avhich is fast settling the Upper Saguenay and Lake St. 
John country. Large quantities of lumber are loaded here upon British 
and Scandinavian ships, and a flourishing trade is carried on in the 
autumn by sending farm-produce and blueberi'ies to Quebec, — the latter 
being packed in coffin-shaped boxes and sold for 30-40 cents a bushel. 

The steamer touches at St. Aljplionse (Bagotville), a small French village, 
with a church and a comfortable hotel. Calashes run from the pier to 
St. Alexis (Grande Bale), 3 M. off, around the bay, crossing the Riviere a 
Mars, famous for its salmon-tisheries (rights may easily be bought or 
leased). 3 M. from the baj', near the falls of Mars River, are the three 
Gravel Lakes, famous for immense and delicious red trout. The mail-road 
is prolonged from St. Alexis, through the uninhabited wilderness of the 
Crown Lands, to St. Urbain and St. Paul's Bay (see page 292). 

" The long line of sullen hills had fallen away, and the morning sun shone ■warm 
pn -what in a friendlier climate would haye been a very loTely landscape. The bay 
was an irregular oval, with shores that rose in bold but not lofty heights on one 
side, while on the other lay a narrow plain with two ■villages clinging about the road 
that followed the crescent beach, and lifting each the slender tin-clad spire of its 
church to sparkle in the sun. At the head of the bay was a mountainous top, and 
along its waters were masses of rocks, gayly painted with lichens and stained with 
metallic tints of orange and scarlet." iHowells.) 

21 M. from Ha Ha Bay is Lac a la Belle Truite, 
and beyond is the Great Ha Ha Lake, among the mountains, with bold capes en- 
circling forests, and a pretty island. 6 M. from Belle Truite is the Little Ha Ha 
Lake, on whose shore is a stupendous cliff nearly 2,000 ft. high The blue peaks of 
the St. Margaret Mts. are about 30 M. from Ha Ha Bay, and sweep from Lake St. 
John to Hudson's Bay. Carriages may be taken from St. Alphonse to Chicoutimi 
(12 M.), and for longer excursions toward Lake St. John. 

After passing the dark chasm of Ha Ha Bay, Cape East is seen on the 1., 
throwing its serrated ledges far out into the stream, and cutting off the 
retrospective view. Bugged palisades of syenite line the shores on both 
sides. " The procession of the pine-clad, rounded heights on either shore 
began shortly after Ha Ha Bay had disappeared behind a ci^rve, and it 
hardly ceased, save at one point, before the boat re-entered the St. Law- 
rence. The shores of the river are almost uninhabited. The hills rise 
from the water's edge; and if ever a narrow vale divides them, it is but 
to open drearier solitudes to the eye." Just before reaching Cape Rouge 
(1. bank) the ravine of Descente des Femmes opens to the N., deriving its 
singular name from a tradition that a party of Indians were starving, in 
the back-country, and sent their squaws for help, who descended to the 
river through this wild gorge and secured assistance. 



ETERNITY BAY. RmtelS. 303 

On the r. bank is * Ze Tableau, a cliff 900 ft. high, whose riverward 
face contains a broad sheet of dark limestone, 600 X 300 ft. in area, so 
smooth and straight as to suggest a vast canvas prepared for a picture. 
Still farther down (r. bank) is 

" * Statue Point, Avhere, at about 1,000 feet above the water, a huge, 
rough Gothic arch gives entrance to a cave, in which, as yet, the foot of 
man has never trodden. Before the entrance to this black aperture, a 
gigantic rock, like the statue of some dead Titan, once stood. A few 
years ago, during the winter, it gave way, and the monstrous statue cam.e 
crashing down through the ice of the Saguenay, and left bare to view the 
entrance to the cavern it had guarded perhaps for ages." 

The steamer soon passes Cape Trinity on the r. bank, and runs in 
close to ** Eternity Bay, which is a narrow cove between the majestic 
cliffs of Cape Trinity and Cape Eternity. The water is 150 fathoms deep, 
and the cliffs descend abruptly into its profoundest parts. * Cape Trinity 
consists of three vast superimposed precipices, each of which is 5-600 
ft. high, on whose faces are seen two remarkable profiles. The echo in 
the bay is wonderful, and is usually tested by discharging a gun or blow- 
ing a v/histle. (In recent maps and descriptions the name of Eternity has 
been given to the N. cape, and Trinity to the other. This is not correct, 
for the N. cape was named La Trinite by the Jesuits on account of its 
union of three vast sections into one mountain. It is known by that name 
among the eld pilots and river-people. The Editor has substituted the 
correct names in the ensuing quotations.) 

''The masterpiece of the Saguenay is the majesty of its two grandest bulwarks, 
— Cape Trmity and Cape Eternity, — enormous masses of rock, 1,500 feet high 
rising sheer out of the black water, and jutting forward into it so as to shelter a lit- 
tie bay of the river between their gloomy portals. In the sublimity of their height 
and steepness, and in the beautiful effect against the rock of the pine-trees which 
here and there gain a dizzy foothold, nestling trustfully into every hollow on the 
face of the tremendous precipice, these capes can hardly be surpassed bv anv river- 
scene in the world." (White.) * 

"Suddenly the boat rounded the comer of the three steps, each 500 ft. high in 
which Cape Trinity climbs from the river, and crept in under the naked side of the 
awful chff. It is sheer rock, springing from the black water, and stretchino' upward 
with a weary, effort-like aspect, in long impulses of stone marked by deep seams 
from space to space, till, 1,-500 ft. in air, its vast brow beetles forward and frowns 

with a scattering fringe of pines The rock fully justifies its attributive height 

to the eye, which follows the upward rush of the mighty acclivity, steep after steep, 
till it wins the cloud-capt summit, when the measureless mass seems to swing and 
sway overhead, and the nerves tremble with the same terror that besets him who 
looks downward from the verge of a lofty precipice. It is wholly grim and stern ; 
no touch of beauty relieves the austere majesty of that presence. At the foot of 
tape Tnmty the water is of unknown depth, and it spreads, a black expanse, in the 
rounding hollow of shores of unimaginable wildness and desolation, and issues 
again in its river's course around the base of Cape Eternity. This is yet loftier 
than the sister cliff, but it slopes gently backward from the stream, and from foot to 
crest It is heavily clothed with a forest of pines. The woods that hitherto have 
shagged the hills with a stunted and meagre growth, showing long stretches scarred 
by fire, now assume a stately size, and assemble themselves compactly upon the side 
of the mountain, setting their serried stems one rank above another, till the summit 
IS crowned with the mass of their dark green plumes, dense and soft and beautiful; 



304 Routers, ETERNITY BAY. 

so that the spirit, perturbed by the spectacle of the other cliff, is calmed and as- 
suaged by the serene grandeur of this." (Howells's A Chance Acqiiaintance.) 

" These awful cliffs, planted in water nearly a thousand feet deep, and soaring into 
the very sky, form the gateway to a rugged valley, stretcliing inland, and covered 
•with the dark primeval forest of the North. I doubt whether a sublimer picture 

of the wilderness is to be found on this continent The wall of dun-colored 

syenitic granite, rihbed with vertical streaks of black, hung for a moment directly 
over our heads, as high as three Trinity spires atop of one another. Westward, the 
■wall ran inland, projecting bastion after bastion of inaccessible rock, over the dark 
forests in the bed of the valley." (Bayard Taylor.) 

" The wild scenery of the river culminates at a little inlet on the right bank be- 
tween Capes Trinity and Eternity. Than these two dreadful headlands nothing can 
be imagined more grand and impressive. For one brief moment the rugged charac- 
ter of the river is partly softened, and, looking back into the deep valley between the 
capes, the land has an aspect of life and mild luxuriance which, though not rich, 
at leav-t seems so in comparison witii the grievous awful barrenness. Cape Eternity 
on this side towards the landward opening is pretty thickly clothed with tir and birch 
mingled together in a color contrast which is beautiful enough, especially where the 
rocks show out among them, with their little cascades and waterfalls like strips of 
silver shining in the sun. But Cape Trinity well becomes its name, and is the reverse 
of all this. It seems to frown in gloomy indignation on its brother for the weakness it 
betrays in allowing anything like life or verdui'eto shield its wild, uncouth deformity 
of strength. Cape Trinity certainly' shows no sign of relaxing in this respect from 
its deep savage grandeur. It is one tremendous clilf of limestone, more than 1,500 
feet high, and inclining forward more than 200 feet, brow-beating all beneath it, and 
seeming as if at any moment it would fall and overwhelm the deep black stream 
which flows so cold and motionless down below. High up, on its rough gray brows, 
a few stunted pines show like bristles their scathed white arms, giving an awful 
weird aspect to the mass, blanched here and there by the tempests of ages, stained 
and discolored by little waterf ills in blotchy and decaying spots. Uulike Niagara, 
and all other of God's great woi-ks in nature, one does not wish for silence or soli- 
tude here. Companionship becomes doubly necessary in an awful solitude like this." 
{Lo7n1o7i Times.') 

AVhen the Flijins: Fish ascended the river with the Prince of Wales and his suite, 
one of her heavy C8-pounders was fired off near Cape Trinity. •' For the space of half 
aminute or so after the dischai-ge there was a dead silence, and then, as if the report 
and concussion were hurled back upon the decks, the echoes came down crash upon 
ci'ash. It seemed as if the rocks and crags had all sprung into life under the tre- 
mendous din, and as if each was firing 68-pounders full upon us, in sharp, crushing 
volleys, till at last they grew hoarser and hoarser in their anger, and retreated, bellow- 
ing slowly, carrying the tale of invaded solitude from hill to hill, till all the distant 
mountains seemed to roar and groan at the intrusion." 

St. John's Bay (i*. bank) is 6 M. below Eternity Bay, and is shallow 
enough to afford an anchoi-age for shipping. It is 2 ]\I. wide and 3 IM. long, 
and receives the St. John River. At its end is a small hamlet, situated in 
a narrow valle^y which appears beautiful in contrast Avith the surrounding 
cliffs. Far inland are seen the blue peaks of distant mountains. In the 
little cove opposite is the white thread of a lofty cascade. 

The Little Saguenay River (r. bank) is 4 ]\I. below, and flows down out 
of a bristling wilderness where are famous Indian hunti'-^g-grounds and 
pools filled with trout. A short distance below are the islets at the mouth 
of the Riviere aux Canards. The steamer then sweeps by the St. Louis 
Isle, a granite rock, ^ M. long, covered Avith firs, spruces, and birch-trees. 
There is 1,200 ft. depth of water around this islet, in which are multitudes 
of salmon-trout. On the r. bank are the massive promontories of Cape 
Victoria and Cape George. The * retrospect from this point affords one 
of the grandest views on the river. 2 M. below (1. bank) is seen the inter- 



QUEBEC TO MONTEEAL. Route 74. 305 

vales of the St. Marguerite River, the chief tributary of the Saguenay, de- 
scending from a lake far N. of Chicoutimi, and famous for its salmon-fisher- 
ies (leased). It is a swift stream, flecked with rapids, but is navigable for 20 
M. by canoes; and flows from a valuable region of hard- wood trees. There 
are huts along the strand at 'its mouth, and vessels are usually seen at an- 
chor here; while far inland are bare and rugged ridges. The tall promon- 
tory beyond this river is seamed with remarkable trap-dikes, of a color 
approaching black; opposite which is the mouth of the St. Athanase. 

Beyond Point Crepe (r. bank) is the deep cove of St. Etienne Bay, afford- 
ing an anchorage, and bordered with narrow strips of alluvial land. The 
steamer now sweeps rapidly down, between immense cliffs, and with but 
narrow reaches of the river visible ahead and astern. Beyond the Passe 
Pierre Isles {r. bank) it approaches a castellated crag on the r., opposite 
which is the frowning promontory called * Points la Boule, a vast granite 
mountain which narrows the channel to very close confines. From Pointe 
la Boule to Tadousac, the river flows between escarped cliffs of feldspathic 
granite, with an appearance resembling stratification dipping to the S. E. 
Their lofty rounded summits are nearly barren, or at most support a thin 
fringe of low trees; and the sheer descent of the sides is prolonged to a 
great depth beneath the water. 

The vessel calls at L'Anse a VEau, the little cove near Tadousac (see 
page 299); and soon afterwards steams out into the broad St. Lawrence, 
in the darkness of evening. The next morning, the traveller awakes at or 
near Quebec. 

74. Quebec to Montreal. — The St. Lawrence River. 

The river-route is by the steamboats of the Richelieu Company, leaving Quebec 
at evening. It is 69 M. from Quebec to Batiscan, 90 M. to Three Rivers, 135 M. 
to Sorel, and 180 M. to Montreal. 

The shortest route by rail between the two cities is the Quebec, Montreal, Ottawa 
and Occidental Railway, along the North Shore. 

Stations. — Quebec to Lake St. John Junction, 4 M. ; Lorette, 8 ; Passe Para- 
dis, 14; Ste. Jeanne de Neuville, 26; St. Bazile, 36 ; Portneuf, 35; Deschambault, 
39 ; Lachevrotiere, 42 ; Grondines, 45 ; St. Anne de la Perade, 53 ; Batiscan, 58 ; 
Champlain, 65; Piles Branch Junction, 75; Three Rivers R., 78 ; Pointe du Lac, 
83; Yamachiche, 93; Louise Ville, 98; Masldnonge, 102; St. Barthelemi, 108; 
St. Outhbert, 111 ; Berthier, 116 ; Lanoraie Junction, 124 ; La Valtrie Road, 129 ; 
L'Assomption, 133; L'Epiphanie, 137; St. Henri de Mascouche, 145; Terrebonne, 
149 ; St. Vincent de Paul, 155 ; Montreal, 170. 

The Grand Trunk Railway runs two trains daily between Quebec and Montreal. 
Stations- — Quebec (Point Levi) ; Hadlow, 2 M. ; Ohaudiere Curve, 8 ; Craig's Road, 
15 ; Black River, 20 ; Methot-s Mills, 28 ; Lyster, 37 ; Becancour, 41 ; Somerset, 49 ; 
Stanfold, 55 ; Arthabaska, 64 ; Warwick, 71 ; Danville, 84 ; Richmond, 96 ; New 
Durham, 106 ; Acton, 118 ; Upton, 124 ; Britannia Mills, 130 ; St. Hyacinthe, 137 ; 
Soixante, 144 ; St. Hilaire, 150 ; St. Bruno, 157 ; St. Hubert, 162 ; St. Lambert, 
167 ; Montreal, 172. 

" It could really be called a village, beginning at Montreal and ending at Quebec, 
which is a distance of more than 180 M. ; for the farm-houses are never more than five 
arpents apart, and sometimes but three asunder, a few places excepted." (Kalm, the 
Swedish traveller , in 1749.) In 1684 La Hontan said that the houses along these shores 
were never more than a gunshot apart. The inhabitants are simple-minded and 



306 Route 7 4. ST. AUGUSTIN. 

primitive in their ways, tenaciously retaining the Catholic faith and the French 
language and customs. Emery de Caen, Champlain's contemporary, told the Hugue- 
not sailors that " Monseigneur, the Duke de Ventadour (Viceroy), did not wish that 
they should sing psalms in the Great River." When the first steamboat ascended 
this river, an old Canadian voyageur exclaimed, in astonishment and doubt, " Mais 
croyez-vous que le bon Dieu permettra tout cela ! " 

As the steamboat swings out into the stream a fine series of views are 
afforded, including Quebec and the Basin, the bold bluffs of Point Levi, 
and the dark walls of the Citadel, almost overhead. As the river is as- 
cended, the villas of Sillery and Cap Rouge are seen on the r., and on the 
1. are the wharves and villages of South Quebec and New Liverpool, be- 
yond which are the mouths of the Etchemin and Chaudiere Rivers. St. 
Augustin is on the N. shore, 15 M. above Quebec, and has a Calvaire, to 
which many pilgrimages are made, and a statue of the Guardian Angel, 
erected on a base of cut stone in front of the church, and commemorating 
the Vatican Council of 1870. 

Near the village is a ruined church dating from 1720, at whose construction the 
Devil is said to have assisted, in the form of a powerful black stallion who hauled in 
the blocks of stone, until his driver unbridled him at a watering-place, when he 
vanished in a cloud of sulphur-smoke. In front of St. Augustine the French frigate 
Atalayite surrendered to the British fleet in 1760, after a heroic but hopeless battle ; 
and in the same waters the steamer Montreal was burned in 1857, and 200 passen- 
gers lost their lives. 

Pointe aux Trembles is 3 ^L above St. Augustin (N. shore, and is a ship- 
building village of 700 inhabitants. Here many of the ladies of Quebec 
took refuge during Wolfe's siege (1759), and were captured by his Gren- 
adiers. Here also the American armies of Arnold and Montgomery united 
their forces (Dec. 1, 1775) before the disastrous assault on Quebec. Pass- 
ing the hamlet of St. Antoine de Till}^ on the S. shore, the village of Les 
Ecureuils is seen on the N., 7 M. above Pointe aux Ti-embles. This is 
near the mouth of the Jacques Cartier River, famous for its remarkable 
scenery and for its fine trout-fishing (on the upper waters). On the heights 
near the mouth of the river was Fort Jacques Cartier, to which 10,000 
French troops retreated after the defeat of Montcalm. Nearly a year later 
(June, 1760) the fort was held by the Marquis d'Albergotti, and was bom- 
barded and taken by Eraser's Highlanders. 

6 M. above Les Ecureuils is St. Croix (S. shore), a village of 750 in- 
habitants, with" a black nunnery and the public buildings of Lotbiniere 
County. 3 M. beyond (N. shore) is Portneuf. a prosperous little town 
with paper-mills and a large country trade. This seigniory was granted 
to M. Le Neuf by the Cent Associ^s in 1647, and was completely deso- 
lated by the famishing French cavalry in 1759. Beyond this point the 
scenery becomes less picturesque, and the bold ridges of the Laurentian 
Mts. sink down into level lowlands. Descliamhault (N. shore) has 500 in- 
habitants, with a trade in lumber and flour. Lotbiniere (S. shore) is a 
town of 2,500 inhabitants, with a Convent of the Bon Pasteur and two 
stove-foundries. Grondines (N. shore) is 8 M. beyond Deschambault, and 



THREE EIVERS. Route74. 307 

has 400 inhabitants; and St. Jean Deschaillons (S. shore) is noted for its 

brickyards. St. Anne de la Perade (N. shore) has a great church, and is 
situated at the mouth of the St. Anne River, Avhich is here crossed by a 
bridge 1,500 ft. long. Beyond St. Pierre les Becquets (S. shore) is the 
busy little port of Batiscan (N. shore), with its two lighthouses; Gentilly 
(S. shore) has 600 inhabitants and the Convent of the Assumption; and 
Chaviplain (N. shore) has 400 inhabitants. 

Three Rivers (British American Hotel) is a city of 9,000 inhabitants, 
midway between Quebec and Montreal, and at the head of tide-water on 
the St. Lawrence River. It was founded in 1618, under the name of Trois 
Rivieres, and played an important part in the early history of Canada. 
The chief buildings are the stately Catholic Cathedral, the Court-House, 
the Ursuline Convent, St. Joseph's College, and the Episcopal and Wes- 
leyan churches. The city has a bank, 2 Masonic lodges, and 4 semi- 
weekly and weekly newsp^apers (2 of which are French). Besides the 
daily boats of the Richelieu Line, there are 5 steamboats plying from this 
port to the adjacent river-villages. It is connected with Quebec and 
Montreal by the Three-Rivers Branch of the Grand Trunk Railway and 
by the North-Shore Railway, and has built a new line up the St. Mau- 
rice Valley to Grand Piles. There are large iron-works and machine- 
shops here, and stoves and car-wheels are made in great numbers from 
bog-iron ore. The chief industry is the shipment of lumber, which comes 
down the St. Maurice River. Tiie Canadian government has expended 
$200,000 in improving the navigation on the St. Maurice, and over 
$1,000,000 has been invested in mills and booms above. 

The St. Maurice Kiver waters a district of immense (and unknown) extent, 
abounding in lakes and forests. Portions of this great northern wilderness have 
been visited by the lumbermen, who conduct rafts to Three Rivers, where the lumber 
is sawed. About 22 M. above the city are the noble Falls of the Skaivanegan,, 
where the great river plunges over a perpendicular descent of 150 ft. between the 
lofty rocks called La Grand'' Mere and Le Bonhomme. A few miles above are the 
Falls of the Grand'' Mire. These falls are visited by engaging canoes and guides at 
Three Rivers, while hunting-parties conducted by Canadian voyageurs or Algonquin 
Indians sometimes pass thence into the remote northern forests in pursuit of the 
larger varieties of game. The head-waters of the St. Maurice are interlocked with 
those of the Saguenay. 

Across the St Maurice is the thriving village of Cap de la Magdelaine ; and on 
the S. shore are Becancour, the capital of Nicolet County, and St. Angel de Laval 
(Doucett's Landing) , the terminus of a branch of the Grand Trunk Railway. 

The steamer soon enters Lake St. Peter, a shallow widening of the river 
22 M. long and 8 M. broad. It has a deep and narrow channel (partly ar- 
tificial), which is marked out by buoys and,poles, and is used by large 
vessels. Immense lumber-rafts are often seen here, drifting downward 
like floating islands, and bearing streamers, sails, and the rude huts of the 
lumbermen. In stormy weather on the lake these rafts sometimes come 
to pieces. The inlets along the low shores afford good duck-shooting; and 
enoi'mous quantities of eels and pike are taken from the waters. Near the 



308 Route 74. SOREL. , 

E. end of the lake, at the mouth of the Nicolet River, is the populous 
town of Nicolet, famous for its flour and lumber trade and for its noble 
college, with its 250 students and a library of 10,000 volumes. The build- 
ings are surrounded by attractive parks and gardens. On the N. shore is 
Riviere du Loup en haut, near which are the celebrated St. Leon Springs 
(reached by daily stage from Three Rivers, in 24 M. ; fare, $1.50; Gil- 
man's Hotel, and others). St. Frangoisdu Lac is a pretty village on the 
S. W. shore, at the mouth of the great St. Francis River. 

On leaving Lake St. Peter, the steamer threads her way through an 
archipelago of low islands, and soon reaches Sorel (four hotels), a city of 
7,500 inhabitants, with 3 weekly papers (2 French), a Catholic college, 
several shipyards and foundries, and a large country trade. It is at the 
mouth of the gi-eat River Richelieu, the outlet of Lake George and Lake 
Champlain, whose head-waters ai-e interlocked with those of the Hudson. 
Navigation is kept up between this point and the Lake-Champlain ports by 
the Chambly Canal. The town is regularly laid out, and its broad streets 
are adorned with trees. In the centre is the Royal Square, whose fine old 
elms are much admired. Sorel is the terminus of the northern division of 
the Southeastern Railway. 

Fort Richelieu was built on this site in 1641 , and was re-constructed and enlarged 
by Capt. Sorel, of the Carignan Regiment, under orders from Gov. de Tracy (1665). 
In November, 1775, it was occupied by Col. Easton, with a strong force of Continen- 
tal troops and a flotilla, and this detachment captured 11 sail of vessels, containing 
Gen. Prescott and the British garrison of Montreal. Sorel was for many years the 
summer residence of the Canadian governors, and on being visited by Prince Wil- 
liam Henry of England (afterward King William IV.) an abortive attempt was made 
to change its name to William Henry, 

Berihier en haut is 6 M. above Sorel, on the N. shore (semi-daily steam- 
ers), and is an important manufacturing town of 1,700 inhabitants, situated 
amid rich farming lands. It was the birthplace of M. Faribault, long time 
a N. W. Commissioner, and founder of Faribault, Minnesota. Back of 
Berthier are the populous towns of St. Cuthbert, St. Norbet, St. Felix de 
Valois, and St. Elizabeth. Lanoraie is 9 M. above Berthier (N. Shore), 
and is the terminus of the St. Lawrence & Industry Railway'-, which 
runs N. W. 12 M. to St. Thomas and Joliette, and thence into Montcalm 
County. 15 M. above Sorel (S. shore) is Contrecceur, noted for its maple- 
sugar; and Lavaltrie is 15 M. above Berthier (N. shore), and has 2 
lighthouses. 6 M. above is St. Sulpice (N. shore), beyond which is L'As- 
somption (Hotel Richard), a prosperous village of 2,600 inhabitants. 
Above the N. shore village of Repentigny the N. branch of the Ottawa 
River (Riviere des Prairies) flows into the St. Lawrence, having diverged 
from the Ottawa at the Lake of the Two Mountains. 

Varennes is a pretty village on the S. shore, opposite Isle St. Therese, 
and connected by a ferry with Bout de I'lsle, and with Montreal (15 M. dis- 
tant) by a daily steamer. It has 825 inhabitants, and manufactures many 



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MONTREAL. Route 75. 309 

carriages. The church is a large and stately building, with two conspicu- 
ous towers. 1 M. from the village are the celebrated Varennes Springs, 
which are saline in character and possessed of valuable medicinal proper- 
ties. One of them emits ^reat quantities of carbonated hydrogen gas, and 
the other yields 2 -3 gallons a minute, and is much visited by invalids. 
Arrangements are being made to establish a first-class summer resort at 
this point. Above Varennes is Boucherville. the birthplace of Chief Justice 
Sir Louis Hippolyte Lafontaine, The low and marshy islands off this shore 
are famous for duck-shooting, and for the ice-dams which form here at 
the close of the winter. Pointe aux Trembles is to the N., on the Island of 
Montreal, and is an ancient village dating from 1674. 

" We -were gliding past Longueuil and Boucherville on the (left), and Pointe aux 
Trembles, ' so called from having been originally covered with aspeus,' on the (right). 
I repeat these names not merely for want of more substantial facts to record, but 
because they sounded singularly poetic in my ears. There certainly was no lie in 
them. They suggested that some simple and perchance heroic human life might 
have transpired there." (THOREiVU.) 

Clustering villages are now seen on either shore, and the river is strewn 
with low islands. At 9 M. above Pointe aux Trembles the steamer reaches 
her pier at Montreal, with the magnificent Victoria Bridge spanning the 
river in front. 

75. Montreal. 

Hotels. — * The Windsor, on Dominion Square, in an elevated and quiet part of 
the city, not far from the Mount-Royai Park, is undoubtedly one of the most mag- 
nificent hotels in America. Its architecture is very imposing, and withiu it has a 
splendid frescoed rotunda, marble staircases, an immense dining-hall, and hun- 
dreds of airy and comfortable chambers, with hot and cold water, and all conven- 
iences. 

St. Lawrence Hall, 139 St. James St., is a comfortable hotel in the centre of the 
city, near the post-office and banks. The Albion, 141 McGill St., is frequented by- 
country merchants aud commercial meu. The American is on St. Joseph St., and 
has many dealers in horses and cattle among its patrons. The chief French hotels 
are the Ilichelieu, a well-kept house on St. Vincent St.; and the Canada, on St. 
Gabriel St. Hotel-omnibuses meet all trains and boats. 

Kestaurants. — Alexander's, 391 Notre Dame St.; Freeman's, 231 St. James 
St. ; Compaiu's, 113 St. Franfois Xavier St. ; The Bodega, 3ij6 Notre Dame St. ; Vic- 
tor's, 145 St. James St. ; Walker's, 372 Notre Dame St. 

Clubs. — Metropolitan, on Beaver Hall ; and St. James, on Dorchester St. 

Amusements. — Theatre Royal, 19 Cottt5 St., open usually during the sum- 
mer. Operatic and theatrical entertainments, in winter, at the Academy of Music, 
Victoria St. iec^Jtres are given at tbe Association Hall, corner of Craig St. and 
Victoria Square. Lectures and other entertainments are also given at the hall of 
the Mechanics' Institute, 204 St. James St. The Victoria Skating Rink, Drummond 
and Dorchester Sts. , is famous for its winter carnivals. Lacrosse, the Canadian 
national game, is played at the grounds on Sherbroo'.ce St. We~t and St. Catherine St. 
West. Football, cricket, golf, bicycling, fox-hunting, racket, lawn tennis, horse- 
rtcing, tobogganing, snow-shoeing, curling, all have their devotees and their head- 
quarters The Thistle Rink is near the Crystal Palace. 

Keatlinsr-Kooms. — Young Men's Christian Association, Victoria Square; 
Merchants' Exchange. 11 St. Saci-ament St. ; Mechanics' Institute, 204 St. James 
St.; Institut Canadien, 111 Notre Dame St.; Union Catholique (20,000 vols.), St. 
Mary's Church. 



310 Route 75. MONTREAL. 

Post-Office, on St. James St., near St. Franpois Xavier St. Telegraph, central 
office of the Montreal Telegraph Company, corner of St. Sacrament and St. Frau9ois 
Xavier Sts. Moiieij. — American and British gold and paper money passes at par, 
but silver is at a discount. 

Carriages. — (One-horse.) For 1 - 2 persons, for 20 minutes, 25 cents; for ^ 
hr., 40 c. ; by the hour, 75 c, and 60 c. for each additional hour. For 3-4 per- 
sons, for 20 minutes, or less, 50 c. ; for .\ hr., 60 c ; by the hour, #1, and 75c. for 
each additional hour. (Two-horse carriages.) For 1-2 persons, for J hr., or less, 
65 c. ; by the hour, :§ 1. For 3 -4 persons, for |hr., or less, 75c. ; by the hour, Iff l.:i5. 
Fractions of hours charged ^^ro rata. The tariff by the hour applies to all rural 
excursions, for which carriagesare engaged in the city. The legal tariff is augmented 
50 per cent between midnigiit and 4 a. m. Trunks and boxes, 10 c. each. 

Horse-cais run across the city on Craig, Bleury, and St. Catherine Sts. ; also 
on St. Mary, Notre Dame, and St. Joseph Sts. ; and out St. Lawreoce Main St. to St. 
Jean Baptiste. 

Kail ways. — To Boston by way of St Albans, Concord, and Lowell, in 334 M. ; 
or by way of Fitchburg, in 344 M. ; or by the new route, the Southeastern Railway. 
To New York, by Rutland and Albany, 335 M. (by Lake Champlain , 405 M. ) ; to Que- 
bec, 172 M. (in 7" hrs) ; to Plattsburg, 63 M. ; to Rouse's Point, 50 M. ; to Toronto, 
333 M. (14-15 hrs.) ; to Detroit (861 M.) and Chicago (1,145 M.) ; to Ottawa, 164 M. 

Stages run out from Montreal in all directions, daily. To St. Ct^saire, Marieville, 
and Ciiambly ; St. Eustache, St. Augustiu, St. Scholastique, St. Columban, and St. 
Canut; New Glasgow, Kilkenny, St. Jerome, Stanbridge,St. Lin, St. Hippolyte, St. 
Agathe des Monts, St. Adele, St. Janvier, St. Th6rese de Blainville, St. Sophie ; 
St. Vincent de Paul, Mascouche, Terrebonne, and St. Sauveur ; Pointe aux Trembles, 
Sault au RecoUet, and St. Martin. 

Steamships. — The first-class ocean steamships of the Allan Line and the Do- 
minion Line leave Montretl 2-3 times weekly during the season of navigation, for 
Liverpool and Grla.<gow. The Beaver, Donaldson, Temperley, Ross, Thomson, and 
Great Western Lines also run weekly and fortnightly steamships between Montre;il 
and Liverpool, Glasgow, London, Bristol, and Newcastle-on-Tyne ; the White Cross 
Line, to Antwerp ; the Canadian and Brazilian, to the West Indies and Brazil ; and 
the Montreal and Acadian, to St. John's, Newfoundland. The Richelieu Line runs 
daily steamers to the lower river-ports and Quebec. The morning and evening trains 
to Laohine connect with the steamboats for Ottawa, by way of the Ottawa liiver. The 
vessels of the Canadian Navigation Company ascend the St. Lawrence and L ike On- 
tario, from Montreal to the upper river-ports, Toronto and Hamilton. The St. 
Hellene and Ottaioa make semi-weekly trips to the Bay of Quints. The Quebec 
S. S. Co. despatches a weekly steamer from Montreal to Perce, Charlottetown, and 
Pictou. The Chamhly runs semi-weekly from Montreal to Vercheres, Contrecoeur, 
Sorel, St. Ours, St. Denis, St. Antoine, St. Charles, St. Marc, St. Hilaire, Beloeil, St' 
Matthias, and Chambly (90 M.). The Three Rivers runs semi-weekly to Vercheres, 
Sorel, Maskinong6, Riviere du Loup en haut, Yamachiche, Port St. Francis, 
Champlain, and Three Rivers. The Berthier runs semi-weekly to Repentigny, St. 
Sulpice, Lavaltrie, Lanoraie, and Berthier. The Terrebonne runs daily to Bou- 
cherville, Varennes, Bout de I'Isle, Lachenaie, L'Assomption, and Terrebonne 
(24 M.). Ferry steamers cross the river at frequent intervals to La Prairie, St. Lam- 
bert, and Longueuil. 

Montreal, the metropolis of the Dominion of Canada, and "the Queen 
of the St. Lawrence," is one of the most beautiful cities on the continent. 
It is situated on an island (at the confluence of the Ottawa and St. Law- 
rence Rivers) containing 197 square miles, and which, from its fertility, 
has been called the Garden of Canada. The St. Lawrence is 1^ M. wide 
opposite the city, and the river-front is lined for over 1 M. with lofty and 
massive walls, quays, and terraces of gray limestone, unequalled else- 
where in the world, except at Liverpool, Paris, and St. Petersburg. The 
commercial buildings of the city are generally of stone, in plain and substan- 



MONTREAL. Route 75. 311 

tial architecture, and the number of fine public buildings is very large. 
Three fourths of the population are Catholics, most of whom are French, and 
the bright suburban villages are almost entirely inhabited by Frenchmen. 
Although Montreal is 986 -M. from the sea, it is the port which receives the 
greater part of the importations to Canada ; and its manufacturing interests 
are extensive and important. The admirable systems of railway and 
steamboat communication which centre here, have made it the commercial 
emporium of the North; and new lines of traffic and internal railways 
are being built from year to year, binding all the St. Lawrence counties to 
this city. Montreal forms the Metropolitical See of the Anglican Church 
in Canada, and is the capital of a Roman-Catholic diocese. The water- 
supply, street-lamps, paving, and lire department are similar to those of 
American cities of the first' rank. 

The population of Montreal was 140,747, at the census of 1881, and 
there are 60,000 more in the adjacent villages on the island. Of the citi- 
zens, 80,000 are French, 30,000 Irish, and 105,000 Roman Catholics. 
The valuation of real estate is about $65,000,000; its imports in 1880, 
$37,103,869 ; and its exports, $ 30,224,904. In the same year 710 vessels 
arrived here from the sea, and the customs revenue was $ 5,232,789. The 
city has 19 banks, 74 churches, and more than 30 newspapers and magazines 
(in English and French). There are numerous charitable and benevolent 
organizations, and societies for the English, Scotch, Irish, French, Ger- 
man, and New-England residents. 

The Victoria Square is a public ground at the intersection of McGill 
and St. James Sts., ornamented with a fountain and a bronze statue of 
Queen Victoria. On its S. side is the elegant Gothic building which per- 
tains to the Young Men's Christian Association, the oldest society of that 
name in America. On the lower side of the Square are the stately Albert 
Buildings, devoted to commerce. 

Passing to the N. E. along St. James St., the visitor sees many fine 
stores, and the attractive buildings of *"Molson's Bank (of Ohio stone and 
Scotch granite), the Merchants' Bank, the stately new * Post-Office, and 
other symmetrical and solidly constructed edifices. This street is the 
Broadway of Montreal. St. Peter St. runs to the S- E. by the stalely 
Caverhill Buildings (of cut limestone in Italian Palazzo architecture) to 
St. Paul St., the seat of an extensive wholesale trade. 

Opposite the beautiful Corinthian colonnade of the Bank of Montreal 
(beyond St. rran9ois Xavier St , the Wall St. of Montreal) the Place 
d'Armes is seen. This square was so named because it was the parade- 
ground of Montgomery's American army in 1775. Here is the lofty front 
of the * Church of Notre Dame, one of the largest churches on the conti- 
nent, with seats for 8,000 persons on the floor and 2,000 in the galleries. It 
is 255^ ft. long and 144^ ft. wide, and has a chancel window of stained glass 



312 Route 75. MONTREAL. 

64 X 32 ft. in size. The interior is brilliantly and theatrically decorated. 
There are t-wo towers on the front, each 220 ft. high, and, like the church, 
in the simplest form of mediii^vnl Gothic architecture. One tower has a 
chime of bells, and in the other hangs " Gros Bourdon," the largest bell 
in America, Aveighing nearly 15 tons. The tower is generally open (fee of 
26 c. to the door-keeper), and affords from its summit a noble * view of 
the city and its environs (especially of the c\Xy and river, the Victoria 
Bridge, and the islands). The suburbs of Laprairie, Longucuil, and St. 
Lambert, the Lachiue Rapids, and the blue mountains of Vermont, are 
seen from this point. Alongside the church is the ancient Seminary of 
St. SitJpice, on the site of the Seminary of 1657, as the church is near the 
site of the Notre Dame of 1671. The present church was built in 1824 - 9, 
and was consecrated by the Bishop oC Telmcsse in partibiis. The semi- 
nary consists of low and massive buildings, surrounded with gardens and 
court-yards of spotless neatness. It has 24 priests connected witli its 
various works. 

" I soon found niv ■wny to the Church of Notro Pauio. I saw that it was of jrvent 

b\tx' ami sigiiitioil soniotliing Oonungfiom the hurrahing; mob ami the rattling 

caiTiasros, >vo pushoii back the listed door of thiv-s church, and found ourselves iu- 
stantlj' in an atmosphere which miglit be saciwi to tlionp;ht anil reliixion, if one had 

any It was a great cave in the midst of a city ; and what were the altars and 

the tinsel but the sparkling; stalaetics, into which yon entered in a moment, and 
wheiv the still atmo-^pheiv and the sombre lisxht disjiosed to serious and protitablo 
thought ? Such a cave at hand, which you can enter any day, is worth a thousand 
of our churches which are opou onl.v Sundays," (Tuoreau.) 

Fronting on the Place d' Amies are the elegant Ontario Bank and the 
hall of the Grand Lodge of the ^lasons of Canada. A short distance to the 
E., on Notro Dame St., an archway on the r. admits one to the extensive 
and secluded Convent of the Black Nuns (tbunded in 1657). Farther on, 
the * Court House is seen on the 1., — a stately stone building in Ionic 
architecture (300 X 125 ft.), back of which is the Champ de Mars, or 
Parade Ground, an open space covering "28.800 square yards, and ample 
enough for the display of ;),000 troops. The groat structure fronting across 
Craig St. was built for the Dominion Military School, wliich is now estab- 
lished at Kingston. The costly and splendid new City Hall is on the E. 
sidf> of the Champ de ^[ars. Just beyond the Court House the Jacques 
Cartior Square opens oft' Notre Dame St., and is encumbered with a dilapi- 
dated nuuiumont to Nelson (erected in 18(18), and two Russian guns from 
Sebastoj^ol. Near the head of this square, in the ancient French Govern- 
ment building, is the nunlical school of Laval Univei-sity. The building 
dates from 1704, and was the headqtuu-ters of the American 'generals in 
1775 -76, and of the British governors until Montreal was iloca|ntali.'.od. 

By the next side-street (St. Claude) to the r., the *Bonsecours Mar- 
ket may be visited. This market is unrivalled in Anuuica, and is built 
of stone, in quasi-Doric architecture, at a cost of 3 300,01)0. It is three 
Stories high, has a lofty dome, and presents an imposing front to the river. 



MONTREAL. Route 75. 313 

The curious French costumes and language of the country people who 
congregate here on market-days, as well as some peculiarities of the wares 
offered for sale, render a visit very interesting. Alongside of the market 
is the Bonsecours Church (accommodating 2,000 persons), which was built 
in 165S. A short distance beyond is the Quebec railway station, on the 
site of the extensive Quebec-Gate Barracks ; and the Victoria Pier makes 
out into the stream towards St. Heltn's Isle, formerly a fortified depot of 
ammunition and war mata-iel, which was named by Champlain in honor of 
his wife. The Isle is now a lovely marine park, Avith forts and barracks 
still standing, and is reached by a ferry-steamer from Bonsecours Market. 
To the N., on Craig St., is the attractive Yiger Garden, with a small con- 
servatory and several fountains, fronting on which is Trinity Church 
(Episcopal), built of Montreal stone, in early English Gothic architecture, 
and accommodating 4.000 persons. N. of Trinity, and also on St. Denis St., 
is St James Church (Catholic), in the pointed Gothic style, with rich stained 
glass. Some distance E. of Dalhousie Square, on St. i\Iary St., are Mol- 
son's College (abandoned) and St. Thomas Church (Episcopal), with the 
great buildings of Molson's bi-ewery and the Papineau Market and Square 
(on which ai-e the works of the Canadian Rubber Co.). The suburb of 
Hochelaga (see page 318) is about 1 JM. beyond the Papineau Square. 

McGill St. is an important thoronghfiire leading S. from Victoria 
Square to the river. Considerable wholesale trade is done here and in 
the intersecting St. Paul St. The Dominion and Albert Buildings are 
rich and massive, and just beyond is St. Ann's ]\Iarket, on the site of 
the old Parliament House. In lS-i9 the Earl of Elgin signed the obnoxious 
Rebellion Bill, upon which he was attacked by a mob, Avho also drove the 
Assembly from the Parliament House, and burnt the building. On ac- 
count of these riots, Montreal was decapitalized the same year. Com- 
missioners' St. leads E. by St. Ann's Market and the elegant Custom- 
House to the broad promenades on the rivei'-walls. Ottawa St. leads W. 
to the heav}'- masonry of the Lachine-Canal Basins and the vicinity of the 
Victoria Bridge. 

Radegonde St. and Beaver-Hall Hill run N.from Victoria Square, passing 
Zion Church, where the Gavazzi riots took place in 1S53. The ai-med 
congregation repulsed the Catholic assailants twice, and then the ti-oops 
restored order, 40 men having been killed or badly wounded. Just above is 
the Baptist Church, overlooked by the taU Church of the Messiah (Unitari- 
an), with St. Andrew's Presbyterian Church on the r. A few steps to the 
r., Lagaucheti^re St. leads to St. Patrick's Church, a stately Gothic build- 
ing 240 X 90 ft., accommodating 5,000 persons, and adorned with a spire 
225 ft. high. The nave is very lofty, and the narrow lancet-windows are 
filled with stained glass. Near by, on Bleury St., are the massive stone 
buildings of St. Mary's College (Jesuit; 9 pi-ofessors) and the * Church 
of the Gestl. The nave of the church (75 ft. high) is bounded by rich 
U 



314 Rcmte75. MONTREAL. 

composite columns ; and the transepts are 144 ft. long, and are adorned 
with fine frescos in chiaroscuro. 

Over the High Altar is the Crucifixion, and the Adoration of the Spotless Lamb, 
above which is tiie Nativity. Against the columns at the crossing of the nave and 
transepts are statues of St. Mark with a lion, St. Matthew with an ox, St. Luke with 
a child, and St. John with an eagle. On the ceiling of the nave are frescos of St. 
Thomas Kepeutant, the Bleeding Lamb, and the Virgin and Child amid Angelic 
Choirs. Medallions along the nave contain portraits of eight saints of the Order of 
Jesus. Over the Altar of the Virgin, in the 1. transept, is a fresco of the Trinity, 
near which is a painting of St. Aloysius Gonzaga receiving his first communion from 
St. Charles Borromeo, Cardinal Archbishop of Milan. To the r. is a fresco of St. 
Ignatius Loyola in the Grotto of Manresa, and on the 1. is Christ's Appearance to 
him near Rome, while above is Christ blessing Little Children. Over St. Joseph's 
Altar, in the r. transept, is a painting of the Eternal Father ; on the r. of which is 
another picture, St. Stanislaus Kostka receiving Communion from Angels. On the 
1. is a fresco of the Martyrdom of the Jesuits at Nagasaki (Japan) ; on the r. is the 
Martyrdom of St. Andrew Bobola, in Poland; and above is the Raising of Lazarus. 
On the ceiling is the Holy Family at Work. 

Turning now to the W. on St. Catherine St., one soon reaches * Christ 
Churcli Cathedral, the best representative of English Gothic architecture 
in America. It is built of Montreal and Caen stone, and is 212 ft. long, 
and 100 ft. wide at the transepts. A stately stone spire springs from the 
intersection of the nave and transepts, and attains a height of 224 ft. The 
choir is 46 ft. long, is paved with encaustic tiles, and contains a fine 
•stained-glass window. On either side are elaborately carved stalls for 
the clergy; and the pointed roof of the nave (67 ft. high) is sustained by 
columns of Caen stone Avhose capitals are carved to represent Canadian 
plants. In front of the cathedral is a monument to Bishop Fulford, and 
on the N. is a quaint octagonal chapter-house, where the diocesan library 
is kept. The residence of the Lord Bishop (and Metropolitan of Canada) 
is near this building. One square E. of the cathedral (corner of Cathcart 
and University Sts.) is the large and interesting Natural-History Jfuseum^ 
which is open to the public (fee, 25 c). The Ferrier Collection of Egyptian 
Antiquities and the cases of Canadian birds are of much interest. Farther 
out, back of the Hotel Dieu, is the Crystal Palace. 

McGill University (500 students) is at the foot of Mount Roj^al, in beau- 
tiful grounds. It was endowed in 1813 and opened in 1821, and has fac- 
ulties of Arts (9 professors), Medicine (10 professors), and Law (8 profes- 
sors). The Medical School is N. of the main building, and the Museum 
is worthy of a visit. The University is under the charge of Dr. J. W. 
Dawson (see page 138), and is the most flourishing institution of the kmd 
in Canada. Affiliated with it are the contiguous Presbyterian and Wes- 
leyan theological colleges, and the Congregational and Anglican Diocesan 
colleges. The reservoir for the water-supply of Montreal is back of the 
University, 200 ft. above the river, and has a capacity of 36,500,000 gallons. 
The water is taken from the St. Lawrence, 1^ M. above the Lachine 
Rapids. A pleasant view of the city may be obtained from this terrace, 
and on the W. is Ravenscrag, the mansion of the late Sir Hugh Allan. 



MONTREAL. Route 75. 315 

The * Great Seminary of St. Sulpice and the Montreal College are | 
M. S. W. of the University, and front on the same street (Sherbrooke). 
They occupy a portion of the broad ecclesiastical domain which is known 
as the Priests' Farm. The incongruous towers in front of the main build- 
ing pertained to the ancient college of the 17th century, and were at that 
time loopholed and held as a part of the defences of the town against the 
Iroquois Indians. The Seminary is for the education of Koman Catholic 
priests, and has 4 professors and 112 students. The Montreal College is 
for the education of Canadian youth, and has 10 ecclesiastics for profes- 
sors and 280 students. It was founded in 1773 by the Sulpicians, who still 
remain in charge. The Seminary chapel is worthy of a visit, and the gar- 
dens about the buildings ai-e said to be the finest in Canada. Sherbrooke 
St. and the environs of Mount Royal contain many elegant residences. 

Dorchester St. runs S. W. from Beaver-Hall Square, soon crossing Uni- 
versity St., on whose r. corners are the High School and the St. James 
Club. This street leads, on the 1., to the Normal and Model Schools; and 
on the r. to the Natural-History ]\Iuseum and the Cathedral. Dorchester 
St. passes on by St. Paul's Church (1. side) and the Knox Church (r. side) 
to Dominion Square, which occupies the site of a cemetery. In this 
vicinity are several fine churches, — the Wesleyan Methodist, a graceful 
building in the English Gothic style; the American Presbyterian, an ex- 
act copy of the Pai-k Church in Brookh'-n, N. Y. ; and St. George's Church 
(Episcopal), an elegant edifice in decorated Gothic architecture, with deep 
transepts, costly stained windows, a timber roof, and fine school-buildings 
attached. 

The new Roman Catholic Cathedral of St. Peter is being erected at the cor- 
ner of Dorchester and Cemetery Sts. It is 300 ft. long and 225 ft. wide at the tran- 
septs ; and is to be surmounted by a stone dome 250 ft. high, supported on 4 piers 
(each of which are 33 ft. thick) and 32 Corinthian columns. 4 minor domes are to 
surround this noble piece of architecture. The portico is to resemble that of the 
Roman St. Peter's, surmounted also by colossal statues of the Apostles ; and gives 
entrance to the vestibule, which is 200 ft long and 30 ft. wide. The interior colon- 
nades support lines of round arches ; and there are 20 minor chapels. The exterior 
walls are very massive, but extremely plain and rough. This building is to supply 
the place of the Cathedral on St. Denis St., which was burned in 1852. The design 
was conceived by Bishop Bourget, who secured the land, and after inspecting numer- 
ous plans in different styles, determined to erect a cathedral like St. Peter's (though 
smaller). The architects went to Rome and studied the Vatican Basilica carefully, 
and the work was soon begun. At present strenuous exertions are being made by 
the clergy, monks, and nuns to procure the needful funds to finish the building. 

The Bishop's Palace is on the E. of Dominion Square; and Cemetery St. 
runs thence to St. Joseph's Church and the Bonaventure station of the 
Grand Trunk Railway. Bej^ond this point is the populous St. Ann's 
Ward., toward the great basins of the Lachine Canal. 

The * Gray Nunnery is nearly | M. S. W. of Dominion Square, near 
Dorchester St., and occupies aa immense pile of stone buildings. This 
convent (L'Hdpital General des Soeurs Grises) was founded in 1747, and 



316 Route 75. MONTREAL. 

contains 202 nuns, 116 on mission, 42 novices and postulants, and over 600 
patients. It takes care of aged and infirm men and women, orphans and 
foundlings, and has large revenues from landed estates. Over 600 found- 
lings are received every year, of whom more than seven eigliths die, and 
the remainder are kept in the convent until they reach the age of 12 years. 
Opposite the nunnery is Mont Ste. Marie, a large building which was 
erected for a Baptist college, but has become a ladies' boarding-school 
(169 students) under the Congregational Nuns of the Black Nunnery, who 
have, in the city, 57 schools and 12,000 pupils. This order was founded 
by Marguerite Bourgoys in 1659. 

The Nazareth Asylum for the Blind is N. of the Gesu, on St. Cath- 
erine St., and has also an infant school with over 400 pupils. The chapel 
is built in a light and delicate form of Eomanesque architecture, and is 
richly decorated and frescoed. On the same square are the handsome 
stone buildings of the Catholic Commercial Academy. To the E. (on 
Dorchester St.) is the General Hospital, with 150 beds; the Hospice of St. 
Vincent de Paul (30 brethren) and the Asile de la Providence (122 nuns) 
are near Labelle St. ; and numerous other convents and asylums are found 
throughout this singular city, which is both British and Fi'ench, commer- 
cial and monastic, progressive and mediaeval, — combining American en- 
terprise with English solidity and French ecclesiasticism. 

The * Hotel Dieu de Ville Marie is about 1 M. N. W. of Great St. James 
St., and is one of the largest buildings in Canada. The cliapel is a spa- 
cious hall over which is a dome 150 ft. high, frescoed with scenes from the 
life of the Holy Family. This institution was founded in 1859, and is con- 
ducted by about 80 cloistered nuns of the Order of St. Joseph. There are 
generally about 500 persons in the building, consisting of the nuns and 
their charges, old and infirm men and women, orphans, and about 200 sick 
people. To the N. is the populous French suburb of St. Jean Baptiste 
(5,000 inhabitants), which is connected with the city by horse-cars on St. 
Lawrence Main St. 

* Mount Royal Park, along wooded ridge 750 ft. high, covers 430 
acres, and was bought by the city in 1874, and laid out by F. L. Olmstead. 
Stages run through it everj' half-hour, starting from the Montreal Post- 
Office, and passing the Windsor (ticket up and back, 25 c.; restaurant on 
summit). A superb view is afforded, including the city and scores of vil- 
lages, the distant Adirondacks and Green Mts., Rougemont and Beloeil, 
and the St. Lawrence and Ottawa and their lakes. 

Point St. Charles is beyond the Lachine-Canal Basins, and is traversed 
by the tracks of the Grand Trunk Railway. Near the Victoria Bridge is 
a great bowlder, surrounded by a railing, commemorating the place where 
were buried 6,500 Irish immigrants, who died here of ship-fever in the 
summer of 1847. The * Victoria Bridge is the longest and most costly 
bridge in Canada, It consists of 23 spans of 242 ft. each (the central one 



MONTREAL. Route 75. 317 

330 ft.), resting on 24 piers of blue limestone masonry, cemented and iron- 
riveted, with sharp wedge -faces to the down-current. The tubes contain- 
ing the track are 19 X 16 ft. and the bridge is approached by abutments 
2,600 ft. long and 90 ft. wide, which, with the 6,594 ft. of iron tubing, 
makes a total length of 9,194 ft. from grade to grade and over 1^ M. from 
shore to shore. The bridge was commenced in 1854, and finished in 1859; 
it contains 250,000 tons of stone and 8,000 tons of iron, and cost f 6,300,000. 
There is a beautiful view of the city from the central tube. 

In the early autumn of 1535 Jaques Cartier heard, from the Indians of Quebec, 
of a greater town far up the river. The fearless Breton chief took 2 boats and 50 
men, and ascended the St. Lawrence to the Iroquois town of Hochelaga, occupying 
the present site of the metropolis of Canada. "Before them , wrapped in forests 
painted by the early frosts, rose the ridgy back of the Mountain of Montreal, and 
below, encompassed with its cornfields, lay the Indian town,"' surrounded with triple 
palisades arranged for defence. The French were admitted within the walls and 
rested on the great public square, where the women surrounded them in curiosity, 
and the sick and maimed were brought to them to be healed, " as if a god had come 
down among them." The warriors sat in grave silence while he read aloud the 
Passion of our Saviour (though they understood not a word) ; then presents were 
given to all the people, and the French trumpeters sounded a warlike melody. The 
Indians then guided their guests to the summit of the adjacent mountain, whence 
scores of leagues of unbroken forest were overlooked. Cartier gave to this fair emi- 
nence the name of Mojit Royal, whence is derived the present name of the city. 

In 1603 this point was visited by the noble Cham plain, but Hochelaga had disap- 
peared, and only a few wandering Algonquins could be seen in the countr^^. The 
Iroquois of the great town had been driven to the S. by the powerful Algonquina 
(such is the Mohawk tradition). 

At a later day a tax-gatherer of Anjou and a priest of Paris heard celestial voices, 
bidding them to found a hospital (Hotel Dieu) and a college of priests at Mont 
Royal, and the voices were followed by apparitions of the Virgin and the Saviour. 
Filled wich sacred zeal, and brought together by a singular accident, these men won 
several nobles of France to aid their cause, then bought the Isle of Mont Royal, 
and formed the Society of Notre Dame de Montreal. With the Lordof Blaisonneuve 
and 45 associates, in a solemn service held in the Cathedral of Notre Dame de Paris, 
they consecrated the island to the Holy Family under the name of '' Ville Marie de 
Montreal " (Feb., 1641). May 18, 1642, Maisonneuve and his people landed at Mon- 
treal and raised an altar, before which, when high mass was concluded, the priest 
said, " You are a grain of mustard-seed that shall arise and grow until its branches 
overshadow the land. You are few, but 5'our work is the work of God. His smile 
is on you, and your children shall fill the land." The Hotel Dieu was founded 
in 1617, and in 1657 the Sulpicians of Paris established a seminary here. In 1689, 
1,400 Iroquois Indians stormed the western suburbs, and killed 200 of the in- 
habitants, and a short time afterwards Col. Schuyler destroyed Montreal with troops 
from New York, leaving only the citadel, which his utmost efforts could not reduce. 
In 1760 Lord Amherst and 17,000 men captured the city, which then had 4,000 in- 
habitants, and was surrounded by a wall with 11 redoubts and a citadel. In 1775 
Ethan Allen attacked Montreal with a handful of Vermonters, and was defeated and 
captured, with 100 of his men. Gen. PreScott sent them to England as " banditti," 
and Allen was imprisoned in Pendennis Castle. In the fall of 1775 the city was 
taken by the American army under Gen. Montgomery. With the close of the War 
of 1812, a brisk commerce set in, and the city grew rapidly, having, in 1821, 18,767 
inhabitants. The completion of the Grand Trunk Railway greatly benefited this 
place, and its increase has for many years been steady, substantial, and rapid. In 
1832 the cholera destroyed 1.843 persons, out of a population of 30,()00 ; and in 1852 
a large part of the city was burned. 80 years ago vessels of over 300 tons could not 
reach Montreal, but a ship-channel has been cleared by the exertions of the mer- 
chants (headed by Sir Hugh Allan), and now the city is visited regularly by ocean 
steamships of 4,000 tons, and by the largest vessels of the merchant-marine. 



318 R(nUe76. "AROUND THE MOUNTAIN." 

76. The Environs of Montreal. 

Montreal is situated on the S. E. side of the island of Montreal, which 
is 28 M. long, 10 M. wide, and 70 M. around. It is divided into 10 par- 
ishes, and is composed of fertile and arable soil, supporting a dense pop- 
ulation. The favorite drive is that * "Around the Mountain," a distance 
of 9 M. The road passes out by the Hotel Dieu and through the suburb 
of St. Jean Baptiste (whence a road runs E. to the limestone-quarries at 
Cote St. Michel). At Mile-End the carriage turns to the 1. and soon passes 
the avenue which leads (to the 1.) to the Mount Royal Cemetery. The 
road ascends to higher grades, and beautiful views open on the N. and W., 
including 13 villages, the distant shores of the Isle of Jesus, and the bright 
waters of Lake St. Louis and the Lake of the Two Mountains. On a clear 
day the sph-es of the Catholic College of St. Therese are seen, several 
leagues to the N., beyond the Riviere aux Chiens. The village of Cote 
des Neiges (three inns) has an antique church, and is occupied by 1,200 
inhabitants. It was first settled by families from Cotd des Neiges in 
France, which derived its name from a legend that a miraculous cruci- 
form fall of snow took place there in August, marking the place on which 
a pious citizen afterwards built the Church of Notre Dame des Neiges. 
From this village the inter-mountain road leads E. to Montreal. On the 
lower slope of Mount Royal a platform has been built on the wall of the 
Seminar}'- grounds, from which a beautiful *view is obtained. (The usual 
charges for the ride around the mountain are $1.50 for 2-3 persons, in a 
cab, or $ 2 for 4 persons ; for a two-horse carriage, $ 4, for 1 - 4 persons.) 

A road turns to the r. from Cote des Neiges and passes around the bold 
highlands S. of Mount Royal, through fair i-ural scenery. Beyond the 
hamlet of Cote St. Luc it reaches Cote St. Antoine, the seat of the fine 
building and grounds formerly known as Monklands, when the home of 
Governor-General Lord Elgin. It is now called Villa Maria, and is occu- 
pied by the black nuns as a boarding-school. There are 25 sisters and 
172 pupils, most of whom are from the United States. Opposite Villa 
Maria is the Church of St. Luc. The short Yoad from this point to the 
city is made interesting by beautiful views and fair villas, and for 4 M. 
after passing the toll-gate it skirts the Seminary grounds. 

The Sault au Recollet is 7 M. W. of Montreal, on the Riviere des 
Prairies, and is frequentlj'- visited for the sake of its picturesque rapids. 
Picnic parties occupy the forest-covered Priests' Island, whence the de- 
scent of rafts may be observed. The Convent of the Sacred Heart is 
beautifully situated amid pleasant grounds near the river. Opposite Sault 
au Recollet is the Isle Jesus, which is nearly 25 M. long, and contains 
the villages of St. Martin, St. Rose de Lima, and St. Vincent de Paul (near 
which is the Provincial Reformatory Prison). 

Hochelaga is at the N. E. end of the Montreal horse-car line, and is 



LACHINE RAPIDS. Rcmte76. 319 

the point where the Northern-Colonization and North-Shore Railways are 
to terminate. It has a good harbor on the St. Lawrence, below the Rapid 
of St. Mary. There are several fine villas here, and the * Convent of the 
Sacred Name of Jesus and Mary is the most extensive monastic institu- 
tion in Canada. Hochelnga is 3 M. from the Victoria Bridge ; and 3-4 
M. farther E. is Longue Point, near which the late Sir George E. Cartier 
resided. The river-road gives views of Longueuil, Boucherville, and 
Varennes, on the S. shore. 

Lachine (three hotels) is 9 M. S. W. of Montreal, and is a favorite 
summer-resort of the citizens. The river-road is very picturesque ; and 
the upper road runs through the manufactui-ing town called Tannery 
West, which has over 4,000 inhabitants. Visitors usually go out on one 
road and retui-n by the other. Lachine is at the foot of Lake St. Louis, 
and is noted for its annual regattas. It was so named by Champlain in 
1613, because he believed that beyond the rapids the river led to China 
{La Chine). In 1689 the Ifoquois Indians destroyed the French town here, 
with all its Inhabitants, 200 of whom were burnt at the stake. Opposite 
Lachine is the populous village of Caughnawaga, inhabited by about 500 
of the orderly and indolent descendants of the Iroquois Indians, who are 
governed by a council of seven chiefs. 

The * Lachine Rapids may be visited by taking the 7 a. m. train (at 
the Bonaventure station) to Lachine, where a steamer is in waiting, by 
which the tourist returns through the rapids to Montreal. After taking a 
pilot from Caughnawaga, the steamer passes out. 

" Suddenly a scene of wild grandeur bursts upon the eye. Waves are lashed into 
spray and into breakers of a thousand forms by the submerged rocks which they 
are dashed against in the headlong impetuosity of the river. Whirlpools a storm- 
lashed sea, the chasm below Niagara, all mingle their sublimity in a single rapid. 
Now passing with lightning speed within a few yards of rocks, which, did your ves- 
sel but touch them, would reduce her to an utter wreck before the crash could 
sound upon the ear ; did she even diverge in the least from her course, — if her 
head were not kept straight with the course of the rapid, — she would be instantly 
submerged and rolled over and over. Before us is an absolute precipice of waters ; 
on every side of it breakers, like dense avalanches, are thrown high into the air. 
Ere we can take a glance at the scene, the boat descends the wall of waves and foam 
like a bird, and in a second afterwards you are floating on the calm, unruflQed bosom 
of ' below the rapids.' " 

The steamer then passes under the central arch of the Victoria Bridee (see page 
316), and opens an imposing panoramic *view of the citv. (Tickets for""the round- 
trip cost 50 c. ; and the tourist gets back to Montreal about 9.30 a. m ) 

The Belceil Mountain may be visited in a day by taking the Grand 
Trunk Raihvay to St. Hilaire, whence the mountain is easily ascended, 
passing a pretty little lake. On this peak (1,400 ft. above the St. Law- 
rence) the Bishop of Nancj^ erected an oratory surmounted by a huge tin- 
covered cross which was visible for over 30 M. The cross was blown down, 
several years ago. The * view from Belceil includes a radius of 60 M. over 
the fertile and thickly settled plains of the St. Lawrence Vallej', with the 
blue mountains of Vermont far away in the S. E. The Boucherville Moun- 
tain is reached from St. Bruno, a station on the Grand Trunk Railway, 



320 Route 76. OTTAWA. 

and commands fine views. There are 10 lakes on this ridge, one of which, 
the Manor Lake, is on a level with the top of the towers of Notre Dame, 
in Montreal. 

St. Anno {du Bout de VIsle) is 21 M. S. W. of Montreal, and may be 
reached in an hour by the Grand Trunk Railway. It is a village of 1,000 
inhabitants, with two inns, and has an ancient church which is much 
revered by the Canadian boatmen and voyageurs. Many of the people of 
Montreal visit this place during the summer. The village is at some dis- 
tance from the railway, between Lake St. Louis (of the St. Lawrence) and 
the Lake of the Two Mountains (of the Ottawa Eiver). The Ottawa is 
here crossed by a fine railwa3^-bridge, resting on 16 stone piers ; and the 
famous Rapids of St. Anne are flanked by a canal. Here Tom Moore 
wrote his Canadian Boat-Song, beginning: — 

*' Faintly as tolls the evening chime, 
Our voices keep tune, and our oars keep time. 
Soon as the woods on shore look dim 
^ "We'll sing at St. Anne's our parting hymn. 

Row, brothers, row ; the stream runs fast, 
The Rapids are near, and the dayUght 's past. 

" Uttawa's tide ! this trembling moon 

Shall see us float o'er thy surges soon. 

Saint of this green isle ! hear our prayers ; 

0, grant us cool heavens and favoring airs ! 
Blow, breezes, blow ; the stream runs fast, 
The Rapids are near, and the daylight 's past." 

Steamers run daily up the Ottawa River to Ottawa {Russell Hotel), the capital 
of Canada. The Canadian ** Parliament House is situated on a lofty bluff 
over the Ottawa River, and is the finest specimen of Italian Gothic architecture in 
America or the world. The great * Victoria Tower in the centre of the fagade is im- 
posing in its proportions ; and the polygonal structure of the Dominion Library is in 
the rear of the buildings. The halls of the Senate and Chamber of Commons are 
worthy of a visit, and are adorned with stained-glass windows and marble columns. 
In the Senate is a statue of Queen Yictoria, and near the vice-regal throne are busts 
of the Prince and Princess of Wales. The departmental buildings which flank the 
Parliament House are stately structures, in harmouious architecture, and of the 
game kinds of stone. The Cathedral cf Notre Dame and the nunneries of the lower 
town are interesting ; also the new churches of the middle town (which, like^the 
rest of the city, is still undergoing a formative process). The **Cliaudiere 
Tails are just above the city, where the broad Ottawa River plunges down over 
long and ragged ledges. In this vicinity are immense lumber-yards, with the con- 
nected industries which support the French Canadians, who form the majority of 
the citizens here. S. of the city are the pretty Rideau Falls. Steamers depart fre- 
quently for Montreal, and for the remote forests of the N. 



The river and city of Ottawa are fully described in the companion to 
this hand-book, Osgood's Middle States ("with the Northern Frontier 
from Niagara Falls to Montreal ; also, Baltimore, Washington, and North- 
ern Virginia"). It also includes descriptions of the Upper St. Lawrence 
and Lake Ontario, Lake Champlain and Lake George, and the routes from 
New York to Montreal. 

Osgood's Ntw England contains also descriptions of Northern Vermont 
and New Hampshire, and the routes between Boston and Montreal or 
Quebec. 



> 



J 



01 
O' 

K 

P' 
tL 

Ie 

of 
B 
es 
to 
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F 
Ic 
n< 
tl 
c 



INDEX. 



Abattis, P. Q. 292. 
Advocate Harbor 103, 80. 
Agulquac River 54. 
Aiuslie Glen 167, 169. 
Albert Bridge, C. B. 154. 
Albert Mines, N. B. 72. 
AlbertoD, P. E. I. 179. 
Albion Mines, N. S. 136. 
Aldouin River, 60. 
Alemek Bay, N. B. 63. 
Alexander Point 63. 
Alexis River 225. 
Allagash River, Me. 58. 
Allandale, N. B. 52. 
Alright Id. 184. 
Alston Point, N. B. 65. 
Amherst, N. S. 78, 74. 
Amherst Id. 183. 
Ancienne Lorette 281, 279. 
Andover, N. B. 54. 
Ange Gardien, P. Q. 283. 
Annandale, P. E. I. 182. 
Annapolis Basin, N. S. 84. 
Annapolis Royal 85. 
Annapolis Valley 88. 
Anticosti 234. 
Antigonish, N. S. 138. 
Apohaqui, N. B. 71, 48. 
Apple River, N. S. 80. 
Apsey Cove, N. F. 210. 
Aquafort, N. F. 198. 
ArdoiseMt.,N. S. 93. 
Argentenay, P. Q. 290. 
Argyle, N.S. 116, 125. 
Aricbat, C. B. 145. 
Arisaig, N. S. 139. 
Aroostook Valley, Me. 55. 
Arthurette, N. B. 54. 
Aspotogon Mt. , N. S. 127. 
Aspy Bay, C. B. 160. 
Athol. N. B. 80. 
Atlantic Cove, C. B. 160. 
Aulac, N. B. 74. 
Avalon, N. F. 198, 209. 
Avonport, N. S. 91. 
Aylesford, N. S. 89. 
Aylesford Lakes 90. 

Baccalieu Id., N.F. 201,205, 
14* 



Baccaro Point, N. S. 123. 
Baddeck, C. B. 162. 
Baddeck River, 167. 
Bagotville, P. Q. 302. 
Baie des Rochers, P. Q. 295. 
Bale St. Paul. P. Q. 292. 
Baie Verte, N S. 74. 
Ballard Bank, The 199. 
Ballyhaly Bog, N. F. 195. 
Bangor, Me. 39. 
Barachois, N. B. 59. 
Bareneed, N. F. 207. 
Barnaby Id., P. Q. 250, 
Barra, Strait of 164. 
Barr'd Ids., N. F. 210. 
Barrow, N. F. 214. 
Barrow Harbor 203. 
Barton, N. S. 112. 
Basin ofMinas 101, 108. 
Basque Harbor 183. 
Basque Island 251. 
Bass River 81. 
Bathurst, N. B. 65, 61. 
Batiscan, P, Q. 307. 
Batteau Harbor 225. 
Battery Point, N. B. 68. 
Battle Id.,Lab. 224, 200,206. 
Bay, Argyle, N. S. 116. 

Belleisle, N. B. 42. 

Bonavista, N. F. 203. 

Bonne, Lab. 219. 

Bradore, Lab. 230. 

Bulls, N. F. 194, 197. 

Canada, N. F. 221. 

Cardigan, P. E. I. 175. 

Conception, N.F. 195, 206. 

De Grave, N. F. 207. 

DuVin,N. B. 6L 

East, C. B. 147. 

Esquimaux, Lab 230. 

Eternity, P. Q. 303. 

Fortune, N. F. 214. 

Garia. N. F. 215. 

Ha Ha, P. Q. 301. 

Hairs, N. F.211. 

Hermitage, N. F. 215. 

Hillsborough 174, 175. 

Ingornachoix 219. 

Kennebecasis 40. 



Bay, Little, N. F. 215. 

Mahone, N. S. 118, 127. 

Miramichi, N. B. 61. ■ 

Oak, N. B. 34. 

of Chaleur 64, 240. 

of Despair 215. 

of Fair and False 203. 

ofFundy31,83. 

of Islands 218. 

of Notre Dame, N. F. 210. 

of St. John 219. 

Placentia, N. F. 212. 

Richmond, P. E. I. 178. 

Roberts, N. F. 207. 

St. Anne's, C. B. 158. 

St. George's, N. F. 217. 

St. John's, P. Q 304. 

St. Margaret's 126, 118. 

St. Mary's 112, 213. 

Sandwich, Lab. 225. 

Trinity, N. F. 208, 201. 

Verd, N. F. 201, 208. 

White, N. F, 221. 
Beach, The 206. 
Bear Cove 93. 
Bear Point 143. 
Bear River 85. 
Beaubair's Id., N. B. 63. 
Beaulieu, P. Q 289. 
Beaumont, P. Q. 254. 
Beauport, P. Q. 276. 
Beaver Bank, N. S. 93 
Beaver Harbor, C. B. 162. 
Beaver Harbor, N. B. 31. 
Beaver Harbor, N. S. 132. 
Beaver River 114. 
Becancour, P. Q. 307. 
Bedeque Bav, P. E. I. 174. 
Bedford Basin, N. S 100. 
Bellechasse Id. 254. 
Belledune, N. B 66. 
Belle Isle 220, 206. 
Belleisle Bay, N. B. 42.* 
Bell Isle, N. F. 221. 
Belleorem, N. F. 214. 
Belliveau Cove, N. S. 112. 
Belliveau Village 73. 
Beloeil Mt., P. Q. 319. 
Benacadie Point 165. 



322 



INDEX. 



Benmore 280. 
Bersimis River 233. 
Berthier en bas 254. 
Berthier en haul 308. 
Berwick, N. S. 90. 
BicId.,P. Q. 251. 
Big Loran, C. B. 154. 
Big Tancook Id. 128. 
Biquette, P. Q. 251. 
Birch Point 64. 
Birch town, N. S. 121. 
Bird Island Cove 202. 
Bird Isles 184. 
Bird Rock 161. 
Black Bay 228. 
Black Brook 61. 
Blackhead 196. 
Blackhead Cove 210. 
Black Point, N. S. 122. 
Black River, N. F. 212. 
Black River, P. Q. 295. 
Blancherotte, C. B. 147. 
Blanc Sablon, Lab 229. 
Blandford, N. B. 27. 
Blind Lake, N. S. 126. 
Bliss Id ,N. B. 31. 
Blissville, N. B. 49. 
Blockhouse Mines 153. 
Blomidon, Cape 102, 103. 
Bloody Bay, N.F. 203. 
Bloody Bridge 79. 
Bloody Brook, N. S. 89. 
Blow-me-Down Head 207. 
BlueMts.,N. S. 90,115. 
Blue Pinion, N. F. 214. 
Blue Rocks, N. S. 118. 
Boar's Back, N. S. 82. 
Boar's Head, N. B. 40. 
Boiestown, N. B. 47, 62. 
Boisdale 162. 
Bonami Point 67. 
Bonaparte Lake 36- 
Bonaventure Id. 243. 
Bonavista Bay, N. F. 203. 
Bonhomme, Le 307. 
Bonne Bay 219. 
Bonne Esperance Bay 230. 
Bonny, Lab. 230. 
Bon Portage Id. 124. 
Bonshaw, P. E. T. 174. 
Bothwell, P. E I. 182. 
Boucherville, P. Q. 309. 
Boularderie, C. B. 161. 
Bout de I'Tsle 308. 
Bradford's Cove 29. 
Bradore Bay, Lab. 230. 
Brae, P. E. I. 179. 
Braha, N. F 221. 
Branch, N. F. 212. 
Brandies, The 201. 
Brand v Pots 252, 296. 
Bras d'Or, The 161. 
Breton, Cape 149, 154. 
Bridgeport, C. B. 152. 



Bridgetown, N. S. 88. 
Bridgeton, P. E. 1. 182. 
Bridgewaterl28,119. 
Brigg's Corner 49. 
Brighton, N. S. 112. 
Brigus, N. F. 207. 
Bristol, N. B. 51. 
Broad Cove, N. B. 29. 
Broad Cove, N. F. 203. 
Broad Cove, N. S. 120. 
Broad Cove Intervale 169. 
Brookfield, N. S. 82, 130. 
Brooklyn, N. S. 93. 
Brookvale, N. B. 48. 
Broyle Harbor 197. 
Brucker's Hill 26. 
Brule Harbor 81. 
Brunet Id. 214. 
Bryant's Cove 207. 
Buctouche, N. B. 59. 
Bull Arm, N. F. 209. 
Bull Moose Hill 41. 
Burgeo, N. F. 215. 
Burgoyne's Ferry 51. 
Burin. N.F. 214, 212. 
Burlington, N. S 93. 
Burnt Church 62, 63. 
Burnt Head 207. 
Burnt Ridge 202. 
Burton, N. B. 43. 
Burying Place 211. 
Butter Pots, The 199. 

Cacouna, P. Q. 296, 252. 
Calais, Me. 35. 
Caledonia Comer 130. 
Calliere, P. Q. 295. 
Calvaire, Miq. 185- 
Calvaire, P. Q 306. 
Cambridge, N. B. 42. 
Cambriol, N. F. 214. 
Campbell River 55. 
Campbellton, N. B. 68. 
Camille, Mt. 249. 
Campobello Id. 25. 
Canaan River 72. 
Canada Bay 221. 
Canada Creek 90. 
Canning, N. B. 43. 
Canning, N. S. 91. 
Canso 142. 
Canterbury 37, 52. 
Cap a I'Aigle 294. 

au Corbeau 292. 

de la Magdelaine 307. 

de Meule 184. 

Rouge 281. 

St. Ignace 253. 
Cape Alright 184. 

Anguille, N. F. 217. 

Ballard, N. F. 213. 

Bauld, N. F. 220. 

Bear 175, 181. 

Blomidon, 91, 102, 103. 



Cape Bluff, Lab. 225. 
Breton, 149, 154. 
Broyle, N. F. 197. 
Canso, N. S. 134, 142, 
Chapeau Rouge 214, 189. 
Chatte, P. Q. 249. 
Chignecto, N. S. 104. 
Cove, N. S. 114. 
Cove, P. Q. 241. 
Colombier, P. Q. 233. 
Corneille, 294. 
Dauphin 158, 161. 
Desolation 226. 
Despair, P. Q. 241. 
Diable, P. Q. 252. 
d'Or, N. S. 103. 
East, P. Q. 301. 
Egmont, P. E.L 174,179. 
English, N. F. 213. 
EnragtS N. B. 72. 
Eternity, P. Q. 303. 
Fogo,N. F. 204, 210. 
Fourchu, N. S. 125. 
Freels, N. F. 203, 213. 
Gaspe, P. Q. 246. 
George, P. Q. 304. 
Goose 294. 
Grand Bank 214. 
Gribaune 291. 
Jourimain 59, 73. 
Kildare 180. 
Labaie 292. 
Lahave, N. S. 120. 
La Ilune 215. 
Largent 202. 
Mabou, C. B. 168. 
Magdelaine 248. 
Maillard 292. 
Marangouin 73. 
Morien, C. B. 153. 
Negro, N. S. 122. 
Norman, N. F. 220. 
North, C. B. 160. 
Perry, C. B. 153. 
Pine, N. F. 213. 
Porcupine, N. S. 144. 
Race, N. F 199, 189. 
Ray, N. F. 217, 216. 
Rhumore, C. B. 147. 
Ridge, N. F. 203. 
Ro?eway, N. S. 121. 
Rosier 247, 246. 
Rouge 291. 
Sable, N. S. 123. 
St. Anne 249. 
St. Francis 201, 225, 301. 
St. George 218 
St. Lawrence 160, 170. 
St. Michael 225. 
St. Nicholas 233. 
Sambro 118, 93. 
Smoky, C. B. 159. 
Spear, N.F. 189, 196. 
Spencer 104, 83. 



INDEX. 



323 



Cape Split, N. S. 104. 

Tourmente 287, 253. 

Tourmentiue 59, 73, 174. 

Traverse 174. 

Trinity, P. Q. 303. 

Try on, P. E. I 178. 

Victoria, P. Q. 304. 

West 302. 

Whittle, Lab. 230. 

Wolfe 179. 
Caplin Cove 198. 
Caraquette 66, 62. 
Carbonear, N.r. 208. 
Cardigan, N. B. 50. 
Cardigan, P. E.I. 181. 
Caribacoa 145. 
Caribou Id. 175, 224. 
Caribou Plains 80. 
Caribou Point 233. 
Carleton, N. B. 24. 
Caiieton, P. Q. 239. 
Carrousel Id. 233. 
Cascapediac Bay 240. 
Cascunipec 180. 
Castle Id., Lab. 227. 
Catalina, N. F. 201. 
Catalogue, C. B. 154. 
Cataracouy 280. 
Cat Cove 221. 
Caughnawaga 319. 
Cavendish, F. E. I. 178. 
Caverne de Bontemps 290. 
Cawee Ids. 283. 
Central Falmouth 91. 
Centre Hill 209. 
Chaleur, Bay of, 64,240. 
Chamcook Mt. S3. 
Cham plain, P. Q. 307. 
Chance Harbor 31. 
Change Ids. 205, 210. 
Channel, N. F. 216 
Chapel Id, C. B. 147. 
Charlesbourg, P. Q. 279. 
Charlottetown,P. E. 1.175. 
Chateau Bay, Lab. 227. 
Chateau Bellevue 287. 
Chateau Bigot 280. 
Chateau Richer 284. 
Chatham, N. B. 61,66. 
Chaudiere Falls 282. 
Chebucto Head 93. 
Chedabucto Bay 143. 
Chester, N. S. i27, 90. 
Cheticamp, C. B. 170. 
Cheticamp, N. S. 114. 
Chezzetcook.N. S. 13L 
Chicoutimi, P. Q. 300. 
Chignecto, Cape, 104. 
Chignecto Peninsula 79. 
Chimney Tickle 227. 
Chiputneticook Lakes, N. B. 

38, 46. 
Chivirie 93, 102, 106. 
Chouse Brook 221. 



Ciboux Ids. 161. 
Clairvaux, P. Q. 292. 
Clare, N. S. 113. 
Clarendon, N. B. 38. 
Clementsport, N. S. 85. 
Clementsvale 85. 
Clifton, N. B. 66, 71. 
Clode Sound 203. 
Cloridorme 248. 
Clouds, The, 221. 
Clyde River, N. S. 124. 
Coacocho River 231. 
CobequidMts., N. S. 80. 
Cocagne, N. B. 59. 
Colebrooke, N. B. 55. 
Cole's Id. N. B. 47. 
Colinet, N. F. 213. 
Columbe 215 
Conception Bay 195, 206. 
C6nche, N. F. 221. 
Contrecoeur, P. Q. 308. 
Corl.in, N. F. 214. 
Cornwallis YaUey, N. S. 90. 

103, 107. 
Corny Beach 243. 
Cote'de Beaupre,283. 

des Neiges 318. 

St. Antoine 318. 

St. Luc 318. 

St. Michel 318. 
Cottel's Id. 203. 
Coudres, Isle aux 293. 
Country Harbor 133. 
Covehead, P. E I. 181. 
CcwBay 101,150,153. 
Cox"s Point 49. 
Crabb's Brook 217. 
Crane Id., P. Q. 253. 
Crapaud, P. E. L 174, 
Creignish 168. 
Croque, N. F. 221. 
Cross Id., N. S. 118. 
Cumberland Bay 49. 
Cumberland Harbor 230. 
Cupids, N. F. 207. 

Dalhousie, N. B. 67. 
Dalibaire, P. Q. 249. 
Dark Cove, 30. 
Dartmouth, N. S. 101. 
Dauphiney's Cove 126. 
Davis Strait 226. 
Dead Ids. 216, 225. 
Deadman's Isle 184. 
Debec Junction 37. 
Debert 80, 105. 
Deep Cove 127. 
Deerfield, N S 115. 
Deer Harbor 209. 
Deer Isle, N. B. 25. 
Deer Lake 37. 
Deer Pond 219. 
Demoiselle Hill 183. 
Denys River, C. B. 165. 



De Sable 174. 
Descente des Femmes 302. 
Deschambault 306. 
D'Escousse, C. B. 145. 
Despair, Bay of, 215. 
Despair, Cape, 241. 
Devil Id. 93. 
Devil's Back, N. B. 41. 
Devil's Goose-Pasture 90. 
Devil's Head 34. 
Diable Bay 228. 
Digby, N. S. 84. 
Digby Neck 116. 
Dipper Harbor 31. 
Distress Cove 212. 
Dodding Head 214. 
Dollannan Bank 202. 
D'Or, Cape, N. S. 103. 
Dorchester, N. B. 73. 
Doucet's Id. N B. 34. 
Douglas Harbor 49. 
Douglastown, N. B. 62. 
Douglastown, P. Q. 244. 
Douglas Valley 38. 
Dumfries, N B. 52. 
Dundas, N. B. 59. 
Dundas, P, E. I. 182. 
Dunk River 174. 

Earl town, N. S. 136. 
East Bay 147, 165, 214. 
Eastern Passage 93. 
East Point 182. 
Eastport, Me. 26. 
East River 126, 225. 
Eboulements, Les, 294. 
Echo Lake 131. 
Economy Point 105, 80. 
Ecureuils, Les, 306. 
Eddy Point 143. 
Edmundston, N. B. 57. 
Edoobekuk, C B. 147. 
Eel Brook 30. 
Egg Ids., Lab. 233. 
Ekum Sekum. N. S. 132. 
Ellershouse, N. S. 93. 
Elliot River 174. 
Elmsdale, N. S 82. 
Elysian Fields, N. S. 79. 
Enfield, N. S. 82. 
English Harbor 201. 
English Harbor West 214. 
English Point 233. 
Englishtown, C. B 158. 
Enniskillen,N. B. 38. 
Entry Id. 184. 
Escasoni, C. B. 148. 
Escuminac Point 61. 
Esquimaux Bay 230, 244. 
Eternity Bay 303. 
Exploits Id. 205, 210. 
Exploits, River of 210. 
Factory Dale, N S. 89. 
FairviUe, N. B. 37. 



324 



INDEX. 



Fairy Lake, N. S. 130. 
Falkland, N. S. 90, 93. 
Falls, Chaudiere 282, 320. 

Chicoutimi, P. Q. 300. 

Grand 55, 66. 

Grand, N. F. 210. 

Grande-Mere 307. 

Lorette, P. Q. 278. 

Magaguadavic 32. 

Manitousin 232. 

Montmorenei 277. 

Nictau, N. S. 89. 

North River 105. 

Pabineau, N. B. 66. 

Pokiok, N. B. 52. 

PoUett 72. 

Rideau, Ont. 820 

Riviere du Loup 295. 

Riviere du Sud 253. 

Sfc. Anne, P. Q. 286. 

Sault a la Puce 284. 

Shawanegan 307. 

Sissiboo, N. S. 112. 
Falmouth, N. S. 91 
Farmington, N. S. 89. 
Father Point, P. Q. 250. 
Ferguson's Cove lOl. 
Fermeuse, N. F. 198. 
Fern Ledges 24. 
Ferry land, N. F. 198. 
Fish Head 30. 
Five Ids ,N. S. 105, 80. 
Flagg's Cove 29. 
Fleurant Point 67. 
Flint Id., C.B. 150,153. 
Florenceville, N. B. 53. 
Flower Cove 219. 
Fogo, N. F. 204. 
Folly Pass, N. S. 80. 
Forks, The 48, 54. 
Fort Beaubassin 74, 78. 
Fort Beausejour 74, 78. 
Fort Cumberland 74, 78. 
Forteau, Lab. 228. 
Fort Fairfield, Me. 54. 
Fort Ingalls, N. B. 58. 
Fort Jaques Cartier 306. 
Fort Kent, Me. 58. 
Fort Lawrence 74, 78. 
Fort Meductic, N. B. 52, 46. 
Fort Nascopie, Lab. 226. 
Fort Norwest, Lab. 226. 
Fortune, N. F. 214. 
Foster's Cove 54. 
Fourchette, N. F. 221. 
Fourchu, C. B. 147. 
Fox Harbor, N. S. 103, 81 
Fox Hirbor, Lab. 224. 
Fox River 248. 
Framboise, C. B. 147. 
Frazer's Head 104. 
Fredericton, N. B. 44. 
Fredericton June. 38. 
French Cross, N. S. 89. 



French Fort Creek 180. 
French Lake 48. 
Frenchman's Cove 214. 
French River 138. 
French Shore, The 216. 
French Village 151. 
Frenchville, Me. 57. 
Freshwater Bay 203. 
Friar's Face 26. 
Frozen Ocean 130. 
FunkId.,N. F. 204. 

Gabarus Bay 154, 149. 
Gagetown, N. B. 42, 48. 
Gairloch.N. S. 136. 
Galantry Head 185. 
Gambo Ponds 203. 
Gander Bay 210. 
Gannet Rock, N. B. 29. 
Gannet Rock 184. 
Garia Bay 215- 
Garnish, N. F. 214. 
Gasps, P. Q. 244. 
Gaspereaux Lake 90. 
Gay's River, N. S 82. 
Gentilly, P. Q. 307. 
George Id. 179. 
George's Id., N. S. 98. 
Georgetown,P. E.I. 181,175 
Gibson, N. B. 49. 
Gilbert's Cove 112. 
Glace Bay 153, 150. 
Glengarry, N. S. 136. 
Goat Id., N. S. 85. 
Godbout, Lab. 233. 
Goldenville, N. S. 133. 
Gold River 128. 
Gondola Point 71. 
Gooseberry Isles, 203. 
Goose Id. 253. 
Gouffre, Le 293. 
Gowrie Mines 153. 
Grand Anse, C. B. 145. 
Grand Anse, N. B. 66. 
Grand Banks, The 199. 
Grand Bay 40. 
Grand Digue 145. 
Grande Bale 302. 
Grande-Mere Falls 307. 
Grand Falls, Lab. 226. 
Grand Falls, N. B. 55. 
Grand Greve, P. Q. 244. 
Grand Harbor 29. 
Grand Lake 36, 48. 
Grand Lake Stream 35. 
Grand Manan 28. 
Grand Narrows 164. 
Grand Pond 218, 211. 
Grand Pre 107, 91, 101. 
Grand River, C. B. 147. 
Grand River, N. B. 56. 
Grand River 241. 
Grand-River Lake 147. 
Grand Rustico 178. 



Grandy's Brook, 215. 
Grant Isle, Me. 57. 
Granville, N. S. 86. 
Great Bartibog 61. 
Great Boule 233. 
Great Bras d'Or 161, 164. 
Great Codroy 217. 
Great Ha Ha Lake 302. 
Great Harbor Deep 221. 
Great Meccatina 230. 
Great Miquelou 186. 
Great Pabos 241. 
Great Pond 248. 
Great Pubnico Lake 124. 
Great St. Lawrence 214. 
Great Shemogue 59. 
Great Village 81. 
Green Bay 211. 
Greenfield 130. 
Green Harbor 209. 
Green Ids 124,214,252. 
Greenly Id. 229. 
Green River 57. 
Greenspond, N. F. 203. 
Greenville 80. 
Greenwich Hill 41. 
Grenville Harbor 178. 
Griffin's Cove 248. 
Griguet, N. F. 221. 
Grimross, N. B. 42, 
Grindstone Id. 183. 
Grondines, P. Q. 308. 
Grosse Isle 254. 
Grosses Coques 113. 
Gull Rock 121. 
Gut of Canso 142. 
Guysborough 133. 

Habitants Bay 143. 
Ha Ha Bay, P. Q. 301. 
Halifax, N. S. 93. 

Admiralty House 97. 

Cathedral 98. 

Citadel 96. 

Dalhousie Coll. 98. 

Gov't House 98. 

Harbor 93. 

Hortic. Gardens 98. 

Museum 93 

Parliament Building 95. 

Provincial Building 95. 

Queen's Dockyard 97. 

Y. M. C. A. 96. 
Halifax, P. E. I. 179. 
Hall's Bay 211, 218. 
Hammond's Plains 100. 
Hampton, N. B. 71. 
Hampton, N. S. 89. 
Hantsport, N. S. 91, 101. 
Harbor Briton 214. 
Harbor Buffet 212. 
Harbor Grace, N. F. 207. 
Harborville, N. S. 90. 
Hare Bay, N. F. 221. 



INDEX. 



325 



HareId.,P. Q. 252. 

Hare's Ears 198. 
Hare"s-Head Hills 218. 
Harmony, P. E. I. 182. 
Harvey, N. B. 38. 
Harvey Corner 72. 
Haulover Isthmus 146. 
Havelock.N. S. 89. 
Head of Amherst 78. 
Heart Ridge, N. F. 210. 
Heart's Content 208. 
Heart's Delight 209. 
Heart's Desire 209. 
Heart's Ease, N. F. 209. 
Hebertville, P. Q. 300. 
Hebron, Lab. 226. 
Heights of Land 226. 
Hell Hill 197. 
Hermitage Bay 215. 
Herring Cove, N. S. 93. 
High Beacon 227. 
Highland Park 23. 
Highland Village 81. 
High Point 301. 
Hillsborough, N. B. 72. 
Hillsborough Bay 174. 
Hillsborough River 180. 
Hillsburn 86. 
Hochelaga, P. Q. 318. 
Hodge- Water River 213. 
Holland Bay, 180. 
Holyrood, N. F. 199. 
Holyrood Pond 213. 
Hooping Harbor 221. 
Hope, P. Q. 241. 
Hope All, N. F. 209. 
Hopedale, Lab. 226. 
Hopewell 136. 
Hopewell Cape 72. 
Horton Landing 91. 
Hculton, Me. 37, 51. 
Howe's Lake 23. 
Hudson's Strait 226. 
Humber River 219. 
Hunter River 177, 178. 

Indian Bay 167, 203. 
Indian Beach 30. 
Indian Gardens 130. 
Indian Id., Lab. 225. 
Indian Ids. 210. 
Indian Lorette 278. 
Indian Tickle 225. 
Indiantown, N. B. 47. 
Indian Village 51. 
Ingonish,C. B. 159. 
Intervale 133 
lonclay Hill 197. 
Irish Cove, C. B. 147. 
Ironbound Cove, N. B 49. 
Ironbound Id., N. S. 119. 
Island, Alright 184. 

Amherst 183. 

Anticosti 234. 



Island, Baccalieu, N. I". 201. 

Barnaby, P. Q. 250. 

Beaubair's 63. 

Bellechasse 254. 

Bic,P. Q. 250. 
■ Blackbill 227. 

Bonaventure 243. 

Bon Portage 124. 

Boughton 175. 

Boularderie 161. 

Brandy Pots 252. 

Brier 117. 

Brunet214. . 

Bryon 184. 

Campobello 25. 

Cai e Breton 141. 

Cape Sable 123. 

Caribou 175, 224. 

Carrousel 233. 

Castle, Lab. 227. 

Caton's 41. 

'Cawee 233. 

Chapel 147. 

Cheticamp 170. 

Cheyne 29. 

Christmas 164. 

Cobbler's 203. 

Coffin 184. 

Cole's 47. 

Cottel's 203. 

Crane, P. Q. 253. 

Cross, N. S. 118. 

Dead, N. F. 225. 

Deer 203. 

Devil, N. S. 93. 

Egg, Lab. 233. 

Entry 184. 

Esquimaux, Lab. 231. 

Exploits, N. F. 205, 210. 

Fair, N. F. 203. 

Fishflake 227. 

Fly 225. 

Fogo, N. F. 204, 210. 

Foster's, N. B. 41. 

Fox, N. B. 61. 

Funk, N. F. 203. 

George 179. 

George's, N. S. 98. 

Goat, N. S. 85. 

Goose, P. Q. 253. 

Governor's 175. 

Grand Dune 61. 

Grand Manan 28. 

Grassy, N. B. 41. 

Great Caribou 224. 

Greenl24,201, 220, 252 

Grimross, N. B. 43. 

Grindstone 72, 183. 

Grosse 184. 

Hare, P. Q. 252. 

Henry 169, 

Heron 67. 

Horse 221. 

Huntington 225. 



Island, Indian 225. 
Ireland, N. F. 215. 
Ironbound 119. 
Jaques Cartier 220. 
Kamouraska 252. 
Large 231. * 
Lennox, P. E. I. 179. 
Little Miquelon 186. 
Little Bay 211. 
Locke's, N. S. 121. 
Long42, 101,107, 117, 212. 
Lower Musquash 42. 
McNab's, N. S. 101,93. 
Madame, P. Q. 254. 
Mauger's 43. 
Melville 101. 
Merasheen 212. 
Middle 43. 
Miquelon 186. 
Miscou 64. 
Moose 26. 
Nantucket 29. 
Negro 122. 
Newfoundland 187. 
New World 205. 
of Ponds 225. 
Panmure, P. E. I. 175. 
Park, P E. I. 179. 
Partridge, N. B. 15. 
Partridge, N. S. 102, 103. 
Penguin 203. 
Pictou, N. S. 175. 
Pilgrims 252. 
Piucher's 203. 
Pinnacle 105. 
Pockf-uedie 63. 
Pool's 203. 
Portage 61. 
Priests' 318. 
Prince Edward 172. 
Quarry 231. 
Quirpon 220. 
Ram 121. 

Random, N. F. 209. 
Reaux, P. Q. 254. 
Red 212, 218, 252. 
Sable 134. 
Saddle 228. 
Sagona 214. 
St. Barbe221. 
St. PauFs 160. 
St. Pierre 185. 
Sandous 46. 
Seal, N. S. 124. 
Sea-Wolf 169. 
Sheldrake 61. 
Shippigan 63. 
Smith's 169. 
Spencer's 103, 104, 106. 
Spotted, N. F. 225. 
Square, Lab. 225. 
Stone Pillar 253. 
Sugar 60, 51. 
Venison 225. 



326 



INDEX. 



Island, Vin, N. B. 61. 

White Head 29. 

White Horse 31. 

Wolf 184. 

Wood Pillar 253- 
Island^, Battle 224. 

Burnt 215. 

Camp 227. 

Ciboux 181. 

Bead 21-5. 

Five 105. 

Lit le St. Modeste 228. 

Magdalen 183. 

Mingan 231. 

Mutton 124. 

Penguin 203. 

Ragged 212. 

Bamea 215. 

Ram's, N. F. 212. 

Red 147. 

Seal 225. 

Seven, Lab. 232. 

Tancook, N. S. 128. 

Tusket, N. S. 125. 
Isle aux Chiens 185. 

aux Coudres 293. 

Bell, N. F. 221. 

Belle 206, 220. 

Deadman's 184. 

Deer, N. B. 25. 

Groais 221. 

Haute 104. 

Jesus 318. 

Madame 145. 

of Orleans 288. 

St Louis 304. 

St. Therese 308. 

Verte, P Q. 252. 
Isles, Bird 184. 

Burgeo 215 

de la Demoiselle 230. 

Gooseberry 203. 

Passe Pierre -305. 

Peterel 227. 

Twillingate 205. 

Wadham, N. F. 203. 

West, N. B.25, 31. 

Jackson's Arm 221. 
Jacksonville, N. S. 90. 
Jaques Car tier .303. 
Jebogue Point 125 
Jeddore, N. S. 132. 
Jemseg, N. B. 42, 48. 
Jerseyman Id. 145. 
Jesus, Isle 318. 
Jeune-Lorette 278. 
Joe Batt's Arm 210. 
Joggins Shore 80. 
Jolicoeur, N. B. 73. 
Joliette, P. Q. 
Jonquiere 300. 
Judique, C B. 168. 
Jullaushaab, Gr. 226. 



Kamouraska, P. Q. 252. 

Keels, N. F. 203. 
Kegashka Bay 231. 
Kempt Head 162. 
Kempt, N S. 115. 
Kempt Lake, N. S. 90. 
Kennebecasis Bay 40, 22. 
Kenogami, P. Q. 300. 
Kensington 178. 
Kentviile, N. S. 90. 
Keswick Valley 50. 
Keyhole, N. B. 49. 
Kingsclear, N. B. 51. 
King's Cove 203. 
Kingston, N. B. 42. 
Kingston, N. S. 89. 
Kouchibouguac Bay 61. 

La Bonne St. Anne 285. 
Labrador 223. 
Lac i la Belle Truite 302. 
Lachine, P. Q. 320. 
La Fleur de Lis 221. 
Lahave River 128. 
Lake Ainslie 167, 169. 

Bathurst 211. 

Bear 38. 

Beauport 279. 

Belfry 154. 

Ben Lomond 23. 

Blind 123. 

Catalogue, C B. 154. 

Cedar, N. S. 115. 

Chamberlain, Me. 58. 

Chesuncook 58. 

Cleveland 57. 

Cranberry 33. 

Croaker's 211. 

Echo, N. S. 131. 

Fairy, N. S. 130. 

French, N. B. 48. 

Gabarus, C. B 154. 

Gaspereaux 90. 

George 51,90, 115. 

George IV. 211. 

Grand 48, 36, 82. 

Gravel 295. 

Great Ha Ha 302. 

Jones 23. 

Kempt 90. 

Lewey's, Me. 35. 

Lily, N. B. 22. 

Little Ha Ha 302. 

Long, P. Q. 58. 

Long, N. S. 82. 

Magaguadavic 38. 

Malaga, N. S. 129. 

Manor, P. Q. 319. 

Maquapit, N. B. 48. 

Metapedia 69. 

Mira, C B. 154. 

Mistassini 301. 

Moosehead 58. 

Mount Theobald 71. 



Lake Nepisiguit 55. 

Nictor, N. B. 55. 

Oromocto 38. 

Pechtaweekagomic 68. 

Pemgockwahen 58. 

Pockwock 100. 

Pohenagamook 58. 

Ponhook, N. S. 126. 

Porter's 131. 

Pom Medway 130. 

Preble, Me. 57. 

Prince William 52. 

Queen's, N. B. 37. 

Quiddv Viddv 195. 

Robin Hool 37. 

Rocky, N. S. 82, 

Ros^ignol 130. 

St. Charles 279. 

St. Joachim 287. 

St. John, P. Q. 301. 

St. Peter, P. Q. 307. 

Sedgwick 57. 

Segum Sega 130. 

Sheogomoc 52. 

Shepody, N. B. 72. 

Sherbrooke 90. 

Sherwood, N. B. 37. 

Ship Harbor 132. 

S. Oromocto 38. 

Spruce, N. B. 24. 

Stream 49. 

Taylor's 23. 

Temiscouata 58, 295. 

Terra Nova 203. 

Tracy's, N B. 71. 

Tusket, N. S. 115. 

Two-Mile 90. 

Utopia, N. B. 32. 

Vaughan, N. S. 115. 

Washademoak 47, 42. 

Welastookwaagamis 58. 

Went worth 113. 

Windsor, N. F- 195. 

Winthrop, Me. 58. 
Lakes, Aylesford 90. 

Bras d'Or 161. 

Chiputneticook 38. 

Dartmouth 101. 

Eagle, Me. 58. 

Schoodic, Me. 35. 

Tusket, N. S. 115. 
La Manche 197, 212. 
Lance-au-Loup 228. 
Lance Cove 206. 
Land's End, 41. 
Langley Id 186. 
Lanoraie, P. Q. 308. 
L'Anse a I'Eau 305. 
La Poile, N. F. 215. 
L'Archeveque 147. 
L'Ardoise, C B. 146. 
Large Id. 231. 
LaScie221,211. 
L'Assomption, P. Q. SOS. 



INDEX. 



327 



Laval Rirer 299. 
LaTaltrie, P. Q. 308. 
La Vieille 246. 
Lawlor's Lake 70. 
Lawrencetown 89, 131. 
Lazaretto, Tracadie 62. 
Ledge, The 35. 
Leitchfield, N. S. 86. 
Lennox Id. 179. 
Lennox Passage 145. > 
Les E'ooulements 294. 
Les Ecureuils 306. 
Les Escoumains 233. 
L'Etang du Nord 184. 
L'Etang du Savoyard 185. 
L'Etang Harbor 31. 
Letite Passage 32. 
Levis, P. Q; 282. 
Lewey's Id. 35. 
Lewis Cove 47. 
Lily Lake 22. 
Lingan 152, 150, 
Lion's Back 23. 
Liscomb Harbor 132. 
L'Islet, P. Q. 253. 
L'Islet au Massacre 250. 
Little Arichat 145. 
Little Bay Id. 205, 211. 
Little Bras d'Or 161. 
Little Falls 57. 
Little Glace Bay 153. 
Little Ha Ha Lake 302. 
Little Lorau 154. 
Little Miquelon 186. 
Little Narrows 167. 
Little Pabos 24L 
Little Placentia 212. 
Little River 22. 
Little Rocher 72. 
Little Saguenay 304. 
Little St. Lawrence 214. 
Little Seldom-come-by 210. 
Little Shemogue 59. 
Little Tancook 128. 
Liverpool, N. S. 120, 130. 
Lobster Harbor 221. 
Loch Alva 37. 
Loch an Fad 147. 
Loch Lomond, C. B. 147. 
Loch Lomond, N. B. 22. 
Lochside, C. B. 147. 
Loch TJist 147. 
Locke's Id., N. S 121. 
Logic Bay 195. 200. 
Londonderry 105. 
Longld. 40 ; 42. 101,117. 
Long Pilgrim 252, 
Long Point 231, 
Long Range 217. 
Long Reach 41. 
Long's Eddy 30. 
Longue Point 319. 
Lorette, Indian 278. 
Lotbiniere, P. Q. 306. 



Louisbourg, C. B, 154, 149. 
Loup Bay 228. 
Low Point 168. 
Lower Canterbury 52. 
Lower Caraquette 66. 
Lo-wer French Vill 51. 
Lower Horton 107- 
Lower Middleton 89. 
Lower Prince William 51. 
Lower Queensbury 51. 
Lower Woodstock 52. 
Lubec, Me. 26. 
Ludlow, N. B. 47. 
Lunenburg 118, 128. 

Mabou, C. B. 169. 
Mabou Valley 168. 
McAdam June. 38, 
Maccan, N. S. 80, 79. 
Mace's Bay 31. 
McNab's Id. 101, 93. 
Madawaska 57. 
Magaguadavic River 32. 
Magdalen Ids. 183. 
Magdelaine, Cape 248. 
Maguacha Point 67, 239. 
Magundy, N. B. 51. 
Mahogany Road 24. 
Mahone Bay 127, 118, 
Main-i-Dieu 150. 
Maitland 82, 105, 129. 
Malaga Lake 130. 
Malagawdatchkt 165. 
Malbaie, P. Q. 294. 
Mai Bay 244. 
Malcolm Point 61. 
Malignant Cove 139. 
Malpeque Harbor 178. 
Manchester, N. S. 133. 
Manicouagan 233, 250. 
Manitousin Falls 232. 
Maquapit Lake 48. 
Marchmont 280. 
Margaree River 167. 
Margaree Forks 170. 
Margaretsville 89. 
Maria, P. Q. 240. 
Marie Joseph 132. 
Marion Bridge 154. 
Marshalltown 112. 
Mars Head 117. 
Mars Hill 54. 
Marsh Road 22. 
Marshy Hope 138. 
Mascarene 32. 
Masstown 81. 
Matane, P. Q. 249. 
Mattawamkeag 39, 58. 
Maugerville. N. B. 43. 
Mealy Mts. 225. 
Meccatina, Lab. 230. 
Medisco, N. B. 66. 
Meductic Rapids 52. 
Mejarmette Portage 40. 



Melford Creek 143. 

Melrose, N. S. 82. 
Melvern Square 89. 
Melville Id. 101. 
Melville Lake 226. 
Memramcook 73. 
Merasheen Id, 212. 
Merigomish 138. 
Metapedia 69. 
Meteghan, N. S. 113. 
M6tis, P. Q. 249, 
Middle Musquodoboit 82. 
Middle River 163, 167. 
Middle Simonds, 53. 
Middle Stewiacke 81. 
Middleton, N. S. 89. 
Milford, N. S. 129, 
Milford Haven 138. 
Milkish Channel 41. 
Mill Cove, N. B. 49. 
Mille Vaches 299. 
Milltown, N. B. 35. 
Mill Village 128. 
Minas Basin 101, 108. 
Mingan Ids., Lab. 231. 
Ming's Bight 221. 
Minister's Face 22, 
Minudie, N. S. 79, 
Miquelon 185, 214. 
Mira Bay 150. 
MiraLake, C. B. 154. 
Miramichi, N. B. 61. 
Miscouche 179. 
Miscou Id. 64. 
Mispeck, N. B. 23. •»- 
Missiguash Marsh 79, 74. 
Mission Point 68. 
Mistanoque Id. 230. 
Mistassini, Lake 301, 
Moisic River 232. 
Molasses Harbor 134, 
Momozeket River 55. 
Moncton, N. B 72. 
Money Cove 30. 
Montague Bridge 181. 
Montague Mines 101, 131. 
Mont Joli 231. 
Mont Louis 249. 
Montmorenci Falls 277. 
Montreal, P. Q. 309. 

Bonsecours Market 312, 

Champ de Mars, 312. 

Christ Ch. Cathed. 314. 

Court House 312. 

Dominion Sq. 315. 

Geolog. Museum 312. 

Gesii Church 313. 

Gray Nunnery 315, 

Great Seminary 315. 

Hfltel Dieu 316. 

Institut Canadien 312. 

McGill Univ. 314. 

Montreal Coll. 315, 

Mt. Royal 316, 



328 



INDEX. 



Montreal, Nazareth Asyl. 
316. 

New Cathedral 315. 

Notre Dame 311. 

Place d'Armes 311. 

Post-Office 311. 

Seminary 312. 

St. Helen's Isle 313. 

Victoria Bridge 316. 

Yictoria Square 311. 
Moose Harbor 120. 
Moosepath Park 22. 
Morden, N. S. 89. 
MorreH,P. E. 1.182. 
Morris Id. 116. 
Morristown 90, 139. 
Mosquito Cove 208. 
Moss Glen 22. 
Moulin k Baude 299. 
Mount Aspotogon 127. 

Blair 32. 

Calvaire 186. 

Camille 250. 

Chapeau 186. 

Dalhousie 67. 

Denson 91. 

Eboulements 294, 253. 

Granville 146. 

Hawley 89. 

Hermon Cemet. 280. 

Joli 242. 

Nat 225. 

Pisgah 71. 

Royal 316, 318. 

St. Anne 242. 

Stewart, P. E. 1. 181. 

TeneriEFe, N. B. 55. 

Uniacke, N. S. 93. 
Mountain, Ardoise, 93. 

Bald, 38, 55. 

Beloeil 319. 

Boar's Back 132. 

Boucherville 319. 

Chamcook 33. 

North 84. 

Salt 168. 

South 81 

Sugar-Loaf 159. 

Tracadiegash 67, 239. 
Mountains, Antigonish 139. 

Baddeck 163. 

Blue 84,90,115,130. 

Cobequid 80. 

Ingonish 161. 

Mealy 225. 

Notre Dame 249. 

St. Anne 287. 

St. Margaret 302. 

Scaumenac 68. 

Sporting 146. 
Mull River 168. 
Murray Bay 294. 
Murray Harbor 181. 
Mushaboon Harbor 132. 



Musquash, N. B. 31. 
Musquodoboit 131. 
Mutton Ids. 124. 

Nain, Lab. 226. 
Napan Valley 61. 
Narrows, The 47, 54. 
Narrows, Grand 164. 
Nashwaak 47. 
Nashwaaksis 45. 
Natashquan Point 231. 
Natural Steps, The 277. 
Necum Tench 132. 
Negro Id., N. S. 122. 
Negrotown Point 15. 
Nelson, N. B. 63. 
Nepisiguit Lake 55. 
Nepisiguit River 65. 
Nerepis Hills, N. B.41. 
Nerepis River 38. 
Netsbuctoke 225. 
Neutral Id., N. B. 34. 
New Albany, N. S. 89. 
New Bandon 66. 
New Bay 211. 
New Bonaventure 210. 
New Brunswick 13. 
Newburgh,N. B. 50. ' 
New Canaan 48. 
New Carlisle 240. 
Newcastle 49, 62. 
New DubUn 119. 
New Edinburgh 112. 
Newfoundland 187. 
New Glasgow, N. S. 136. 
New Glasgow, P. E. I. 178. 
New Liverpool 282. 
New London 178. 
Newman Sound 203. 
New Perlican 209. 
Newport, N. S. 92, 101. 
Newport, P. Q. 241. 
New Richmond 240. 
New Ross, N. S. 90. 
New Tusket 113. 
Niapisca Id. 231. 
Nicolet, P. Q 308. 
Nictau Falls 89. 
Nictor Lake 55. 
Niger Sound 227. 
Nimrod, N. F. 211. 
Nipper's Harbor 205, 211. 
Noel, N. S. 105. 
North Bay 214. 
Northern Head 30. 
Northfield 129. 
North Harbor 212. 
North Joggins 73. 
North Lake 182. 
North Mt. 84. 
North Point 180. 
North River Falls 105. 
North Rustico 178. 
North Sydney 151. 



Northumberland Strait 60, 

174, 239. 
Northwest Arm 100. 
North Wiltshire 177. 
Norton, N.B. 71,42. 
Norwest,Lab. 226. 
Notre Dame Bay 210, 205. 
Notre Dame du Lac 58. 
Nova Scotia 75. 
Nubble Id. 31. 

Oak Bay, N. B. 34. 
Oak Point 41, 61. 
Ochre Pit Cove 208. 
Offer Wadham 204. 
Okkak, Lab. 226. 
Old Barns 81. 
Old Bonaventure 210. 
Old Ferolle 219. 
Old Fort Point 158. 
Oldham Mines 82. 
Old Maid 29. 
Old Perlican 209, 201. 
Oldtown, Me. 39. 
Olomanosheebo 231. 
Onslow 80. 
Oromocto, N. B. 43. 
Oromocto Lake 38. 
Orono, Me. 39. 
Otnabog, N. B. 42. 
Ottawa, Ont. 320- 
Outarde River 250. 
Oxford, N. S. 80. 
Ovens, the 119. 

Pabineau Falls 66. 
Pabos, P. Q. 241. 
Painsec June. 72, 59. 
Paps of Matane 249. 
Paradise, N. F. 225. 
Paradise, N. S. 89. 
Parrsboro', N. S. 102. 
Partridge Id., N. B. 15. 
Partridge Id., N.S. 102. 
Paspebiac, P. Q 240. 
Patrick's Hole 290. 
Patten, Me. 58. 
Penguin Ids. 203. 
Penobscot River 39. 
Penobsquis, N. B. 71. 
Pentecost River 233. 
Pepiswick Lake 131. 
Perce, P. Q. 242. 
Perroquets, The 232. 
Perry, Me. 28. 
Perth, N. B. 54. 
Petitcodiac 72, 48. 
Petit de Grat 145. 
Petite Bergeronne 233. 
Petite Passage 117. 
Petit Metis 249. 
Petty Harbor 197. 
Piccadrlly Mt. 7L 
Pickwaakeet 42. 



INDEX. 



329 



Pictou 137, 166. 
Pictou Id. 175. 
Pilgrims, The 252. 
Pincher's Id. 203. 
Pinnacle Id., N. S. 105. 
Pirate's Cove 143. 
Pisarinco Cove 31. 
Placentia Bay 212. 
Plains of Abraham 280. 
Plaster Cove 143, 168. 
Pleasant Bay 183. 
Pleasant Point 27. 
Pleureuse Point 249. 
Plumweseep 71. 
Pockmouche, N. B. 62. 
Pockshaw, N. B. 66. 
Point a Beaulieu 295 
PointAconi, C. B. 161. 

Amour, Lab. 228. 

a Pique 294. 

au Bourdo 69. 

de Monts 233, 249. 

duChene59,60. 

la Boule 305. 

Lepreau 31. 

Levi, P. Q. 282. 

Maquereau 241. 

Miscou, N. B. 64. 

Orignaux 252. 

Pleasant 40, 68, 100. 

Prim 175, 181. 

Rich, N. F. 219. 

St. Charles 316. 

St. Peter 244. 

Wolfe, N. B. 71. 
Pointe k la Garde 68. 

■A la Croix 68. 

aux Trembles 306, 309. 

Mille Vaches 233. 

Roches 301. 

Rouge 299. 
Pokiok Falls 52. 
Pollett River 72. 
Pomquet Forks 139. 
Pond, Deer, N. F. 219. 

Grand, N. F. 218. 

Red Indian 211. 

Quemo-Gospen 213. 
Ponhook Lake 130, 126. 
Port Acadie, N. S. 113. 
Portage Road, N. B. 61. 
Port au Basque, N. F. 216. 

au Choix 219. 

au Persil, P. Q. 295. 

au Pique 81. 

au Port, N. F. 218. 

aux Quilles, 295. 

Daniel 241. 

Elgin, N. B.73. 
Porter's Lake, N. S. 131. 
Port Greville, N. S. 103. 

Hastings, C. B. 143. 

Hawkesbury 143. 

Herbert, N. S. 121. 



Port Hill, P. E. I. 179. 

Hood, C. B. 169. 

Joli, N. S. 121. 

Latour, N. S. 122. 

Medway, N. S. 120. 
. Mouton 120. 

Mulgrave 143, 140. 
Port IN euf, Lab. 233. 
Portneuf, P. Q. 306. 
Porto Nuevo Id. 149. 
Portugal Cove 195, 206. 
Port St. Augustine 230. 
Port Williams 89, 91. 
Powder-Horn Hills 212. 
Pownal, P. E. I. 177. 
Presque Isle, Me. 54. 
Preston, N. S. 131. 
Preston's Beach 61. 
Prim Point 83. 
Prince Edward Id. 172. 
Princetown, P. E. I. 178. 
Prince William 52. 
Prince William St. 89. 
Pubnico, N. S. 125. 
Pugwash81,80. 

Quaco, N. B. 71. 
Quebec, P. Q. 255. 

Anglican Cathedral 260. 

Basilica 261. 

Cathedral 261. 

Citadel 266. 

Custom House 271. 

Durham Terrace 259. 

Esplanade 268 

Gen. Hospital 272. 

Gov.'s Garden 269, 

Grand Battery 269. 

Hotel Dieu 266 

Jesuits' College 261. 

Laval University 263. 

Lower Town 271. 

Marine IIosp 272. 

Market Sq. 260. 

Martello Towers 270. 

Montcalm Ward 270. 

Morrin College 265. 

N. D. des Victoires 271. 

Parliament Building 263. 

Post-Office 264. 

St. John Ward 269. 

St. Roch 272. 

Seminary 262. 

Ursuline Conv. 264. 
Quemo Gospen 213. 
Quiddy Viddvl95. 
Quirpon, N. F. 220. 
Quispamsis, N. B. 70. 
Quoddy Head 26. 
Ragged Harbor 201. 
Ragged Ids. 212. 
Ramealds. N. F. 215. 
Ram Id. 121. 
Ram's Ids. N. F. 212. 



Random Sound 209. 
Rankin's Mills, N. B. 37. 
Rapide de Femme 56. 
Rapids, Lachine 319. 

Meductic 52. 

St, Anne 320. 

St. Mary's 319. 

Terres Rompues 300. 
Red Bay 228. 
Red Cliffs, Lab. 220, 228. 
Red Head, N. F. 200. 
Red Hills, N. F. 199. 
Red-Indian Pond 210, 211. 
Red Ids. 147. 
Red Point 182. 
Red Rapids, N. B. 54. 
Remsheg, N. S 81. 
RenewTe, N. F. 198. 
Renfrew, N. S. 82. 
Repentigny, P. Q. 308- 
Restigouche River 69, 56. 
Richibucto, N. B. 60. 
Richmond Bay 178. 
Rigolette, Lab. 226. 
Rimouski, P. Q. 250. 
River, Avon, N S. 91. 

Charlo, N. B. 66. 

Deuys, C. B. 165. 

Gold, N. S. 128 

GoufFre, P. Q. 292. 

Hillsborough 180. 

Humber, N F. 219. 

John, N S. 81. 

Lallave, N. S. 128. 

Louison, N. B. 66. 

Magaguadavic 32. 

Manitou, Lab. 232. 

Miramichi 61. 

Mistassini 301. 

Moisic, Lab. 232. 

Nepisiguit 65, 55. 

of Castors 219. 

Exploits 210. 

Ottawa 320. 

Petitcodiac 72. 

Philip, N. S. 80. 

RestigoucJie 69, 56. 

Saguenay 297, 233. 

St. Anne, P. Q. 286. 

St. Croix, N. B 33. 

St. John, Lab 232. 

St. Lawrence 246, 305 

St. Marguerite 305. 

St. Mary's, N. S. 133. 

St. Maurice 307. 
Riversdale, N. S 136. 
River, Tobique 54. 
Riviere a I'Ours 301. 

k Mars 302. 

du Loup 295, 252. 

Maheu 290. 

Quelle, P. Q. 252. 
Robbinston, Me. 33. 
Roberval, P. Q. 301. 



330 



INDEX. 



Robinson's Point 48. 
Rochette, N. B. 66. 
Rock, Perc6 242. 
Rockland, N. B. 73. 
Rockport 73. 
Rocky Bay,N. F. 210. 
Rocky Lake, N. S. 82. 
RolloBay, P. E. 1.182. 
Rosades, The 251. 
Rose Bay 119. 
Rose Blanche 215 
Rossignol Lake 130. 
Rossway, N. S. 116, 
Rothesay 22, 70. 
Rough "Waters 66. 
Round Harbor 211. 
Route des Pretres 290. 
Royalty June. 177. 
Rustico, P. E. I. 178. 

Sabbattee Lake 127. 

Sabimm Lake 124. 

Sable Id. 134. 

Sackville,N. B. 73. 

Sacred Ids. 220. 

Saddle Id. 227. 

Sagona Id. 214. 

Saguenay River 297. 

St. Agnes, P. Q. 295. 

St. Albans, P. Q. 281. 

St. Alexis 69, 302. 

St. Alphonse, P. Q. 302. 

St. Andrews, N. B. 33, 28. 

St. Andrews, P. E. I. 181. 

St. Andrew's Channel 165. 

St. Angel de Laval 307. 

St. Anne (Bout de rL)320. 

St. Anne de Beaupr6 285. 

St. Anne de la Perade 307. 

St. Anne de la Pocatiere 253. 

St. Anne des Monts 249. 

St. Anne du Nord 285. 

St. Anne du Saguenay 300. 

St. Anne Mts. 287. 

St. Anne's Bay 158. 

St. Anthony 221. 

St. Antoine de Tilly 306. 

St. Antoine Perou 292. 

St. Ars.-ne 296 

St. Augustin 306. 

St. Barbe 219. 

St. Basil 57. 

St. Bruno 319. 

St. Cecile du Bic 251. 

St. Charles Harbor 227. 

St. Colomb 280. 

St. Croix, P. Q. 306. 

St. Croix Cove 89. 

St. Croix River 33. 

St. Cuthbert 308. 

St. David's 178. 

St. Denis, P. Q. 252. 

St. Donat, P. Q- 250. 

St. Eleanors, P. E. 1. 179. 



St. Elizabeth, P. Q. 308. 
St. Esprit, C. B. 148. 
St. Etienne Bay 305. 
St. Fabien, P. Q. 2-51. 
St. Famille, P. Q. 289. 
St. Feliciti, P. Q. 249. 
St. Felix de Valois 308. 
St. Fereol, P. Q. 287. 
St. Fidele, P. Q. 295. 
St. Flavie 70, 250. 
St. Foy, P. Q. 281. 
St. Francis 58. 
St. Francis Harbor 225. 
St. Fran9ois 290. 
St. Fran(;ois du Lac 308. 
St. FrauQois Xavier 292. 
St. Fulgence 301. 
St. Genevieve 219. 
St. George, N. B. 32. 
St. George's Bay 217. 
St. George's Channel 165. 
St. Germain de Rim. 250. 
St. Iren^e 294. 
St. Ignace, Cap 253. 
St. Jaques 214. 
St. Jean Baptiste 318. 
St. Jean Deschaillons 307 
St. Jean d'Orleans 290. 
St. Jean-Port-Joli 253. 
St. Jerome, P. Q. 301. 
St. Joachim 287. 
St. John, N. B. 15. 

Cathedral 18. 

Custom-House 17. 

Gen. Pub. Hosp. 18. 

Harbor 15. 

King Square 16. 

Post-Office 17. 

St. Paul's 19. 

Trinity 17. 

Valley, The 19. 

Wiggins Asyl. 17. 

Y. M. C. A. 16. 
St. John, Lake 301. 
St. John's, N. F. 189. 

Anglican Cathedral 191. 

Colonial Building 192. 

Gov't House 192. 

Harbor 189. 

Narrows 191. 

Roman-Catholic Cathe- 
dral 192. 

Signal Hill 193. 
St. John's Bay 304. 
St. Jones Harbor 209. 
St. Joseph, N. B. 73. 
St. Joseph P. Q. 282. 
St. Laurent 290. 
St. Lawrence Bay 160. 
St. Lawrence River 246, 805 
St. Leonard, N. B. 56. 
St. Leon Springs 308. 
St. Lewis Sound 225. 
St. Louis Isle 304. 



St. Luce, P. Q. 250. 

St. Lunaire 221. 

St. Margaret River 233. 

St. Margaret's Bay 219. 

St. Margaret's Bay 126, 118. 

St. Marguerite River 305. 

St. Martin, P. Q. 318. 

St. Martin's, N. B. 71. 

St. Mary's, N. B. 45. 

St. Mary's, N. F. 213. 

St. Mary's Bay, N F. 213. 

St. Mary's Bav, N. S. 112. 

St. Mary's Bay , P. E. I. 181. 

St. Maurice River 307. 

St. Matthieu 251. 

St. Michael's Bay 225. 

St. Michel 254. 

St. Modeste 296. 

St Norbert308. 

St. Octave, P. Q. 249. 

St. Onesime, P. Q. 253. 

St. Pacome, P. Q. 253. 

St. Paschal 252. 

St. Patrick's Channel 167. 

St. Paul's Bay 292. 

St. Peter's, C. B. 146. 

St. Peter's, N. B. 65. 

St. Peter's, P. E. I. 182. 

St. Peter's Bay 227. 

St. Peter's Inlet 165. 

St Peter's Id. 174. 

St. Peter, Lake 307. 

St. Pierre 185, 214. 

St. Pierre d'Orleans 289. 

St. Pierre les Becquets 307. 

St. Placide, P. Q. 292. 

St. Roch-des-Aulnaies 253. 

St. Romuald, P. Q. 282. 

St. Rose de Lima 318. 

St. Shot's, N. F. 213. 

St. Simeon, 295. 

St. Simon 251. 

St. Stephen, N. B. 35. 

St. Sulpice, P. Q. 308. 

St. Therese 318. 

St. Thomas, P. Q. 253. 

St. Tite des Caps 287. 

St. Urbain 292. 

St. Valier, P. Q. 254. 

St. Vincent de Paul, 318. 

Salisbury, N. B. 72. 

Salmon Cove 201. 

Salmonier, N. F. 213. 

Salmon River 49, 71, 114. 

SaltMt.,C. B 167. 

Salutation Point 174. 

Sambro Id. 117. 

Sandwich Bay 225. 

Sandwich Head 227. 

Sandybeach 244. 

Sandy Cove 116, 112. 

Sandy Point 217. 

Sault a la Puce 284. 

Sault au Cochou 291. 



INDEX. 



331 



Sault au Recollet 818. 
Sault de Mouton 233. 
Scatari, C B. 150. 
Sc hoodie Lakes 35. 
Scotchtown, N B. 48. 
Scotch Village 93. 
Sculpia Point 214. 
Seal Cove, N. B 29. 
Seal Cove, N. F. 221. 
Seal Id. N. S. 124. 
Sea! Ids. 225. 
Sea-Trout Point 175. 
Sea-Wolfld. 169. 
Seeley's Mills 71. 
Segum-Sega Lakes 130. 
Seldom-come-by 210. 
Seven Ids., Lab. 232. 
Shag Id. 230. 
Shawanegan Falls 307. 
Shecatica Bay 230. 
Shediac 59, 60, 174. 
Sheet Harbor 132. 
Shelburne, N. S. 121. 
Shepody Bav 73. 
Shepodv Mt. 72. 
Sherbrooke 138, 132. 
Sherbrooke Lake 90. 
Shininiicas, N. S. 78. 
Ship Harbor 132. 
Shippigan Id. 63. 
Shoe Cove 211, 221. 
Shubenacadie 82. 
Sillery, P. Q. 280. 
Silver Falls, N. B. 22. 
Sir Charles Hamilton's 

Sound, N F. 203. 
Sissiboo Falls 112. 
Skye Glen 168. 
Smith's Sound 209. 
Smoky, Cape 159. 
Sorel, P. Q. 308- 
Souris, P. E I. 182. 
South Bay, N. B. 40. 
South Mt. 84. 
South Oromocto Lake 38. 
Southport, P. E. I. 177. 
South Quebec 282. 
S.W Head 29. 
S. W. Miramichi 62. 
Spaniard's Bay 207. 
Spear Harbor 225. 
Spectacle Id. 120. 
Spencer's Id 103, 104, 106 
Spencer AVood 280. 
Spiller Rocks 202. 
Split, Cape 104. . 
Split Rock, 31. 
Spotted Id. 225. 
Spout, The 197. 
Spragg's Point 42. 
Sprague's Cove 29. 
Springfield, N. B. 42. 
Springfield, N S R9. 
Springhill.N. B. 61. 



Spring Hill, N. S. 80. 

Spruce Id. 31 

Spruce Lake 24. 

Sprv Bay 132. 

Stanley, N. B 50. 

Statue Point 303. 

Steep Creek 143. 

Stellarton, N. S. 136. 

Stewiacke 82. 

Stone Pillar 253. 

Storniont, N. S. 133. 

Strait of Barra 164. 

Strait of Belle Isle 220, 227. 

Strait of Canso 142. 

Strait of Northumberland 

60, 174, 239. 
Strait Shore, N. F. 196. 
Sugar Id 50,51. 
Sugar-Loaf, N. B. 68. 
Sugar-Loaf, N. F. 200, 217 
Summerside, P E I. 178. 
Suuacadie, C. B. 164. 
Sussex Vale, N. B. 71. 
Swaliow-Tail Head 29. 
Sydney, C. B. 150. 
Sydney Mines 152. 

Tableau, Le 303. 
Table Head 227. 
Table Roulante 243. 
Tabusiniac 61, 62. 
Tadousac, P. Q 299. 
Tangier, N. S. 132 
Tannery West 319. 
Tantramar Marsh 79, 74. 
Tatamagouche, N. S. 81. 
Tea Hill, P. E. I. 177. 
Tedish, N. B. 59 
Temiscouata Lake 58,295. 
Temple Bay, Lab. 227. 
Tennant's Cove 42. 
Thoroughfare, The 48. 
Three Rivers 307. 
Three Tides, P. E. I. 174. 
Three Towers, N. F. 211. 
Thrumcap Shoal 93. 
Tickle Cove 203 
Tidnish, N. S. 78. 
Tignish, P. E. I 180. 
Tilt Cove 205, 211. 
Tilton Harbor 210. " 
Toad Cove 197. 
Tobique, N. B. 54. 
Tolt Peak 217. 
Tomkedgwick River 69. 
Topsail, N. F. 206- 
Torbay, N. F. 195, 200. 
Tor Bay, N. S. 134. 
Tormentine, Cape 174. 
Torrent Point 227. 
Tracadie, N B. 62. 
Tracadie, N. S. 139. 
Tracadie, P. E. I. 181. 
Tracadiegash 67, 239- 



Tracy's Lake 71. 
Tracy's Mills, 38. 
Traverse, Cape 174. 
Tremont, N. S. 89. 
Trepassey, N. F. 213, 
Trinity, N. F. 201. 
Trinity Bay 208, 201. 
Trinity, Cape 303. 
Trinity Cove 160. 
Trois Pistoles 251. 
Trois Rivieres 307. 
Trou St. Patrice 290. 
Trouty, N. F. 210. 
Truro, N. S. 81. 
Trvon. P. E I. 174. 
Tusket Ids. 125, 115. 
Tusket Lakes 115. 
Tweednogie, C. B. 148. 
Tweedside, N. B.38. 
Twillingate, N. F. 205. 

Ungava Bay 226- 
Upper Caraquette 66. 
Upper Gagetown 43. 
Upper Musquodoboit 82. 
Upper Queensbury 52. 
Upsalquitch River 69. 
Utopia, Lake 32. 

Van Buren, Me. 56. 
Vanceboro, Me. 38. 
Varennes, P. Q. 308. 
Veazie, Me. 89. 
Venison Id. 225. 
Vernon River 181. 
Victoria 53. 
Victoria Line 168. 
Victoria Mines 152. 
Virginia Water 195- 

Wallace Valley 80. 
Walrus Id. 231. 
Walton 106, 93, 
Wapitagun Har. 230. 
Wapskehegan River 54. 
Ward's Harbor 211. 
Washademoak Lake 47. 
Wash-shecootai 231 
Watagheistic Sound 230 
Watchabaktchkt 164. 
Watt June. 37. 
Waverley Mines 82. 
Waweig, N. B. 36. 
Welchpool,N B. 25. 
Wellington 179. 
Welsford, N. B. 38. 
Wentworth, N S. 80. 
West Bay, C. B. 165. 
Westchester, N. S. 80. 
Westfield, N. B. 41. 
West Isles 31. 
West Point 179. 
West Port, N. S. 117. 
West River 225. 



332 



INDEX. 



Weymouth, N. S. 112. 
Whale Cove 29. 
White Bay 221. 
White Haven 134. 
White Horse 31. 
White's Cove 49. 
Whycocomagh, C. B. 167. 
Wickham, 42, 47. 
Wlcklow, N. B. 53. 
Wiggins Cove 49. 



William Henry 308. 

Wilmot Springs 89. 
Wilson's Beach 25. 
Wilton Grove 210. 
Windsor, N. S. 91,101. 
Windsor June. 82, 93. 
Windsor Lake 395. 
Wine Harbor 133. 
Wiseman's Cove 221. 



Witless Bay, N. P. 197. 
Wolf River 231. 
Wolfville 107, 91. 
Wolves, The 25, 31. 
Wood Pillar 253. 
Woodstock 50, 37. 

Yarmouth, N. S. 114, 125. 
York Piiver 174. 



Index to Historical and Biographical Allusions. 



Acadian Exiles 108, 113, 131 D'Avaugour, Baron 246. 
Annapolis Royal, N S. 86. Dawson, Dr. J. W. 138. 



Anticosti, P. Q. 234 
Aukpaque, N. B. 46. 
Avalou, N. F. 198. 
Bathurst, N. B. 65. 
Bay Bulls, N. F. 197. 
Bay of Chaleur 65. 
Beaubassin and Beausejour 

78. 
Bic Island, P. Q. 250. 
Bras d'Or, C. B. 165. 
Br. beuf, Pere 266. 
Brest, Lab. 230. 
Campobello Id., N. B. 26. 
Canada, Lower 235. 
Canada, the name of 245. 
Canso, N. S. 144. 
Cape Breton 149. 
Cape Breton (old Province) 

141. 
Cape Broyle, N. F. 197. 
Cape Ghatte, P. Q. 249. 
Cape Despair, P. Q. 241. 
Cape d'Or, N. S. 104. 
Cape Sable, N. S. 123. 
Cape Sambro, N. S. 118. 
Caraquette, N. B. 66. 
Carbonear, N. F. 208. 
Cartier's Voyages 193, 204, 

245, 272, 293. 
Caughnawaga, P. Q. 319. 
Cham plain, Samuel de 273. 
Charlottetown, P. E. 1. 176. 
Chateau, Lab. 227. 
Chateau Bigot, P. Q. 280- 
Chateau Richer, P. Q 284. 
Chaumonot, Pere 279. 
Chezzetcook, N. S. 181. 
Chicoutimi, P. Q. .300. 
Clare Settlements, N. S. 113. 
Conception Bay, N. F. 206. 
Constitution and Guerriere 

200. 



Dead Islands, N. F. 216. 

|Eastport, Me. 27. 

! Esquimaux, the 226. 

iFerryland, N. F. 198. 

Fort La Hlvc, N. S. 119. 

Forts Lawrence and Cum- 
berland 78. 

FortMcductic, N. B. 52. 

Fredericton, N. B. 46. 

Fronteuac, Count de 262, 
273. 

Gaspe, P. Q 244. 

Gilbert, Sir Humphrey 135, 
193. 

Glooscap 19, 41, 102, 108, 
120, 137, 144. 

Goat Island, N. S. 85. 

Grand Banks 199. 

Grand Lake, N. B. 48. 

Grand Manan 28. 

Grand Pre, N. S. 108. 

Guysborough, N. S. 134. 

Haliburton, Judge 92. 

Halifax, N. S. 99. 

Huron Indians 279, 289. 

Indian Lorette 279. 

Ingonish,C. B. 159. 

Esle aux Coudres 293. 

Isle of Orleans 288. 

Jemseg, N. B. 42. 

Jesuits, the 261, 266, 275, 
281. 

King's College 92. 

Labrador 222, 223. 

Lachine, P. Q. 319. 

Lake St. John, P. Q. 301. 

Lake Utopia, N. B. 32. 

Liverpool, N. S. 120. 

Lord's-Day Gale 170, 153, 
185. 

Louisbourg, C. B. 154, 149. 

Lunenbm-g, N. S. 118. 

Madawaska, N. B. 57. 



Cote de Beaupro 276. 
D'Aulnay and La Tour 19, Magdalen Islands 184. 
87, 122. iMahone Bay, N. S. 128. 



Maugerville, N. B. 43. 
Micmac Indians 68, 147, 163, 

244. 
Mingan Ids., Lab. 231. 
Miramichi District 63. 
Miscould., N. B. 64. 
Montreal, P. Q. 317. 
Moravian Missions 226. 
Murray Bay, P. Q. 295. 
New Brunswick 14. 
Newfoundland 187 , 201, 202, 

204, 222. 
Norsemen, the 123, 204, 245. 
Nova Scotia 76. 
Oromocto, N B. 43- 
Passamoquoddy Bay 27. 
Penobscot Indians 39. 
PercJ, P. Q. 243. 
Pictou, N. S. 137. 
Placentia, N. P. 212. 
Pleasant Point, Me. 27. 
Port Latour, N. S. 122. 
Port Mouton, N S. 121. 
Prince Edward Island 172. 
Quebec 272. 
Red Indians 210, 218. 
Restigouche 69. 
Richibucto Indians 60. 
Riviere du Loup 296. 
Riviere Ouelle 252. 
Robervals, the 301. 
Robin & Co. 240. 
Sable Island 135. 
Saguenay River 298. 
St. Anne de Peaupr6 285. 
St. Anne's Bay, C. B 158. 
St. Augustin, P. Q. 306. 
St. Croix Island 34. 
St. Joachim, P. Q. 287. 
St. John, N. B. 19. 
St. John River 40. 
St. John's, N. F. 193. 
St. Mary's Bay 112. 
St. Paul's Bay 292. 
St. Paul's Island 160. 
St. Peter's, C. B.146. 
St. Pierre, Miq. lS'6. 



INDEX. 



333 



Scottish Migration 164. 

Sillery,P. Q-281. 
Sorel, P. Q. 308. 
Strait of Belle Isle 220. 
Sydney, C. B. 151. 
Sydney Coal-Mines 153. 



Tadousac, P. Q. 298, 299. 
Tilbury, Wreck of the 148. 
Trepassey, N. F 213 
Trois Pistoles, P. Q. 251. 
Truro, N. S. 81. 
Ursulines of Quebec 265. 



Walker's Expedition 233, 

241. 
Wallis, Admiral 100. 
Williams, Gen. 100. 
Windsor, N S. 92. 
Yarmouth, N. S. 114. 



Index to Quotations. 



Alexander, Sir J. E. 38, 58. 

Baillie, T. 43. 

Ballantyne, R. M. 292. 

Beecher, Henry Ward 258. 

Boucher 292. 

Bouchette, R. 247, 278. 

Boug vinville 238. 

Bonnycastle, Sir R. 67, 195, 218. 

Brown, Richard 141, 154, 155, 157, 159, 

166, 233. 
Buies, Arthur 240, 243, 244, 248, 250. 
Cartier, Jacques 204, 246, 288, 298. 
Champlain 124 , 273 , 295 . 
Charlevoix 30, 77, 150, 158, 184, 204, 233, 

238,247,289,293,299,300. 
Cozzens, F. S. 92, 96, 100, 111, 131, 140, 

142, 147, 166. 
Cremazie. 0.247. 
Dawson, J. W. 102, 142. 
Be Costa, B.F. 28, 29, 30. 
De Mille, Prof 105. 

Dilke, Sir Charles 258, 259. 

Dufferin, Lord 237- 

Ferland, Abb6 232, 248, 283. 

Fiset. L. J. C. 247. 

Gesner, Dr. A. B. 32, 36, 43, 56. 

Gilpin, Dr. 134. 

Gordon, Hon. Arthur 51, 52, 53, 55, 56, 
62, 67. 

Grey 247. 

Haliburton, Judge 90, 91, 109, 111, 113. 

Hallock, Charles 67, 78, 103, 126, 12 < ,128, 
129, 130, 169, 170, 225, 227, 240, 301. 

Hamilton, 88. 

Hardy.Capt. 129,130, 131. 

Hawkins's Quehec. 256, 259, 261, 2(2. 

Heriot, George 279, 284. 

Hind, Prof. 232,233. ^^^ „„^ 

Howells, W. D. 260, 268, 276, 278, 280, 
281,302,303. 

Imray-s Sailing i)zrecfi'or7573, 158,169,248. 

Johnston,_Prof. J. F. W. 23, 31, 45, 5(, 

JukesVprdf. J. B. 189, 195, 196, 216, 218. 

Kalm 305. 

Kirke, Henry 245. 

La Hontan, Baron 87, 212, 305. 

Lalemant, Pere 249. 



Lanman, Charles 68. 

Le Moine, J. M. 258, 264, 280, 294. 

Lescarbot, M. 34, 85, 86, 201. 

London Times 257, 298, 304. 

Longfellow, H. W. 109, 110, 111, 113. 

Lowell, R. T. S. 187. 

McCrea, Lt.-Col. 193, 195, 197. 

Marmier, X. 257. 

Marshall, C. 278, 286. 

Martin, M. 154. 

M'Gregor, John 19, 42, 117, 128, 166. 

Moore, Tom 184. 320. 

Moorson, Capt. 116, 118, 122. 

Murdoch, B. 75, 109. 122, 155. 156. 

Noble, Rev. L. L. 30, 91, 103, 141, 160, 

189, 193, 196, 204, 219, 221, 223, 224, 

228. 
Novus Orbis 125. „ „ „„, 

Parkman, Francis 237, 245, 262, 266, 2(6, 

279, 285, 288. 
Perley, M. H. 182. 
Rameau. M. 238, 277. 
Roosevelt, R. B. 66. 
Routhier, A. B. 252. 
Sagas of Iceland 123, 204. 
Sand, Maurice 186, 256. 
Scott, G. C. 8, 36, 200. 
Shirley, Gov. 274. 
Silliman, Prof 238, 257, 267, 277. 
Stedmau. R. H. 170. 
Strauss, 231 

Sutherland, Rev. George 178, 180. 
Tach»5 251, 299. 
Taylor's Canadian Handbook 242, 248, 

251 282 319 
Taylor, 'Bayard 277, 291, 292, 298, 297, 

Thoreau, H. D. 237, 238, 246, 257, 267, 
270, 277, 283, 284, 287, 309, 312. 

Trudelle 292. 

Voltaire 274. 

Warburton, Eliot 190, 195, 234, 256. 

Warner, Charles Dudley, 20, 25, 26, 84, 
86, 91, 92, 95, 107, 138, 140, 158, 162, 
165, 166, 167, 168, 175, 176, 179. 

Whitburne, Capt 187. 

White, John, 278, 298, 303. 

Whittier, John G. 21, 65, 209, 224, 230. 



334 



INDEX. 



Index to Railways and Steamboat Lines. 



European and North American 37. 

Grand Trunk 305. 

Intercolonial 70, 78. 

New Brunswick 49. 

New Brunswick and Canada 33. 



Basin of Minas 101. 
Bras d'Or, 161. 
Conception Bay (N. F.) 206. 
Easfcport 25. 
Grand Lake 48. 
Halifax to Sydney 148. 
Labrador 224. 
Magdalen Islands 183. 
Moisic River (Labrador) 229. 
Newfoundland 188, 148. 
Northern Coastal (N. F.) 200. 
North Shore (N. B.)60. 



Pictou Branch 136. 

Prince Edward Island 177, 180, 182. 

Quebec and Gosford 255. 

Shediac Branch 59. 

Windsor and Annapolis 83. 



Passamaquoddy Bay 25, 30. 
Prince Edward Island 174, 175. 
Quebec and Gulf Ports 238, 60. 
Quebec to Cacouna 291. 
Richelieu (St. Lawrence) 305. 
Saguonay River 291, 297. 
St. John River 39, 51, 53. 
St. Pierre (Miq.) 185. 
Union (St. Lawrence) 305. 
Washademoak Lake 47. 
Western Outports 213. 
Yarmouth and HaUfax 117. 



Authorities Consulted in the Preparation of this Volume. 

The Editor acknowledges his obligations to the officers of the Boston Athenasum, 
the Parliament Library at Halifax, the Colonial Libraiy at Charlottctown, the Me- 
chanics' Institute at St. John, and the libraries of Parliament, of the Laval Uni- 
versity, of the Institut Canadien, and of the Literary and Historical Society, of 
Quebec. 

New Brunswick, with Notes for Emigrants ; by Abraham Gesner,M. D. (1847.) 

Geology of New Brunswick, etc. ; by Dr. Gcsner. 

New Brunswick and its Scenery ; by Jno. R. Hamilton. (St. .Tohn, 1874.) 

Account of New Brunswick ; by Thomas Baillie. (London, 1832.) 

Handbook for Emigrants to New Brunswick ; by M. H. Perley. (St. John, 1854.) 

Mount Desert ; by B. F. De Costa. (New York.) 

History of New Brunswick ; by Cooney. 

Nouveau Brunswick ; by E. Regnault* (Paris.) 

History of Maine ; by James Sullivan, LL. D. (1795.) 
History of Maine ; by W. D. Williamson. (2 vols. ; 1839.) 
Transactions of the Maine Historical Society. 

Letters from Nova Scotia ; by Captain Moorson. (London, 1830.) 

Travels in Nova Scotia and New Brunswick ; by J. S. Buckingham, M. P. 

Forest Life in Acadie; by Capt. Campbell Hardy. (London.) 

The Fishing Tourist ; by Charles Hallock. (New York, 1873.) 

Acadi I ; or A Month among the Bluenoses ; by Frederick S. Cozzens. (New York, 

1859.) 
The Neutral French ; a Story of Nova Scotia. 
The Lily and the Cross ; by Prof. De Mille. 
The Boys of Grand Pre School ; by Prof. De Mille. 
The Clock-Maker ; by Judge T. C. Haliburton. 
The Old Judge ; by Judge T. C. Hahburton. 

The Pre-Columbian Discovery of America; by B. F. De Costa. (New York.) 
Acadian Geology ; by J. W. Dawson, LL. D., F. R. S. (Halifax. 1855.) 
On the Mineralogy and Geology of Nova Scotia ; by Dr. A. Gesner. 
An Historical and Statistical Account of Nova Scotia ; by T. C. Haliburton, D. C. L., 

M. P. (2 vols. ; Hahfax, 1829) 
History of Nova Scotia, or Acadie ; by Beamish Murdoch, Q. C. (3 vols. ; Halifax, 

1865.) 
A General Description of Nova Scotia. (Hahfax, 1823.) 
Account of the Present State of Nova Scotia. (Edinburgh, 1786.) 



INDEX, 335 

A History of the Island of Cape Breton ; by Richard Brown, F. G. S., F. R. Q. S. 

(London, 1869.) 
Importance and Advantages of Cape Breton ; by Wm. Bollan. (London, 1746.) 
Letters on Cape Breton ; by Thomas Pichou. (London, 1760.) 
Baddeck, and that Sort of Thing ; by Ciiarles Dudley Warner. (Boston, 1874.) 

Prince Edward Island ; by Rev. George Sutherland. (Charlottetown, 1861.) 
Progress and Prospects of Prince Edward Island ; by C B. Bagster. (Charlottetown, 

1861.) 
Travels in Prince Edward Island ; by Walter Johnstone. (Edinburgh, 1824.) 

A Concise History of Newfoundland ; by F. R. Page. (London, I860.) 
History of the Government of Newfoundland ; by Chief Justice John Reeve. (Lon- 
don. 1793.) 
Catechism of the Hi.^tory of Newfoundland ; by W. C, St. John, (Boston, 1855.) 
Pedley's History of Newfoundland. 
Anspach's History of Newfoundland. 

Newfoundland in 1842 ; by Sir R H. Bonnycastle. |2 vols. ; London, 1842.) 
Voyage of H. M. S. Rosamond; by Lieut. Chappell, R. N. (London, 1818.) 
Lost amid the Fogs; by Lieut.-Col. McCrea, Royal Artillery. (London, 1869.) 
The New Priest of Conception Bay ; by R. T. S. LowelL (Boston, 1838. ) 
Excursions in and about Newfoundland by Prof. J. B. Jukes. (2 vols. ; London, 

1842.) 
Geolo2;ical Survey of Newfoundland for 1873 ; by Alex. Murray, F. G. S. (St. John's, 

1874.) 
After Icebergs with a Painter ; by Rev. L. L. Noble. (New York, 1860.) 

A Voyage to Labrador ; by L'Abbe Ferland. (Quebec.) 

Notes on the Coast of Labrador ; by Robertson. (Quebec.) 

Explorations in the Interior of the Labrador Peninsula ; by Prof. H. Y. Hind, F. R. 

G. S. (2 vols. ; London. 1863.) 
Sixteen Years' Residence on the Coast of Labrador ; by George Cartwright. (3 vols. ; 

Newark, 1792.) 
A Summer Cruise to Labrador ; by Charles Hallock. In Harper's Magazine, Vol. 

XXII. 

History and General Description of New France ; by Father P. F. X. Charlevoix. (6 

vols. ; in Shea's translation ; New York, 1872.) 
Histoire de la Nouvelle France ; by Marc Lescarbot, (1609 ; Paris, 1866 ; 3 vols.) 
Cours d'Histoire du Canada ; by L'Abb<5 Ferland. 
Histoire de la Colonic Francaise en Canada ; by M. Faillon. (3 vols. ; Ville-Marie [Mon- 

treall, 1865-6). 
History of Canada; by F. X. Gameau. (Bell's translation ; Montreal, 1866.) 
History of Canada ; by John MacMullen. (Brockville, 1868.) 
Novus Orbis ; by Johannes de Laet. (Leyden, 1633.) 
Les Relations des Jesuits. 

Lower Canada; by Joseph Bouchette. (London, 1815.) 

British Dominions in North America ; by Joseph Bouchette. (2 vols. ; London, 1832.) 
British America ; by John M'Gregor. "(2 vols. ; London, 1832.) 
La France aux Colonies ; by M Rameau. (Paris, 1859.) 
Le Canada an Point de Vue Economique ; by Louis Strauss. (Paris, 1867.) 
Hochelaga, or England in the New World ; by Eliot Warburton. (2 vols. ; New York, 

1846.) 
The Conqviest of Canada; by Eliot Warburton. (2 vols. ; London, 1849.) 
The First Euglish Conquest of Canada ; by Henry Kirke. (London, 1871.) 
The Pioneers of France in the New World ; by Francis Parkman. (Boston, 1865.) 
The .Tesuits of North America ; by Francis Parkman. 
The Old Regime in Canada ; by Francis Parkman. (Boston, 1874.) 
Histoire du Canada; by Gabriel Sagard. (4 vols ; Paris, 1866 ) 
Sketches of Celebrated Canadians ; by Henry J. Morgan. (Montreal, 1865.) ' 
Hawkins's New Picture of Quebec. (Quebec, 1834.) 
Reminiscences of Quebec. (Quebec, 1858.) 

Decouverte du Tombeau de Champlain ; by Laverdiere and Casgrain. (Quebec, 1866.) 
Maple Leaves ; by J. M. Le Moine. (Quebec.) 



336 INDEX. 

Letters sur I'Amerique ; by X. Marmier. (Paris.) 

Account of a Journey between Hartford and Quebec ; by Prof. B. Silliman. (18^.) 

Taylor's Canadian Handbook. (Montreal.) 

English America; by S. P. Day. (2 vols ; London, 1864.) 

Three Years in Canada ; by John MacTaggart. (2 vols. ; London, 1829.) 

Western Wanderings; by W. H. G. Kingston. (2 vols. ; London, 1856.) 

Sketches of Lower Canada ; by Joseph Sanson. (New York, 1817.) 

The Canadian Dominion ; by Charles Marshall. (London, 1871.) 

Five Years' Residence in the Canadas ; by E. A. Talbot. (2 vols. ; London, 1824.) 

Sketches from America ; by John White. (London, 1870.) 

Travels through the Canadas ; by George Heriot. (London, 1807.) 

British Possessions ; by M. Smith. (Baltimore, 1814.) 

Adventures in the Wilds of America ; by Charles Lanman. (2 vols. ; Philadelphia, 

1856.) 
Pine-Forests ; by Lieut -Col. Sleigh. (London, 1853.) 
The travels of Hall, Lyell, Trollope, Dickens, Johnston, etc. 
BrefRecitet Succincte Narration de la Navigation faite en MDXXXV. et MDXXXVI. 

par le Capitaine Jacques Cartier. (Paris, 1863 ) 
The Principal Navigations, Voyages, etc., of the English Nation ; by Richard Hak- 

luyt. (1589-1600.) 
Les Vovages k la Nouvelle France, etc. ; by Samuel de Champlain. (1632 ; Paris, 

1830.) 
Relation dn Voyage au Port Royal ; by M. Diereville. (Amsterdam, 1710.) 
Nouveaux Voyages, etc. ; by the Baron La Hontan. (1703 ; London, 1735 ) 
Relation Originale du Voyage de Jacques Cartier. (Paris, 1867.) 
Memoires, Relations, et Voyages de D6couverte au Canada. (Quebec, 1838.) 
Voyage to Canada ; by Father Charlevoix. (London, 1763 ) 
Six Mille Lieues a Toute Vapeur ; by Maurice Sand. (Paris.) 
Greater Britain ; by Sir Charles Dilke. 
The Hudson's Bay Company ; by R. M. Ballantyne. 
Imray's Sniling Directions. (London ) 

Journal of a Voyage to the Const of Gasp; ; by L'Abbe Ferland. (Quebec.) 
The Lower St. Lawrence ; by Dr. W. J. Anderson. (Quebec, 1872.) 
Le Chercheur de Tresors ; by Ph. Aubert de Gasp6 fils. (Quebec, 1863.) 
Chroniques Humeurs et Caprices ; by Arthur Buies. (Quebec, 1873 ) 
Les Anciens Canadiens ; by Philippe Aubert de Ga?pe. (Quebec, 1864.) 
L'Album du Touriste ; by J. M. Le Moine. (Quebec, 1872.) 
The Blockade of Quebec ; by Dr. W. J. Anderson. (Quebec, 1872.) 
Journal of the Siege of Quebec ; by Gen. James Murray. (Quebec, 1871.) 
The Expedition against Quebec ; by " A Volunteer." (Quebec, 1872.) 
Chdteau Bigot ; by J. M. Le Moine. (Quebec, 1874.) 
A Chance Acquaintance; by W. D. Howells. (Boston, 1873.) 
A Yankee in Canada; by Henry D. Thoreau. (Boston, 1862.) 
La Litt6rature Canadienne. (2 vols. ; Quebec, 1863-4.) 
Soirees Canadiennes. (2 vols ; Quebec, 1861.) 
Travels in New Brunswick; by Hon. Arthur Gordon. (In Vacation Tourists for 

1862-3, London.) 
Field and Forest Rambles ; by A. Leith Adams. (London, 1873.) 
L'Acadie, or Seven Years' Explorations in British North America ; by Sir James 

E.Alexander. (2 vols. ; London, 1849.) 
Game-Fish of the North and the British Provinces ; by R. B. Roosevelt. (New 

York, 1865 ) 
Fishing in American Waters ; by Genio C Scott. (New York.) 
The American Angler's Guide; by Norris. (New York.) 

Fish and Fishing ; by H. V/. Herbert (" Frank Forrester "). (New York, 1850.) 
The Fishing Tourist ; by Charles Hallock. (New York, 1873.) 
Les Muses de la Nouvelle France ; by Marc Lescarbot. (Paris, 1609.) 
Evangeline, a Tale of Acadie ; by Henry W. Longfellow. (Boston, 1847.) 
The Poetical Works of John G. Whittier. (Boston.) 
The St. Lawrence and the Saguenay ; by Charles Sangster (Kingston. ) 
Essais Poetiques ; by Leon Pamphile Le May. (Quebec, 1865.) 
Mes Loisirs ; by Louis Honors Frechette. (Quebec.) 
The Poetical Works of 0. Cremazie, J. Lenoir, and L. J. 0. Fiset. (Quebec.) 



s^aammmamKaaBammBmiim 



XQ unesLnui oirutjis, i uiitiucijjma , 
[n.Camp Street, New Orleans, La.; 
adi 



THE STEAMERS OF THE ST. LAWRENCE i STEAM NAVIGATION CO., make FOM MPS WEEKLY 
FROM QUEBEC, OVER THE ROUTE TRACED ON THIS MAP. 




:foi2 I^Tn^TE^ 



:CEI3 I3SrE^O:ES2yE^ii-'T'I03>T .<S^I=I=Ij-^- TO 

LEVE & ALDEN, TOURIST AGENTS, 207 Broadway & 5 Union Sqn-^^^ (Brentano's), New York; 296 Washington Street, Boston; N. E. corner Broad & Chestnut Streets, Philadelphia; 
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I 



ALPHABETICAL INDEX TO ADVERTISEMENTS. 

♦ 

PAGR 

BOSTON AND MAINE RAILROAD . . . . . facing titlepaga 
BOSTON, HALIFAX, AND PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND STEAM- 
SHIP LINE . 9 

COOK «& SON, THOMAS . . . o 2 

EASTERN RAILROAD front cover lining 

EASTERN SEA-COAST ROUTE 3 

INTERNATIONAL STEAMSHIP COMPANY 3 

JAMES R. OSGOOD c<& CO back cover lining 

LEVE & ALDEN 10 

MYRTLE HOUSE S 

OSGOOD'S AMERICAN GUIDE-BOOKS 4 

OSGOOD'S COMPLETE POCKET-GUIDE TO EUROPE ... 8 

PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND STEAMSHIP COMPANY ... 6 

QUEBEC STEAMSHIP COMPANY . 4 

ST. JOHN AND MAINE RAILWAY. . . .... . .5 

ST. LOUIS HOTEL .... 7 

TRAVEL, NEW BOOKS OP back cover Uning 



QUEBEC STEAMSHIP COMPANY. 

JBermuda, "West India and St. ILawrence Steamship "Lines* 
STEAMERS LEAVE NEW YORK FROM PIER 47, NORTH RIVER, 

F-oPL bepi:m:xjd^\. 

Every Alternate Thursday at 3 P. M. In April, May and Jnne Every Thursday. 

FOR ST. Klffi, ANTliiUA. DMiNICA, MAETINKlUE, ST. LUCIA, BARBADOS 

AND TRINIDAD EVERY SEVENTEEN DAYS. 

Connections by Steamer with the other West India Islands, Demerara and 

Venezuela. 
f During the Season of Navigation Steamers leave Montreal and Quehea 

FOR FATHER POINT, METIS, GASPE, PERCE, 

SUMMERSIDE and CHARLOTTETOWN, P. E. I , and PICTOU, N. S. 

Connecting with Steamers and Eailroads for all parts of 

The BRITISH PROVINCES and UNITED STATES. 

At Pictou with Railway for HALiIFAX, thence by Cromwell Line of 

Steamers for New York or Newfoundland. 

TICKETS FOR SALE at all the Principal Ticket Offices in the United 
States and Canada ; at Leve & Aldek's Offices, 207 Broadway, N. Y. ; Cor. 
Broad and Chestnut Sts., Philadelphia; 15 State St., Boston; Chicago and 
Montreal. 

A. E, Outerbridge & Co., Agents, W. Moore, Manager, 

5! Broadway, New York. 
AMERICAN GUIDE-BOOKS. 

"These books contain everything which the traveller wants to know. In precisely the shape he 
wants to have it." — Boston Journal. 

The best companions for all travellers who wish to get the largest possible amount of 
information and pleasure out of a summer journey. 

Arranged on the celebrated Baedeker Plan, indorsed by all European travellers. 
I The History, Poetry, and Legends of each locality, tersely and clearly given. 

Scores of Maps, City Plans, and Panoramas. 

Giving Prices and Locations of all Hotels and Boarding-Houses, Summer-Resorts, 
and Routes. 

NEW ENGLAND. MARITIME PROVINCES. 

MIDDLE STATES. WHITE MOUNTAINS. 

400 to 500 pages each. Bound in flexible red cloth. Scores of maps. $1.50 each. 

" We have not only read these books with delight and studied them with profit in 
the seclusion of the library, but we have travelled with them and by them on the sea 
and land. At every point they meet you with just the facts you wish to know ; they 
repeat to you the old legend associated with this^locality ; they tell vou the story of the 
battle fought there ; they hum to you the song, or murmur the lines in which some poet 
has enshrined events by which a spot has become memorable. A condensed literature 
of great variety and richness is stored up within their pages. They are simply indispen- 
sable to tourists in the regions named, and those who have sallied forth without them 
have omitted the really most important part of their equipment." — Literary World. 

JAMES R. OSGOOD & CO.. BOSTON. 



St. John and Maine Railway. 

iisrTEii:N*-AuTiojsr.A.i:^ i^oxjte. 

THE ONLY 

Alili RAIL ICiENI! 

Between tlie 

MARITIME PROVIISrCES 

And the 

UNITED STATES, 

Forming, with its Connections, the Most Direct Route between the 

EASTERN AND SOUTHERN STATES 

And 

ST. JOHN, BALIFAX, AND PRINCE EDWARD ISLAND. 

Connecting: at St. John with the Intercolonial Railw^ay and Bay 
of Fundy Steamers. Also with Steamers of the Kiver St. John for 
Fredericton. 

Two Trains Daily between St. John and Boston. 

Commencing June 18th. 1883, a Fast Express Train, 

During the Summer Season, 

will leave St. John at 7 a. m. and arrire in Boston the same day 
at 10 p. M., in time to connect with the train for New York, and a 
similar train will leave Boston at 12.30 p. m., arriving at St. John at 
6.30 A. M. the following day. 

Parlor Cars with Horton Reclining Chairs will be run through on 
these trains. 

Pullman Sleeping Cars on night trains. 

J, MUKRAT KAY, M, 1>. McLEOJ), 

Manager. Supt. 



Steamers to Prince Edward Island, 

ST. LAWRENCE, PRINCESS OF WALES, 

CAPT. EVANS, CAPT. CAMERON, 

Make Daily Trips between 

SXJMMERSIDE, I>,E.I., 

And 

POINT DU CHENE, NEW BRUNSWICK, 

Connecting at both places with Government Railways ; 

At tlie fbrmei* for CliarlottetoAvii and 

THE LATTER FOM ST, JOHN 

And all places in Canada and the United States. 

Passengers leave St John at 8 A. m. and arrive at Charlottetown at 8 p. M. Leave 
Charlottetown at 6.30 A. M. and arrive at St. John at 7.30 P. M. 

Also 
Leave Charlottetown for Pictou on Monday, Wednesday, Thursday, and Saturday, 
connecting there with Railway to Halifax or Cape Breton ; returning from Pictou on 
arrival of Morning Train from Halifax on Monday, Wednesday, Friday, and Saturday. 

For further information apply to 

F. W. HALES, 

Secretary P. E. I. Steatn Navigation Co. 
Charlottetown. 

SIXTH THOUSAND NOW READY. 

THE COKRESPONDETSICE OF THOMAS CARI.YI.E AND RALPH 

WALDO EMERSON: 1834 TO 1873. 

With fine portraits]of Carlyle and Emerson, etched for this work. Edited by Charles 
Eliot Norton.' 2 vols. 12mo, gilt top, rough edges, $4.00 ; half calf, 3P8.00 ; half 
morocco, gilt top, uncut edges, $8 00. 

The International Review: "It may well be doubted whether the Anglo-Saxon 
world will have submitted to it for many a year to come such a literary treasure as is 
here presented." 

The Pall Mall Gazette : " It is pleasant to have this chapter added to the record of 
famous literary friendships." 

The Dial: " We shall have no passages from the lives of Carlyle and Emerson more 
precious." 

St. James''s Budget : "A more interesting and suggestive collection of letters has not 
been given to the world since the appearance of the correspondence of Goethe and 
Schiller," 

Lippincott's Magazine : " Their interest is incontestible and unbroken." 

The AthencBum (London) : " These two volumes shed a beautiful light upon a friend- 
ship as warm as it was singular. . . . They abound in passages of rare beauty. " 

The Atlantic Monthly : "The memory of a fine friendship has been added to the spir^ 
itual inheritance of the world." 

George Wh^liam Curtis, in Harper'' s Magazine : " None can read the record without 
receiving a blessing from its refinement and invigoration." 

The Independent: "The correspondence is so beautiful in itself and so rich in all ways 
as to relieve us even from the temptation to say that there is no other like it in the 
world." 

The Westminster Review : " A beautiful supplement and key to the lives and writ- 
ings of the authors ; a book not to be skimmed, but read again and again" 

The British Quarterly Review : "A very attractive book. We trust it will be widely 
read, as it deserves to be. " 

JAMES R. OSGOOD & CO., BOSTON. 




ST. ImOUIS HOTULi^ 

St> Louis street^ 
QUEBEC. 

This Hotel, which is unrivalled for Size, Style, and Locality in Quebec, 
is open throughout the year for Pleasure and Business Travel. It is eligibly 
situated in the immediate vicinity of the most delightful and fashionable 
promenades, the Governor's Garden, the Citadel, the Esplanade, the Place 
d'Armes, and Durham and Dufferiii Terrace, which furnish the splendid 
views and magnificent scenery for which Quebec is so celebrated, and 
which are unsurpassed in any part of the world. 

The proprietors, in returning thanks for the very liberal patronage they 
have hitherto enjoj^ed, inform the public that the St. Louis Hotel has been 
thoroughly renovated and embellished, and can now accommodate aboiit 
500 visitors, and assure them that nothing will be wanting on their part that 
will conduce to the comfort and enjojonent of their guests. 

The Russell Hotel Company, 

WILLIS BUS SELL, President. 



TIE "MfBfIS 10 V 




SEASON 1883. 



The Proprietor offers the Public a Summer Resort second to none in the 
Maritime Provinces, including all the natural attractions of a first-class 
watering-place, combined with the seclusion of a charming sea-side country 
home. 

Boating, Yachting, Bathing, Sea and River Fishing, 

can be had in the immediate vicinity of the house. 

The House itself is situated in the centre of magnificent grounds facing the 
sea, containing upwards of three acres of cherry, apple, and pear orchards, 
besides small fruits. There being such a great quantity of fruit, the cherry- 
trees are entirely at the service of the guests of the house. 

For terms, &c., address J. C. MOKKISON, Proprietor. 

OSGOOD'S 

Complete Pocket-Guide to Europe. 

REVISED AND ENI.AKGED EDITION OF 1883. 

1vol. 32mo. With Six Maps. $1.50. 



This book describes the most attractive routes in Great Britain, France, 
Germany, Holland, Belgium, Switzerland, Austria, Italy, Portugal, Spain, 
Sweden, Norway, and Russia. It includes fuller and better arranged details of 
routes, points, and objects of interest, fares, hotels. Currency, &c , than arc 
given in many guide-books of far greater proportions. The volume contains 
upwards of 500 pages of matter, but is only about three quarters of an inch in 
thickness. 

" Infinite riches in a little room." — New York Mail and Express. 
" Marvellously compact." — Philadelphia Press. 

" A gem of compiehensiveness, compactness, and good taste." — New York Tribune. 
" A perfect triumph in the way of condensation." — iT. Y. Commercial Advertiser. 
" Very satisfactory." — ZtYer-arz/ World. 

" A bright companion for the wayfafer who desires to see much and read little." — 
New York Home Journal. 



JAMES R. OSGOOD & CO., Boston. 



A CHEAP AND DELIGHTFUL 

SUMMER TRIP. 

Boston, Halifax, and Prince Edward Island 
Steamship Line. 

Boston to Charlottetown, P. E. I., 

STOPPING AT 

Halifax, Port Hawkesbury, C. B., & Pictou, N. S. 

The favbrite sea-going Steamships 

CARROLL (1,400 tons) and WORCESTER (1,400 tons) 

Capt. GEORGE H. BROWN, Capt. J. W. BLANKINSHIP, 

liCave 

Nickerson s Wharf, Congress St., Boston, 

For the above Ports, 

EVEEY SATURDAY, AT 12 O'CLOCK. 

These steamers connect with the NOVA SCOTIA railways and coast-lines at 
Halifax and Pictou, giving opportunities to visit the chief attractions of the Maritime 
Provinces. At Port Hawkesbury they connect with stages for all parts of the Island of 
CAPE BRETON, and for the renowned and beautiful BRAS D'OR IrAKES. 
From Charlottetown the tourist can visit any part of Prince Edward Island, by 
the trains of the new Government Railway. 

The Steamships of this Line have 

UNSURPASSED ACCOMMODATIONS 
FOR PASSENGERS. 

For tickets and further information, apply to 

WM. H. RING, or A. De W. SAMPSON, 

Nickerson's Wharf, Congress St. 801 Washington St. 



LEVE & ALDEN. 



< ^•^ » 



u^lvIERIO^lSr TOXJR,S. 



< *■* t 



Tourist tickets for individual travellers issued to all 

SUMMER AND WINTER RESORTS 

In America, embracing the 

MARITIME PROVINCES, 

SAGUENAY RIVER, 
QUEBEC, 

MONTREAL, 
WHITE MOUNTAINS, 

RANGELEY LAKES, 
MOUNT DESERT, 

THOUSAND ISLANDS, 
NIAGARA FALLS, &c., &c., 

By any known route and at 

Reductions from Ordinary Rates. 

Messrs. Levb & Alden are the General Agents for many first-class 
lines, and in addition issue their own tickets over a large number of 
railway and steamship routes, embracing the leading resorts and 
picturesque channels of travel which tourists wish to visit. 

The American Tourist Gazette, a handsome illustrated quarto 
monthly, may be had upon receipt of postage, by application in per- 
son, or by mail, at any of the Leve & Alden offices. 

Messrs. Levb & Alden are also the General Paseenger Agents 
of the 

ALLAN LINE IN THE UNITED STATES. 

CHIEF OFFICES: 

207 BROADWAY, | ^^^ ^ORK, and 

Uptown Office : 5 UNION SQUARE, 1 ' 

15 STATE STREET, BOSTON, MASS. 



NEW BOOKS OF TRAVEL. 



AMONG THE AZORES. 

By Ltman H. Weeks. 1 vol., square 16ino, with 25 illustrations, $1.50. 
" The volume is made up of a series of piquant slietches of the rich scenery and 
quaint life of the Azores, and is fully illustrated from photographs and original 
drawings." — Boston Commonwealth. 



SOUTH SEA SKETCHES. 

A Narrative. By Mrs. Madeline Vinton Dahlgeen. 1 vol., 12mo, $1.50. 
Callao, Lima, the islands and ports under the shadow of the Andes, Valparaiso, 
Santiago, and other beautiful cities of the South Seas. The New York Commercial 
Advertiser says : " The work is of extreme interest." 



JAPANESE EPISODES. 

By Edwaed H. House. 1 vol., 16mo, $1.00. 
" The dainty little volume of ' Japanese Episodes.' ... No man has had 
better opportunities of studying the character of ' the Britons of the Pacific ' than 
its author, who was for some years the publisher of a newspaper at Tokio, and is 
well known in this country as a gentleman of high literary ability. His excursions 
into the interior of the country have furnished material for some exquisite sketches 
and descriptions of scenery." — Saturday Evening Gazette. 



A PICKWICKIAN PILGRIMAGE. 

By John E. G. Hassard. 1 vol., small 16mo, $1.00. A series of chapters on the 
London which Dickens celebrated, the haunts of Mr. Pickwick, Mr. Winkle, 
the Wellers, Mrs. Gamp, and other immortals ; with excursions to Eochester and 
Dorking, and a boat voyage down the river Wye, by Eoss, Mormiouth, and 
Tintem Abbey. 

" A book to be thoroughly enjoyed." — Boston Transcript. 
" A charming little book." — New York Mail. 

" The little tome should have a place on the book-shelf next to that which records 
the wanderings of Winkle and Snodgrass." — Boston Budget. 



A TRIP TO ENGLAND. 

1 vol., 16mo, with full-page illustrations by Joseph Jefferson, $2.00. 
" Here is England in a drop of honey ; here is the poetic side of the England that 
lies in the American imagination. If you cannot go and see for yourself, here is a 
vicar who has felt truly pic mresque and romantic England, and in a few words, with 
a very few suggestive to\r<ihes. shows you the kind of pleasure that awaits you in 
English streets and in th« English landscape." — G. W. Curtis, in Harper's Maga- 
zine. 

BRETON FOLK. 

An Artistic Tour in Brittany. By Henry Blackburn. With 170 illustrations by 
Randolph Caldecott. Small quarto, $1.50. 
" The author wandered through Brittany in idle fashion, preferring the byways to 
the highways, caring more for picturesqueness of scenery, manners, customs, and 
dress than for the history, the antiquities, the*'condition, or the prospects of the 
land. As he himself describes it, his book is ' a series of sketches of a " black-and- 
white country" under its summer aspect; of a sombre land shrouded with white 
clouds, peopled with peasants in dark costumes, wide white collars and caps, black- 
and-whitp cattle, and magpies. ' " — New York Evening Post. 

For sale by booksellers. Sent, post-paid, on receipt of price, by the publishers, 

JAMES R. OSGOOD & CO., Boston. 



A WONDERFUL LITERARY SUCCESS. 
THROUGH ONE ADMINISTRATION. 

By Mrs. F. H. Burnett, i vol., i2mo. $1.50. 
A peculiirly powerful and interesting story of modern life and political in- 
trigues in Washington, full of dramatic intensity and vivid portraiture. The 
sales 0/ this romattce of ottr republican court-circles have been astonishing. 

THE LED-HORSE CLAIM. 

By Mary Hallock Foote. i vol., i_6mo, illustrated by the author. $1.25. 

" The most vigorous romance of mining life that has been written since Bret 
Harte's stories." — New York World. 

" Mrs. Foote's first novel has raised her to a level on which she is only to be 
compared with our best women novelists. To make this comparison briefly, Miss 
Woolson observes keenly, ' Miss Burnett writes charmingly, and Mrs. Foote feels 
intensely.' " — The Critic. 

THE GENTLE SAVAGE. 

By Edward King. i2mo. $2.00. 
"Permeated by a delightful combination of the romantic and realistic 
elements." — The Academy (London). 



THE SIEGE OF LONDON. 

By Henry James, Jr, Three stories in one volume. i2mo. ^1.50. 

" Full of cleverness, and jirovokes comparison with some of the best things 
of Thackeray." — New York Star. 

" I don't recall a work of fiction for the last year that seems so absolutely 
indispensable for one to read as this collection. These stories are representative 
of Mr. James in his best, his most brilliant, and most suggestive work. The 
fascination of Mr. James is as illusive as light, and as all-pervading." — St Louis 
Globe- Democrat. 

DOCTOR GRIMSHAWE'S SECRET. 

By Nathaniel Hawthorne. Edited by Julian Hawthorne, i vol., i2mo, 
380 pages. #1.50. 
" And here, out of a trunk of old papers, such as he loved to have in his 
stories, comes a romance of his own, tingling with all the old Hawthorne mystery, 
rich with all the old — we must call it old — Hawthorne imagination, grim with 
the Hawthorne uncanniness, and touched all over with the old sweetness of 
Hawthorne. ' ' — New York Herald. 



A MODERN INSTANCE. 

By W. D. HowELLS. 514 pages. ^1.50. 

'* Worthy of a place beside some of the finest of George Eliot's creations." 
— The Scotsman (Edinburgh). 

"Since Uncle Tom's Cabin there has appeared no American work of fiction 
of greater power to affect public sentiment." — Century Magazine. 



A REVEREND IDOL. 

A novel, i vol., i2mo. $1.50. 
" A capital novel, fresh, bright, and interesting. It is undeniably clever, and 
some of the best things that have lately been written about women, ministers, 
art, and various social questions may be found in its pages. Its roguery is irre- 
sistible." — Literary World. 



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Technical Books, and Books in General Literature, — Poetry, Essays, 
Biography, &c., and the latest and best Works of — 



WILLIAM D. HOWELLS, 
HENRY JAMES, Jr., 
GEORGE P. LATHROP, 
JAS. FREEMAN CLARKE, 



MARK TWAIN, 
WILLIAM WINTER, 
KATE SANBORN, 
ROBERT GRANT, 



MRS. F. H. BURNETT, 
ROSE TERRY COOKE, 
BLANCHE W. HOWARD, 
KATE FIELD. 



MEMORIAL HISTORY OF BOSTON, 

I 630- I 880. 

Justin Winsor, Editor. 
C. F. Jewett, Sniper intendent. 
Four volumes, quarto. About 2,500 
pages. Copiously illustrated with 
rm.Tps, /ac-shniles^ portraits, and views. 
Prepared by seventy writers, of ac- 
knowledged ability in their several de- 
partments, and rendered homogeneous 
by their sympathetic co-operation and 
unity of purpose. Among these are 
Holmes and Whittier, Adams and 
Winthrop, Hale and Higginson, Pal- 
frey and Putnam, Governor Long and 
Phillips Brooks, Drake and Trumbull, 
James F. Clarke and A. P. Peabody. 



SUMPTUOUS ILLUSTRATED BOOKS. 

Lucile. 160 illustrations. 

The Lady of the Lake. New in 
1882. 

Editions de Luxe, crowded with pic- 
tures by the best American artists, 
exquisitely engraved. Rich bindings 
and the finest paper. 



HELIOTYPE ENGRAVINGS, 

From Masterpieces of Art, printed on 
fine plate-paper (19x24 inches) and 
sold for 50 cents each. On exhibition 
in the Heliotype Art Gallery, 
213 Tremont Street. 
Descriptive Catalogues sent free to 
applicants. 

THE AMERICAFTrCHITECT AND 
BUILDING NEWS. 

A Weekly Illustrated Journal of Ar- 
chitecture, Construction, Decoration, 
and the Fine Arts. 
Terms : Per year, $7.50, or, if paid 
in advance, $6.00. For six months, 
$3.50. For the twelve monthly num- 
bers, $1.75. 
Catalogues sent free to all applicants. 



NEW BOOKS. 

Mark Twain's Life on the Mis- 
sissippi. 

Ware's Modern Perspective. 

Brook Farm to Cedar Mountain. 

Machiavelli's Works. 4 vols. 

Correspondence of Carlyle and 
Emerson (1834 to 1872). Edited 
by Charles Eliot Norton. 

Conway's Emerson at Home and 
Abroad. 

Poole's Index to Periodical Liter- 
ature. 

The Works of James A. Garfield. 



VALUABLE NEW BIOGRAPHIES. 

Longfellow. By F. H. Under- 
wood. 

Lowell. By F. H. Underwood. 

Emerson. By G. W. Cooke. 

Garfield. By B. A. Hinsdale. 

Dahlgren. By Mrs. M. V. Dahl- 
gren. 

Byron. By J. C. Jeaffreson. 

Lieber. By T. S. Perry. 

Hawthorne. By Julian Haw- 
thorne. (In press.) 

George Eliot. By G. W. Cooke- 
(In press.) 

FAMOUS NEW BOOKS ON TRAVEL. 

Nantucket Scraps. By Jane G. 
Austin. 

A Walk in Hellas. By Denton 
J. Snider. 

Among the Azores. By L. H. 
Weeks. 

Japanese Episodes. By E. H. 
House. 

The Trip to England. By Wil- 
liam Winter 



